Wine Reviews: International Values

I’m looking forward to exploring more diverse wines and regions in 2023, so I’m starting off this week with a few such selections. In the coming weeks, I’ll be diving deeper into a bunch of South American wines, but this week I’ve got a nice round-up from all over. And they’re all in the $15-$35 range.

Winemaker power couple Bob Lindquist and Louisa Sawyer Lindquist have a really cool project called Vara. Based in Albuquerque, New Mexico, they source grapes from spots in Spain and California. Louisa’s experience with Spanish varieties brings them grapes from selected estates in regions like Ribera del Duero and Montsant, while Bob’s California experience brings in the good stuff from Central Coast vineyards like Santa Maria Valley and Paso Robles. It’s a bit different, of course, tasting a wine sourced from different regions and countries, but I think these experiments work out really well. The wines are delicious and different, and worth seeking out if you’re looking to try new things in 2023.

When it comes to vibrant, inexpensive Sauvignon Blancs, South Africa and Chile are my go-to countries. And this week I have some Chilean options from Leyda Valley, a region that sits just a handful of miles from the Pacific coast. Here, Viña Leyda’s winemaker Viviana Navarrette focuses on producing coastal-influenced, taut, vibrant Sauvignon Blanc from mostly granitic soils. They offer up crunchy, spicy, sea salty deliciousness with a lot of value and serve as a great introduction to this region’s Sauvignon Blanc goodness.

I’m a big fan of everything Portugal, and the amount of consistent and quality wines I find. And the value is always appreciated. This week’s selections from Douro’s Casa Ferreirinha deliver just what I look for.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Leyda Sauvignon Blanc Reserva – Chile, San Antonio Valley, Leyda Valley
SRP: $15
Pale straw color. The nose pops with lemons and limes, white peach, guava, topped in hay, sea salt, lots of floral tones and some white pepper as well. The palate is racy but creamy, light and fresh but nice depth of texture and flavors. The lemons, kiwi and crunchy green apple fruit are delicious, and they mix well with white flowers, sea salt, dandelions, along with some spicy green herbs and sliced jalapeno. Lively, spritely, and solid complexity for the price. (88 points) 

2021 Leyda Sauvignon Blanc Coastal Vineyards Garuma – Chile, San Antonio Valley, Leyda Valley
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. So fresh and bright on the nose with gooseberry, ruby red grapefruit and kiwi, dusted in white pepper, chalk dust, white flowers and some sliced green onion and mint. Crisp and racy on the palate with lively acidity and a nice fruit salad composed of white peach slices, pineapple chunks, drizzled with ruby red grapefruit juice. I love the herbal tones (like ramp leaves and sliced bell pepper) along with white flowers, chalk dust and a distinct saline and mineral infusion that lingers long on the finish. A lot of personality and class, especially for the price. (90 points)

2019 Casa Ferreirinha Douro Branco Papa Figos – Portugal, Douro
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. A lemony nose with papaya and green apples, white flowers, hay, mint, some sea salt and pleasant new tennis ball. Lovely depth and a creamy feel mix with crisp acidity and a chalky sense, too. Racy and vibrant with some minerals and talc tones to accent the creamier vibes, and there’s a nice blend of white and yellow flowers. Precise, clean, seafood-friendly stuff and an excellent value and a delightful Douro Branco. (89 points)

2018 Casa Ferreirinha Douro Tinto Vinha Grande – Portugal, Douro
SRP: $22
Light purple color. The nose pops with deep plums, dark currants and jammy black cherries, along with a lovely smoky earthy vibe, gravelly, dusty tones, with violets and clove accents. The palate shows vibrant acidity and moderate tannins, nice grip but fresh and balanced throughout. The currant and plum fruit is deep and tangy, and backed up with delightful earth, graphite, gravel and tar elements. And some violets, mushroom and menthol tones are already coming out, so this will do nicely over the next few years. Serious value! A blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca. (89 points)

2020 Vara Tempranillo Vino Tinto Español – Spain
SRP: $30
Medium ruby color. Aromas of jammy raspberry and black cherries, along with spicy red pepper, tobacco, sweet coffee and warm clay – really interesting. Ripe tannins, medium acidity, a fresh and chewy feel but plenty of depth and freshness, too. The raspberry and cherry fruit is ripe but tangy, and the non-fruit complexities are great: anise, violets, spicy herbs, earthy tones, gingerbread and coffee – a lot to enjoy, and it’s balanced and blended together well. A mix of Tempranillo and Garnacha with some Mencía, Cariñena, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. From Spain, 45% of the fruit comes from Campo de Borja and 30% from Monstant, while the remaining 25% of the fruit is sourced from the Central Valley of California. (90 points)

2020 Vara Garnacha Vino Tinto Español – Spain
SRP: $28
Bright ruby color. The nose gushes with red and black cherries, ripe but nicely chilled, with rose petals, cola, pepper, dusty earth and tobacco leaf. The palate has a ripe and accessible feel, but buttressed by lively and surprising acidity. Cherries, red plums and raspberries, the fruit is juicy and bright and mixed with notes of pepper, dried rose petals, pine and tobacco. Delightful mouthfeel, fun and invigorating. This is an interesting mix of Garnacha with some Cariñena, Monastrell, Mencía, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. 77% of the blend comes from Monstant in Spain and the remainder is from California’s Central Coast. A kitchen sink of goodness. (90 points)

2021 Vara Albariño – USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $32
Light yellow color. The aromas show a fresh mix of green and yellow pears, white peach, lime, with all sorts of wildflowers, honeysuckle, breezy meadow and mint – delightful. The palate has such a pleasant creaminess, which balances well with this bright acidity and flinty, mineral-laden component. Yellow apples, kiwi and lime fruit plays well with these white tea and honeyed tones. There are chalky and mineral vibes that linger long on the finish. Lovely depth of flavor and texture for this grape as well. All Albariño from the Sawyer-Lindquist Vineyard in Edna Valley. Delightful stuff from Louisa, an Albariño evangelist and specialist. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Italian Values

If you’re doing a dry January – congratulations! You’re halfway through. Whether you’re imbibing this month or not, the post-holiday season is a nice time to take stock of things, and to stock up on some options for the cellar.

Late last year, I tasted through a half-dozen Italian reds that got me thinking: “Wow, I’d be happy with six apiece of these in my cellar.” From Marche to Puglia, these wines come from well-known, family-owned producers and offer a lot of diversity. They’re all imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, which has amassed an impressive portfolio and imports directly from the producers themselves. So, if you’re resolving to save money in 2023, I bet at least a few of these delicious reds would fit the bill perfectly.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2021 Garofoli Rosso Piceno “Farnio” – Italy, Marche, Rosso Piceno
SRP: $13
Bright purple color. Saucy nose with a cool mix of jammy blueberries, juicy raspberries and blackberries, along with some dried rose petals and pepper, and an almost Beaujolais-esque blend of bubblegum and violets – lots of fun. Juicy, dark and ripe on the palate, this has smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, supporting juicy blackberry and blueberry fruit. I like the graphite, mint, smoke and earthy nuances. Chewy but lively, this is a lot of fun. And, after all, fun is a good thing. A blend of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Sangiovese. (88 points IJB)

2021 Masseria Li Veli “Orion” Salento IGT – Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT

SRP: $15
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with red cherries, juicy plums and jammy raspberries, along with spicy, smoky, tar and barbecue sauce elements, which are a lot of fun. Ripe tannins and medium acidity, this wine sports a ripe and juicy appeal with black cherries and raspberry jam. The mix of spice and earth tones offers a lot to enjoy and ponder, including notes of pepperoni, mesquite, mocha and some toasted oak. Fun and fan-friendly, but it shows a lot of complexity, too. (89 points)

2020 Casanova di Neri “IrRosso di Casanova di Neri” – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. Lovely aromas of bright red currants, jammy raspberries, laced with an enticing mix of spicy tobacco, sweet rose petals, clove, bay leaf and cracked pepper. The palate is ripe and juicy but balanced and nuanced, with dusty tannins and tangy acidity. The fruit shows tangy raspberries and deep currant fruit, and it has a sense of vibrancy and balance. The notes of clay, tilled soil, leather, clove, dried roses and pepper add a lot to enjoy and contemplate. Complex yet accessible, this is a great intro to this house’s wines, and could be a great option for a case buy/house wine of your own if you’re a fan of this style. Sangiovese with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2019 Aia Vecchia “Lagone” – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $17
Deep purple color. Spicy nose showing earth, tobacco and mint, with deep elements of blackberries and currants, some chocolate and coffee tones as well. Full on the palate, a chewy feel balanced by lively acidity. Saucy currant and roasted plum fruit blends well with cocoa, coffee grounds, tobacco, mint. The earthy, spicy and mushroom tones come out with time. Fun, fresh, but shows a solid amount of complexity. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. (89 points)

2018 Tenuta di Capezzana “Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano” – Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $32
Vibrant purple color. Lovely nose of currants and black cherries, mixed with mulling spices, leather, violets, spiced black tea, and it’s all warm, deep, inviting and savory. The palate shows nice grip but the tannins have rounded edges, buttressed by medium acidity. Deep currants and black cherry fruit, tossed with fallen leaves, clay, loamy earth and plenty of spice and savory nuance. Nice concentration but opens up well, and I love the complexities of stones, mineral, campfire and grilled meat. This is cold weather and braised meat sort of wine that will age well, too. Love it! A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. (91 points)

2020 Inama Carménère “Più” – Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $21
Light purple color. The nose shows lovely smoky, beefy, black pepper-crusted notes, over raspberries, red plums, earth and tar elements. The palate shows suave tannins and medium acidity with a plush, chewy, but vibrant feel – all nicely balanced. The plum and black cherry fruit is ripe and deep, and mixes well with notes of sage, black pepper, smoky earth, even some sauteed mushrooms and anise tones. Delicious and fun, but sports a lot of complexity as well, and this will improve in the cellar for at least five years. I’m thankful this wine exists, and that Inama has kept the interesting and delicious history of Italian Carmenère alive. And the value here is something else. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.