I’ve been a fan of wines from Lodi for a long time, and it’s been interesting to follow them for these past ten years or so. Lodi wines are all about diversity, as the wines in this report show. With old vines, diverse soils, and tons of different grape varieties, winemakers have a lot to work with. There are small lot, old vine, bright and vibrant styles, and large production, jammy, fun styles, and everything in between, really. In addition to all the classic California staples, I enjoy wines made from Spanish, Italian, German and Austrian grapes, too.
And Lodi’s wine trade group has been working hard to promote these wines in the wine community for many years. I think a lot of it has paid off. With an engaged social media presence, a well-done blog, and fascinating projects like the Lodi Native Zinfandels that I first wrote about in 2014, I’m still excited about this region.
I recently had a chance to catch up with Elaine Chukan Brown as she and some other Lodi wine folks were touring the country. I had a great time catching some of her passion for the wines of Lodi and the people who make them. I also received some Lodi samples recently, which I included in this report. The wines were all tasted sighted.
Whites
2018 Acquiesce Ingenue - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Mokelumne River SRP: $32 So bright and floral on the nose. The palate has a pleasant creaminess, deep texture, but vibrant acidity. Creamy peach, kiwi and melon fruit mix with hay and floral spice. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc and Picpoul Blanc, fermented in stainless steel. Owner/winemaker Susan Tipton only produces white blends, in Lodi, nonetheless. She clearly knows what she’s doing. (89 points)
SRP: $22 Brisk, alpine aromas of mountain stream, crushed rocks, with sea salt, lime and green melon. Plush texture meets ripping acidity on the palate, which has lovely depth and balance. Lemon, tangerine and green melon mix well with notes of hay, chalk, sea salt. A bright, vibrant, invigorating blend of Kerner, Bacchus and Riesling from Mokelumne Glen Vineyards. (91 points)
Reds
2017 Bokisch Vineyards Graciano Las Cerezas Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Clements Hills SRP: $32 So airy and fresh on the nose, with bright raspberries, red apple peel, with rhubarb, white pepper, rose petals. Crisp and juicy on the palate, smooth tannins, balanced and fresh. Deep core of fruit (raspberries and cherries), but the wine always stays lively and fresh, and shows notes of rose petals and incense sticks. Bokisch does some awesome things with Spanish varieties in Lodi, and this wine is a great example of that. (91 points)
So aromatic, with floral perfume, spiced tea, vibrant cherries, raspberries, some leather. On the palate, this is so crisp and inviting, with rounded-edged tannins, lively acidity, crunchy yet suave fruit (raspberries, red cherries). Pinot-like elegance, with time more dusty earth, mineral and clay notes come out. Includes some Carignan, Flame Tokay and Cinsault. This is really special stuff, and one of the prettiest Zin-based wines I’ve tasted in a long time. (93 points)
2017 Markus Wine Co. Touriga Nacional Toura - California, Central Valley, Lodi SRP: $39 Expressive aromas of juicy black cherries, raspberries, cherries, with violet petals, clove, scorched earth. Vibrant acidity frames the wine well against dusty tannins. This has a plush but zippy aesthetic. Cherries and crunchy red apple mix with notes of floral perfume, clove and coffee woven in so well. So pretty and elegant, even at this young age, but I’d love to see it in five years or so. Equal parts Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. (91 points)
2017 Turley Zinfandel Steacy Ranch - California, Central Valley, Lodi SRP: $30 The aromas are so expressive and vibrant: cherries and strawberries topped in tobacco leaf, spiced tea, rhubarb and mus. Velvety tannins meet moderate acidity on the palate, this has a round but fresh and bright appeal, with smooth red cherry and raspberry fruit. Notes of lavender, clay, clove and tobacco add complexity. I’d love to see what this does in three to five years. Includes some Grenache and Carignan, this is sourced from a vineyard planted in 1907. (91 points)
2018 Turley Zinfandel Dogtown Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Clement HillsSRP: N/A Bright ruby color. Gorgeous nose of raspberries, strawberries and cherries, lovely freshness but a lot of deeper tones too, dusty earth, violets, warm mulling spices. On the palate, the acidity is super fresh, the tannins are fine and frame the wine well, lovely balance. Raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit, mixing with delightful tones of clove rose petals, sage. So bright, elegant and precise, very easy to drink now but I’d love to see this in five or six years. From a vineyard planted in 1944, own-rooted, head-tread vines, this is a very special Zinfandel. (93 points)
SRP: $24 Light purple color. Spicy aromatic display of rose petals, mint, dusty earth, over deep cherries and raspberries. The acidity is so crisp, and frames the wine perfectly for dusty, fine tannins. Lots of depth and concentration, but there’s an airy elegance that pervades this wine. Cranberries, raspberries and cool cherries, such bright fruit, blended with complex loam, clay, warm black tea and cinnamon notes. THIs is really wonderful, but it does need lots of air to get going. Laying this down for a few years will yield a treasure. Insane value here. (93 points)
2017 The Federalist Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Bourbon Barrel Aged - California, Central Valley, Lodi SRP: $25 Deep purple color. Aromas of sweet plums, chocolate-covered raisins, coconut shavings, anise cookies. On the palate, this is plush and jammy with low acidity and a sweet, juicy style, with plums, black cherries, blackberries. Notes of coconut and mint chocolate chip offer lots of yumminess, and while a lot of these bourbon barrel reds can be way over the top, this one shows some nuance. Fun, fan-friendly stuff. All Cabernet aged six months in bourbon barrels. (85 points)
<85 points
2018 Cosentino Winery Zinfandel “Cigar” Old Vine Zinfandel - California, Central Valley, Lodi SRP: $20 Dark purple color. Smoky aromas with sweet, jammy, plummy fruit and sweet cocoa, crème brulee. Full and saucy on the palate with low acidity, and high-octane, jammy fruit (roasted figs, yogurt-covered raisins, and sweet blueberries). Smoky, charcoal, vanilla and cola flavors on top. This is too sweet and off-balance, but I can see why some folks might like it. This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
I first tasted Alma Fria’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs in 2016, and I knew I had stumbled onto something special.
These West Sonoma Coast wines sport lower alcohol, but plenty of delicious fruit. I love their Chards for this sea spray, salinity that makes me salivate, and their Pinots for the elegant floral, spice and earth tones.
Founder Jan Holtermann comes from a background of wine importing with his family’s business in Costa Rica. But, in 2011, he and his wife Silvia moved their family to Healdsburg to start Alma Fria. They purchased their own vineyard in 2012, the Holtermann Vineyard in Annapolis.
They found a winemaker in Carroll Kemp (also of Red Car), whose children went to the same Kindergarten class in Healdsburg, California. With vineyard manager Greg Adams (who has worked with other local producers like Lynmar, Patz & Hall) the team was underway. (Click here for a 2016 Terroirist interview with Jan Holtermann.)
I recently received a batch of some Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from the 2016 and 2017 vintages. Across the board, these wines are fantastic, especially if you’re looking for more sleek, crisp styles. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.
2016 Alma Fría Chardonnay Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $40 Gorgeous aromatics of honey, white and yellow flowers, olive oil and spiced tea on top of lemon curd and nectarine. So bright and fresh on the palate, slight creaminess, but this is a brisk, chalk-dusty kind of Chardonnay with lots of minerality. Raw almond, honey, sea spray and white tea mix well with lemon and kiwi fruit. A wine to crush with friends and oysters, but this is also very complex and deep. Insanely good for the money. 13.4% alcohol, aged 12 months in old French oak. (93 points)
2017 Alma Fría Chardonnay Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $40 Bright and salty on the nose, really pretty, slightly natty, but pure and fresh throughout, with lemon and green apple fruit. Crisp and bright on the palate, with lemon, green and yellow apple fruit, but there’s this streak of saline and olive brine that is fantastic, almost a nod to Jura, but there’s still plenty of that classic Sonoma Coast goodness. Floral, mineral, talc tones round out the finish. Delicious and fascinating stuff. Aged 12 months in old French oak, 13.3% alcohol. (94 points)
SRP: $50 Rich but nuanced notes of honey, almond, ginger, coffee cake, cinnamon, over top lemon curd, orange marmalade, yellow pears. Brisk and bright acidity throughout, with a 13.3% alcohol, this is vibrant but shows deep texture. Elements of lemon crème, juicy orange and yellow pear, with notes of nougat, crème, whipped honey, coffee cake, yet there’s also these elements of oyster shell and saline. So balanced and integrated, this is a gorgeous Chardonnay. Aged 12 months in 10% new French oak. (94 points)
2017 Alma Fría Chardonnay Campbell Ranch Vineyard- USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $50 Deep, inviting aromas of apricot, lemon curd, orange peel, with complex honey, almond, ginger, also a bright, salty appeal. On the palate, this is medium-bodied with racy acidity from start to finish, but plenty of depth and fruit (yellow apples, pears, apricot, lemon crème) The complex saline, crushed stone notes complement the white tea, honey and peanut shell elements really well. This will be even more beautiful in five years or so. 13.1% alcohol, aged 12 months in 25% new French oak. (94 points)
2016 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma CoastSRP: $40 Spicy aromatic display of green herbs, clove, savory broth tones, with raspberries and red currants, so floral and fresh. On the palate, this is well-built with structured but round-edged tannins, crisp acidity, an open and inviting feel with juicy cherries and pomegranate fruit. Elements of savory broth, pepper, sage, rose petals, it adds delightful complexity. Open for business but worth of cellaring for a few years, too. Aged 12 months in 10% new French oak. This is an absurdly elegant and delicious Pinot for the price. (92 points)
2017 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Doc's Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma CoastSRP: $70 Gorgeous aromas of cherries, raspberries, red apples, with rhubarb, white pepper, pretty rose petals. Brisk and bright on a medium-bodied frame (13.2% alcohol) with round tannins and zippy red fruit (cherries, red currants, spiced cranberry relish). Elegant but plenty of depth and complexity, with elements of roses, clove, earth, light roast coffee. Lovely now but give this three-to-five years and enjoy it! Aged 12 months in 10% new French oak. (92 points)
2016 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Holtermann Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $65 Aromas of red cherries, strawberries, airy and bright, with spicy tones of herbal tea, beef bouillon cubes, rose tea. On the palate, this is light and bright but structured well, with dusty, medium tannins. Raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit, airy and elegant, with notes of menthol, clove, potpourri. This is really expressive already, but I’d give it at least two years to gain some complexity. Aged 12 months in 25% new French oak. (93 points)
2017 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Holtermann Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $70 Nose bursts with wild raspberry, strawberry, gushing red cherries, super vibrant and fresh, with complex notes of bay leaf, green herbs, white pepper, rhubarb, light roasted coffee. Velvety tannins and crisp acidity frame the wine really well, it has this smooth, fresh, focused feel. Cherries, strawberries, raspberry fruit laced with complex yet subtle notes of rose petals, clove, mint, some spicy paprika and tobacco. Complex, elegant, crushable yet age-worthy, this has pretty much everything going for it. Aged 12 months in 30% new French oak. (94 points)
2016 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Doña Margarita Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $65 Deep ruby color. Bright aromatics of raspberries, juicy cherries, red apples and plums, with rose petals, clay, earth, oregano and white pepper – really complex aromas that shift and evolve with time. Silky-smooth on the palate with dusty tannins, bright acidity, the balance is lovely. Juicy raspberries, red cherries and red apple peels mix well with earth, black tea, dried rose petals, clay and cola. Vibrant, complex, with dusty, earthy, mineral tones on the finish. Great now but I’d love to see this in four or five years. Aged 12 months in 15% new French oak. (93 points)
This week, I’m headed back to California with a roundup of samples I’ve received recently.
Fort Ross Winery’s Sea Slope brand of Pinot and Chardonnay offer up some serious quality for their respective price points. It’s not often I find such fresh, complex Pinots and Chards from California for $30-$35, but these ones deliver. Gary Farrell shows an exciting Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay, while Castello di Amorosa displays three diverse wines.
And Gamble and Cardinale give plenty of delicious, inviting Napa Cabernet goodness.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Whites and Rosés 2019 Raeburn Rosé - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $20 Pale salmon color. Aromas of peaches, papaya, lime, with some verbena, mint, honeysuckle. Creamy texture on the palate, medium bodied, bright acidity. Chunky strawberry fruit, with white cherry, papaya, this is fruit-forward and fun, but also shows some spicy, herbal, floral tones. Well-done for the price. A blend of Pinot Noir, Grenache and Zinfandel. (86 points)
2018 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Grigio - California, North Coast SRP: $24 Pale lemon color. Nose shows white peaches, guave, lime juice, with cut flower stems, white tea and verbena. Crisp acidity frames this full-bodied wine well, while punchy green melon and guava fruit abound. Notes of shaved lime, honeyed tea, some spice and herbal notes add some complexity. A pleasantly creamy, waxy texture, this is generous but balanced well. (87 points)
2017 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard- California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $45 Medium yellow color. Wow, what a pretty, inviting nose of yellow apples, kiwi and lemon curd, topped in vibrant, salty, floral, mineral complexity. Just a sniff made me salivate. The palate is plump but precise and focused with crisp fruit (yellow apple, lemon curd, white peach) and a host of racy, nuanced qualities like sea salt, river rocks, mineral water and crushed shells. Notes of almond skin and honey are woven in expertly. Not overdone at all, this is a wonderful Chardonnay for fans of more nuanced styles. I’d love to see this in five or six years. Aged nine months in 35% new French oak. (92 points)
2017 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes - California, Sonoma Coast, Fort Ross - Seaview SRP: $30 Medium yellow color. Aromas of buttercream, graham crackers and cinnamon on top of yellow pears, yellow apples, topped in sea salt. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with a lovely, creamy texture. Lemon crème, kiwi, yellow apples, with nuanced honey, nougat and white tea flavors. A nice saline, floral finish. Lots of complexity, depth and vibrancy for a California Chardonnay at this price point. All stainless steel and old oak fermentation and aging, here. Value alert! (90 points)
Reds
2017 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $35 Medium ruby color. Expressive nose of cherries, strawberries, cranberries, with nuanced rose potpourri, clove and rhubarb. Medium-bodied on the palate, crisp acidity frames the wine so well, with dusty-light tannins and suave yet fresh fruit, cherries, raspberries, cranberry relish. Subtle earth, herbs, rose petal and black tea woven in well. No cola bomb here (just a hint of cola), this is fresh, bright, with lots of personality for a very reasonable price. Aged 10 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
2017 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley SRP: $38 Vibrant purple color. Inviting aromas of juicy plums, raspberries, candied black cherries, with lavender, cocoa, vanilla. Full-bodied, suave and velvety tannins, moderate acidity. Rich black cherries, raspberries and blueberries, tossed with violets, cocoa, mint, sweet pipe tobacco. Floral, coffee and vanilla elements linger on the finish. Complex and harmonious, this should open up nicely over the next few years. (90 points)
2017 Castello di Amorosa Zingaro - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $42 Vibrant purple color. Smells of sweet plums, blueberries and roasted figs, ripe and exotic, with clove, violets and coconut. Smooth and velvety on the palate, medium/low acidity, with suave blackberry, blueberry and roasted fig fruit. A good amount of smoky, vanilla, cedar and espresso tones, but they work. Ripe and forward, highly delicious. Aged 18 months in French oak. (88 points)
2015 Castello di Amorosa Sangiovese- California, Napa Valley SRP: $35 Deep ruby color. Aromas of candied cherries, juicy red plums, some smoky earth, green herbs and coffee notes. Full and smooth on the palate with surprising, pleasant acidity. Flavors of dark cherries and roasted fig show a jammy and ripe approach, but there are nuances of earth, violets, green herbs and light roast coffee blended in well. Fresh, fun, accessible, this is crowd-pleasing stuff that show some good balance and depth. Includes 6% Merlot, aged 18 months in French oak. (88 points)
SRP: $60 Vibrant purple color. Smooth, dark black cherry and currants, plums, vibrant but deep fruit, with notes of coffee, cocoa, vanilla, clove and roasted chestnut. Bold texture on the palate, well-built tannins but velvety edges, and moderating acidity team up for a large but balanced wine. Roasted fig, dark plum and black currant fruit blend well with pencil lead, scorched earth, clove, along with cedar and dark chocolate shavings. Warm, inviting, suave, showing well out of the gates but this should improve well over the next five years. Includes some Malbec, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 40% new oak. (91 points)
2016 Cardinale - California, Napa Valley SRP: $325 Lively purple color. Gorgeous depth of aromas here, with deep, inviting plums, black cherries and cassis, along with warm mulling spices, violets, coffee and loamy soil. On the palate, this has lots of depth, but the tannins have rounded edges, and the wine is brightened with fresh acidity, and the mouthfeel is fantastic. Pure cassis, blueberry and black cherry fruit, which is mixed well with complex notes of violets, coffee grounds, mocha, anise, tobacco and toffee. I love the fresh, crunchy aspect of this wine despite its hedonism and depth. Year-in, year-out, this wine rocks, and 2016 is another example. A blend from some 11 vineyards, this is Cabernet with 11% Merlot, aged 20 months in 93% new French oak. (96 points)
Sandwiched between Calistoga and Rutherford, the land that now falls in the St. Helena appellation has been at the center of Napa Valley winemaking history since the late 1800s.
In the St. Helena appellation, which dates back to 1995, there are some 6,800 acres of vines, the most of Napa’s AVAs, spread among some 400 different vineyards.
While my favorite Napa wines tend to come from some of the mountain appellations, I’ve loved many a St. Helena wine over the years. So, I was excited about the opportunity to taste several wines from different, respected St. Helena producers, many with long, storied histories.
The diversity of styles and price ranges can be significant. When buying Napa wines in particular, I always try to get a sense of the producer’s style or the vineyard, and which ones speak to me most, before putting down that hard-earned cash. While quality in the wines is high across the board, knowing your personal Napa wine preferences goes a long way.
I was excited to taste wines from producers I know and love like Corison, Ehlers, Pellet, as well as some others I wasn’t familiar with. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2018 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $32 Lemon colored. The nose pops with gooseberry, lemon, grapefruit, topped in cilantro, mint and bell pepper. Super bright on the palate, but it has some nice creamy texture. Lemon, lime and grapefruit, topped in cilantro and white pepper. A nervy, spicy, chalky aesthetic, too. Fermented in stainless steel, aged six months with weekly lees stirring. (88 points)
Gorgeous light purple color. The aromas are stunning, with chilled red fruits (cherry, currant, raspberry) with a host of complex non-fruit notes: violets, graphite, hints of tomato leaf and eucalyptus. Medium-bodied on the palate (13.1% alcohol), this has an effortless, balanced appeal. Structured but refined tannins, bright acidity, and waves of juicy but cool raspberry, black cherry and currant fruit. Complexities of violets, clove, graphite, paved road, and nuanced coffee and cedar. The complexity is lovely, and the mouthfeel and balance are so, so impressive. I’d love to see this in five to eight years, although it’s so expressive in its youth. (94 points)
2015 Martin & Croshaw Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon MC4 - California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $75 Light purple color This boasts a deep, sweet aromatic blend of currants, plums and blueberries, with smoky earth, sweet herbs and eucalyptus. Medium/full-bodied (14.2%) with medium acidity and fleshy tannins. This is ripe and blue-fruited, but nothing’s overdone here — there’s still a sense of precision and freshness that pervades the wine. Sweet coffee, dark chocolate and violet notes on the finish. This is built well for the cellar, as there’s a lot to unpack. Decant if drinking in the next few years. From a small one-acre vineyard. (90 points)
2016 Calafia La Reina - California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $80 Medium purple color. The nose boasts dark plums, sweet blackberries, a bit dense and dark, with chocolate-covered raisins and espresso. Full-bodied (15.5%) Chewy, fruity, forward texture on the palate with medium/low acidity and smooth tannins. Blueberries and sweet plum fruit mix well with cocoa, vanilla, and some herbaceous notes, too. Big, flavorful, accessible young but has the structure to age, too. 60% Cabernet, 22% Malbec, 18% Petit Verdot, co-fermented and aged in 40% new French oak. (89 points)
2017 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $65 Vibrant light purple color. Deep but bright aromas, with red and black currants. It opens up well to show violets, clove, warm clay and earth. Grippy tannins and vibrant acidity frame the wine well. Delicious, crunchy currants, smooth saucy plums, deep yet crisp and balanced fruit. Complex notes of violets, tobacco, earth, graphite, mineral, nuanced espresso and dark chocolate. For the price, this is such a complex and age-worthy Napa Cabernet. It needs five to seven years to show its best, but a good decant would make this accessible young as well. Includes 20% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)
2014 Pellet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Pellet Vineyard - California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $95 Dense purple color. A deep, exotic nose of currants and plums, with inviting leather, grilled herbs, black pepper, dark chocolate. Great concentration on the palate, with solid tannins, medium acidity, it is a young Cabernet but balanced well, with gorgeous texture. Black cherries and blueberry fruit, topped in lots of spicy herbs, graphite, earth, anise, cocoa powder. Nuanced cedar and chestnut elements round out the finish. A really solid Cabernet that you could bury for a decade easily, and it would be worth your while. Includes some Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged about 20 months in 80% new French oak. (92 points)
2017 Pellet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Henry's Reserve - California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $150 Bright purple color. Bold, deep nose of blueberry, blackberry, sweet plum, with violets, cocoa, sweet herbs. Juicy and dark on the palate with smooth tannins, and surprisingly fresh acidity. A creamy, vibrant feel with concentrated blueberry and blackberry fruit. Cocoa, vanilla, toffee and earth add complexity. A ripe, plush wine but shows freshness, too. A wine to age for at least three or four years, or give it a good decant. 76% Cabernet, 24% Merlot. One barrel made. (91 points)
