The Exceptional Alentejo Wines of Susana Esteban

In June, I spent a week digging into the wines and culture of Alentejo, a fascinating and historic winegrowing region of southern Portugal. I visited lots of wineries, tasted tons of really good wine, but if I had to name a favorite, easy: Susana Esteban. 

Most of the wine-growing regions of Alentejo feature sun-roasted rolling hills, cork forests, mixed in with fields of cereals, grazing livestock, and the scattered village or town. Susana Esteban sources her fruit from higher elevation sites in the Portalegre area of Alentejo. This is in the northeast part of Alentenjo, near the Serra de Sao Mamede National Park, which abuts the Spanish border. 

Spanish by birth, Susana has worked as a consulting winemaker in the Douro and Alentejo before starting her own project, Procura, in 2011. The idea, as she explained it to me on a recent trip, was to focus on “small quantity, high quality.” After tasting her wines, I can say with enthusiasm that the quality is indeed very high. 

She tracked down some exceptional fruit for her wines: a hilly site that sits about 700 meters above sea level in granite and schist soils. An old school vineyard, different indigenous Portuguese varieties are inter-planted in a field blend style, and some of the vines are 80 years old. “When I found this vineyard,” she explained during my visit, “I can’t believe it still exists here.”

She sources fruit from other sites for her entry-level Aventura wines (which I found excellent for the price). The grapes for Susana’s wines are hand-harvested, and she ferments her wine in a mix of stainless steel and large, old oak barrels, always aiming, she says, for “freshness.” Susana only produces some 30,000 bottles of wine a year, but the wines are imported into the U.S. by the Spanish Acquisition and Ideal Wine & Spirits. 

If you ever see a wine with her name on it, pay close attention. These are thrilling, dynamic, unique wines that stun for their price. Below are the notes I took on the wines I tasted. 

2017 Susana Esteban Aventura Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$19
Aromas are super peachy and bright but steely, too. Crisp, bright, brisk, mineral-driven on the palate with chalky notes, baby’s breath and green olive notes mixed with the juicy green apple and lemon fruit. Mineral dust note stand out, this shows lovely texture but such freshness. A co-fermented field blend from 30-year-old vineyards in Portalegre, which is at higher elevation, 700 meters. (89 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Gorgeous aromatics of lemon curd, apricot, peaches, with yellow flowers and raw almonds. The textural depth is amazing, brisk acidity, lovely combo with peaches and lemon curd. Complex elements of sea salt, mineral, dusty chalk. Layered, vibrant, complex, deep, yet so refreshing. No lees-stirring, no maloactic fermentation, this is aged in old oak. Fascinating, excellent white field blend from 80-year-old vines. (93 points) 

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Amphora - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Clay sample. This unfinished wine is awesome. Brisk and floral aromas on the nose with apricot and lemon pith. The palate is bright and tangy but shows an earthy, waxy depth with flavors of almond and spiced white tea. Intriguing and delicious. (91 points) 

2017 Susana Esteban Sidecar - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$N/A 
One of the most fascinating white wines of the trip. Pear nectar, guava and flowers on the nose. Crisp acidity on the palate, lovely texture, mineral depth. Complex notes of sea salt, honeycomb, oyster shell, bread crumbs, with apricot and tangerine fruit. Complex, mouthfeel is gorgeous, this is a unique and exciting blend that's aged in huge Alsace-style foudre. I'd love to see how it ages, because it's seriously good stuff. (93 points) 

2015 Susana Esteban Aventura Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$19
Nose shows raspberries and cherry preserves, violets and spiced tea, chestnut and pope tobacco. Freshness on this wine is key, dusty, fine tannins and lively acidity. Raspberries, black cherries, plums, the fruit mixes with smoky, earthy, tobacco elements. Delicious, approachable but serious juice. A blend of Aragones, Touriga Nacional and other varieties, all stainless steel. (88 points) 

2013 Susana Esteban Procura Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Concentrated aromas of black cherries, currant compote, warm clay, espresso, dark earth. Bold and concentrated on the palate with some strong tannins, yet an underlying freshness keeps it bright. Deep blackberry and currant fruit, mixed with complex elements of black tea, anise, black pepper, scorched earth. Lots of depth here, and aging potential. Alicante Bouschet-based blend, aged 16 months in French oak, 30% new. (91 points) 

2016 Susana Esteban Castelão Sem Vergonha - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$33
Waves of bright red fruit on the nose, cranberry, currants, along with black cherries, rose petals, some roasted herbs. Lighter style, this has an inviting smoothness and fresh acidity with solid tannic structure, but nothing here is harsh. Cranberry, black cherries, mixed with rose potpourri and some tobacco notes. 100% Castelão, aged 12 months in old French oak barrels, 13.1% alcohol. Susana made this wine as a challenge with Dirk Niepoort to make a "Burgundian" wine, and I think she nailed it. (91 points)