This week, I have a selection of American wines I find exciting.
For many years, I’ve been touting Arizona wines, and I’m here to do it again. I love a lot of Arizona producers, their DIY winemaking culture, the interesting mix of varieties and styles. One of my favorite activities in life is to go climbing and hiking in some Arizona mountains and come home to a delicious local red blend with a grilled steak. Aridus is a great entry into Arizona wines, as this Willcox-based producer has a lot of different bottles available in a bunch of markets.
I’m also a huge fan of amphora wines (grapes fermented on their skins in clay vessels). It’s been done all around the world in ancient winemaking cultures, from Georgia, Italy and Portugal. I spent a lot of time digging into the amphora winemaking culture in Alentejo a few years ago, and I’ve been keenly watching for New World producers who step up and make wines in this method and style. Behold! Beckmen Vineyards delivers with their “1Ingredient” wines. From Ballard Canyon, these wines are pure expressions of their grapes and place, but also of their fermentation method – as the wines offer this beautiful mouthfeel and elegant complexity. Check this out if any of this sounds interesting.
Booker is a Paso Robles producer I’ve known and respected for a while. Their wines are so exciting and delicious, and offer a ton of value, too. Paso is such a dynamic scene, and I always enjoy keeping up with what they’re doing out there – and Booker is a staple and legend for a reason.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Beckmen
2020 Beckmen Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 1ngredient – USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon SRP: $50 Light orange color. Gorgeous nose of pineapple and lemons mixed with honeyed white tea. There are this complex notes of raw almond, breezy spring air and flowers, some candle wax and hints of sage and dusty earth. The palate shows crisp acidity, it’s refreshing but shows such a rich, dynamic mouthfeel, layered, chalky, briny – I love it. Lemon and quince fruit mix so well with these raw almond, green olive and salt brine tones. Honeyed, bright, spicy, there is a lot going on here. If you’re looking for an out-there but delicious Sauvignon Blanc, give this a look! Fermented and aged on the skins in amphora for 10 months. (92 points)
2019 Beckmen Vineyards Viognier 1ngredient – USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon SRP: $65 Deep orange color. An inviting but also head-scratching aromatic display, with orange peel, honey, shaved ginger, lemon drops, pineapple, white tea – fascinating stuff. On the palate, this acidity is laser-focused, which becomes key in balancing these complex textural dynamics. Yellow apples, lemons, pineapple, laced with salted almonds, ginger, honeysuckle, with some mineral undertones. Delicious, intriguing, adventurous but clean, like a gateway band into a unique genre, this wine has a ton to offer. Fermented and aged on the skins in amphora for 10 months. (92 points)
2019 Beckmen Vineyards Syrah 1ngredient- USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon SRP: $85 Light purple color. Wow, the nose is so floral and breezy, like red cherries, pomegranate and rose petals on a spring meadow. The earthy, savory, peppery vibes are delightful. On the palate, this sports dusty tannins and a crisp, nervy appeal. Tangy raspberries and currants, so pure and racy, light and crisp, yet there’s a lot of depth as well. Rose petals, violets, earth, pepper, sage, creosote, a lot going on here. There’s a stony, mineral essence and a post-rain high desert hike feel about this wine – a focused and singular Syrah. Aged 10 months on the skins and then an additional year in amphora. (94 points)
Booker
2020 Booker Vineyard White – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles SRP: $65 Rich yellow color. The nose shows creamy pears and peaches, honey, graham cracker crumbs, with higher-toned notes of chalk and floral perfume. Creamy, waxy texture, but surprising acidity, with pears and honeyed apples. Notes of nougat, honey, hay, so plush, pristine and fun, a rare occasion of a lively Rhone white-based blend. Would love to see how this ages. What a cool mix of Viognier with 33% Roussanne, 10% Chardonnay, 7% Marsanne, aged in 60% new French oak. (92 points)
2019 Booker Vineyard Harvey and Harriet – USA, California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County SRP: $30 Deep purple color. Wow, these waves of blackberries and blueberries with a smooth, inviting appeal, along with eucalyptus, violets and cocoa. Full and smooth on the palate with velvety but structured tannins, and the vibrant acidity is killer. Tart blueberries, tangy black currants, the fruit is tart and deep but laced with beefy, savory, peppery tones. Eucalyptus, white pepper, violets, tar, clove, there’s also this stony, mineral, earth depth. Fan-friendly but complex and nerdy, too – a win-win, and a lot of value. Cabernet Sauvignon with Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, aged 18 months in 60% new oak. (91 points)
2019 Booker Vineyard My Favorite Neighbor – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles SRP: $50 Bright purple color. Juicy and deep on the nose with blueberry pie, roasted figs, along with earth, smoky, beefy tones, with mocha and toffee – a lot going on. The palate shows a suave a smooth mouthfeel with lively acidity and dusty tannic structure. Black currant and blueberry fruit mixes well with complex tones of gravelly road, mesquite, coffee grounds, black tea. Concentrated and age-worthy, but vibrant as well. Gorgeous stuff. 77% Cab with 11 % Petit Verdot, 8% Petite Sirah, 3% Syrah and 1% Malbec, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. (93 points)
2018 Booker Vineyard Syrah Fracture – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles SRP: $98 Dark purple color. The nose shows a gorgeous mix of smoky, beefy, mesquite and leather over top of tart blackberry and currants, deep yet inviting. The palate shows structured tannins and gobs of fruit, but we have to talk about the acidity – marvelous! Keeps it fresh as the black currant and blueberry fruit washes over, along with notes of graphite, iron, black pepper, black olives, mesquite and roasted red pepper. Big but complex and nuanced, this will age wonderfully for a long time. Really impressive stuff Syrah that has earned its reputation. All Syrah aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)
Aridus
2021 Aridus Sauvignon Blanc – USA, Arizona, Cochise County SRP: $35 Pale lemon color. Smells like a mix of lemons, white peaches, with cucumbers, chalk dust, some white pepper – interesting! Which is a lot more than I can say for Arizona SB. On the palate, this has a cool mix of bright acidity and creamy texture, with lemons, grapefruit, orange peel, tossed with mint, white pepper, along with some honey and white flowers. Really pleasant and as weird as Arizona SB may sound, this is a wine worth checking out. (88 points)
2019 Aridus Viognier – USA, Arizona, Cochise County SRP: $35 Medium yellow color. The nose shows rich yellow peaches and pineapple, along with honey, hay and some whipped butter. Rich and creamy (of course) but there’s also this salty, perfumed tones. Yellow apples, orange marmalade, pear butter, mixed with honey, graham cracker. But there are also these balanced elements of flowers and bright lemon zest. Delicious. Aged 19 months in old French oak. (88 points)
2019 Aridus Graciano – USA, Arizona, Cochise County SRP: $46 Deep purple color. The aromas show a mix of smoky tar, jammy blueberries and blackberries, along with cocoa, anise, and these gravelly, earth tones. Chewy tannins on the palate, low acidity holds this back, but enjoyable ripe cherries and plums. Plum cake, cocoa, tobacco, this is sun-roasted Graciano goodness. Aged 16 months in oak. (87 points)
2018 Aridus Syrah – USA, Arizona, Cochise County SRP: $46 Deep purple color. Smells of plum cake and black cherries, saucy and spicy with tobacco, mint, cocoa, anise, scorched earth. Smooth tannins on the palate with moderating acidity and a chewy feel with the black cherries and saucy plums. Peppery, smoky, coffee-y, with barbecue sauce and beef jerky. Lots of fun, ripe but nuanced, this is a great intro into what can be done with Syrah in Arizona. Includes 10% Viognier, aged in 50% new French oak. (89 points)
I’ve recently returned from a wonderful trip to Portugal and am back to focusing on some goodies from California.
Napa Cabernet is classic for a reason, and I’ve got some solid ones this week.
Since opening in 2014, Hamel has been putting out some really exciting wines from Sonoma Valley and Moon Mountain District. This was my first time trying their Nuns Canyon Cab and, just, wow. Calla Lily comes out swinging with two delightful Cabs worthy of consideration and cellar space, followed up by Cliff Lede’s latest Stag’s Leap Cab offering.
This was my first time tasting wines from Napa’s Lobo Wines. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir offered a lot more brightness and finesse than I was expecting, and the reds offer a lot of earthy, spicy vibes to enjoy. They planted their first Chardonnay vines in Oak Knoll about 20 years ago, and then found their 42-acre Atlas Peak property in 2007.While not inexpensive, these wines really deliver for the price.
Ram’s Gate makes another appearance here with two exciting wines. Their Chards and Pinots are delicious across the board, but this new Hyde Chardonnay is really something. And Paso’s Tooth and Nail keep on trucking with some burly but well-made red blends.
These wines were received as trade samples. For this report, I tasted the Cabernets below single-blind, and the rest of the wines sighted.
Cabernets
2018 Hamel Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Nuns Canyon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Moon Mountain District SRP: $160 Deep purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose with a core of tart blueberries and deep black cherries, mixed with lots of eucalyptus, mint, chewing tobacco, some coffee and tilled soil, just a gorgeous aromatic display. Solid grip, vibrant acidity, built so well with tangy, crunchy blueberries and dark currants. The stony, graphite, charcoal, pepper and cocoa accents are really attractive, and there’s this focused, fascinating minerality underneath that is awesome. Fermented in a mix of concrete, steel and oak and aged 20 months in French oak, this has a mighty long life of growth ahead of it. (94 points)
2017 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red - USA, California, Napa Valley SRP: $65 Dark purple. The nose shows a warm, inviting mix of currants and blackberries, tossed with classic Napa Cab goodness like eucalyptus, cedar, coffee – a lot to unpack. Full but fresh on the palate with structured but suave tannins and lively acidity to balance it out – the mouthfeel is just gorgeous. Juicy black cherry fruit blends well with a mix of coconut shavings, cola and clove, along with tilled soil, rocky earth and graphite. There is a lot going on here, and it really needs some time, but the core of quality is so solid. Cabernet with Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)
2016 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - USA, California, Napa Valley SRP: $120 Vibrant purple color. Deep, concentrated yet lively aromas of tart plums, currants and cherries, tossed with roasted herbs, anise, cedar and cocoa – a lot going on and its all warm and inviting. Full-bodied, smooth but structured tannins, balanced with vibrant acidity. A tangy, juicy core of black cherries and blueberries, gorgeous fruit, mixed with cool notes of roasted red pepper, charcoal, coffee, and an underlying sense of gravelly earth and graphite. Really well done, this could use five years and will improve for many more. Aged 27 months in 50% new French oak. Cabernet with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. (93 points)
2019 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District SRP: $82 Bright purple color. The tangy blueberry and black cherry fruit aromas are backed up by incense sticks, cedar, cocoa, mint, pencil shavings and stony earth. Bold but smooth, structured tannins, moderating acidity, the balance is really nice. Dark but lively blackberry fruit, tossed with tar, gravel, loam, charcoal, along with nuances of coffee and cedar. Nice and deep, well-made, balanced, this could use at least a few years but already showing refinement and finesse. Includes a combined 18% Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in 38% new French oak. (92 points)
Lobo Wines
2020 Lobo Wines Chardonnay Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District SRP: $70 Light yellow color. Really interesting nose of lemons and yellow apples, with nice shots of sea salt and brine, topped with crushed walnut and whipped honey – really nice. Beautiful texture on the palate, shows a honeyed feel with medium acidity, paired with lemon slices, ripe white peaches and yellow apples. Chalky, flinty, salty, mineral undertones make this really exciting, while richer notes of nougat, whipped butter and honey add depth and enjoyment on the finish. Full maloactic fermentation, aged in 75% new French oak. (91 points)
2015 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District SRP: $N/A Bright cherry color. Smells dusty and earthy in a very pleasant way, with rhubarb, white pepper, some beef jerky and rose hip tones, all over tangy cranberry and red cherries. Fresh and zippy on the palate with sweet raspberry and tangy strawberries, dusty tannins. Notes of roses, clove, pepper, earth, along with cedar and light roast coffee, woven in nicely. Juicy, tangy, spicy, elegant Pinot Noir here. (91 points)
2018 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District SRP: $50 Deep ruby color. The nose is vibrant but sweet with red plums and pomegranate fruit, along with rose petals, clove, pepper, dried flowers. Smooth tannins, the acidity is zesty, it is balanced well with raspberry and black cherry, some cranberry relish, tangy but warm and silky. Clove, leather, dried rose petals, notes of savory spices and clay earth come out with time. Delicious now but could show some cool elements with a few years. Aged 11 months in 35% new French oak. (90 points)
2018 Lobo Wines Howl Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District SRP: $70 Lively purple color. Aromas of cherries and dark currants, laced with a fun host of black pepper, beef drippings, charcoal, with violets and dark, scorched earth. Tangy currants and blueberry fruit over a bed of chewy tannins and zesty acidity. The pepper, paprika, roasted red pepper, soy and balsamic glaze notes add spicy, savory goodness, which lingers long on the finish with the dark fruit. Already showing a lot of complexity, but two or three years (or sipping over a few days) will do this Syrah good. Syrah with 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. (90 points) 2019 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley SRP: $80 Deep purple. A warm nose of black cherries and saucy currants, with mesquite, pepper, coffee, dark chocolate shavings, forest floor. Full and suave on the palate, smooth tannins and the acidity is medium. Ripe black currants, cherry preserves, tangy black cherries, the fruit is mixed well with notes of violets, tobacco, toffee and coffee grounds. A sweet, chewy finish but stays lively and nuanced. Stainless steel fermentation, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. Great to go now or hold for a few. (90 points)
2018 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak SRP: $95 Bright purple color. Wow, the nose is deep but lively with a cool blend of blueberries and tangy black cherry fruit, laced with warm black tea, tar, anise and cracked black pepper. Velvety but well-built tannins on the palate, vibrant acidity, with suave plums and blackberry fruit. Notes of magic marker, cocoa, mint and clove add a lot to ponder, and there are dusty, earthy, oregano, pencil lead and leather notes that really pop as well. A lot to unwrap, I’d give this five or six years, but it shows a lot of depth, personality and concentration. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak. (92 points)
Others
2019 Ram's Gate Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros SRP: $70 Medium yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd and yellow apples laced with notes of meringue, ginger, honey and nougat – a rich but inviting display. Creamy, deep texture with zesty acidity and gorgeous balance. Lemon and papaya fruit, rich but zesty, with complex notes of meringue, white flowers, sea salt, shaved almond. Pure, focused, crystalline, this will age wonderfully. One of the best Chardonnays I’ve tasted from this producer. (93 points)
2019 Ram's Gate Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros SRP: $85 Deep ruby color. Aromas of bright cherries and raspberries, mixed with complex notes of cola, rhubarb, white pepper, notes of pepperoni and paprika. The palate shows a zippy and a dusty tannic frame over top of tangy raspberry and cherry fruit. Notes of rose petals, tobacco, pepper and spiced black tea add quite a bit of complexity. Balanced, vibrant, earth and minerals on the finish. Refined, pretty Carneros Pinot. (92 points)
2019 Tooth & Nail Wines The Stand - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles SRP: $36 Dark purple color. Nose shows roasted figs, saucy plums, with coconut shavings, coffee, toffee, rich but nuanced and vibrant. The palate shows sweet tannins and moderate acid, a chewy and full texture wih notes of cocoa, coconut, black pepper, caramelized sugar. Fun and chewy but refreshing and complex as well, this begs for steak and grilled vegetable kabobs. Petite Syrah, Syrah and Viognier, aged 15 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)
2019 Tooth & Nail Wines The Possessor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles SRP: $36 Deep purple color. The nose is full of fig paste, rich and saucy blueberries, smoky, beefy rontes, with cocoa, cedar, graphite and anise – a lot to unpack. Jammy and plush on the palate, chewy tannins, smooth acidity. Plums and blackberry jam mixes with notes of cocoa, toffee, anise and cocoa. A deep, but inviting wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Malbec. (90 points)
