When I first heard the term pop up a decade or so ago, usually among conversation with my dorky wine trade friends, it made some sense. It was used to describe a lot of the wines we all had liked for a long time: lower alcohol, no overt new oak, sometimes fizzy (Pet-Nat, for example), sometimes funky and quirky.
The winemakers who extolled this old-school, less technologically-focused aesthetic seemed like the kind of crunchy nerds I loved to hang out with. The focus on sustainability, biodynamics and other eco-conscious farming and winemaking methods has always resonated with me. And, of course, I found the wines to be delicious and fascinating.
But the term avoided definition or classification, and was used loosely and unsparingly. As the movement grew and garnered more and more attention in the culture, I noticed two loose camps begin to assemble.
The Natural Wine Evangelists seemed driven by levels of conviction and certainty that were beyond me. Now, I'm a semi-crunchy, organic-loving, biodynamic-supporting, nature-worshipping outdoorsman who really enjoys plenty of low-sulfite, extended skin contact, funky wines. But while I support low-intervention farming methods for environmental reasons, I'm unconvinced natural wines are any better for the human body. I have similar worries about the holier-than-thou attitude that seems to be a byproduct of the certain elements within the natural wine movement.
Then there are the Natural Wine Haters. They write off the entire movement as misguided, the wines as undrinkable, the natural wine-lovers as hipster lemmings. Their disdain for natural wines rivals the missionary zeal of the other side.
I'm not happy in either camp, although my sympathies lie with small producers trying to minimize their impact on the environment. But I find most of the discussion about what is and what is not "natural wine" and why it's good or bad to be exhausting. This is why I've written so little on the topic.
But I was beyond stoked to attend the inaugural Solstice Festival at Burnt Hill in Montgomery County, Maryland. This natural wine festival attracted me, first and foremost, because of the people behind it. I first wrote about Old Westminster Winery in 2016. I could tell Drew Baker and his sisters Ashli and Lisa were onto something great, and I was going to keep my eye on them.
When they broke ground on their new farm, Burnt Hill, and started talking about Maryland Gamay, I was all ears. Dave McIntyre at the Washington Post has a great, in-depth write-up on Burnt Hill in the Washington Post, which I won't attempt to reiterate because, well, he gets it all down pretty damn well here.
The Burnt Hill Crew teamed up with a few dozen low-intervention winemakers from all over the country (and world). They all gathered at a gorgeous farm in the rolling hills of Clarksburg, Maryland, to crack open bottles and spread positive wine vibes.
Only a cynical teetotaler could manage not to have a total blast at this festival. Hundreds of people gathered under large tents to taste unique and quirky wines of all different varieties and styles. I saw a few greased mustaches, but found nary a hint of pretension. I met up with some old friends, made a few new ones, and enjoyed supporting one of the Mid-Atlantic's most exciting wine producers.
Through it all, I managed to take a bunch of tasting notes on some delicious wines, which are included below. Enjoy! I sure did. And I can't wait to celebrate the Summer Solstice again at this festival in 2020.
Broc Cellars
2018 Broc Cellars Chenin Blanc Pétillant Shell Creek Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Yeasty, lots of fizz, pear, honey, dusty, tart lemon, some spice and herbal tones, Really delicious. (90 points)
2018 Broc Cellars Friulano amore bianco Fox Hill Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
Tropical, floral, peach nectar, tiny bubbles, lots of flowers and fruit, balanced nicely, a transparent style, and I love it. (91 points)
2017 Broc Cellars Cabernet Franc Whole Cluster - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Juicy, cherries, plush, not too herbaceous, bright and spicy, whole-cluster fermented. (88 points)
Hiyu Wine Farm
N.V. Hiyu Apple Floreal Cider - USA, Oregon, Hood River County
Juicy, crunchy, fizzy, fun. (87 points)
2018 Hiyu Zinfandel Smockshop Band Rosé - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Gorgeous cherry color. Rich texture, juicy raspberries, with spice and herbs. (89 points)
2018 Hiyu Grenache Smockshop Band - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Spicy, earthy, strawberries, bright and fun, spicy and tangy with a charcoal and forest floor element. Very exciting. (91 points)
N.V. Hiyu The May II - USA, Oregon/Washington, Columbia Gorge
Deep auburn color. Shows caramel, spiced tea, tons of pepper and grilling spices, shows some tannins, some volatile acidity but it’s woven in nicely (kind of like Madeira) and the wine shows a lot of depth and intrigue. A blend of wines from five different vintages, skin-fermented Pinot varieties. A weird wine that actually really works out, and I’m a fan. (89 points)
Georgian wines
2017 Chona's Marani Mtsvane & Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Almond, hay, waxy, apricot, sea salt. (88 points)
2017 Chona's Marani Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Very perfumed, briny, big texture, spiced tea and ginger, mint and menthol elements, a really balanced but wild wine that I found really impressive. (90 points)
2018 Baia's Wine Tsolikouri - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Quince, orange marmalade, super zippy with briny, salty complexities, and hay, waxy, honeyed notes. Really unique and fascinating, totally delicious, a real surprise and treat. (91 points)
2018 Gvantsa's Wine Aladasturi - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Super spicy red with cherries, strawberries, lots of incense, potpourri, spiced tea, bitter black tea. Fun stuff with some unique spicy flavor profiles. (88 points)
2016 Naotari Rkatsiteli Kisi Khikhvi Amber Wine - Georgia, Kakheti, Kvareli
So briny, dusty, earthy, a bit heavy and bitter. Pass. A blend of Rkatsiteli, Kisi and Khikhvi. (80 points)
2017 Orgo Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
Dark tart, anise, incense sticks, tangy plum skins and pepper. Fun! (87 points)
California
2017 Matthiasson Chardonnay Harms Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
Salty and fresh with lemon crème, apricot. Pure, salty, a bit briny but lots of lush elements of honey and cream as well. Very pretty Chardonnay from Matthiasson, per usual. (91 points)
2018 Matthiasson Mataro Tendu - USA, California, Central Valley, Yolo County
Fresh, spicy, tangy, yet shows complexity. Vibrant red fruits with earthy, savory elements. Complex yet goes down so easily. (88 points)
2018 Matthiasson Tendu - USA, California
Barbera-based blend. Juicy, tangy but sweet cranberry sauce, raspberries, fun and fresh and crushable. (87 points)
2017 Matthiasson Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre - USA, California, Napa Valley
So fresh and floral with tangy red fruits and lots of pepper, potpourri, grilled herbs. Juicy but it’s really complex and spicy as well. (90 points)
Lightwell Survey
2016 Lightwell Survey Cabernet Franc The Weird Ones Are Wolves - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Crushable, punchy, juice, nice floral, spice, tea elements. Has dashed of Petite Manseng and Riesling in it. Pretty cool stuff. (88 points)
2018 Lightwell Survey Blaufränkisch Dark Days - USA, Virginia
Really dark ruby color. Lots of fun, fresh, juicy strawberries and floral, spicy tones. 100% Blaufränkisch. (87 points)
2016 Lightwell Survey Hintermen - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Peachy, tennis ball, magnolia flowers on the nose. Floral and juicy on the palate with super ripe peach, drizzled with lime, a mineral-rocky undertone. Really fun and cool stuff. Riesling and Petite Manseng. (89 points)
Fausse Piste
2018 Fausse Piste Muscat Fish Sauce Pet-Nat - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
Spicy, floral, punchy, fine bubbles, really fresh. (88 points)
2018 Fausse Piste Oyster Sauce Grenache Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Grenache rose. Fresh cherries and strawberries, racy acidity. (89 points)
N.V. Fausse Piste Pizza Sauce - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Zesty, cherry-driven, accessible but has this complexity of texture and flavors from the aging and solera-style of this wine. Easy-drinking in the best sense of the word, but a lot of fun, too. A multi-vintage blend of all sorts of red (and some white) grapes. (90 points)
Scholium Project
Deep texture, rich fruit (orange, lemon, peach) with spicy herbal tones. Vibrant and impressive. (89 points)
2016 Scholium Project The Prince In His Caves Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Lemon, peach, honey, waxy notes, some mint and white pepper. This has some skin-contact that gives it a lot more textural depth and some cool olive oil and almond elements. (90 points)
2016 Scholium Project 1MN Bechtold Ranch - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
So aromatic with rose potpourri, pepper, clove, warm clay, tangy red apple and raspberry fruit. Gorgeous texture, dusty tannins, crisp acidity, crunchy red fruits laced with all sorts of earthy, savory complexities. A beautiful Bechtoldt vineyard that should do interesting things with age. Wine of the festival for me. (93 points)
Purity
2018 Purity Wine Verdelho Silvaspoons - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
Whoa! No formal notes, but this wine wowed me and kept me at this table to try the others. (90 points)
2018 Purity Wine Roussanne Orange Carbo-Crush Oakstone - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So, this is really fun. Skin-fermented, semi-carbonic Roussanne – and it works! Texturally deep but fresh, with a pleasant bitterness and lots of complex spicy, floral tones. Fascinating and, yeah, weird, but it works. I bought a bottle to blind some wine nerds on and mess with them. (91 points)
2016 Purity Wine Grenache Covfefe Oakstone Vineyard - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So spicy, tangy, nice grip. Tart fruits with lots of pepper and earth and a fun but not overwhelming amount of funky, beefy notes. (87 points)
2015 Purity Wine Syrah Blackbird - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Stewed plums, incense sticks, black pepper, mulling spices. A warm and roasted kind of Syrah, but still nice. (86 points)
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