Isaac James Baker is a wine lover and writer, wildlife photographer, hiker, climber, and all-around fan of wild places and experiences.
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Tuesday, August 21, 2018
Delicious, Meaty Mourvedre from California
I don't think I pay enough attention to the Mourvedre grape. I do love me some reds and pink wines from Bandol, the Mourvedre grape's ancestral stomping grounds. But there's so much more out there to explore.
California is home to some excellent Mourvedre, when planted in the right spots and crafted by the right winemakers. While used as a blending grape (usually with Grenache, Syrah or other red Rhone varieties), several winemakers are producing varietal Mourvedres that recently reminded me of the heights this grape can achieve.
Dirty & Rowdy have been making waves for a long time now, and justifiably so. I recently tasted two of their Mourvedres, and a Mourvedre-based blend, that blew me away with their freshness, spiciness, and unique flavor profiles. Add in a wonderful Mourvedre from Sonoma-based Two Shepherds, and a Bandol, and you've got yourself a fun afternoon.
I tasted these wines with good friends and lots of friend chicken. The chicken was salty, spicy and moist, and actually worked really well, especially with the leaner Mourvedre style of these California wines. My notes below...
2014 Two Shepherds Mourvedre - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado
Aromas of fresh raspberries, cherries, red apples, spicy pepper and roses. So brisk and bright on the palate, but structure from the tannins, refreshing, crisp red fruits. I love to roses, white pepper and bay leaf elements. Gorgeous. (92 points)
2016 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvedre Old Vine Enz Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Lime Kiln Valley
Nose of spices and roses but some pomegranate and black cherries. Fresh, lively, tangy with dusty tannins, raspberries and pepper. Lots of fun but deep, complex, with earthy, savory and floral complexities that will come out more with time. (91 points)
2016 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvedre Shake Ridge Ranch - California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Aromas of black pepper, roses, potpourri on top of raspberries, red apples. Crisp and bright acidity but structured so well. Cherries, spicy currants, raspberries, spicy black pepper, earthy notes, deep floral tones. This was decanted for hours and it felt airy and floral, but still structured for a solid sleep in the cellar. (92 points)
2016 Dirty and Rowdy MSG Chalone - California, Central Coast, Chalone
Really cool aromatic display of black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce, roses, black pepper. Bold tannins but crisp acidity. Crunchy black cherries, pomegranate, lots of baking spices and dark, earthy, charcoal notes but also airy, lifted notes. Complex minerals underneath. Really pretty, I’d love to crack open another in three to five years. Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache. (93 points)
2014 La Bastide Blanche Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol
So smoky and beefy on the nose (definitely some brett, but it’s not overwhelming), with black cherries, roasted red peppers. Super grippy on the palate, this was by far the heaviest wine of the night (as expected), and really needs more time. Medium acidity keeps it lively. Lots of smoky, roasted herbs, earth, violets, charcoal. Massive, young but yummy. (90 points)
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