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Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Historic Sanford Wines Still a Benchmark

The first time I heard of California Pinot Noir producer Sanford was while watching a movie in the theater. You may have heard of it: Sideways.

I was living in New York, not yet of legal drinking age, but I had the early stages of the wine bug after a few years of high school in Germany. I distinctly remember having the rare day off work at Kinko’s, so I caught a matinee showing of the film. At this point, I had never visited California, but as I watched Miles and Jack sip wines with Sanford tasting room manager Chris Burrows, I took note — more investigation of this Cali Pinot thing was in order.

John Terlato (left), me, and Michael Benedict (right).

Of course, for decades before Hollywood got involved, Sanford had been a crucial part of the California wine landscape.

It all starts in the late 1960s and early 1970s, when botanist Michael Benedict and his friend Richard Sanford set out to find a cooler climate area where they could ripen (but not over-ripen), wine grapes. After gathering, analyzing and scrutinizing data concerning weather, climate, soils, etc., they decided on an area of the Santa Ynez Valley, a region that would later become the “Sta. Rita Hills” American Viticultural Area. The first Sanford & Benedict Vineyard vines were planted in 1971, and two years later, they planted the first Pinot Noir vines.

Michael Benedict and Richard Sanford split after the 1980 vintage, and Richard sold his interest in the vineyard and founded Sanford Winery. There was a lot of back-and-forth in the following years, as control of the vineyard and the winery shifted hands.

La Riconada Vineyard, which abuts the Sanford & Benedict vineyard, was planted in 1997, and this would also become home to the winery and tasting room. The Terlato family partnered with Sanford Winery in 2002, making investments in the vineyards and winery. They became the majority owner and managing partners. In 2007, they purchased the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, re-uniting the winery with its original site.

Earlier this year I had the great pleasure of meeting John Terlato and Michael Benedict. We tasted through a variety of new and aged Sanford Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and discussed the special place these wines have in the history of California viticulture.

The wines are currently made by Trey Fletcher (senior winemaker) and Laura Roach (assistant winemaker). Cellar master Auggie Rodriguez has been working at Sanford for more than 20 years, and his father was hired to plant the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard in the early 1970s.

With all this history, how do the winery’s current releases stand up? Well, I recently tasted some new Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and found them vibrant, delicious, and highly satisfying. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.



2018 Sanford Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. So bright on the nose, with lime, kiwi, green and yellow apples, with honey, sea salt, nougat and ginger nuances. Plush, beautiful texture, bright acidity, balanced so well. Flavors of lemon curd, yellow apple and apricot, topped in sea salt, almond skin, hay, white tea. All the elements are woven together really well, and this is so bright, pretty and also age-worthy. There’s a lot to unpack in here over the next few years. (91 points)



2017 Sanford Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $50
Vibrant yellow color. So fresh on the nose, with lemon curd, yellow apples, apricot, and all these sea salt, white flowers and hay elements. Rich texture, plush but so balanced, with focused, crisp acidity. Lovely pear, lemon curd and kiwi fruit, doused in attractive notes of sea salt, wet rocks, crushed chalk, and the notes of vanilla and toffee and blended in so well. Concentration and depth are there, but so fresh and tangy, too. I’d love to see what four to five years can do to this wine. (93 points)



2017 Sanford Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Bold ruby color. Juicy cherries and strawberries on the nose, along with generous floral, white pepper and rhubarb elements. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied wine with smooth tannins, crisp acidity, and a mix of pretty, chilled, vibrant red fruits (strawberries, McIntosh apple, wild raspberries). Complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, tilled soil, all woven in well, accented with light roast coffee and cola. For the price, this is such a great value. This is ready to drink, but this could also age well for years ahead. The fruit is sourced mostly from Sanford and Benedict Vineyard, 12% from La Rinconada. (91 points)



2016 Sanford Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $72
Deep ruby color. Aromas of bright, generous red cherries, strawberries, and even at this young age it has this airy, lifted quality, with rhubarb, rose potpourri, some herbal tones. On the palate, this is fresh and inviting, built well tannin-wise, with rounded edges, and crisp acidity. Juicy, pretty cherries and raspberry fruit, mixed with violets, clove, pepper, rose petals and bay leaf. Nuanced cola and coffee, the whole package is sewn together so well. Aging potential in here, I’d love to see this in 8-10 years. (93 points)





This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Friday, November 22, 2019

The Exceptional Blaye Wines of Chateau Mondesir-Gazin

Marc Pasquet surveys the barrel room at Chateau Mondesir-Gazin
I had heard of Chateau Mondesir-Gazin's reputation, but I had not previously tasted any of Marc Pasquet’s wines before. But these wines were easily some of the best wines I tasted on a week-long trip to Bordeaux this summer.

The wines show wonderful balance and vibrancy. They have this long-aging, old school aesthetic, like what I imagine early 1980s Bordeaux wines tasted when they were young. But they’re also really delicious and full of beautiful fruit. The blend each year is almost always the same, about two-thirds Merlot with the rest Malbec.

Attracted to the terroir, Marc Pasquet purchased the estate in 1990. He transitioned the vineyards — planted in clay and limestone soils on slopes overlooking the Gironde River estuary — to organic farming. The close proximity to this large river moderates weather extremes like frost and hail.

Owner/winemaker Marc Pasquet is such a genuine dude. I had a great tasting and lunch with him, sharing stories and hearing about his passion, not just for his wines, but for wines from all over the world. He travels extensively and seems genuinely stoked about what other winemakers are doing, even though his own wines are quite traditional in their approach.

I highly recommend these wines, and a visit if you’re ever in the area.


2015 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Inviting and warm on the nose with cherries, blackberries, plums, with tobacco, cedar, violets. Great concentration on the palate but balanced so well, tannins are solid but not harsh, vibrant acidity. Tangy and juicy red and black cherries. Lots of woodsy, floral tones, earthy, violets, an underlying rocky, mineral presence. This has an old school, long-aging feel to it. Beautiful stuff. (92 points)


2012 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Suave red and black currants on the nose, deep and concentrated fruit with violets, leather, cocoa and anise. Serious grip on the palate with moderate acidity, black cherries and crunchy red currants. I get lots of menthol, leather, pine forest, black tea notes. And there’s a lot of graphite and mineral elements. This needs a lot of time but is really good stuff. (91 points)


2009 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Deep and ripe on the nose, beautiful, concentrated black cherries, with violets, anise, chewing tobacco, minty-earthy tones. Solid grip still but the tannins have fined-down edges, medium acidity keeps it fresh. Tangy black currant and plum fruit mixes with earth, tobacco, violets, clove. Evolving so well, beautiful stuff, plenty of years ahead. One of my favorite wines of the trip. (93 points)


2005 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
This is in a vibrant and lovely place. Nose shows red plums, red currant, with lots of savory tones (mushroom, mossy rocks, leaves) with leather and anise. But the wine is really alive and fresh – doesn’t smell tired at all. Serious grip still on the tannins with balanced acidity – this wine has a long time ahead. Red currants and cherries mix with complex notes of anise, pepper, leather. Balanced and lively, integrated well, and if stored properly a bottle of this should age well for another ten years. (93 points)






Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

This week, we have another round of new releases from California. In recent weeks, I’ve received a lot of different wines (whites and reds) from all over the state, from good bargains for early drinking, to splurge-worthy wines that should be cellared for a few Presidential elections.

For me, Steele wine from Lake County has long been a reputable producer of value-driven wines of high quality and distinction. The current crop of releases keeps going on that same track.

There are a few wines from different Gallo brands in this tasting, and some wines from the Hess Collection as well. I also tasted four wines from Hestan Vineyards (a first for me). These “Stephanie” label wines are sourced from a 56-acre estate vineyard, and all four of these wines hail from that vineyard’s 2015 vintage. I found these four wines (treated the same way in the cellar), offered a nice look into their vineyard and style, and I think the wines are really pretty and offer a lot of value compared to many other Napa reds.

Lastly, Napa stalwart Shafer contributes three exciting wines. And the Relentless Syrah and Hillside Select Cabernet strut their stuff.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.



Whites

2018 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc Bien Nacido Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Bright and juicy nose of kiwi, peaches and pineapple, with lots of floral tones (dandelion, honeysuckle, orange blossom). Nice creaminess on the palate, balanced well with bright acidity. Tangy and fresh but plump with lemon curd, pineapple and peaches. Topped in sea spray, floral perfume, cut flower stems, some hints of love and white pepper, too. Lovely stuff at a great price. Stainless steel-fermented (maloactic fermentation, too) and aged in old French oak. (88 points)


2017 Steele Wines Chardonnay Cuvée - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $24
Light gold color. Nose boasts yellow apples, apricot, guava, a tropical but zesty blend with honey, sea salt and wildflowers. Plush texture on the palate, crisp acidity, and there’s a nice mix of papaya, yellow pears, lime juice. Notes of chalk, sea salt, honey and graham cracker add complexity, and there’s this real sense of vibrancy, harmony and balance that is rare to find in a Chardonnay at this price point. Tons of value, highly recommended. Aged eight months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)


2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay Winemaker's Series - California, Napa Valley, Coombsville
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. On the nose, yellow apples, juicy pears, oranges, with cinnamon, salted nuts, hay and honeycomb. Medium+ bodied, creamy yet zesty acidity. Juicy green and yellow apples, lemon curd, the fruit is balanced with chalky, crushed shell vibes, and richer notes of nougat and pie crust. Rich and deep but balanced and vibrant as well. Sourced from Haynes Vineyard old vine Wente clone Chardonnay. (90 points)


2017 San Simeon Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $19
Deep gold color. The nose pops with honeybutter, candied pecans, peanut brittle and ginger, over top bruised apple and orange marmalade. Plump and creamy texture with medium acid, and plenty of juicy pineapple, yellow apple and orange marmalade fruit. Hedonistic elements of toasted pecan, honey and oak round out the finish. Rich, fun and yummy. Barrel-fermented (75% new French and American oak), and this goes through about 70% maloactic fermentation. (86 points)


2016 Maddalena Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $15
Intense gold color. On the nose: hunks of pineapple, baked apple, with toasted nuts, nougat, whipped honey and cinnamon sticks. Plump and texturally rich with medium/low acidity. Honeyed, waxy and nutty with baked apple and pears and lemon bars. Notes of almond brittle and peanut as well. For fans of juicy, nutty, oaky Chardonnay. This sees 30% new American and French oak, and 35% maloactic fermentation, sourced from three vineyards in Arroyo Seco and the Santa Lucia Highlands. (85 points)


2017 The Hess Collection Chardonnay Panthera - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. Aromas are rich and inviting, with pineapple, lemon curd, sea salt, ginger, cinnamon. Very pretty texture, plump, full, medium/low acidity but the wine stays lively. Lemon curd, yellow apple and pineapple, topped in ginger, cinnamon coffee cake, and honey tones, but also brighter elements of white flowers and crushed chalky. Bold but nuanced. Aged 18 months in 35% new French oak. (89 points)

Reds


2016 Talbott Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $45
Medium ruby color. I like these aromas of spicy cranberries, tangy strawberries, with bright notes of white pepper, sweet roses and rhubarb. Medium+ bodied on the palate with soft tannins, and super fresh, zippy acidity. Juicy cherries, spiced cranberry sauce, sweet red plums, the fruit is mixed with rhubarb, clove, white pepper and roses. I like the vibrancy, and these mushroom, earth tones underneath. A lot of personality and freshness. (89 points)


2016 Maddalena Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $17
Vibrant purple color. Smells of sweet plums, blueberry jam, with violets, vanilla and mocha. Full and smooth, chewy and dark with velvety tannins and medium/low acidity. Blackberries and blueberry jam, bold and fruity but not too over-the-top. Notes of anise, dark chocolate and mocha. Juicy and fruit-forward but it holds itself together well for a wine at this price point. (85 points)


2016 San Simeon Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Medium purple color. Nose shows tangy black currants, wild blueberries, with a nice kick of smoky earth, cracked black pepper and green herbs. Fresh acidity frames the wine quite nicely, accessible tannins, the balance is attractive. Tart black currants and black cherries, with notes of incense sticks, spice rub, cocoa and vanilla. Fun, early-drinking style, but it could actually improve for two or three years. Aged 36 months in a mix of new and old French and American. (87 points)


2016 Mount Peak Winery Zinfandel Rattlesnake - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $48
Bright purple color. Smells of sweet black cherries, plum cake, with sweet cocoa, anise, vanilla cookies. Rich and huge on the palate (16%), with chewy tannins and just enough acidity to carry itself. Jammy, juicy, with plums, raspberries, black cherries, roasted figs, with sweet pipe tobacco, coffee, vanilla, hazelnut crème. Lush and bold, but well-done and undeniably delicious. From mostly Monte Rosso Vineyard fruit. (89 points)


2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $28
Medium purple color. Juicy black cherries and smoky cherries on the nose, with charcoal, anise and black pepper notes. Medium/full-bodied, nice grip but the tannins have rounded edges, and the acidity is lively. Dusty, juicy ad pleasantly spicy, as black cherries blend well with nose of rose petals, charcoal, scorched earth and pepper. Smooth coffee and vanilla woven in well. Lots of depth, freshness, and this could even improve for a few years. Impressive Lake County value, per usual from Steele. Aged 18 months in 30% new French and America oak. (88 points)


2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $20
Loving the spicy aromas here (oregano, sage, black pepper, clove) on top of juicy cherries and raspberries. Vibrant acidity frames the wine well, a medium-bodied frame, velvety but structured tannins, nicely balanced. Black cherries and raspberry jam topped in anise, pepper, cocoa. Fresh and delicious with a spicy, earthy, herbal, floral finish. Aged 14 months in 30% new French and American oak. (88 points)


2017 The Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Lion Tamer - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. Lush, inviting nose of sweet plums, red and black currants, and lavender, dark chocolate, coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied, velvety and suave with lively acidity, tangy red and black cherries, juicy but fresh fruit. Nicely integrated aspects of coffee, sweet green herbs, black tea, with nuanced vanilla and cedar. Lots going on, but really accessible now. Cabernet, 11% Petite Sirah, 8% Malbec. Aged in 33% new French and American oak for 20 months. (90 points)


2015 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $175
Dark purple color. Gorgeous, deep nose of currants, black cherries and plum skin, with eucalyptus, sweet pipe tobacco, scorched earth, vanilla – complex! Full and plush on the palate with smooth tannins, and delightful acidity, so the balance works out quite well. Rich, juicy plums, black cherries, black currants. The fruit melds well with complex graphite, charcoal, loamy and rocky earth, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, with notes of vanilla and cedar rounding things out. Long, lush finish. Lovely stuff that will do well with three to five years in the cellar and hold for quite some time. All Cabernet (a blend from various vineyards in Napa) aged 20 months in 97% new French oak. (93 points)


2017 Shafer TD-9 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Delightful nose, deep, rich and vibrant, with black cherries, blackberries, topped with scorched earth, graphite, and coffee. Full but smooth, suave and velvety tannins, but vibrant acidity, which keeps it lively. Pretty plum, currant and cherry fruit, with violets, earth and coffee. Complex, structured, deep, but also lively and downright fun to drink. This is delicious now but also could improve over the next handful of years. 62% Merlot, 22% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 20 months in all new French oak. (92 points)


2016 Shafer Relentless - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. So much to unpack on the nose, it’s kind of crazy. Gorgeous boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit, tossed with waves of pepper, anise, clove, leather, charcoal and espresso elements. Obviously full-bodied and burly, this is big stuff but the acidity actually keeps it lip-smacking in spite of its richness. The freshest, sweetness blueberries and blackberries, and the fruit is laced with leather, pepper, spicy herbs, charcoal and rocky earth tones. Complex and rich, yet effortless and pure — a beautiful young Relentless that is built the long haul (a decade at least would do it good). Syrah and 10% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in all new French oak. (96 points)


2015 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap DistrictSRP: $310
Deep, concentrated purple color. The aromas are dark and rich, and the wine needs time to show the full aromatic display: dark currants, plum cake, fig paste, along with violets, espresso, graphite, smashed rocks, scorched earth and vanilla. Full-bodied, grippy and young, but it shows moderating acidity, and it amounts to a bold, concentrated but smooth and integrate feel. Boysenberry, black currants and black cherries abound (exquisite fruit), and it’s matched with complex notes of charcoal, graphite, rocky soil, also vanilla, sarsaparilla and cedar. Concentrated for the long-term, but also already elegant and expressive. All Cabernet aged 32 months in 100% new French oak barrels. (95 points)


2015 Hestan Vineyards Malbec Stephanie Selection - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Dark, saucy purple. Lush aromas of raspberries and blackberries, topped in sweet cocoa, mint, eucalyptus and violets. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, this is velvety and sports crisp acidity, framing the wine nicely. Blackberries and raspberries, accented with coffee, violets, cedar and vanilla. Plush and juicy but it has a bright, floral aesthetic with subtle earth, iron and minerals. Delicious. Includes a 7% mix of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)


2015 Hestan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Dark purple color. A nice tart, dark core of black cherries, roasted figs and sweet pipe tobacco. Powerful but suave, with a chewy texture and medium/low acidity. Lots of dark currants, tart blackberries, laced with graphite, smoky charcoal, and cool mint and eucalyptus notes. Lots of depth, but the balance is impressive. Five years should do this well. Includes a combined 16% Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)


2015 Hestan Vineyards Red Wine Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Inky purple color. Bold aromas of black cherries and cassis, concentrated but suave, with lots of black pepper, smoky charcoal, cedar and pencil shavings. Serious concentration and grip on the palate with tart black currants and juicy black cherries. Complex notes of spicy pepper, wild herbs, eucalyptus, charcoal, violets and anise. There’s a lot going on here, deep and concentrated, but also fresh, this could easily improve for 5-8 years. 32% Petit Verdot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Malbec, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)


2015 Hestan Vineyards Merlot Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. Smells of juicy red and black cherries, dark plums, lots of violets, rose petals, sweet coffee, pleasantly earthy elements. Medium/full-bodied with lively acidity, moderate tannins. Smooth plum and currant fruit blend well with potting soil, cigar box, with cedar, smoke and violet elements as well. Nice concentration, but balanced and quite fresh, too. This could do well with a few years in the cellar. Includes 9% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)



This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Friday, November 15, 2019

Lots to Love in "DC's Wine Country" - Loudoun County, Virginia

Washington, DC, has become my adopted hometown. When I first moved here from New York about a dozen years ago, I spent one of my first weekend trips hiking around the Potomac River and tasting wines in the area around Leesburg, Virginia. 

The wines I tasted were hit-and-miss, but I fell in love with the area, and have been trying to keep up with the wine scene since. Loudoun is full of beautiful spots, and with more and more quality wines coming out of this region, there is plenty to see and taste. 
“DC’s Wine Country” (yes, they’ve trademarked that) dates back to 1981, when Lew Parker planted his first grapes at Willowcroft Farm. Now, there are more than 40 wineries in the county.

During a recent online tasting coordinated by Virginia wine guru
Frank Morgan, I tasted through several wines from this Northern Virginia region. While many of the wines and wineries were familiar to me before, this tasting reminded me that I need to get back to Loudoun more often — there’s still so much to explore.  Casanel comes through with a sparkling Chardonnay, and I learned they also make a sparkling Norton that I now must try. Walsh Family makes some really good stuff, and I highly recommend tasting their wines if you get a chance. Their Viognier (notoriously fickle and frequently flabby) was one of the most vibrant Virginia iterations I’ve tasted in a long time. Breaux (another producer I really appreciate) has gotten a lot of praise over the years for their Meritage, Merlot and other reds — and for good reason. Lost Creek and 50 West were both new to me, and offer up some interesting red blends, especially 50 West’s Tannat/Petit Verdot-based blend, which I found fascinating. Lastly, I tasted a Merlot from Rocky & Co., and I found the wine very attractive. This Middleburg-based project seems like one I need to watch.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 


2015 Casanel Vineyards Chardonnay White Spark - Casey's Cuvee - USA, Virginia, Middleburg
SRP: $60
Light yellow color. Nose of tart lime, quince, sour lemon, with some perfume and sea spray notes. Zippy and tart on the palate, brisk with light bubbles and flavors of lime and crunchy green apples. Slight nutty and bread notes. Fun, fresh stuff, I’d love this with oysters. Made from all estate-grown Chardonnay, aged 36 months on the lees. (87 points)


2017 Walsh Family Wine Viognier - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $29
Light yellow color. Floral and bright (baby’s breath, spearmint, honeysuckle) over top of peaches, lime, apricot, a very lively and bright aromatic display for Viognier. Plump texture but the acidity frames the wine well, keeps it fresh. Creamy but crisp with yellow apple, juicy peach, limes. Complex notes of hay, honeycomb, chalk dust, white tea. Harmonious and vibrant, this is a seriously well-done Virginia Viognier. 13.5%, aged in old oak, a blend of fruit from Bethany Ridge and October One Vineyards. (89 points) 


2015 Breaux Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants, smoky tobacco, charcoal, leather and anise – super complex nose. Medium+ bodied, velvety tannins but nice backbone of acidity. A good mix of red and black fruits (currants, cherries) rich fruit but a tart edge, and some minty, smoky, beefy, peppery notes. Also some toasted coconut and vanilla, but it’s woven in well. Balanced, vibrant, expressive this is a really well-done Virginia Meritage. Aging this 2-3 years would be a great call. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, aged 18 months in oak. 13.9% alcohol. (89 points)


2016 Lost Creek Genesis - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $40
Deep ruby color. Bright cherries and red plums on the nose with tobacco, mint, roses, cinnamon and spiced tea. Zippy acidity keeps it really fresh, yet dusty tannins provide support, with tart cherries and currants. Notes of spicy pepper and black tea. Minty, spicy, floral and earthy notes. Really vibrant style, and while it’s ready to drink, I’d love to see what this does in three or four years. 67% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in French oak, 16% new. (87 points) 


2015 50 West Aldie Heights Cuvee - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $38
Bright purple color. Aromas gush with dark plums and black cherries, along with violets, mint and dark chocolate. Impressive concentration on the palate balances off of zesty acidity on a medium/full-bodied frame. Crushed black cherries, red and black currants, along with violets, clove, dark chocolate. Lots of vibrancy here, really tangy but also has enough depth and concentration to age for at least 3-5 years. 34% Tannat, 34% Petit Verdot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, 13.9% alcohol. (88 points) 


2017 Rocky & Co. Wines Merlot Reserve “Deterts” - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Middleburg
SRP: $49
 Medium ruby color. Spicy and lively on the nose, with a kick of rose petals, clove, pepper and sage over top of red and black cherries. Medium-bodied (13.3%), built well but a pleasant roundness to the tannins and lively acidity. Juicy cherry fruit (nuanced, bright and yummy), and I get a complex blend of violets, sage and earth, with cocoa, anise and coven woven in well. Delicious, complex, stuff, it gets really floral with air. I’d love to see this in three to five years. Four barrels made, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)



This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Sunday, November 10, 2019

Wine Reviews: Bubbles

Sparkling wine shows no signs of slowing down with sales up 5.6% in 2018, making for 16 consecutive years of category growth.

Americans love their bubbles. Even after more than a dozen years of growth, sparkling wine in U.S. is still on the rise, up about 5% last year. And, with the holidays and the New Year coming up, it’s a good time to be on the lookout for inexpensive bubbles.

I recently received some sparkling wines from around the world, almost all of which come in under $25 — no Champagne here, sorry!

Most of these wines come from Freixenet Mionetto USA, an amalgamation of the two brands known for their Cava and Prosecco, respectively.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Gratien & Meyer Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé - France, Loire Valley, Crémant de Loire
SRP: $18
Deep copper color. Smells of peaches, red apple peel, with chalk, sweet roses and some oregano and mint. Crisp yet juicy and punchy on the palate, with plenty of juicy raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit. A light, brisk style with salty, floral and chalky notes. Vibrant, tasty, seafood-friendly stuff. (87 points)

N.V. Freixenet Prosecco Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $22
Light lemon color. Nose shows green apples, lemons, faint white flowers. Crisp and light on the palate with plump texture and medium acidity. Lemons, apricots, tangy green apples, this is a light, crisp, straightforward Prosecco with foamy, spritzy, floral appeal. Lemons and apricots topped in white and yellow flowers. Simple but balanced well, and the drier take makes this a really seafood- and salad-friendly Prosecco. (85 points)

N.V. Mionetto Prosecco Organic Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Aromas of lemons, limes, crushed sweet tarts, nettle, and a nice mix of white and yellow flowers. Crisp and bright on the palate, not too sweet, quite balanced and crunchy. Green apples, limes and kiwi fuse with chalky, salty notes, and lots of honeysuckle, baby’s breath and floral perfume. A crisp, chalky finish. Good amount going on here in this value-driven Prosecco. (86 points)

N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Brut - Spain, Cava
SRP: $12
Pale yellow color. Aromas show lemon curd and apricot with baby’s breath, sea salt and chalk zdust. Crisp and juicy on the palate with brisk acidity and a slight creaminess to the texture as well. Fresh, vibrant, with yellow apples and lemon curd. Notes of sea salt, cut flower stems and perfume add some complexity. Serious value here. (87 points)

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Nose boast juicy peaches, apricot, lemon crème, with chalky, floral, honeyed notes. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles blend well with a round, creamy texture and flavors of sweet white peach, yellow apple and apricot. Notes of honey, chalk, floral perfume add complexity. A reliably solid California sparkling wine that is widely available and a real value. (88 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light salmon color. Smells of strawberries, red apples, apricot, light chalky, crushed shell notes, with some spice and white floral tones. Round texture on the palate, slight but balanced sugar, moderate acidity. A dusty, chalky, talc feel with fresh roses, green tea leaves and clove notes to accent the red apple and strawberry fruit. Juicy and plump, but vibrant as well. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier aged 30 months on the lees. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.