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Monday, June 29, 2020

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

I’m back this week with a roundup of some recent wine samples from all over California.

This week, I take a look at some wines from Carneros’ Ram’s Gate Winery, which bring some nationally-distributed Chardonnay and Pinot Noir worthy of checking out.

Napa’s Castello di Amorosa offers up some solid wines, but their Gewurztraminer (surprisingly) really stands out.

Cliff Lede provides two splurge-worthy Napa Cabernets that show depth, elegance, and aging potential.

And a couple other wines are sprinkled in for good measure. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


Sparkling, White & Rosé

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Cuvée 20 - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $38
Gold color with nose of white flowers, green apples and pears, orange peel, with some pie crust and chalk dust elements. Crisp and zippy on the palate with a chalky, bright feel, and subtle biscuits, pie crust. Lemon, green apple and melon, with sea salt and sugar cane tones. Juiciness and sugar are woven in well with the brighter elements. Solid value, consistent sparkler. 51% Chardonnay, 41% Pinot Noir, 8% Pinot Meunier. (88 points)

2018 The Paring Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. A punchy burst of limes and peaches on the nose, with cucumber slices, mint and sliced jalapeno. Zippy and crisp on the palate, with white peach, lemons, limes, a crisp and crunchy feel. Stony, bright but shows depth and complexity. (88 points)

2019 Balverne Sauvignon Blanc Forever Wild - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $27
Pale lemon color. Vibrant aromas of lime, green apple, with mint, white pepper, cucumber slices and honey. Creamy texture on the palate with medium acidity, bright lemons, white peach and nectarine fruit. Notes of mint, baby’s breath, verbena add complexity, along with honeyed waxy tones. Fun, fresh, but also complex, vibrant. (89 points)

2019 Castello di Amorosa Gewürztraminer - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $29
Light yellow color. Bold and ripe aromas of lychee, white peach and guava, topped in honey and white flowers. Full-bodied, creamy with chunks of fruit (papaya, white peach, lychee, kiwi), but balanced and vibrant as well. Notes of salted almond, candied orange peel, clove and spiced tea. This is a ripe but fresh Gewurztraminer that has a friendly, lively appeal to balance the tropical density. Well done. (91 points)

2018 Castello di Amorosa Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $39
Medium yellow color. Nose shows apricot and orange peel with ginger snaps, graham cracker, sea salt. Full-bodied on the palate with a rich texture, medium acidity keeps it delightful. Apricot, orange peel, lemon crème, with notes of shaved ginger, toasted bread, honeycomb. This Chardonnay sets a lot of diverse, intriguing lines, offering a lot to consider, especially for the price. (91 points)

2017 Ram's Gate Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $42
Medium yellow color. Rich yet bright on the nose, with lemon curd, orange peel, with hazelnut, almond, ginger and graham cracker. Plump feel on the palate but fresh acidity, this sports creamy yellow apples, apricot, peach and lemon bars. Notes of hay, sea salt, dried yellow flowers, and elements of mineral, talc, topped in graham cracker and honeyed tea. Generous and plush but also stony, focused and bright. (91 points)

2019 Balverne Pinot Noir Rosé Forever Wild - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $24
Medium copper color. Bright aromas of lemon, tangerine, apricot, with daisies, mint, talc. Crisp and floral with focused acidity and bountiful peaches, lemon, apricot and orange pith. Notes of watermelon rind, mint, salted almond. A dry, brisk, vibrant style with a lot of depth to complement the gluggable nature. (88 points)

Red wines

2018 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir Il Rubino - USA, California, North Coast
SRP: $39
Medium ruby color. Aromas of raspberry and juicy strawberries, with mint, menthol, eucalyptus and pepper. Plummy, velvety texture with bright acidity, this really sings. Raspberry, cherries, with clove, black tea, clove, mint and white pepper. Complex, earthy, dried rose petals, with clay and dried leaves. Really pretty, expressive, a whole lot of fun and complexity herein. (90 points)

2017 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir Los Carneros - USA, California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $39
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of crushed cherries, raspberries and red plums, along with incense, menthol, mint, dried rose petals. On the palate, this shows velvety texture, moderate acidity, with fleshy, juicy fruit (cranberry sauce, plums, raspberry jam). Notes of clove, dark chocolate, roses and violets. There’s an underlying earthiness that is really attractive, too, and it stays lively. Aged 11 months in 45% new French oak. (88 points)

2017 Ram's Gate Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $46
Medium ruby color. On the nose, I get raspberries, strawberries and red cherries, vibrant and spicy, with leather, rose petals and paprika notes. Medium/full-bodied with velvety tannins, crisp acidity, this is fresh, ripe and balanced with strawberries, raspberries and red delicious apples – gorgeous fruit. Complex notes of herbal tea, warm clay, dry rub, pepper and earth. Long, vibrant, spicy finish. This is uniquely delicious. (91 points)

2017 The Paring Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. The nose sports dark plums and juicy blackberries, topped in clove, charcoal, spicy steak rub. Full but fresh on the palate, this has smooth tannins and medium acidity. A deep core of blackberry, blueberry, sweet, deep fruit but it has this tangy edge throughout. Notes of roasted chestnut, pepper, scorched earth, leather. There’s a lovely depth and level of complexity in here given the price point. A lot to love about grilled meats and veg and this wine. (90 points)

2018 River Road Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ReserveUSA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. Nose of black currants, raspberry jam, cranberry relish, with menthol, earth and clove. Fresh acidity frames the wine well, dusty tannins, a medium-bodied with with juicy red fruit (raspberry, tangy currants). Notes of spicy tobacco, menthol, tilled soil and clay round out this wine. Fun, fresh stuff for the price. Aged nine months in French and American oak. (86 points)

2017 Experience Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Aromas of saucy plums, currants, maraschino cherries, with mint and violet petals. Velvety texture on the palate, but zesty acidity frames it well, medium/full-bodied with soft tannins. Ripe dark fruit (currants and plums) play off mocha, coconut tones. Ripe but fresh, an accessible style but has a level of authenticity to it. Aged 17 months in 24% new French oak. (89 points)

2016 Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $90
Medium purple color. Enticing nose of plums, wild blueberries, prunes, currant jam, with leather, clove, wet soil, cedar and coffee grounds. Big but fresh on the palate, structured but the tannins have smooth edges, medium acidity balances things well. Pure, smooth, rich, tangy fruit (blueberries, plums, currants), laced with complexities of earth, smashed rocks, coffee grounds, tar and anise. Pristine and pretty despite its heft, this is beautiful but young and could use five to eight years in the cellar. 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in oak. (92 points)

2017 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Rock Block “Dancing Heart” ­ - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $110
Deep purple color. A host of deep, rich aromas: currants, blueberries, with vibrant floral tones, tilled soil, cedar and coconut shavings. Full and suave on the palate, the mouthfeel is beautiful, velvety tannins balanced well off fresh acidity. Tangy blueberries, deep currants, dark plums, the fruit is ripe but fresh and mixed with complex elements of graphite, iron, cocoa powder, sweet pipe tobacco. Voluptuous but vibrant, this is really yummy, complex stuff and holds its weight and oak really well. Aged 21 months in 85% new French oak. Give it a few years or a solid decant and a steak. (93 points)

2017 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $78
Dark purple color. On the nose, I get dark currant, black cherries, with smoky earth, tar, charcoal, graphite, with notes of vanilla. On the palate, this is full-bodied, velvety but structured, fresh acidity provides a mouthwatering aspect throughout. Juicy black currants and blueberries with complex notes of graphite, mocha, anise, sweet coffee, black tea. Some earthy, savory undertones will come out more with age (3-5 would do nicely), but this is beautiful stuff. Aged 21 months in 65% new French oak. (91 points)


Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Wine Reviews: The Exceptional Veneto Wines of Inama

I’ve been fascinated by the wines of Azienda Agricola Inama for quite a few years. Located in Soave Classico, winemaker Stefano Inama crafts classic Veneto wines with a lot of personality and depth, while also doing things a bit differently.

I have enjoyed this Veneto producer’s Soaves, sourced from sites Stefano’s father Giuseppe purchased in the 1960s near Mount Foscarino. But it was their Carmenère that really got me excited. Wine geeks surely know how this grape has found a new home in Chile after its history of being confused with Merlot in Bordeaux. It was brought to Italy from Southwest France some 150 years ago, where it was then commonly confused with Cabernet Franc. Regardless, in the warm, hilly area of the Colli Berici, the Carmenère grape has a found a home in which to thrive. When I met and tasted with Stefano in 2016, he told me, "Carmenere requires such an addiction.” And that intense focus on this grape is evident in the glass.

I recently tasted through some newly released wines from Inama, and I continue to find these wines to be great examples their region, while offering a sense of dynamism and excitement that makes them stand out.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Inama Soave Classico Vin Soave - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Nose shows peaches, cantaloupe melon, lime, with white flowers and sea salt; Crisp and bright on the palate but shows creamy depth and lovely balance. Lemon, peach, juicy pear, the fruit mixes well with notes of slices cucumber, mint, orange zest, steely, chalk dusty tones. Brisk but nice richness and depth, for an entry-level wine at this price, serious richness and complexity in here. (88 points)

2017 Inama Soave Classico Vigneti di Carbonare - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $28
Light gold color. Enticing nose of lemon, quince, white flowers, hay, along with fascinating tones of talc, saline and green olive. Rich texture, medium-bodied, bright acidity, the balance is lovely. Lemons, green apple, kiwi, the fruit is mixed with oyster shell, minerals, green olive, hay. There’s a purity and focus in this wine that is really attractive. Serious Soave that Muscadet or Chablis nerds should try. From the basalt soils of the Carbonare vineyard. (92 points)

2016 Inama Carménère Più - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Spicy nose of pepper, anise, paprika and mesquite over top of rec cherries and black and red currants. Medium-bodied on the palate, fresh acidity, nice grip on the palate, but no harsh edges. A silky but tangy feel with tart red and black currants and cherries. A host of complex spicy notes, like paprika, pepper, grilled steak. It opens up so well with air and shows more floral and elegant tones. I’d love to see this in four to six years. Special, fascinating Carmenere that includes 30% Merlot. (91 points)

2016 Inama Bradisismo - Italy, Veneto, Colli Berici
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose with black currants, roasted figs, black cherries, along with roasted chestnut, scorched herbs, graphite, violets and anise. Fresh acidity frames the wine nicely, on a medium/full-bodied frame, with solid tannic backbone. Roasted fig, blueberry and black cherry fruit, deep but tangy, and the fruit is laced with mesquite, pepper, soy, leather. Underlying mineral, graphite and cocoa powder tones. This will show best after about five years, I’d wager. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Carmenère, aged 14 months in oak, seven months in stainless steel, and 12 months in bottle. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thursday, June 4, 2020

Wine Reviews: California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Happy weekend, wine-lovers. I hope you’re all as safe and well as can be expected during these chaotic times. I’m back this week with two of my first wine loves: California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
My palate will always favor the more “Burgundian” styles, but I also enjoy and respect the juicier, darker styles as well. This report has a nice mix of producers, regions and styles. There are some serious values in here as well.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Chardonnay
2019 River Road Chardonnay Unoaked – USA, California
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon and orange peel, with mint, honeysuckle and clover. Crisp and punchy on the palate with a fresh, fun appeal. Lemon, apricot, orange peel, the fruit and herbal/floral tones stand out and make this is a seafood-friendly, value-driven style. (86 points)
2018 Qupé Chardonnay Y Block Bien Nacido Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $22
Medium yellow. Bright aromatics of see breeze and wild flowers on top of deeper notes of yellow apples and apricot, nougat, shaved ginger and graham cracker. Precise and fresh on the palate, lovely depth of texture and balanced. Yellow apples, lemon crème and apricot, mixed with meringue, salted almond, oyster shell, crushed rocks. Nuanced honeycomb and vanilla accents. A California Chard that makes me go, “Ahh…” in refreshment. What a bargain. Fermented and aged seven months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
2017 Mi Sueño Chardonnay – USA, California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $42
Deep yellow color. Aromas of plump peach, apricot, lemon curd, with hay, peanut shell, honey and chalk scents as well. Rich texture, creamy and honeyed on the palate, but fresh acidity, the depth and balance are quite impressive. Peach, apricot, yellow apple, plush fruit but brighter tones of chalk, river stones, crushed shells, with nuanced notes of honey, graham cracker. Vibrant, deep, a lot of class here, especially for the price. Aged 18 months in 30% new French oak, all maloactic fermentation. (91 points)
2018 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay Carneros – USA, California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Medium yellow color. Brighter aromas of green apple and lime mix with richer notes of apricot and orange marmalade, rounded out with yellow flowers, honey and chalk. Full-bodied, plump texture but vibrant acidity, with yellow apples and lemon curd fruit. Nuanced graham cracker, honey and ginger snap blend well with sea salt, chalk and wildflowers. Delightful, balanced. Fermented in 1/3 new French oak barrels and aged nine months on the lees. (90 points)
2018 Shafer Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch – USA, California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $52
Vibrant gold color. Deep, inviting aromas of apricot marmalade, orange peel, lemon curd, with brighter tones of sea salt, honeyed tea, chalk dust. Plush and smooth texture, this is full-bodied and round with creamy texture, but zesty acidity, which frames the wine well. Creamy pears, lemon curd and baked apple fruit, with nutty, almond, pistachio notes, cinnamon. There’s this crisp, flinty, mineral vibe underneath that is really exciting. Rich but lively, bold but nuanced, Red Shoulder Ranch does it again. This is the 25th anniversary vintage of this wine. (91 points)
2017 The Federalist Wines Chardonnay – USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $23
Deep yellow color. Aromas of creamy pear, glazed apple, lemon crème, with honeycomb, crumb cake and whipped butter. Rich texture on the palate, full-bodied, medium/low acidity. Shows creamy pear and peach fruit mixed with ginger, honey and yellow flowers. Not too heavy, shows nuance and value. Aged in a mix of 35% new American, Hungarian and French oak. (87 points)
2018 FEL Chardonnay Anderson Valley – USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Vibrant yellow color. Inviting nose of sea salt, hay and chalk on top of deeper, honeyed, baked pear and nougat notes. Zesty acidity frames this wine really well, it has a lot of vibrancy, but also plenty of creamy, textured pear, apple and lemon curd fruit. Notes of saline, sea spray and oyster shell mix with hazelnut, honeyed white tea and almond skin. I’m liking this vintage of a perennially-killer Anderson Valley Chardonnay. Sourced from Savoy and Ferrington Vineyards, this is fermented in old oak. (90 points)
2018 River Road Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. Nose shows lemons, peaches, with bright white flowers, dandelions, honey and crème. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity, not too creamy or rich, shows some nice verve and brightness. Limes, lemons and peaches tossed with peanut shell, honey butter, nougat, some cool mint and white pepper notes. Vibrant style, accessible but shows complexity and depth for the price. Fermented in a mix of stainless steel and oak. (88 points)
2018 Fort Ross Chardonnay Fort Ross Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $44
Light yellow color. Brisk and bright aromas of seashells, chalk, talc, with orange blossom, honeysuckle, over lemon curd and yellow apple. Bright acidity, beautiful texture, bold presence on the palate but zesty acidity keeps the wine in line. Gorgeous lemon, key lime pie, baked apple and apricot. Complex notes of sea salt, crushed shells, saline, honeysuckle. Beautiful, mouthwatering stuff that should age really well. Aged 11 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)
Pinot Noir
2017 Talbott Pinot Noir Kali Hart – USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $26
Pale ruby. Spicy herbs and pepper kick off the nose, with floral potpourri and cola on top of cranberry relish and wild strawberry. Medium/full-bodied with soft tannins and medium/low acidity. Ripe red cherries and spicy cranberry relish blends well with white pepper, grilled herbs, tobacco – really lovely spicy tones. Easy-drinking, fun buy spicy style. Aged nine months in 15% new French oak. (87 points)
2018 Laetitia Winery Pinot Noir Estate – USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Grande Valley
SRP: $27
Medium ruby color. Bright cherries on the nose, wild raspberries, with menthol, white pepper, cola. Zesty acidity frames this wine nicely, dusty tannins, a crunchy, bright feel with cranberries, wild raspberries. Notes of rhubarb, white pepper, dusty earth and pickling spices add this spicy, earthy complexity. Fun and fresh but shows complex elements and a lot of personality for this price. For those looking for a brighter, leaner, spicier style without spending a lot. Aged 11 months in 20% new French oak. (88 points)
2018 Siduri Pinot Noir ­ USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $30
Light ruby color. Nose shows jammy raspberries, juicy black cherries, with cola, roses, and sage notes. Full-bodied on the palate with chewy tannins and moderate acidity, a ripe but lively feel. Dark cherries, super ripe plums, raspberry jam fruit, which is laced well with notes of tobacco, mint, earth and leaves. Touches of vanilla and cola. Fun and accessible style but it shows some solid depth and complexity for the price. (88 points)
2018 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Medium ruby color. Aromas of juicy black cherries, raspberries, candied apple, with cola, sweet roses and coffee. Full-bodied, smooth but chewy tannins with fresh acidity and a fun, juicy feel with raspberries and black cherry fruit. Notes of cola, coffee, sweet roses and root beer add some complexity. Fun, accessible, early-drinking style. Aged 10 months in 1/3 new French oak. (88 points)
2018 FEL Pinot Noir Anderson Valley ­- USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $38
Deep ruby color. Inviting scents of raspberries, strawberries, fresh and fun, also floral and spicy with rose petals, white pepper, clove and rhubarb. Medium/full-bodied with vibrant acidity and silky, smooth tannins – a bold but balanced wine. Tangy cherries, strawberries and pomegranate fruit mix well with rose petals, rhubarb, portobello mushroom and black tea. Nuanced cola and cranberry relish elements on the finish. A lovely Anderson Valley Pinot (per usual from FEL), at less than $40, this has a lot of personality and depth. Aged 16 months in 38% new French oak. (91 points)
2018 Siduri Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $40
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of crushed cherries, raspberries and wild strawberries with dried rose petals, potpourri, ripe but also airy and enticing aromas. Full but fresh on the palate with suave tannins and fresh acidity, a ripe but balanced mouthfeel. Raspberries, cherry preserves and dark plum fruit blend well with coconut, roasted chestnut and cola, but also these earthy, oregano and bay leaf vibes. Quite a lot going on here for the price. (89 points)
2018 Root & Rubble Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $40Medium ruby color. Bright and fresh aromas of wild raspberries and strawberries, some spice pepper, rose hips and tobacco. Medium-bodied, silky tannins, this has a fresh, crunchy, pretty feel. Vibrant red fruits (raspberries and strawberries) mix well with floral and herb tones (rose petals, clove, bay leaf) with some clay and earth undertones. Vibrant, accessible, yet complex, too. Fermented and aged in concrete, a process I’m a big fan of. It gives this wine airy, lifted aromas and keeps away the coffee and vanilla that would make this wine taste just like 100 other California Pinot Noirs. From winemaker and Siduri founder Adam Lee, this is well-done, exciting stuff for a great price. (90 points)
2016 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $52
Medium ruby color. So vibrant on the nose with chilled black cherries, cranberries, wild raspberries, with some musky, peppery, leathery tones, accents of red flowers. Medium-bodied, crisp acidity, fleshy but zesty with dusty, fine tannins. Crunchy cherries, wild raspberries and cranberry fruit, topped in beautiful dusty earth, clay, dried leaves, tobacco and mint. Pure, vibrant, refined, this is lovely and zippy deliciousness. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)
2017 River Road Pinot Noir Stephanie’s Cuvée – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $30
Deep ruby color. Aromas show juicy raspberries and tangy strawberries with rose petals, sweet coffee, clove and black tea. Medium/full-bodied with a chewy texture, medium acidity, and plump black cherry fruit, some raspberry jam, too. Notes of cola, toasted nuts and herbal tea add some complexity. Ripe and round but shows brightness, too. Aged in 20% new French oak. (87 points)
2017 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Dijon Clones Hallberg Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $60
Medium ruby color. Really bright aromas of raspberry, strawberries, red currants, with spicy, floral complexities like rose hips, rhubarb, white pepper. On the palate, this is crisp and bright on a medium-bodied frame with medium, dusty tannins. The fruit (strawberries and red cherries) is tangy and vibrant, with rose hips, rhubarb, bay leaf, hops, all sorts of complex, spicy elements that keeps this wine intriguing. Pretty and complex, this exquisite Pinot will get even better in the next five or six years. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (93 points)