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Saturday, December 18, 2021

Year-End Selections: International Wines for Difficult Times

As a long year winds down, I hope you have some nice bottles lined up to share with loved ones. With the holidays in full swing, I’m taking a break from sparkling wines and focusing on some wines that offered me a chance to travel. In my mind at least; I’ve been cooped up for a long time. But there are places I want to visit and wine regions I want to dig into, and tasting wine always gets me thinking and planning.

I’ve long been a fan of wines from Argentina, and I recently tasted through several wines that reminded me that there’s a lot more to explore. The value to be found there has always attracted me, but more and more I’m finding wines that show a whole lot more depth and nuance than I expected. Oh, to visit one day!

Chile is another country I have had on my list. Surfing the coast, climbing some mountains, and visiting the wine regions in between, it’s a bucket list trip I plan to take one day. But, in these pandemic times, some delightful reds from Chile offered a peek into a beautiful country.

I also have three wines that could only come from Southwest France. With some many varied appellations and styles, I always enjoy trying to dig into the diversity and history of the wines from this region. With a host of indigenous varieties, plenty of value to find, and a fascinating winemaking culture and history, the three wines in this report are barely scratching the surface.

An inexpensive red from Veneto and an impressive Napa Cab round out this report.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Argentina

2020 Piattelli Vineyards Torrontés - Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $14
Medium straw color. The nose pops with peaches and white flowers, mango and papaya, lots of tropical flowers. The palate shows crisp acidity and moderately creamy texture, but there’s a nervy, salty vibe that helps keep things fresh against the juicy, papaya and peach fruit. Some slate and mineral elements on the finish, with flowers, too. There’s quite a lot going on here, and shows freshness and balance. (89 points)

2018 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
A vibrant purple color. Juicy nose of black cherries and red plums tossed with a generous dose of mesquite, violet petals, cocoa, really lush and inviting. Full but suave on the palate with medium acidity and smooth tannins. Flavors of blueberries and plum sauce mix well with a nice, stony, mineral, graphite component. Those smoky, meaty, bacon elements linger onto the finish. Fun and highly delicious but shows nice complexity as well. (89 points)

2014 Mascota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Magnánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $70
This Cabernet sports a deep, dark, inviting nose of currants and blueberries, with complex elements of coffee, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut and herbal, floral tones – just a beautiful, enticing aromatic display. The palate delivers what the nose promises, with deep concentration and grippy tannins but lively acidity and plenty of freshness. Tangy blueberries, blackberries and figs, mixes with smoky, earthy tones, and iron/graphite elements. A wine worthy of cellar contemplation and the choicest grilled meats, this is a delightful Mendoza Cabernet. (93 points)

2020 Bodega El Esteco Torrontés Don David Reserve - Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose pops with classic notes of peaches and guava, with interesting salty, yellow flower and honeyed tones. The palate shows zippy acidity and a pleasantly creamy texture. Peaches and papaya flow, with tones of tropical flowers, sea salt and whipped honey. Crisp and bright but delightful textural depth and lovely Torrontes tropical goodness. (89 points)

2020 Durigutti Proyecto “Las Compuertas” Criolla Parral - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
SRP: $ 25
Pale ruby color. So juicy with aromas of raspberries, strawberries and red apple, with complex notes of spiced tea, pepper and airy roses. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins and bright acidity, which supports bright red fruit (red apple, raspberry and strawberry). Notes of lavender, rose petals, violets and clove add complexity, and air brings out sage, rhubarb and clay tones. So fresh, airy and floral with elegant, flora, spicy tones. I really want to see more wines like this from Argentina in the U.S. Made from Criolla Chica (Pais), this is something else! Crushable but complex and beautiful. (91 points)

Chile

2017 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Cabo de Hornos - Chile, Rapel Valley, Cachapoal Valley
SRP: $57
Dark purple. The aromas are so, so good, with deep currants, plums, smoky earth, menthol, a warm holiday cider vibe, really lovely. Full but fresh on the palate, the tannins show solid grip with refined edges, and the acidity is lively. Fresh currants and blackberries, joined with a unique mix of mint, tobacco, eucalyptus, clove, violets, a lot comes out with air. Nice concentration and freshness that will pay off in the cellar. 100% Cabernet. (92 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Carménère Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Rapel Valley, Peumo
SRP: $24
Deep purple color. Aromas show a classic mix of black cherries, tobacco, bell pepper, along with violet petals and coffee grounds – just delightful. Full-bodied, suave with blackberries and fig fruit, balanced with fresh acidity. Blackberries and cherry fruit, tangy but saucy, and it mixes well with roasted red pepper, coffee and tobacco tones. A lot of complexity in here for the price, and a really interesting expression of Carménère. (90 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Pinot Noir Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $20
Vibrant ruby color. A really spicy, floral and perfumed display on the nose with rose petals, black pepper, rhubarb and pepperoni over tangy red cherries. Crisp acidity, light tannins, this is a bright and floral Pinot with juicy strawberries and cranberry fruit. Notes of rose teal, paprika, rhubarb and sage add complexity to this fun, fresh wine. Shows a lot more complexity and authenticity than a lot of similarly-priced Pinot Noirs from a lot of other regions and countries. (89 points)

Italy

2020 Gran Passione Veneto Rosso - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $14
Light purple color. The nose shows a pleasantly jammy mix of raspberries and cherries along with sweet rose petals and red licorice notes. The palate shows medium acidity and smooth, chewy tannins with sweet plums and raspberries. Has a saucy, fun appeal with notes of roses, clove and licorice. A fun, value-driven blend of Merlot and Corvina. (87 points)

France

N.V. Domaine du Moulin Gaillac Méthode Ancestrale - France, Southwest France, Gaillac
SRP: $20
Rich yellow color. The nose shows a delightful mix of white tea and candle wax, chalk dust, over lemons and yellow apples. The palate is zesty and brisk with a nice mix of whipped honey and limestone/chalky tones and delightfully fine bubbles. The yellow apple, lime and lemon fruit is fun and fresh and the wine maintains a floral, bright, steely appeal that would make this delightful with Ramen, sushi and more. Crisp and fun but enough depth to keep it interesting. Made from 100% Mauzac, a Pet-Nat lover’s wine for sure. (88 points)

2020 Domaine Duffour Côtes de Gascogne - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Côtes de Gascogne
SRP: $12
Medium yellow color. So bright on the nose, with limes and kiwi, lemongrass, tones of white pepper and oregano, a really fun, bright and spicy wine. Crisp and floral on the nose, zesty but some pleasant creaminess. Kiwi, lemon, green apples and white peach fruit mix well with floral perfume and celery seed tones. Super fun and fresh, nice creaminess, a delightful shellfish and salad wine. (87 points)

2018 Producteurs Plaimont Saint-Mont Nature Secrete - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Saint-Mont
SRP: $13
Deep, dark purple color. The nose shows a pleasant mix of campfire, roasted coffee and anise over top of black cherries and currants. On the palate this shows fresh acidity, some rough edges around the tannins but its also packed with tart currant fruit that makes it accessible. A complex mix of menthol, tar, pepper and earth. A spicy, tangy but friendly wine that would pair well with any grilled game and veg you could throw at it. Tannat with 15% Pinenc and 15% Cab Sauv. (86 points)

USA

2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. The nose shows a warm compote of roasted figs and tangy blueberries with deep tones of anise, clove and graphite, along with pepper, cocoa and some gravelly, loam tones. The palate shows firm tannins and medium acidity, along with a tart but sweet mix of blueberries, figs and black cherries. There’s a complex mix of smoky, minty, cocoa, tobacco and roasted chestnut elements. This wine sports a lot of concentration, age-worthiness and mystique, especially for a Napa Cab at this price point. Includes a combined 11% Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot, aged 20 months in 43% new oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Sunday, December 12, 2021

Wine Selections for the Holidays

 It’s been a long year. Whatever holidays you may be celebrating, I wish you and yours safety, joy, and good food and wine.

So, this week I have some selections that are all over the map. I tried to curate some samples that would please crowds, provide joy and pair well with celebrations and wintry foods.

Like many of you, I’m sure, I love bubbles year-round. But, of course, from Thanksgiving through New Year’s, bubbles are huge, and I have a nice mix in here. From inexpensive tank method bubbles through some delightful Champagnes.

Domaine Bousquet brings its Charmat method bubbles, which are the best-selling bubbles from Argentina and are inexpensive, accessible and fun. Lanson delivers three different Champagne options that offer a nice view of their approach, while Bruno Paillard delivers, as always. And California's Frank Family brings two different Champagne method sparklers to the table.

There are some also deep, juicy, warm reds, too, from California’s Smith Madrone, Sullivan and Tooth & Nail.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling wines

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The nose shows a bright mix of lemon and kiwi with sugarcane, white flowers, and some crushed chalk and sweet tarts. The palate is bright and light with zippy acidity and integrated sugar, light bubbles, and flavors of lemons, green apple, kiwi, floral perfume, talc. Fresh, fun, light and steely, crowd-pleasing bubbles. 75/25 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, 11 g/l residual sugar. (86 points)

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut Rosé - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Pale salmon color. This has a crunchy and lively aromatic appeal with raspberry, tart strawberry and notes of rose petals and talc. Has a fresh and vibrant feel on the palate, with soft bubbles and a crisp, steely vibe. Strawberry and white cherry fruit mix with notes of honeysuckle, rose petals, and some crushed sweet tarts and chalk tones. Fresh, fun and zippy. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 12 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Light gold color. Beautiful nose of lemons and pears, topped with honey, sea salt, bread dough and white flowers – a whole lot going on for a wine at this price point. Zesty and chalky on the palate with yellow apples and lemon fruit, mixed with some nuanced biscuit and dough notes. Nice verve and floral/salty kick. A classic value Cremant that would please a wide spectrum of palates. Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois with a 10 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Pale salmon color. The nose is crisp and floral with raspberry and red apples peel, along with chalk dust, wildflowers and perfume. Crisp and zesty on the palate with tight bubbles and flavors of raspberry, red apple peel and orange zest. Nervy and fresh, a light feel but not shy, and has some complex floral perfume, chalk and talc notes. This is reliable and delicious stuff and so reasonably priced. All Pinot Noir aged 12-18 months on the lees, 12 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Le Black Réserve Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Light gold color. Smells of lemons, kiwi and quince, along with lovely floral and mountain stream elements. The palate is crisp and light with lemons, green apples and limes, along with flinty, limestone and mineral elements. Zippy but nice fresh, crunchy bread elements. Light but fun. 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (88 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne 1760 Le Rosé - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Gorgeous salmon color with a nose of red apples and wild raspberry mixed with dried rose petals, tomato leaf, white pepper, talc and honey. The palate is tart and tart with dusty, salty, brightness and tones of raspberries white cherry and McIntosh apple. Salty, floral, honeyed and mint elements add complexity. Fresh and floral but shows a lot of depth as well. 53% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Green Label - France, Champagne
SRP: $75
Rich yellow color. The nose pops with green apples and lemons, chalk dust, honeysuckle along with limestone and sea salt. Crisp and fresh with green apples, lemons, along with graham cracker, honey and some chalky, flinty elements. Delightful, accessible, a fun, fresh, quite complex mix of  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Light yellow color. An invigorating nose of saline, limestone and chalk mixed with yellow apples, lemons, biscuits and croissants. The palate is racy and crisp but shows a lovely depth of texture as well. Lemons, yellow apples and orange peel mix so well with chalky, salty, briny tones, and these deeper tones of bread dough and shaved ginger. Precise, beautiful stuff – there’s a lot of clarity and depth here. Aged four years sur lie, 5 g/l dosage. (92 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. Lovely nose of lemon curd and yellow apples with chalk dust, nougat, bread dough, some flinty tones. Creamy yet zesty on the palate with a chalky, flinty vibe that supports lemons, yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Pure, focused, dry and bright with a lot of complexity. An impressive iteration of Chardonnay sparkling wine from Frank Family. (91 points)

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium copper color. The nose shows a crunchy, focused appeal with lemons, red apple and white cherry, along with notes of fresh baguette, honeysuckle and white flowers. On the palate this is zesty and bright with lemons, raspberry and white cherries, along with a host of doughy, white flowers, chalk dust. So good, focused, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a delight of a sparkler. (90 points)


Red Wines

2020 Tooth & Nail “Stasis” Carbonic Zinfandel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District
SRP: $46
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and fun on the nose with cherries and plums, mixed with sweet violets, rose petals, pepper and cocoa. Zesty acid, dusty tannins and a juicy core of cherries and raspberries. I love the farmer’s market mix of herbs and flowers, along with notes of clay, tobacco, pepper. It’s lively as heck but has solid textural depth as well. Fun and crushable but memorable and complex, too – loving this style. From Tooth and Nail’s estate vineyard in Paso’s Willow Creek AVA. (90 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Syrah “Destinata” - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $29
Pretty violet color. The nose is airy and open with wild raspberries and juicy blueberries along with roses, violets and cola. The palate has this plush feel with smooth tannins and zesty acidity. Gorgeous blueberry, raspberry and cherry, crunchy yet deep fruit. Notes of violet petals, warm black tea, pepper and leather add complexity. That carbonic goodness is so fun but the fruit and complexity underneath are legit. A crushable, Beaujolais-inspired Syrah that just rocks. (91 points)

2018 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $62
Deep purple color. A warm, inviting mix of currants and black cherries with dusty earth, clay tobacco, leather, graphite, just a ton going on as it opens up. Full but suave with such vibrant acidity and structured tannins. The fruit is a deep but crunchy mix of tart currants and juicy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with delightful mix of earth and graphite, leather and charcoal, roasted red pepper and nuanced cedar. Complex, fresh, beautiful stuff, this will age wonderfully for who-knows-how-long. Includes some Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

2018 Sullivan Vineyards Coeur de Vigne - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $110
Bright purple color. Exciting yet classic nose of black cherries and currants, laced with savory and spicy tones of leather, black tea, smoked meat, tilled soil – a lot to unpack here. Crisp acidity frames the wine well against solid, grippy tannins and a core of deep currants, plums and blackberries. The complexities are really impressive: black tea, light roast coffee, tar, violets, tobacco and roasted bell pepper. There’s also this flinty, graphite and iron mystique that underlines the whole thing. Deep yet vibrant, this deserves age, time and your attention. Includes 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in 65% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.