Revisiting the exciting wines of Southern Arizona

Sunrise on a Superstitions Mountains ridgeline (Dec. 2023)

I’ve been visiting Arizona once or twice a year since 2010, and I’m barely scratching the surface. As an avid outdoors lover, there’s just so much to do. And I’ve really enjoyed getting to know the diverse and rather vast winemaking culture. Since I started paying attention, things have gotten even more dynamic and exciting.

I’m a huge fan of producers like Page Springs Cellars, which was the first vineyard I visited, located in the Verde Valley south of Sedona. But time and again, I’ve found some of the most delicious and interesting wines come from the high elevation desert vineyards of Southeastern Arizona. Here, in the Willcox and Cochise County regions, things just seem to click.

This is where Aridus calls home. I’ve been hip to this producer since 2016 or so. Since their beginnings in 2012, Scott and Joan Dahmer of Aridus have been developing estate vineyards and their winery outside the town of Pierce. And as of the 2023 vintage, all grapes will be sourced from estate sites. The winery now tends to 40 acres of vines in the Chiricahua Foothills, most of which grow at an elevation of about 5,200 feet. Where I’m from in the Mid-Atlantic, that’s higher than most of our mountains. The dry climate, diverse soils, and large variation between daytime and nighttime temperatures means Arizona regions have more in common with, say, Mendoza, than they do California.

Aridus, and a good amount of other producers, are currently based in the Willcox American Viticultural Area (AVA), which was established in 2016. The land is above 4,000 feet and wrapped by the Chiricahua and Dos Cabezas Mountains to the east, the Dragoon Mountains to the west, and the Pinaleño Mountains to the northeast. Recently, Aridus and neighboring winegrowers have proposed a new AVA called the Chiricahua Foothills, which would take its name from the nearby Chiricahua National Monument. I, for one, am curious to see where this process goes, as the potential for further exploring and establishing regional boundaries should be a help to the state’s wine business.

While a trip to the area is highly recommended, you don’t have to go that far to taste AZ wines. If you ever find yourself in Scottsdale with some time on your hands, the Aridus tasting room on Old Town is a nice spot to relax and get in the Arizona state of mind with some local vino.

While in Arizona in December – in addition to plenty of hiking, rock-climbing, and wildlife photography – I picked up some wines from two reliable producers who also make wine from Cochise County fruit – Page Springs and Dos Cabezas. I include those wines in this report as well.

Mountains outside of Sonoita, Arizona.

The Aridus wines were received as samples, while the others I purchased. They were all tasted sighted.

2019 Aridus Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Arizona
SRP: $59
Dark purple color. The nose has a pleasantly smoky and jammy mix of aromas, with black cherries, roasted figs, and plum cake, along with barbecue sauce, black pepper, roasted red pepper, and some oregano and anise tones. The palate is rich and suave with smooth tannins and moderating acidity. Flavors of cherry and currant compote, mixed with scorched earth, warm rocks, graphite, some bell pepper, and mineral dust. A spicy, balanced, delicious Cab that offers a great intro into what AZ is capable of with Cab. (90 points)

2020 Aridus Petite Sirah - USA, Arizona
SRP: $65
Dark purple. The nose shows a dense but warm and friendly mix of fig paste, boysenberry, wild blueberries, and the fruit is tossed with a lovely mix of anise, black pepper, coffee grounds, charcoal, and even some cinnamon and ginger nuances. The palate is rich a bold but the acidity is vibrant, balancing things nicely, while the dark fruit sings (black currants, plum sauce, roasted figs). The non-fruit tones offer a lot to love, with tar, coffee grounds, mocha, toffee, some mineral and graphite vibes. Long finish with smoky earth and herbs. A dark but delightful PS that holds itself well and should age nicely, too. Arizona has a knack for this variety for sure. (91 points)

2020 Aridus Cabernet Franc - USA, Arizona
SRP: $65
Bright purple color. I like the mix of deep but tangy fruit (black cherries, dark plums, currants) with savory vibes and tones (pepper, black licorice, roasted red pepper, some dried violet, clay). The palate is saucy but vibrant with chewy tannins and medium acidity, and plenty of tangy, juicy fruit in terms of plum, blackberry, and figs. The tones of pine resin, black pepper, sliced bell pepper, violets, clove, and all sorts of earth add complexity. Finishes with violets and spice rack dust. Pleasant, complex, balanced, I’d also like to see this in a few years. (90 points)

2020 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Cimarron Vineyard - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $28
Deep ruby. Jammy and ripe and fun on the nose with spicy red fruits and a mix of tar, mint, black pepper, and warm red clay. The palate sports dusty tannins and fresh acidity for a pleasantly balanced wine with flavors of jammy red cherries and juicy raspberries. The fruit is blended well with elements of clove, mint, white pepper, leather, some rhubarb, and hints of oak and spiced tea. Yummy, pleasant, balanced, crushable, fan-friendly red blend. (88 points)

2022 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Pink - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $25
Bright pink color. Spritely nose of white cherry, watermelon, raspberry, with tones of floral perfume, nettle, and creosote. The palate is racy and brisk with a pleasantly creamy texture and flavors of watermelons upon watermelons. Crunchy minerals, chalk dust, and plenty of dried white flowers and white tea make for a complex and delicious pink. Dos Cabezas, per usual, making the good stuff. (89 points)

2022 Page Springs Cellars Mule's Mistake - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $23

Pale ruby color, almost like a dark rosé. Love the aromatic flourishes of tangy red apples, white cherries, wild strawberries, along with rose hops and white pepper. The palate is light, bright, and super crunchy, with brisk acidity and the softest little tannins. Tangy white cherries and wild raspberry fruit blends well with spicy-floral vibes (rhubarb, rose hips, rooibos tea, some green herbs). Every year, this is a wild kitchen sink blend of sometimes a dozen varieties (red and white), and it is always fun, exciting, and a great value. (88 points)

Selections for Valentine’s Day and beyond

Congrats to anyone who did a dry January! February is in full swing, and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. We’ve also got the Super Bowl coming up, and Spring will be knocking on the door before we know it.

A heart of locks on an Appalachian Trail overpass

So, if you’re looking to stock up on some wines for the coming festivities, branch out and try something new, or purchase a bottle or two for your special someone, this week I have a delightful mix of wines that will fit the bill.

Amour and French wines go together, so a few are needed on this list. Champagne (of course), but I also included some intriguing pink wines and a wine I don’t see too often but thoroughly enjoy – Faugères Blanc.

From Marlborough, New Zealand comes a Sauvignon Blanc worthy of love and affection – Loveblock. It’s one of the better iterations of the style that I’ve come across in recent years, and the value is great.

Portugal is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I loved taking my partner and daughter there last year to show them the country. The food, landscape, and (of course) wine are endlessly fascinating and interesting, so I had to include some cool new Portuguese wines in this report. I have a handful of wines that represent just a drop in the bucket in terms of Portugal’s wine diversity.

Italy also needs a spot on this lovely list of wine, and the wines of Valpolicella is such a great cold weather wine to enjoy and share with those you love. From Pasqua, I have two warm, hearty reds that are seriously worth checking out. They’re great for the cellar, a meat dish you’ve been braising all day, or a gift to someone you love.

I also have a stunner of a dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes’ Ravines. Riesling is perhaps the world’s greatest grape (arguments welcomed, but I won’t hold my breath). And this FLX wine is so vibrant and versatile. I also have a value-driven and delicious Pinot Noir from Oregon that I think would please most any palate.

Whatever you’re sipping and whoever you’re sipping it with, all the best for Valentine’s Day and the rest of Winter.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Château des Estanilles Faugères Vallongue Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a delightfully rich mix of pears and yellow apples, honey, graham cracker, almond, shaved ginger, along with some crushed limestone and flinty vibes. The palate has racy acidity and a precise sense of salinity, along with a lovely creamy texture. Flavors of white peach, yellow apples, pear butter, along with notes of almond and ginger cake, and crushed chalk and limestone tones. Minerals and talc on the long, pithy finish. Really delightful stuff, diverse, balanced, delicious, will age as well. 45% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, 20% Vermentino, aged six months on the lees in stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Domaine de l'Abbaye Côtes de Provence Clos Beylesse - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence

SRP: $26
Pale copper color. The nose is a bright infusion of raspberries and white cherries, with lots of crushed stones, minerals, sea salt, with some nettle and white pepper tones. The palate is racy and pithy, contrasted and balanced by a honeyed depth. Peaches and raspberries, mixed with orange blossom, floral perfume, some chalk dust and minerals, and honeysuckle. Pleasant texture, bright, delicious, complex – a Provence pink to put some summer in your February. (90 points)

2022 Château d'Astros Côtes de Provence Cuvée Amour - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $18
Rich salmon color. A juicy mix of watermelon, white cherry, and strawberries, with flinty, chalky, crushed stone vibes, along with celery seed, perfume, and lily elements. The palate is crisp but taut with red apples and white cherry fruits, balanced and vibrant. The fruit is laced with notes of sea salt, limestone, chalk dust, along with all sorts of white tea, mint, white flowers, and some celery seed tones. Zesty, springy, floral, versatile, this is great for Valentine’s Day, spring, or really any time of year. (90 points)

N.V. Perrier-Jouët Champagne Grand Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $65
Light gold color. A classic and inviting aromatic blend of biscuits, gingerbread, almond cake, with lemon bars, lime zest, green pears and white peaches, with lots of floral tones. The palate has a crunchy, flinty, fresh appeal with a nice creamy depth, pleasantly balanced. Yellow apples, lemons and limes, and juicy peach fruit mixes well with elements of nougat, fresh biscuits, honey butter, and honeyed ginger tea. Complex, refined, classic. (90 points)

2015 Pasqua Valpolicella Superiore Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. An exciting aromatic display of deep red currants, saucy plums, and black cherry jam, along with a host of non-fruit complexities: loamy earth, roasted red pepper, chewing tobacco, eucalyptus, with notes of cedar. Ripe bright on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and fresh acidity, supporting saucy mulled fruits (currants, plums, black cherries). Balanced and refined with flourishes of dried violets, earth, soy sauce, sage, leather Fresh and bright personality throughout but offers a lot to parse through. (91 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

SRP: $85
Dark ruby color. Aromas invite contemplation with these nuanced savory, floral, and spice-laden tones, accenting the blackberry, cranberry relish, and mulled cherry fruit. I also get some coffee and dark chocolate. When sipping, this wine is both bold and elegant, with structured but sanded tannins and crisp acidity. Beautiful red cherry and currant fruit with cranberry relish, accented by leather, dusty earth, warm clay, chewing tobacco, cigar box, sandalwood, and coffee. A concentrated but expressive Amarone, and one that will have love to show for many years. Bury a bottle or enjoy now! (93 points)

2022 Loveblock Vintners Ltd Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $31
Medium yellow color. So bright and inviting on the nose with ruby red grapefruit, green melon, limes, and the fruit is mixed with a complex blend of honey, tropical flowers, with nuanced green herbs and wild leeks. The palate sports gorgeous, pleasantly creamy texture, matched by brisk acidity, with pristine balance. Flavors of white peach, lemons and limes, cantaloupe, and honeydew. The fruit is tossed with complex notes of stones and chalk dust, minerals, white pepper, wild green herbs. It has this stony, mountain stream clarity, lots of precision, and a long finish. A NZ Sauv Blanc to win over any skeptics. (92 points)

2022 Quinta da Raza Trajadura Raza Pet-Nat - Portugal
SRP: $20
Bold yellow color with fine fizz. Lively and floral on the nose, with scents of white peaches and limes, along with dandelion, chalk, crushed sweet tarts – really floral and vibrant. The palate is pithy and tart, crunchy and dry, a bit bracing but delicious. Fruit-wise, this shows orange peel, tart pear, green apple, and to that the wine adds saline, quinine, minerals, dried white flowers, and some spicy nettle or mint. Focused, lively, great stuff to stock up on for Spring. Made from the Trajadura grape. (89 points)

2020 Companhia Agricola do Sanguinhal Óbidos Grande Reserva Branco Quinta das Cerejeiras - Portugal, Lisboa, Óbidos
SRP: $27
Bright yellow color. The nose shows yellow and green pears, lemon curd, and green apples, matched with crushed limestone, slate, along with honey and yellow flowers. The palate shows a rich textural weight but zesty acidity, combining for a clear and focused white. Flavors of lemon, quince, and green apples blend with tones of cut flower stems, basil, some crushed stone, sea salt. Delicious and harmonious. I travelled to Obidos last year and, my goodness, it is an incredible place and home to some delightful wines. Chardonnay, Arinto, and Vital grapes aged eight months in French oak and four months in steel. (90 points)

2021 Aveleda Alvarinho Solos de Granito - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Regional Minho
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromatically cranking with floral and citrus goodness – I get lemon, quince, limes, with mountain stream, stony minerals, saline, grapefruit rind, some honeysuckle. Racy acidity skates over the palate but there’s a nice textural complexity and depth, too. Flavors of ruby red grapefruit and oranges mix well with all sorts of white and yellow flowers, mountain stream, sea salt, and a level of mineral infusion that is so invigorating. Bring on all sorts of seafood and shellfish, or just sip as an apéritif. Well done! Fermented and aged in stainless steel for nine months with lees stirring. (91 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Prazo de Roriz - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. The nose shows tangy red and black currants and cherries and a whole lot of savory/spicy tones like: warm rocks, potting soil, sage and anise, oregano, black pepper. Fresh and ripe on the palate with chewy but structured tannins and moderating acidity. The plum, red and black cherry, and roasted fig fruit is deep and tangy. Notes of chewing tobacco, scorched earth, graphite, and dark chocolate shavings add complexity. For me, this is a perennial winner both for its quality and value. A classic Portuguese blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Touriga Franca. (90 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. The nose exudes a warm, wintry, but inviting host of currant jam, plum cake, fig paste, along with savory broth and pepper, dried violets, a cool leathery kick, and some graphite and minerals. The palate is grippy but suave with zippy acidity and a concentrated but fresh appeal. Flavors of plums, currant and fig paste, and tart blueberry. Add in some smoky earth, tar, leather, black pepper, anise, along with black tea and nuanced oak. This is juicy, tangy, and complex, and should also age well. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with small amounts of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Sousão, and Tinta Cão. (91 points)

2020 Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling - USA, New York, Finger Lakes

SRP: $21 

Lovely gold color. Beautiful depth of aromas packed in here – papaya, lime, white peach, yellow flowers, honey, ocean spray, smashed rocks. The palate has precise balance and a dry, zesty appeal with a pure mouthfeel. Flavors of yellow pears, white peach, and papaya taste ripe and alive. Then the waves of non-fruit complexities rush in: slate, minerals, ocean jetty, flinty tones, with perfume, and honeysuckle. Tingling minerals last long onto the finish. Great stuff, classic Finger Lakes Riesling goodness, and an exceptional value. (91 points)

2021 Rare North Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. The aromas are bright and red with cranberry, raspberry, tangy strawberry, along with notes of dusty earth, rhubarb, and some richer notes of light roast coffee grounds and roasted chestnut. On the palate, medium acidity with smooth, lightly dusty tannins, and a cool mix of fruit – from black cherry and plum to raspberry and strawberry rhubarb pie. The non-fruit elements are a lot of fun – there’s some spicy herbal tea, with roasted chestnut and cinnamon elements, and some rose petals and rhubarb. Lovely, fresh, will-please-all-palates kind of Willamette Pinot at a steal of a price. (89 points)

Diving into Alto Adige's distinctive wines

Credit: IDM Florian Andergassen

Note: This is my first contribution to my friend Aaron Menenberg’s Good Vitis site.

After all my years, there are still many wine regions of Italy I wanted to explore further. Recently, I’ve been digging into the Alto Adige region from afar, and I’m happy to report the findings have been delightful.

Though one of Italy’s smaller wine-producing regions, Alto Adige is complex and full of unique sites and winemaking cultures. Here, independent growers, smaller family-run wineries, and cooperatives work with some 20 different grape varieties in vineyards that run the gamut from warm Mediterranean-influenced valleys, to steep, alpine-chilled slopes.

Like the Italian mountaineers of old who chased first ascents in the Dolomites and beyond, these wines are intense, bold, and scrappy. Vineyards are planted at elevations from 600 to 4,000 feet, and often on steep inclined slopes. A real advantage for some winegrowers is the variability in elevation available to some growers, explained Jakob Gasser of St. Michael-Eppan Winery at a recent trade webinar. Located in Appiano, in the foothills of the Dolomites, producers like him can source the right grape from the right elevation and soil to achieve their goals. The winds generated by the mountains, and the resulting diurnal temperature swings, combined with lots of Mediterranean sunshine and warmth – it all comes together in this region to create unique and diverse terroir signatures.

Of course, winemaking goes back generations. But in recent years, the region has undergone something of a transition, from a lesser-known but respected region, to one whose wines are getting more recognition and attention from a larger audience.

When I first started studying Italian wine, I dug into the appellations, maps, and stats, but I didn’t spend much time with the wines from Alto Adige. They weren’t as easy to find, and perhaps I filed this away in my wine brain as “an Italian white wine region that looks interesting but I’ll take a deeper look sometime.” Even today, it’s not often a wine from Alto Adige pops up on a table with my wine friends. But I’m hoping that changes, as I think there’s a ton of opportunity out in these hills.

Chris Struck (New York-based Alto Adige ambassador and beverage direction at ilili Restaurants) said slow and steady work has led to a broader appreciation of what makes this region special. “Whether you’re looking at bellwethers like export data or media buzz, the region is well-poised as having ‘great wines from a great place with a storied history that you may have ever heard of but are hearing about now and should try,”’ Chris told me in an email. “And no wonder, as it has gateway international varieties that people have heard of (but which have a distinct style, as expressed in Alto Adige’s terroir), as well as native varieties that offer something brand new to explore.”

Read the full article and the rest of the Good Vitis Winter Issue here.