Black Kite Delivers Delicious California Pinot & Chardonnay

This week, I’m highlighting a California Pinot producer that I’ve enjoyed over the years: Black Kite Cellars.

Based in Mendocino’s Pinot capital of Anderson Valley, Black Kite produces a range of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from single vineyards in the Anderson Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands and Sonoma. Started in 2003, co-founders Rebecca and Tom Birdsall were inspired by a bike trip through Burgundy. And Rebecaa’s parents had purchased a plot of land near the Navarro River in Anderson Valley in 1995, which would become home to their estate vineyards. The wines are made by Jeff Gaffner, who worked at Chateau St. Jean and Arrowood.

The Pinots show a juicy, fruity, but floral style, each with unique signatures of it’s vineyard. The Chardonnays are mouthwatering and delicious, treated the same way in the cellar, spending 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. There’s a lot of nuance and complexity in these wines, and they’re worth exploring if you like California Pinot and Chardonnay.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Black Kite Chardonnay Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $62

Deep yellow color. Aromas of honey, ginger, with lemon zest, meringue, orange peel, apricot, sea salt, dandelion – all sorts of awesome things going on, here. Medium-bodied on the palate with a crisp, nervy, racy aesthetic that hits target. Plush apricot, lemon curd, orange peel and kiwi, delicious fruit, mixed with complex stony, mountain stream, mineral and limestone. Deep but brisk, age-worthy but open for business. This wine leaves me salivating. So, so good. (93 point)

2017 Black Kite Chardonnay Soberanes Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $48

Deep yellow color. The nose gushes with lime, papaya, topped in honey, cinnamon crumb cake, with sea salt and slate notes. Full-bodied but not heavy on the palate, creamy but bright, this is well-balanced and bright. Lime, kiwi, yellow apple fruit, open and expressive, but still brisk, with notes of honey, raw almond and gingerbread combining with oyster shell, saline and flinty tones. It’s all mixed together quite nicely. Very pretty Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay. (90 points)

2017 Black Kite Chardonnay Sierra Mar Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $48

Medium yellow color. Bright aromas of peaches, lemon curd, yellow apples, with honey butter, shaved ginger, peanut husk. Plush texture on the palate, but the wine is medium-bodied and shows vibrant acidity. Yellow apples and apricot, lemon bars, the fruit mixes with ginger and peanut brittle, but there are also these chalky, mineral, oyster shell undertones that keep the wine zesty and alive. Pretty, well-balanced, delicious stuff. (91 points)

Pinot Noir

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SR

P: $62

Aromas of dark cherries, red currants, with rose petals, black tea, clay, earth, tar. Full-bodied, medium acidity, with saucy black cherries, spiced cranberry jam, accented with spiced black tea, coffee, roasted chestnut, clove. A bold, darker style, but delicious, deep but still well-balanced. Aged 17 months in ½ new French oak, 14.8% alcohol. The fruit is sourced from 23 rows in this Petaluma Gap vineyard. (90 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Sierra Mar Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $45

Bright cherries and deeper plums on the nose, with smoky, earthy tones, clove, rose petals. Full-bodied, with suave, velvety tannins, medium acidity, this is bold but nicely balanced. Red cherries and raspberry fruit mix with rhubarb, tobacco, black tea, chai, rose petals. This is juicy but brisk with balanced, fresh elements in addition to the vibrant fruit and complex earthy, dusty notes. This should age nicely but has a lot to show right out of the bottle. Aged 17 months in ½ new French oak, 14.6% alcohol. A higher elevation vineyard, this is only the third Black Kite vintage from this site. (92 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Kite's Rest - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

SRP: $50

Ripe but cool cherries on the nose, juicy raspberries, spiced cranberry jam, with rose petals, rhubarb and white pepper. Full-bodied but fresh, with round tannins, chewy texture is balanced with fresh acidity. Lots of delicious, deep, but fresh raspberry, red plum, black cherry fruit. Elements of spiced tea, black pepper, cola, coffee, earth, add complexity. Very expressive and pretty now, but this could use some air or two to three years. Aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak, 14.5% alcohol. A blend of specific blocks from three other vineyards (Redwood’s Edge, Stony Terrace and River Turn. (91 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir River Turn - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

SRP: $62

Dep ruby color. Nose shows black cherries, currant jam, with cola, sarsaparilla, menthol, spicy grill rub. Full-bodied on the palate, but the acidity is quite vibrant, and the tannins and chewy and deep. Cool black cherry fruit, cranberry sauce, topped in spiced tea, wild herbs, cola and coffee. Fruity and deep, but nice earthy, soy, floral undertones, too. Ready to go, but this will open up nicely over the next few years. Aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Redwoods' Edge - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

SRP: $62

Juicy ruby color. Aromas of sweet red cherries, strawberry jam, with plenty of rhubarb, mint, black pepper, roasted chestnut, and black pepper. Medium/full-bodied on the palate with smooth but chewy tannins, a ripe, juicy feel, but moderate acidity. Flavors of sweet cherries and juicy plums mix, dark and juicy, but it also stays lively. Notes of rhubarb, coffee, cola and vanilla add complexity. Aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.  

Winning Wines from the Colorado Governor's Cup

For a few years now, I’ve been tasting the winning wines from Colorado’s Governor’s Cup, and this week, I’m focusing on the 2019 winners.

The Rocky Mountain State has some 150 wineries, which grow grapes in vineyards upwards of 4,000 feet in elevation. Riesling, Rhone varieties, Bordeaux blends, and some quirky, inventive stuff as well, the styles have been all over the map. Each year, I find a few that really pop out and make me think: there’s a lot more to explore here, especially on a trip (whenever we can go on trips again).

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2018 The Storm Cellar Mesa Dry Riesling - USA, Colorado, West Elks
SRP: $22
Pale lemon color. Bright and chalky nose, with lemon, orange peel, guava, mixed with white flowers, honeysuckle, tea and wet slate. The palate is dry, fresh, pure, it has a mountain stream sense of clarity, with lemon, quince, guava fruit. The flinty, mineral, lemon verbena notes add all sorts of complexity. Nervy, dry, talc-infused finish. Color me impressed with this Colorado Riesling, from their oldest Riesling vines in rocky soils. The value here is something else. (90 points)

2018 Carlson Vineyards NSFW - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $12
Pale lemon color. Super peachy on the nose with guava, lemon pith, honeysuckle. Fleshy texture, crisp acidity, this has a light and punchy style with lemon, green melon and lots of canned peach fruit. Some floral perfume and chamomile tea elements as well. Fun, fresh blend of Vidal Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer. (85 points)

2016 Plum Creek Cabernet Franc - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $23
Dark ruby color. The nose shows red cherries, plums and raspberries, with hefty doses of black pepper, herbal tea and dried rose petals. Full-bodied, smooth and velvety tannins, vibrant acidity, there’s a lively, balanced appeal to this wine with tangy cherry and tart plum fruit. Notes of cocoa, coffee, pepper, leather and rose petals add some complexity. Round, fresh, nice stuff! (87 points)

2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Ensemble - USA, Colorado
SRP: $22
Deep purple color. The nose shows tart black cherries, currants and plums. Dense and smoky elements with earth, violets and coffee grounds. Full-bodied, solid grip on the tannins, medium-plus acidity, things line up pretty well on the palate. Crunchy tart black cherries and dense fruit, I like the concentration and tanginess. Earthy, pencil shavings flavors, along with smoky oak and vanilla. Well-balanced, a bit oaky, but well-done Bordeaux blend. (87 points)

2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Graciano - USA, Colorado
SRP: $N/A
Deep purple color. Smells of cassis and black cherries, with tar, sweet pipe tobacco, mint and dark chocolate notes. Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy black cherries, some stemmy notes but they’re subtle. Notes of tar, smoky charcoal and spiced black tea round out this wine. Oaky but not too heavy, I’d like to see what this does in two or three years. (86 points)

2017 Colterris Petit Verdot - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Deep violet color. Aromas of black cherries and roasted figs with cocoa and violets. Vibrant acidity opens up the wine, with grippy tannins, but not too harsh. Sweet blueberry and fig, rich, jammy fruit, a saucy style. Coffee, coconut and dark chocolate flavors, the oak overpowers some elements but the wine still shows a balanced feel. Could definitely use some time to unwind. (86 points)

2016 Snowy Peaks Winery Petite Sirah - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $29
Dense purple color. Aromas of deep blueberry and fig paste, along with anise, violets and mocha. Deep but tart on the palate with black cherries, blueberry and roasted fig fruit, while the tannins show grip, and the acidity balances things out quite nicely. Elements of tobacco, campfire smoke, black tea, along with beefy, peppery notes. Bold but nuanced, this is a really solid Petite Sirah. From a 7,500-foot vineyard, aged 12 months in French oak. (88 points)

2017 Qutori Wines Syrah - USA, Colorado
SRP: $30
Bright purple color. Spicy as heck on the nose, with mesquite, tar, black olive and cigar smoke on top of black currants. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, bright acidity, with deep currants and sweet, jammy black cherries. Beefy, grilled herb and anise notes. Ripe but fresh, it is a bit hefty, but the acidity keeps it lively. Aged 18 months in a mix of Hungarian, French and American oak. (86 points)

2017 Red Fox Cellars Nebbiolo - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $38
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart cherries, raspberries, red apple, with spicy herbs and rhubarb notes. Full-bodied on the palate (15% alcohol) with solid grip and zesty acidity. Tangy cherries and red apple peel fruit are mixed with cocoa, black pepper, with notes of mushroom and tar. Nice tartness and concentration here, perhaps a few years will help this open up more. (86 points)

2018 Bonacquisti Wine Company Tempranillo - USA, Colorado
SRP: $N/A
Medium ruby color. Aromas of juicy raspberries, red cherries, sweet cranberry sauce, with violets, roses and cola. Medium/full-bodied with velvety tannins and really fresh acidity. Flavors of sweet plums, raspberry jam, black cherry cola, with elements of mint chewing tobacco, coffee, toffee and cedar. Fun stuff, fruit-forward but the acidity lifts this wine up and makes it easier to drink. (85 points)

N.V. Vino Salida Vermouth di Salida - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $19/375ml
Deep salmon color. Super spicy aromatics that pop, like anise, clove, cigar smoke, and white pepper over cranberry relish and candied apple peel. Full-bodied but fresh acidity sets the frame for wild raspberry and cranberry relish, topped in a hefty dose of clove, black licorice, some rhubarb, rose petals and black tea. This is really fun, sipping as an aperitif, or for use in cocktails. Brandy infused with all sorts of spices, blend with a base wine of Black Moscato, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, sweetened with Colorado honey. Unique, interesting stuff. (86 points)

2018 Whitewater Hill Moscato - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $N/A
Light yellow color. Juicy and sweet aromas of white peach, lychee, guava nectar, with floral spice and honey. Plush and sweet on the palate with medium acidity and plenty of plump white peach and lychee fruit, topped in honey and circus peanut candies. Yummy, fun, summertime sweet Moscato. (84 points)

N.V. Carlson Vineyards Cherry - USA, Colorado
SRP: $N/A
Color like cherry liqueur and bourbon, really cool. Ripe cherries and raspberries on the nose with a streak of cinnamon sticks, mint and spiced tea. Plush texture, vibrant acidity keeps the sweetness in balance. This shows tangy cherry and stewed strawberry fruit, with a big punch of cinnamon and clove. Spicy, juicy – I could see using this in some cocktails. From Montmorency cherries. I’m no fruit wine fan, but this is pretty solid. (84 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

International Wines for Pandemic Times

The coronavirus pandemic is causing havoc the world over. While tasting wines from Italy, Spain, the United States, I can’t help think of how all these places are being upended by this pandemic. I hope you all are staying safe, taking care of yourselves and each other, and also enjoying some good wine and food at home. 

I’ve been trying to cook as much vegetables as I can during these past two weeks of lockdown, and I’ve found myself playing around with lots of Indian and Moroccan spices. Luckily, I had two Pinot Blancs from Alsace to sample that also work really well with the dishes I’ve been slinging. Alsace is where I first fell in love with wine, and it is vibrant, exciting, inexpensive wines like the two in this report that keep me coming back.

This report also includes two wines from Fournier, in Ribera del Duero, which was purchased by Gonzalez Byass in 2019.

And from the U.S. come several Oregon and Washington wines. I’ve been hurling praise at Applegate Valley’s Troon wines for years now. And while I tend to personally enjoy their whites more, these Tannat-based reds are crisp, crunchy and juicy in a way that’s more accessible than most Tannats that I’ve tasted.

Tamarack Cellars offers a whole lot of Washington red goodness for less than $30, and Owen Roe’s wines also make an appearance.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Meyer-Fonné Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Alsace
SRP: $22 

Medium yellow color. The nose has this waxy, honeyed aspect, contrasted with this airy, field of wildflower and clover element, on top of white peach and nectarine. Deep texture, lovely honeyed feel, but lively acidity keeps it moving forward. Apricot, nectarine and papaya fruit blend well with honeysuckle, verbena, and these underlying slate and mineral tones. Round but fresh, this should show some interesting characteristics with age. From granite soils in Katzenthal. (90 points)

2017 Emile Beyer Pinot Blanc Tradition - France, Alsace
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose bursts with peaches, green melon, but also spicy, floral notes of honeysuckle, mint and baby’s breath. Dry and fresh on the palate, this has a waxy, rich texture, but the acidity moderates it well. Kiwi, peach and mango fruit, whipped with honey, white tea, seashells and minerals. There’s a lot on offer here, and a lot of balance between depth and freshness. From clay and limestone soils in Eguisheim. (90 points)

2017 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco Riserva Benefizio - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Nose of green apples, kiwi, a pleasant mash-up of tennis ball, perfume, flowers, honey and chalk dust. Deep texture on the palate, full-bodied (14.5%) but bright acidity keeps it fresh. Yellow plums, cantaloupe and lemon crème fruit mixes well with whipped butter, toasted nuts, a creamy but balanced wine with underlying flinty mineral tones. Fermented in 50% new French oak with lees aging for 10 months. For fans of richer, creamier style, this Chardonnay also sports freshness and liveliness, though. (89 points)

2016 Fournier Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of juicy raspberries, sweet red cherries and crunchy red plums, with roses, some anise. Suave and velvety on the palate with vibrant acidity and a balanced, fresh appeal, with juicy raspberries and strawberries. Notes of cocoa, rose petals, mint, espresso, there’s a lot going on here, but it’s accessible and lively, too. (88 points)

2014 Fournier Ribera del Duero Reserva - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Nose shows dark, deep blackberry, along with smoky charcoal, coffee, dark chocolate and anise. Full-bodied, solid grip on the tannins, medium acidity, it is concentrated but not too dense. Deep blueberry and cassis fruit mixes with graphite, mineral and charcoal, with accents of campfire, espresso, dark chocolate. Deep and worthy of cellar time, but it’s has some fun, fresh appeal, too. (90 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $65 

Bright violet color. Such vibrant aromas, like chilled plums and black currants, laced with violets, clove, mesquite, leather, warm clay. Medium-bodied on the palate (13.7% alcohol), with bright, tangy acidity and velvety tannins. Juicy plums, raspberries and black cherries, tangy, concentrated fruit, mixed with complex mesquite, graphite, cocoa, violet petals, earth. Lovely, fresh, accessible, but this could improve significantly over the next few years. Gorgeous stuff. 53% Tannat, 47% Malbec, co-fermented. (92 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Tannat Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Delightfully spicy on the nose, with paprika, pepper, clove, on top of some blackberry and tangy cassis fruit, with dried rose petals and earthy, tar notes. Medium/full-bodied, solid grip but no harsh edges on the tannins – and the acid sings. Dark cherries, blackberries, juicy, crunchy fruit, mixed with potting soil, paved road, graphite, anise and light roast coffee notes. Deep and dark but crunchy and alive as well, this should do well with four or five years of cellaring. (91 points)

2016 Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Medium purple color. Smells like black cherries, sweet blueberries, saucy plums, with smoky earth, barbecue sauce, clove, dark chocolate. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins, moderate acidity, a pleasantly chewy texture. Plummy, saucy cherry fruit, mixed with barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, some coffee, cedar and clove. Fun and fresh but this shows a lot of complexity for the price. A kitchen sink blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Mourvedre, Grenache, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Counoise, aged in a mix of 40% new French, American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)

2017 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Deep, dark aromas that take some time to get going, but then it’s all about currants, plums, earth, clay, soy, clove – intriguing stuff. Full, plush, smooth tannins and fresh acidity meet for a well-balanced wine. Fresh currants and black cherries, laced with earth, pepper, violets, clove, soy and tobacco. Nuanced cocoa and cedar woven in well. Delicious now, but this could really use three or four years to show its best. Serious value here. All Cabernet Franc sourced from Weinbau, Ciel du Cheval and Tapteil Vineyards, aged in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Owen Roe Red Wine Yakima Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $28
Light purple color. Smells like sweet red currants, black cherries, spiced cranberry relish, with violets, black tea, sweet cocoa. Full but suave on the palate, this is smooth but mouth-filling, deep but has a fresh appeal, too. Currants and plums, topped in violets, tobacco, eucalyptus, graphite. Chewy, deep feel, luscious but shows vibrancy and freshness. 59% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, sourced from Red Willow, Union Gap and DuBrul Vineyards. (90 points)

2018 Owen Roe Sinister Hand - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $27
Light purple color. Nose of candied cherries, candied red apples, juicy, fruity, purple, with sweet tea, cola, some grilled herbs. Full but not heavy, soft/medium tannins, moderate acidity, this shows plenty of juicy red and purple fruits. I get notes of smoky cedar, cola, roses, cranberry relish. Notes of spiced tea, rose petals, barbecue sauce. Fun, early-drinking stuff that should go quickly at cookout parties. 55% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsault. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.