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Monday, May 24, 2021

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

It’s been a very long time since I’ve traveled internationally, and with no plans for the future, I’m assuaging my travel lust this week with a mix of wines from all over the world.

I have some solid French wines in this report, including a diverse group of wines from the Languedoc region, some summer-friendly pink wines, and a delightful Chateauneuf. There are a few interesting wines from Germany (including a stellar Riesling), and some value from Portugal as well. Some crushable yet complex New Zealand reds make quite an impression, too.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Domaine De Cala Côteaux Varois RoséFrance, Provence, Côteaux Varois
SRP: $20
Aromas of lemon, lime and guava, topped in sliced cucumber, chalk, hay and verbena. Light and zippy on the palate with crunchy, steely vibes, and flavors of grapefruit, orange peel and limes. Notes of white flowers, sea salt and celery seed add some complexity. Fresh, fun, springy-summery, salad-friendly rose. Grenache, Cinsault, Rolle and Syrah. (88 points)

2019 Domaine Montrose Côtes de Thongue RoséFrance, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Côtes de Thongue
SRP : $15
Pale salmon color. Aromas of peaches and lemons, along with spiced white tea, shaved ginger and chalk tones. Zippy and tart on the palate with strawberry and wild raspberry. Spicy tones of pepper, mint and basil add some complexity. A tangy, fun rose. (86 points)

N.V. Michèle Capdepon Blanquette de Limoux BrutFrance, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Blanquette de Limoux
SRP: $19
Rich yellow color. A nice bready nose with salted cashews, honey, chalk, flowers, over top of yellow apples and orange peels. Crisp and focused on this medium-bodied wine, moderate acidity, some pleasant, light toastiness and creaminess. Rich texture, moderate depth, with yellow apple fruit topped in almond, graham cracker, honeycomb. Quite focused, food-friendly, a solid value sparkler that outperforms a lot of other sin this price range. Mauzac and Chardonnay. (88 points)

2017 Clos Fantine FaugèresFrance, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
SRP : $25
Lovely spice and pepper on the nose with meaty, leathery, paprika-laced tones, over top of red and black cherries and currants. The acidity is really refreshing on the palate, with dusty tannins, medium-bodied, with juicy black cherries and plums. Complex notes of pepper, beef drippings, campfire, with violets and clove. There’s a stony and mineral presence as well. Great now, but decant it or cellar it for a few years. Aged 18 months in concrete. (89 points)

2018 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des BoisFrance, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
SRP: $112
Medium purple color. A dark core of black cherries and roasted figs on the nose, with smoky, minty, charcoal, anise tones, grilled meats. Full-bodied, chewy tannins, medium/low acidity but enough to keep it together. Juicy black cherries and roasted plums, along with cocoa, menthol, dark chocolate, pepper, lamb hide – a lot going on here. Red and black licorice flavors, too. This is concentrated and young, one for the cellar for sure, but this opens up nicely, especially on day two. Should be great in six or seven years. Grenache with Mourvedre, Syrah and Vaccarese, aged 10 months in stainless steel and 20% oak. (93 points)

2018 Weingut Josef Leitz Rosé Pinot Noir TrockenGermany, Rheingau
SRP: $17
Beautiful salmon color. Aromas of red apple peel and wild raspberry, fresh and floral with honey pot tones. Pure and vibrant on the palate, with a salty, mineral, talc-laden feel. Crisp and cool with raspberry, white cherries, lots of honey and floral complexities. Absolutely delicious, springy, versatile rose. 6.8 g/l residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling SpätleseGermany, Nahe
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Beautiful aromas of rushing mountain streams, chalk, sea shells, over banana, lime and white peach, tones of white flowers and green herbs. Plump fruit on the palate with white peach, papaya, drizzled with lime, met with racy acidity and balanced sugar – pristine and focused feel. Lemon drops and white peach topped in shells, minerals, ginger, peanut shell and white flowers. Crystalline in its focus, delightful and refined. Aging well with many, many years ahead. (95 points)

2020 Giunta Malbec NouveauNew Zealand, North Island, Hawke’s Bay
SRP: $19
Deep purple color. Juicy and fresh on the nose, very Beaujolais-esque, with cherries and red plums, along with some cola, violets, floral potpourri. Fresh and delightful feel on the palate, with light tannins and crisp acidity, gushing with cherries and wild raspberries. Floral and perfumed with some slight clay, loam and tobacco tones for complexity. This has a good amount of balance, freshness and mouthfeel – a fresh, fun, semi-carbonic Malbec that should be a big hit with a lot of different palates. (88 points)

2016 Decibel Pinot Noir Single VineyardNew Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough
SRP: $35
Light ruby color. Lovely spice tones life the aromas, with black pepper, red pepper flakes, beef jerky, over top of tangy raspberries and wild cherries. Zippy on the palate, pleasantly dusty-light tannins, and the fruit is refreshing and tangy (raspberries, spiced cranberry sauce, black cherries). Notes of black pepper and smoked meats, pepperoni, rose petals, I really like these elements and the racy, vibrant feel, here. A Pinot for those tired of baked fruits and high alcohol. Aged 10 months in 10% new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Dow Douro Vale do BomfimPortugal, Douro
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Smells of plums and blackberries, deep and ripe, with smoky earth, pencil lead, violets and coffee grounds. Medium/full-bodied with a pleasantly chewy texture and medium acidity. Chunks of plums and juicy blackberries, laced with cocoa, cedar, iron and earth. Straightforward but balanced, ripe but nuanced. A blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and others. Great introduction to Douro dry reds at a very attractive price point. (87 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 10-Year-Old TawnyPortugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $39
Deep tawny color. Pretty, expressive nose of dates, figs, caramel and toasted nuts, that classic warm, inviting aromatic display. On the palate this is full but shows moderating acidity, and chunks of glazed pear, dried pineapple, baked apples. Notes of cinnamon crumb cake, candied pecans and some salted almond add complexity. This is warm, inviting, delicious, and a great introduction to Tawny ports, but enough complexity to keep any tawny-lover intrigued. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.


Wednesday, May 12, 2021

Oregon's Troon Continues to Impress

I’ve had the pleasure of following Oregon’s Troon Vineyard since 2017, when I first tasted their wines. Since then, the hits just keep coming.

Troon is a biodynamic producer from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, an area in the south of the state that boast diverse geology, warm days, cool nights, and some exciting wineries. Troon, in my opinion, of course, has been consistently slinging out focused, unique wines from a large mix of grape varieties. Over the years, they’ve experimented with different styles, blends, adding things like Pet-Nat and Piquette to the mix, but also focusing on deep, juicy reds made from grapes like Tannat.

I recently tasted four of their releases from 2020, and I’m excited to share them. These wines sport new labels this year, tastefully designed and incorporating images of their biodynamic preparations. (I only point this out because, well, like record album artwork, I think labels matter — and this aesthetic is really working.)

Their Kubli Bench line is composed of really interesting blends, two of which are featured in this week’s report. There’s a delicious Vermentino (definitely a specialty of the winery) and a new, Beaujolais-inspired Grenache that is perfect for warmer weather.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Troon Vineyard VermentinoUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Such a fresh, inviting, floral, airy wine, like a spring field of all sorts of flowers, with white tea over top of generous peach and zesty lime. Punchy texture, vibrant acidity, this is a zesty and focused wine with yellow plums, white peach and cantaloupe fruit, drizzled with lime. The honey, clean laundry and floral perfume tones add complexity. Texturally, the depth of this wine is fantastic, too. Fermented in old French oak, aged on the lees for five months. (91 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench RoséUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale, pale pink color. So fresh and bright on the nose, like a spring field of buttercups, dandelion and clover over top of McIntosh apple, white cherry and peach skin, with some chalk and basil tones, too. Gorgeous texture on the palate, has nice richness but is really zesty and focused at the same time. Peaches, white cherries and honeydew melon fruit blend with perfume, chalky, crusty sea salt tones. Notes of clover, honey, minerals and shells add all sorts of complexity. Exciting, deep but also gluggable as can be. Really well done blend of Primitivo and Tinta Roriz. Fermented in old French oak, 11.7% alcohol. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench AmberUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Gorgeous honey, light orange color. Bright aromas that just pop: limes, lemon and kumquat, followed up by clover, candied lemon, sea salt, this is just a spritzy, fun-smelling wine. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, and the texture is really fascinating, waxy but never heavy, and the balance is lovely. Chunks of lemon, pineapple and green melon fruit bounce off these flinty, mineral, chalky elements, and there’s some white tea and hints of tobacco as well. Just a lot to unpack. Don’t worry, this is not a feral orange wine, but a pretty, focused and fresh blend of Riesling, Vermentino and Viognier that spends three weeks on the skins. Well, done, Troon! (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou Cowhorn VineyardUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Juicy and inviting on the nose with strawberries and fresh plums, roses, red licorice – just a ton of fun to sniff. Zesty acidity and light tannins frame the wine nicely, and the raspberry and strawberry fruit is bright and delicious. Notes of rose petals, wildflowers, and mild spicy tones add some complexity, too. Stainless steel, carbonic maceration, this is crushable but complex, easy-drinking but sporting impressive depth as well. This is Troon’s first take on this wine, and I look forward to what they’re going to do with it in the future. (90 points)

Thursday, May 6, 2021

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

I’m back this week with a wide-ranging mix of Italian wines. Aside from a few Piedmont wines, most of the wines in this week’s report hail from Tuscany. All these Tuscan samples are red, and they show the diversity in styles, prices and wines from this heralded region. From bargain-priced bottles for pizza and patios, to a high-end Merlot that could be a great Right Bank ringer in a blind tasting, there’s hopefully something for everyone in here.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Moscato d'Asti “La Serra” - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. A really floral nose with white flowers, perfume, along with peaches, lemon and kiwi fruit, with some sea salt tones. Juicy texture with medium/low acidity and ripe flavors of white peaches, melon and pear butter. Notes of honey, white flowers and some chalk dust add complexity. Fun, accessible stuff but has significant complexity as well. (88 points)

2017 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo “Perbacco” - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
SRP: $28
Medium ruby color. Aromas of ripe red and black cherries, cranberry jam, along with smoky earth, rhubarb, mushrooms and rose petals. Forward and fresh with high acidity and dusty tannins. A crisp appeal with red currants and cherries, laced with smoky, minty, peppery, pickling spice tones. Floral, perfume and vibrant, gets very expressive with air. Accessible but will improve with a few years as well. A whole lot of Nebbiolo goodness for the price. (90 points)

2019 Cultusboni Chianti “Cetamura” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti
SRP: $11
Medium ruby color. Ripe, fresh nose of friendly cherries and plums, along with rose petals and red licorice. Velvety tannins, fresh acidity, a zippy and fun approach to this medium-bodied, lighter-style wine. Juicy red cherries and plums play well off of floral and earth tones, hints of black tea and mint. All Sangiovese aged in stainless steel. The quality for the price on this wine is really nice. (87 points)

2019 Cultusboni Chianti “Colmaia” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti
SRP: $13
Bright ruby color. An interesting nose of spicy herbs and ripe cherries and raspberries, with some red licorice and violet tones. Velvety and inviting, bright acid, some nice structure from the tannins. Tastes authentic and lively, with black cherries and plums. Notes of violets, cola, black tea and green herbs add some complexity. Delicious, food-friendly, versatile stuff. Stainless steel Sangiovese. (88 points)

2018 Cultusboni Chianti Classico “RS” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $16
Deep ruby color. Lovely nose of smoked meats, paprika, rose petals, chestnut, over top of tangy red currants. The acidity is bright and crisp, with dusty, light tannins. Tart cranberry and spicy currants mix with notes of grilled meat, leather, black olives, earth and clay tones. Vibrant, spicy, approachable, this has a whole lot of character for a wine at this price point. Sangiovese aged in oak. (90 points)

2019 Colline San Biagio “Balè” Rosato - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $40
Medium salmon color. Bright and zippy on the nose with wild cherries and lemon zest, over top of cucumber slices, mint and chives. Chunks of orange and pineapple and tangy raspberries on the nose, along with elements of cucumber water, white pepper, some rose tea. Salty, chalky notes underneath, too. Fun, versatile rose. 85% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese. (88 points)

2018 Colline San Biagio “Vigna Toia” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Vibrant red cherries and plums on the nose, with a complex mix of pepper, tar, tobacco, dried violet petals. Full-bodied and ripe on the palate but shows some vibrancy as well. Dusty tannins meet vibrant acidity. The crunchy plums and cherry fruit is lively but deep, laced with complex graphite and stony minerals, some gravelly road, really cool earth tones that are hard to describe but delicious. Peppery, violets and clove as well. Bold, structured, but complex and a screaming value. Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in a mix of stainless steel and French oak. (88 points)

2017 Colline San Biagio “Donna Mingarda” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $60
An inviting nose of warm, mulled cherries and raspberries, with plenty of herbal and spicy tones, like tomato leaf, rose petals, cumin, white pepper – really attractive. Full-bodied with well-built but velvety tannins, showing nice grip but not harsh, moderating acidity. Tart black and red cherries, roasted figs, mixed well with complexities of chewing tobacco, rhubarb, white pepper. Really finishes well with smooth, earthy, floral tones. Needs air but this is lovely. All Sangiovese, aged 12 months in old second- and third-year French oak. (90 points)

2015 Colline San Biagio Carmignano “Sancti Blasii” - Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $80
Deep ruby color. Enticing aromas of smoky, meaty, pepperoni elements, with roses, violets, charcoal, over top of deep plums and tangy red currants. On the palate, this is full and suave with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Tart currants and black cherries, deep but really tangy fruit, and the balance and freshness are lovely. Complexities of tobacco, black pepper, violets, earth. Deep, exciting, needs a long time to show its best, but it’s integrated well already. Decant or age this for five more years. Sangiovese with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot aged 15 months in second-year French oak. (91 points)

2015 Colline San Biagio Carmignano “Quattordicisei” - Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $160
Oh, wow, this smells amazing. Evokes Bordeaux, but it is its own thing entirely. Inviting deep but vibrant red fruits, so much complexity in terms of warm clay, tobacco leaf, black pepper, rose petals, some red pepper and lavender – a lot going on. Full-bodied but so, so smooth. The balance is impeccable with dusty tannins and vibrant, crunchy acidity. Mouthwatering cherry and red currant fruit meets complexities of sandy soil, pencil shavings, mint chewing tobacco, violets. Refined already but a lot time ahead for this beautiful wine. Merlot aged in new French oak for 18 months. (93 points)

2018 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina
SRP $19
Medium ruby color. Nose shows cherries, red plums and pomegranate, along with tobacco leaf, leather, bay leaf, and some sage and violets. Impressive structure but the tannins have rounded edges and there’s nicely balanced acidity. Tangy plum and cherry fruit mixes well with elements of tobacco, loam, violets, with notes of cocoa and pencil shavings. Opens nicely with air and boasts quite a bit of complexity and balance for a sub-$20 wine. (89 points)

2018 Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino
SRP: $23
Aromas of spicy pepper, smoky earth, rose petals and cedar, over top of strawberry and plum fruit. Medium/full-bodied with dusty tannins and bright acidity. The plum and currant fruit blends with an interesting mix of tobacco, sage, pepperoni, anise and dark chocolate. It has this mineral and incense stick element, too – interesting and inviting. A fun, pizza-friendly wine but shows complexity as well. A Sangiovese, Cabernet and Petit Verdot blend that will be fun to drink over the next few years. (89 points)

2018 Aia Vecchia Toscana “Lagone” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $17
A spicy, fresh nose with tart currants, tobacco, leather and mesquite tones. Vibrant acidity, has an accessible, zesty feel with medium-dusty tannins. Black cherries, plums, tangy, fresh fruit, mixed with fun notes of graphite, loamy earth, tobacco, mint, coffee grounds. Some flinty, mineral tones. This has a lot of freshness and complexity for the price. 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2016 Villa Patrizia Montecucco Sangiovese “Istrico” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $15
Aromas of currants and cherries, mixed with cinnamon, tobacco, clove and violets. Structured surprisingly well with moderate acidity and tart black cherry and red currant fruit. Delightfully spicy with tones of clove tobacco, green herbs, pine resin and some coffee tones, too. Integrated and balanced but going well and can continue to age. (87 points)

2015 Tenuta L'Impostino Montecucco Riserva “Viandante” Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. A nice mix on the nose of rose petals, spicy pepper and oregano, with vibrant woodsy tones over bright red fruits. Vibrant acidity and refined tannins, structured and balanced well with tart red currant, raspberries and cherries. Notes of earth, tobacco pipe, gravel, beef broth and spiced tea add complexity, while nuances of coffee and dark chocolate round out the silky finish. Aging well with life ahead. (89 points)