I received new releases from Sara Fowler, who has been making wine at Napa’s Peju Winery. This Rutherford estate, found by Tony and Herta Peju in 1982, and a well-known spot for Napa wine tourists. They produce a wide range of wines (about 40), but I tasted six wines with wide national availability.
I also tasted some new wines from Sonoma stalwart Gundlach Bundschu (a.k.a., “Gun Bun”). An historic estate, it dates back to 1858, when Jacob Gundlach founded the Rhinefarm Vineyard. I’ve been enjoying these wines for a long time, and I think Gun Bun wines can show a lot of quality for the price.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 2018 Gundlach Bundschu Gewürztraminer Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $25 Pale lemon color. So juicy on the nose, with pineapple, lychee and lime, along with mint, orange flowers, verbena and rich honey. Plump texture, a waxy feel, yet vibrant acidity, which is great to see in a Gewurztraminer. This tastes dry (tiny hint of sugar), fresh, yet it’s so tropical and juicy. Pineapple, apricot, lychee and mango nectar, but the fruit is topped in spiced tea, honey, with chalk and minerals. Lovely stuff, a pure, lively California Gewurztraminer. 14.3% alcohol, aged in stainless steel and old oak. (90 points) 2017 Gundlach Bundschu Mountain Cuvée - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley SRP: $20 Vibrant purple color. Aromas of lush black cherries, red and black currants, juicy but fresh fruit topped in spicy pepper, tobacco and mint, cocoa and coffee. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, but medium acidity keeps it lively. Smooth, yummy but fresh fruit (blackberries, all sorts of currants), mixed well with notes of peppery spice, earth, cocoa and coffee. This has a lot of class, balance and a whole lot of deliciousness for such a reasonable price. Drink or hold for a few. Merlot with 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec, aged eight months in 15% new French oak. (89 points) 2016 Gundlach Bundschu Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $55 Deep purple color. Concentrated aromas of dark currants, blackberries, along with smoky charcoal, graphite, mint chocolate chip, tobacco, vanilla. Built well on the palate, but the tannins are nice and smooth, and moderate acidity. Black currants and blackberry, deep but crunchy fruit, laced with fallen leaves, graphite, mint, mocha and vanilla notes. Round but fresh, structured but opens nicely with just a bit of air. This is already showing lots of nuance and smoothness, but could benefit from a few years as well. Includes 8% combined of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, the wine is aged 18 months in 45% new French oak. (89 points) 2016 Gundlach Bundschu Merlot - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley SRP: $35 Medium purple color. Nose boasts juicy black cherries and deep currants, topped in roasted coffee, vanilla, mint, and a cool mix of black pepper and red pepper flakes. Full but smooth on the palate with moderate acidity, this is fun, fresh, and tangy, but shows plenty of depth, and solid complexity. Tart red and black currants and blueberries, juicy and suave, with notes of tobacco, mint and mocha. Fun now but could develop well over the next few years easily. Includes 9% Petit Verdot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 17 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)
2018 Peju Province Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley SRP: $25 Pale lemon color. On the nose, a burst of kiwi, white peach, with honeysuckle, saline, mint and oregano elements. Brisk acidity frames the wine so nicely on the palate, but there’s a lot of juicy texture, with sweet white peach, topped in kiwi and lime. Notes of white tea, saline, fresh white flowers, mountain stream minerals, adding a lot of complexity and a mouthwatering feel. Pure, vibrant and pretty Napa Sauvignon Blanc. All SB, all stainless steel. (90 points) 2013 Peju Province Winery Cabernet Franc Petit Trois - California, Napa Valley SRP: $75 Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose. Waves of red and black currants and plums, rich and saucy but vibrant fruit, topped in lots of menthol, black pepper, mushroom, cocoa and vanilla. Full-bodied and suave with velvety tannins, this is a rich and juicy wine (highly delicious), but also shows some medium acidity. The depth of the cherry and currant fruit is impressive. Ditto for the complex sage, methol, cigar shop, pepper and earth. Cocoa, coffee and cedar woven in well. This has aged nicely, but I’d be curious what this does with another 3-5 years of cellar time. 100% Cabernet Franc. (92 points) 2016 Peju Province Winery Merlot - California, Napa Valley SRP: $48 Light purple color. Nose of sweet red currants, fig past, blueberry jam, along with violets, clove, sweet eucalyptus and vanilla. Plush texture on the palate, soft tannins, with medium-low acidity. Accessible and fruit-forward, with sweet black cherry, roasted plums and figs. Lots of coffee, vanilla, sweet cocoa and sweet pipe tobacco. A juicy, jammy, velvety style to drink in the near term. Includes 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Sirah, aged 18 months. (87 points) 2017 Peju Province Winery Cabernet Sauvignon The Experiment - California, Napa Valley SRP: $100 Saucy purple color. Nose shows sweet blueberries, black cherries, with earth, roasted chestnut, leather, clove and mint chocolate chip. Velvety, jammy presence on the palate with a chewy, medium-low acidity kind of feel. Saucy blueberries and black cherries, topped in earth, violets and graphite. There are a lot of intense oak signatures in here (espresso, cocoa, dark chocolate, sweet vanilla), so be aware of that going into this wine. Perhaps time in the cellar will help it integrate. That said, the underlying fruit is yummy and there are other solid elements as well. All Cabernet aged 16 months in all new French, American and Hungarian oak. (87 points) 2015 Peju Province Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley SRP: $60 Light purple color. Deep nose of black currants, sweet blueberry, with roasted chestnut, cocoa powder, mint and scorched earth notes. On the palate, this is a big wine, but it holds itself well, with round tannins and fresh acidity. Tangy black cherries, juicy currants, roasted fig, the fruit is complemented by eucalyptus, leather, earth, cocoa, subtle vanilla. Expressive and integrated already, but this should do well with three or four years. Includes 8% Petit Verdot and 7% Merlot, aged 18 months in 45% new French and American oak. (90 points) 2015 Peju Province Winery The Farm - California, Napa Valley SRP: $80 Medium purple color. Aromas of juicy red and black cherries, with violets, rose petals, some savory spice, leather, dark chocolate. Full-bodied, velvety, suave and vibrant on the palate, this is expressive and vibrant with juicy black cherries and dark currants. Complex elements of violets, pipe tobacco, scorched earth, and notes of cocoa, vanilla and clove. This could benefit from three or four years in the cellar, but a very pretty blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese. (91 points)
Where I live, in the U.S. Mid-Atlantic, it’s finally starting to feel like autumn, my favorite season. After a hot, humid summer, I’m excited for autumnal weather, food, and wines.
The fall samples have been rolling in these past few weeks, and I’ve curated a selection of wines that would pair well with warm harvest meals, cool nights, and all that watching leaves change kinda stuff.
There’s a nice Mosel Riesling in this report, which I always enjoy around this time of year. Oregon offers up two delicious wines: a Vermentino from biodynamic Applegate Valley producer Troon, who seems to continually ace this variety; and a Brut Rosé from Gran Moraine, whose Pinots and Chardonnays I’ve enjoyed many times.
Chianti Ruffina’s Fattoria Selvapiana (which has been in the same family’s hands since the 1880s) delivers some serious value Sangiovese in this report. These wines show wide appeal, and I could see them fitting well on any big family table. And a zesty, savory Schiava from the Dolomites deserves attention for its food- and budget-friendly vibes.
Lastly, Gonzalez Byass, the large Sherry house, comes through with a few wines that should warm you up as winter approaches.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Germany 2018 Weingut Nik Weis/St. Urbans-Hof Bockstein Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer SRP: $26 Rich gold color. Big and tropical on the nose with apricot, white peach and lime, topped in fresh white and yellow flowers, mint, new tennis balls, and crushed rock notes. Medium-bodied, moderate sweetness balances off tingling acidity for a well-balanced Riesling. Peaches and papaya, drizzled in lime, topped in yellow flowers and honeycomb. There’s a lively streak of mountain stream and mineral that underlines the wine. Delicious, quite complex, this should age nicely over the next five years. (88 points)
Italy 2018 Alois Lageder Vernatsch-Schiava - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti SRP: $16 Pale ruby color. Bright, spicy and floral nose, showing rose petals, tobacco, rhubarb and paprika on top of red cherries and pomegranate. Crisp and bright and light on the palate, but not lacking in flavor or complexity at all. Dusty tannins back up tangy cherry and pomegranate fruit, and I get complex notes of spiced cranberry sauce, rose petals, rhubarb, with earthy, soy notes. Underling mineral and chalk elements. If you’re in the mood for something lighter, floral and spicy from Alto Adige and don’t like spending money, this is a serious contender. 11% alcohol, aged six months in concrete. Made from the Schiava (or Vernatsch) grape. (89 points) 2016 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina- Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina SRP: $19 Deep ruby color. Spicy nose, with lots of tobacco, eucalyptus, mint, pepper and leather on top of tangy currants, dark plums, with some cocoa, too. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Crunch red cherries and plums mix with flavors of smoky tobacco, grilled herbs, violets and scorched earth. This is fresh, lively and accessible but also quite complex, and offers a lot in this price range. Drink in the near term. 95% Sangiovese with a combined 5% Canaiolo, colorino and Malvasia Nera. (88 points) 2014 Fattoria Selvapiana Pomino Villa Petrognano - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino SRP: $21 Deep ruby color. Juicy aromas of red cherries and currants mix with violets, graphite, wild herbs, tomato leaf and tobacco. Nice grip, this is full-bodied but not too heavy, and shows surprisingly vibrant acidity. Lots of smoky, charcoal, graphite and mineral tones underline the beautiful red and black fruit. Violets, clove, earth, wild herbs and cocoa powder and cedar, this has a lot going on. Needs a few years of cellar time or good decant if you’re drinking it soon, but this has a lot to show for its price point. 60% Sangiovese with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, aged 29 months in French oak. (90 points) 2015 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina SRP: $36 Medium ruby color. Nose shows vibrant cherries and raspberries, along with rose petals, mint, spicy oregano and paprika elements. Full-bodied, solid tannic grip, but moderating acidity. Currants and black cherries (the fruit is rich and round but shows nuance). I get black olive, clove, mint, tobacco and charcoal accents, along with some coffee and wood notes woven in well. Lovely, concentrated yet vibrant, this needs at least a few years in the cellar. 100% Sangiovese aged 32 months in French oak. (90 points)
Spain
N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Tio Pepe Fino 'En Rama' 2019- Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry SRP: $20 Lemon peel color. Classic aromas of sea salt, green olive, ocean spray, on top of lemon peel, apricot, shaved ginger, hay and honeycomb. The palate is full but so crisp and zesty, with deep texture and vibrant acidity. Lemon and orange peel mix with complex nuances of sea salt, oyster brine, crushed shells and chalk, ginger, green olive, spiced tea. Lovely depth and complexity, this begs for all sorts of delicious foods but I was craving grilled oysters specifically while tasting this. Great value. (90 points) N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Amontillado Viña AB - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry SRP: $25 Deep gold color. Aromas of sea salt, almond, hay and ginger, on top of candied orange peel, apricot marmalade, lemon zesty. Crisp acidity, round, deep texture, waxy yet lively feel. The wine integrated and balanced very well. Orange peel, apricot, mixed with ginger, almond, hay, candlewax, white tea. Lush, harmonious, a solid Amontillado that offers a lot for the price. 16.5% alcohol, <4 grams of residual sugar, aged 12 years in oak casks. (90 points) N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Pedro Ximénez Sherry Noé 30 Years - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry SRP: $50/375ml Deep brown color. Nose of sweet dates, roasted figs, caramel, lush and rich with cocoa, violets, clove and marmalade notes. Full-bodied, plush, sweet and unctuous with medium acidity. Plum cake, roasted figs, sweet dates, glazed, goopy fruit, mixed with flavors of bitter chocolate, clove, cedar and roasted chestnuts. Rich, deep, delicious stuff, the acidity really helps keep this densely sweet wine vibrant. 100% Pedro Ximenez, aged 30 years in solera. (91 points)
United States
2018 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley SRP: $25 Light yellow color. Aromatically, this is pretty as all heck, with lots of white and yellow flowers, white tea, sea salt, raw almond, on top of lemon and apricot. Wide breadth of texture, so pretty, with a waxy, creamy, yet zippy feel. Pure and deep but vibrant with crisp acidity, and delicious lemon, apricot and peach fruit. Notes of mint, herbal tea, crushed chalk, white flowers, minerals and quinine add all sorts of complexity. Troon has been killing it with Vermentino for a while now, and this is another example of their mastery of the grape. Not to mention the crazy value here. Fermented and aged in old French oak, with maloactic fermentation. (92 points) N.V. Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Brut Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton SRP: $55 Pale copper color. Complex but airy on the nose, with white cherry, strawberry, grapefruit, topped in wildflowers, hay, honey, with salty, oyster shell notes. Nervy and crisp on the palate with fine bubbles – dry, brisk, salty, bright appeal. Strawberry, white cherry and red apple peel, mixed with chalk, saline but plenty of doughy, honey, almond notes, too. Delicious, complex, bright stuff. Chardonnay with 43% Pinot Noir, fermented in a mix of old French oak and stainless steel, aged 24 months on the lees. (92 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
It’s finally fall, and the samples from California have been rolling in. This week, I’m focusing on some newly-releases Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and Syrahs.
I’ve really enjoyed FEL’s take on classic Mendocino Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and their 2017s from the Savoy Vineyard are really something. They ride a clean line between being really pretty and expressive, but also and age-worthy as well.
Gary Farrell is well-known for producing Sonoma Pinot and Chard, and they offer a wide portfolio of wines. They offer solid value options but also more complex, single-vineyard wines, which, given their quality, are very reasonably priced.
Ramey and Sosie really deliver with some Sonoma Syrahs that would rock with some time in the cellar.
And a few other fun, value-driven wines round out this week’s report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Cuvée 20 - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $38/750ml Pale gold color. Nice mix of biscuits and pie crust aromas, along with tangerine, pears and some salty, sea breeze notes. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, balancing the slight sugar. Pie crust, toasted bread and chalky, perfumed notes accent the tart apples and juicy orange fruit. Crowd-pleasing, pleasant, friendly stuff. 50% Chardonnay, 49% Pinot Noir, 1% Pinot Meunier, 12.5% alcohol, 1.4% residual sugar. Tasted from magnum. (88 points) 2018 Harken Chardonnay Barrel-Fermented - California SRP: $15 Deep gold color. Juicy yellow apples, glazed pear and honey butter on the nose, with some floral and toasted nuts. Medium+ bodied, a plush and creamy texture, but moderate acidity keeps it lively. Flavors of orange marmalade, yellow apples and pears, topped in notes of cinnamon, nougat, honey, floral perfume. This sports a lot of fun and flavor, and it also has quite a bit of personality for a California Chardonnay at this price point. All barrel-fermented in American and French oak, 100% maloactic fermentation. (86 points) 2017 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $35 Deep yellow color. Juicy and tropical aromas, peaches, pineapple, honey, almond butter and yellow flowers. Medium+ bodied with a juicy, creamy texture but vibrant acidity. Yellow apples, pineapple and mango slices, mixed with nuanced notes of honey, salted nuts, minerals and ginger. Delicious and yummy, but it shows a lot of balance and nuance for a Russian River Chardonnay at this price point. Aged nine months in 35% new French oak, 13.7% alcohol. (88 points) 2016 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $45 Light gold year. Enticing aromas of pears, peach, yellow apples, with complex sea salt, peanut shell, hay and honeycomb. Crisp acidity frames the wine well on the palate, and there’s a pleasantly plump and juicy texture. Medium+ bodied and vibrant with creamy pear, lemon meringue and yellow apple. Notes of minerals, chalk, sea salt, and nuanced elements of almond and vanilla. Complex and harmonious, this opens up nicely and could benefit from a bit of age as well. Aged nine months in 35% new French oak, 13.4% alcohol. (91 points) 2017 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley SRP: $48 Rich yellow color. The aromas boast salted almond, hazelnut, ginger and whipped honey on top of lemon curd and orange marmalade. So pretty and vibrant on the palate, the acidity leaves me salivating but there’s plenty of depth and fruit as well (lemon curd, apricot, kiwi, yellow apple). I get complex notes of whipped honey, graham cracker and peanut brittle, but also more delicate notes of crushed shells, sea salt and shaved ginger. Lovely, complex, full of flavor but really nervy and fresh with a mineral-driven finish. Very pretty stuff that should do well with a few years in the cellar. Barrel-fermented in 55% new French oak, aged 18 months. (92 points) 2017 Cherry Pie (Hundred Acre) Pinot Noir - California SRP: $23 Medium ruby color. Sweet nose of cherry pie filling — and that’s not my reaction based on the name, it legit smells like cherry pie — along with raspberry jam, rhubarb and vanilla. Juicy and fun on the palate, this has a playful, smooth, easy-drinking appeal with medium/low acidity and light tannins. Not as candied and gloppy as I was expecting, this shows plump, sweet red fruits mixed with some spiced cranberry sauce, pepper, clove. Light-hearted fun. A blend of fruit from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Napa counties. (85 points)
2017 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley SRP: $70 Deep ruby color. A rush of fresh red fruits on the nose (strawberries, cherries, cranberry and pomegranate), along with mint, menthol, tobacco, rose petal and white pepper notes – beautiful aromas. Juicy and full on the palate but vibrant, bright acidity frames the wine well against a backdrop of structured, round-edged tannins. Black cherry, raspberry, spiced cranberry sauce, the fruit mixes with lots of earthy, minty, leafy, floral complexities. Complex and could age well for at least three to five years, but it remains fresh and so fun to drink. A ripping good Anderson Valley Pinot. (93 pints) 2016 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $55 Deep ruby color. Inviting nose of violets, rhubarb and roses on top of strawberries, raspberries and cola. On the palate, crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, this has a fresh and lively style with dusty tannins. Juicy strawberries, raspberries, spiced cranberry relish, and I get complex notes of clove, rhubarb, pepper and mint. Notes of earth and nuanced cedar and coffee round out the finish. Fresh, lively, but juicy and complex, this is lovely now but has the stuffing to improve for at least a few years. Aged 15 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points) 2015 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $65 Light purple. Aromas of tangy strawberries, juicy raspberries, and a spiced cranberry sauce note, along with black pepper, leather, cocoa and mint – gorgeous aromas. Velvety but structured tannins, and vibrant acidity, this Syrah has a tangy, juicy, balanced feel. A nice mix of crunchy red and saucier black fruit, all fresh and lively. Complex notes of violets, leather, pepper, nuanced notes of coffee and vanilla bean. I’d love to see what this does in five years. Native yeast fermentation, this exquisite Syrah was co-fermented with 8% Viognier, aged 25 months in 93% new French oak. (93 points) 2016 Sosie Syrah Vivio Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley SRP: $38 Deep purple color. Smoky nose with beefy, meaty, leathery, mesquite notes on top of saucy black cherries and blueberries. Full but fresh on the palate with solid tannic grip, but rounded edges and vibrant, moderating acidity. Tangy black cherries and plums balances well with a lot of interesting flavors: mesquite, menthol, brisket, leather, violets, incense. Complex but straight-up delicious, too. This evolves nicely with air but would benefit rom a few years. When sniffing and sipping, this is one of those Syrahs I can just tell comes from a special place. Co-fermented with 7% Roussanne, aged 20 months in 50% new oak. (92 points) This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Honestly, spirits aren’t really my wheelhouse. I’m a simple, wine-loving dude who rarely consumes spirits or cocktails. But, if I’m going to put some 40% ABV liquid into my gut, it’s likely going to be an Islay Scotch or a good Cognac. So, I’m taking a break from wine this week to focus on this historic spirit.
Cognac seems well-known to wine-loving crowds. North of Bordeaux, in the chalky soils near the Charente River, thousands of growers farm Ugni Blanc grapes to make Cocnac. Spreading out from the village of Cognac, there are six different crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. “Fine Champagne” refers to a blend composed of at least 50% Grande Champagne, with some Petite Champagne.
Most Cognac is made from the Ugni Blanc grape (known as Trebbiano in Italy), but Folle Blanche (which dominated the pre-phylloxera period) and Colombard are also found. The grapes are usually harvested in September, and then they undergo some fermentation, resulting in a high-acid white wine with about 9% alcohol. Then, Cognac producers begin a double distillation process in unique Charentais copper pot stills.
This spirit (eau de vie) is then aged for at least two years before it can be called Cognac. Aging is always done in oak casks, and many producers have their own cooperage system. The period of aging is indicated by a series of letters on the label. V.S. indicates with the youngest spirit in the is at least two years old. V.S.O.P. requires at least four years of aging. And, as of 2018, X.O. now means the youngest spirit in the bend is at least 10 years old.
Over the summer, I dove into some different Cognacs for review, and my notes are below.
These spirits were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind. N.V. Frapin Cognac Grande Champagne V.S. — France, Cognac, Grande Champagne Cognac SRP: $55 This has an airy, floral quality, with pear and orange blossom, some orange peel, but also caramel, honeyed tea and ginger snaps. Vibrant on the palate, smooth texture, a mix of baked pears and apples with cinnamon, floral potpourri, with honeycomb and spiced tea. Fresh, lighter style, but solid complexity for a VS. This estate has existed since 1270, and sources grapes from more than 1,200 acres of vineyards in Grande Champagne. (90 points) N.V. Bache-Gabrielsen Cognac 3 Kors V.S. — France, Cognac SRP: $32 A lively nose of apricot, yellow raisin, honey and white flowers. Smooth and fresh with apricots and apples, in has a lively, floral quality to it, blossoms, pineapple, dried ginger, and warm, honeyed tea. Smooth, fruity, floral and fresh. This estate was founded by a Norwegian Lieutenant in 1905, and the spirit is sourced from grapes in Fins Bois, Petite Champagne and Grande Champagne. (88 points) N.V. Merlet Cognac V.S.O.P. — France, Cognac SRP: $50 Nose is warm and inviting with quince paste, orange peel, honey, clover, ginger and graham notes. Plush texture, vibrant, with layers of fruit and nut flavors (candied orange peel, fig paste, dried apricot), and clove, honey and sweet caramel add complexity. Nicely balanced, no harsh edges at all, lots of warm, inviting but spicy elements. From vineyards in the crus of Borderies and Fins Bois. (90 points) N.V. A.E. Dor Cognac Rare Fine Champagne V.S.O.P. — France, Cognac, Fine Champagne Cognac SRP: $60 Aromas of warm caramel, yellow raisins, candied orange peel, with ginger, graham cracker and subtle smoky traces. Smooth and velvety on the palate, well-rounded and balanced. Flavors of yellow raisins, plum cake and candied orange peel mix well with vanilla, clove, coffee and smoky elements. Complex, elegant, smooth, lovely stuff. Sourced from Grande Champagne and Petit Champagne. (92 points) N.V. Prunier Grande Fine Champagne Cognac Family Reserve X.O. — France, Cognac, Grande Fine Champagne Cognac SRP: $70 Inviting nose of honey, sweet marmalade, along with ginger, clove and sweet coconut. Lush palate with a smooth texture, and flavors of sweet apricot, yellow plums, orange marmalade, honeycomb, along with waxy, clove and caramel tones. The mouthfeel is lovely and the balance is pristine. A blend of 15- to 35-year-old Cognacs from Grande Champagne. (92 points)
