In these times of pandemic and uncertainty, I’ve found some respite in reading travel books. Being stuck at home for months on end, I have spent a lot of time letting my mind wander as I plan and lust for travel in for post-pandemic times.
As a lover of South Africa and its wines, I was excited to read through Jim Clarke’s new book “The Wines of South Africa.” It has now been six years since my first and only trip to South Africa, where I spent three weeks checking out my three favorite things: waves, wine and wildlife. While reading Jim’s helpful book, I found myself revisiting so many amazing memories, and wishing to make more during future South Africa trips.
Jim Clarke is a writer, educator and all-around South African wine guru. He first traveled to South Africa in 2006, one what would be one of many trips as he delved into the people and places in this dynamic wine scene. Since 2013, he has worked as U.S. marketing manager for Wines of South Africa, the trade group that organizes and supports exports of South African wine. I’ve met Jim at trade events over the years — he always in his dapper fedora hat, me always in my newsie-style cap — and he is such a knowledgeable, personable, genuine guy, and I’m not sure there’s anyone better to write this book.
In the introduction, Clarke reflects on being impressed with the diversity and potential of the South African wine scene during his first trip: “this was not simply an emerging wine industry, but an industry reborn.”
“Since around 2008, more and more producers have been allowing the country’s terroir to represent itself unmasked and without affectation,” Clarke writes. “The peaks of South African wine are higher, and the clumsy wines of the past are bygones, or at least as rare as they are in other modernized wine-producing countries.”
The first chunk of the book is a fascinating history of winemaking in South Africa. It is such a complex and complicated history, that I won’t attempt to summarize portions of it here. Suffice it to say, from 1659 onward, Clarke offers a lot to learn, and he does a great job weaving this history into the complex issues facing contemporary South Africa.
In a section devoted to “transformation and other contemporary issues,” Clarke is frank and sensitive in his discussion of the lasting effects of racism and apartheid on the wine industry. He writes of South African winemaking being “deeply tied together with the country’s broader history, which embodies both a pioneering spirit and deeply colonial, racist attitudes and policies,” and highlights the importance of an honest discussion of the country’s past in order to make change and progress.
The section on the “structures, regulations and institutions of South African wine” is a helpful analysis of the complexities and unique elements of the country’s wine industry. Far more than a dry recitation of rules, Clarke provides a lot of details that would be helpful for folks in the trade.
I really geeked out on the geography and climate portion of the book, which is detailed and great for reference. The vast differences in regional topography, soil and climates in South Africa has long fascinated me, and it makes for interesting reading.
After a summary of the leading grape varieties and wine styles, Clarke moves into profiles of different winegrowing regions. Unlike a lot of straight-up reference books or tourist guides, Clarke this isn’t an exhaustive list of producers or places to visit. For each region, he summarizes what makes the region unique, how its history relates to the current wine scene, and highlights some of the major players. It was a lot of fun revisiting all of my favorite producers, but I also learned a lot and heard many producers for the first time. If you’re looking to dig further into South African wines and, like me, prefer having something tangible to refer to – this paperback is a solid.
South African wine has been on a long, upward hike toward more global recognition, and this book chronicles how we got to this point in the life of South African wine. It’s definitely worth a read for any fans, anyone planning travel, or anyone in the wine trade who wants to hone their knowledge on South Africa’s awesome wines.
“The Wines of South Africa” by Jim Clarke U.S. paperback price: $39.95. Publisher: Infinite Ideas Available at Amazon Books and Barnes & Noble Released July 2020
This week I’m back with another roundup of wines from California, including some new-to-me producers, and some I’ve known and loved for many years.
In the latter category, Smith Madrone’s new Chardonnay and Cab are true to their roots, delivering complex, intriguing, delicious Spring Mountain wines whose price points still baffle me.
Louis Martini’s iconic Monte Rosso vineyard, and their Lot 1 Cabernet, are the type of wines I’d want to cellar or enjoy some cold evening this winter.
St. Helena’s Battuello comes through with some interesting offerings from their estate vineyards, which dates back five generations, when Matteo Battuello established it in 1909. The two Valdiguiés that are so delicious, and their Petit Verdot is a stunner.
A delicious, screaming value of a Grenache Blanc and some Sauvignon Blancs round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Whites and Rosés
2019 Rombauer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California SRP: $24 Light yellow color. Aromas boast lemon, apricot, green apples, with some green onion, mint and honeysuckle as well. Fleshy texture on the palate, nice creaminess with racy acidity, well-focused. A fruit salad of ruby red grapefruit, lemon slices, white peach, with some chalky, rocky, tones. Notes of honeysuckle, mint and sea salt. Juicy and fun but expressive and fresh as well. 64% Napa fruit, the rest from Sonoma, fermented mostly in stainless steel with some old French oak and concrete. (89 points)
2019 Stonestreet Sauvignon Blanc Cougar Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley SRP: $35 Light yellow color. Aromas of grapefruit, lemon and papaya with mountain stream, whipped honey and white flowers. Crisp but creamy on the palate with a stony, bright feel that balances well with juicy, fleshy texture, but it stays balanced throughout. Yellow plums, papaya, lime, mixed with chalk, mineral undertones and creamy, honeyed elements. A lot going on here, sort of like a bunch of different SB styles rolled into one, and it is done really well. (91 points)
2018 La Pelle Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley SRP: $45 Pale lemon color. Crunchy, inviting aromas of green and yellow apples, topped in lemongrass, mint, and a good dose of sea salt. Precision guides the palate; this is crisp, crunchy, with slight creamy tones and solid depth. Lemon, green apple and kiwi fruit blends well with saline, chalk, white floral tones. Lovely depth, minerality, focus. No gimmicks here, just bright, clear, complex, beautiful Napa Sauvignon Blanc. (92 points)
2018 Priest Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley SRP: $22 A fascinating pale copper color. So bright on the nose, with this burst of lime, kiwi and green apple, met with sliced cucumber, flower stems, oyster shells and brine, chalk dust. Gorgeous texture on the palate, lush but precise, with focused acidity on a medium/full-bodied frame. Crunchy green apples, limes, kiwi and orange peel – such crisp and delicious fruit. Mouthwatering and vibrant, with notes of saline, crushed shells, floral perfume, white tea. This is rocking, especially if you’ve tired of heavier California white Rhone wines. From a 1,250-foot elevation vineyard all stainless steel, native yeasts and eight months of lees aging. For $22? Absurd. (91 points)
2018 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone SRP: $30 Medium yellow color. Delightful nose of lemon curd, orange peel, crunchy apricot, along with notes of peanut shell, white tea, chalk dust, perfume and honey. On the palate, this shows a plump but tangy fruit (nectarine, lemon, apricot) on a frame of precise, focused acidity. Pretty notes of honey, almond skin, hay and ginger complement the stony mineral and sea salt notes. Pure, vibrant, complex – it really doesn’t get much better for a California Chardonnay at this price point. (89 points)
2018 Ram's Gate Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $46 Medium yellow with a buttery, honeyed nose, along with papaya, lemon curd, yellow apples, with some dandelion and honeysuckle. Plush and juicy on the palate, medium acidity, the fruit shows a mix of yellow apples, pineapple, lemon bars, mixed with components of honey, graham cracker, but also expressive chalky, river rock tones. Fun stuff, punchy, vibrant style that shows solid complexity, too. 25% maloactic fermentation, aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (89 points)
2018 Ram's Gate Chardonnay El Diablo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $70 Rich yellow color. Inviting nose of yellow apples, baked plums, honeycomb, graham crackers, walnut shell, also notes of hay and chalk. Plush texture on the palate, plump but lovely freshness, with golden apples, apricot and pear fruit. Notes of honey, nougat, candied ginger mix with underlying mineral and seashell notes. Lush but complex and very pretty. 38% maloactic fermentation, aged 11 months in 35% new French oak. (91 points)
2017 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District SRP: $40 Deep yellow color. Inviting, complex aromas of apple butter, lemon curd, grapefruit zesty, topped in notes of honey, graham cracker, sea salt and ginger. Harmonious, complex nose for sure. Rich texture on the palate, the creaminess is matched by this racy, salty aesthetic. Lemon curd, yellow apple and apricot fruit meld well with white tea, graham cracker and ginger, along with these stony, mineral, mountain stream elements. Consistently, such an overperforming Chardonnay that screams value, and the 2017 is a really expressive, vibrant iteration. Aged 10 months in 85% new French oak. (94 points)
2018 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $35 Deep yellow color. Plump aromas of yellow apples and pears, topped in almond, peanut skin, honey, with some chalk dust and floral perfume. Juicy and ripe but the acidity is delightful and precise, framing the wine well and keeping it fresh, while the waves of yellow apple and lemon curd fruit roll in. Has deep, nutty, graham cracker, honeyed tones, but also fresh elements of mountain stream and yellow flowers. Lots of precision and complexity here for the price. Aged eight months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)
2019 Notre Vue Chardonnay Musqué - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $36 Light yellow color. The nose starts with a kick of mint and sliced cucumber, with green apples, lemon and kiwi, and lots of floral tones. Creamy texture meets crisp acidity on the palate, with green apples, white peaches and limes. Floral and bright but lovely texture, and notes of chalk, celery seed, sliced cucumber. Bright and inviting, this rides a nice line, a lighter, nuanced style. (89 points)
2019 Notre Vue GSM Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill SRP: $29 Vibrant salmon color. Aromas of hay, honeysuckle, wildflowers and mint on top of gushing peach and honeydew fruit – so inviting. Plush texture meets rushing acidity on the palate, really well-balanced with chunks of melon and peach. Complex notes of cut flower stems, sea salt, punchy but also crisp and bright throughout. A spicy, inviting, floral finish – very impressive. (90 points)
2019 Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $28 Juicy strawberry color. The nose shows raspberries, white cherries, red apple, watermelon rind, along with rhubarb and celery seed. Juicy and ripe on the palate, but it shows crisp and focused acidity, along with a crushable, delicious feel. Mint, flinty, white pepper and magnolia tones add complexity. Fun and delicious but shows solid complexity and depth. (90 points)
Reds
2018 Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $45 Vibrant purple color. Fruity, fun but exciting aromas of cherries, plums, violets, some cinnamon and earth tones. Juicy and smooth on the palate, a velvety/light tannic feel mixes with vibrant acidity. Juicy red cherries and wild blackberries mix with elements of violets, pepper, anise, also some graphite, milk chocolate and coffee. This is a fun but complex and exotic Valdiguié worth seeking out. (91 points)
2017 Battuello Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena SRP: $90 Deep purple color. Saucy, deep aromas with plums, jammy blackberries, with roasted coffee, vanilla, anise, mocha, deep, sweet earth. Full-bodied, rich with chewy tannins and moderate acidity. Plummy, saucy, deep blueberries and sweet blackberries. Notes of mocha, vanilla, charcoal and clove add complexity. A big but charming Cab that has complexities to uncover in the decanter or a few years in the cellar. (89 points)
SRP: $70 Dark purple color. The nose is deep and saucy with blackberries and roasted fig, lots of graphite, smoky charcoal, black pepper, with violets and clove. Full-bodied on the palate with solid, grippy tannins but the acidity is vibrant and keeps the wine balanced. Dark plums, blackberries and roasted figs (rich but vibrant fruit) mixed with complex elements of rocky earth, anise, black pepper, with nuanced mocha and caramel tones. Complex, delicious, this is one to age or crack around a campfire with grilled steaks. (91 points)
2018 Banshee Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County SRP: $28 Deep ruby color. Aromas of jammy cherries, cool, chilled blackberry, along with cola, roses, fallen leaves and potting soil – quite a bit going on here. Juicy and fresh on the palate, this is a medium-bodied Pinot with smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Red and black cherry fruit, raspberry jam, topped in cola, light roast coffee, roses and clove, even some leathery, minty, earthy accents. Yummy but crisp, accessible and fan-friendly but shows complexity and value as well. (88 points)
2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley SRP: $125 Light purple color. Gorgeous, expressive, vibrant aromas of anise, tobacco, violets, warm clay and cocoa, over top of saucy plums and black cherries. Full-bodied on the palate with earthy, dusty tannins, showing grip but accessibility, with moderating acidity – it’s big but balanced really well. Suave, complex fruit (currants, black cherries and plums) mix with notes of tobacco, mint, dark chocolate, graphite, minerals, violets. Shows structure, freshness and aging potential, but beautiful already. It’s great to see this wine continue to excel. All Monte Rosso fruit, includes 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, aged 26 months in a mix of French oak (75% new) and American oak (19% new). (94 points)
2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 - USA, California, Napa Valley SRP: $250 Vibrant purple color. Suave, deep aromas of blackberries, black currants, roasted fig, laced with tobacco, leather, pencil shavings, cocoa – takes time and air to really bring out the aromatic complexities, but there’s a ton in here. Full-bodied, solid tannins for aging but no harsh edges, the acidity is lovely and fresh. A deep, tangy core of black cherries, red and black currants, plum skins, mixed with delicious elements of tobacco, leather, cigar shop, some black pepper and clay. Notes of stony, mineral and graphite blend with cocoa and vanilla. Complex, age-worthy but vibrant, age this for five to 10 years or give it a solid decant. 100% Cabernet aged 21 months in 93% new French oak. (94 points)
2016 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District SRP: $58 Medium purple color. Aromas show tart but deep currants and black cherries, with lots of earthy, spicy complexity (tobacco, paved road, warm clay, graphite) with dark chocolate and espresso notes. Full but nuanced on the palate, well-built, grippy but refined tannins support juicy, tart red and black currant, and the balance between all these elements is lovely. Notes of leather, black pepper, tobacco leaf, mint, along with charcoal, vanilla and cedar nuances. Delicious, pretty, packs complexity and nuance. Long life ahead for this beautiful Cab. Includes a combined 10% Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is aged 19 months in 45% new French oak. (93 points)
Happy Friday, and I hope, if you’re reading this, you are healthy and well. This week, I have a mix of wines from two of my favorite U.S. states.
I’ve written a lot about Arizona wines in the past, since I’ve been visiting the state to hike and visit family for the past 10 years or so. The Arizona wine scene is diverse, and my favorites tend to be hard to find. But Aridus, based in the high-elevation region of Willcox, makes more widely-available wines that offer a good introduction to what the state has to offer.
Living in DC, I will admit my local bias: I am passionate about the land and wines of the commonwealth of Virginia. I recently caught up for a virtual chat with Virginia wine guru Frank Morgan, and four producers to taste and talk about what’s going on in Virginia wine these days. If you haven’t tried Virginia Petit Manseng or Petit Verdot, and are up for venturing out into new territory, there are two excellent examples in this report.
There’s also a lonely Oregon wine in this report as well.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Aridus Chardonnay Barrel Select - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley SRP: $47 Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd and bruised pear with salted peanut, pecans, whipped butter. Plump texture on a medium-bodied frame with balanced acid and notes of nougat, honeycomb, butterscotch and white tea to mix with the apricot and yellow apple fruit. A fun, crowd-friendly style. (86 points)
2016 Aridus Grenache - USA, Arizona, Cochise County SRP: $40 Deep raspberry color. Nose shows melted red licorice with spicy red currants and raspberries, topped in smoky earth, a dry rub of paprika, pepper and red pepper flakes. On the palate, this is a medium/full-bodied wine with a juicy and fun appeal, low tannins, medium/low acidity. Cherries and raspberries mix with pepper, clove, paprika and rose petals. Ripe but nuanced. Showing freshness and spiciness – solid introduction to Arizona’s take on Rhone varieties. Includes 10% Graciano, aged 18 months in oak. (88 points)
2017 Aridus Tempranillo - USA, Arizona SRP: $40 Deep purple color. Aromas show jams of sweet raspberries and red cherries, along with some tobacco, smoky earth, warm clay and mesquite smoke. Plush texture on a medium-bodied palate with some moderate acidity for balance, showing a smooth, chewy but fresh approach. Jammy raspberry and plum fruit mixed with notes of oregano, creosote, dusty earth. Ripe and fun, but fresh and shows savory complexity – a killer grill wine that could also age for a few. (88 points)
2017 Aridus Petite Sirah - USA, Arizona, Cochise County SRP: $39 Dark purple color. On the nose, I get blackberry, roasted figs, with black pepper, pine, wild herb tones. Full-bodied, the tannins have this chewy feel and medium/low acidity holds it together. The blackberry and black currant fruit mixes well with notes of tar, dark chocolate, black tea and some mineral, rocky tones and cedar. If you’re a Petite Sirah fan, and interested in Arizona wines, you have to check this one out. Aged in 90% new oak for 28 months. (88 points)
2018 Acrobat Winery Pinot Gris - USA, Oregon SRP: $15 Light yellow, copper-tinged color. Perfumed aromas of dandelion and magnolia petals, with cucumber slices, over top white peach and kiwi fruit. Texture is juicy and ripe with pleasantly balanced, bright acidity. Lemon and white peach fruit blend with verbena, dandelion, some chalky, flinty tones. Quite complex and balanced for a wine at this price point. Solid value! (88 points)
2018 Narmada Winery Mom - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Rappahannock County SRP: $21 Light yellow color. Bright aromas of lemons and peaches and lots of tropical flowers, topped with nettle and sea salt notes. Juicy chunks of pineapple, peach and papaya on the palate, but this is a focused wine with precise acidity. The 1.7% residual sugar is woven in really well, and the acidity keeps this zesty and fresh. Lots of floral complexity, verbena, mint, sea salt. Really interesting stuff, worth checking out, especially for the price. It made me think of a blend between Alsace and Alto Adige white wines. A stainless steel blend of Vidal Blanc, Chardonel and Chardonnay. (88 points)
SRP: $30 Light gold color. Delicious, inviting nose of white peaches, guava, limes, along with honey, white flowers and a cool kick of sea salt and chalk dust. Plump texture but the acidity is focused and sharp, mixed with juicy nectarines, peaches and lemons. I get complex elements of almond skin, honeyed green tea, with rushing minerals and chalk dust. Deep but precise, complex but gluggable, this is a beautiful Petit Manseng that should age nicely. (90 points)
2018 Blenheim Vineyards Cabernet Franc - USA, Virginia SRP: $22 Vibrant purple color. Juicy, fresh aromas of plums, tangy blackberries and black cherries, with smoky, earthy tones, anise and magic marker. Accessible on the palate with dusty tannins and fresh acidity, with a core of tangy black cherry and blackberry fruit. Notes of violets, tobacco, mint mix with graphite and cedar. Tangy, fresh, but enough depth, too. Delicious and a solid value, reliable Virginia Cab Franc. Sourced from two sites in Shenandoah and Southern Virginia. Aged nine months in 90% French and 10% American oak. (88 points)
2017 Williamsburg Winery Petit Verdot Reserve - USA, Virginia SRP: $49 Vibrant purple color. Nose shows tart dark currants and plums, saucy black cherries, with smoky, graphite, charcoal tones, cocoa powder and some leather, too. Vibrant acidity meet grippy tannins, and the balance is impressive. The fruit is a warm, tart compote of blackberry and black currant, tossed with oregano, anise, roasted coffee, cocoa, cedar and graphite. Lovely now but this deserves some time in the cellar (four to six or so). All Petit Verdot, aged in 40% new French oak. (90 points)
