This week, I’m focusing on some white and red wines from Italy.
Over the past few weeks, I’ve received a few wines from Veneto, Sicily and Piedmont. Sicilian whites really hit the spot for me pretty frequently, with their bright, tropical aesthetic. While some of the Veneto reds pair well with wintertime and rich, hearty dishes.
Most of these wines cost around $20, so there are some serious bargains in this report.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Light yellow color. Aromas of peaches and papayas, topped in floral perfume, chalk, wild herbs and white tea. Bright acidity, but deep texture, lovely balance. Vibrant lemon, lime and peach fruit mixed with white tea, sliced cucumber, and lots of floral perfume. Another solid vintage of this reliably good and worthwhile wine. Garganega and 15% Trebbiano from estate hillside vineyards. (89 points)
2018 Azienda Agricola F. Tornatore Sicilia Etna Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia SRP: $20 Deep yellow color. Bursting nose of peaches, lemon and apricot, along with tons of white and yellow flowers, some sea salt, white pepper. Fleshy and plump with lemon curd and pineapple fruit. It has a lively, salty, limestoney feel, too, which is really attractive. Lots of yellow flowers, some wild herbs. Balanced really well, this is such a seafood and salad-friendly wine that brings solid complexity for the price. This is made from 100% Carricante grown on the northern slopes of Mt. Etna (1,800 to 2,300 feet). 12.5% alcohol. (89 points)
2018 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Whitaker Grillo Mozia - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia IGT SRP: $22 Medium yellow color. The nose bursts with pineapple, green apples, key lime pie, with sea salt, honeycomb and lots of white and yellow flowers. Pleasant texture, medium-bodied, yet bright acidity. Lots of tropical goodness (cantaloupe, pineapple, limes) along with honeysuckle, daisies and sea salt. Juicy and tropical but fresh, too. Not “simple,” but simply pleasant; such a seafood bistro kinda wine. (88 points)
2018 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Didyme - Italy, Sicily, Salina IGT SRP: $22 Medium yellow. The aromas pop with kiwi, papaya, lychee, with white flowers, wild herbs, notes of pickling spices. Medium-bodied, has a pleasantly plump texture but the bright acidity makes it vibrant. Juicy and tropical with pineapple, lychee and papaya fruit. Complex notes of wildflowers and spices (honeysuckle, dandelion, white pepper). There’s a salty, chalky, mineral combo on the finish that is very nice. Impressive stuff. All Malvasia di Lipari, no maloactic fermentation, all stainless steel. (89 points)
Reds
2018 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Valpolicella Nanfré - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella SRP: $15 Light ruby color. Peppery, spicy nose with clove, bay leaf and rose hips, accenting the tangy red currant and wild cherry fruit. Fresh and accessible on the palate with light tannins on a medium-bodied frame. Cranberry sauce, red currant compote, the fruit meets with rose petals, clove, some bouillon cubes, chewing tobacco. This is really pleasant, well-integrated, easy-drinking but well-done. Great bistro, pizza wine, that sports a lot of value. 70% Corvina, 30% Rondinella, aged four to six months in stainless steel, 12.5% alcohol. (88 points)
2017 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore Monti Garbi - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore SRP: $22 Deep ruby color. Nose has a deep core of black currants and roasted digs, with some warm clay, smoky earth, clove notes. Suave and rich on the palate, moderate tannins, medium acidity helps keep it lively. Tart black currants and roasted fig fruit mixes well with leathery, smoky, earthy, coffee tones. Warm and inviting stuff, but this could use a year or two to express itself more. 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, and a combined 10% Croatina and Oseleta, aged 12 months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)
The nose shows a solid core of blackberry, currant compote, roasted digs, along with campfire smoke, dark chocolate shavings, anise cookies. Full-bodied but suave on the palate, with structured tannins, moderating acidity that keeps it away from being too heavy. The currant and fig compote mixes with lots of anise, coffee, scorched earth, violet petals, clove, sweet toffee and vanilla. This should age nicely over the next decade. 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina, 5% Oseleta, aged two years in French oak. (90 points)
2015 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT SRP: $20 Bright purple color. The nose shows smoky earth, anise, cocoa, on top of roasted figs and plum sauce. Medium+ bodied, smooth and velvety tannins, and refreshing acidity. Flavors of tangy currants, black cherries, refreshing fruit but plenty of it. Laced with violets, cigar box, anise, black pepper and cocoa. Another solid vintage of this perennial bargain. A blend of Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Sangiovese, aged 15 months in old oak. (89 points)
2017 Renato Ratti Langhe Nebbiolo Ochetti - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe SRP: $25 Deep ruby color. Nose shows deep cherries and plums with a pleasantly smoky, earthy element, along with mushroom and rose petals. Nice grip on the palate, fresh acid, the balance is on point, and lots of black cherry and tart red currant fruit. Lots of rose petals, herbal tea, along with beefy, saucy, mushroom notes. Fun fruit, spicy and floral complexities. This opens up a lot with air, and could use some time. What a whole lotta Nebbiolo goodness for 25 bucks. From vineyards in Monteu Roero, aged 10 months in old Slavonian oak. (90 points)
It’s been a while since I’ve focused exclusively on California Chardonnay, so I’m excited to delve back in.
The breadth of different styles is what always keeps me coming back to Cali Chards. No matter how California Chardonnay is generalized as a category, there are so many wines that do their own thing, buck the trend.
I don’t curate the wines I receive, so while my personal favorites aren’t featured here, I think this is a solid group.
Ramey comes in with four different single-vineyard wines, each of which stood out. It’s interesting, as all four of these wines are treated the same in the cellar: native yeast fermentation, full maloactic fermentation in barrel, with battonage, aged about 20 months in 20% new French oak. They’re all 14.5% alcohol, too. They all rock a similar tune while showing nuanced harmonies of their vineyard site. Smith-Madrone comes through with a killer Spring Mountain Chard, again. And some less expensive wines like The Paring show that there’s still value to be found in Cali Chard.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind. 2016 Talbott Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands SRP: $42 Aromas of ripe pears and yellow apples, topped in cinnamon, nougat, salted peanuts. Ripe and juicy on the palate but lively acidity. Creamy apples and pears, lemon curd, juicy fruit but well balanced, too. Nougaty, honeyed tea, cream, but also some floral perfume and chalk dust. Fun stuff, but showing some complexity, too. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak, 14.1% alcohol. (89 points) 2017 The Paring Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County SRP: $25 The nose shows green apples, white peach, limes, with chalky notes, peanut shell, white flowers. Medium-bodied, plush texture, crisp acidity, it’s framed well with nuanced, tangy fruit (green and yellow apples, apricot). Notes of sea salt, chalk dust, minerals, they blend well with these honey, ginger and chestnut elements. Delicious, vibrant style but significant complexity. Aged 1/3 in used French oak, 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 stainless steel,1/3 malolactic fermentation. (90 points)
2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District SRP: $40 Nuanced aromas of honey, warm tea, almond, with sea salt, crushed chalk, yellow apples and pears. Full but integrated so well, with deep texture, but this racy acidity that keeps it bright and lofty. Glazed apples, candied orange peel, lemon, the fruit mixes well with these salty, chalky, rocky, mineral elements. Lovely stuff that should age wonderfully. From their dry-farmed vineyard, barrel-fermented, aged nine months in 80% new French oak. 14.4% alcohol. (93 points) 2018 Clos Pegase Chardonnay Mitsuko's Vineyard - California, Napa Valley, Carneros SRP: $30 Nose of apricot and orange marmalade, whipped honey, graham cracker, yellow flowers. Lush texture, full and smooth, but moderate acidity keeps it lively. Hedonistic fruit (glazed pear, orange marmalade, pineapple), with honey, almond cake, vanilla. But there’s also brighter elements of honeysuckle, river rocks and green tea. Lovely depth, very delicious. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak, 14.6% alcohol. (90 points) 2018 Pfendler Vineyards Chardonnay - SRP: $45 Bold nose of ginger, spiced tea, honey, candle wax, nutmeg, oCalifornia, Sonoma Coast, Petaluma Gapn top of lemon cake and yellow apple. Juicy and ripe on the palate with plump apricot, bruised yellow apple, and lots of ginger, cinnamon crumb cake. Rich style, but there’s a nice streak of acid and some lime and mineral tones. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. (88 points) 2018 Cline Cellars Chardonnay Estate - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $13 On the nose, I get a nice mix of toasted nuts, honey, with candied lemon, orange peel. Medium/full-bodied, smooth texture, lively acidity. A bright lemon/orange peel element, with apricot, marmalade and peach. The fruit mixes with toasted nuts, honeycomb. There’s also this floral, perfumed, minty quality, with vanilla and ginger snap notes. I was surprised to see the price point here, because it offers a lot for the money. 60% maloactic fermentation, aged four months in French oak. (87 points) 2016 Ramey Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $65 Creamy, inviting nose of buttered pears, yellow apples, with lots of honey, ginger, peanut shell, nougat, some floral perfume. Full and suave with plump texture but vibrant, lip-smacking acidity, and the balance is superb. Apples, pears, orange marmalade, with lots of complex elements of biscuits, peanut brittle. There are also these really lively mountain stream and mineral elements. Delicious, fascinating stuff, a standout in the tasting. A stunner that I’d love to age for five years. Aged 20 months in 21% new French oak. (94 points) 2016 Ramey Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $65 The nose shows a bright burst of lime, lemon curd, apricot, along with sea spray, and subtle nutty, waxy, honeyed elements. Crisp acid frames the wine nicely against the plush texture, deep but stays so lively. Green apples, lemon curd, apricot, lush but vibrant, with sea salt, crushed chalk and oyster shell notes that are really delicious. The nutty, almond, ginger snap elements blend in smoothly. I’d love to see this in three to five years. Old Wente clone Chardonnay, aged 19 months in 20% new French oak. (93 points) 2016 Ramey Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard - California, Napa, Carneros SRP: $65 An aromatic burst of yellow apples and pears, with honey, candle wax, candied ginger, white flowers, lots going on. Plump texture, creamy and lush, but the acidity keeps this bright, too. Lemon curd, key lime pie and yellow pear fruit, topped in sea salt, minerals, a crisp streak of those elements, but also buttered biscuits with honey and almond, too. Gorgeous stuff, tons of depth, but also so precise. Aged 20 months in 22% new French oak. (94 points) 2016 Ramey Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $65 The nose shows lots of apricot, yellow apples and lime, with honeycomb, ginger snap cookies, coffee cake, but also these breezy, airy, floral elements as well. Lush texture on the palate but precise acidity, intriguing balance. Lemon and lime meringue, apricot and green apple (gorgeous fruit). The notes of peanut brittle and ginger snap mix well with the sea salt, chalk and yellow flower tones. Complex, harmonious, this could really age well, too. Aged 20 months in 18% new French oak. (93 points)
The holiday season is in full swing — the lights, the commercials and jingles, shopping, all that stuff. And, right on cue, I’ve been receiving a lot of bubbles for review.
Of course, good bubbles (especially Champagne) are good year-round, but popping the cork on a bottle of fizzy wine during the holidays, with family and friends, it really never gets old.
To help with the holiday sparkling wine shopping, I have a nice mix of sparkling wines this week. I recently tasted through some delightful Champagne, to some surprisingly good Proseccos, and some value-driven Cavas. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.
N.V. Palmer & Co Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne SRP: $60 Rich yellow color. Bold nose of yellow pears, lemon curd, honey, ginger, but also a nice mix of crushed chalk and shells. Bright acidity meets nice creamy texture on the palate, a broad fruit assortment (apple, apricot, lemon). Nice amount of complexity in the form of sea spray, chalk dust, minerals. Biscuit and honey notes woven in well. Gains depth and complexity with air. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and about 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (90 points)
N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée - France, Champagne SRP: $60 Medium copper color. Chalky, biscuit, sea salty nose with lemon, red apple and apricot fruit, a slight, pleasant musky note. Nervy and brisk on the palate but broad texture, with crunchy red apple, juicy raspberry and strawberry, and nuanced notes of spiced tea, chalk. Brisk but toasty, zesty but plenty of fruit – seems like a holiday crowd-pleaser of a rose Champagne for sure. Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay, the blend includes reserve wine dating back to 1985, aged 3 years sur lie. 6 g/l dosage, disgorged July 2018. (91 points)
SRP: $100 Deep gold color. Super bright on the nose, with a chalky, dusty, mineral, saline infusion, along with sea spray, white flowers, lemon curd and tart apricot. On the palate, this is nervy and precise with a lot of focus. It is has a knife’s edge briskness throughout, yet enough depth and creamy texture for balance, and nuanced bready doughy notes. Apricot, lemon curd and lime, topped in minerals, crushed shells, quinine and white flower tones. This is a brand new cuvee from L-P (their first in 30 years), and they’ve managed to pull off a really good Brut Nature, here. Chardonnay sourced from the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Cramant, Oiry, Chouilly) and Montagne de Reims (Tours-sur-Marne, Villers-Marmery, Rilly La Montagne), aged about six years before disgorgement. (92 points)
N.V. Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Prosecco Val D'Oca - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco SRP: $13 Pal lemon color. Aromas of white peaches, topped in wildflowers, white tea, nettle and sweet tarts. Crisp on the palate, juicy but tart, with white peaches, lemon and kiwi fruit. Notes of wildflowers and herbs. Food-friendly, simple in a good way, a crisper, dryer style that works well. (87 points) 2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Punto Rosa- Italy, Veneto, Marca Trevigiana IGT SRP: $13 Pale copper color. Aromas of red apple, cranberry, with some nettle and musky tones. Crisp and light on the palate with bright acidity on a light frame. Punchy red apples, watermelon, strawberries, topped in some chalk and flowers. Pleasant, crowd-pleasing stuff, made from Pinot Nero and Pinot Grigio. (87 points)
Pale lemon color. Steely and bright on the nose, with a burst of lemon/lime, kiwi, and an exciting streak of minerals, chalk and dried flowers and herbs. Lovely creamy depth on the palate, but bright acidity keeps it lively and crisp, delightful balance. Ginger, honey, crushed chalk, white flowers, all of this on top of kiwi, lemon and green apple. This is a really impressive Prosecco that surprised me. (90 points)
N.V. Vilarnau Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava SRP: $15 Medium yellow color. Aromas pop with lemon, lime, honey, some toasted nuts and baguette. Creamy texture on the palate, refreshing acidity, along with lemon crème, yellow apples. Notes of almond, sea salt, freshly baked biscuits. Fun stuff, this delivers a lot for a low price. 50% Macabeo, 35% Parallada, 15% Xarel-lo, 10 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)
N.V. Vilarnau Cava Rosé Delicat Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava SRP: $16 Deep copper color. Nose of bright strawberries, cranberry, red apple, along with rose petals, some bread dough and peanut notes. On the palate, fresh acid pervades, but there’s good breadth of texture, and a nice mix of juicy strawberry fruit with crunchy red apples. Elements of sea salt, toasted nuts, baguette, and a spice floral tea note add complexity. This has a lot to show for the price. 85% Garnacha, 15% Pinot Noir, 8 g/l residual sugar. (88 points)
To all the American readers, hopefully you’ve been enjoying Thanksgiving with family, friends, delicious food and wines over the holiday weekend!
After focusing a lot on California wines recently, I’ve tasted through a bunch of samples from Italy, Portugal and Spain, and found some good recommendations to share.
Fattoria La Valentina does a good job with inexpensive wines from the Abruzzi region, while two wines from Alto Adige bring that crisp, zesty, Alpine-style goodness.
From France, Ferraton doles out two solid offerings from the Rhone Valley.
Port house Symington Family Estates has ventured further south into Alentejo’s Portalegre region to source grapes for a new project called Quinta da Fonte Souto. I love this region, so I was stoked to taste the inaugural 2017 vintage of their red and white. They’re both good, but the white is really something else.
And from Spain, we have two value-driven Riojas from Bodegas Beronia, and a beefy Garnacha that would pair well with cold, snowy nights.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Italy
2018 Fattoria La Valentina Pecorino - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT SRP: $17 Light yellow color. The nose is bright and fresh, with guava, lime and melon, topped in yellow flowers, nettle and sea salt. Clean and pretty on the palate, with a steely, mountain stream, chalky aesthetic. Lemons, guava and apricot mix well with perfume, chalk, minerals and white tea. Racy but deep, and showing a lot of complexity for this price point. (89 points)
2016 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo SRP: $15 Deep ruby color. Nose shows red cherries and currants, lots of smoky, beefy, leathery tones, some violets. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, moderate acidity. Flavors of red and black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce play off of smoky earth and leather tones. Fun stuff, showing quite a bit of depth for the price, this is a seriously good pizza bistro style of wine. Mostly stainless still and some old Slavonian oak. (87 points)
2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Spelt - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo SRP: $22 Medium purple color. Deep core of red currants and black cherries on the nose, with spicy pepper, bay leaf, leather, pretty violets and clove. Velvety but some grip on the palate, moderating acidity, seems young but opens up well with air. Crunchy cherries and currants with a complex herbal, spicy, floral mix (violets, clay, clove, rocky earth). Shows significant complexity for the price, this could improve with a few years as well. (90 points)
Medium yellow color. Bright and punchy nose with lemon, green apple, kiwi, along with honeysuckle, sliced cucumber. Lovely depth of texture on the palate, with crisp, nervy acidity. Lemon, lime, crunchy green apples, the fruit is accented with elements of honeysuckle, hay, mountain stream, chalky mineral tones. The herbal elements are subtle and blended in well. Lots of depth and flavor for the price. From calcareous soils, fermented in a mix of stainless steel and old oak, with six months of lees aging. (88 points)
2017 Franz Haas Pinot Nero - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol SRP: $35 Light ruby color. Aromas of tangy cherries and raspberries, along with black pepper, rose petals, some clove and herbal tea notes. On the palate, this is zippy and tangy with light tannins and juicy fruit (raspberries, strawberries. Peppery, herbal, floral tones underneath. Fun, vibrant, food-friendly Pinot Nero, with an enjoyably bright and spicy personality. Fermented in stainless steel and aged one year in barrel. (87 points)
France
2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage La Matinière - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage SRP: $26 Medium purple color. Ripe and bright on the nose, black cherries, plums, with smoky, leather, peppery, anise notes. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, fresh acid, this wine is open and bright, but shows a solid core of black cherry fruit. Peppery, leather, spice rub elements add complexity. An early-drinking style, but it doesn’t lack for complexity. (88 points)
2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône SRP: $16 Deep ruby color. Smells like cherries, raspberries, with sweet roses, pepper, oregano and cola notes. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins, chewy texture, moderate acidity. Jammy raspberries and cherries mix well with dried rose petals, black pepper, clove, leather, sweet cola. Fun, accessible and food-friendly, but still showing complexity for thee price. Grenache with 10% Syrah, 5% Cinsault. (87 points)
Rich yellow color. Lovely nose of honeyed apricot, lemon curd, orange marmalade, but also bright, floral and salty. Plump and lush on the palate, but the nervy, crisp acidity is great, balanced very well. Lemon curd, apricot, yellow apples, with flavors of graham cracker, honeyed white tea, but also these salty, mineral elements. I love the depth, but it stays brisk as well. Alentejo whites are underrated (I think), and this is a great example of what I mean. This wine is crazy good for the money. 75% Arinto, 25% Verdelho, barrel-fermented with lees stirring. (91 points)
2017 Quinta da Fonte Souto Portalegre Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Portalegre SRP: $25 Almost neon purple color. Rich on the nose with black cherries, plums, blueberries, with smoky, leathery tones, coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied with a chewy texture, but moderate acidity. A saucy compote of blueberries and plums, but the fruit has a nice, crunchy edge. Laced with cocoa, lavender, violets, earth and leather. Good stuff, showing good complexity. Alicante Bouschet with Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Alfrocheiro. (88 points)
Spain
2016 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja SRP: $15 Light purple. Smells of bright cherries and strawberries, with spicy tobacco, rose petals and floral tea. Medium-bodied on the palate, with light, dusty tannins. Fresh and zippy stile with juicy red fruits (strawberries and raspberries), with lots of tobacco and rose petals. Fun, fresh Rioja that delivers quite a bit of balance and depth for a Crianza at this price point. Tempranillo with 8% Garnacha and 1% Mazuelo, aged 12 months in a mix of French and American oak. (87 points)
2014 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja SRP: $20 Medium purple color. Lovely earthy, spicy and floral notes on the nose, along with leaves, soil, tobacco, red pepper flakes, over top of fresh cherry fruit. Medium/full-bodied with suave tannins and vibrant acidity, with crisp black cherry fruit. Quite complex notes of cigar lounge, leather, pepper, floral and earth, with a smooth, vanilla finish. Lovely freshness and balance. Drink now or hold for a few. Tempranillo with a combined 5% Graciano, Mazuelo. (89 points)
2014 Viñas del Vero Somontano Secastilla - Spain, Aragón, Somontano SRP: $40 Deep purple color. Big and dark on the nose, with black cherries and blackberries, topped in campfire smoke, cocoa, anise, scorched earth, vanilla. Full-bodied with sweet, smooth tannins and surprisingly moderate acidity that helps keep it going. Black cherries, dark plums, blueberries, juicy dark fruit is matched with smoky charcoal, cocoa, mint, black pepper. Rich, suave and plush, but showing liveliness as well. Drink on the early side. 100% Garnacha, aged 10 months in French oak. (88 points)
