Revisiting Some Delicious Arizona Wines

I've been visiting Arizona for 10 years now, and I feel like I'm just scratching the surface.

As an East Coaster, the desert wilderness intrigues me, and I spend as much time as possible out there in nature. 

Over the holidays, I spent a week in Arizona, and I got in some good hiking in the Superstition Wilderness, east of Phoenix. Although the weather was cold and rainy (for Arizona), and the conditions frequently challenging, I was rewarded with some epic views and great memories.

As a lover of many Arizona wines, I made an effort early in my trip to stock up on some wines from some of my favorite Arizona producers. I've visited Page Springs Cellars in the Verde Valley (and written about them here) and Dos Cabezas in Sonoita before (and written about them here). I always like checking in on these producers, and the batch of wines I picked offered lots of holiday deliciousness and cheer.

See my notes below...


2018 Page Springs Cellars Vino del Barrio Blanca - USA, Arizona
$16
Peachy, guava-rich nose with lychee and lots of flowers and honey. Medium-bodied, creamy texture but surprising acidity. Lots of rich, tropical fruit (white peach, guava, nectarine, lychee) with a good mix of yellow flowers, spicy mint and white pepper. Creamy and plump but also salty and bright. Lots of fun. A mix of Malvasia Bianca, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Vermentino, Colombard, Chardonnay, Roussanne and Ugni Blanc. (87 points)

2017 Page Springs Cellars Counoise Rosé House Mountain Vineyard - USA, Arizona
$28
Deep copper color. Subdued a bit on the nose, but does show some white flower and nettle notes on top of white peach and wild strawberry. Plump, punchy but crisp on the palate with fleshy strawberry and white cherry tones. Nice creaminess and acidity combination, and there’s a good dose of nettle, white pepper and oregano. Subtle and understated, but it’s quite pleasant. (87 points) 

2018 Page Springs Cellars Mule's Mistake - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
$16
Medium ruby color. The nose shows juicy cherries, strawberries, along with pepper, cinnamon, earthy and rose petal notes. Zesty and crisp with light tannins, I always love this wine’s fresh, zippy, red-fruited, spicy appeal. Tangy strawberry, red apple peel, with some pepper, mint, earthy tones. Bright, fun, energetic stuff. A fun, funky blend of Grenache, Carignan, Counoise, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Malvasia Bianca and Colombard. (88 points) 

2016 Page Springs Cellars El Serrano - USA, Arizona
$33
Bold nose of plums, black cherries and dark currants, along with black pepper, leather, cocoa, anise and magic marker. Medium-bodied (13%) with smooth but structured tannins, and fresh acidity. Plums, currants, black cherries, the food is generous but fresh, laced with smoky earth, pepper, anise, cocoa, roasted chestnut and violets. Yummy stuff for sure, but also complex and shows lots of depth. I’d love to see this in two years or so. (90 points) 

2014 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Norte - USA, Arizona, Cochise County

$25
Warm and spicy aromas, smoky herbs, pepper, wet earth and creosote notes mix with cherries and raspberries. Juicy and smooth on the palate, rich but still fresh. Raspberries, plums and cherries, the fruit is suave and complex, and tossed well with earth, clay, pepper and sagebrush notes. Integrated, delicious, I love this wine. Mourvedre, Garnacha, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Counoise. (90 points) 

2018 Page Springs Cellars Vino de la Familia - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
$25
Juicy and plummy on the nose with black cherries, and roses, violets, clay, pepper and herbs. The acidity is really fresh on the palate, soft tannins, and tangy black cherry and plum fruit – the balance rocks. Roses, violets, sweet coffee, earth. Smooth, fun, balanced, inviting. Syrah, Petite Sirah, Teroldego, Malvasia Bianca. (88 points)

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

I’m back this week with another round of new California releases, and this report has some goodies.

Spring Mountain’s Smith-Madrone has long made incredible, age-worthy, unique wines, and their new Riesling and Cabernet deliver oodles of goodness for not much money. Lake County’s Steele Wines makes more appearances here, which I welcome. Lake County doesn’t get a lot of love, but Jed Steele has been making wine there for many decades, and these wines continue to offer lots of quality and value.

Mi Sueño’s Syrah and Cab, and a few other wines, round out this report. These bottles were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $34
Medium yellow color. So fresh on the nose, which pops with peaches, limes, pineapple, mixed with white flowers, hay, honey, crushed shells and sea spray. Brisk and focused on the palate with racy acidity, yet plenty of depth in texture. Tastes near dry, but shows lots of richness. Pure lime and papaya fruit mixed with mountain stream, honey and some crushed shells. This is another excellent Riesling from Smith-Madrone, one that should age beautifully. Crazy value. 12.8% alcohol, 0.68% residual sugar. (93 points)

2018 Cline Cellars Pinot Gris - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $15
Pale gold color with a slight orange tint. A burst of peach nectar, pineapple and lime on the nose, with orange blossom, honeysuckle, baby’s breath. Plush but crisp on the palate with fresh cantaloupe, white peaches and melon, drizzled in lime. Bright but not light, it’s juicy and quite complex with notes of white flowers, sea salt, honey, spiced white tea. Solid value — this is good Pinot Gris. (88 points)

2017 Oak Farm Vineyards Barbera - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Nose pops with bold black cherries and saucy plums, and I’m loving the mesquite, barbecue brisket, pepper, anise, some toffee. Full-bodied on the palate with chewy tannins, yet it shows some moderating acidity. Notes of pepper, sweet cocoa, anise cookie, saucy and forward yet it has some freshness that I find really attractive. Beefy, saucy, earthy, floral tones abound. Impressive Lodi Barbera! Most of the fruit comes from their estate vineyard in Mokelumne River, this also includes some Petite Sirah. Aged in French, American and Russian oak (about ¼ new) for 20 months. (89 points)

2016 The Paring Red Wine - California
SRP: $25
Dark purple color. Aromas of sweet black cherries, roasted figs, blueberry, topped in root beer, sweet cocoa and anise. Full-bodied on the palate, smooth tannins, medium/low acidity. This is a burly, wintry night kind of wine with extracted blueberry, roasted fig and plum cake. Lots of cedar, cocoa, vanilla, some charcoal and earthy tones. Bold but very tasty. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 55% new French oak. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Barbera Shooting Star - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Deep purple color. Smells like plum cake, cola, coffee, anise cookie and dark chocolate. Full-bodied and rich, smooth, light tannins, yet the moderate acidity adds a nice, needed freshness, and the wine is surprisingly balanced. Plums, black cherries, roasted figs, mixed with coffee, earth, anise and chocolate notes. A big wine, but well-made. From the Dorn Vineyard, aged in old American and Hungarian oak for nine months. A lot of quality and value here. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Merlot Shooting Star - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Medium ruby color. Smells of tart cherries, raspberry jam, red currants, with smoky earth, tobacco and mint notes. Medium/full-bodied, smooth and velvety tannins, moderating acidity, it’s all held together quite well, sporting cherries, raspberries and saucy plums. Notes of violets, clay, earth and coffee and some complexity. Saucy yet vibrant, with oak and coffee woven in well. Solid bargain here. (87 points)

2017 Steele Wines Syrah Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. This wine pops with aromas of spicy pepper, mesquite grill, saddle leather, with black cherries and blueberries. Velvety tannins on the palate, this is smooth and quite refreshing, with lively acidity. Plummy, blueberry fruit, mixed with a good dose of black olives, savory grilling spices, coffee and black tea. This is fresh and fun, but shows a lot of complexity and depth. Solid value Syrah here from Steele. From Cana Springs Vineyard in Lake County, this is aged 12 months in 15% new French, American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Medium ruby color. The nose shows tangy cherries, strawberries, red currants, along with inviting, spicy elements of tobacco, black olive, violets – really nice. Medium/full-bodied but poised with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Tangy black cherries and red currants, blended with violets, clove, pepper, olive. Rounded, nuanced, accessible, yet a lot of complexity for a wine at this price point. Sourced from Shannon Ridge Vineyards in High Valley, aged 15 months in hybrid French and American oak barrels. (89 points)

2017 Steele Wines Malbec Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Deep ruby color. Fresh and inviting nose, with red plums, raspberries, black cherries, along with barbecue sauce, black pepper, anise and sweet tea. Smooth and velvety on the palate, fresh acidity, fun black cherry and raspberry jam fruit. Charcoal, cola, coffee, mint and vanilla elements blend together well. Ripe and juicy, but lovely freshness as well. Aged 12 months in 15% new American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)

2016 Steele Wines Merlot Stymie Founder's Reserve - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $42
Deep purple color. The aromas of plummy and rich with roasted figs, cherry sauce, dark earth, graphite, pencil shavings. Suave, medium acidity keeps the palate fresh, zippy but plump with moderate/light tannins. Rich cherries and dark plums, laced with smoky earth, mint chocolate chip, leather and violets. Suave, balanced, vibrant, for near-term drinking but there’s a lot going on here. From a gravelly bench vineyard overlooking the Big Valley of Lake County, aged 22 months in 20% new French and American oak. (89 points)

2016 Steele Wines Small Batch Bourbon Barrel Red - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Smells of raspberry jam, plum cake, violets, cocoa, vanilla coffee. Full-bodied with chewy tannins, medium acidity helps keep it fresh. Tangy plums, sweet black cherries, the fruit is mixed with loamy earth, tobacco, black olive, with smoky oak and vanilla. Delicious, built well, shows some good complexity. Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Barbera aged 120 days in bourbon barrels. (87 points)

2015 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $52
Light purple color. Wow, the aromas pop with juicy yet crunchy red and black currants, plum skins, along with earthy, rocky tones, graphite, coffee and violets. Full but balanced so nicely on the palate. Solid tannic structure for aging, vibrant acidity, the mouthfeel sets the stage for smooth black cherries and tart red currants. Fruit is laced with violets, clove, graphite, tobacco, and there are lots of earthy, savory tones that need years to fully show themselves. Gorgeous concentration, yet balanced and lively. Includes 16% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. For my palate, this is one of the most insane bargains in Napa Cabernet. I’m so stoked this wine exists. (94 points)

2016 Mi Sueño Syrah - California, Napa Valley, Coombsville
SRP: $55
Deep, extracted purple color. Nose shows a dense combination of blueberry and blackberry, with more open, floral and spice tones (violets, cracked pepper, bay leaf), with some vanilla and coffee. Full-bodied with solid grip, but the tannins show smooth edges, medium acidity. The fruit is deep and bold but shows a crunchy edge, blueberry and blackberry. Notes of vanilla, cigar shop, black pepper and sweet barbecue sauce add complexity, with notes of vanilla and espresso woven in well. Delicious now, but this needs four years or so to show its best. 100% Syrah aged 20 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2016 Mi Sueño Cabernet Sauvignon Lynn’s Vineyard - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $95
Deep, dark purple color. Gobs of crushed berries on the nose (blackberry, blueberry), topped in smoky earth, coffee, tar, anise and magic marker. Full and saucy on the palate with a nice backbone, but rounded tannins, medium/low acidity. Big, but it holds itself well, with plenty of blackberry, blueberry and roasted fig fruit. Lots of charcoal smoke, graphite, coffee grounds, dark chocolate and violet elements as well. This could use two to three years to integrate. All Cabernet, aged 20 months in 65% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Virginia Governor's Cup Winners Wow Again

I love Virginia wines, and not just because a lot of Virginia wine country is close to my home in Washington, DC. It’s been difficult to keep up, however, with Virginia wines, as more and more producers keep popping up, year after year.

For the past seven years or so, I’ve enjoyed sampling some of the Commonwealth’s best wines through the Governor’s Cup Case. For the 2019 Governor’s Cup competition, wineries submitted more than 500 entries. An esteemed group of wine experts blind-tasted their way through them all, narrowing the winners down to 12.

This year features some well-known producers, and some that I was not as familiar with. Stalwarts like Horton and Barboursville make an appearance, as does King Family, whose wines frequently feature in the winning dozen. And Early Mountain’s Eluvium blend wows again.

But winemaker Michael Shaps really ran away with this in the 2019 Governor’s Cup. He makes wine in Burgundy (under the Maison Shaps label), and some excellent Virginia wines under the Michael Shaps Wineworks moniker, three of which made it into this case. He also works as a consulting winemaker for more than a dozen Virginia wineries. Two of those wines also made it into this case.

These wines were received as part of an online tasting organized by my friend and Virginia wine whiz Frank Morgan. They were tasted sighted.

2017 Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino Reserve - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$23

Light yellow color. So fresh with its aromatic display of wet rocks, mountain stream, crushed shells, wild green herbs, honeysuckle, over lime and crunchy apricot fruit. Vibrant, gorgeous acidity on the palate meets a waxy mouthfeel, and the balance is superb. Juicy lime, apricot and papaya fruit blends well with river rocks, fresh rain, wet slate elements, and I get these cool notes of mint, verbena and honeysuckle. I’ve loved this wine before in other vintages, but this one is extra special. Gorgeous stuff, and great value. (91 points)

2016 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$30

Almost neon yellow color. These aromas are hedonistic as hell, with rich nougat, almond butter, orange marmalade, lemon cake, graham cracker and candied ginger. Plump texture on the palate, this is bold and waxy but sports lively acidity. Hard-punching fruit (baked apple, glazed pear, candied orange), and mixed with flavors of cinnamon cake, peanut brittle, orange creamsicle, honey and graham cracker. There are some salty, white tea notes. Still a lively wine, but I feel some of the nuances of the fruit are masked by oak. (88 points)

2016 Horton Vineyards Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County

$25

Rich gold color. A bright and attractive nose of sea salt, white tea, waxy-oily tones and honey, on top of lemon curd and kiwi fruit. Rich textural depth on the palate, but ripping acidity (which I love), and the balance is on point. Tropical, a burst of lime, kiwi, green melon, but there’s a rush of underlying chalk dust, minerals, and sea salt that keeps it racy, lively, complex. A well-deserved spot on among the Governor’s Cup winners. (90 points)

2016 Early Mountain Vineyards Eluvium - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County

$35

Deep purple color. A dark aromatic core of blackberry and black cherry, with loads of pepper, anise, magic marker, a saucy and spicy nose. Sturdy and well-built, with solid tannic grip but moderate acidity, set against a core of blackberry and currant fruit. Lots of smoky, earthy, tar notes, with anise, black pepper glaze, accented with coffee and vanilla elements. This needs three years or so to show it’s best, but with air and time, it has a lot to show. Very good stuff again from Early Mountain. Merlot and Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2015 Glen Manor Vineyards Cabernet Franc - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley

$34

Medium purple color. Smells lively and fresh, with black cherries, wild blueberries, along with plenty of mesquite, barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, sweet violets and coffee. Medium/full-bodied with solid tannic grip, moderate acidity, this is pieced together nicely. Vibrant black cherries and blueberry fruit blends well with complex smoky, menthol, barbecue sauce and leather notes. A riper, darker style of Cab Franc, but very well done. Dark chocolate and coffee grounds elements are woven in well. This could really use four or five years, but it’s a beautiful Virginia Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

2016 King Family Vineyards Mountain Plains - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$70

Medium purple color. On the nose, there’s a solid core of currants, black cherries, red plums, with violets, sage, menthol, fallen leaves, cedar shavings. On the palate this wine shows solid grip but crisp, focused acidity. Crunchy currant fruit mixes well with complex elements of campfire smoke, grilled meat, violets, tobacco leaf, graphite. Notes of roasted coffee and vanilla are woven in expertly. This is really, really good, and deserves five years of time in the cellar to show its best potential. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2016 King Family Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$75

Light purple color. Beautiful aromas of crushed raspberries, juicy black currants, and a complex host of tobacco leaf, sweet violets, mint, loamy earth, espresso and cedar. Medium/full-bodied, crisp acidity balances out the sturdy tannins nicely, and the freshness is gorgeous. Crushed black cherries, raspberries and currants, the fruit is laced with notes of racy minerals, graphite, smashed rocks. Tobacco, mushroom and fallen leaves add complexity, while cedar and coffee notes mix in well. This is beautiful stuff that will age for a decade easily. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. (91 points)

2015 Michael Shaps Tannat - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$35

Deep purple color. On the nose, a deep core of tart currant and black cherry fruit, mixed with lovely mesquite, incense, pepper, cocoa, tons going on but it needs a lot of air. Full but fresh on the palate, solid grip, this is young but balanced. Tangy black cherry and cassis mix with lots of complex barbecue, anise, pepper, grilled herbs, and dark chocolate notes. The freshness is really attractive, and the wine finishes with deep mineral and graphite elements. I’d love to see this with five to eight years of age on it. (90 points)

2015 Paradise Springs Meritage - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia

$49

Deep purple color. So peppery and leathery on the nose, with grilled steak and campfire smoke, mixed with blackberry compote. Fresh acidity frames the wine nicely, structured but smooth tannins, with velvety, suave currant and blackberry fruit. Significant oak signatures (chocolate chip, vanilla, espresso), but they’re woven in well with elements of tilled soil, graphite, leather, pepper and grilled steak. This could use a year or two to open up, or a good decant. Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2016 Hamlet Vineyards Eltham - USA, Virginia

$27

Medium purple color. Smoky aromas of mesquite, grilled steak, coffee and anise, on top of tangy red and black currants. Medium-bodied, zippy and fresh acidity, structured tannins, but they have rounded edges and are integrated well. Crisp black cherries, crunchy plums and cranberry fruit, topped in pepper, soy, menthol, violets and leather. Fruity yet vibrant with integrated coffee and oak elements. Fresh but not simple, this is my first time tasting from this producer, and it’s a good introduction. 50/50 Merlot and Petit Verdot. (88 points)

2014 Upper Shirley Vineyards Zachariah Reserve - USA, Virginia

$40

Deep purple color. Deep and spicy nose with a dark core of blackberry and dark plum, mixed with tobacco, charcoal, magic marker. Full-bodied with solid tannic grip, medium acidity. The dark, crunchy currant and plum fruit is blended with smoky, beefy, menthol tones, violets, with coffee and cocoa tones. The oak signature is heavy, here. A bit intense, this could use some age, as it took a while to open up. Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Tannat. (86 points)

2016 Michael Shaps Raisin d'Etre - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$25/375ml

Deep orange color. Such bold, rich, inviting aromas, with guava, candied orange peel, lychee, glazed pears, roasted nuts. The texture on the palate is sweet and lush with gorgeous depth and vibrant, crisp acidity – the balance is superb. Honeyed pears, apricot, the fruit is mixed with graham cracker, peanut brittle, cinnamon crumb cake, but also these salted almond and crushed shell tones. Delicious, complex, harmonious, this can age a long time. Petit Manseng grapes dried in tobacco barns, this has 13% alcohol and 7% residual sugar. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Italian Wines from Tuscany & Piedmont

Since last month’s Italian tasting report, I’ve received some more Italian samples to dig into.

This week, I’m focusing on two producers. Enrico Serafino has been producing wine in the Roero subregion of Piedmont for some 140 years. In addition to the traditional white and red table wines of the region, Serafino also makes some Champagne-method sparkling wines. I found the three wines I tasted deliver a lot of classic Piedmont elements, and a lot of quality for their respective price points.

I also received some Tuscan wines from Badia a Coltibuono. This estate in the Chianti hills has been controlled by the same family for five generations, although the winery used to be an abbey that dates back to the 11th Century. All the wines are estate-grown and organic. Like other wines in this portfolio, Badia a Coltibuono delivers some solid Chianti value, and their entry-level wines are fresh, lively and pleasant.

These wines are all imported exclusively by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, which imports a variety of Italian wines direct from wineries. They were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2018 Enrico Serafino Grifo del Quartaro Gavi di Gavi - Italy, Piedmont, Gavi
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. Bright, salty appeal on the nose, with lemon, quince, topped with white pepper and nettle. Crisp and zesty on the palate, but a chalky texture. Nice and pithy with lemon and grapefruit, mixed with saline, floral perfume, and some honeyed, salted almond elements going on. Solid value Gavi here, and it shows a lot of personality, which is not something I’m used to saying about Gavi. (89 points)

2017 Enrico Serafino Langhe Nebbiolo Picotener - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
SRP: $25
Light purple color. A rich, deep, fruit-forward nose of black cherries, red and black currants, with a mix of earth, tar, pepper and violets. Moderate acidity on the palate, some smooth tannins, and lots of plush, ripe black cherry and roasted fig fruit. The concentration and jamminess of the fruit is significant, but there’s also some violets, coffee and grilled herbs to add some other elements. A chewy, riper style of Nebbiolo for early drinking. (87 points)

2015 Enrico Serafino Barolo Monclivio - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Bright and expressive on the nose with chilled strawberries and red currants, topped with roses, violets, pepper, and oregano notes. The palate shows fresh acidity, moderate tannins but not harsh edges or greenness here. Fresh red cherries and currants, tossed well with earthy, rocky, charcoal notes, along with a pleasant mix of herbs and flowers. This shows a lot of class for a Barolo at this price. It drinks well now, but I’d like to check back in two or three years. (90 points)

2017 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico RS - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP $16
Bright ruby color. Smoky and herbal tones kick off the nose (charcoal, tobacco, with soy, rose hips and pepper tones) on top of tangy currants and cherries. Medium/bodied, this wine has a light/dusty tannic frame and tart acidity. Fresh and fun with notes of bright cherries and red currants, topped in rose petals, grilled herbs, tilled soil and charcoal. Fun, early-drinking style Chianti. (87 points)

2017 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $20
Vibrant aromas of cherries, tangy currants, cranberry sauce, with elements of menthol, roses, spiced tea. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, the tannins have structure but round edges, on a medium-bodied frame. Fresh, tangy, red and black currants, topped with tobacco, oregano, soy, earth, with violets and coffee tones. Could use a year or two, but it is accessible now, and opens up nicely, showing some complexity and balance for the price. (87 points)

2016 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $36
Pretty aromatics of raspberries, red cherries and red currants, along with menthol, smoky mesquite, tobacco, and spicy dry rub. Smooth texture on the palate, moderate tannic grip, zippy acidity, this is nicely balanced. Shows crunchy, chilled red cherries and currants, with a nice dose of spiced black tea, rose hips, mint chewing tobacco, mulch and earth. Lovely freshness, fresh and bright but solid complexity. This could use two or three years to unwind. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Blind-Tasting some California Pinot Noirs

Happy New Year, all! 

I’m back to start off the new year with a bunch of California Pinot Noirs. In the fall, I started receiving a lot of California Pinots and Chardonnays. I don’t often get to do comparative blind tastings, so I was excited to collect them and taste through them. (The Chardonnay report can be found here.)

This is a nice mix of inexpensive, widely-available brands, with some single-vineyard, smaller production stuff.

J Vineyards’ Sonoma Pinots provide wines that deliver a great classic cherry and cola goodness that I’ve grown to love.

The Maggy Hawk wines are all really exciting, and stood out with their finesse and elegance. These wines are made by Pinot Noir veteran winemaker Tony Rynders, and all sourced from the same vineyard. Each of the four wines, however, is a blend of different blocks and clones. These are really interesting wines that I’d recommend seeking out if you like Anderson Valley Pinot.

The full report is below. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.

2018 Lucky Rock Wine Co. Pinot Noir - California
SRP: $22
Nose pops with sweet cherries, strawberry jam, along with rhubarb, rose petals and cola. Light and smooth tannins on the palate, there’s a nice streak of acid that makes this refreshing to drink. Tangy cherries, sweet raspberries and strawberries, this is a fun and accessible wine with notes of rhubarb, cola, toffee. There are these cool earthy and cinnamon stick notes. Fun, fresh, delightful style, solid value. A mix of fruit from Monterey, San Benito and Sonoma Counties, aged nine months in 10% new French oak. (87 points)

2017 The Paring Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Aromas show black cherries, dark plums, raspberries, with these notes of warm black tea, clove, rose potpourri, some coconut and coffee. Wow, this has a lot of freshness on the palate, medium-bodied frame, smooth tannins, this is a fruit-forward but fresh Pinot. Plums, black cherries, saucy raspberries, the fruit is rich but vibrant. Coffee, vanilla and coconut shavings mix with tilled soil, black tea and rose petals, some mineral, rocky tones. This is fun stuff for near-term drinking, but it shows a lot of complexity (and value), too. For a wine at this price point, this style is rare. (89 points)

2016 Talbott Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $50
Smells like fresh cranberries, strawberries, strawberries, red apple peel, with rhubarb, white pepper, black tea notes. Medium/full-bodied, smooth tannins, medium acidity, balanced nicely. A core of raspberries and spiced cranberry jam, the fruit is bold and ripe but pretty, too. Nuanced notes of rose petals, rhubarb, white pepper and bay leaf. Cola and roasted chestnut elements mix well with the savory, floral tones. Quite complex, very delicious, open for business now but this could hold for a few years. (90 points)

2017 Steele Wines Pinot Noir Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Aromas of spicy strawberries and raspberries, with pepper, cola, rose hips, leather and earth. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and a fresh, zippy appeal. Sweet cherries and raspberry jam mixes well with nuanced notes of cola, pepper, roses, bay leaf. Has a lot of fun spice and herbal tones to accent the fruit. Ready to drink, but a lot going on. Aged 12 months in 10% new French oak. (89 points)

2018 Clos Pegase Pinot Noir Mitsuko's Vineyard - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $40
Nose shows pretty red cherries, chilled strawberries and raspberries, with rose potpourri, pepper, sage, slight cola note. Brisk and mouthwatering acidity, this holds its full body well, with smooth tannins, lovely balance. Cool cherries, raspberries and red apple fruit. Complex notes of bay leaf, rose petal, sage and pepper, all of which add a vibrant, floral and earth sense to accent the red fruits. Delicious stuff, ready to go. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Jolie - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65

Deep cherry and raspberry aromas, with a complex blend of rose petals, tobacco leaf, smoky, earthy tones, but also airy, lifted notes. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, medium/full-bodied, serious grip on tannins, but this is really well-balanced. Bright strawberries, raspberries and cherries, gorgeous, concentrated fruit, yet so lively. Notes of clove, cola, earth, wild herbs add complexity. I’d love to see what this does in five years. Made from their estate vineyard Block 9, aged 15 months in 45% new French oak. (93 points) 

2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Unforgettable - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Gorgeous nose of cherries and strawberries, deep yet vibrant, with roses, pepper, earth, coffee. Nice grip on the palate, but rounded edges, full but balanced. Deep black cherry fruit, cranberry relish, along with complex elements of roasted chestnut, clove, warm clay, coffee. Lovely depth and concentration, but vibrancy is there, too. This could use four to five years and should improve for longer. A blend of Blocks 6 and 13 (vinified separately), aged 15 months in 43% new French oak. (92 points)

2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Stormin' - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Aromas of cranberries and cherries, and there’s a lot of spicy herbal tones, rose petals, black tea, along with warm clay and earth. Medium/full-bodied with bright acidity, and moderate grip on the tannins, but no harsh edges — this has lovely balance. Crunchy cranberries, black cherries, wild raspberries, the fruit is laced with smoky earth, pepper, paprika and rose petals. Lovely, fresh, vibrant yet structured well; this should improve with three to four years of cellaring. From Blocks 15 and 13, aged in 43% new French oak. (93 points)

2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Afleet - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Smells of wild raspberries, red cherries and cranberries, along with rose petals, menthol, mint, with spiced tea and earth. Medium/full-bodied with suave tannins and fresh acidity, this is smooth and juicy, vibrant but velvety. Cranberries, wild raspberries, strawberries, deep yet pretty fruit, laced with cola, rhubarb, earth, roasted chestnut, mint. Lots of complexity and elegance already, but I’d love to see this in two or three years. From Blocks 6, 7 and 9, aged in 27% new French oak. (92 points)

2018 Cline Cellars Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $20
Aromas of fresh cherries and strawberry jam, with sweet cola, roses, spicy rhubarb, white pepper and bay leaf tones. Medium/full-bodied, soft tannins, moderate acidity, with sweet black cherries, currants, with strawberry jam. Mixed with mocha, coffee and vanilla elements. A ripe, juicy, accessible, crowd-pleasing style for early consumption. Aged five to ten months in 40% new French oak. (86 points)

2018 Pfendler Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $55
On the nose, I get a huge (and pleasant) kick of earth and spice, like potting soil, paprika, black pepper, on top of sweet roses and suave black cherries and strawberries. Full-bodied but holds it well, chewy tannins, medium+ acidity. Smooth black cherries, raspberries and strawberries, the fruit blends well with elements of roses, tobacco, and a cool, herbal, brothy tone. Good amount of oak and vanilla, but it’s woven in well, and doesn’t dominate. Fun, yummy, but elegant stuff. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Russian River Selection - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Aromas of juicy strawberries, raspberries, black cherries, along with violets, cola, rhubarb and coffee. Medium-bodied, velvety tannins, moderating acidity. The fruit is forward and joyful, with raspberries, strawberry jam, cherry cheesecake topping. I get notes of rhubarb, cola, mint chocolate chip. Ripe and fun, but lively and vibrant, too. Aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. (88 points)

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $40

Aromas pop with ripe black cherries and strawberries, along with rose hips, rhubarb, clove, bold fruit but nice and spicy, too. Full but smooth on the palate with medium acidity, silky tannins, lots of cherries and strawberry preserves, tart/sweet cranberry relish. Lots of deliciousness but also a good amount of pepper, clove, black tea and tar. Nuanced cola and cedar mix in well. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Strata - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Smells of chilled strawberries, raspberries, red cherries and pomegranate, and a nice mix of spicy pepper, paprika, violets and cedar. Warm and inviting on the palate, slightly chewy tannins, vibrant and fresh too. Black cherries, strawberries, pomegranate, with notes of cola, spiced black tea, pepper and roses, some coffee and cedar. Rich and voluptuous, but lively, too. Aged 13 months in 35% new French oak. (91 points) 

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Canfield - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $75
Inviting and complex nose of roses, violets, tea leaves, clove, cola, on top of lots of raspberries, red cherries and cranberry. Full-bodied, smooth but structured, fresh acidity, the balance is quite nice. Juicy strawberries, chilled raspberries, pretty fruit, and I get accents of roses, tilled soil, and some underlying earth, mineral, rocky elements. Lively, spicy, tasty stuff that could improve over the next few years. Aged 14 months in 38% new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Digging into the Rioja Wines of Bodegas LAN

For me, Rioja has always carried with it this sense of noble history and tradition. I associate Rioja with old, dusty cellars, giant oak vats, bottles with Spanish noblemen on the labels. 

But Bodegas LAN is a relative newbie in this time-honored region, and does things a bit differently. Formed in 1972 in Rioja Alta, the name of this estate is an acronym based on the Rioja provinces of Logroño, Alava and Navarra. They produce a wide range of wines, from inexpensive, early-drinking bottles, to deeper, concentrated wines that benefit from years of cellar aging. 

LAN’s best wines come from the Viña Lanciano vineyard, a 180-acre property that sticks out like a thumb into a bend of the Ebro River. Divided into 22 parcels, Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha vines (some of which 60 years old) dig into rocky, riverbed soils. Being surrounded by water helps shield these vines from temperature extremes during the year. 

Another thing about LAN that makes it unique is their barrel regimen and cellar room. The cellar has about 20,000 casks stacked in different pyramids. Installed around 2000, LAN has an automatic stacking and racking system that keeps their barrels organized. Every six months, the barrels are racked, emptied and tasted, allowing the winemaking team to adjust barrel regimen if needed. 

LAN also uses a wide selection of oak types, sourced from France, America, Russia, Hungary and Spain. Hybrid casks (with American oak staves and French oak heads) are used for the LAN Crianza and Reserva. 

In November, I had the opportunity to taste through a bunch of wines from Bodegas LAN with Winestudio, a wine education and marketing program. It was an interesting time, learning about these wines, and being reminded about how much quality these wines can show, for relatively few dollars. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

2016 Bodegas LAN Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$13
This has a pleasantly smoky nose with tangy red cherries, raspberries, and notes of menthol, vanilla and herbs. Medium-bodied, light/moderate tannins, tangy acidity. Juicy black cherries topped in roasted herbs, mint, coffee and pepper. Has an easy-drinking personality, but also shows some solid complexity for a Crianza. Aged 14 months in hybrid oak barrels, includes about 4% Mazuelo. (87 points)


2011 Bodegas LAN Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
$23
Light purple color. Lovely depth of dark fruit aromas (cassis, black cherries), with lots of anise, violets, potting soil, spiced tea – inviting, integrated aromas. Medium-bodied with structured tannins, nuanced edges, moderate acidity. Nice core of blackberries, red and black currants, fleshy but tangy fruit. Complex earthy, smoky, charcoal, tobacco, violets. There’s a really crisp finish with all sorts of floral and spice tones. Three to four years could do this well. (90 points) 


2016 Bodegas LAN Rioja D-12 Tenth Edition - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$20
Bright purple color. Quite concentrated on the nose, with red and black cherries, topped in mesquite, pepper, roasted herbs and vanilla. Smooth and velvety on the palate, built well though, with solid grip for a Crianza, and lively acidity. Smooth black cherries and crunchy dark plums, blended with smoky herbs, tobacco leaf, autumn forest and vanilla. Fresh and accessible but “serious,” too. Really opens up with some air, this is a delightful Crianza. All Tempranillo, aged 70% new American oak and 30% new French oak. A blend from a 30 year-old vineyard located in Lanciego (Rioja Alavesa) and one in Rioja Alta. (89 points)   


2015 Bodegas LAN Rioja Xtreme Ecologico Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$18
Bold purple color. Saucy aromas of black cherries, plum sauce, roasted fig, along with smoky earthy, coffee grounds, violets and spicy black tea. Medium-bodied, moderate tannins fresh acidity, this is bright but structured, balanced quite well. Tangy black cherries and roasted figs mix well with lots of floral complexities, earth, herbs. A lot of refinement for a Crianza, this is lovely now, but two to four years should do it good. All Tempranillo sourced from an organic plot in the Lanciano estate, aged 14 months in French oak. (89 points)


2012 Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
$18
Medium purple color. Aromas pop with juicy black cherries, red and black currants, with an enticing aspect of earth, smoke, charcoal and spicy herbs. Medium+bodied with smooth, integrated tannins and moderate acidity. Nice concentration of fruit (black cherries, currant compote), along with charcoal, graphite, fallen leaves and vanilla elements. Drinking well now but this could show more in a few years. Serious value in here. Aged 18 months in hybrid French/American oak barrels. (89 points)

2012 Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva Viña Lanciano - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$27
Deep ruby color. Nose shows tart, dark, crunchy cherries, laced with lots of tobacco, spiced black tea, anise and charcoal. Medium-bodied, really fresh and inviting, with velvety but structured tannins, the crisp, cool nature is really attractive. Red and black currants and cherries, raspberries, smooth, crunchy fruit. Notes of smoky charcoal, anise, black tea and chewing tobacco, with a graphite and mineral layer underneath. This should do well with five years in the cellar. Includes a combined 10% Graciano and Mazuelo, sourced from old vines in the Lanciano estate, this wine is aged 14 months in French oak, and then eight months in Russian oak. (91 points)


2016 Bodegas LAN Rioja Edición Limitada - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$36
Vibrant purple color. Rich core of suave red and black cherries and currants, lots of tobacco, mint, anise, black tea, cocoa powder, vanilla. Medium/full-bodied, nice grip, solid but not abrasive tannins, lively acidity — balance is on point. Gobs of dark cherries and currants, the fruit is ripe but lively. The wine is loaded with graphite, tobacco, mint and coffee. Needs air to coax out the full host of herbal, spicy complexities. Built for aging, but suave and vibrant now as well. Sourced from 35- to 40-year-old vines in the El Rincon parcel of the Lanciano estate, this includes some Mazuelo and Graciano as well. Aged nine months in new French oak, then five months in new Russian oak. (92 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.