Eden Rift's Chardonnays and Pinots Shine

If you like your California Pinot and Chardonnay bright, complex and nuanced, you may want to pay attention to this week’s offerings from Eden Rift.

This 120-acre estate in the Cienega Valley AVA has been continuously producing grapes since the late 1800s. Under many different owners, the Hollister-area ranch has a storied history, from producing 100,000 gallons of wine a year in 1916 trying to stay afloat during Prohibition by selling grapes to the church for sacramental wine.

In 2016, the estate was purchased by Christian Pillsbury, a wine pro who holds a WSET Diploma and headed up Asia Pacific for Coravin. Hollister local Cory Waller, who has worked at neighboring Calera and others, works as winemaker. In the cellar, these wines undergo native yeast fermentation, barrel fermentation, nuanced use of new oak, and the alcohol levels are moderate (usually a bit under 14%).

If I had to briefly sum up the aesthetic of these wines up: they’re precise, clear and highly memorable, like a wildlife photograph framed just right and taken in wonderful focus. This is the first time I’ve tasted these wines, but it won’t be the last. In this report, I taste through their 2018 offerings, which include three Chardonnays and Pinots apiece, an Estate, a Reserve, and a Terraces.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. Dig in below.

2018 Eden Rift Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $42
Aromas boast yellow pears, lemon crème pie, orange marmalade, with honey, chalk dust and some gingerbread. Precise acidity frames the wine well, generous, round texture offers depth, with fresh, ripe yellow apples, key lime pie and glazed pear. Mineral, chalk and sea salt tones blend well with nuanced gingerbread and whipped honey. Crisp, balanced finish. Fermented and aged 11 months in 18% new French oak. (91 points)

2018 Eden Rift Chardonnay Terraces -­ USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $54
Lovely aromas of yellow apples, orange peel and lemon curd, topped in sea salt, chalk, ginger, honeycomb and peanut shell. Delightfully balanced with creamy texture but bright acidity. Lemon crème, orange peels and kiwi fruit, mixes with hay, chalk, sea salt and crunchy, limestoney, minerals. Notes of shaved ginger, gingerbread and graham cracker add complexity. Generous but lively and focused. From a single 1.6-acre vineyard. (92 points)

2018 Eden Rift Chardonnay Estate Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $64
Pure, inviting aromas, with deep lemon tones, yellow apples, with honey, almond and chalk dust. Medium-bodied frame, deeply textured with pleasant creaminess but zesty acidity and a salty, precise, mineral-infused feel. Limes, lemons and nectarine mix with honey, peanut shell, and these lovely mountain stream and oyster shell tones. Such focus and vibrancy in this wine. Several barrels from one block of Calera clone, fermented and aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (93 points)

2018 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $64
Inviting aromas of plums and cherries, laced with complex earth, tobacco, clove, rose petals, white pepper, a lot going on here. The acidity here is so fresh and inviting, medium-bodied, with fine tannins. Juicy red cherry and strawberry fruit; this is a precise, zingy and focused wine. Complex harmonies of tilled soil, light roast coffee, tobacco, rose petals, floral perfume. Nuanced, balanced, delicious, this is ready to go but would do well with a few years in the cellar. About a third whole-cluster fermentation. (91 points)

2018 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Terraces - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $64
On the nose, I get bright raspberries and some strawberry, with a bright and airy feel. Medium-bodied, dusty-chalky tannins, the acidity is bright. Tangy cranberry and cherry fruit (ripe but nice and crunchy, too) with attractive mint, rose petal and oregano. Cola, coffee, clay, I could go on, but I am just vibing with this fresh, juicy, balanced, elegant wine. I’d love to age this for four to five and see where it’s headed. 69% whole cluster, aged 17 months in French oak. (94 points)

2018 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Estate Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $72
Vibrant cherries, red plums and bright raspberries on the nose, along with cola, toffee, some white pepper, sweet pipe tobacco and rose petals. Deep texture, structured tannins offer grip but the round edges make this accessible, and the acidity is lively, offering a fresh, balanced appeal. Cherries and raspberry fruit meld with pepper, tobacco, clay, potting soil, rose petals. Nuanced cola and toffee elements. This could use a good amount of air or a few years, but a lot to unpack in here. 50% whole cluster fermented, aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Exciting, Value-Driven Wines from Portugal and Spain

Long-time readers may have heard me sing praises of wines from Portugal’s Alentejo region, and, well, I’m here to do it again. There’s a nice mix of the region’s signature saucy, spicy reds that will keep you warm and cozy during winter.

Alentejo’s Esporão produces a dizzying array of wines. In this report, I have their entry-level, widely-available Monte Velho wines, which I think are some of the best values around. I also tasted three Vinho Verdes. I love those wines when I’m sitting at a café eating shellfish in Portugal, but they’re usually (by design), simple wines. Thee three in this report are something else entirely.

I enjoy vibrant, white wines year-round, and I have a few in this report that bring a crisp, summery feel to the colder, darker months. Two vibrant white Riojas, offer a lot of complexity, value and personality.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Esporão Quinta do Ameal Vinho Verde “Bico Amarelo” - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $12
Light yellow color. Aromas pop with peaches, lemons, limes, with daisies, dandelion and honey, shows depth along with the freshness. Racy, fresh and vibrant on the palate, this shows a textural depth and complexity that I don’t get often from Vinho Verde a lot. Complex peaches, lemon and quince, combined with pristine chalk, minerals and sea salt, topped in white flowers. The depth and focus are impressive, and one of the more memorable Vinho Verdes I’ve tried. Loureiro, Alvarinho and Avesso. I was shocked when I saw this price point – excellent and inexpensive. Aww, yeah. (91 points)

2019 Esporão Quinta do Ameal Vinho Verde “Loureiro” - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. The nose shows chalk dust, saline, floral perfume, along with limes, pineapple and yellow plums. Precise acid on a racy frame, with pineapple and lime fruit, and some creamy depth that adds to the mouthfeel. Notes of chalk, potpourri and mint add complexity. All Loureiro from the Lima subregion, this has precision and complexity worth seeking out. (90 points)

2019 Esporão Quinta do Ameal Vinho Verde “Solo Unico” - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $28
Deep straw color. Aromas of lemons, limes, green melon rind, new tennis ball, with honeysuckle and sea spray. Brisk and focused on the palate, a prickly and lively feel, with lemon, quince and green apple fruit. Notes of lemon verbena, daisies and honey mix with sea salt and crushed chalk. Lovely freshness and solid depth as well. All Loureiro aged on the lees for seven months, fermented in a mix of stainless steel and concrete eggs. (90 points)

2019 Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $10
Rich yellow color. Fresh aromas of chalk, ocean spray in river stones, over top of richer honeyed tones, yellow pears and apricots. Precise acidity frames the well this richly-textured wine, showing balance, freshness and delicious fruit (lemon, peach, apricot). The fruit is tossed with honey, raw almond, chalk and crushed shells, notes of ginger and saltine cracker. Beautiful stuff, a perennial screaming value, case buy kind of wine. A blend of 40% Antao Vaz, 40% Roupeiro, 20% Perrum. (90 points)

2019 Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $10
Light purple color. Aromas of juicy cherries, raspberries and plums, along with mocha, sweet roses and mesquite. Medium-bodied, light, dusty tannins, and juicy, accessible raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit. Laced with smoky earth, sweet clove, cocoa and violets. Vibrant, yummy, accessible, this is inexpensive but has a lot of personality. A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and Syrah. (87 points)

2015 Adega Cooperativa de Borba Adega de Borba Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $18
Vibrant purple. Jammy, ripe nose of black cherries and plum cake topped in milk chocolate, this is hedonistic but also spicy and smoky. Medium-bodied, has surprising acidity to help balance the plums, saucy cherries and blackberries. Notes of tar, smoky earth, anise, charcoal and dark chocolate add complexity. Tobacco and mint on the finish. A ripe, juicy, fan-friendly blend of Trincadeira, Alicante, Aragonez and Castelao. (87 points)

2014 Carmim Reguengos Garrafeira dos Sócios -­ Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Reguengos
SRP: $48
Light purple color. Aromas of mulled cherries and plums mix with these notes of grilled beef, cracked black pepper, olives, roasted red peppers and tobacco – lovely! Full-bodied, structured but refined tannins, moderate acidity, this is framed well and sports delicious, tangy plums and black cherries. The non-fruit flavors pop: tilled soil, graphite, roasted chestnut, anise. Still plenty of aging time ahead of it, and it opens up really well with air, and goes to show how Alentejo Alicante can age. Includes 20% Touriga Nacional and 15% Tinta Caiada. (91 points)

2017 Herdade de São Miguel Colheita Seleccionada - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $15
Deep purple color. Nose shows deep tones of baked figs, blueberry jam, with cocoa, mint and tobacco. Medium/full-bodied with nice grip, velvety edges to the tannins, medium acidity. Tart black cherries and blackberry compote, topped in roasted coffee, grilled herbs, violets and clove. Has nice structure, depth, even ageability, which is really impressive given the price point. Alicante Bouschet with Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. (88 points)

2015 Adega da Cartuxa Évora Cartuxa - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Évora
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. The nose sports plums, blackberries and black cherries with an inviting mix of violets, tar, clove, warm clay and black tea. Medium-bodied with refined tannins that offer structure, while medium acidity gives freshness. Tart blueberry and blackberry fruit blends well with coffee, violets, anise, tar, and these deep mineral, pencil shavings and iron tones. Deep yet lively, this will continue to get better over at least the next five years. Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira. This wine is consistently an awesome value. (91 points)

2016 Herdade do Esporão Alentejo Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $24
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy aromas with charcoal, graphite and anise over top of dark plums and black cherry jam. Medium/full-bodied with nice, dusty tannins, chewy but lively with plums and black cherries. Notes of tar, charcoal, smoky, leather, with mineral undertones. Fresh, lively, with a vibrant finish. Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. Expressive, exciting, especially for the price. (89 points)

2019 Viña Bujanda Rioja Blanco -­ Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $15
Rich yellow color. Interesting tones of apricot, orange peel, with hay, white tea, some sea salt, dried honey. Inviting texture on the palate but also vibrant and fresh throughout, and the white peach, orange peel and yellow apple fruit mixes well with sea salt, brine, dried nuts, wildflowers. There’s a lot of pure, mineral undertones and a lot of depth in here. (88 points)

2016 Bodegas Palacio Rioja Blanco Cosme Palacio Crianza -­ Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $26
Deep yellow color. A complex, inviting blend of apricot and orange, drizzled in honey, topped in sea salt, candle wax, almond skin and white flowers. Deep texture but precise on the palate, waxy yet zesty, with lemon peel, grapefruit and nectarine, mixed in with spiced white tea, sea spray, saltine crackers, mixed nuts and honey. Complex, evolving well but this has a solid stretch of years ahead of it, too. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Valentine's Day Selections

This Valentine’s Day is much different than others, given the global pandemic. But, in the spirit of looking on the bright side, I’ve gathered together some wines that may help bring some joy to your Valentine’s Day. Whether you’re cooking at home or grabbing some takeout, here’s wishing you a happy and loving time with you and yours. (And, don’t worry, I don’t have any wine and chocolate pairings.)

There are plenty of bubbles in this report, including Moscato, Cava and Champagne. There are some solid inexpensive options in this report (because who couldn’t use some savings these days).

Southern Rhone blends, and specifically Cotes du Rhone wines, are largely responsible for getting me to take wine seriously. When I was first getting into wine, I loved the accessible price points and the vibrant, spicy, food-friendly appeal. I still love these wines, and I have a few delightful examples that offer value and quality.

California wines always have a place in my heart, so I’ve chosen a few that recently stuck out and seem like good choices for a wide range of palates.

Lastly, I included two wines from Oregon’s Troon Vineyard because, well, I love them.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut Rosé - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Vibrant pink color. A steely, chalky nose with white flowers and tart strawberries, mint. Bright and tangy on the palate with light strawberry and white cherry fruits. Steely, bright appeal with wildflowers, dandelion, lemon verbena and some chalky notes. Simple, inexpensive, fun, salad and seafood-friendly stuff. A 75/25 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (86 points)

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne La Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Lovely nose of biscuits, chalk, sea salt, with lemon-lime, kiwi, ginger, fresh laundry and white floral tones. The palate is framed with precise acidity, and has solid depth of texture. Tangy lemons and limes with yellow apples, and the fruit is backed up by elements of graham cracker, honey, bread dough and shaved ginger. Fresh, versatile, complex, this is juicy but focused, a solid big house Champagne. (90 points)

2018 Clos Bellane Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas
SRP: $23
Plummy aromas with deep blackberries, smoky earth with these peppery, grilled lamb and warm clay tones. On the palate, this is full but fresh with moderating acidity and moderate tannins, deep but inviting compote of plums, blueberries and blackberries. Notes of violets, peppered steak, glazed mushroom and balsamic glaze, and these mineral and graphite tones on the finish. Fresh and approachable but also complex and even age-worthy. Great value here. A wine for newbs and nerds alike. (91 points)

2018 Delas Frères Côtes du Rhône Saint-Esprit - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $12
Medium purple color. Aromas of plums, suave black cherries and blueberries, with tar, roses, anise, campfire tones. Full-bodiee with chewy texture and medium acidity, a voluptuous style with blueberries and black cherry compote. Notes of cocoa, scorched earth, tar and cigar shop add complexity, some violets and clay thrown in. This is a nice CdR for a cold, wintry night, and a solid value. 60% Syrah, 40% Grenache. (87 points)

2017 Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Villages - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Aromas of roasted figs and cherry preserves, with smoky earth, violets, paprika, tilled soil. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Accessible and fun with roasted figs, black cherries, summery fruit laced with pepper, earth, campfire smoke. Accessible, fun, but sporting some complexity for the price as well. (87 points)

2017 Stéphane Ogier Côtes du Rhône Le temps est venu - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $20
A nice, inviting mix of black currants and tart cherries on the nose, with roses, violets, and spicy, complex tones of pepper, paprika and scorched earth. Medium/full-bodied with a chewy texture, velvety tannins, bright acidity keeps if fresh. Plums, black cherries and blackberry fruit shows a tangy but bold feel, and the fruit is backed up by pepper, clove, grilled steak and anise tones. Surprisingly refreshing and complex, it’s accessible but “serious” and a serious food-friendly, crowd-pleasing value 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre. (90 points)

2019 Vietti Moscato d'Asti Cascinetta Vietti - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
SRP: $16
Light straw color. The aromas pop with white peaches, guava and kiwi, along with a tropical burst of orange blossoms and honeysuckle. On the palate, this is sweet and juicy but the acidity is lovely, and keeps it fresh and steers away from being cloying. Guava, canned peaches, farm fresh apple cider tones, with these floral perfume and honeysuckle tones. Crushable but focused and shows surprising balance. For those (like me) who aren’t big fans of Moscato, this is just undeniably good and a lot of fun. (88 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Medium gold color. Aromas of yellow apples, white flowers, new tennis ball, honey. Light and fresh with plump yellow apple and zesty lemon fruit. Chalky, stony tones, with some graham cracker and honey. Juicy, bright, sugar woven in nicely. Easy-drinking, sporting complexity and deliciousness for a low price point. Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo, aged 15 months in bottle. (86 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Rosé Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Deep copper color. Nose shows tart strawberries, white cherries, with straw, chalk and talc tones, white flowers. Zippy and crunchy on the palate with a brisk , drier, focused feel. Raspberry, strawberry and white cherry fruit mix with some baguette, lemon verbena/mint tones, sliced cucumber and chalk elements. Crisp, focused, and shows a lot for the price. I’d rather sip this with some seafood or charcuterie over a lot of widely-available bubbles at twice the price. (88 points)

2019 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Gamble Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. The nose pops with lemons, grapefruit, kiwi, mixed with lemongrass, ramp leaves, chalk and white tea. Plush texture meets refreshing, mouth-watering acidity for a delightful balance. Grapefruit, lemon and kiwi fruit mix well with lemongrass, mint and sliced cucumber tones. Rushing minerals and stony notes follow, and there’s a clear, racy finish. Value and class abound in this Napa Sauv Blanc. (90 points)

2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay Benchmark - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Deep yellow color. Rich, inviting nose of yellow pears, bruised apples, with nutmeg, cinnamon, hay, honey and yellow flowers. The palate shows plush texture, creamy and buttery, but moderate acidity, too. Yellow apples, apricots and pears, the fruit is generous but lively, not overdone. The honey butter, nutmeg and nougat are matched with minerality, stony and chalky tones. Deep but harmonious, delicious but crisp, too. This should open up nicely with a few years, too. Aged 15 months in all new French oak. (91 points)

2020 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Rosé Winemaker's Release - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $25
Pale salmon color. A forward, inviting but bright nose showing lemon, raspberry and kiwi fruit, along with hay, daisies, mint and clover. Dry, zippy, fresh and focused on the palate with fruit more like white cherries and McIntosh apples. Honeysuckle, clover and hint of celery seed. Lots of character and complexity in this direct press rose from estate Pinot grown in Vine Hill Ranch and Owsley Estate. (90 points)

2018 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $38
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows smoky, beefy, peppery tones that accentuate the tart black currant and blackberry fruit, with notes of violets and graphite. Vibrant acidity frames this wine nice, full-bodied, velvety tannins, it’s wrapped together nicely. Tangy black currant and blueberry fruit blends with these elements of black tea, pepper, violets, anise, scorched earth. The complexity and balance are really something. This is delightful now, but I’d love to see it age five years. Aged 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Mi Sueño Syrah - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Dark purple color. A deep, saucy but welcoming nose of blueberries and black currants, wrapped in mesquite, smoky earth, black pepper, leather and clove. Full-bodied, refined tannins, the acidity is quite fresh and keeps this wine moving forward. Deep plums and black currant fruit, mixing well with menthol, mesquite, black pepper, and some balsamic and mushroom glaze. Savory, peppery kick on the finish is welcomed, and the oaky tones are woven in well. Could use air for sure or a few years, but this is a whole lot of Napa Syrah goodness. All Syrah, spends 20 months in 55% new French oak. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Tannat Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. The nose exudes juicy, dark plums, blackberries, but there’s liveliness to the fruit, too, along with roses, violets, tilled soil and black pepper. Medium/full-bodied, crisp acidity, strong tannic grip but the edges aren’t harsh, nicely balanced. Tangy black cherries and tart blueberry fruit blends with cocoa, coffee, graphite, violets, tobacco. This needs air and/or time to open up but it’s already expressive, and the earthiness and freshness are really attractive. All Tannat aged two years in old French oak. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $65
Boisterous purple color. The nose is great, starting off with smoky, beefy, peppery, anise tones, along with graphite and violets, over top of tart black currants and black cherries. Vibrant acidity is really great in here, balancing out the sturdy grip, while the tart blackberry and tangy black currant fruit carries the wine forward. Pepper, black tea, violets, clove, anise, tar, the complexities are great. This is delightful and I’d love to see what this does with six to eight years of age. 70% Tannat and 30% Malbec, co-fermented with native yeasts, aged two years in old French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.