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Monday, June 28, 2021

Black Kite Cellars' Exciting Chardonnays and Pinots

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir likely needs no introduction here. This Mendocino appellation is packed with well-known vineyards and producers, making quite a wide array of styles.

Among them, Black Kite Cellars has an impressive portfolio. Kicked off in 2003, Black Kite Cellars is the product of Rebecca and Tom Birdsall, and co-founded by Rebecca’s parents, Donald and Maureen Green. They bought the site that would become Kite’s Rest in 1995, and it was replanted to Pinot Noir in 1999. Divided into several blocks, the 40-acre parcel rises up from the Navarro River (River Turn), through gravelly loam (Stony Terrace), and up to the edge of the forest (Redwood’s Edge). The wines are made by Jeff Gaffner, formerly of Arrowood, who also has his own label, Saxon Brown.

They produce five different Pinot Noirs from their estate Kite’s Rest vineyard (their “home” Pinots), in addition to some “away” Pinot Noirs from other sites. The Pinot Noirs offers a great look into the differences between these sites. And their Chardonnays, sourced from some epic Sonoma sites, are delightful. Two are featured today.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2018 Black Kite Chardonnay Jasper Freestone - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $78
Rich yellow color. Lush but vibrant aromas with a mix of honey, almond and peanut shells, along with sea salt, white tea and chalk over lemon curd, orange peel, some toasted baguette. Plump texture on the palate but pristine acidity keeps this so lively. Lemons, oranges and yellow apple fruit mixes well with nougat, baguette and honey tones. There’s this chalky, mountain stream essence that is really attractive. Deep but crisp and nuanced, I’d love to revisit this in three or four years. The producer’s first vintage from this site, which sits at the base of west-facing slopes four miles from the Pacific Ocean. Aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak. (93 points)

2018 Black Kite Chardonnay Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $62
Light gold color. Lush and inviting aromas of candied pineapple and lemon curd, along with honey, ginger, white tea and some chalky tones. Plush texture, bright acidity, with lots of lemon curd, pineapple and yellow apples. Notes of hay, hazelnut, whipped honey, ginger, with salted peanut tones and some floral, chalky elements. Rich and jam-packed with flavor but nuanced and vibrant throughout. Aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak. (92 points)

2018 Black Kite Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $68
Dark ruby color. Aromas of bright raspberry, deep cherry, the fruit is loaded with complex spice tones of clove, pepper, rhubarb, mint, with rose petals and earth. The palate is pure and vibrant with deep cherry and spiced cranberry sauce fruit. Lots of black tea, roasted chestnut, root beer and rose petals notes. Earthy, clay complexities. This is a crisp, delicious Pinot that opens nicely right away but could also age for a while. Aged 17 months in 50% new French oak. (92 points) 

2018 Black Kite Pinot Noir Kite's Rest - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $52
Deep ruby color. The nose shows deep notes of black cherries and juicy plums, with smoky earth, lots of interesting beefy tones, pepper and sage – really savory and interesting. Full-bodied with smooth tannins and moderate acidity, this has deep, dark, saucy black cherry fruit, with some spiced cranberry jam. Notes of coffee, pepper, black tea, violets. There are these underlying earthy, mineral tones. Needs air to open up, but very nice. Aged 17 months in 1/3 new French oak. This is a blend of specific blocks from Redwood’s Edge, River Turn and Stony Terrace. (91 points)

2018 Black Kite Pinot Noir Stony Terrace - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $64
Deep ruby color. A nose of raspberry jam and sweet black cherries, with notes of mesquite, campfire smoke, with leather, pepper and some caramel and roasted chestnut notes. Full and chewy on the palate with medium acidity and gobs of black cherries and dark plums. A dark and saucy style with notes of tobacco, clove and leather. Coffee, mocha and cedar. Fun, juicy, delicious stuff. From the sun-drenched middle of the vineyard, aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2018 Black Kite Pinot Noir River Turn - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $64
Medium ruby color. Lovely nose of cherries and plums, a vibrant but deep feel with rse petals, warm clay, cola, chestnut. On the palate, this shows vibrant acidity with smooth tannins and juicy but crunchy fruit (raspberry, cherry, plum). Nuances of cola, spiced tea, rose petals and wet earth. Really pretty, with these dusty, mineral accents. Focused, delightful Anderson Valley Pinot from a block near the Navarro River, this is aged 17 months in 2/3 French oak. (93 points)

2018 Black Kite Pinot Noir Redwoods' Edge - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $64
Deep ruby color. A concentrated nose of raspberry jam, plum sauce, black cherries, with violets, sarsaparilla, birch, minty, peppery tones. Full and suave on the palate with a chewy tannic structure and medium acidity. Ripe and forward with plums, black cherries and raspberry, but the nuances are exciting, too: black pepper, walnut, cola, coffee, black tea, underlying earth tones. Needs some air and time and it really opens up to show more. Would be a delight to hold for four or five years. From the higher portion of the vineyard, aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Angel Hawk - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $85
Medium ruby color. Ripe but fresh with cherries, jammy raspberries, along with spicy pepper and oregano, sage, pepper, menthol, lots of intricacies to pull out. Fresh acidity frames the wine well, supported by suave tannins, with fresh cherries, raspberries and tangy red plum fruit. Notes of mint, menthol and rhubarb, with nuanced cola. Chewy but fresh and zippy, this is delicious right out of the gate but needs a few years to show its best. This is their reserve wine and, after 11 months in barrel, the reserve barrels are chosen, blended, and aged for another nine months in 2/3 new French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

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