Italian Wines for the Holidays

Happy holidays from my family to yours.

I hope you all have been staying safe and warm this holiday season. Winter has been in full force over much of the U.S. last week, with the dangerous storm and travel disruptions. So, I hope you’re in a warm place surrounded by loved ones -- and hopefully some good food and wine.

I recently made my first lasagna of the season, which is a tradition for my family in the holidays, and I was happy to taste through some Italian wines and share some merriment with friends and family. And as travel and gift bills come due, I think it’s a great time to share some inexpensive options. So, to round out 2022, I have some Italian selections to share.

Even though it’s a frigid weekend for most everyone in the U.S. this week, I have a batch of mineral-driven Italian white wines. They’re all imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, sourced from estates across Italian regions. This represents a small snapshot of the diversity in Italian white wines and the value in here is something to get excited about.

I also have some interesting wines from Tenuta Sallier de la Tour. This Sicilian estate is owned by Tasca d’Almerita, and, earlier this year, began being imported by Dalla Terra. The price points are attractive, but more so the wines in the bottle. They offer a lot of classic Sicilian flavors, along with complexity and depth that outperforms their price tag. This was my first time trying this estate, and I’ll happily return to these wines when I’m looking for something fun and delicious from Sicily. (I’d be happy to see a bottle on a by-the-glass list for sure.)

These wines were received as trade samples. The white wines were tasted single-blind, while the rest were tasted sighted. Happy holidays to all!

Bouchaine's Exciting Carneros Pinot Noirs

The clonal variability of Pinot Noir is a fascinating thing. The propensity it has to mutate means there are hundreds of clones available, although not all are commercially important.

There’s rarely a single clone that winemakers swear by in all circumstances. Rather, similar to the way a rock climber places specialized protection in particular cracks and fissures, winemakers try to plant the right clone in the right spot to achieve their goals.

Credit: Bouchaine Vineyards

California's Bouchaine knows this process well. In the cooler Carneros region of Napa, Bouchaine has 87 planted acres, more than half of which are planted to Pinot Noir. Different clones in different blocks allows them to craft a diverse palate of Pinot expression.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting through four wines from winemaker and general manager Chris Kajani. The Napa native has been making wine at Bouchaine since 2015, and really knocked it out of the park in 2019. “We’re in the vineyard all the time. I’m there every day,” she described in a recent webinar. “We basically are picking based on taste.” Of course they run tests and check numbers, “but in the grand scheme of things there’s normally a certain flavor that I’m looking for and a certain ripeness to the tannins.”

With slight variations in soils, it gives the clonal uniqueness a chance to shine. “Pinot Noir has more clonal options than any other variety,” Kajani said. “And that’s why Pinot people can’t stop talking about clones. It’s what we do.”

Take the Swan clone, for example, which was planted by old-school Sonoma legend Joseph Swan at the advice of winemaker André Tchelistcheff. He also advised Bouchaine proprietor Tatiana Copeland on planting this clone on the Bouchaine estate. It certainly has found a great home in Bouchaine’s vineyards, as their wine is exquisite.

I tasted through four of Bouchaine’s elegant Pinots, three of which were single-clone bottlings, and the fourth is a blend of different estate clones. They’re individually delicious and very well-made, but collectively they offer a much more nuanced look at this grape and place. Parsing the differences between the three clonal selections, and comparing those to the bigger-picture blend, is a captivating and enjoyable process. And, considering the reasonable prices on these wines, this would be a great way to dig further into Carneros Pinot with a group of wine nerds, family, or friends.

And 2019 is a great vintage to dive into the intricacies in these wines. It’s one of my favorite vintages in Napa and Sonoma in recent memory – plenty of ripeness, but an airy, vibrant quality to many of the wines as well. It’s a vintage that drinks incredibly well right out of the bottle, but a lot of these wines have the stuffing for serious cellar improvement as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Swan Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Light ruby color. Such a delight to sniff, it has this vibrant, airy, effortless appeal, with waves of roses, rhubarb, white pepper, along with crunchy cherry, pomegranate and juicy raspberry fruit. Notes of spicy, clay and tilled soil add a lot to ponder. And then the palate hits, which is a bright and spritely show of strawberries, raspberries and tangy red cherry fruit – so alive and zesty. The dusty tannins provide structure, and the balance is delightful. Notes of rhubarb, mint, white pepper, rose hips, clay and some wild herb tones offer a complex, delicious and balanced wine. This is really something – crisp, airy, yet deep and complex. Hat’s off! Aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Pommard Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Juicy cherry color. The nose shows deep vibes, but it’s also alive and fragrant, with black and red cherries, along with violets, rose petals, some spiced black tea and dusty earth tones. The palate is packed with juicy black cherries and summer plums, with a nice tannic backbone, and a full but fresh appeal. This has a lot of savory goodness, with these bay leaf, mushrooms, pepper and paprika tones, along with complexities of rocky earth, cinnamon, spiced black tea, and light roast coffee. Delicious, deep but vibrant, this should age wonderfully over the coming decade. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (93 points)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Dijon Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Deep ruby color. Aromas pop with juicy black cherries and jammy raspberries, along with a lovely mix of herbal and spice tones (pine, spiced tea, tobacco, cedar), with notes of rhubarb and dried rose petals to round things out. The palate has ripe tannins and tangy acidity, well-balanced, with a mix of juicy black cherries and tangy strawberry fruit. The floral and earthy complexities make for a lot to ponder, as this needs air and swirling, but I love the earthy, peppery tones mixing with the cola and mocha elements. This has a lot to offer now, but I’d let it age gracefully for a few years first. Delicious stuff. The estate boasts five different Dijon clones, and this is made solely of Dijon 667. Aged 10 months in 33% new French oak. (93 points IJB)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Carneros - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $40
Vibrant ruby color. The nose rocks with these chilled strawberry and juicy raspberry aromas, backed up clearly by rhubarb, clove, bay leaf, dried roses and some cola tones. The palate is bright and focused, with lively acidity and tannins that have a fine, lightly dusty feel, combing for a round but fresh Pinot. Cherries, pomegranate and strawberry fruit, ripe but crunchy, with perfumed tones of roses and violets, along with some rhubarb, bay leaf and spicy pepper elements. There’s a lot going on in this wine, especially when you consider the price. This is a great intro to this producer’s style, and a ton of Pinot goodness for your money. (91+ points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Warm Winter Reds for the Holidays

Wintertime is here, and I hope you’re looking forward to the holidays. It’s getting colder, and I made my first cassoulet of the season, so it’s time for warming red wines.

And with the World Cup going on, I decided to round up some red wines from around the world that would be great options for the winter season. I also wanted to highlight some serious values as well, and many of these wines fit that bill.

From Chile to Napa, I have some Cabernets that offer a lot of richness and depth for not a lot of money. And there’s a delightful Tuscan red and Barossa Shiraz in here as well.

Rioja is always a good call in my book, and this week I have three from Bodegas Montecillo – a producer that has 150 years of winemaking history and sources their grapes mostly from the Rioja Alta subregion. The value in these wines is seriously impressive, and they have the ability to age and improve in the cellar for a while.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Colle Massari Montecucco Rosso Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. Lovely nose of black cherries, tart black currants and some fig paste, with lovely depth of spicy and herbal tones, including roasted meats, rocky hillsides, violets, wild herbs – a lot to parse out. Refreshing acidity and dusty tannins make for a finely balanced wine, full of tangy currant fruit. I love the stony, mineral, sun-roasted rock feel to this wine, along with the complexity and enticing nature of the herbal, earthy, and savory nuances. This begs for cold nights and your best braised meat recipe. Serious value alert! (91 points IJB)

2018 Yalumba Shiraz Samuel's Collection - Australia, South Australia, Barossa
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. A dark but juicy Barossa nose of plums, blueberries, with a mix of spicy, peppery, savory elements, including black pepper, balsamic glaze and anise. The palate is jammy but fresh with chewy tannins and moderating acidity, with ripe blueberries and sweet black cherries. Notes of pepper, sage, leather, black olive and spiced tea add a lot of fun and complexity. An accessible but shows depth and balance, too. (89 points IJB)

2020 Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée Alexandre Apalta Vineyard - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $26
Dark purple color. Juicy but deep on the nose with dark currants and saucy plums. Notes of charcoal, anise, pepper, mesquite and grilled steak add complexity. Moderately grippy tannins balance nicely with vibrant acidity and a core of dark, tangy fruit (blueberries, blackberries). I get notes of earth, anise, paved road, graphite and some coffee. Forward but complex, this is delicious now but could also hold for a few years. (90 points IJB)

2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $15
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of raspberries and red currants, with tones of tobacco, sage, earthy vibes, with floral potpourri. The palate sports dusty tannins an lively acidity, and this medium/full-bodied wine has a nice lively balance. Tart currants and strawberries, the fruit is crunchy and juicy, mixed with tobacco, pepper, rose petals, and earthy, mineral undertones. A reliably delicious Rioja value, here. (88 points IJB)

2017 Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $15
Medium ruby. The nose has a nice compote of raspberries, cherries and cranberries, with notes of cigar box, white pepper and dried roses. Plums and sweet cherries with soft tannins and smooth acidity. Black cherry and cranberry relish fruit mix with notes of tobacco, cedar, white pepper, some smoky, graphite elements, too. Fresh, fun, a crowd-pleasing style at a great price point. (87 points IJB)

2017 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Deep ruby color. The nose sports juicy cherries and raspberries, with a floral-spicy combo, black pepper, tar, anise – a lot going on. The palate is tangy and ripe with dusty tannins and crisp acidity, backed up by black cherries and dark plums. There’s a complex mix of sage, oregano, pepper, tobacco and some sweeter-savory tones of violets, roasted red peppers and coffee. Fun and forward, but the level of balance and complexity at this price point is impressive. Aged 18 months in American oak. (88 points IJB)

2014 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $20
Bright ruby color. So spicy on the nose, with pepper and paprika, over classic Rioja goodness: tangy red and black currants, topped in smoky, earthy, clay and pencil shaving tones. On the palate, the tannins are structured but refined, with moderate-plus acidity, balanced so nicely with tangy currant and tart plum fruit. The non-fruit elements are really what make this wine shine: clay and dusty earth, light roast coffee and pine tar, these floral and cigar box tones. Delightful now, but holding for a few would benefit this wine. Aged 24 months in French and American oak. (89 points IJB)

2011 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $23
Deep ruby color. Dusty, earthy, floral and savory tones are very expressive on the nose, with black cherries, cranberry relish, and mulling spices, beef broth, mushroom, dried flowers. On the palate, the dusty tannins are refined and provide effortless structure, while the acidity is crisp makes the wine so fresh. The cranberry and mulled cherry fruit has a lot of cool nuances, and the non-fruit expression is great: roses, violets, light roast coffee, chewing tobacco, earthy-gravelly elements, soy and mushroom flavors This is really vibrant, spicy and nuanced, and could offer even more in a few years. Crazy value in this Rioja! Aged 28 months in French oak. (90 points IJB)

2019 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir - USA, California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $42
Deep ruby color. The nose shows sweet cherries and plums, tart blueberries, along with rhubarb, spiced tea and cola tones. Sweet tannins on the palate, moderate acidity, with a host of juicy fruits (raspberries, blueberries, black cherries). Notes of violets, rose petals, spiced tea, light roast coffee and toffee add complexity. Fun and juicy but some nice spicy complexity as well. Aged 11 months in 45% new French oak. (89 points IJB)

2019 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $26
Dark purple color. Deep nose of black cherries and blackberry jam, mixed with spicy pepper, tobacco, violets and some coffee and magic marker. Full but fresh, a chewy but smooth feel with lively acidity, nicely balanced example of this variety. Black cherry and roasted fig fruit, dark and suave, with flavors of smoky earth, anise, toffee, mocha and vanilla. Delicious, fun Petite Sirah and a great cold weather wine. (89 points IJB)

2019 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Aromas show jammy plums and blueberries, along with sweet coffee and toffee, some clove and mint chocolate chips. Ripe and jammy on the palate with soft tannins and medium/low acidity, with flavors of plum sauce and sweet black cherries. Notes of pepper, toffee and coffee add yumminess. Juicy, fun, straightforward style. From Mendocino and Sonoma County fruit. (86 points IJB)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Saucy and enticing on the nose, with lovely earth, pepper, smoked meats, brisket, dried violets and graphite over the deep core of black currant and blackberry fruit. On the palate, this is refreshing and deep, with grippy tannins and lovely freshness from the acidity. Deep, tangy fruit (blackberry, dark currants), which is laced with complexities of smoky earth, graphite, roasted red pepper, sage and cracked pepper. Hints of toast are woven in expertly and there’s a deep, mineral-laden presence on the finish. This will age wonderfully. (93 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Winter Whites and Rosé

Happy December! The holidays are coming, the days are nearing their shortest, and the air is getting colder. By the time this is posted, I’ll hopefully be halfway through a long Shenandoah hike to a few summits to enjoy the cold solitude. And, I’ll likely be sipping some red wine and eating meat upon my return.

That said, I love stocking up on lighter wines for winter. I have a tradition – which dates back about a decade at this point – of opening a nice bottle of rose on the day of the first proper snowstorm. Maybe it’s a way of both embracing the cold and the discomfort that sometimes comes along with it, but also raising a glass that brings those summery, fresh vibes to the day. I highly recommend it. So, if you’re looking for some lighter wines for the holidays, I’ve got a good range of selections today.

For summery pinks, Provence is always on my mind. I received a few samples from Wines of Provence, a region that sent the U.S. 34% in volume of its exports last year. We love this stuff, and it’s easy to see why. (If I had a dollar for every winemaker from a different region who told me they make a “Provence-style” rosé, well I’d have money for a few of these bottles.

Napa’s Castello di Amorosa provides a wide array of white grapes and wine styles, from drier, zestier Pinot Biancos to Gewurz in off-dry styles. These show good value and crowd-friendly appeal for holiday gatherings. And, on the richer side of things, I have a wonderful white Rhone from Chateau La Nerthe, that would be great with all sorts of warm winter dishes.

I’m a big fan of the red wines from Napa’s Frank Family, but their sparkling wine program has been impressive to watch. Their Brut rosé and Blanc de Blancs offer a lot of complexity, vibrancy, and age-worthiness that makes their price points so reasonable. Worth checking out for sure if you’re a fan of California sparkling wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White

2021 Château La Nerthe Côtes du Rhône Villages Les Cassagnes de la Nerthe Blanc - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages
SRP: $24
Deep yellow color. The nose exudes pineapple, white peach and honeyed pears, and while those deeper tones are great, I get a lot of brighter, wildflower and herb nuances, too. Creamy and deeply textured on the palate but the moderate acidity keeps it lively – the mouthfeel is great. Papaya, pineapple and lemon curd fruit, which is backed up by these cool ginger, dried apricot, floral and waxy elements. What seals the deal is this mineral, stony finish. Complex and delicious, this could also do with a few years in the cellar. A blend of 30% Grenache Blanc, 30% Viognier, 30% Roussanne and 10% Marsanne. The quality and value in this blend are really something. (91 points IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Bianco - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $30
Medium straw color. The nose shows a whole bunch of fruity goodness (white peach, yellow apple, pears) along with orange blossom and daisies. The palate has a creamy texture with spritely acidity and a clean, floral-infused feel. Honeyed tones, too, with some light herbal flavors and stony, chalky notes on the finish seal the deal. All Pinot Bianco, all stainless steel. (87 points IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Grigio - USA, California, North Coast
SRP: $27
Light yellow color. A floral and potpourri-themed aromatic display, with some kiwi, green apple and pineapple. Crisp acidity on the palate, a juicy texture, with pineapple, green apple and lime fruit. Has a pleasant creaminess, with some floral perfume, sugar cane and spring meadow vibes. Fun, fresh stuff. (86 points IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Vermentino - USA, California, South Coast, Temecula Valley
SRP: $34
Light yellow color. A popping nose of white peaches and limes, daisies, clover, some honey and breezy flower garden tones. Sports a fuller body, creamy texture, but balanced with vibrant acidity, and flavors of kiwi, yellow apples, limes, backed up with honey, some crushed sweet tarts, and plenty of tropical flowers and flavors to enjoy. I’ve never tried this grape from this region before, and it’s a fun ride. (88 points IJB)

2020 Castello di Amorosa Gewürztraminer - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Ripe yellow color. Bursting aromas of peaches on the nose, with cantaloupe and limes, along with lemon verbena, orange blossoms. Richly textured on the palate, deep, honeyed elements, but there’s moderating acidity throughout. Yellow apples, guava and white peach fruit blend well with tropical flowers and nuanced spice and herbal tones. This would be so versatile with so many foods. (89 points IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Gewürztraminer "Dolcino" - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Sweet aromas of rich peach nectar and apricots, drizzled with honey, topped in white flowers and some green tea. Richly textured, sweet but the sugar is buttressed by vibrant acidity. Peaches, pineapple and limes, with a lot of floral and perfumed tones. I love the spicy accents, and along with subtle mineral tones, it makes this wine really pop. Fun for spicy foods or holiday parties. If you’re looking for some fun semi-sweet style. 13.5% alcohol, 35 g/l residual sugar. (88 points IJB)

Sparkling

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. A complex nose of biscuits, bread dough, chalk and sea salt, with yellow apples, lemon crème, some floral tones – lovely. Rich texture and vibrant acidity on this wine, has a pristine feel with these mineral and talc tones throughout. And the green apple and lemon fruit blends really well with the richer tones of biscuits, honey and almond. Lovely versatility and complexity in this wine, and I’d love to see it in a few years. Almost five years on the lees, this Blanc de Blancs has a lot to offer. (92 points IJB)

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $55
Deep copper color. Beautiful nose of raspberries and red apples, lots of roses, cut flower stems, chalky, slight biscuity tones. The palate has a crunchy and flinty feel, but the fine bubbles and creaminess make for a lovely balance. White cherry, raspberry and red apple fruit mix with tons of minerals and crushed shells, subtle spice, dried flowers and biscuits. Delicious but complex Pinot Noir bubbles aged four years on the lees. (91 points IJB)

Rosé

2021 Domaine de Cantarelle Côteaux Varois Riviera Bistro Rosé - France, Provence, Côteaux Varois
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose, with lots of herbal tones, too (oregano, mint, white pepper), over raspberry and red apple fruit. Punchy and vibrant on the palate, a juicy texture but racy acidity. Raspberry, white cherry and crunchy red apple fruit blends well with chalky, minty, spicy-herbal tones. Medium-bodied, fresh and fun – lots to like here. (88 points IJB)

2021 Domaine d'Eole Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence - France, Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence
SRP: $20
Medium copper color. Aromas pop with raspberry, watermelon, McIntosh apple, and tones of basil, dandelion, and crushed shells. The palate has pleasant creaminess and crisp acidity, and a fruit salad of raspberries, watermelon and lemon slices. There are these honeyed, white tea, and floral complexities that are quite impressive, with notes of saline, talc and a hint of rosemary. Fun, juicy but complex and balanced. Value alert! (90 points IJB)

2021 Famille Sumeire Château Coussin Sainte Victoire Côtes de Provence - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $17
Bright salmon color. A light and zesty appeal on the nose, tart and crunchy red berry fruit backed up by green herbs, sea salt and floral perfume. Brisk and taut on the palate with tangy raspberry and tart white cherry fruit. Lots of spicy-herb complexities (dandelion, nettle, white pepper), and this maintains a mineral, rocky, saline-infused vibe throughout. Refreshing, mouth-watering finish. A lot going on here. (89 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

American Wines from Coast to Coast

With Thanksgiving coming up, I wanted to share some American wines I think would fit well with any seasonal fare you and your friends and family may be serving. These represent a drop in the bucket of the diversity in regions, of course, but I’d be stoked to share these wines with my family and friends this week.

I haven’t (yet) made a wine trip to Long Island’s North Fork – but that’s long overdue. I’m a long-time East Coast wine fan, and it’s been awesome to see the growth in regions like Virginia, Maryland, and others since I started paying attention about 15 years ago. Recently, I received a six-pack of wines from Long Island’s North Fork that made me think: I’ve gotta get out there already!

And speaking of Virginia: Early Mountain. I love this place and their wines – just such reliably exciting, delicious, honest Virginia expressions. Their Petit Manseng rocks, and is worth checking out if you don’t have much experience with this grape and worth checking out even more if you do. Their reds offer a lot of juicy, spicy, Virginia goodness as well. And the value in here is really something. Very much worth a visit if you’re ever passing through the region.

Troon shouldn’t be a new name to long-time readers, as I’ve been stoked on this Oregon producer’s wines for years. This biodynamic outfit from Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley is always experimenting with exciting blends and styles. But two of their classic reds in this report make for great cold weather sipping.

And, of course, California is represented here. FEL delivers again with two delightful Savoy Vineyard wines from Anderson Valley that are a great choice for Pinot and Chard-lovers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $52
Medium yellow color. A deep but lively aromatic blend of yellow apples, tart lemons, with nougat and almond, cinnamon crumb cake, and notes of ginger and chalk dust, too. The palate shows crisp acidity and a creamy mouthfeel, with flavors of lemon bars and yellow apples and pears. The complexities in here are exceptional: almond cake, honey, yellow flowers, cinnamon, shaved ginger, with an underlying mineral essence. Gorgeous depth and texture, this should age wonderfully. 13.8% alcohol, this wine is aged 16 months on the lees in 35% new oak. (93 points)

2020 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant cherry color. The nose is lovely, with these waves of tangy raspberries, strawberries, with rose petals, clay pot, tobacco, earthy-savory tones, too – there’s a lot to unpack in here. Warm and smooth on the palate with structured tannins and vibrant acidity. Red cherries, tangy strawberries, juicy raspberries, the fruit is laced with tones of floral perfume, pepper, clove, clay and potting soil elements. Suave, silky, crisp, this is ready to drink but will open up nicely over the coming years. 13.9% alcohol, aged 16 months in 24% new French oak. (93 points)

N.V. Sparkling Pointe Brut Nature - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $42
Light gold color. I like the chalky, salty, flinty aromas (really catches the oceanic vibes of Long Island) with some honey and yellow flowers, and lemon and green apple fruit. Juicy yellow apple and lime fruit on the palate, supported with brisk acidity and some nuanced baguette tones. Chalky, spritely and dry, with fresh cut floral stems, dandelion and some spiced white tea. Fun, fresh, delicious blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier from this prolific sparkling wine producer. (88 points)

2020 Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $28
Bright yellow color. Lovely aromatic display here, with an infusion of juicy peaches and limes, chalk dust and saline, sugar cane, and fresh new tennis balls (in a good way!). Racy acidity frames the palate nicely, balanced sugar throughout, with big chunks of fresh pineapples, drizzled with lime. The chalk dust, crushed sea shells and minerals linger long on the finish. Racy, refreshing and tasty. (90 points)

2021 Lieb Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Bridge Lane - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $16
Medium straw color. Bright and floral on the nose, with tangy limes and juicy white peaches, topped in white flowers, mint and celery seed tones. Zippy, crisp and floral on the nose, with some pleasant creaminess and flavors of white peaches, pineapple and limes. Flinty, chalky tones, with a creamy but vibrant finish. Fun, fresh, a lot of personality for the price here. Really solid value. (87 points)

2021 Macari Vineyards Horses - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $29
Bright fizzy raspberry color. Spritely and tangy on the palate, with crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, with notes of white pepper, rose hips and bay leaf. Dusty texture, very zesty, this has a crunchy feel with tangy red apples and cranberry fruit. Fun and fresh with some cool spicy, herbal tones. A fun accompaniment to a wide variety of foods for sure. A crown cap Cabernet Franc sparkler, destemmed, it spends two days on the skins and is disgorged after five months. (88 points)

2019 Pellegrini Vineyards Chardonnay Stainless Steel - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $23
Pale lemon color. A tangy and brisk style on the nose with lemons and green apples, lemon verbena, seashells, some dandelion and daisy tones. Floral and tangy on the palate with citrus and green apple fruits on a crunchy, vibrant frame. Flinty, oceanic goodness abounds in this seafood-friendly style Chardonnay. (88 points)

2019 Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard Pink Satin - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $34
Pale salmon color. Nose pops with white cherries and strawberries, along with notes of honeysuckle, mint and orange blossom. Crisp acidity, moderate but balanced sugar adds some creaminess and sweetness, but it stays refreshing. Notes of tangy strawberries and juicy cherries, with some nice tea, white pepper and floral perfume tones. A nice salty kick on the finish as well. Melot, Cab Franc and Cab Sauv. (86 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. The nose kicks off with a great burst of smoky, beefy, peppery goodness, with roasted red pepper and mesquite, grille steak, over tangy blueberries and black cherry fruit. The palate shows nice grip with smooth tannic edges and delightfully fresh acidity and tangy plums, blueberries and black cherry fruit. The complex notes of roasted red pepper, soy, glazed mushrooms, gravelly earth and clove. Age-worthy but fresh, this has a lot of deliciousness and savory goodness packed in here, especially for the price. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Tannat - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose of tart black currants and blackberries is great, laced with complexities of smashed rocks, anise, tar, pencil shavings, dried violet petals. The palate is grippy but suave with tangy acidity and a nice core of tar blueberries and currants. Elements of smoky earth, charcoal, anise, coffee grounds and violets add complexity. The notes of savory broth and mushroom need years to unravel, and this will age gloriously for quite some time. Deep, tangy, balanced, spicy – a ton to love. (92 points)

2020 Early Mountain Vineyards Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $30
Rich gold color. The nose bursts with personality, showing deep apricot, orange marmalade, candied lemon peel, with notes of honey, graham cracker, white flowers, mint leaves and some salty tones. The palate shows classic Petit Manseng vibes with racy acidity, lip-smacking goodness, and rich, waxy texture, and the balance is just lovely. Nuanced throughout, with a complex mix of honey, hay, almond, yellow flowers. Exciting, delicious stuff that I’d love to taste in three to five years. Includes 4% Pinot Gris and 3% Chardonnay. (90 points)

2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc Shenandoah Valley - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $30
Medium ruby color. Loving the spicy aromatic kick here, with rose hips, black and white pepper, forest floor, along with a display of fresh raspberries, red apple and black cherry fruit. The palate is so fresh but deeply textured, with dusty tannins and a bright core of black cherries and wild raspberries. Lovely earthy tones, red clay, and notes of sage, white pepper, some black olive. Delightfully fresh appeal but a lot of complexity and depth as well. This should age nicely for a few years. If you haven’t tried Shenandoah Cab Franc, this is a great intro and value. (91 points)

2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Foothills - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $27
Deep ruby color. Inviting and juicy on the nose, with raspberries, red plums, topped in hefty amounts of roses, pepper, violets, leather and clove. The palate is silky and zippy with tangy red and black cherry fruit, juicy strawberries, the fruit is just delish. Notes of sage, rose petals, mint, spiced tea, it adds a lovely autumnal complexity. So darn fun. A fascinating blend of 28% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Petit Verdot, 8% Tanat, 8% Petit Manseng and 5% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Fresh Fall Values

With Halloween behind us, I’ve started seeing holiday decorations and displays going up in stores these past few days. But we still have plenty of fall left, and November is one of my favorite months. I’m looking forward to spending time in the mountains, cold nights, gathering with friends and family. But before we transition into the holiday season and crack open the Champagne and burly red wines, I have some offerings on the lighter side of the spectrum. And holiday travel, cooking, etc., can get expensive, so the selections this week all highlight value.

Vinho Verde brings to mind hot summer days with a plate of oysters (and that is certainly a great idea). But I’ve got some complex Vinho Verdes this week that offer more complexity and even some aging potential. No joke, I’d consider cellaring these two for a year or two and see what happens, as they have the depth and complexity to benefit from it.

If you’re looking to restock on some bright white wines and save some money, I’ve got two wines from Val de Vid, from Rueda in Spain. I also have two German samples I received from Wines of Germany. It was while living in Germany my senior year of high school that I had my first vineyard and wine appreciation experience, and I always keep some German wines on hand for holiday gatherings. And we round things out with a bright red blend from Portugal.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites

2020 Richard Bocking Pinot Blanc - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Spritely on the nose with chalk dust and floral perfume, basil and honeysuckle, over top of limes, green apple and kiwi. The palate is flinty and dry with vibrant acidity and a zesty, crystalline feel. The green apple and kiwi fruit is crunchy and precise with classic Mosel minerals and flinty undertones. Lots of floral and herbal complexity, too, this has a mountain stream quality to it, which is a ton of fun. (90 points)

2021 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro Vinho Verde - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $18
Light yellow color. Popping aromas of white peaches drizzled with lime, topped with daisies and dandelions, some honey and sliced celery as well. The palate shows zesty acidity and pleasant depth of texture, the balance between taut energy and some creaminess is pleasant. Peaches, lemons and limes, with salty, chalky, mineral tones, along with floral perfume and cut flower stems. Fresh, lively and fun, but the balance and complexity are legit. 100% Loureiro from estate-grown fruit. (89 points)

2021 Herdade do Esporão Vinho Verde Bico Amarelo - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $12
Juicy yellow color. Aromas of pineapple and lemon, along with some fresh mountain stream vibes, with yellow flowers, honeysuckle and some sliced cucumber. Delightful textural weight is balances by brisk acidity, and I love the flavors of tart lemon, kiwi and pineapple. Lots of flowers, but they’re nuanced and woven in well, never overpowering things. Pithy, spritely and complex, this is one of the more interesting Vinho Verde’s you may find. 40% Loureiro, 30% Alvarinho and 30% Avesso. (90 points)

2021 Val de Vid Rueda - Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $13
Medium yellow color. A meadow of wildflower goodness on the nose, with peaches and kiwi and clean laundry. Punchy and crisp on the palate with brisk acidity and flavors of papaya, peaches and lemon juice. Some waxy elements mix with tones of white pepper, oregano, basil, and the wine shows some salty, briny vibes as well. Lovely wine for salads and seafoods. 85% Verdejo from 25-year-old vines and 15% Viura from 50-year-old vines. (88 points)

2021 Val de Vid Verdejo Rueda - Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $14
Medium yellow color. Super bright on the nose, with a floral potpourri of white and yellow flowers and some basil, fresh cucumbers and honeysuckle, over top of peaches and papaya. Bright and zesty on the palate but nice texture, balanced well with roundness and freshness. Papaya, peach and orange peel fruit blends well with honey, basil, sliced green onion, chalk dust. Floral, fun, bright and versatile. All Verdejo from 25-30 year-old vines. (88 points)

Reds

2019 Ritual Pinot Noir - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $21
Deep ruby color. Bright and juicy on the nose with a nice mix of red apple peel, black cherry and wild raspberry, topped in notes of black pepper, rose hips and rhubarb. The palate shows fine-grained tannins and crisp acidity, over a bed of tangy cherry, red currant and pomegranate fruit. Notes of black pepper, charcoal, rose petals and rhubarb add complexity. Fresh and fun, spicy and floral, showing good complexity. Look, it’s rare I find a $20 Pinot I’d purchase and share with guests, but this is it. Aged 11 months in French oak. (89 points)

2019 August Kesseler Pinot Noir The Daily August - Germany, Rheingau
SRP: $25
Medium ruby color. The nose is spicy and floral with rose hips, white pepper and tobacco, mixing well with tangy red apple and juicy raspberry fruit, some earthy, savory undertones. Fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins on the palate, a mix of deeper black cherry fruit with tart red apples, and there’s a lot of peppery, tobacco and sage vibes that make this fun and interesting. Fun and fresh, but nice depth of mouthfeel and complexity. I would love to mix this wine in blind at a pinot tasting and see what folks guess. (I bet it gets some love, too). (90 points)

2019 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro Comboio do Vesuvio Unoaked - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $22
Bright purple color. Nice tart dark fruit on the nose (black cherries and dark plums), along with a pleasant mix of smoky, gravelly earth, with violets and magic marker tones. Medium-bodied on the palate, dusty tannins with rounded edges, medium acidity. Tangy dark plums and black cherries, the fruit is accented with rocky earth, graphite, violets, some tar and pine tones. Everything’s woven together well, with a nice floral and spicy finish. A fresher take, and a great intro to Douro red blends at a solid price. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Autumnal Selections

Autumn is in full swing, and I am loving it. I've been enjoying cool morning birdwatching walks, seeing the leaves start to change and evenings spent cooking up soups, stews and braised meat dishes after a long summer. I’m looking forward to hosting friends and family over the coming weeks, and, of course, planning some wines to share.

I’m always stocking up on whites, pinks and bubbles around this time of year, and I’ve got a few selections that would be versatile options for the upcoming season. For sparklers, I have an interesting new project to share: Vara from sparkling wine guru Laurent Gruet. This Brut blends Washington state Chardonnay with some Cava grapes from Spain – and the result is pretty darn cool.

Italian reds will definitely be a big feature of my fall and winter meal planning, and I’ll share some really nice ones this week. Founded in 1857, Bertani knows what they’re doing with Amarone, and their 2011 Amarone Classico is a stunner. And I have some value-driven reds that would be great for big gatherings.

 I also have two awesome wines from Shaw-Ross Imports, a delightful aged Gavi from La Scolca and a beautiful Chilean red from Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi’s Seña.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Rosé, white and sparkling

2021 Vinhos Sogrape Mateus Rosé - Portugal
SRP: $13
Deep copper color. Aromas of white cherries, raspberries, red apple peel, along with white flowers, honeysuckle, some chalk dust and mint. Bright and spritely on the palate with raspberries and tart white cherry fruit. There’s a pleasant creaminess and waxiness to the texture with tones of white pepper, honeysuckle, along with some talc and mineral tones. Ripe, pleasant, crisp, food-friendly and fun. (87 points)

N.V. Vara Silverhead Brut - USA, American
SRP: $25
Palest copper color. Gorgeous aromas of dough, hay, chalk dust and limestone, with white cherry and raspberry fruit, with floral perfume tones as well. Crisp, nervy and focused on the palate, this has a salty, briny appeal but also nice depth, with juicy white cherry and red apple fruit. Flavors of biscuits, almond and hay mix with saline and mineral-infused goodness. Has a brisk, clear feel but a lot of cool, complex elements. An interesting mix of 72% Chardonnay from the Ancient Lakes AVA in Washington, with 25% Xarel-lo/Macabeo from the Penedés in Spain, and a 3% shot of Syrah from Washington as well. An 8 g/l dosage, aged 18 months, disgorged May 2022. (91 points)

N.V. Luretta Principessa Emilia IGT - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Emilia IGT
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. A refreshing aromatic display of lemons, orange peel and yellow apples, with tones of crushed chalk, talc, fresh biscuits, with white tea and honeysuckle. Delightfully creamy and plush texture combines with racy acidity, which supports the creamy yellow apples and lemon pie flavors. Balanced sugar, notes of saline, enjoyable bread dough and biscuit flavors, topped in some crushed chalk and notes of verbena. This is a fun, fresh, classic method Chardonnay that would be a great idea on for a holiday party or a by-the-glass list at a restaurant that doesn’t shy away from spice. (88 points) 

2008 La Scolca Gavi D’Antan - Italy, Piedmont, Gavi
SRP: $100
Deep lemon color. The aromas have such a dynamic and shifting display, with spiced tea, honey, and bread crumbs over lemon and orange peels and these chalky, saline-infused elements. The palate shows deep texture, a honeyed feel but so taut and nervy as well, with orange peel and lemon curd. There’s this stony, mineral, salty essence throughout that is great, and complex elements of white tea, mint and umami come out with time. Fascinating and delicious, worth seeking out if you’re into unique, aged whites. Their flagship white from Rovereto in Gavi, it’s a Cortese that’s aged for 10 years before release. (94 points)

Reds

2019 Seña - Chile, Aconcagua Valley
SRP: $125
Deep purple color. Beautiful, deep aromas of plums, black currants and tart wild blueberries, supported by a complex host of mint, anise, coffee, loamy soil, tobacco and campfire – a ton going on here. Grippy tannins, refined edges, and vibrant acidity makes for a tangy, dark and balanced wine. The plum, currant and black cherry fruit is tangy and pure, laced with mesquite, black pepper, loamy earth and graphite, roasted red pepper. The complexity of flavors is matched with seamless integration, and this wine, while expressive now, deserves a few years and a really good decant to show its stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 21% Malbec, 15% Carmenere, 4% Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 80% new French oak. (94 points)

2014 Azienda Agricola Spadafora Nero d'Avola Schietto - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane
SRP: $45
Medium purple color. The nose is delightfully spicy, like grilled meats topped in black pepper, anise, tar, menthol, over a deep core of saucy plum and black fruit, showing nuanced of age but liveliness for the cellar. On the palate, the tannins are refined and dusty, backed up by tart currant and mulled black cherry fruit. I get a lot of pepper, clove, campfire, anise and clay/earthy tones, along with floral potpourri. Complex, delicious, lovely mouthfeel, this is a Nero d’Avola that offers a lot to ponder and enjoy, and I’d be interested to see what this does with another few years in the cellar, too. (92 points)

2020 Caldora Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $15
Bright purple color. Aromas of juicy cherries, raspberry and strawberry jam, along with rose petals, white pepper, a friendly, inviting aromatic display. Ripe tannins and medium acidity make for a vibrant but chewy feel with black cherries and raspberry jam fruit. Juicy and fun but shows some nice complexity in terms of pepper, violets, clove, tar and some dried rose petals. A lively, crowd-pleasing Montepulicano at a very reasonable price. Aged nine months in oak. (87 points)

2020 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti Le Orme - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti
SRP: $18
Vibrant ruby color. Lovely fruit on the nose (juicy blackberries, spiced cranberry relish) with secondary notes of pepper, savory broth, bright red flowers, some earthy tones. Vibrant acidity, a juicy feel with smooth tannins, it makes for a balanced and lively wine. Tangy black cherries and bright red plum fruit mix with tobacco, clay, fallen leaves, adding lots of complexity and depth. Crowd-pleasing but offers nerds a lot to love, too, this is a great bottle to add to the holiday gathering table. Really solid value. (90 points)

2018 Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $40
Bright purple color. The nose shows juicy black cherries, red currants, laced with charcoal, tar, tobacco, balanced with this brighter floral and spicy herbal tones. Structured well, delightfully chewy tannins and moderate-plus acidity makes for a juicy but fresh wine with raspberries, black cherries and currant fruit. Complex notes of tobacco, sage, black olive, violets and black pepper add complexity, but they need air and some time to show their stuff. Drink now or hold for a while, but this is a solid Chianti Classico. (91 points)

2011 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
SRP: $130
Deep purple color. An amazing aromatic display of tart currants, roasted figs, sweet black cherries, with a host of complex herbal tea, violets, toffee, chewing tobacco, and these rocky/earthy tones. Lots to ponder and sniff with air. Full and deep on the palate, solid grip, while the moderate acidity keeps it focused. Pure, deep fruit (plums, currants, roasted figs and boysenberry) mix with delicious flavors of clove, violet, tobacco, soy and mushroom tones, and there’s a stony, gravelly, mineral vibe underneath that is delightful. 80% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, aged six years and oak and a year in bottle, this will age gracefully for many years, or enjoy over a few cold nights. (95 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Shining 2020s from California

2020 was a challenging year everywhere. In California, growers and vintners had to deal with a lot of their own: the novel coronavirus’ impacts, heat waves, wildfires in parts of the state. And while conditions were varied across the vast growing regions, a lot of the yields were lower. From what I’m hearing and tasting so far, the fruit quality seems to be really high and the resulting wines are very pretty and expressive.

Sonoma’s Merry Edwards likely needs no introduction here – I’ve focused on their wines before and will continue to do so because, well, they’re great. I’ve been a huge fan of their Pinots for about 15 years now, and the 2020s are stunners, and a great follow-up to the epic 2019s.

Another reliable Pinot producer, Siduri, brings some value-driven Pinot to the table. I had always been a fan of their single vineyard bottlings, but these appellation-level wines (from Anderson Valley, Santa Barbara and Willamette in Oregon) offer a nice snapshot of the region at an enticing price.

And to round things out, I also have an exceptional Chardonnay from Sonoma’s Chalk Hill.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Diverse Australian Shiraz from Two Hands

Syrah is my favorite grape, and I love all of its great iterations.

In a world of increasing uncertainty and change, I find Two Hands wines to be refreshingly reliable. I first tried Two Hands in 2007 or so, and I was a newb and venturing into more “serious” bottles while trying to spend my money wisely. That’s when I tasted some of Two Hands’ Australian Shiraz, and I was hooked. A few years later, I shared a 2002 Ares Shiraz with friends, and the wine and experience was exquisite. It was such a memorable, singular bottle and time that I became a life-long fan.

That said, it had actually been a while since I opened a Two Hands wines, so I was excited to attend a virtual tasting with co-founder Michael Twelftree. When he and his co-founder decided in 1999 to pursue making great Aussie Shiraz and marketing it to the world, I wonder if they imagined it would turn out so well. As a lover and student of wine, I respect what this winery’s approach, from the consistency of quality (of course – that’s first), to the diverse lines of wine they produce, to the whimsical yet meaningful names, the label design and marketing. It seems like a team that take their work very seriously, but not themselves too seriously.

Coming from a background in construction, Michael fell in love with wine at an in-store tasting (just like me) and said, “this magical world of wine unfolded before me.” He continued: “We are always trying to think of everything we do through the consumer’s perspective.” Its a stated goal that rings true to me, as a consumer of these wines.

A long-time player in the U.S. market, he also acknowledged it can be difficult to convey regional differences in South Australia, from the purple-fruited but coastal-influenced McLaren Vale wines to the deeper, more concentrated juice from Barossa. But the more time you spend with these wines, especially when tasting them together, those regional nuances and signatures start to become evident. While I drink far more Syrah from France and the U.S., I love that Two Hands consistently provides Shiraz (and other wines), that speak so eloquently of their place.

While the winery has expanded to acquire new sites in recent years, I found the same quality and vibrancy in this recent tasting that I remember from years and years ago. The alcohol is kept in check, which makes these wines lively and refreshing, and the oak is also used sparingly and efficiently.

If you’ve never tried Two Hands, or if you’re of the opinion Australian wines just aren’t for you anymore, I’d urge you to reconsider. As long as this crew continues doing what they’re doing, there will always be a welcome spot on this Cornas-lover’s table for Two Hands wines.

These wines (all 100% Shiraz) were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Two Hands Shiraz Angels’ Share - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $44
Concentrated purple color with a gorgeous nose of plum cake, blueberries, blackberries, doused in anise, black pepper, scorched earth, mint and cocoa – and the mix is really pleasurable. Full but smooth on the palate with chewy tannins, lively acidity, well-balanced. The fruit is ripe but nuanced and complex, with blackberries, blueberries, plum compote, mixed with interesting notes of black pepper glaze, anise, soy, sauteed mushrooms and earth. The depth is really nice but I really enjoy the refreshing and accessible feel as well. Aged 14 months in 12% new French oak, 14.2% alcohol. (90 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz Gnarly Dudes - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $49
Deep purple. Tart but deep fruit on the nose (currants and blueberries), along with complexities of violet petals, clove and black pepper. The palate is structured well with smooth-edged tannins and a tart, crunchy appeal to set the stage for the juicy blueberry and dark plum fruit. Tar, violets, pepper, roasted herbs, smoked meats, but really fresh and lively throughout. Juicy but lip-smacking, this is a delightful Shiraz that should hold up nicely as well. Aged 12 months in 13% new French oak, 14% alcohol. (91 points)

2018 Two Hands Shiraz Bella's Garden - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $79
Vibrant purple color. Deep and smoky on the nose, with a mix of tart blueberries and black currants, laced with potting soil, scorched earth, eucalyptus and mint, rocky-graphite tones. The palate shows smooth but structured tannins, balanced acidity, and plenty of tart plum, blueberry fruit and black currants, everything lines up really well together. Complexities of tar, chewing tobacco, beef brisket, pepper, paprika – there’s so much nuanced savory goodness in here. Finishes with spiced black tea and violets. Really beautiful stuff that is drinking great right now. Aged 17 months in 13% new French oak, 13.8% alcohol. (93 points)

2018 Two Hands Shiraz Lily's Garden - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $79
Gorgeous purple color. The layers of fruit on the nose are so enticing, with juicy black cherries, dark plums and wild blueberries, along with complex spiced tea, tar, violets, rose petals and earthy-clay tones. The palate is so lively and crisp, which keeps this wine racing forward, and it’s balanced with deep but tart fruit (black cherries, currants, dark plums), and a bed of smooth tannins. The spiced tea, rose petals, tar, black pepper and bacon tones are vibrant and nuanced. The elegance here is really something, and while this is already strutting its stuff, I’d love to see this in four years or so. Aged 17 months in 13% new French oak, 13.8% alcohol. (94 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz 'Yacca Block' Mengler's Hill - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
SRP: $110
Deep purple color. Gorgeous nose of deep blueberry and tangy black cherry, laced with complex notes of mesquite, clay soil, black pepper, violet potpourri, clove and cinnamon, and just an airy and inviting appeal despite the depth and concentration. Full-bodied, nice concentration, vibrant acidity, the balance is delightful, long-aging but a lot to show. Tart blueberries and juicy blackberry fruit, so deep but fresh, and a lot else to unpack: black pepper, tar, violets, smoky earth and eucalyptus tones. This will age wonderfully, but a vibrant, beautiful Shiraz. From a higher elevation site in Eden Valley, this is aged 12 months in 20% new French oak (95 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz 'Coach House Block' Seppeltsfield Road, Greenock - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $110
Concentrated purple color. The nose on this is really rocking and spicy, with these beefy, smoked sausage, black pepper, anise and paprika tones over top waves of tangy blueberries and black cherries. The palate has great grip and structure but the acidity sings, and the balance is on-point. A tart core of blueberries and blackberries, gorgeous fruit, mixed with complexities of leather, tar, anise, menthol and graphite. Hints of cocoa and smoked meat round out the finish. Concentrated but beautiful Barossa goodness, give this air and or five to eight years, but it’s a special one. Aged 12 months in 20% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

California on the mind: special selections

California has been on my mind a lot lately. I’ve been following harvest reports and wineries as they prepare the 2022 vintage. And with the long-term drought, the recent heat wave, and now there’s a threat of flooding from hurricane leftovers? Sheesh! I hope you any California readers have been staying cool and well over this stretch.

So, this week, I have some really special wines from California to share – some chosen selections from producers I’ve grown to respect and appreciate.

Singer Wines at Baker Lane Estate really comes out swinging with two exceptional Rhone wines. Made by legend Stephen Singer, the wines from this west-facing site in the Sebastopol Hills speak with a crystal-clear voice to their place and grapes. If you’re looking for highly delicious yet nuanced Syrah and Viognier, these small-production wines are definitely worth your time and money.

Eden Rift makes some focused and singular Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and it was a privilege to taste their 2019s. From the limestone-rich soils of the Cienega Valley, these are wines you taste and can just tell they come from a very special place. Especially considering the prices, the wines consistently overperform, and the 2019s are singing.

Sonoma is well represented here, including by Sonoma-Cutrer’s new Grand Brut Rosé, which certainly overdelivers for the price. LaPelle performs with a striking Bien Nacido Pinot Noir, and DuMOL’s Pinot offering is also delightful. Lastly, I also have a Paso Robles Cab that’s a whole lot of fun -- Tooth and Nail’s wines are reliably delicious and this Cab is like a chunky slab of rock-and-roll in the glass, for a solid price.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Grand Brut Rosé Winemaker's Release - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep copper color. A gorgeous aromatic display that combines raspberries, white cherries and tart yellow apples with richer tones of honey and biscuits and bracing elements of chalk and talc. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy, pure and racy, with a core of red apple, raspberry and white cherry fruit. The balance is delightful, and it has this deep but crunchy feel, with tones of biscuits, honey and hay tossed with seashells, minerals, flowers, combining for this ocean meets spring meadow appeal. Complex and nervy, this should age wonderfully and is one of the best California sparkling wines I’ve tasted in a while. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. (93 points)

2021 Singer Wine Viognier Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $75
Medium yellow color. Classic deep Viognier aromas, but it has a lot of unique twists and turns that are a delight to follow: banana, kiwi, white peach, with honeycomb and raw almond, notes of chalk dust and sea salt. On the palate – wow! – the acidity is racy and fresh (thankfully) which balances well with the deep, waxy texture and juicy papaya and pineapple fruit (a drizzle of lime in there, too). The floral tones are perfumed but nuanced, and tones of chalk dust and saline are welcomed. Creamy but fresh, a delightful Sonoma Viognier worth seeking out. From a cool, west-facing site that really shines through, this is 13.8% alcohol and aged five months in neutral oak. (93 points)

2019 Singer Wine Syrah Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The nose is delightfully spicy, with these paprika, red pepper flakes and black pepper dusted over a host of fresh blueberries and tart red plums – and it works so, so well. The tangy acidity sets the stage, dusty but structured tannins offer structure and grip, while the balance and freshness are on point. Tangy blackberries and red/black currant fruit mixes with lots of violets, clove, black pepper, with loamy earth and a hint of barbecue sauce and grilled meat. Spicy, fresh, floral, delicious, this will do wonders in the cellar, too. 15% whole cluster fermentation, includes 2% Viognier, aged 26 months in 450-liter puncheons, 13.8% alcohol. (94 points)

2020 DuMOL Pinot Noir Wester Reach Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Medium ruby color. So alive on the nose including red cherries, plums and raspberries, with a complex web of spice and floral elements (rose hips, rhubarb, cola, white pepper, tobacco, sage). The palate shows crisp acidity and smooth, structured tannins with a juicy, fresh appeal. The raspberry, red apple and cherry fruit is crunchy and zesty, and it mixes well with complexities of earth, rhubarb, tomato leaf, with nuanced cola, roasted chestnut and birch elements. Vibrant, forward but earthy and dusty. This should do nicely with three or four years in the cellar but it’s expressive already. A blend from vineyards including Flax Estate, DuMol Estate, Occidental Road and others, aged 12 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Eden Rift Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $42
Rich gold color. The aromas are so bright and spritely, with chalk dust, yellow flowers, meadow breeze, with lemons, limes and pineapple. Pure and crisp on the palate, a zippy yet creamy mouthfeel, delightful balance. The yellow apple, lime and papaya fruit blends well with flinty minerals, clover, honey, accents of almond and candle wax. Deep texture but stays racy and feels effortless throughout. So much Chardonnay goodness for the price. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $48
Bright ruby color. On the nose, this is airy and floral, and I get tart cranberry relish, pomegranate fruit and red cherries. Full of seasonings and spices (white pepper, clove, rhubarb, celery seed), and the combination is invigorating. On the palate, this is smooth and silky but structured, with lip-smacking acidity and a bright, balanced feel. Tangy raspberries and red apple peel, such pretty texture and mouthfeel, with elements of clay, rhubarb, dusty earth, rose petals and white pepper. This will age marvelously. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Palmtag Block - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley

SRP: $78
Gorgeous ruby color. So breezy and floral on the nose, yet such depth, too: rose hips, rhubarb, white pepper, oregano and basil over top of crunchy cranberry and wild raspberry fruit. Crisp acidity and fine-grained tannins make for a pure and balanced wine, and the red fruit is vibrant and alive (cranberry, red apple, raspberry). Complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, paprika and white pepper add a lot to ponder, and the mouthfeel is fantastic. Their first single-block Pinot, from between the flatter vineyards and the terraces. A real beauty that has a lot more to show in the cellar. (95 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Vibrant purple color. Juicy but pretty on the nose with cherries and plum sauce, along with savory and spicy elements of clove, anise, creosote and pepper – has a real grill-out vibe that is a ton of fun. Suave on the palate with enough acidity to keep it lively and a chewy but nuanced feel. Blackberry, raspberry and fig fruit meld well with tones of tar, roasted red pepper and graphite. Ripe and fun but quite complex and balanced as well. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak, this bottle has an augmented reality character-driven label as well. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: locals' summer selections

Happy Labor Day weekend! I, for one, am excited to see September again. We finally got a break from the heat and humidity here in the Mid-Atlantic region, and I’m sure the autumnal decorations and pumpkin spice will be arriving en masse soon.

Growing up two blocks from the beach on the Jersey Shore, we called September “locals’ summer,” and it was my favorite time. The tourists tended to clear out from our beach town while the air and water temperatures stayed delightful all through September. And we still have about three weeks of summer left (meteorologically speaking), so there’s plenty of time to hit the ocean, the lake, the river, or gather up family and friends for a grill-out.

As such, here’s a handful of wines that I’d welcome to any locals’ summer gathering.

I’ve got another Alentejo white this week because, well, they are delightful and fit the bill. And a Godello from Pagos del Galir in Spain will certainly keep the summer vibes going.

Rosé needs a place at the table (or beach), so I’ve got an exceptional offering from Sonoma’s Ram’s Gate and delicious pinks from Languedoc and Provence. I also have some crushable bubbles with an impressive Cava from Poema, and some value-driven Northern Italian wines with Corvezzo’s offerings.

As the evenings get cooler, I’m looking forward to some juicy, spicy red wines, and Chile is a great place to go. I’ve enjoyed the serious depth and value found from the Primus label, imported by Gonzalez Byass. Sourcing organically grown Cabernet and Carmenere from Apalta and Maipo, these wines provide grill-friendly appeal, plenty of stony, earthy complexity, all with very moderate price tags.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites and bubbles

2020 Quinta da Fonte Souto Portalegre Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Portalegre
SRP: $26
Deep yellow color. The nose is packed with goodness. I get richer tones of honey, almond and baked bread, pineapples, with brighter and fresher notes of lemon, sea salt, and white flowers. The palate shows a creamy texture, supporter by lively acidity, and the lemon, papaya and pineapple fruit is ripe but tangy. The notes of chalk, honey, hay, nougat, crushed oyster shells and white flowers add a lot to love and contemplate. This is versatile, delicious and beautiful, and I think it should age nicely for a while as well. Arinto with 25% Verdelho, and 60% of the wine was fermented in oak on the lees. (92 points)

2020 Virgen del Galir Godello Pagos del Galir - Spain, Galicia, Valdeorras
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Beautiful fruit salad aromas of yellow apple, kiwi and white peach, along with fresh basil, chalk dust and mountain streams. The palate has delightful zestiness and a crisp texture but plenty of depth, with yellow apples, lemons and limes, white peach fruit. Accents of white flowers, basil, honey and sliced cucumber add a pleasant, fresh touch. Focused, fresh, complex, this Godello delivers. Aged six months in stainless steel and barrels. (90 points)

N.V. Poema Cava Brut - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Rich yellow color. Lovely nose, a mix of spritely and deeper tones, with limestone and river rocks, hay, yellow flowers, over orange peels, lemon and papaya. Crisp and clear on the palate, the acidity is really bright and the palate has this pleasantly creamy texture with fine bubbles. Pears, lemon and papaya fruit mix with clean, stony, mineral-laden goodness. There’s a ton of complexity packed in here for the price. Xarel·lo, Macabeu, and Parellada, aged 12 months on the lees. (89 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Pinot Grigio Organic & Vegan - Italy, Delle Venezie
SRP: $13
Medium yellow color. Super floral on the nose with all sorts of yellow and white flowers, mixed with nettle and cucumber slices, over zesty lemon and green apple fruit. Racy acidity on the palate with a creamy feel and flavors of white peaches and kiwi. Notes of rosewater, celery seed and white pepper add some complexity. Bright, spritely, floral and fresh. (85 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Prosecco - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Treviso
SRP: $13
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemons and green apples, with floral perfume, sea salt, crushed sweet tarts and some white pepper. Fun and fresh, light and crisp with moderate sugar and bright acidity, along with lemon and melon fruit. Floral, fresh, accessible and pleasant. (86 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Prosecco Rosé - Italy, Veneto/Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pale salmon color. The nose shows chalky, crushed sweet tart vibes and honeysuckle with raspberries and lemons. Light-bodied, zesty acidity and juicy bubbles with raspberry and white cherry fruit. Notes of honeysuckle, rose petals, floral perfume and sweet tarts. Fun and fresh, light and balanced Prosecco. (87 points)

Rosé

2021 Les Sarrins Côtes de Provence Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. This smells floral and bright, with white peaches and lemons, honeysuckle and lilies, with some sliced cucumber and celery seed notes. The palate is light, crisp and refreshing, with lemon, cantaloupe and white peach fruit. I get a lot of cool spicy and floral elements, like dandelion, white pepper, honeysuckle and mint, which adds a nice interesting kick. Fun, crowd-pleasing stuff that shows solid value but also a lot of depth and complexity. Made from Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Vermentino. (90 points)

2021 Ram's Gate Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $38
Light watermelon color. The nose has exquisite tones of chalk dust, saline, flowers for days, rose hips, white pepper, all over top a bowl of fresh white cherries and strawberries. Pure and racy on the palate, this has pleasant creaminess and live-wire acidity, and the balance is lovely. White cherries, raspberries and red apple fruit, tingly, crunchy and alive, backed up with complexities of chalk, mountain stream, limestone. A focused, zesty, crystal clear rose – no rush on emptying these soon, either, as I’d love to try one next summer to see how it has developed. Pinot Noir with 25% Grenache, aged six months in neutral oak barrels. (92 points)

2021 Hampton Water Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. The nose is spritely and alive, sporting wild raspberry and red apple peel, along with floral perfume and chalky, salty vibes. Crisp as expected but it also has nice textural depth, with flavors of tangy white cherries and juicy raspberries. Notes of daisies, honeysuckle, dandelion and some slight green herb tones add complexity. Bright but shows some honeyed elements as well, this is beach and seafood friendly stuff. A collaboration between winemaker Gérard Bertrand, Jon Bon Jovi and his son Jesse Bongiovi. (88 points)

Reds

2018 Primus Cabernet Sauvignon - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $21
Vibrant purple color. A deep core of tart black currant and black cherry fruit, tossed with tobacco leaf, violet petals, roasted red pepper and tomato leaf – smelling it just makes me want to grill steak and veg. A tart mix of plum and currant fruit on the palate is buttressed by moderately grippy tannins and vibrant acidity. The tones of smoky earth, tar, violets, soy and tobacco add a lot to ponder and enjoy. A lot of freshness and complexity in here. Aged 12 months in French oak, 18% new. (89 points)

2018 Primus Carménère - Chile, Colchagua Valley, Apalta
SRP: $21
Bright purple color. Lovely nose of raspberries and black cherries, topped in a cool mix of spicy bell pepper, black pepper, sage, with nuances of vanilla and cola. Juicy texture, nice grip on the palate but everything stays smooth, with delightful freshness as well. The cranberry relish and black currant fruit is deep and tangy, laced with black pepper, anise, smoky tones and tobacco. Really love this grape and this iteration of it. Aged 12 months in 18% new French oak. (90 points)

2018 Primus The Blend - Chile, Colchagua Valley, Apalta
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Ooh, the nose gushes with sweet cherries, dark plums, and complexities of black pepper, clove, rose potpourri, violet and clay. The palate is super suave with smooth but structured tannins and lively acidity. Fresh plums and cherries, backed up with cocoa, coffee, gravelly earth, and a mix of deep floral and spice tones to unpack. A delightfully balanced and pretty Chilean red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Carmenere, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in 2/3 French oak for 12 months. (90 points)

2020 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Organic - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $17
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of cherries and plum compote, and a fun and spicy mix of tobacco, spiced tea, paprika, tomato leaf and rose hips. Chewy tannins on the palate, moderate acidity, and juicy plum and currant fruit makes for a nicely-balanced, medium-bodied wine. Savory tones of beef, bay leaf and pepper mix with roses and violet petals, some chewing tobacco and mint. A great intro Rioja at a solid price. Aged six months in oak. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.