Italian Wines for the Holidays

Happy holidays from my family to yours.

I hope you all have been staying safe and warm this holiday season. Winter has been in full force over much of the U.S. last week, with the dangerous storm and travel disruptions. So, I hope you’re in a warm place surrounded by loved ones -- and hopefully some good food and wine.

I recently made my first lasagna of the season, which is a tradition for my family in the holidays, and I was happy to taste through some Italian wines and share some merriment with friends and family. And as travel and gift bills come due, I think it’s a great time to share some inexpensive options. So, to round out 2022, I have some Italian selections to share.

Even though it’s a frigid weekend for most everyone in the U.S. this week, I have a batch of mineral-driven Italian white wines. They’re all imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, sourced from estates across Italian regions. This represents a small snapshot of the diversity in Italian white wines and the value in here is something to get excited about.

I also have some interesting wines from Tenuta Sallier de la Tour. This Sicilian estate is owned by Tasca d’Almerita, and, earlier this year, began being imported by Dalla Terra. The price points are attractive, but more so the wines in the bottle. They offer a lot of classic Sicilian flavors, along with complexity and depth that outperforms their price tag. This was my first time trying this estate, and I’ll happily return to these wines when I’m looking for something fun and delicious from Sicily. (I’d be happy to see a bottle on a by-the-glass list for sure.)

These wines were received as trade samples. The white wines were tasted single-blind, while the rest were tasted sighted. Happy holidays to all!

Bouchaine's Exciting Carneros Pinot Noirs

The clonal variability of Pinot Noir is a fascinating thing. The propensity it has to mutate means there are hundreds of clones available, although not all are commercially important.

There’s rarely a single clone that winemakers swear by in all circumstances. Rather, similar to the way a rock climber places specialized protection in particular cracks and fissures, winemakers try to plant the right clone in the right spot to achieve their goals.

Credit: Bouchaine Vineyards

California's Bouchaine knows this process well. In the cooler Carneros region of Napa, Bouchaine has 87 planted acres, more than half of which are planted to Pinot Noir. Different clones in different blocks allows them to craft a diverse palate of Pinot expression.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting through four wines from winemaker and general manager Chris Kajani. The Napa native has been making wine at Bouchaine since 2015, and really knocked it out of the park in 2019. “We’re in the vineyard all the time. I’m there every day,” she described in a recent webinar. “We basically are picking based on taste.” Of course they run tests and check numbers, “but in the grand scheme of things there’s normally a certain flavor that I’m looking for and a certain ripeness to the tannins.”

With slight variations in soils, it gives the clonal uniqueness a chance to shine. “Pinot Noir has more clonal options than any other variety,” Kajani said. “And that’s why Pinot people can’t stop talking about clones. It’s what we do.”

Take the Swan clone, for example, which was planted by old-school Sonoma legend Joseph Swan at the advice of winemaker André Tchelistcheff. He also advised Bouchaine proprietor Tatiana Copeland on planting this clone on the Bouchaine estate. It certainly has found a great home in Bouchaine’s vineyards, as their wine is exquisite.

I tasted through four of Bouchaine’s elegant Pinots, three of which were single-clone bottlings, and the fourth is a blend of different estate clones. They’re individually delicious and very well-made, but collectively they offer a much more nuanced look at this grape and place. Parsing the differences between the three clonal selections, and comparing those to the bigger-picture blend, is a captivating and enjoyable process. And, considering the reasonable prices on these wines, this would be a great way to dig further into Carneros Pinot with a group of wine nerds, family, or friends.

And 2019 is a great vintage to dive into the intricacies in these wines. It’s one of my favorite vintages in Napa and Sonoma in recent memory – plenty of ripeness, but an airy, vibrant quality to many of the wines as well. It’s a vintage that drinks incredibly well right out of the bottle, but a lot of these wines have the stuffing for serious cellar improvement as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Swan Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Light ruby color. Such a delight to sniff, it has this vibrant, airy, effortless appeal, with waves of roses, rhubarb, white pepper, along with crunchy cherry, pomegranate and juicy raspberry fruit. Notes of spicy, clay and tilled soil add a lot to ponder. And then the palate hits, which is a bright and spritely show of strawberries, raspberries and tangy red cherry fruit – so alive and zesty. The dusty tannins provide structure, and the balance is delightful. Notes of rhubarb, mint, white pepper, rose hips, clay and some wild herb tones offer a complex, delicious and balanced wine. This is really something – crisp, airy, yet deep and complex. Hat’s off! Aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Pommard Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Juicy cherry color. The nose shows deep vibes, but it’s also alive and fragrant, with black and red cherries, along with violets, rose petals, some spiced black tea and dusty earth tones. The palate is packed with juicy black cherries and summer plums, with a nice tannic backbone, and a full but fresh appeal. This has a lot of savory goodness, with these bay leaf, mushrooms, pepper and paprika tones, along with complexities of rocky earth, cinnamon, spiced black tea, and light roast coffee. Delicious, deep but vibrant, this should age wonderfully over the coming decade. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (93 points)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Dijon Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Deep ruby color. Aromas pop with juicy black cherries and jammy raspberries, along with a lovely mix of herbal and spice tones (pine, spiced tea, tobacco, cedar), with notes of rhubarb and dried rose petals to round things out. The palate has ripe tannins and tangy acidity, well-balanced, with a mix of juicy black cherries and tangy strawberry fruit. The floral and earthy complexities make for a lot to ponder, as this needs air and swirling, but I love the earthy, peppery tones mixing with the cola and mocha elements. This has a lot to offer now, but I’d let it age gracefully for a few years first. Delicious stuff. The estate boasts five different Dijon clones, and this is made solely of Dijon 667. Aged 10 months in 33% new French oak. (93 points IJB)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Carneros - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $40
Vibrant ruby color. The nose rocks with these chilled strawberry and juicy raspberry aromas, backed up clearly by rhubarb, clove, bay leaf, dried roses and some cola tones. The palate is bright and focused, with lively acidity and tannins that have a fine, lightly dusty feel, combing for a round but fresh Pinot. Cherries, pomegranate and strawberry fruit, ripe but crunchy, with perfumed tones of roses and violets, along with some rhubarb, bay leaf and spicy pepper elements. There’s a lot going on in this wine, especially when you consider the price. This is a great intro to this producer’s style, and a ton of Pinot goodness for your money. (91+ points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Warm Winter Reds for the Holidays

Wintertime is here, and I hope you’re looking forward to the holidays. It’s getting colder, and I made my first cassoulet of the season, so it’s time for warming red wines.

And with the World Cup going on, I decided to round up some red wines from around the world that would be great options for the winter season. I also wanted to highlight some serious values as well, and many of these wines fit that bill.

From Chile to Napa, I have some Cabernets that offer a lot of richness and depth for not a lot of money. And there’s a delightful Tuscan red and Barossa Shiraz in here as well.

Rioja is always a good call in my book, and this week I have three from Bodegas Montecillo – a producer that has 150 years of winemaking history and sources their grapes mostly from the Rioja Alta subregion. The value in these wines is seriously impressive, and they have the ability to age and improve in the cellar for a while.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Colle Massari Montecucco Rosso Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. Lovely nose of black cherries, tart black currants and some fig paste, with lovely depth of spicy and herbal tones, including roasted meats, rocky hillsides, violets, wild herbs – a lot to parse out. Refreshing acidity and dusty tannins make for a finely balanced wine, full of tangy currant fruit. I love the stony, mineral, sun-roasted rock feel to this wine, along with the complexity and enticing nature of the herbal, earthy, and savory nuances. This begs for cold nights and your best braised meat recipe. Serious value alert! (91 points IJB)

2018 Yalumba Shiraz Samuel's Collection - Australia, South Australia, Barossa
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. A dark but juicy Barossa nose of plums, blueberries, with a mix of spicy, peppery, savory elements, including black pepper, balsamic glaze and anise. The palate is jammy but fresh with chewy tannins and moderating acidity, with ripe blueberries and sweet black cherries. Notes of pepper, sage, leather, black olive and spiced tea add a lot of fun and complexity. An accessible but shows depth and balance, too. (89 points IJB)

2020 Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée Alexandre Apalta Vineyard - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $26
Dark purple color. Juicy but deep on the nose with dark currants and saucy plums. Notes of charcoal, anise, pepper, mesquite and grilled steak add complexity. Moderately grippy tannins balance nicely with vibrant acidity and a core of dark, tangy fruit (blueberries, blackberries). I get notes of earth, anise, paved road, graphite and some coffee. Forward but complex, this is delicious now but could also hold for a few years. (90 points IJB)

2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $15
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of raspberries and red currants, with tones of tobacco, sage, earthy vibes, with floral potpourri. The palate sports dusty tannins an lively acidity, and this medium/full-bodied wine has a nice lively balance. Tart currants and strawberries, the fruit is crunchy and juicy, mixed with tobacco, pepper, rose petals, and earthy, mineral undertones. A reliably delicious Rioja value, here. (88 points IJB)

2017 Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $15
Medium ruby. The nose has a nice compote of raspberries, cherries and cranberries, with notes of cigar box, white pepper and dried roses. Plums and sweet cherries with soft tannins and smooth acidity. Black cherry and cranberry relish fruit mix with notes of tobacco, cedar, white pepper, some smoky, graphite elements, too. Fresh, fun, a crowd-pleasing style at a great price point. (87 points IJB)

2017 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Deep ruby color. The nose sports juicy cherries and raspberries, with a floral-spicy combo, black pepper, tar, anise – a lot going on. The palate is tangy and ripe with dusty tannins and crisp acidity, backed up by black cherries and dark plums. There’s a complex mix of sage, oregano, pepper, tobacco and some sweeter-savory tones of violets, roasted red peppers and coffee. Fun and forward, but the level of balance and complexity at this price point is impressive. Aged 18 months in American oak. (88 points IJB)

2014 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $20
Bright ruby color. So spicy on the nose, with pepper and paprika, over classic Rioja goodness: tangy red and black currants, topped in smoky, earthy, clay and pencil shaving tones. On the palate, the tannins are structured but refined, with moderate-plus acidity, balanced so nicely with tangy currant and tart plum fruit. The non-fruit elements are really what make this wine shine: clay and dusty earth, light roast coffee and pine tar, these floral and cigar box tones. Delightful now, but holding for a few would benefit this wine. Aged 24 months in French and American oak. (89 points IJB)

2011 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $23
Deep ruby color. Dusty, earthy, floral and savory tones are very expressive on the nose, with black cherries, cranberry relish, and mulling spices, beef broth, mushroom, dried flowers. On the palate, the dusty tannins are refined and provide effortless structure, while the acidity is crisp makes the wine so fresh. The cranberry and mulled cherry fruit has a lot of cool nuances, and the non-fruit expression is great: roses, violets, light roast coffee, chewing tobacco, earthy-gravelly elements, soy and mushroom flavors This is really vibrant, spicy and nuanced, and could offer even more in a few years. Crazy value in this Rioja! Aged 28 months in French oak. (90 points IJB)

2019 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir - USA, California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $42
Deep ruby color. The nose shows sweet cherries and plums, tart blueberries, along with rhubarb, spiced tea and cola tones. Sweet tannins on the palate, moderate acidity, with a host of juicy fruits (raspberries, blueberries, black cherries). Notes of violets, rose petals, spiced tea, light roast coffee and toffee add complexity. Fun and juicy but some nice spicy complexity as well. Aged 11 months in 45% new French oak. (89 points IJB)

2019 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $26
Dark purple color. Deep nose of black cherries and blackberry jam, mixed with spicy pepper, tobacco, violets and some coffee and magic marker. Full but fresh, a chewy but smooth feel with lively acidity, nicely balanced example of this variety. Black cherry and roasted fig fruit, dark and suave, with flavors of smoky earth, anise, toffee, mocha and vanilla. Delicious, fun Petite Sirah and a great cold weather wine. (89 points IJB)

2019 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Aromas show jammy plums and blueberries, along with sweet coffee and toffee, some clove and mint chocolate chips. Ripe and jammy on the palate with soft tannins and medium/low acidity, with flavors of plum sauce and sweet black cherries. Notes of pepper, toffee and coffee add yumminess. Juicy, fun, straightforward style. From Mendocino and Sonoma County fruit. (86 points IJB)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Saucy and enticing on the nose, with lovely earth, pepper, smoked meats, brisket, dried violets and graphite over the deep core of black currant and blackberry fruit. On the palate, this is refreshing and deep, with grippy tannins and lovely freshness from the acidity. Deep, tangy fruit (blackberry, dark currants), which is laced with complexities of smoky earth, graphite, roasted red pepper, sage and cracked pepper. Hints of toast are woven in expertly and there’s a deep, mineral-laden presence on the finish. This will age wonderfully. (93 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Winter Whites and Rosé

Happy December! The holidays are coming, the days are nearing their shortest, and the air is getting colder. By the time this is posted, I’ll hopefully be halfway through a long Shenandoah hike to a few summits to enjoy the cold solitude. And, I’ll likely be sipping some red wine and eating meat upon my return.

That said, I love stocking up on lighter wines for winter. I have a tradition – which dates back about a decade at this point – of opening a nice bottle of rose on the day of the first proper snowstorm. Maybe it’s a way of both embracing the cold and the discomfort that sometimes comes along with it, but also raising a glass that brings those summery, fresh vibes to the day. I highly recommend it. So, if you’re looking for some lighter wines for the holidays, I’ve got a good range of selections today.

For summery pinks, Provence is always on my mind. I received a few samples from Wines of Provence, a region that sent the U.S. 34% in volume of its exports last year. We love this stuff, and it’s easy to see why. (If I had a dollar for every winemaker from a different region who told me they make a “Provence-style” rosé, well I’d have money for a few of these bottles.

Napa’s Castello di Amorosa provides a wide array of white grapes and wine styles, from drier, zestier Pinot Biancos to Gewurz in off-dry styles. These show good value and crowd-friendly appeal for holiday gatherings. And, on the richer side of things, I have a wonderful white Rhone from Chateau La Nerthe, that would be great with all sorts of warm winter dishes.

I’m a big fan of the red wines from Napa’s Frank Family, but their sparkling wine program has been impressive to watch. Their Brut rosé and Blanc de Blancs offer a lot of complexity, vibrancy, and age-worthiness that makes their price points so reasonable. Worth checking out for sure if you’re a fan of California sparkling wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White

2021 Château La Nerthe Côtes du Rhône Villages Les Cassagnes de la Nerthe Blanc - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages
SRP: $24
Deep yellow color. The nose exudes pineapple, white peach and honeyed pears, and while those deeper tones are great, I get a lot of brighter, wildflower and herb nuances, too. Creamy and deeply textured on the palate but the moderate acidity keeps it lively – the mouthfeel is great. Papaya, pineapple and lemon curd fruit, which is backed up by these cool ginger, dried apricot, floral and waxy elements. What seals the deal is this mineral, stony finish. Complex and delicious, this could also do with a few years in the cellar. A blend of 30% Grenache Blanc, 30% Viognier, 30% Roussanne and 10% Marsanne. The quality and value in this blend are really something. (91 points IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Bianco - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $30
Medium straw color. The nose shows a whole bunch of fruity goodness (white peach, yellow apple, pears) along with orange blossom and daisies. The palate has a creamy texture with spritely acidity and a clean, floral-infused feel. Honeyed tones, too, with some light herbal flavors and stony, chalky notes on the finish seal the deal. All Pinot Bianco, all stainless steel. (87 points IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Grigio - USA, California, North Coast
SRP: $27
Light yellow color. A floral and potpourri-themed aromatic display, with some kiwi, green apple and pineapple. Crisp acidity on the palate, a juicy texture, with pineapple, green apple and lime fruit. Has a pleasant creaminess, with some floral perfume, sugar cane and spring meadow vibes. Fun, fresh stuff. (86 points IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Vermentino - USA, California, South Coast, Temecula Valley
SRP: $34
Light yellow color. A popping nose of white peaches and limes, daisies, clover, some honey and breezy flower garden tones. Sports a fuller body, creamy texture, but balanced with vibrant acidity, and flavors of kiwi, yellow apples, limes, backed up with honey, some crushed sweet tarts, and plenty of tropical flowers and flavors to enjoy. I’ve never tried this grape from this region before, and it’s a fun ride. (88 points IJB)

2020 Castello di Amorosa Gewürztraminer - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Ripe yellow color. Bursting aromas of peaches on the nose, with cantaloupe and limes, along with lemon verbena, orange blossoms. Richly textured on the palate, deep, honeyed elements, but there’s moderating acidity throughout. Yellow apples, guava and white peach fruit blend well with tropical flowers and nuanced spice and herbal tones. This would be so versatile with so many foods. (89 points IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Gewürztraminer "Dolcino" - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Sweet aromas of rich peach nectar and apricots, drizzled with honey, topped in white flowers and some green tea. Richly textured, sweet but the sugar is buttressed by vibrant acidity. Peaches, pineapple and limes, with a lot of floral and perfumed tones. I love the spicy accents, and along with subtle mineral tones, it makes this wine really pop. Fun for spicy foods or holiday parties. If you’re looking for some fun semi-sweet style. 13.5% alcohol, 35 g/l residual sugar. (88 points IJB)

Sparkling

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. A complex nose of biscuits, bread dough, chalk and sea salt, with yellow apples, lemon crème, some floral tones – lovely. Rich texture and vibrant acidity on this wine, has a pristine feel with these mineral and talc tones throughout. And the green apple and lemon fruit blends really well with the richer tones of biscuits, honey and almond. Lovely versatility and complexity in this wine, and I’d love to see it in a few years. Almost five years on the lees, this Blanc de Blancs has a lot to offer. (92 points IJB)

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $55
Deep copper color. Beautiful nose of raspberries and red apples, lots of roses, cut flower stems, chalky, slight biscuity tones. The palate has a crunchy and flinty feel, but the fine bubbles and creaminess make for a lovely balance. White cherry, raspberry and red apple fruit mix with tons of minerals and crushed shells, subtle spice, dried flowers and biscuits. Delicious but complex Pinot Noir bubbles aged four years on the lees. (91 points IJB)

Rosé

2021 Domaine de Cantarelle Côteaux Varois Riviera Bistro Rosé - France, Provence, Côteaux Varois
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose, with lots of herbal tones, too (oregano, mint, white pepper), over raspberry and red apple fruit. Punchy and vibrant on the palate, a juicy texture but racy acidity. Raspberry, white cherry and crunchy red apple fruit blends well with chalky, minty, spicy-herbal tones. Medium-bodied, fresh and fun – lots to like here. (88 points IJB)

2021 Domaine d'Eole Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence - France, Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence
SRP: $20
Medium copper color. Aromas pop with raspberry, watermelon, McIntosh apple, and tones of basil, dandelion, and crushed shells. The palate has pleasant creaminess and crisp acidity, and a fruit salad of raspberries, watermelon and lemon slices. There are these honeyed, white tea, and floral complexities that are quite impressive, with notes of saline, talc and a hint of rosemary. Fun, juicy but complex and balanced. Value alert! (90 points IJB)

2021 Famille Sumeire Château Coussin Sainte Victoire Côtes de Provence - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $17
Bright salmon color. A light and zesty appeal on the nose, tart and crunchy red berry fruit backed up by green herbs, sea salt and floral perfume. Brisk and taut on the palate with tangy raspberry and tart white cherry fruit. Lots of spicy-herb complexities (dandelion, nettle, white pepper), and this maintains a mineral, rocky, saline-infused vibe throughout. Refreshing, mouth-watering finish. A lot going on here. (89 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.