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Saturday, June 30, 2018

Lighter Side of Alentejo - White Wines Offer Quality, Value

Susana Esteban's white wines (field blends from old
vines, indigenous varieties) were some of the  most
exciting wines (red or white) I tasted in Alentejo.
Ask a group of wine geeks to free associate based on the phrase “Alentejo wines” and I’m guessing you’ll get comments about big, bold, jammy red wines. And they wouldn’t be wrong. But, after spending five days tasting my way through this region of Southern Portugal, I was impressed with how many exciting white wines I found.

Aside from the thrilling and ancient amphora wines of Alentejo (which I wrote about in detail in this post), the high quality of the white wine (branco in Portuguese) was one of my biggest takeaways from the trip. White wine grapes are seriously outnumbered, with about 27,000 acres planted to red grapes and less than 9,000 planted to whites, according to data from the Vine and Wine Commission of Alentejo. But that’s still a lot of white wine, spread out across a large region, and the quality can be quite high.

Antão Vaz came up again and again in the wines that I found exciting, usually as the dominant grape in a blend. This indigenous local variety is heralded especially in the subregions of Evora and Vidigueira. It survives well in heat and is quite drought-resistant, which comes in handy in a region that has suffered through several years of drought. (Although this year has been quite wet, and I certainly got rained on quite a bit during my visit in early June.) The grape is quite aromatic and provides lots of oomph to white blends, and can stand up to a good amount of new oak. However, the grape can lack focused acidity, especially if picked later.

Hence: Arinto. This grape which can produce crisp, vibrant wines with deep minerality and tropical fruits. This wine popped up again and again in the white blends I fell for. Gouveio fits into blends quite a bit as well, which used to be called Verdelho, and that was confusing (as grape names are always) because it’s genetically separate from the Verdelho of Madeira fame.

Roupeiro and Fernão Pires round out the grapes you’re most likely to encounter in Alentejo white blends. Portugal has tons of indigenous grape varieties, and I definitely encountered some hard-to-pronounce grapes I’d never heard of before. But I also found some white Rhone grapes that seem to do quite well in this hot region, and I even found an exciting Sauv Blanc from a cooler vineyard near the ocean.

Stylistically, the whites were all over the map. From lip-smacking, lighter-bodied versions to drink with Portuguese seafood, to rich, unctuous, barrel-fermented, lees-stirred creamsicles — there’s a bit of everything out there.

I gathered up a few interesting white wines I found on the trip to share. Most of these wines were tasted at the wineries or with the winemakers themselves, and all were tasted sighted. Most of these wines are available in the United States, and the prices based on either estimates from importers or wine-searcher results.

2017 Herdade Do Rocim Olho de Mocho Reserva Branco

$13
Nose boasts toasted nuts, lemon, mineral dust, notes of warm sand, really interesting. Crisp and brisk but the texture is rich, with lemon curd, orange peel, backed up by minerals, chalk dust, almond skin and roasted peanuts. Delicious stuff. All Antão Vaz. (90 points)

2017 Herdade do Mouchão Dom Rafael Branco

$20
This was one of the most surprising wines of the trip for me, as I was expecting a basic entry-level white and found an exciting, complex, thrilling wine. So floral and bright on the nose with lemons, apricots, crust sea salt, cucumber slices, baby's breath. Medium-bodied palate, rich texture but so crisp and lively, with a deep, underlying mineral presence. Lemon, lime, apricot, topped in lemon verbena, honeysuckle, baby's breath. Chalky finish. Wow. Antão Vaz, Arinto, Perrum and Fernão Pires. (91 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Aventura Branco
$19
Aromas are super peachy and bright but steely, too. Crisp, bright, brisk, mineral-driven on the palate with chalky notes, baby’s breath and green olive notes mixed with the juicy green apple and lemon fruit. Mineral dust note stand out, this shows lovely texture but such freshness. A co-fermented field blend from 30-year-old vineyards in Portalegre, which is at higher elevation, 700 meters. (89 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Branco
$37

Gorgeous aromatics of lemon curd, apricot, peaches, with yellow flowers and raw almonds. The textural depth is amazing, brisk acidity, lovely combo with peaches and lemon curd. Complex elements of sea salt, mineral, dusty chalk. Layered, vibrant, complex, deep, yet so refreshing. No lees-stirring, no maloactic fermentation, this is aged in old oak. Fascinating, excellent white field blend from 80-year-old vines. (93 points)

2017 FitaPreta Branco
$25
Steely, bright, floral aromas with limes, lemon and apricot. So bright on the palate, broadly texture but zesty and focused. Lemon, lime, apricot, the fruit mixes with mineral dust, white tea, honeysuckle. Bright and complex. Arinto, Roupeiro and Antão Vaz fermented in stainless steel. Complex, vibrant, eye-opening, delicious. (91 points)

2016 Adega Cooperativa de Borba Montes Claros Reserva Branco

$15
More tropical aromas here, with rich pineapple and lots of yellow flowers. Brisk but nice textural depth, with honeyed floral tones that mix well with apricot and lemon curd. Salty note on the finish, some richness from 30% of the wine seeing oak, but it’s nuanced and fresh and solid for the price. (88 points)

2016 Cortes de Cima Sauvignon Blanc

$24
I get a nose of lemons, grapefruit, white pepper and lemongrass. Zesty and floral on the palate, with peaches, lemons, chalk, lemon verbena. Very bright and vibrant. From the family’s coastal vineyards, this boasts a bright and salty approach that I find very attractive. (88 points)

2016 Cortes de Cima Branco

$22
Nougaty nose with pineapple and white peach. Plush texture on the palate but fresh, too, with apricot, white peach, honey, nougat, notes of talc and minerals. Alvarinho, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc fermented and aged in a mix of stainless steel and oak barrels. (89 points)

2016 Herdade do Esporão Reserva Branco

$17
Big and buttery on the nose with plump pears and honey. Full-bodied but fresh with chunky pineapple and pears but fresh and floral, too. 30% barrel-fermented with lees stirring, a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro. (89 points)

2015 Terras d'Alter Reserva Branco

$15
Honeysuckle, tart green and rich yellow apples, and buttercream on the nose. Crisp and lively, creamy texture but fresh, with dusty mineral and floral tones accenting the yellow apple and pineapple. Aged in old American oak with six months of battonage. (88 points)

2015 Doña Maria Amantis Reserva

$24
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, pineapple, rich yellow pear, hints of hay and nougat. Richer texture (14%), this is made with second-year oak and battonage, and that’s evident in nougat, creamy honey and butter notes, but there’s also some freshness and floral complexity. Bruised apple fruit is highly yummy. Fermented in French oak with six months of lees stirring, 14% alcohol. Made from Viognier. (88 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Monday, June 25, 2018

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

We’re back to the Golden State this week with a mix of newly-released wines from various producers.

Old school California powerhouse Wente lays out four Chardonnays that show an interesting diversity of styles. For several years, I’ve loved the bright and brisk Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs coming from Sonoma’s Alma Fria, and their 2015s are singing beautifully right now, and will continue to do so for years. Ehlers Estate’s Sauv Blanc and Chateau Montelena’s Zin deliver yet again, while a few other wines round out the report.

These wines were received as samples and tastes sighted.

Whites


2015 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc Oakville - California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color with aromas of nettle, lemon verbena, sliced jalapeno, on top of white peaches, apricot, honey and white tea. Juicy and full with creamy texture but lively acidity. Apricots, green melon, lemon, with honeyed white tea, cut green herbs, spicy nettle. Notes of cinnamon and almond woven in well, this is a balanced and vibrant wine with a dusty mineral finish. Mostly barrel-fermented with some lees stirring for nine months, 14% Semillon blended in as well. (90 points)


2016 Jack Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $35
Medium yellow color. Richer aromatics of yellow apple, apricot am, white tea, toasted nuts, honey and cinnamon. Plump and rich texture but medium acidity, bold and flavorful but fresh and pretty as well. Yellow apples, bruised pear, lemon curd, with notes of honeyed tea and white pepper. Bold and beautiful style. (90 points)


2017 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $32
Steely lemon color. Nose shows salted lemon, apricot, green apple, with notes of lemon verbena, chalk dust and honeysuckle. Super crisp and nervy, with brisk and salty notes but plenty of texture and depth. Apricot, tart lemon, green apple with complex elements of chalk dust, lemon verbena, basil, honey and white flowers. Lovely complexity, so balanced and expressive, another great example from Ehlers. (90 points)


2016 La Crema Chardonnay Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Aromas of yellow pear, peaches and apples, mixed with notes of yellow flowers, honeycomb, white tea, whipped butter. Creamy and bold texture on the palate with medium acidity, and juicy fruits (bruised pear, baked apple) cinnamon notes, toasted almond, with white and yellow flowers and whipped butter. Rich and stylistically forward but well made. Aged eight months in 1/3 new French oak. (87 points)


2017 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Eric's - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Aromas of sea breeze, lemon crème, some green apple, salted almond. Crisp and steely on the palate (no maloactic fermentation, all stainless steel), this is a fresh and appealing style with plump apple and lemon cake flavors. I get notes of sea breeze and almond. Fresh and bright but fun and shows some delicious flavors. (88 points)


2016 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Morning Fog - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP: $18
Light gold color. Nose shows pineapple, lime, rich yellow apples, with honey, almond and biscuits. Bold texture, medium-bodied, with medium acidity that keeps it quite fresh. Yellow plums and bruised apple fruit mix with toasted almond, cinnamon, graham cracker and fresh laundry. Rich but goes down easy and stays lively. Half fermented in American oak, half in stainless steel. Solid stuff for the money. (87 points)


2016 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Single Vineyard Riva Ranch - California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $22
Medium gold color. Bold nose of apricot jam, candied orange peel, almond, honey, peanut brittle and some vanilla. Plush texture with medium acidity, this is a warm and jammy style with apricot and orange marmalades, bruised pear, apricot jam, along with notes of vanilla and honey and almond. Tasty and crowd-friendly. All maloactic fermentation, most of the wine sees 60% new French oak. (87 points)


2016 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay 135th Anniversary Limited Release - California, Central Coast
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Pleasant and inviting aromas of salted almond, vanilla, hay, cinnamon, on top of white peach, apricots and green apples. Rich textural depth meets vibrant acidity, this is a bold but nuanced chardonnay with a nice mix of bruised yellow and tart green apples. Notes of nougat, cinnamon and vanilla woven in nicely. Most of the wine undergoes maloactic fermentation and is 16 months in a combination of new and used American Oak and French Oak, while 20% fermented in stainless steel without maloactic. (90 points)


2016 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Nth Degree - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP $70
Deep yellow color. Bold aromatic punch of honey, toasted almond, toasted bread, fresh biscuits, on top of bruised apple and lemon curd. Rich texture, this is a bold presence on the palate with medium acidity to help it balance out. Bruised yellow apple and apricot meet loads of toasted nuts, spicy cedar, vanilla. Full-throttle style, but it’s quite well done. All maloactic fermentation, this spends 14 months in new and used French oak. (89 points)


2015 Alma Fría Chardonnay Plural - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Breezy aromas of ocean spray and white flowers, with lemon curd, yellow apples, honeycomb, salted almond and cinnamon notes. Medium-bodied, this is crisp and bright with nervy acidity on a medium-bodied frame (13.4% alcohol). Flavors of tangerine and lemon curd, woven together with honey, white flowers, nougat, saline, dusty/chalky minerals. Another excellent vintage of this elegant Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. (92 points)


2015 Alma Fría Chardonnay Campbell Ranch Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $50
Pretty yellow color. Gorgeous aromatics, contrasting between bright (sea breeze, chalk, river rocks, white flowers) and richer notes (orange marmalade, lemon curd, honey, nougat). Crisp and lip-smacking on the palate, so focused and vibrant, but shows lovely depth. Lemon curd, key lime pie, apricot, seasoned with crusty sea salt, limestone, minerals and crushed shells. Hints of white tea, honeycomb and peanut brittle add complexity. So curious to taste this in 3-5 years from now. Wow. (94 points)

Reds


2016 Cline Cellars Zinfandel Ancient Vines - California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Rich and smoky on the nose, with a cool mix of black cherry and raspberry jam with smoky, barbecue notes, coconut coffee and black pepper sauce. Juicy and plush but some medium-light tannins, lots of ripe red cherries, roasted black cherries. Notes of sweet barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, some sweet cedar. Fun, delicious Zin for the price. Aged 7 months in 35% new American oak. (87 points)


2016 Sidebar Cellars Zinfandel Alegría Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $28
Light ruby color. Bright and tart red and black currants, lots of spicy rosebush and violets, earthy, clove notes – a lot to like when sniffing. Very pretty structure on the palate with velvety tannins, fresh acidity, and plenty of juicy fruit (cherries, plums, raspberries, currants). Complex elements of clove, cedar, roses, coffee grounds. Round but also tangy, fruity but earthy and savory spice elements. Impressive depth and freshness as well. (90 points)


2015 Chateau Montelena Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley, Calistoga
SRP: $39
Deep ruby, light purple color. Aromas of tart red and black currants, a beautiful mix of black tea and dark floral and clove tones with spicy pepper and sweet pipe tobacco. Tangy acidity frames the palate nicely, but velvety tannins provide structure. Complex tangy black and red currants and cherries, along with clove, violets, cinnamon, eucalyptus, and some deep earthy, rocky elements. Very impressive, and easy to drink now, but can also hold for at least a few years. All Zin aged 16 months in French, Irish and American oak, 15% new. (91 points)


2014 Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $90
Deep purple color. Dark and saucy aromatics with blackberries and dark plums, loamy earth, charcoal, graphite, dark chocolate shavings. Fresh acidity helps frame this wine nicely, while the tannins give grip, but the balance is evident. Tangy blackberries and blueberries are topped in anise, charcoal smoke and graphite. The rich but tart fruit and the mineral streak on the end make a great combo. Will improve with a few years at least. 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 28% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, aged for 20 months in 46% new French oak barrels. (91 points)


2015 Jack Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
SRP: $125
Deep purple color. Rich, voluptuous aromas of crushed blueberry, black currants, eucalyptus and vanilla. Grippy but velvety on the palate, some acidity helps moderate. Plump black cherry, tart blueberry, currant jam, gobs of fruit but the wine is also loaded with eucalyptus, mint, gravelly earth. Espresso, cedar and vanilla woven in nicely. Big but nuanced and age-worthy. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc. Aged 22 months in new French oak. (91 points)


2016 La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $23
Bright ruby color. Aromas of sweet raspberries, cherry cola, sweet strawberry, rhubarb pie and roses. Medium-bodied, medium acidity, juicy and ripe with an easygoing appeal. Strawberry and raspberry jam with cola, roses and rhubarb notes. Fun, fruity, playful style, well done for the price. Aged nine months in 25% new French oak. (86 points)


2016 La Crema Pinot Noir Monterey - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $23
Light ruby color. On the nose, strawberries, sour cherries, red apple peel, cola and rhubarb. Crisp acidity, light tannins, 13.9% alcohol but a medium to light-bodied feel, with flavors of red cherries, raspberries and red apples. Notes of spiced tea, rhubarb, sweet cola. A fresh and bright style with plenty of juicy red fruit. Nine months in 21% new French oak. (86 points)


2015 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Plural Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $40
Bright medium ruby color. Very pretty aromatics of tart red cherries, wild raspberries, matched with spicy clove, mint, rhubarb, rose petals. Such a fresh and vibrant wine but not lacking at all in structure and flavor. Solid but velvety, crisp acidity, waves of tart cherry and strawberry fruit. Roses, rhubarb and white pepper linger with richer notes of clove and cola. Beautiful stuff to drink now or cellar for a few years. (92 points)


2015 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Holtermann Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $62
Deep ruby color. Gorgeous aromas of chilled raspberries, fresh strawberries, re apple peel, along with a complex host of spicy rhubarb, white pepper, rose petals. Medium-bodied on the palate this is a brisk style but plenty of fleshy fruit and supported by dusty tannins. Crisp, chilled red fruits (raspberries, strawberries, red apple), with complex elements of spicy herbs, mushroom and soy. So harmonious right now but I’d love to hold for three or four years. (93 points)



This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Get to Know Albariño from Rias Baixas

With vibrant acidity, fresh fruit, and lots of oceanic and floral tones, Albariño is such a great wine for summer. And Spain’s Rias Baixas region is where to go to find the good stuff.

Located across the Miño River from Portugal, this coastal area of Galicia produces almost exclusively white wines. Albariño is king, with other local white varieties mixed in like Caino and Loureiro. I love the distinct oceanic elements (like sea breeze, sea salt and crushed shells) that I find in a lot of wines from this area. Tasting a good one makes me think of sitting by the ocean (my happy place) — and the price points make me happy as well.

Here in the States, I’ve seen a steadily increasing range of Rias Baixas wines. For years, the same few brands produced reliable, but not necessarily exciting wines. But I’m convinced that Rias Baixas Albariño can be far more than fun, relatively inexpensive summer whites. They can be “serious wines.”

Last week, I poured a bunch of wines, including three Rias Baixas Albariños, at a charity fundraising event. The crowd, with varying levels of wine knowledge, loved these crisp, zesty whites, and several people told me this would be there go-to grape when they want to branch out from drinking Sauvignon Blanc.

I recently received a bunch of Rias Baixas and found solid quality across the board, with a few standouts that far over-deliver for the price. These wines were received as samples and tasted single-blind.


2017 Terras Gauda Rías Baixas O Rosal - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, O Rosal 
SRP: $24
Rich yellow color. Gorgeous aromatics of sea breeze, salted almond, lemon curd, some creamy-deeper aromas of whipped honey and tropical flowers as well. Texture is lovely, there’s so much depth on the palate while the acid rips across the palate and keeps it fresh. Lime, orange pulp, tart green apple, lemon crème, the fruit is tossed with saline, mineral, some interesting raw olive and almond notes. Love the complexity here, and the balance, my favorite of the lot. This Albariño includes 20% Caino and 10% Loureiro. (92 points)


2017 Adegas Valmiñor Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, O Rosal
SRP: $19
Light yellow color. Nose shows orange blossoms, dandelion, along with lemon zest, pineapple, green apples. Bright and so focused with apricots and green apple fruit. Honeysuckle and slate notes, with a mineral-chalky finish. Depth is impressive. (88 points)


2017 Bodegas Altos de Torona Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, O Rosal
SRP: $20
Light yellow color with a slight fizz. Bright notes of sea spray, oyster shell, lemon-lime, pineapple. Crisp and loaded with oceanic and mineral notes, an intriguing texture with some punch to it. Orange peel, lemon zest, with oyster shell and breezy floral tones. This is complex, vibrant, lip-smacking stuff. (90 points)


2016 Adegas Galegas S.L. Albariño Don Pedro de Soutomaior - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, O Rosal
SRP: $19
Vibrant yellow. Nose of oranges and limes, green apple, cut floral stems, chalky, saline notes. Lovely precision, gorgeous acidity, rich textural depth, with apricots, melon rind, green apples. A salty, cut flower stem complexity, with salted almond and a unique candle wax note. Complex, interesting, dynamic. (90 points)


2017 Terra de Asorei Rías Baixas Nai e Señora - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, Val do Salnés
SRP: $16
Pale yellow color. Aromas of peaches and green apple, pineapple, sea breeze and yellow flowers. Bright and so zippy on the palate but there’s a real richness here as well. Tart lemon and pineapple fruit with a seawater and mountain stream combo that is really nice. (89 points)


2017 Adega Paco & Lola Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, Val do Salnés
SRP: $22
Pale yellow color. Nose of yellow flowers, dandelion, honeysuckle, apricot, white peaches, lime. Super zippy on the palate this is one of the saltiest ones (which I love), with sea salt and ocean spray on top of lemon and pineapple. Some underlying floral and mineral complexity. Balanced nicely, quite complex. (90 points)


2017 Pazo de Señoráns Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, Val do Salnés 
SRP: $25
Bright light yellow color. Aromas of guava, lemon-lime, with honeysuckle, white pepper, saline and chalk dust. Textural depth, zesty acidity, I love the complex saline, oyster shell, raw almond, sea breeze notes. Grapefruit, lime, nectarine fruit along with honey notes. The depth, balance and complexity here is really impressive – this one stood out strongly. (91 points)


2016 Adega Condes de Albarei Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, Val do Salnés
SRP: $15
Rich yellow color. Green apples and lemons on the nose with floral perfume and lots of sea salt. So crisp and lively on the palate on a medium-bodied frame. Tart green apples, lemons, some pineapple, along with cut flowers and sea spray. Pure and crisp and tart, but not simple, this sports significant depth and complexity. (89 points)


2017 Bodegas As Laxas Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, Condado do Tea
SRP: $18
Pale yellow color. Aromas of peaches, green apples and limes, along with sea spray and yellow flowers. Medium-bodied, clean and zesty, with green apples, apricots and lime. Notes of honeysuckle, lilies, sea salt, with a dry, mineral-infused finish. (87 points)


2017 Señorío de Rubiós Robalino - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, Condado do Tea
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. Aromas of whipped honey, floral tea, more tropical and rich in its approach with pineapple and floral tea. Crisp acid frames the palate, but there’s some nice textural depth here. Pineapple, limes, orange zest, with notes of clean laundry, floral perfume, salty-airy notes, lingering mineral presence. Lovely complexity here. (90 points)



This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Monday, June 18, 2018

Wine Book Review: "Wine, the Romans and Me" by Nina Caplan



It’s hard to imagine what the “Old World” wine maps would look like today had the Roman Empire never existed. So many lives, cultures, religions, and independent groups of people were crushed under the heel of Rome — but vineyards and wine spread out to almost all corners of Rome’s reach.  

To cover the entire history of vineyard expansion under Roman rule would be a daunting task, and likely result in a heavy read. Luckily, Nina Caplan’s travel and wine memoir , “The Wandering Vine: Wine, the Romans and Me,” is a joy to read.  

In the introduction, Caplan says her goal is to trace the path of the Romans, “back from England to France, Spain and Italy… an attempt to understand how they conquered the world through wine, and to look at some of the more unlikely consequences of that conquest.” She manages to weave together historical and modern wine stories expertly. Caplan travels from her home of England to Champagne, to Burgundy, to the Rhone, to Provence. She covers lots of Spanish and Italian regions (Barcelona, Tarragona, Seville, Palermo, Naples), and finishes up in Rome.  

The story of wine, like the story of people, Caplan writes, is a story of displacement, of constant movement and adaptation. “How much duller our dinner tables would be if people and vines had ever learned to stay still!” she proclaims. “If we are lucky enough to happen on the right soil and left to inhabit it peacefully, we can root ourselves and flourish, to the benefit of all.”  

Everywhere Caplan goes, she looks for historical traces of the Jewish people who once inhabited the specific area she is exploring. She incorporates Jewish history, and their connection to the particular area’s wine and vines, searching for remnants and finding common themes of oppression, expulsion, and forced conversion by Christians. I found these aspects of the book the most fascinating, as I feel many of these important stories are overlooked in the history of the Roman Empire.  

Her writing style is playful yet precise, poetic with dashes of an academic historian. And her book is littered with little nuggets of wisdom and joyful proclamations: “We must live our lives, and honour with wine and with every sense at our disposal the roots and stems from which we sprang, taking our encounters, with the living and the dead, as we find them. Nothing – not grapes nor shades nor stories – is entirely irrecoverable…”  

I think this book could appeal to serious wine geeks by adding a bit of historical context to regions we’re all quite familiar with. For casual wine fans and lovers of travel, this is an accessible and pleasant read that would pair perfectly with a sunny beach and, preferably, a chilled glass of wine.  

Available now
$25, hardback
Bloomsbury Publishing


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, June 16, 2018

Alentejo's Amphora Wines: an Ancient Tradition in Renewal

Wines aging in talha, Alentejo's amphora, at Herdade de Rocim.
With rolled eyes, several Alentejo winemakers joked with me about the reputation they think many Americans have about their wines: They’re red, they’re high in alcohol, and they’re doused with too much oak. While I did get my palate pleasantly pounded by a brutal 16.5% red aged in all new oak, for the most part, this reputation (if it was once somewhat accurate), is undeserved.

Case in point: the talha wines from this region of southern Portugal. Talha is the Portuguese term for clay fermentation pots, also known by their Greco-Roman name amphora. And in Altentejo the talha tradition runs deep — 2,000 years, to the days of the Roman Empire. Except for Georgia (where using open-topped clay pots is a much older custom), Alentejo is the only region in the world with such a long history of producing wines this way.

On a recent trip, sponsored by Wines of Alentejo, I dug deep into the Alentejo wine culture and found an exciting mix of ancient practices and modern innovation. A new generation of winemakers is keeping this history alive, while adding their own signature. Over the course of a week, I tasted tons of wines, and, far and away, I was most thrilled with the talha wines, or vinhas da talha.

In the glass, generally speaking, I get bright and floral aromas, which can be shocking complex, inviting, and pleasantly different. The flavor profile of the grapes (usually blends) shines through wonderfully, unhindered by any toast or oak influences. The alcohol levels are frequently around 12-13%. But the texture is what really gets me excited: smooth, fresh, sometimes slightly dusty, always unique and hard to describe (although I’ve tried in my tasting notes)


Authenticity and identity

When asked why continuing to produce wines this way is so important in the region, Joao Barroso, Wines of Alentejo’s sustainability manager, said, “It’s about the authenticity of the culture.” The more time I spent there, the more I felt, and fell in love with, this authentic wine culture.

When I asked Herdade d0 Rocim’s winemaker Vania Guibarra the same question, she said, “It’s about our identity.” She produces a white and red wine fermented in amphorae, after being crushed by foot in marble vats (called lagares), which are common in a region with active marble quarries. Generally speaking, her amphorae hold between 900 and 1,000 liters of wine, although each individual clay pot is unique in size and shape. She also ages portions of the wine for longer in smaller pots (about 140 liters), a method I found utilized by several other wineries in Alentejo.

When I tasted Vania’s white, a field blend of co-fermented indigenous Portuguese varieties, I was floored and began ranting to her about the wine’s uniqueness, freshness, and downright deliciousness. It was the first stop on my trip, and I didn’t have much luggage space, but I had to buy a bottle to bring home. Her red also impressed me, and words like “breezy,” “airy,” and “vibrant!” litter my notebook — not terms I’m used to using with red wines.
Amphorae sleeping in Adega Jose de Sousa's cellar.

Paulo Amaral of Adega Jose de Sousa
Paulo Amaral, winemaker at Adega José de Sousa and total talha guru, has one of the most extensive programs in Alentejo. His cellar has a collection of 114 talhas, which were made in the 1870s, along with several broken ones which he hasn’t moved. On a visit to his winery, Paulo set up a ladder, climbed up, and opened the top of one of his clay pots. On top of the wine floated a half-inch layer of olive oil, which he uses to protect the wine underneath from too much oxygen. He invited me to stick my hand in and taste (which, of course, I did without hesitation). The oil was doing its job, as it was highly oxidized, and licking this oil and wine mixture off my fingers was an interesting aesthetic experience for sure.

Making the wines

Talha wines have many of the qualities of so-called natural wines, loved by so-called hipsters — minimalist intervention winemaking, wild yeast fermentation, no oak, lower alcohol, and they’re commonly made from indigenous grape varieties.

Regular people all over Alentejo ferment their own house wine in amphorae, and taverns sell it straight from the talha. Yes, this method results in some flawed wines — I tasted two tavern wines that were seriously troubled. I’m sure many people make wonderful house wine in amphorae, but I can only speak of the professional vintners whose wines I tasted, winemakers who take this process, and its regional history, seriously, while producing pristine, fascinating and unique wines.

The Talha DOC (created in 2012) is a quirky appellation, regulating different aspects of this clay pot fermentation process. For example, each vintage cannot be removed from the pots before November 11 (St. Martin’s Day, a traditional wine-fueled celebration), although many winemakers hold their wines for much longer.

David Baverstock shows how to punch down
the grape cap on a fermenting talha wine.
Amphora fermentation is a labor-intensive endeavor. Twice a day, winemakers use a wooden tool to punch down the grape cap that floats to the top of the pot, or else the carbon dioxide from fermentation will cause the clay to burst. A winemaker at one facility I visited told me, from her own experience, missing a punch-down can cause a dangerous and messy explosion. Over time, the grape solids settle to the bottom, and when the talha is drained from a hole near the bottom, the wine gets something like a natural filtration.

The inside of the pots are usually lined with wax, which is applied by warming the interior of an upside-down talha, pouring in melted wax, and rolling the large pot around on its side until the wax hardens. This process is usually done once every 15 years or so, and can be repeated for the life of the pot. How long do they last? Several winemakers are still using 150- to 200-year-old pots, while Alentejo is home to some pots that are 500 years old.

Convention and experimentation

Cortes de Cima, a winery known for first planting Syrah against the appellation rules, is one of several well-known wineries that embraces the Alentejo tradition of amphora fermentation. The winery was founded by Hans Jorgensen (a Dane) and his wife Carrie (a Californian) in the late 80s. Anna, the couple’s young daughter and a vintner in her own right, takes pride in using the same method that local villagers have used for thousands of years. “These are our garagistes,” she said. Remarking on the increased attention amphora wines have received in recent years, she added, “It’s not hipster here. It’s how it’s always been done.”

For a winery known for surreptitiously producing Syrah, it’s perhaps not surprising that Cortes de Cima also does amphora wine a bit differently. The Jorgensens don’t line their vessels. Anna told me unlined vessels allow their wines to better engage with small amounts of oxygen through the porous clay. She said this helps lift the wine’s aromas and softens any rough edges.

In the cellar, she pointed to a small amphorae (about 150 liters), whose exterior is crusted and discolored with dried wine. A small puddle of wine had collected underneath the container. “This,” she said, “is the essence of what we do with these vessels.”

At first, I was skeptical, but the essence she spoke of is evident in the glass. Their 2015 Amphora was one of the most airy and elegant wines I tasted in Alentejo, with floral and red fruited aromas that pop. I wrote “textural freshness!” in my notebook and underlined it several times.

Paulo (of Adega José de Sousa) also riffs on the ancient method in his own way. In addition to bottling a white blend and a red blend, he uses portions of talha-fermented wines to blend in with other wine that have been fermented in concrete vats and aged in oak and old chestnut barrels. While not the clearest example of amphora-fermented wine, they’re both fascinating wines, and the amphora wine adds brighter notes to the more concentrated, barrel-aged wines.

Even the region’s powerhouse producer, Esporão, who produces 15 million bottles of wine a year, uses talhas. Winemaker David Baverstock said he produces about 3,000 liters of amphora wine annually, but hopes to increase production to 10,000 liters. It’s a drop in the bucket in terms of total output, but it sends a signal: talha production is important, and worth sustaining. “It’s a nice mix of old and new technology here,” David said.

Keeping tradition alive

Antonio Rocha, the first person to make these talha in Alentejo in 50 years, crafts each of these amphora by hand, layer by layer.
For almost 2,000 years winemakers sourced their amphorae from local craftspeople. Talk about sustainable — the region is rich in clay soils and the finished product can be used by local winemakers for hundreds of years, potentially. But, some 50 years ago, the last talha producer died off, and so did the local knowledge. And I was told there’s only one craftsman in the region who still professionally lines talhas with wax.

But Alentejo producers have kept the tradition going, trading talhas amongst themselves, purchasing them from other regions. I spoke with several winemakers who bought their talhas from Italy, and one (in a shock to me) said he bought his from a potter in California’s San Joaquin Valley.

Antonio Rocha is looking to change this dynamic. The 56-year-old built a career in construction, until the industry tanked, and he was forced to reinvent himself. In 2017, he formed Telheiro Artesenal, and he became the first person in Altentejo in a half-century to build new 1,000-liter talhas.

Antonio Rocha in his workshop.
There was no one to teach him, so he learned by doing, using his hands and a small putty knife. It’s a one-man show, and Antonio produces ten talhas at a time, layer by layer. Each layer has to dry before the next is built on top, so the process takes four months. Then, he fires the clay in an underground kiln, which he built, of course, by hand. Antonio sold his first batch of talhas to a museum, but he said demand from wineries far surpasses supply. He said he hopes to get some cultural preservation funding from the European Union to help him keep this project going, and perhaps expand.

Many of the talha wines I tasted and enjoyed on my trip can be found in the United States, although most are made in small amounts. The price ranges are attractive considering the quality, and many of the wines I tasted cost about $20, while some range to $40 or so. They’re exciting, dynamic wines that I personally would love to see on more restaurant lists or by-the-glass lists at wine bars. Georgian amphora wines have seen exponentially large attention from U.S. consumers over the last decade. While Alentejo wines are a smaller category, the quality is there, and the wines scream of tradition, excitement, deliciousness, value. I think the next decade could be a very bright one for Alentejo amphora wines.

Below are some of the best talha wines I tasted on my trip, all of which were tasted sighted with the producers. I’ve included price estimates from U.S. importers when available.

2016 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Branco
$20
Pretty deep yellow color. Wow, so breezy on the nose yet deep, with oranges, salted lime, almond, green olive. Brisk on the palate but rich texture, lovely smoothness, and flavors of oranges and apricot. Complex elements of almond, sea salt, olive, honeycomb. This is a field blend of white varieties from 50- to 60-year-old vines, and it is something to behold. A blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha and Manteúd. (91 points)

2016 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto
$20
Airy and bright on the nose, inviting, fresh, lively, with red fruits, roses and pepper. Brisk and fresh on the palate with medium tannins, combining for a tangy but smooth feel to this wine. Lovely red cherries, spiced tea and pepper. A co-fermented field lend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Moreto and Tinta Grossa. (91 points)

2015 Herdade do Rocim Clay Aged

Deep color. Nose of blackberries, plums, blueberry, pepper, the fruit is dark but the wine smells so bright. Velvety on the palate, freshness reigns supreme, but tannins provide serious guts to the wine. Plums, blackberry, berry compote, a velvety and gorgeous mouthfeel supports the fruit. Smoke, pepper, earth, clove and tobacco. Beautiful stuff that will age for a long time. Crushed in marble lagares, aged in 140-liter amphorae. (92 points)

2015 Cortes de Cima Amphora
$45
Aromas of warm cherries, raspberries, plums, with lifted floral tones and spiced tea. So silky on the palate despite the tannic structure, this is also a fresh and bright wine. Plums, raspberries and black cherries, the fruit is laced with warm spices, earth. Texturally intriguing and so fresh and inviting. Aragonez, Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira aged 14 months in amphora. (91 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Amphora Branco

Clay sample. This unfinished wine is awesome. Brisk and floral aromas on the nose with apricot and lemon pith. The palate is bright and tangy but shows an earthy, waxy depth with flavors of almond and spiced white tea. Intriguing and delicious. (91 points)

2017 Adega Cooperativa de Borba Vinho de Talha Tinto

So floral and bright on the nose with red berries, roses and rhubarb. Fresh, silky, gorgeous on the palate, this is 13.5% alcohol with dusty tannins and refreshing acidity. Strawberries and raspberries, topped with dried roses, dusty earth and fresh rhubarb. Crisp, mineral-driven finish. (91 points)

2015 Adega José de Sousa Puro Talha Branco

A medium orange color. Smells of candle wax, candied orange and lemon pith. 11.5% alcohol on the palate, but the texture is deep and plush, hints of tannin (whole cluster fermentation here), with bright acidity that keeps the wine moving. Lemon pith, orange peel, apricot pit, the fruit is topped in seriously complex notes of mushroom broth, green tea leaves, honeyed tea, candle wax, and dusty minerals. Complex, nerdy but so, so delicious. Wow. (93 points)

2015 Adega José de Sousa Puro Talha Tinto

So floral on the nose, with complex roses, violets, black tea and incense sticks on top of raspberries and red apple peel. Crisp and lip-smacking on the palate, tannins provide structure but have rounded edges, and I get crunchy raspberries and red apple peel. Notes of leather, incense, earth and clay, warm spice, complex elements of mushroom and savory broth. Gorgeous, such precision and balance, I’d love to age this for five to ten years. Fascinating, special, delicious. (94 points)

Monday, June 11, 2018

Wine Reviews: International Grab bag

A lot of the wine samples I receive don’t fit neatly into a thematic whole — hence this week’s “grab bag” collection of wines. Some goodies in here to highlight, though!

Nobilo’s widely-available Marlborough wines make another appearance, delivering accessible, tasty wines that are a good first step into New Zealand. A few California Pinots from 2016 entice, while Southern Oregon’s Troon Vineyard delivers yet again with some serious reds from Applegate Valley.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.


2016 Bodega Colomé High Elevation Vineyards - Argentina, Salta
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Rich and lush aromas of plums, blackberries, blueberries, along with violets, loamy soil and graphite. Full-bodied with smooth but structured tannins and fresh acidity. Lovely depth and balance with rich but tangy fruit (blackberry, blueberry, dark plums). Complex earthy, loamy notes with graphite, mineral, iron, coffee and cedar. All Malbec aged 15 months in French oak. From vineyards that range in elevation from 5,700 feet to a staggering 10,200 feet. Gorgeous now but can cellar for at least a few years. (90 points)


2017 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Regional Collection - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $13
Light lemon colored. Bright aromas of lemon pepper seasoning, jalapenos, cut flower stems, along with lemons and green apples. Bright acidity on a light/medium-bodied frame, with lemon crème, green apples, orange peel, topped with cucumber slices, lemongrass and honeysuckle. Always a reliable, tasty introduction to Marlborough Sauv Blanc, and good for the price. (86 points)


2017 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Icon - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $22
Pale lemon color. Aromas of green apples, grapefruit, lemon, along with spicy green herbs and cucumber slices. Crisp and lively on the palate with tangy acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Flavors of green apple and grapefruit blend well with lemongrass, cucumber slices, notes of mineral and sea salt. A bit deeper and more complex than the regular bottling. (87 points)


2015 Nobilo Pinot Noir Icon Marlborough - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $22
Deep ruby color. Nose shows black cherries and wild raspberries, with an interesting mix of sage, rhubarb, red pepper flakes, roses and coffee. Zesty acid on the palate with a fresh approach and light tannins. Spicy red currants and strawberries, some black cherries, I also get notes of spiced tea, roses, clove and rhubarb. Delicious, quite complex for the price, a fun, early-drinking Pinot. (88 points)

2016 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir Morning Dew RanchUSA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Inviting aromas of plums, kirsch, sweet cherries, rhubarb, cola, lightly roasted coffee. Full-bodied on the palate, nicely structured with medium tannins and acidity. Juicy and fruity with black cherries, dark plums, jammy raspberries, saucy but shows a lot of complexity in the form of cola, violets, clove, sarsaparilla, and an earthy/pine resin notes. Rich and forward but well-done. 13.9% alcohol, aged 10 months in French oak. (91 points)


2016 FEL Pinot NoirUSA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $38
Deep ruby color. Pretty aromatic display of lavender, roses, eucalyptus on top of tart red currants and juicy black cherries. Full-bodied, super juicy, with structured but plush tannins and refreshing acidity. Dark yet tart cherries and currant fruit, mixed well with elements of spiced tea, cola, rhubarb, violets, pine needle and forest floor notes. Big but vibrant, with a cool mineral streak that lingers on the finish. I’d hold this for a year or two and let it open up, but a very pretty Anderson Pinot. (91 points)


2015 Troon Vineyard Tannat Kubli BenchUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Light purple color. Aromas of plums, black cherries, dark currants, along with loam, anise, violets, clove and leather – really complex. Solid grip on the tannins, the zesty acidity is glorious. I get tart black cherries and currants along with leather, coffee, violets. All wrapped up in a serious, structured but fresh wine that should age wonderfully. Another beautiful Applegate Valley wine from Troon. Includes 4% Tempranillo. (92 points)


2015 Troon Vineyard M*T ReserveUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Rich purple color. Dark aromas of black cherries, blueberries and cassis, with violets, pencil lead, scorched earth and violets. Serious grip but fresh acidity, the balance is wonderful with the tart blackberry and cassis fruit. Notes of pepper, clove, grilled herbs, iron, pencil lead and violets. Elegant yet so complex, this will age wonderfully. 52% Tannat, 46% Malbec, 2% Tempranillo. (92 points)


N.V. Warre Porto Warrior - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. A nice mix of tart black currant and sweet cherry cake topping, along with vanilla, sweet violets, dark chocolate. Rich texture, sweet and nutty with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Rich currant and cherry fruit mixed with dark chocolate shavings, mesquite chips, notes of cocoa and honeyed black tea. Delicious, accessible Port, and a steal for the price. (88 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terrorist.

Saturday, June 2, 2018

Virginia Wine Wows Again with 2018 Governor's Cup Winners

This week, this DC-based guy is sipping locally: Virginia wine. 

For the past few years, I’ve had the pleasure of tasting through the top wines from the
Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition. Each year, a group of esteemed judges (led by MW Jay Youmans) taste through hundreds of different Virginia wines, poring through for the best. 

To enter, the wine must be produced from 100% Virginia grapes, and this year, more than 440 wines were entered into the competition. The top 12 are gathered into a case as an example of what Virginia has to offer the wine world. 

Among the 2018 winners, I was quite impressed by two Bordeaux-variety-based reds from The Barns at Hamilton Station. I hadn’t heard of this winery, but was wowed, and pleased to learn the wines were made by French-born turned iconic Virginia winemaker Michael Shaps. Petit Verdot again makes a steady impression, both as a varietal wine and a blending grape. 

Two Viogniers (the 2015 and the 2016) from Virginia really stand out as examples of pure, vibrant, exciting Virginia examples of this grape. And, as usual, some dessert wines wowed the judges.

My notes on the top 12 wines are below. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 


2015 Jefferson Vineyards Viognier - Virginia
SRP: $35
Pale yellow color. Nose of white peaches, guava, lime, with floral perfume, dandelion, hints of chalky mineral notes. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity, plush texture yet lively throughout. Lemon curd, apricot, white peach, lime, the fruit is mixed in with lemon verbena, peach blossom, floral tea. Complex yet so fresh it goes down easily. Impressive stuff. Includes a combined 9% of Chardonnay, Petit Manseng and Riesling. (89 points)


2016 Jefferson Vineyards Viognier - Virginia
SRP: $30
Pale yellow color. Aromas of white peaches, lime, pineapple, there’s a bright mix of white and yellow flowers with notes of honeycomb and raw almond. Complex textural depth, plush texture but the acidity is crisp, and the balance is lovely. Tart lemon and lime, drizzled on papaya and white peaches, the fruit is laced with notes of chalk dust, white flowers, crushed shells, spiced floral tea. Delicious, just a bit more for me than the 2015, but they’re both excellent. Includes 8% Petit Manseng and 2% Chardonnay. (90 points)


2016 Potomac Point Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Central Virginia
SRP: $43
Light purple color. Lots of tobacco, soy, roasted herbs and tobacco on the nose, with tart red and black cherries. Full-bodied (14.5%) with fleshy tannins, fresh acid, and a core of tart black cherries and plums. Rich, velvety fruit, topped in tobacco leaf, cedar, pencil lead, coffee. Accessible now or hold for a few years. Includes 10% Merlot, the wine is aged 15 months in a mix of new and second-fill French oak. (89 points)


2016 Keswick Vineyards Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $55
Light purple color. Rich aromas, mixing black and red currants and cherries, with roasted coffee, sage, tobacco, grilled herbs – lots of complexity in here. Structured tannins on the palate with crisp, lip-smacking acidity, balanced so well with tart red and black currants and plums. Notes of smoky charcoal, anise, black pepper, some olive and leather. Such an impressive Virginia Cab Franc from an excellent producer, this could be cellared for at least a few years, but accessible now. Includes 7% Cabernet and 2% Petit Verdot. (91 points) 


2014 The Barns at Hamilton Station Meritage - Virginia
SRP: $42
Light purple color. Tart red and black currants on the nose, with sage, bell pepper, violets and tobacco. Plush tannins on the palate, but structured, with refreshing acidity. Ripe but tart fruit (red and black currants and cherries). Notes of violets, black pepper, cocoa, mushroom, spicy cedar. A tart, earthy, complex mix of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Malbec, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (89 points)

2014 King Family Vineyards Meritage - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $70
Deep purple color. Boastful fruit on the nose but fresh and tart (black cherry, plums, red currants), with cocoa, eucalyptus, spiced black tea, vanilla, lots of complexity. Crisp acid frames the palate, structured tannins provide support, and I get lots of tart black cherries and plums. Complex notes of pencil shavings, black pepper, smoky charcoal, grilled herbs. Pure, vibrant, long way to go, but this is beautiful. Merlot with 23% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points) 


2015 The Barns at Hamilton Station Petit Verdot - Virginia
SPR: $38
Deep purple color. Dark and rich aromas of roasted blackberries, dark plums, charcoal, violets, roasted coffee, violets, black pepper. Bright acidity draws you in on the palate while strong tannins provide grip. Dark and tangy currants and plums, violets, coffee, charcoal, with notes of roasted herbs and iron, black pepper. Some cedar and anise lingers on the finish. This is a serious Petit Verdot that has real aging potential. Aged 20 months in French oak. (90 points) 


2015 North Gate Vineyard Petit Verdot - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $32
Medium purple color. Nose of black cherries, plum cake, tart black currant, with anise, iron, black tea, graphite. On the palate, this shows fresh acidity, the tannic backbone frames the wine well, and there is a lot of tart black currant, smoky blackberries, the balance between the different elements is impressive. Notes of anise, spiced black tea, clove, black pepper, smoky-charcoal. This will age quite nicely for a while, but it’s also accessible in youth. Includes 5% Merlot. (89 points)

2015 Veritas Vineyard Petit Verdot Paul Shaffer 7th Edition - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $40
Rich purple color. Deep, big aromas of concentrated blackberries, tart cassis, with eucalyptus, mint, magic marker and some woody-cedar notes. Concentrated and young on the palate with stiff tannins (serious grip) and medium acidity. Blackberry fruit, plum skin, tart cassis, with complex notes of incense sticks, eucalyptus, graphite, anise. This needs a long time in the cellar but the quality is obvious. Includes 10% Merlot, aged 16 months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)


2015 Early Mountain Vineyards Eluvium - Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $38
Light purple color. Oh wow, on the nose this is something: rich black cherry, cassis, red currant, some charcoal, pencil lead, tobacco smoke, eucalyptus, cedar. On the palate, medium acidity, firm but not harsh tannins, the fruit is juicy and ripe but equally tart (blackberry, tart currant), and mixed with pencil led, pine forest, mint, cedar and coffee grounds. This is downright gorgeous, it’ll be so long-lived but not too brutish in youth. 82% Merlot and 17% Petit Verdot. (91 points)


2014 Barboursville Vineyards Paxxito - Virginia
SRP: $32/375ml
Rich orange color. Gorgeous aromatics of apricot jam, orange marmalade, spiced tea, yellow raisins. The palate is rich and plush and honeyed, but acidity keeps it fresh. Orange marmalade, spiced tea, honeycomb, almond, graham cracker, a hint of floral olive oil. So luscious and sweet yet fresh and spicy. 50% Moscato Ottonel and 50% Vidal. 13.8% alcohol, 14% residual sugar. (90 points) 


2015 CrossKeys Ali d'Oro - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $30/375ml
 Bold golden color. Aromas of orange marmalade, candied apple, apricot jam, with notes of honeyed white tea, candied ginger, almond. Juicy and ripe and plenty sweet but the acidity is moderating in a sense. Apricot and orange jams with glazed peaches, honey and sweet guava nectar. Pure, fruity and fun. A blend of 50% Tranimette and 50% Vidal Blanc, residual sugar about 24%, alcohol 10%. (87 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.