An "orange" wine for Autumn and Halloween

Orange wine has been on the rise in terms of availability and popularity for a long time now. When I first started getting into wine about 15 years ago, it was really hard to find orange wines. I was scoping out wines from northern Italy, Georgia, and Spain to find odd but delightful skin-fermented wines. Some of them were a bit, as I like to say, “feral” for the average palate – bracing, taut, spicy, volatile, sometimes overly earthy or just wild. And while I still like some of those orange wines, the accessibility and diversity of these wines has grown with their popularity. And I think that’s a good thing.

Isn't Autumn great? Rock Creek Park, Washington, DC. October 27, 2023

Basically, an “orange” wine is generally a “white” grape that spends some duration of time in contact with the skins, a process which extracts colors and other textural elements similar to how one makes a “red” wine. Just like white wines aren’t white, orange wines aren’t orange. Like a diverse deciduous forest at this time of year, orange wines come in all sorts of fascinating colors.

I recently tasted a wine that sums up what I’m trying to say about orange wines. It’s delicious, accessible, but has a lot of interesting characteristics. And its price makes it a great place to start diving into the world of orange wines. From Kivelstadt Cellars, I have a single-vineyard, skin-fermented Pinot Grigio from a single vineyard in California’s Clarksburg appellation, beside the Sacramento River. I visited this area near Sacramento a few years ago, and was impressed by the diversity of old vines and different varieties, and I fell in love with the old school California, blue collar, farming scene, one that produces legit wines. Pinot Grigio is a great grape for skin contact, the this “gray” grape’s skin provides a lot of depth, flavor, and color to extract. This wine was macerated on the skins for 13 days, then pressed and fermented in old oak for six months.

This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.

2022 KivelStadt Cellars Skin-Fermented Pinot Grigio Wayward Son Pintail Ranch - USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg
$35
A deep copper/watermelon. The nose exudes a mix of watermelon rind, cantaloupe, limes, with chunky pineapples, mixed with cool tones of white flowers, sea salt, chalk dust, and some honey vibes. The palate is ripe and vibrant with flavors of white cherries, raspberries, strawberries, and orange peels. The fruit is accented with tones of rhubarb, floral perfume, celery seed, watermelon candy, honeyed tea, all sorts of cool flavors and textures to enjoy and parse through. Lots of fun, food-friendly, and a great wine to bring to a Halloween party. (90 points)

Italian wines for spooky season

Spooky season is here, and I love it. October is one of my favorite times of the year – the cool nights, changing leaves, planning out the Halloween festivities with friends and family. I spent Saturday hiking, climbing, and checking out the fall foliage in Shenandoah National Park. On Sunday, I got some pumpkins, trick-or-treater candy, and braised a pork shoulder.

To fit with the autumnal vibes, I’ve had the pleasure of tasting through some warm, savory, fall-friendly wines from Italy. The wines of Amarone really hit the spot with cooler weather, braised meats, and gatherings of family and friends, and I have a few this week that would be perfect for such occasions. These Veneto blends of Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes are some of my favorites for colder weather sipping. I recently took a deep dive into the wines of a producer that is new to me, Brigaldara. The Cesari family has owned this winery since 1928, and (from what I can tell) they make energetic, exciting expressions of their terroir. One of the things I love about this region is the variety of wines and appellations, allowing a producer to put out inexpensive, entry-level bottles for early consumption (Valpolicella DOC) all the way up to the age-worthy big boys.

With the holidays coming up soon, it’s also a great time to stock up on sparkling wines. Champagne is my go-to, but my radar is always searching for classic method sparkling wines that offer value, personality, and speak to their terroir. And in this category, Trentodoc wines excel. Made from high-elevation vineyards at the foot of the Dolomites in northern Italy, these wines provide precision, mineral intensity, crunchy fruits, and lots of pleasure for pretty much any sparkling wine drinker.

And I have a delightful Chianti from Tenuta Perano to round things out. These wines were received as samples the Brigaldara wines were tasted single blind while the others were tasted sighted.

2019 Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
$33
Light purple color. Juicy and ripe on the nose with rich black cherries and plum sauce, laced with menthol, cinnamon, gingerbread, with black tea, tobacco, and sage – deep and inviting. Smooth tannins frame the wine well, with medium acidity, and a juicy, dark stage of black cherries, plum sauce, and raspberries. The fruit blends well with tones of dark chocolate, coffee grounds, magic marker, anise, black pepper, black tea. Lovely stuff that needs some air, braised meat, and a cold night to show its best. Should age really nicely, too, but delicious young. Sangiovese and Merlot aged two years in oak. (90 points) 

2022 Brigaldara Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella
$18
Medium ruby color. Aromas pop with mulled cherries and strawberries, along with clay, black pepper, some sweet coffee, charcoal, along with roses and violets, all sorts of herbs. The palate is fresh and fun with medium-tannins and vibrant acidity. The fruit exemplifies in the form of mulled plums, spiced cranberry relish, with sour cherries. Notes of anise, black pepper, sweet coffee, graphite, some inky, stony vibes. A delightful introduction to this region and this producer, and this is a serious value. (88 points)

2021 Brigaldara Valpolicella Superiore Case Vecie - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
$34

Bright ruby color. Spicy aromatic display with tart cranberry relish, crushed raspberry, strawberry jam, mixed with smoky, earthy, peppery, saucy vibes – but it still feels fresh and lively. The palate is full and suave with fresh acidity and smooth tannins, and flavors of red currant and cherry jams, saucy strawberries. The fruit mixes with spices of pepper, tobacco, floral potpourri, paprika, savory broth, balsamic, and coffee grounds. Yet despite these deep, saucy flavors, it’s so fresh and vibrant. (89 points)

2017 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$100
Deep ruby color. The nose is excitingly spicy with red currants, raspberries, tangy strawberries, tossed expertly with tones of leather, smoky earth, tobacco, sage, some sauteed mushrooms. The palate has a dusty structure with fresh acidity and a deep but lively appeal, with flavors of mulled cherries, saucy plums, and raspberry jam. The fruit mixes with elements of tar, earth, black pepper, and a sautee of mushrooms and bell pepper, add in some leather and clove. This should age nicely! A blend of 39% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, and 31% Rondinella. From a high elevation single vineyard, this is a special, delicious Amarone. (92 points)

2018 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Cavolo - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$65
Juicy light purple color. I love the smoky and meaty tones on the nose, interwoven with savory broth and spicy herbal tones and earth, along with black cherries and red currant compote. The palate is deep and full, zesty acidity, grippy but fine-edged tannins, and the balance is on point. Tangy red and black cherries abound, accented by charcoal, anise, tar, earth, green herbs, black pepper, some leathery tones. A lot going on here, and this will age really well. Warm, inviting, delicious. 59% Corvina, 21% Corvinone 21%, 17% Rondinella, 3% other varieties, aged two years and small oak and an additional year in larger oak barrels. (90 points) 

2020 Brigaldara Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore
$34
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a warm, vibrant, spicy appeal, with black cherries and cranberry relish, plum sauce, with tones of tobacco, clove, cedar, fallen leaves, and dried flower petals. The palate has a rich, suave appeal with a full body and lively acidity. The saucy plums and tangy blackberry fruit is mixed with so many nuances of spice, tobacco, black pepper, menthol, dill. Really cool and nuanced with a tart, vibrant, lively but long-aging appeal. (91 points)

2013 Cantina di Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella San Floriano Riserva - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$200
Deep ruby color. A saucy mix of spiced cranberry sauce, red and black plums and currants, along with tones of tobacco, pine resin, menthol, sage, lots of rose and violet petals and sage. Smooth, deep, vibrant and balanced on the palate with dusty-structured tannins and flavors of cranberry and raspberry jams, red and black currants, along with a complex host of savory, earthy, spicy, herbal tones. The freshness and nuance offer a lot to parse through, and this will continue to age well for a long time. (93 points)

N.V. Cesarini Sforza Trentodoc Brut Rosé Tridentum - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Trento
$26

Pretty pink color. The nose exudes chalk dust and crushed limestone, along with lemon, quince, red apple peel, along with watermelon, daisies, dandelion, and honeysuckle. The palate is ripe and juicy with a pleasantly creamy depth and brisk acidity, infused with limestone and saline, lots of minerals. Balanced well, light and zippy but plenty of depth, with flavors of yellow apples, lemon, tangerine, backed up with light toast, biscuits, honey, and almond skin. Intriguing and delicious. Chardonnay with 15% Pinot Noir, grown in vineyards up to 2,100 feet, aged 24 months on the lees. (90 points)

2018 Endrizzi Trentodoc Riserva Brut Pian Castello - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Trentodoc
$28
Light salmon color. Bright and chalky on the palate with tangy red apples, strawberries, crunchy white cherries, mixed with flinty, chalky, salty vibes, along with honeysuckle, floral perfume, slight mint. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles, this sparkler has a brisk and salty appeal with balanced sugar and flavors of yellow and red apples, raspberries. The notes of minerals, oyster shells, daisies, basil, and oregano add complexity. A focused, crunchy, brisk sparkling wine that punches about its weight. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir aged 60 months on the lees. (91 points)

Troon continues to excel with their Southern Oregon wines

I’ve been a huge fan of Oregon’s Troon for about a decade now. And they’ve been such an exciting producer to watch, sourcing a wide array of grapes from unique terroirs in Oregon’s Applegate Valley, hard-crafting wines of diverse styles. They’re not afraid to experiment by any means, but it seems their experiments are so well thought out, and they tend to work.

For as long as I’ve followed this producer, it’s impressed me how they continue to craft terroir-driven, interesting, delicious wines at such good prices. This producer has long been practicing biodynamic practices, and has seems truly dedicated to sustainable practices and promoting responsible winegrowing.

I recently tasted four of their new releases, wines that remind me why I got excited about this producer in the first place. The grapes are grown in the Kubli Bench formation of Southern Oregon, which creates an incredible mix of granitic and riverbed soils with plenty of sunshine and large diurnal temperature swings. 

They have a great blog, lots of interesting videos, and other information on their website. From my perspective, from farming to label design, they are obsessed with making attractive wines and promoting their region. And I think that’s great. Troon really works to get their message, beliefs, and, most importantly, their wines out there.

This week, I have four of their new releases. It’s spooky season, a great time for orange wine. And their Amber is a cool introduction to this style.

Troon really has their Vermentino program dialed in, as they make a skin contact, a sparkling, and a wine aged on the lees. I think they’re one of the best doing it in the U.S., to be honest. In a blind tasting of wines from Sardinia, for example, a Troon wine would be an excellent ringer.

Troon’s rosé is an absurd value, and an easy half-case buy if you’re looking for a pink you could drink all year long, and age a few. Lastly, a peppery, incense and violet-infused Syrah really delivers.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Pale lemon color. The nose is bright and salty with tropical flowers and spritely tones; the fruit is lemon and kiwi and orange peel, mixed with honey, sea salt, almond skin, and white flowers. On the palate, this is taut and energetic with a floral, bright, oceanic appeal. Notes of kumquat, lime, orange peel – the fruit blends well with elements of minerals, chalk dust, sea salt, celery seed. I get nuances of white and yellow flowers, along with notes of honey and peanut skin. Complex, vibrant, this would be amazing with oysters. A lot going on here, and Troon really has such expressive Vermentino. An absurd value, and worth seeking out. (93 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Rich, deep yellow/amber color. The nose is so vibrant and expressive with ripe peach and yellow apple, mixed with orange peel, kiwi, and plenty of floral perfume, honeysuckle, and cool tones of candle wax and mint. The palate sports a delightfully waxy texture, crisp acidity, and a salty-briny appeal, with plenty of peach fruit, orange peel, watermelon rind, pineapple – love it. Nuances abound in terms of sea salt, white pepper, sliced cucumber, yellow flowers. Delicious, and I know orange wines are generally consumed young, but this has some interesting aging potential, I think. Vermentino, Viognier, and Roussanne, made in a skin-contact style with 30% whole cluster fermentation in neutral oak. (92 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25
Light peach color. So spicy, floral, and fresh on the nose, with a burst of white peach, kiwi, crunchy green apples, along with cucumber slices, white pepper, all sorts of basil and nettle nuances. The palate sports a gorgeous mouthfeel, deep texture, and racy acidity. Super fun and fresh with flavors of limes, white cherries, yellow pears, and the fruit is mixed wonderfully with notes of rose hips, basil, honeysuckle, all sorts of airy, spring meadow vibes. There’s a deep essence of limestone, river rocks, and minerals throughout. A year round rose that has a lot of depth and complexity. A blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Counoise, Carignan, and Negrette. (92 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Syrah Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Dark ruby color. Wow, the nose pops with pretty blueberries, tangy black cherries, currant compote, along with enticing amounts of black pepper, clove, violet petals, spicy red pepper, and some tilled soil. Delightful to sniff. Zippy acidity frames this wine well, while the tannins provide a dusty but wonderfully chewy feel, with flavors of plums and tangy blueberries and black cherries. There are a lot of spicy nuances in here to parse through: paprika, black pepper, spicy pepperoni, barbecue sauce, charcoal. I also get notes of violets and minerals. A lot going on here; it’s fun young but would also be interesting with a few years of age on it. (92 points)