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Sunday, August 27, 2023

Late summer selections from Italy

Of all the wine regions in the world I have yet to visit, Sicily is very high on that list. Yes, Nebbiolo from Piedmont makes those epic, long-aging beauties unlike anywhere else in the world. But Sicily produces what I find to be some of the most interesting and dynamic wines from, well, anywhere. It’s such a diverse area with so many unique sites and local grapes, mixed with ancient and modern winemaking techniques and styles. And I have a few examples this week that offer a great way to dig in and explore the island’s indigenous grape varieties. Famiglia Statella really delivers with their Etna Rosso, and Alessandro di Camporeale produces an exceptional white from the Catarratto grape.

And Duca di Salaparuta has two exciting wines that would be great for late summer outdoor gatherings – a Vermentino and a Grillo.

From Pasqua, I have two nice values in the form of a Puglian Primitivo and a bright Prosecco. And Valdo has a traditional method-fermented Prosecco, and this wine is good enough to convert any Prosecco skeptics.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

And a note to followers of my writing on Terroirist. I’m sad to see that blog shutter after so many years there. But I plan to continue and expand my wine writing and coverage on this blog, along with a lot of other content. Thanks for reading.

2019 Famiglia Statella Etna Rosso “Pignatuni” - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
SRP: $63
Medium ruby color. An elegant, electric nose of black cherries and fresh strawberries, topped with a complex mix of spicy tobacco, black pepper, some roasted herbs, warm clay. It has this sun-roasted goodness, but so fresh as well. The palate is fleshy and juicy with smooth tannins, vibrant acidity, and a delightful sense of balance. The fruit is plush and tangy with red cherries and strawberries, blended well with tones of charcoal, herbs, anise, black pepper, sage, and sun-roasted hillside. Love the mineral essence and earthy presence on the finish. From pre-phylloxera vines that the family calls their Premier Cru. Really elegant, fascinating Nerello Mascalese. (91 points)

2020 Alessandro di Camporeale Catarratto Monreale “Vigna Di Mandranova” - Italy, Sicily, Monreale
SRP: $22
Rich yellow color. The nose shows tangy fruits like key lime, lemon, papaya, all of which is infused with ocean breeze, crushed seashells and rocks. So aromatically energetic with punchy floral notes as well. Racy and vibrant on the palate with a lovely depth of texture, and a fruit salad bowl of ruby red grapefruit, pineapple, lemon slices, quince. There’s a deep stony, mineral presence, with crushed shells and limestone. Taut and energetic, but that creamy depth and fruit really balance it all out and add depth. All Catarratto Extra Lucido, aged on the lees in steel for a year, while some spends a year in French oak tonneaux. A journey to a Sicilian fishing village in a glass. (91 points)

2022 Barone Montalto Pinot Grigio Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $N/A

Pale lemon color. A fresh lemony burst on the nose with ruby red grapefruit and white peaches, the fruit backed up by yellow and white flowers, orange blossom, with some breezy, minty, airy elements. The palate is crisp and punchy with a pleasant texture and lively acidity. White peach and kiwi, drizzled with lime, and the fruit is dusted with flavors of chalk, sea salt, yellow flowers, and there’s this nice minty, salted lime peel kick. Juicy and ripe but nuanced, lots of floral complexity. (89 points)

2022 Duca di Salaparuta Grillo Sicilia “Calanica” - Italy, Sicily, Grillo Sicilia DOC
SRP: $20
Bright yellow with exciting aromas of kiwi, ruby red grapefruit, pineapple, blended with dandelion, mint, some talc and flinty tones. The palate has a lovely creamy texture and bright acidity with flavors of lemon and kiwi fruit, and all sorts of talc and flinty mineral vibes. There’s a lot of sliced cucumber, basil, sea salt, white and yellow flowers, just a bunch of fresh accents that keep this lively and enticing. Lovely Grillo for the dog days of summer. (89 points)

2021 Duca di Salaparuta Vermentino Terre Siciliane “Sentiero del Vento” - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane
SRP: $29
Light yellow color. Aromas of yellow plums and pineapple, with all sorts of orange blossoms, tropical vibes, honeycomb, with some daisies and stony elements. The palate has a delicious mix of yellow plums, pineapple, drizzled in lime, brightened with racy acidity and a precise, balanced feel. Tropical and forward but so much nuance with herbal, saline, mineral, mountain stream tones. There are a lot of floral nuances to parse through here for sure. A delightful interpretation of Vermentino. (91 points)

2019 Valdo Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Numero 10 - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene
SRP: $30

Medium lemon color. The nose shows a delightful mix of tangy green and juicy yellow apples with white peaches, and a ton of yellow flowers, sea salt, some biscuit, honeysuckle. The palate has a surprisingly creamy depth, delightful bubbles, and this racy, brisk acidity – and the balance is quite a thing. Tangy lemons, kiwi, with riper yellow pear and apple fruit, and it blends well with notes of sea salt, crushed limestone, floral perfume, and these deeper, honey and bread crumb vibes. Finishes with these chalky minerals. Serious, deep, complex Prosecco. (91 points)

2021 Pasqua Primitivo Desire Lush & Zin - Italy, Puglia, Puglia IGT
SRP: $18
Light purple color. A nice juicy and jammy aromatic appeal, with black cherries, saucy plums, along with light roast coffee, toffee, and some violets. The palate shows chewy tannins and medium-low acidity with ripe and jammy fruit (cherries, plums, blackberries), and a fun appeal. Some nice complexities of clove, toffee, red licorice, and warm clay add cool nuance. Really nice value for grill-outs, parties, and will please any Zin lover. (88 points)

N.V. Pasqua Prosecco Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pale lemon color. A bright and chalky vibe on the nose with lots of white flowers, sugar cane, along with crunchy green apples, kiwi, some honeysuckle and nettle. The palate shows a fresh and crunchy feel with bright acidity and zesty fruits (kiwi, green apple, yellow pear), along with some crushed sweet tarts, white flowers, mint, and breezy meadow feel. Fun stuff, really solid value. (87 points)

Monday, August 21, 2023

Wine reviews: International grab bag

I’m here this week with a roundup of selections from across the globe, with some wines focused around diversity and value.

I can’t believe it’s been nine years since I spent three weeks in South Africa. Those experiences come back to me in memories all the time, from the wildlife and landscapes, big scary waves, and delightful wines tasted and wineries visited. I’ve kept up with the scene from afar since, and I’ve enjoyed watching a new generation of winemakers making a name for themselves and producing expressive, interesting wines. I think there’s an audience for well-made, diverse South African wines in the U.S. – I count myself among them – so I’m always happy to see what’s going on. This week, I have an update on three different skin contact wines that really deliver.

There are some bold, juicy, grill-friendly but complex reds from Spain in this report as well, all three of which offer solid value. From Tuscany, I have a $15 duo from Carpineto that would be a great summer sipper or a nice choice for a by-the-glass list.

And if you’re looking for value in Bordeaux (not an easy task), the Cru Bourgeois wines fit the bill. These tend to be Merlot-heavy wines and offer a more accessible, but still serious and in-depth take on this classic region. The wines don’t cost a lot and there’s a lot of opportunity to venture out and find different options.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Wednesday, August 9, 2023

Wine Reviews: California new releases

This week I’m back with more California new releases, including some well-known names and new-to-me producers.

Justin’s Paso Robles-based wines are widely available and they have a diverse lineup. I have three of their staples this week that would be great for this late summer, vacation-y time. A Far Niente Cab brings a lot of Napa goodness at a reasonable price, and I also have one of the best bargain California Pinots I’ve found to date in The Pinot Project’s offering.

This is my first dive into Meyye Wines, and I’m already a huge fan. Immediately, I knew something was different with this producer. As a wildlife photographer and bird nerd, the intricate labels embossed with local birds drew me in, and the wines include the names of the birds in the Coast Miwok language. And the wine inside the bottle is just as excellent as I was hoping. Winemaker Rob Campbell — a member of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria (Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo) — launched this project after working with Story Winery in Amador County until 2019, realizing his long-time dream to found a winery honoring his heritage.

“I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it,” Campbell says. “In addition to being ultra-premium wines that taste great, it’s my small way of preserving our language by sharing with native and non-native people alike.” These small production wines are available from the winery’s site, and soon some restaurants, and certainly worth checking out.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Justin Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. A vibrant pop on the nose of gooseberry, white peach, orange peel, along with peach blossom, honey, tropical flowers, and honeysuckle. The palate has a juicy and rich texture with flavors of white peach, honey-glazed pears, drizzled with some lemon juice, a ripe yet balanced appeal. Floral and perfumed with honeysuckle, orchard fruit blossoms galore, along with some celery seed and mint tones. Fun, vibrant, fresh, quite complex and a solid bargain. (88 points)

2022 Justin Vineyards Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $20
The color of ripe watermelon and peach. The palate shows a bright mix of white raspberry, peaches, wild strawberries, with tones of chalk dust, sea salt, some crushed sweet tart and flinty/herbal vibes. The palate sports chunks of pineapple, slices oranges, mango, lime juice, delightful stuff, along with floral, perfumed nuances and tones of white pepper, mint, and celery seed. A base of whole-cluster Syrah, super fun and crowd-pleasing, but complex as well. (90 points)

2020 Justin Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows suave plums and currants, laced with smoky earth and coffee, notes of pepper, roasted red pepper, some roasted chestnut, hints of dark chocolate. Juicy and ripe on the palate with sweet tannins, a pleasantly chewy feel, with moderated acidity. Flavors of juicy plums, raspberry jam, with currant jam, and the fruit is mixed with tones of anise, tobacco, sage, along with coffee, mocha, and anise cookie. Fun and ripe but nuanced and balanced, too. Great grill-out, crowd-pleasing Cab at a reasonable price. Aged 14 months in 25% new American oak. (89 points)

2021 The Pinot Project Pinot Noir - USA, California
SRP: $13
Light ruby color. Ripe and fun on the nose with fresh strawberries, raspberries, some cherry pie, topped in sliced rhubarb, some white pepper, bay leaf, tobacco nuances. Juicy and fresh on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Available nationwide, it’s rare to find a Pinot Noir of this price point that taste this real and expressive. Great bargain Pinot for late summer parties and cookouts. (88 points)

2019 Charles Krug Winery (Peter Mondavi Family) Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $41
Ripe purple color. Aromas of raspberry jam, plum cake, with black cherry sauce, along with toffee, mocha, vanilla, and elements of sweet pipe tobacco, earth, and charcoal. Plush texture, ripe tannins, juicy and accessible feel but vibrant acidity. A saucy appeal with ripe black cherries, plum cake, and black currant jam, and the fruit is blended well with tones of roasted bell pepper, sweet pipe tobacco, vanilla, coffee, and toffee. Juicy and generous, with solid complexity as well and a delightfully fruity appeal. (89 points)

2021 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Post & Beam - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Rich purple color. The aromas have deep but inviting tones of black currants, tangy red and black plums, with complexities of anise, black pepper, sage, tobacco, dried violets, some stony, earthy vibes – lovely. Full and juicy on the palate but really fresh with fine-grained tannins. The fruit is tangy and crunchy with deep black cherries, currant, some fig paste, and it is sprinkled with elements of pencil shavings, menthol, rocky-earthy notes, along with nuances of coffee grounds and cedar. Suave, fresh, has a really delightful mouthfeel, making this a delight to drink young, but will do well in the cellar, too. (92 points)

2020 Meyye Wines Chardonnay “Kuluppis”
 - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $55
Rich yellow color. The nose is juicy and deep with apricot and orange marmalade, some lemon curd, honeyed biscuits, but also it has these breezy, floral vibes, with tropical flowers, daisies, and dandelion. The palate shows pleasant creaminess and ripeness but it is nuanced and shows vibrant acidity, with flavors of pear butter, orange marmalade, and bruised yellow apples. The notes of almond, biscuits, whipped honey, and dried mango are nuanced and delicious, and there’s no overbearing oak. A clear, ripe but vibrant finish with notes of minerals and chalk dust over top of biscuit dough. Delicious stuff from Sangiacomo Vineyard. (91 points)

2019 Meyye Wines Pinot Noir “Omay” - USA, California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. So alive and vibrant on the nose, with the freshest chilled strawberries and raspberries, some cranberry relish, with nuances of rose hips, sage, white pepper, and tobacco. So silky and refined on the palate with dusty tannins and crisp, refreshing acidity. The fruit is pure and delicious (juicy black cherries, tangy strawberries, cranberry relish) laced with tobacco, sage, tilled soil, fallen leaves, clove, white pepper. A ton to unpack here, this is an intricate, refined, and expressive Pinot Noir. Delightful now, but I’d love to cellar it for four or five years. From Sangiacomo and Roberts Road vineyards. (93 points)

2019 Meyye Wines “Sokootok” - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $60
Pretty, deep ruby color. Ooh, the nose is enticing with these black cherries and saucy plums laced with mesquite, smoky charcoal, pepperoni, graphite, roasted red pepper, tobacco, some violets. The palate is rich but balanced with a fleshy feel but nice grip on the tannins and moderate acidity. Flavors of deep black cherries and spicy cranberry jam, and the fruit is blended wonderfully with tones of tobacco, creosote, mesquite, charcoal, roasted red pepper, leather. Delicious now but things will really start to integrate in the next three to six years and those intricate savory tones will really pop. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Counoise, and Zinfandel from Amador County. (92 points)

2015 Meyye Wines Zinfandel “Palachchak” - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant ruby color. The nose is sweet and ripe with crushed raspberries and red cherries, with sliced rhubarb, chewing tobacco, sweet roses, red licorice, some leather – a cool mix. Full and ripe on the palate, refined, integrated tannins with fresh acidity. Big but fresh with juicy raspberry and strawberry fruit, mixed with elements of dusty earth, savory spices, some cola, tobacco, and mint. A lot of fun, and drinking great right now. (90 points)