Hickinbothom's Clarendon Vineyard is Producing Killer Aussie Reds

Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard is the Australian jewel in the crown of California’s Jackson Family Wines. Purchased in 2012, the winemaking is a coordinated effort between Chris Carpenter (of Napa Cab fame) and distinguished Australian winemaker Charlie Seppelt. 

The site, which sits above the Onkaparinga River, has a long history, as vines were first planted in this area in the mid-1800s. Alan Hickinbotham established the company in 1971, planting dry-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz on these McLaren Vale slopes.

I recently received four 2015 reds from Hickinbothom, and was impressed yet again with these wines. Sure, they are packed with rich, dark fruit, but they show so much more than that. Depth, complexity, aging potential, vibrant acidity, complex non-fruit elements, these are fascinating wines that, I think, deserve serious respect. The Peake Cabernet was one of the most penetratingly beautiful Aussie wines I’ve tasted in quite a while.

I received these wines as samples and tasted them single blind.

2015 Hickinbotham Merlot The Revivalist - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Nose shows tart but deep fruit (blueberry, dark plum, roasted fig) along with waves of eucalyptus, mint and earthy-tobacco notes. Full and structured with a chewy feel but underlying acidity keeps it fresh. Blackberry, tart blueberry, gushing fruit but so pure and vibrant. Notes of dusty earth, minerals, violets, eucalyptus and mint, with vanilla and coffee woven in well, and some sweet pipe tobacco on the finish. I’d love to bury a bottle of this for 6-10 years, the quality is that high, but it’s also delicious young. All Merlot. (92 points)

2015 Hickinbotham Shiraz Brooks Road - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Bold purple color. On the nose: tart black currants, roasted fig, saucy blackberries, violets, eucalyptus, black pepper glaze, and some vanilla. Full-bodied with solid tannins for structure (but not harsh) and mildly fresh acidity. Blackberry, blueberry and cassis, the fruit is suave and delicious and loaded with violets, cocoa, black pepper, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, earthy and tar tones. Great stuff, but this needs a solid decant or, preferably, a few years of sleep. All Shiraz. (92 points)

2015 Hickinbotham Cabernet Sauvignon Trueman - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Deep and gorgeous nose of rich plums and black currants, but the fruit is laced with complex notes of tobacco leaf, cigar shop, mint, bay leaf, leather, some cocoa and vanilla. Full-bodied with solid tannins, moderating acidity keeps it lively, and the fruit comes in waves: tart black currants, black cherry, chilled plums. Complex and earthy with notes of loam, roasted herb, spearmint chewing tobacco, notes of cedar and vanilla and mixed in but not dominant. Long life ahead here, but this is gorgeous stuff. (94 points)

2015 Hickinbotham The Peake - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $150
Light purple color. Wow, the aromas are fantastic: black cherries, currants, blackberries, loaded with fruit but elegant, too, and backed up with black pepper, bell pepper, iron, chewing tobacco, graphite and dark chocolate. So rich, structured well with serious tannic grip, but the wine maintains an effortless and velvety feel. Rich, plush, bold but not too dense, with roasted plums, currant paste, blackberries, the fruit is yummy but nuanced. Cocoa, graphite, loam, charcoal, grilled herbs and coffee, lots of complex elements here. Beautiful young but burying this wine for a decade and forgetting about it would be a solid move. This blend of 56% Cabernet and 44% Shiraz is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, planted in 1971. (96 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New, Exciting U.S. Imports from South Africa

If you’ve been a regular reader over the years, you may have heard me rant about South African wines. I love them. After a three-week pilgrimage there in 2014, my love for this country’s wines grew exponentially, as I realized how many exceptional wines were out there. The problem? Most were made in small amounts and weren’t available in the U.S.

Things have changed a bit since then, as more small importers are focusing on bringing high-quality South African wines to the U.S., many of which boast very attractive price points. One such group, New Jersey-based Vine Street Imports, sent me some wines from two South African producers that seem primed for the U.S. market.

Jurgen Gouws kicked off Intellego Wines in 2009. Although he doesn’t own any vineyards, or a cellar of his own, his passion for vibrant, nuanced wines is evident in the glass. He works with growers in Swartland to source fruit, and has a special love for the region’s older bush vines.

Francois Haasbroek is the man behind Blackwater Wine, which became his full-time focus in 2012. After studying at Stellenbosch University, and working stints in California and New Zealand, he was hired as winemaker at Stellenbosch’s Waterford Wine Estate, where he worked for nine years. Now with his own project, Francois sources grapes from all over South Africa’s Western Cape and focuses on natural acidity and steer away from density and new oak.

Both producers seem (to me), to be the kind of wines I want to see more of in the U.S., so I was excited to receive these samples, which I tasted sighted. My notes are below.

2016 Blackwater Sauvignon Blanc High Roller - South Africa, Coastal Region, Darling
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Bursting aromatics of apricots, limes, nettle, chalk, cut flower stems. Fresh and fun on the palate, a crisp, salty, oyster-friendly appeal but shows a lot of spicy complexity. Apricots, limes, orange pith, mixed with baby’s breath, honeysuckle and some sea salt. Don’t let the cutesy label fool you, this is very pretty South African Sauv. Blanc. (88 points)

2016 Intellego Chenin Blanc - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. Whoa! Aromas pop: apricots, yellow apples, limes, lots of saline, honeycomb, white tea. So vibrant on the palate with rich textural depth combining well with a crisp, salty appeal. Flavors of yellow plums, apricots, drizzled with lime. The complexity is impressive, with notes of honeyed tea, sea salt, crushed shells and wild flowers. This is fascinating, deep, delicious, a great reminder of how good South African Chenin Blanc can be for the money. The grapes are sourced from 30- to 40-year-old vines. (91 points)

2018 Blackwater Lazy Lucy Rosé - South Africa, Coastal Region, Paarl
SRP: $15
Light watermelon color. On the nose I get bright strawberries, white cherries, crushed sweet tart candies, white pepper – cool combo! Light and brisk style, lean and crunchy feel to it but plenty of flavor (white cherries, watermelon, honeydew). Notes of white pepper and clove. Fresh and tasty but some solid complexity for this price, I could see this getting a lot of love from a thirsty crowd. 56% Cinsault, 44% Syrah. (88 points)

2016 Intellego Kedungu - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $26
Light purple color. OK, so this wine is a wee bit different, for sure! Aromatically, I get wild strawberries, smoked meat, and a funky, spicy, sour mix that reminds me of a sour framboise. Tart on the palate with light tannins, this is super tangy and tart wine (only 11% alcohol) with raspberries and sour cherries. A complex mix if interesting non-fruit elements (black pepper, roasted lamb, leather). Weird but it’s also tasty. If you’re in a funky, adventurous mood, try out this blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre. (87 points)

2017 Blackwater Grenache Daniel - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
SRP: $29
Bright ruby color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and loads of non-fruit spicy, herbal, beefy notes (roses, black pepper, soy, leather, tobacco, anise and beef drippings. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with surprising acidity, some light-dusty tannins, and black cherries and raspberry fruit. Tossed together with black pepper, soy sauce, bacon fat and some rose potpourri. Spicy but not too crazy, it stays fresh and lively as well. Delish. All Grenache from a single vineyard in Botrivier, 40% whole cluster fermentation, aged six months in old French oak. (90 points)

2015 Blackwater Wine Syrah Noir - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $25
Deep ruby/light purple color. Aromas of black cherries, red and black currants, lots of leather, black pepper, barbecue smoke, beef broth. Medium+ bodied with moderate acidity that helps keep the wine fresh, medium tannins. Spicy black cherries, currants and plums, scorched earth, beef broth, leather, clove. Complex but lots of fun, with a fresh, spicy, barbecue-friendly appeal. Includes a bit of Grenache and Carignan, aged 27 months in old French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Delicious, Meaty Mourvedre from California

I don't think I pay enough attention to the Mourvedre grape. I do love me some reds and pink wines from Bandol, the Mourvedre grape's ancestral stomping grounds. But there's so much more out there to explore.
California is home to some excellent Mourvedre, when planted in the right spots and crafted by the right winemakers. While used as a blending grape (usually with Grenache, Syrah or other red Rhone varieties), several winemakers are producing varietal Mourvedres that recently reminded me of the heights this grape can achieve.

Dirty & Rowdy have been making waves for a long time now, and justifiably so. I recently tasted two of their Mourvedres, and a Mourvedre-based blend, that blew me away with their freshness, spiciness, and unique flavor profiles. Add in a wonderful Mourvedre from Sonoma-based Two Shepherds, and a Bandol, and you've got yourself a fun afternoon.

I tasted these wines with good friends and lots of friend chicken. The chicken was salty, spicy and moist, and actually worked really well, especially with the leaner Mourvedre style of these California wines. My notes below...


2014 Two Shepherds Mourvedre - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado

Aromas of fresh raspberries, cherries, red apples, spicy pepper and roses. So brisk and bright on the palate, but structure from the tannins, refreshing, crisp red fruits. I love to roses, white pepper and bay leaf elements. Gorgeous. (92 points)

2016 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvedre Old Vine Enz Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Lime Kiln Valley
Nose of spices and roses but some pomegranate and black cherries. Fresh, lively, tangy with dusty tannins, raspberries and pepper. Lots of fun but deep, complex, with earthy, savory and floral complexities that will come out more with time. (91 points) 

2016 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvedre Shake Ridge Ranch - California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Aromas of black pepper, roses, potpourri on top of raspberries, red apples. Crisp and bright acidity but structured so well. Cherries, spicy currants, raspberries, spicy black pepper, earthy notes, deep floral tones. This was decanted for hours and it felt airy and floral, but still structured for a solid sleep in the cellar. (92 points)

2016 Dirty and Rowdy MSG Chalone - California, Central Coast, Chalone
Really cool aromatic display of black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce, roses, black pepper. Bold tannins but crisp acidity. Crunchy black cherries, pomegranate, lots of baking spices and dark, earthy, charcoal notes but also airy, lifted notes. Complex minerals underneath. Really pretty, I’d love to crack open another in three to five years. Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache. (93 points) 

2014 La Bastide Blanche Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol
So smoky and beefy on the nose (definitely some brett, but it’s not overwhelming), with black cherries, roasted red peppers. Super grippy on the palate, this was by far the heaviest wine of the night (as expected), and really needs more time. Medium acidity keeps it lively. Lots of smoky, roasted herbs, earth, violets, charcoal. Massive, young but yummy. (90 points)

International Grab Bag: New Releases Under $30

This week, I’ve got a round-up of recent samples from all over, all of which cost less than $30.

William Fèvre, known for ethereal Premier and Grand Cru Chablis, has an entry-level new release that offers a bit of everything I look for in a Chablis, and it’s a really solid buy at $25.

M. Chapoutier’s Domaine de Bila-Haut brand, always reliably good for the money, delivers again with their L'Esquerda red blend, a serious wine that brings a lot of complexity and aging potential.

Included in this report are a handful of wines from all over Italy (Veneto, Tuscany, Piedmont), all of which cost $30 or less.

Lastly, I tasted two whites and a pink from the Spanish region of Cariñena, all of which cost less than $15. It’s still summer, and these three wines pack a whole lot of goodness for their price points. Oh, and a “Game of Thrones” branded Pinot Noir, because… well…

All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux SEA Limited Edition - France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromas of white peaches, lemons, honeysuckle and seashells. Medium-bodied on the palate with a brisk and fresh appeal and plenty of acidity. Lemon curd and orange peel mix nicely with saline, seashells and ocean spray notes, with some dusty minerals that linger onto the finish. A lot of depth for an entry-level Chablis at this price point. (89 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Domaine de Bila-Haut L'Esquerda - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Dark and saucy black currants, juicy black cherries, along with complex elements roasted herbs, cracked black pepper, leather, cocoa. Plump and juicy with medium tannins and medium-low acidity. Black cherries, black currants, roasted fig, the fruit mixes with spicy black pepper, sage, grilled rosemary, with deeper notes of dark chocolate, espresso, vanilla and scorches earth. Put together so well, this should age nicely, too, but ready to go now. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from a single vineyard, 40- to 60-year-old vines. (90 points)

N.V. La Marca Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Luminore - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Congliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
SRP: $25
Bursting nose of fresh lemons and limes, dusty chalk, notes of dandelion and baby’s breath. On the palate this is crisp and quite dry, light-bodied but texturally interesting. Lemon-lime, some melon peel, with notes of white flowers, cut flower stems, chalk dusty. Fresh and bright and a lot of fun. A step-up Prosecco that is not to be dismissed. (88 points)

2016 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $20
Rich yellow color. Aromas of bruised yellow apples, creamy peach, with honeybutter, some nutty-salty notes. Plump texture on the palate with bright acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Apples and peaches play well off of floral perfume, whipped butter, notes of salt and almond. A bit lacking on the finish, but fun and tasty stuff. 85 Garganega and 15% Trebbiao. (86 points)

2016 Jermann Vinnaioli Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Steely and salty aromas with grapefruit, green apples, honeysuckle and dandelion. Brisk and fresh, light and breezy, but some interesting creamy texture and minerality. Yellow and green apples mixed with floral perfume, magnolia flowers and honeysuckle. Fresh and fun, but it has a lot more skill and punching power than many Pinot Grigios from this region. Sourced from two vineyards in Collio. (90 points)

2015 Argiano Non Confunditur Toscana - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $23
Bright ruby color. Nose shows tart raspberries, red currant jam, spicy strawberries, with notes of tobacco leaf, rose petal and spicy pepper. On the palate, this is a medium/full-bodied wine with quite smooth tannins and moderate acidity. Flavors of tart red currant and raspberry mix with black pepper, spicy tobacco and scorched earth. Simple, fun, pleasant. Cabernet, Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. (87 points)

2017 Rocca di Montemassi Renaissance Rosé - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $17
Very pale copper color. Smells of white cherries, watermelon, along with thistle, baby’s breath, a wild green herb and honeysuckle component that I find interesting, too. Medium-bodied, fresh and zippy but a pleasant plumpness on the palate, too. White cherries and wild strawberries mix with bright white flowers, wild green herbs and a spicy herbal tea note. Fresh, inviting, but showing complexity, too. A blend of Sangiovese and Syrah from Maremma. (88 points)

2014 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $23
Rich purple color. I get aromas of roasted figs and plum sauce, with violets, vanilla and coffee grounds. Rich and plush on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Flavors of roasted fig, black currant jam, topped in anise, espresso, black pepper and tobacco. Full, warm and rich, but also tangy. A blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese, this is a solid value for this style and price. (88 points)  

2016 Renato Ratti Barbera d'Alba Battaglione - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba
SRP: $20
Rich purple color. Smoky aromas of charcoal, anise and graphite on top of generous black cherries and dark plums. Fresh and fleshy on the palate, fun stuff with medium acidity and plush tannins, but this shows a bit of complexity too. Black cherries, tart and crunchy red currants and plums mix with anise, violets, smoky tobacco, cinnamon. Fun and easy-drinking but not simple, this opens up nicely with some air. (88 points)

2016 Seven Kingdoms Wines Pinot Noir Game of Thrones - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $20
Pretty, deep ruby color. Aromas of strawberries, bright cherries, cola, some chai tea and cedar. Juicy and full with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Cherries and red currant jam flaors mix with some sweet tobacco and cedar. Big and boastful but shows some balance as well. A fun Pinot for early drinking. (86 points)

2016 Bodegas Virgen del Águila Agoston Viura & Chardonnay - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $9
Very pale color. Steel and bright on the nose with white flowers, lime pit, lemon wedges and sea salt. Zesty and bright on the palate on an easy-drinking frame with flavors of lemon-lime and green apple. Floral perfume, cucumber, white pepper flavors. Simple, fresh, fun summer sipper. (85 points)

2017 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos Corona de Aragón Garnacha Blanca - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $9
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, limes, oranges and lychee, topped with sea salt and honeysuckle. Precise and fresh on the palate with fun stony-salty qualities. Lemon, white peach and oranges mixed with floral perfume and a steel, zesty appeal. Lots of fun, showing some good complexity at this price point. (87 points)

2016 Bodegas San Valero Garnacha Rosado Origium - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $15
Almost neon cherry color in the glass. Loving the spicy aromatics of green herbs, white pepper, nettle, on top of watermelon, red cherries and pomegranate. Bright and crisp but super fruit, as the watermelon, raspberry and pomegranate fruit offer a lot to love. Stays fresh, with lots of spicy elements like herbal tea, nettle, rose hips. Delicious, fun, lots going on for the price. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Inexpensive but Expressive Burgundies from Domaine Collotte

Phillipe Collotte. Credit: Weygandt Wines

I love Burgundian wines, but I’m not a wealthy man. I’ve never tasted a bottle of Romanée-Conti and, considering I’m not burying thousands of dollars away for this purpose, likely never will.

And while a lot of Burgundy’s greatest wines will remain out of my reach, there are still plenty of wines from Burgundy that are of high quality, but don’t cost a fortune. Some, like the wines of Domaine Collotte, can be found for $20-$35.

Phillipe Collotte sources grapes from various parcels in the Côte de Nuits, most of which come from old vines, ranging from 30 years to 60-years-old. With low yield vineyards, indigenous yeast fermentation, the wines show concentration, expressiveness and deliciousness, and they still cost about $30. 

Peter Weygandt has been importing these wines since 2006, and I’ve had the chance to taste a lot of them over the years. Without exception, I’ve found them to be solid examples of inexpensive Burgundy. I recently tasted through some new releases from Collotte at Weygandt Wines, and, again, I found a lot of wine for the money. 

My notes below…

2016 Domaine Collotte Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
$23
Super salty and bright with a zesty, lemon/green apple appeal. Refreshing and bright. (87 points)

2015 Domaine Collotte Fixin Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
$37
Ooh, this is a rich and plump Chardonnay with yellow apples, bruised pear, honey, almond. Some underlying mineral and floral notes too. Round and delicious. (89 points) 

2017 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rosé - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay Rosé
$20
Bright and spicy on the nose with raspberries and wild cherries, along with nettle and wild green herbs. Spicy and brisk on the palate with tart strawberries and pleasant white pepper and herbal tea notes. Vibrant and delicious. (88 points)

2016 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
$25
Nose shows bright red cherries and some tobacco. Brisk acidity, dusty tannins, juicy red cherries with notes of earth and leather. Delicious now but could improve for a few years easily. (88 points)

2015 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Les Champsalomon - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
$32
A lot more depth than the VV. Richer cherries and red plums, earth and anise. Smooth and velvety with juicy cherries and complex savory and earth elements. Very nice. (90 points) 

2014 Domaine Collotte Fixin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
$25
This is complex and savory on the nose, lots of earth and leather and pepper on top of mulled cherries. Smooth but structured, bright acid, cherries and plums topped in leather, mushroom, campfire smoke and some pepper. Drinking very nicely right now, probably not much aging potential here, but very nice for the price. (89 points)

HLR Cellars: Exceptional Sonoma Reds

HLR Cellars, above the fog line in Sonoma County. Credit: HLR Cellars.

On the border between Napa and Sonoma Counties, about a mile from Diamond Mountain, sits a lesser-known appellation: the Fountaingrove District. This area of Sonoma (which achieved AVA status in 2015) is where H.L.R. Cellars calls home. 

Started in 2012 by Steve and Joan Heller, H.L.R. Cellars grows Bordeaux varieties in their estate vineyards, which are planted at about 1,300 feet in elevation.

I had never heard of this producer before, but I’m always on the look for new (to me) producers from Sonoma and Napa, so I was excited to uncork these samples and give them a whirl. I lined up the wines (a Cab, a Malbec, a Merlot, and two red blends) and single-blind tasted them. As I was typing up my notes, I did a double-take when I was looking at the prices. All of the wines clock in at $45 or less, and they bring a ton of deliciousness, structure and excitement at that price point. That’s not easy to find.

My notes below.

2015 HLR Cellars Hella•Nora - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39 Light purple color. Nose of roasted figs, plums, currant paste along with cocoa, vanilla and sweet espresso. Full and suave on the palate, chewy, fleshy, tangy, a nice combination. Tart black currant and roasted figs with expresso, cocoa, cedar and vanilla, hints of earthy-clove and tobacco. Plush and rich but stays lively, too. Yum. 40% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Hella•licious - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39

Light purple color. Spicy nose of pepper and wild herbs on top of rich black and red currant fruit, notes of earth, smoke and cedar. Full-bodied but lovely freshness from the acidity, and the tannins provide some structure but remain smooth around the edges. Tangy red and black currant fruit with smoky herbs, black pepper, along with sweet cocoa, vanilla and coffee grounds. Absolutely delicious, but it has complexity and vibrancy going for it as well. Cabernet Sauvignon with 27% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Merlot - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39
Rich purple color. Bold but tangy fruit (red and black currants) with eucalyptus, mint, cocoa and sweet herbs. Full and suave on the palate, tangy acid over velvety tannins, and tart red currant mixes with saucy black cherry. Notes of eucalyptus, charcoal and mint chocolate chip, this has earthy-savory tones too. So vibrant on the finish. Aged 24 months in 44% new French and American oak. (91 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Malbec - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $45
Rich purple. Nose shows tart black cherries, plums and boysenberry with mint, vanilla, violets and cedar. Full and big with chewy tannins but moderating acidity as well. Plums, roasted figs, boysenberry, waves of juicy dark fruit, backed up with violets, eucalyptus, mint, coffee, roasted chestnut. Rich and flavorful but stays smooth and lively. Aged 26 months in all new French and American oak. (90 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $45
Light purple color. I love the spicy elements on the nose (pepper, paprika, bay leaf) on top of tart red and black currants, with notes of loamy earth, campfire, pine resin, really cool vibes on the nose. Full but so pretty on the palate with structured but rounded tannins and fresh acidity. Gorgeous, plush black cherries, currants and plums, juicy but crisp fruit, backed up by spicy pepper, paprika, grilled herbs, smoky barbecue. Notes of vanilla and wood fit in nicely into the overall package. Pretty now but I’d love to see in five to seven years. Aged 25 months in a mix of French and American oak, about 50% new. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The Exciting Indigenous Red Grapes of Alto Adige

Trentino/Alto Adige is high on my list of bucket list wine regions to visit. This autonomous region in northeastern Italy seems like a unique crossroads, and it fascinates me with its mix of Italian and Germanic cultures and dynamic terrain. With vines planted in varied soils at elevations between 600 and 3,300 feet, indigenous and international varieties that thrive here, and the wines are something special. 

I recent read and reviewed Jason Wilson’s book “Godforsaken Grapes,” and he spends a good amount of time exploring Alto Adige (also called Südtirol or South Tyrol). I was reading the book as I was tasting through some Alto Adige wines made from the indigenous Schiava (also called Vernatsch) and Lagrein grapes, and was shouting “Amen!” to myself as he ranted about the excitement available from these wines.

Vineyards in Alto Adige. Photo Credit: Florian Andergassen.

The region is relatively small (producing less than 4 million cases of wine a year) and perhaps a bit confusing for some consumers. The names of the winegrowing zones and grapes sound a bit odd, and everything seems to be called by at least two names. That said, if you’re up for exploration, there is a ton of delicious and exceptional wine coming out of Alto Adige.

While whites make up 60% of the wine grown here (led by Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay), I recently jumped on the chance to taste some reds from Alto Adige. Schiava is such a cool grape, making lighter-styled wines with juicy red fruits and delicious spicy, earthy notes. Lagrein makes more velvety, cherry-driven wines with cool black tea, leathery, clove elements. Both delight me with their food-friendly appeal and drinkability, and I use that term in the best sense of the word. And, considering these wines aren’t exactly big collector’s items, the prices can be very reasonable.

Below are my notes on a few Alto Adige reds, which I received as samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Abbazia di Novacella Schiava - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Valle Isarco/Eisacktaler
SRP: $17
Gorgeous light strawberry color. Nose boasts red apple, raspberries, with rhubarb, rose petals, this is bright and crunchy and spicy. Medium/light-bodied with crisp, lip-smacking acidity and a pure and bright aesthetic. Strawberries, raspberries, red apple peel, the fruit is tangy and bright and laced with cranberry spiced jam, tobacco smoke and an interesting earthy-mushroom note. Lovely, brisk, bright, Schiava (also known as Trollinger and Vernatsch) is such a damned fun grape! All stainless steel. (90 points)

2015 Franz Gojer - Glögglhof Rondell - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, St. Magdalener
SRP: $26
Medium ruby color. Aromas of roses, violets, rhubarb and clove topped in juicy black cherries and ripe raspberries. A delightfully sour wine with dusty tannins and bright acidity, almost reminds me of a framoise lambic beer. Sour raspberries and cherries mix with spiced tea, rose hips, rhubarb, bay leaf and ginger notes. So delightful and fresh, this is so “drinkable” in the best sense of the word but it also has some structure. Mostly Schiava with some Lagrein blended in. Stainless steel fermentation, aged in large, old oak. (89 points)

2015 Castelfeder Lagrein Rieder - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Südtirol
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Nose explodes with tart currants, black cherries, lots of lavender, grilled herbs, black pepper, a smoky-leathery note, too. Mediu-bodied, medium tannins, refreshing acidity, this wine is wrapped together nicely with juicy red and black cherries and plums. Lots of spicy, herbal tea notes (black pepper, bay leaf, black tea) with some campfire smoke and leather. Could age for a few or benefit from a decant, but this is a very pretty, delicious Lagrein. (89 points)

2016 Muri-Gries Lagrein - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Südtirol
SRP: $17
Light purple color. Peppery burst on the nose with anise, grilled herbs and dry rub spices on top of black cherries and violets. Medium-bodied, balanced nicely with a light dose of tannins and medium acidity. Pure black cherry, tart plum, lots of pepper and clove, leather and smoke, campfire and coffee grounds. Very nice, delicious, complex stuff, this is great now but could actually age for a few years, too. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Delicious, Value-Driven New Releases from Virginia

Since my last post on the Virginia Governor's Cup winners, I've received a few samples from Virginia, which I'm always stoked to taste.

Stinson Vineyards has, for me, become such a reliable source of high quality, exciting wines, and when you factor in the easygoing price points, there's a lot to get excited about here. I also taste some delicious white blends from Muse and Early Mountain.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Stinson Vineyards Chardonnay - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $24
Medium yellow color. Rich yellow apples, apricots and lemon curd on the nose, with buttercream, white flowers, honeyed tea and saline. Plush texture but zesty acidity combine for a creamy but super fresh wine. Buttered biscuits, almond and honey on top of apples and apricot, I also get complex notes of chalk dust, white pepper, saline. A beautiful Chardonnay, sourced from Mount Juliet Vineyards, across from Stinson, this wine is fermented and aged 10 months in 15% new French oak, with 50% maloactic fermentation. (90 points)

2016 Stinson Vineyards Cabernet Franc - Virginia
SRP: $25
Bright ruby color. Juicy red cherries, smoky black cherries and dark plums, this boasts tobacco barn, scorched earth and roasted red pepper notes, with some cedar and coffee. Moderate acidity frames the wine nicely, the tannins are structured but rounded. Lots of ripe red and black cherries and plums, mixed with black pepper, cigar smoke, bell pepper, roasted red pepper, notes of violets and cedar. Lovely stuff as usual from Stinson! From Benevino Vineyards, this is aged nine months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $21
Deep pink color. Striking aromas of red apples, strawberries, so spicy and herbal with note of sage, pot flowers, rhubarb, incense sticks – this is such an awesome wine to smell. On the palate, this shows some depth and darker fruit (red apple, red cherry, wild raspberry, but crisp and lively with fresh acid. Notes of white pepper, spiced tea, clove, pipe tobacco, this rose shows a wole host of intense, complex, intriguing flavors, but it maintains a crisp profile. So impressive, this is Stinson’s estate Tannat, grown in red clay loam soils. (91 points)

2017 Stinson Vineyards Mourvedre Rosé - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $21
Rich watermelon color. On the nose I get watermelon, white peaches and red apple, with notes of honey, nettle, spiced white tea. Light-medium-bodied on the palate but not lacking in flavor. Ruby red grapefruit, McIntosh apple, tangy cherries, mixed with notes of sea salt, nettle, honeysuckle. Brisk and spicy, fruity but zesty. Another solid vintage of this reliably delicious Virginia rose. Fruit sourced from Farmer’s Rest and Horton Vineyards. (88 points)

2017 Early Mountain Vineyards Five Forks - Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $25
Super floral and peach nose with limes and cucumber slices. Crisp and alive on the palate with mouthwatering acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Juicy peach and nectarine play well off of white and yellow flowers. Lively and crisp with a mineral-laden finish. 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 28% Petit Manseng, with some Pinot Gris, Viognier and Malvasia Bianca. (88 points)

2017 Muse Vineyards Thalia - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $25
I love the burst of peach on the nose, with lots of almond and crushed shell notes, some honeycomb. On the palate, the acidity is lovely and vibrant and this wine stays well away from being heavy or cloying like many white Rhone blends can be. Peach, apricot, lemon curd, with raw almond and crushed shells. Loving this style. 50% Roussanne, 43% Marsanne, 7% Viognier. Barrel-fermented, full maloactic, barrel-fermented, yet this is somehow still fresh and vibrant as hell. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Santa Barbara's Byron Amazes with 2015 Chardonnays and Pinots

I visited Santa Barbara for my first real California wine trip back in 2006, and swooned over many a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I still have a soft spot for the wines from Byron, and I’ve tasted them on and off throughout the years.

Founded in 1984 by Ken Brown, Byron sources Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from a host of well-known and high quality vineyards like Bien Nacido, Julia’s, and Nielson, the latter of which surrounds the winery and is also the name of Bryon’s sister winery. The voracious California powerhouse Jackson Family Wines purchased Byron Winery and the Nielson Vineyard in 2006. The wines are made by Jonathan Nagy, a Santa Barbara native who joined Byron in 2001 and has worked closely with founder Ken Brown before taking the helm.

I recently received five Byron wines from 2015. They’re “new” releases in the sense that winemaker Jonathan Nagy holds the wines back for a period of time, depending on vintage characteristics. These two Chards and three Pinots all impressed me and seem to be drinking wonderfully right now. I love that Byron combo of juicy fruit on a lighter frame with lots of crispness and non-fruit complexity, and these wines sure deliver.

They were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Byron Chardonnay Nielson Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $40
Light gold color. Bold and beautiful on the nose with bruised yellow apple, baked pear, lime juice, notes of nougat and cinnamon buns mix with sea breeze and chalk dust, and the combo is so good. Creamy and plush on the palate but moderating acidity keeps it fresh. Plump yellow apples and pears with apricot jam, drizzled with lime, and topped in some toasted almonds and flowers. Lots of richness here but complex and vibrant as well. Aged 15 months in about 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Byron Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apple, buttercream, raw almond, sea salt, along with honey and cinnamon. Medium-bodied, precise acidity with a lively saline element. Rich texture with notes of whipped butter, apricot jam, lemon curd and baked apple, but also fresh with notes of chalk dust and crushed oyster shells. Nougat and honey on the finish, this is delicious and balanced. Aged 15 months in about 70% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Byron Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $55
Bright ruby color. Juicy and tangy fruits on the nose (raspberries, strawberries, cherries), beautiful and fresh with rhubarb, rose petals and tomato leaf. Medium-bodied and really fresh on the palate with dusty tannins and crisp acidity, lots of tart cherry and ripe strawberry fruit. Complex notes of rhubarb, pepper, tobacco and tomato leaf, some fresh green herbs and judiciously-sprinkled cedar. Lovely, fresh, delish. Aged 16 months in 35% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Byron Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $45
Bright ruby color. Gorgeous nose of chilled strawberries, raspberry jam and black cherries, along with cola, rhubarb, white pepper and roses. Plush but fresh, dusty but bright, fruity but it’s tangy and lively. Tart black cherries, raspberry jam, fresh strawberries, the fruit mixes nicely with flavors of roses, rhubarb, sarsaparilla, cola and mushroom. Fresh and vibrant but can improve for at least a few years. Aged 15 months in 45% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Byron Pinot Noir La Encantada Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $55
Medium ruby color. Enticing aromas of raspberries, blackberry and strawberry jam, this is a darker, saucier aromatic display with notes of sweet cola, rhubarb, rose petals and barbecue sauce. Medium-bodied on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Pretty black cherries, raspberries and summer plums, backed up by menthol, earth, roasted chestnut. Elements of rhubarb, white pepper and mushroom add complexity. Fruit but deep, accessible but can age. Aged 15 months in 55% new French oak. (92 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.