Year-End Selections: International Wines for Difficult Times

As a long year winds down, I hope you have some nice bottles lined up to share with loved ones. With the holidays in full swing, I’m taking a break from sparkling wines and focusing on some wines that offered me a chance to travel. In my mind at least; I’ve been cooped up for a long time. But there are places I want to visit and wine regions I want to dig into, and tasting wine always gets me thinking and planning.

I’ve long been a fan of wines from Argentina, and I recently tasted through several wines that reminded me that there’s a lot more to explore. The value to be found there has always attracted me, but more and more I’m finding wines that show a whole lot more depth and nuance than I expected. Oh, to visit one day!

Chile is another country I have had on my list. Surfing the coast, climbing some mountains, and visiting the wine regions in between, it’s a bucket list trip I plan to take one day. But, in these pandemic times, some delightful reds from Chile offered a peek into a beautiful country.

I also have three wines that could only come from Southwest France. With some many varied appellations and styles, I always enjoy trying to dig into the diversity and history of the wines from this region. With a host of indigenous varieties, plenty of value to find, and a fascinating winemaking culture and history, the three wines in this report are barely scratching the surface.

An inexpensive red from Veneto and an impressive Napa Cab round out this report.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Argentina

2020 Piattelli Vineyards Torrontés - Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $14
Medium straw color. The nose pops with peaches and white flowers, mango and papaya, lots of tropical flowers. The palate shows crisp acidity and moderately creamy texture, but there’s a nervy, salty vibe that helps keep things fresh against the juicy, papaya and peach fruit. Some slate and mineral elements on the finish, with flowers, too. There’s quite a lot going on here, and shows freshness and balance. (89 points)

2018 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
A vibrant purple color. Juicy nose of black cherries and red plums tossed with a generous dose of mesquite, violet petals, cocoa, really lush and inviting. Full but suave on the palate with medium acidity and smooth tannins. Flavors of blueberries and plum sauce mix well with a nice, stony, mineral, graphite component. Those smoky, meaty, bacon elements linger onto the finish. Fun and highly delicious but shows nice complexity as well. (89 points)

2014 Mascota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Magnánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $70
This Cabernet sports a deep, dark, inviting nose of currants and blueberries, with complex elements of coffee, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut and herbal, floral tones – just a beautiful, enticing aromatic display. The palate delivers what the nose promises, with deep concentration and grippy tannins but lively acidity and plenty of freshness. Tangy blueberries, blackberries and figs, mixes with smoky, earthy tones, and iron/graphite elements. A wine worthy of cellar contemplation and the choicest grilled meats, this is a delightful Mendoza Cabernet. (93 points)

2020 Bodega El Esteco Torrontés Don David Reserve - Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose pops with classic notes of peaches and guava, with interesting salty, yellow flower and honeyed tones. The palate shows zippy acidity and a pleasantly creamy texture. Peaches and papaya flow, with tones of tropical flowers, sea salt and whipped honey. Crisp and bright but delightful textural depth and lovely Torrontes tropical goodness. (89 points)

2020 Durigutti Proyecto “Las Compuertas” Criolla Parral - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
SRP: $ 25
Pale ruby color. So juicy with aromas of raspberries, strawberries and red apple, with complex notes of spiced tea, pepper and airy roses. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins and bright acidity, which supports bright red fruit (red apple, raspberry and strawberry). Notes of lavender, rose petals, violets and clove add complexity, and air brings out sage, rhubarb and clay tones. So fresh, airy and floral with elegant, flora, spicy tones. I really want to see more wines like this from Argentina in the U.S. Made from Criolla Chica (Pais), this is something else! Crushable but complex and beautiful. (91 points)

Chile

2017 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Cabo de Hornos - Chile, Rapel Valley, Cachapoal Valley
SRP: $57
Dark purple. The aromas are so, so good, with deep currants, plums, smoky earth, menthol, a warm holiday cider vibe, really lovely. Full but fresh on the palate, the tannins show solid grip with refined edges, and the acidity is lively. Fresh currants and blackberries, joined with a unique mix of mint, tobacco, eucalyptus, clove, violets, a lot comes out with air. Nice concentration and freshness that will pay off in the cellar. 100% Cabernet. (92 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Carménère Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Rapel Valley, Peumo
SRP: $24
Deep purple color. Aromas show a classic mix of black cherries, tobacco, bell pepper, along with violet petals and coffee grounds – just delightful. Full-bodied, suave with blackberries and fig fruit, balanced with fresh acidity. Blackberries and cherry fruit, tangy but saucy, and it mixes well with roasted red pepper, coffee and tobacco tones. A lot of complexity in here for the price, and a really interesting expression of Carménère. (90 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Pinot Noir Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $20
Vibrant ruby color. A really spicy, floral and perfumed display on the nose with rose petals, black pepper, rhubarb and pepperoni over tangy red cherries. Crisp acidity, light tannins, this is a bright and floral Pinot with juicy strawberries and cranberry fruit. Notes of rose teal, paprika, rhubarb and sage add complexity to this fun, fresh wine. Shows a lot more complexity and authenticity than a lot of similarly-priced Pinot Noirs from a lot of other regions and countries. (89 points)

Italy

2020 Gran Passione Veneto Rosso - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $14
Light purple color. The nose shows a pleasantly jammy mix of raspberries and cherries along with sweet rose petals and red licorice notes. The palate shows medium acidity and smooth, chewy tannins with sweet plums and raspberries. Has a saucy, fun appeal with notes of roses, clove and licorice. A fun, value-driven blend of Merlot and Corvina. (87 points)

France

N.V. Domaine du Moulin Gaillac Méthode Ancestrale - France, Southwest France, Gaillac
SRP: $20
Rich yellow color. The nose shows a delightful mix of white tea and candle wax, chalk dust, over lemons and yellow apples. The palate is zesty and brisk with a nice mix of whipped honey and limestone/chalky tones and delightfully fine bubbles. The yellow apple, lime and lemon fruit is fun and fresh and the wine maintains a floral, bright, steely appeal that would make this delightful with Ramen, sushi and more. Crisp and fun but enough depth to keep it interesting. Made from 100% Mauzac, a Pet-Nat lover’s wine for sure. (88 points)

2020 Domaine Duffour Côtes de Gascogne - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Côtes de Gascogne
SRP: $12
Medium yellow color. So bright on the nose, with limes and kiwi, lemongrass, tones of white pepper and oregano, a really fun, bright and spicy wine. Crisp and floral on the nose, zesty but some pleasant creaminess. Kiwi, lemon, green apples and white peach fruit mix well with floral perfume and celery seed tones. Super fun and fresh, nice creaminess, a delightful shellfish and salad wine. (87 points)

2018 Producteurs Plaimont Saint-Mont Nature Secrete - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Saint-Mont
SRP: $13
Deep, dark purple color. The nose shows a pleasant mix of campfire, roasted coffee and anise over top of black cherries and currants. On the palate this shows fresh acidity, some rough edges around the tannins but its also packed with tart currant fruit that makes it accessible. A complex mix of menthol, tar, pepper and earth. A spicy, tangy but friendly wine that would pair well with any grilled game and veg you could throw at it. Tannat with 15% Pinenc and 15% Cab Sauv. (86 points)

USA

2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. The nose shows a warm compote of roasted figs and tangy blueberries with deep tones of anise, clove and graphite, along with pepper, cocoa and some gravelly, loam tones. The palate shows firm tannins and medium acidity, along with a tart but sweet mix of blueberries, figs and black cherries. There’s a complex mix of smoky, minty, cocoa, tobacco and roasted chestnut elements. This wine sports a lot of concentration, age-worthiness and mystique, especially for a Napa Cab at this price point. Includes a combined 11% Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot, aged 20 months in 43% new oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Selections for the Holidays

 It’s been a long year. Whatever holidays you may be celebrating, I wish you and yours safety, joy, and good food and wine.

So, this week I have some selections that are all over the map. I tried to curate some samples that would please crowds, provide joy and pair well with celebrations and wintry foods.

Like many of you, I’m sure, I love bubbles year-round. But, of course, from Thanksgiving through New Year’s, bubbles are huge, and I have a nice mix in here. From inexpensive tank method bubbles through some delightful Champagnes.

Domaine Bousquet brings its Charmat method bubbles, which are the best-selling bubbles from Argentina and are inexpensive, accessible and fun. Lanson delivers three different Champagne options that offer a nice view of their approach, while Bruno Paillard delivers, as always. And California's Frank Family brings two different Champagne method sparklers to the table.

There are some also deep, juicy, warm reds, too, from California’s Smith Madrone, Sullivan and Tooth & Nail.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling wines

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The nose shows a bright mix of lemon and kiwi with sugarcane, white flowers, and some crushed chalk and sweet tarts. The palate is bright and light with zippy acidity and integrated sugar, light bubbles, and flavors of lemons, green apple, kiwi, floral perfume, talc. Fresh, fun, light and steely, crowd-pleasing bubbles. 75/25 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, 11 g/l residual sugar. (86 points)

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut Rosé - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Pale salmon color. This has a crunchy and lively aromatic appeal with raspberry, tart strawberry and notes of rose petals and talc. Has a fresh and vibrant feel on the palate, with soft bubbles and a crisp, steely vibe. Strawberry and white cherry fruit mix with notes of honeysuckle, rose petals, and some crushed sweet tarts and chalk tones. Fresh, fun and zippy. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 12 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Light gold color. Beautiful nose of lemons and pears, topped with honey, sea salt, bread dough and white flowers – a whole lot going on for a wine at this price point. Zesty and chalky on the palate with yellow apples and lemon fruit, mixed with some nuanced biscuit and dough notes. Nice verve and floral/salty kick. A classic value Cremant that would please a wide spectrum of palates. Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois with a 10 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Pale salmon color. The nose is crisp and floral with raspberry and red apples peel, along with chalk dust, wildflowers and perfume. Crisp and zesty on the palate with tight bubbles and flavors of raspberry, red apple peel and orange zest. Nervy and fresh, a light feel but not shy, and has some complex floral perfume, chalk and talc notes. This is reliable and delicious stuff and so reasonably priced. All Pinot Noir aged 12-18 months on the lees, 12 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Le Black Réserve Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Light gold color. Smells of lemons, kiwi and quince, along with lovely floral and mountain stream elements. The palate is crisp and light with lemons, green apples and limes, along with flinty, limestone and mineral elements. Zippy but nice fresh, crunchy bread elements. Light but fun. 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (88 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne 1760 Le Rosé - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Gorgeous salmon color with a nose of red apples and wild raspberry mixed with dried rose petals, tomato leaf, white pepper, talc and honey. The palate is tart and tart with dusty, salty, brightness and tones of raspberries white cherry and McIntosh apple. Salty, floral, honeyed and mint elements add complexity. Fresh and floral but shows a lot of depth as well. 53% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Green Label - France, Champagne
SRP: $75
Rich yellow color. The nose pops with green apples and lemons, chalk dust, honeysuckle along with limestone and sea salt. Crisp and fresh with green apples, lemons, along with graham cracker, honey and some chalky, flinty elements. Delightful, accessible, a fun, fresh, quite complex mix of  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Light yellow color. An invigorating nose of saline, limestone and chalk mixed with yellow apples, lemons, biscuits and croissants. The palate is racy and crisp but shows a lovely depth of texture as well. Lemons, yellow apples and orange peel mix so well with chalky, salty, briny tones, and these deeper tones of bread dough and shaved ginger. Precise, beautiful stuff – there’s a lot of clarity and depth here. Aged four years sur lie, 5 g/l dosage. (92 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. Lovely nose of lemon curd and yellow apples with chalk dust, nougat, bread dough, some flinty tones. Creamy yet zesty on the palate with a chalky, flinty vibe that supports lemons, yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Pure, focused, dry and bright with a lot of complexity. An impressive iteration of Chardonnay sparkling wine from Frank Family. (91 points)

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium copper color. The nose shows a crunchy, focused appeal with lemons, red apple and white cherry, along with notes of fresh baguette, honeysuckle and white flowers. On the palate this is zesty and bright with lemons, raspberry and white cherries, along with a host of doughy, white flowers, chalk dust. So good, focused, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a delight of a sparkler. (90 points)

Red Wines

2020 Tooth & Nail “Stasis” Carbonic Zinfandel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District
SRP: $46
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and fun on the nose with cherries and plums, mixed with sweet violets, rose petals, pepper and cocoa. Zesty acid, dusty tannins and a juicy core of cherries and raspberries. I love the farmer’s market mix of herbs and flowers, along with notes of clay, tobacco, pepper. It’s lively as heck but has solid textural depth as well. Fun and crushable but memorable and complex, too – loving this style. From Tooth and Nail’s estate vineyard in Paso’s Willow Creek AVA. (90 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Syrah “Destinata” - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $29
Pretty violet color. The nose is airy and open with wild raspberries and juicy blueberries along with roses, violets and cola. The palate has this plush feel with smooth tannins and zesty acidity. Gorgeous blueberry, raspberry and cherry, crunchy yet deep fruit. Notes of violet petals, warm black tea, pepper and leather add complexity. That carbonic goodness is so fun but the fruit and complexity underneath are legit. A crushable, Beaujolais-inspired Syrah that just rocks. (91 points)

2018 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $62
Deep purple color. A warm, inviting mix of currants and black cherries with dusty earth, clay tobacco, leather, graphite, just a ton going on as it opens up. Full but suave with such vibrant acidity and structured tannins. The fruit is a deep but crunchy mix of tart currants and juicy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with delightful mix of earth and graphite, leather and charcoal, roasted red pepper and nuanced cedar. Complex, fresh, beautiful stuff, this will age wonderfully for who-knows-how-long. Includes some Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

2018 Sullivan Vineyards Coeur de Vigne - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $110
Bright purple color. Exciting yet classic nose of black cherries and currants, laced with savory and spicy tones of leather, black tea, smoked meat, tilled soil – a lot to unpack here. Crisp acidity frames the wine well against solid, grippy tannins and a core of deep currants, plums and blackberries. The complexities are really impressive: black tea, light roast coffee, tar, violets, tobacco and roasted bell pepper. There’s also this flinty, graphite and iron mystique that underlines the whole thing. Deep yet vibrant, this deserves age, time and your attention. Includes 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in 65% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Oregon's Troon Just Keeps on Rockin'

Longtime readers may have seen me praise Oregon’s Troon Vineyard in the past. Well, here I am again to do it again.

I can’t help it – Troon just keeps putting out exciting wines. From old classics to an array of newer blends and styles in recent years, their across-the-board consistency has been pretty amazing. Based in the Applegate Valley of southern Oregon, Troon puts out are biodynamic wines with native yeasts and a fresh, spicy but focused appeal.

If your palate tends more toward the leaner side of the Syrah spectrum, and you’re happy with roasted, savory, spicy flavors, this trio of Troon Syrahs is definitely worth checking out. “Syrah may be the ideal variety for our site,” says winegrower Craig Camp. After tasting a lot of these wines over the years, it’s a convincing argument. These three wines offer a good view of their approach to this grape overall, and it was a joy tasting them together and parsing through the nuances. All three of them were aged 20 months in mature French oak.

The Druid’s Fluid wines are based on the traditional blends of the Cotes du Rhone, and deliver just what you’d hope for from their French counterparts: delicious fruit, some spicy accents, and lots of value. The Cotes du Kubli wines are blends from Troon’s Cowhorn Vineyard, and are called such because they’re sourced from the hills around the Kubli Bench, a plateau above the Applegate River. They’re consistently reliable and delicious expressions of Troon’s style.

And, while label aesthetics doesn’t affect what’s in the bottle, it still matters. And Troon has been revamping their design in different ways lately, and I think it’s paying off. From the flowy symbol design of the Druid’s Fluid to the detailed guidebook style drawings of their biodynamic preparations, the bottles really draw my attention. And then the juice itself overdelivers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the three Syrahs, which I tasted single-blind.

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid White – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose sports this salty, floral, citrus-popping appeal with lemon, orange, peach, with some chalky, flinty tones. The palate has this crisp, nervy, salty vibe, which works well with the lemon, orange peel and kiwi fruit. The floral and herbal complexity is really something, with this minty, celery seed, saline, honeysuckle tones and this pervasive sense of mountain stream freshness and mineral nerviness. So fun, so good. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid Red – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Gamay-esque goodness on the nose, so floral and accessible, gushing with strawberries and cherries, along with rose petals, potting soil, clay and potpourri tones. Zesty and brisk acidity, with dusty tannins and a bright feel. Juicy strawberries, cherries and raspberries, laced with deep violets, sage, some pepper and light roast coffee. This wine is all about the mouthfeel and vibe, which is fresh, inviting and delightful. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose shows deep, fascinating scents of orange marmalade, lemon curd, with notes of whipped honey, nougat and sea salt. Deep texture with gorgeous honeyed mouthfeel and moderate acidity. Orange and lemon peel, yellow apple and pineapple fruit, juicy but fresh and focused. Notes of seashells, raw almond, hay, honey. A rich wine but crystal clear and so fresh. Seems like a few years of age could do some good. 55% Roussanne, 25% Marsanne, 20% Viognier, only 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Cotes du Kubli Rouge – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Wow, so fresh on the nose with this chilled raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruit, along with these airy tones of flowers and crushed chalk, and spicier tones of pepper and mulling spices. Zesty and dusty on the palate with crisp acidity and a focused appeal. The red cherries, cranberry and raspberry fruit is lively and crisp, and mixed well with black pepper, violets, and complex leather and beefy tones. Wow this is gorgeous stuff. Unique, airy, lifted, yet deep and complex. 84% Syrah, 16% Grenache, 12.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Estate – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Ooh, so inviting on the nose with raspberries, strawberries and blueberries, mixed with violets, and a lot of spice (paprika, pepper, curry powder, bay leaf – so good). Crisp acidity, nicely structured with medium tannins and a deep but bright fruit profile (blueberry, strawberry and raspberry). The wine has this gorgeous floral, earthy, spicy appeal, with pepper, curry powder, a potpourri of dried wildflowers and clove. Pretty and alive with a mineral-laden finish. Could use at least a few years to show it’s best, but so delightful young, too. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Siskiyou – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Beautiful ruby color. Freshness rules the aromas, with juicy cherries and strawberry tones, along with fascinating mix of pepper, pine tar, charcoal, violets and clove. On the palate, this shows crisp acidity and tannins that show a fine dusty grip. Delicious cherries and raspberries are mixed really well with elements of pepper, sage, warm clay, deep earth. Nuances of clove, tobacco and mineral round out the finish. It maintains this gravelly depth throughout – really delightful. From a cooler vineyard, named for the surrounding Siskiyou Mountains. (93 points IJB)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. On the nose, a nice kick of black pepper and roasted red pepper over top of the bright plum and juicy cherry fruit. Nice concentration on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and bright acidity, which sets the stage for beautiful dark cherry and plum fruit. The savory depth is really something, with a host of pepper, braised meats, pepperoni, gravelly and loamy earth. An age-worthy wine but also so inviting and fresh, there’s a lot going on here. Fruit sourced from a cooler site, this is a fascinating Syrah that will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Fascinating Rioja Wines from Ramon Bilbao

There are plenty of heralded wine regions I have yet to visit, far more than I will likely see in my lifetime. But Rioja is high on that list. One day I hope to visit the cellars of Lopez de Heredia and explore the larger region, but until then, wine offers that ability to travel through the senses.

For years, Rioja wines have consistently delivered for me, and I have so many fond memories of serving these wines to friends and family at gatherings, especially around the holidays and colder months. A few years back, I befriended a reddish-colored, malnourished alley cat, and helped her out over a long winter with a steady diet of canned tuna and chicken scraps. I named her Rioja.

Anyway, I recently tasted through some interesting wines from Rioja’s Bodegas Ramón Bilbao that are worth highlighting. The bodega’s namesake opened the winery in 1924. He passed away just five years later, leaving the bodega to his son Enrique. The company has grown and expanded over the decades, especially lately, and has spread out to make wines in Rueda and Rias Baixas. In Rioja today, they have more than 200 hectares of vineyards, and source grapes from some 900 more. Featured today is a solid lineup, from entry-level up to the flagship Mirto, whose first vintage was 1999. Across the board, these wines are very well done and worth checking out if you, like me, enjoy Rioja.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rías Baixas – Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $19
Medium yellow color. Aromas show zesty lemon and crunchy green apples, with white flowers and chalk and a nice, deeper honeyed element. Zippy and crisp on the palate, this shows yellow apples, kiwi and lemons, along with sea salt, lemon verbena, white tea and chalky tones. A nice creamy factor gives it some depth. Fun, accessible Albarino. All stainless steel, this spends six months on the lees. (88 points)

2020 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Rosado – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $18
Medium copper color. So fresh on the nose with lemons and white peach mixed with nettle, white pepper, dandelion greens and talc. The palate is zippy and crisp with nice textural depth. Flavors of white cherries and red apple peel mix well with notes of dandelion, chalk, talc, mint and minerals. There’s a bright, nervy, shellfish-friendly appeal but some nice complexity and depth, too. A lot going on. 85% Garnacha, 15% Viura. (88 points)

2017 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Crianza – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $19
Vibrant ruby color. The nose shows spicy pepper and paprika, leathery, sage tones over top of juicy raspberry and red currant fruit. The palate shows tangy red and black cherries and currants on a frame of light tannins, livened by the acidity. Notes of red pepper flakes, leather, pepper and earth add complexity. It’s fun and fresh, but offers a good amount of depth, and a ton of food-friendly fun. 100% Tempranillo aged 14 months in American oak. (88 points)

2017 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Edición Limitada – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $27
Light purple color. The nose exudes black cherries and red currants, along with scorched earth, leather, all sorts of incense sticks, with tones of cocoa and coffee. Nice grip on the palate, solid tannins meet well with moderate acidity, with a nice core of tart, dark currants and cherries. All sorts of fallen leaves, earth, soy, incense and black licorice elemnts add complexity. Needs air and some time to unpack the intricate savory tones, but this is very well done for the price. All Tempranillo aged 15 months in new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Reserva – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $27
Bright purple color. The nose shows deep cherries, plums and blackberries, with violets, warm clay and loamy earth, with sweet cocoa and sage tones – very pretty. Bright acidity gives this wine a lot of life, from start to finish, with nice tannic grip. Tangy cherry and plum fruit blends with complexities of cedar, sandalwood, clove, incense sticks and cigar box. Floral and earthy tones come out with air; this needs two to five years, then give it air and a nice roasted meat meal. Aged 20 months in American oak. (90 points)

2015 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Mirto – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $45
Bright purple color. Tangy cherries and dark plums on the nose, inviting yet deep and intricate with notes of rosemary, paprika, mint and bay leaf. There’s a deep core of red and black currant fruit, nice strong grip but no harsh edges, moderating acidity – everything is lined up so nicely. The complexity is really nice, with these tar, spiced tea, leather, clove and iron tones, but air opens up all sorts of stuff. Oaky tones aren’t overdone, and this is balanced, age-worthy and very, very pretty. Impressive stuff that Rioja lovers should seek out. (93 points)

2012 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Gran Reserva – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $39
Light purple color. The nose sports red cherries and some wild blackberry, with lovely tones of tilled soil, leather, tar, coffee and cedar. Really well-balanced on the palate with tangy acidity and suave but structured tannins. A juicy but tart mix of black cherries, laced with complex notes of leather, chewing tobacco, coffee grounds and cedar. Notes of bay leaf and mushroom broth come out with time. Vibrant and nuanced, fresh, refined already but needs a few years to show its best. 90% Tempranillo, the rest is Mazuelo and Graciano, aged 30 months in American oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for Autumn

In autumn, California pinot noir just hits the spot for me. Especially when the weather finally gets proper cool out, and I’m cooking dishes like cassoulet and braised meats again. It all makes sense with a fresh, delicious, savory pinot.

For California pinot fans, Sanford needs an introduction like metalheads need a primer on Black Sabbath. C’mon, we’re talking about legends, here — the history, the Santa Rita Hills vineyards that yield some classic wine. And 2019 marks the first full vintage with winemaker Trey Fletcher at the helm. After crafting wines with Littorai and Bien Nacido Vineyards, Sanford’s pinot noir is in very good hands for the future.

Fort Ross Winery delivers two different takes on Sonoma Coast pinot. The freshness in these is delightful, and if you’re a fan of that crisp red fruit and spice-toned thing like me, these are worth checking out. And Sonoma-Cutrer offers up a delicious 2019 pinot, too.

Oh, and there’s some corresponding chardonnays in this report because, well, they always go together.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Pinot Noir

2020 Sanford Pinot Noir Rosé – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. The nose shows a mix of sea salt, rose petals, and white pepper with red apple, wild strawberry and raspberry – just a delightful aromatic display. The palate is zippy and fresh, a crisp and nervy feel, with bright tones of red apples and tart raspberries. There’s this flinty, salty, mineral vibe that tastes authentic and exciting, and there’s some complex floral and spice tones that linger on the finish. Really impressive stuff, a rose to sip over two days, or age, too – it has that complexity that deserves it. Crazy value. (91 points)

2019 Sanford Pinot Noir – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Vibrant ruby color. Fresh strawberries, cherries and raspberries on the nose, laced with notes of clay, rose petals, some sage, pepper and tobacco – lovely stuff. Crisp acidity greets the palate, with dusty tannins, a vibrant airy appeal, with juicy cherry and strawberry fruit. The complex tones of rose petals, tea and earth mix well with this minerality on the finish. Just an elegant and complex Pinot that shows Sanford continuing their stride. This should age beautifully for who \-knows-how-long, and also shows serious value A blend from Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards, aged 11 months in 25% new oak, 13.5% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. The nose shows juicy, deep plums and black cherries with a mix of savory tones and black pepper, mesquite-like goodness. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine shows smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with saucier fruit (raspberries and black cherries), but it still shows a tangy edge. Notes of tar, pepper, tobacco mix with nuanced tones of cola and rhubarb. Classic, fun, delicious stuff that shows complexity as well – deserves some air or some time. Tank-fermented and aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $35
Juicy ruby color. Smells of fresh cherries, strawberries and cranberries, along with smooth, subtle vibes of rose petals and earth. Plush and smooth on the palate with moderate acidity and deep strawberry and cherry fruit, which is all nicely balanced. The savory elements of pepper, basil and rhubarb blend well with cola and light coffee. Accessible and moderately-priced but this wine backs it up with depth and complexity. Aged 18 months 10% new French oak, 13.5% alcohol. (90 points)

2018 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $52
Dark ruby color. Suave but fresh on the nose with black cherries, raspberries, laced with coffee, bay leaf, loamy earth and clay – really inviting stuff. Smooth tannins and fresh acid on a medium-bodied frame sets a good stage for the chilled cherry fruit. Complex notes of rhubarb, bay leaf, pepper, rose potpourri, a lot of air brings out all sorts of nuance. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar and accompany many a dish very well. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

Chardonnay

2019 Sanford Chardonnay – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Lively aromas with lemon and yellow apples, all sorts of nuances of chalk, crushed shells, salted nuts, wildflowers and honey. On the palate, this is balanced wonderfully, with a frame of bright acidity, a creamy texture, and a mix of lemon, honeydew melon and yellow apple fruit. There’s a chalky, salty, mineral-infused vibe that is lovely, and a host of nougaty, honeyed, biscuity depth, and the balance is wonderful. A brisk, flinty yet creamy finish. A delightfully complex and thought-provoking Santa Rita Chardonnay Hills. A blend of fruit from Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards, aged 11 months in 16% new oak, 13.5% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay The Cutrer – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon bars and yellow apples, with shaved ginger, hay, almond and sea salt. Creamy texture but vibrant acidity with crunchy green and yellow apples and lemon curd fruit. Notes of almond, hay, ginger and peanut shell mix well with some flinty, mineral tones. A harmonious, fresh, well-balanced Sonoma Chardonnay. All maloactic fermentation, aged 13 months in 25% new oak. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Rich yellow color. The nose sports richer tones of honey and almond with brighter tones of white flowers over yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Creamy yet focused on the palate with yellow apple, kiwi and lemon curd fruit. Notes of graham cracker and walnut, dried pineapple, but also salty, floral brightness, too. Rides a nice line and offers all Chardonnay lovers something. Aged 14 months in stainless steel and oak, 5% new. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Fort Ross Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $44
Deep yellow color. Aromas of pear and honey, almond and graham cracker, with chalky, crushed oyster shell elements, too. On the palate, zesty acid frames the wine well, a racy yet creamy mouthfeel with orange peel and yellow apple fruit. Complex notes of chamomile, salted almond, honeycomb, with oyster shell and chalk dust. Pristine, crisp finish, deep yet salty. This should age wonderfully. Aged 11 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Tilia Wines from Argentina are Still Delivering

The first time I tried wines from Tilia, it was in 2007, just a year after the winery was founded. Back then, I was relatively new to wine appreciation, and methodically tasting wines, region by region, from all of the countries available to me. But value was essential. And I found that these Tilia wines offered deliciousness and balance that outperformed a lot of similarly-priced wines I was tasting from California, Australia or South Africa.

Things have now come full circle, and here I am tasting and reviewing their 2020 offerings. These wines are all $11 suggested retail, and brought in this summer by Winebow. At that price point, some may be skeptical – but the quality in here is serious. Based in Junin, Mendoza, the wines are sourced from around Mendoza made by Gonzalo Llensa.

I’m of the opinion that these wines are solid across the board. I think they offer a lot for those who are newer to wine and eager to try new things, without spending much. They could also be a hit on a by-the-glass list.

The labels are tasteful and sport their sustainability efforts and certification — and I think all of this combines to make them an attractive entry-level brand to a wide audience. After all these years, it’s refreshing to see Tilia still delivering.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Tilia Chardonnay – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light yellow color. Juicy nose of yellow plums, lemons, with honey, sea salt and some raw almond. Crisp and zesty on the palate but some nice round texture. Yellow apples and lemon fruit, with honeyed, floral perfume tones. Ripe and fun but it stays so lively throughout. I’m just impressed with the balanced and depth of a Chardonnay at this price point. (87 points)

2020 Tilia Torrontés – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Medium straw color. A nice peachy nose with kiwi and lychee nectar, and bountiful notes of dandelions and honey. Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity, and a juicy combo of peaches, lychee and papaya. Notes of honey, floral perfume, some cool celery seed, lemongrass and even some flinty, mineral tones. Really fun, summery stuff that shows a good amount of complexity. (87 points)

2020 Tilia Malbec – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Medium purple color. Aromas of jammy raspberries and red plums, with some coffee, vanilla and rose potpourri tones. On the palate, this is smooth and silky with lightly chewy tannins and medium acidity. Blueberry and raspberry fruit, juicy and suave, blends with cola, clove and some earthy, espresso tones. Fun, fresh, interesting stuff. All Malbec, all stainless steel. (88 points)

2020 Tilia Cabernet Sauvignon – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light purple color. Smells of ripe red currants, some blueberries, with mocha, tobacco, elements of cedar and vanilla. Smooth and fresh on the palate with an easy-drinking tannic appeal and medium acidity. Straightforward but fun with blueberries and black cherries, with tones of spiced tea, tobacco and mint. Balanced, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points)

2020 Tilia Merlot – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Deep ruby color. Nose sports red currants and red plums with fun tones of rose and violet petals, with coffee and clove. Medium-bodied, with smooth tannins and moderate acidity. Raspberry and red cherry fruit blends well with these roasted red pepper and paprika tones, rose petals. Just fun, fresh, bright feel. Another great value here. (88 points)

2020 Tilia Bonarda – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Bright purple color. The nose boasts blueberries and blackberries with a nice mix of smoky, campfire tones, earthy, charcoal elements, tobacco and cedar. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins and refreshing acidity – everything is right down the middle. Black cherries and blueberry fruit blends well with graphite, tobacco and violets. Drink now with some grilled meat and veg kebabs – impressive. All Bonarda in stainless steel. (87 points)

2020 Tilia Malbec – Syrah – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Bright purple. A juicy nose with black cherries and blueberries, along with some pepper, smoky earth, violet petals. Fresh and bright on the palate with dusty tannins, an accessible feel with juicy black cherry fruit. Notes of pepper, potting soil, some violet and rose petal potpourri. A crowd-friendly wine that shows a lot of balance and complexity at this price point. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

This week, I have a handful of new wines from all over California worth getting excited about.

I’m a big fan of the dynamic wine scene in Paso Robles, so I was delighted to taste three new-to-me wines and chat about Paso with the winemakers over a Zoom meeting. They focused on the region’s well-known calcareous soils, and each winemaker (from Linne Calodo, Caliza and the aptly-named Calcareous Vineyard) spoke about the importance of these soils in their wines. The three wines I tasted are good examples of how that ancient ocean bed soil can result in some exciting wines.

Some value Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Nielson in Santa Barbara County also make an appearance, and a cool Chenin Blanc. Lastly, La Pelle’s new offerings continue to show why they are worth watching.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Caliza Winery “Sidekick” – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $36
Rich yellow color. Aromas of rich apricots and baked apple, with tones of honey, graham cracker, with notes of flowers, honey and even some fresh chanterelles. The fresh acidity is really nice, surprisingly so, and it balances that classic, creamy texture. Flavors of apricot, baked apples and pineapple, rich fruit but it stays surprisingly fresh with tones of yellow flowers and honey, almond, white tea. Delicious, focused stuff. 90% Roussanne and 10% Viognier, aged in French oak. (90 points)

2020 Aperture Chenin Blanc – USA, California, North Coast
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. The nose pops with lemon, quince and yellow flowers, with interesting spicy, herbal, white floral elements. Crisp acidity, punchy texture, a citrus-infused delight with chalky, oceanic, crushed shell tones, with some white tea and minerals. Bright and fun but a lot of complexity, too. From a Clarksburg vineyard, this is aged six months on the lees in used French oak and stainless steel. (90 points)

2019 Nielson Chardonnay – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Aromas show apricots and lemon drops with lemon verbena, light butter, some bright, sudsy, floral tones. Crisp but flesh on the medium-bodied palate with lemons and peaches, bright but not light on the flavor. Lemon drops and honey mix with some almond and some brighter floral tones. Approachable, fun, yummy, value-driven stuff. Aged eight months in French oak, stainless steel and concrete eggs. (87 points)

2019 La Pelle Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Pale straw color. Wow, the nose pops with limes, kiwi and papaya, topped in floral perfume, daisies, lemongrass and sea salt. Pure and vibrant on the palate with a racy, stony presence and deep texture. Lemons, white peach and orange peel, crunchy fruit mixes well with stony, oyster shell and mineral tones, and elements of flowers and honey. This is nervy, vibrant and balanced Sauvignon Blanc, with a salty finish. A whole lot to ponder and enjoy in here, and it will reward patience in the cellar, too. (93 points)

Red Wines

2018 Nielson Pinot Noir – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. Juicy strawberries and red cherries are met with rhubarb, rose petals and some cola. Fleshy, juicy strawberries meet with light tannins and vibrant acidity. Cherry rhubarb pie flavors mix with white pepper, black tea some oregano. Fun and fresh despite the juicy fruit, this has a smooth, accessible feel but shows solid complexity for the price as well. Aged 12 months in French oak. (87 points)

2018 Calcareous Vineyard “Lloyd” – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $65
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows a whole lot of spicy, earthy, savory tones, with mesquite and leather over top of cherries and lively currants, cocoa and anise. Full-bodied but so fresh and lively, it maintains a tanginess that is refreshing throughout. All sorts of plums and currants, the fruit deep but crunchy and mixed with complex tones of grilled herbs, black tea, black pepper, sage and leather. Highly delicious, but has lots of tricks up its sleeve and needs age, too. An estate blend of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

2018 Linne Calodo “Overthinker” – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District
SRP: $95
Light purple color. Ooh, the nose shows deep cherries and currants with enticing notes of leather, mesquite, violet petals, black pepper and black tea. Full-bodied but moderated well by the acidity, and the tart plums and black cherries are deep but crunchy. Complex iron, meat, graphite and creosote tones add complexity. This really needs time to open up and show its floral, meaty and earthy tones. Give this a decant or a few years, but it’s exquisite. 55% Syrah, 38% Grenache and 7% Mourvedre. (92 points)

2019 La Pelle Cabernet Sauvignon ­- USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $80
Deep purple color. On the nose, it’s exciting the way the roasted red peppers, sage, tobacco and earth tones mix with tart currants and black cherries, with coffee and dark chocolate tones. Structured well with a solid backbone and vibrant acidity to support the tangy black currant fruit. Complex tones of roasted red peppers, savory spices, tobacco and earth, and elements of coffee and clove. There is a ton going on here, and it maintains a fresh, earthy, flinty mystique. This will do wonders in five or six years, but it’s impressive how balanced it is so young, too. Includes 2% Petit Verdot aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Chile & Argentina

It’s been a while since I’ve delved into some wines from Chile and Argentina, so I’m excited to share some new offerings.

Three reds from Argentina make an appearance in this report, and the Mascota Vineyards Unanime brand show juicy, lively styles that are great for a slight chill on a warm evening.

Most of the wines in this report hail from Chile, and these producers are also touting their sustainability efforts. Koyle is a biodynamic producer that gets 40% of its power supply from solar panels. And Emiliana is one of the largest organic and biodynamic producers in the world. What I love is how some of these producers are able to utilize these methods and produce delicious, interesting wines at super reasonable price points.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Trapiche Cabernet Sauvignon Medalla - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Vibrant but deep nose of black cherries and raspberries with rose petals, clove, cigar shop and sweet cocoa. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, lively acidity. Tart blueberry meets juicy black cherries, and the fruit is topped in notes of mocha, tobacco, mint, rose petals. Nice earthy and tar tones, too. All Cabernet from estate vineyards, aged 18 months in French oak. (88 points)

2017 Mascota Vineyards Pinot Noir Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. Smells of bright blueberries and black cherries, tossed with leather, tobacco, notes of iron, graphite and dusty earth. Structured well with round-edged tannins and vibrant acidity. Darker style but still fresh, with tangy black cherry fruit, which plays well of notes of potting soil, charcoal, graphite, leather, clay. A lot of complexity packed in here, and it gets more and more expressive with air. A Pinot Noir with this level of balance and depth at this price point is impressive, and from Argentina, no less. Aged 12 months in French oak. (89 points)

2017 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with ripe plums and black cherries, deep fruit with notes of smoky earth, anise, warm fallen leaves, some vanilla, too. Medium-bodied, velvety smooth tannic structure, crisp acidity. A juicy but pleasant feel to the fruit (black cherries and figs), along with fallen leaves, cola, earth and some vanilla. Ripe but nuanced, this has a lot to offer. Aged a year in French oak. (89 points)

2019 Viu Manent Malbec Secreto - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Ooh, the nose cranks with spice (sage, pepper, grilled steak) along with plums and juicy black cherries. Medium-bodied on the palate, delightful acidity with smooth tannins. Tart currants and chew plums blend well with a host of pepper, charcoal-grilled meat and violet petals. There’s a nice depth of texture with lots of spicy and earthy complexity. I was shocked to see this price point. Includes a “secret” blend of 15% other grapes. (89 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva “Serie Riberas” Palo Santo Vineyard - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley, Marchigüe
SRP: $17
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of tart plums and currants, laced with oregano and mint, along with leather, campfire, dark chocolate shavings and some graphite. Full-bodied with nice grip and moderate acidity. Tart plums and rich blackberry fruit blends well with lots of delicious, spicy tones of bell pepper, sage and coffee. Notes of tar, graphite and vanilla add complexity. Rich but savory, nice and lively, this could even age. Really good stuff for the price. Includes some 5% combined Carmenere and Syrah, aged 10 months in 21% new French oak. (89 points)

2019 Viña Tarapacá Gran Reserva Organic Red Blend - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Nose pops with sweet plums and currants, cocoa, tossed with coffee, anise and spicy black tea. Jammy and rich on the palate with medium acidity and smooth tannins. Flavors of plum sauce and currant jam are whipped together with spicy pepper, mint, charcoal and violet petal and earth tones. Fun, accessible, grill-friendly wine that has a ripe appeal but also spicy, floral complexity. 31% Cabernet Franc, 26% Syrah, 22% Carmenere, 11% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 20% new French oak. (87 points)

2018 Viña Maquis Cabernet Franc Gran Reserva - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $24
Deep ruby color. Ripe but tangy fruit on the nose (black cherries, plums) along with lots of spicy pepper, paprika, black tea, warm clay, violets – really inviting and complex. Medium-bodied, nice dusty tannic grip, fresh acidity – the balance is lovely. Tart plums and juicy red and black currants, suave and tangy, and this has a delightfully spicy mix of pepper, coffee grounds, tar, violets, roasted red peppers and potting soil. Seriously complex and vivacious, this is a gorgeous Cabernet Franc for an awesome price. Aged one year in French oak. (91 points)

2018 Viñedos Emiliana Coyam - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $35
Deep purple color. The nose shows deep plums and blackberries along with smoky earth, graphite, warm rocks, sweet pipe tobacco and some smoked meat tones. Deep and suave on the palate with nice grip and vibrant acidity – so fresh. Tart currants and black cherry fruit, laced well with earth, iron, minerals, spicy pepper and pepperoni tones. Complex, deep but fresh, this is beautiful and should improve nicely over the next 42% Syrah, 39% Carmenere with Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Malbec, Carignan, Tempranillo and Mourvedre. (90 points)

2019 Viña Koyle Carménère Gran Reserva ­ Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $17
Deep ruby color. The nose is ripe and spicy with cherries and blackberries, mixed nicely with tar, chewing tobacco, freshly-paved road, and some cool soy and roasted red pepper tones. Crisp acidity frames this wine nicely, a dusty tannic feel, this is fresh and fun with cherries, raspberries and red plums, a tangy and bright approach with the fruit. Notes of black pepper, clove, dried rose petals, black tea and scorched earth adds complexity. Fun but complex and balanced wonderfully, this is a brisket-friendly Carmenere with 10% Tempranillo and 5% Petit Verdot, aged 14 months in French oak. (90 points)

2019 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon 1865 Selected Vineyards - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Lovely nose of black currants and blackberries, with tobacco, violets, warm clay, some vanilla and cedar. Silky tannins on the palate with vibrant acidity and a nicely balanced feel. Tart currants and smoky black cherries are woven together with anise, loamy earth, tobacco, with some dark chocolate shavings and coffee. Accessible and fun, but sports solid complexity for the price point as well. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thrilling Pinot and Chardonnay from Merry Edwards & Alma Fria

This week, I’m highlighting two Sonoma County producers who bring me joy. I, for one, could use a bit of joy these days. I’ve been a fan of both of these producers for a while now, and I was excited to revisit them through the new releases. While tasting, I was comforted but just how reliably delicious and honest these wines are.

Merry Edwards has always had my respect, from Merry’s groundbreaking spot in Sonoma wine history, to the fact that the wines continue to deliver, vintage-in, vintage-out. With winemaker Heidi von der Mehden at the helm, this slew of 2019 Pinot Noirs continues the winery’s strong legacy.

I’ve been following Alma Fria since their 2013 vintage, and found these wines to be consistently exciting. If you’re a fan of lower alcohol Pinots and Chardonnays, with more citrus on the Chard side and tangy red fruit on the Pinot side, you should really check these out. The single-vineyard Pinots, like the Doña Margarita Vineyard near Freestone and the Holtermann Vineyard near Annapolis, deserve some cellar time, or plenty of air to strut their stuff. Winemaker Carroll Kemp really rocks it with the entry-level Plural wines, which have some sourced fruit and serve as are a great introduction to the producer’s style. They’re honestly some of the most delicious and bang-for-the-buck Pinots and Chards I find from California.

These wines were received as samples, and the Merry Edwards Pinot Noirs were tasted single-blind, while the others were tasted sighted.

2018 Alma Fría Chardonnay Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. The aromas pop with lemon curd, orange peel, and a vibrant mix of sea salt, hay, flinty and mineral elements, and some almond skin and honey. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy with lovely texture, a perfect amount of salinity and oyster shell elements that carries this wine. Lemons for days with some apricot and white peach, tossed together with chalk dust, honeyed tea, such verve and depth here, especially when you consider the price. Complex and delicious stuff here, a Chardonnay for Chenin fans. (93 points)

2018 Alma Fría Chardonnay Campbell Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Aromas are fresh and citrusy, with lemon curd and sliced pineapple mixed with these chalky, yellow floral tones. Pristine and fresh on the palate, with a nice balance between textural depth and salty, brisk vibes. Lemons and kiwi blend well with nuances of salted pecan, honey, minerals and chalk dusty. Pure, vibrant, nuanced Sonoma Coast Chardonnay here. (93 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Vibrant aromas of cherries, strawberries and red plums, along with rose petals, warm clay, some oregano and mint. Medium-bodied, silky tannins on the palate, with lively acidity. Ripe but fresh tones of strawberries, McIntosh apple and wild raspberries, tossed together with notes of clove, cinnamon, rose petals. Nice spicy tones round out the finish. Such a balanced and nuanced wine, with complexity that rocks at this price point. (92 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Holtermann Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $70
Bright ruby color. Such enticing aromas, spicy, airy, elegant, with raspberries and red apple peel, along with rhubarb, white pepper, tobacco and rose hips. On the palate, this Pinot is so silky and elegant, with a medium-bodied frame and crisp, focused acidity. Plush but tangy fruit (raspberries, strawberries, cherry), topped in complexities of rhubarb, white pepper, tobacco. With air these underlying notes of wet clay, mushroom and potting soil really start to shine. This is complex, nuanced, vibrant stuff. This vineyard is home to some very special grapes, and Alma Fria makes a beauty of a wine from them. (94 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Doña Margarita Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $70
Bright ruby color. Such an airy, floral, inviting display on the nose, with rose petals, rhubarb, some oregano and white pepper, over top of raspberries, pomegranate and red apple. Expressive and invigorating, which transitions onto the palate, which is crisp and vibrant with dusty tannins. Raspberries and tangy red plum fruit blends well with complex notes of dried roses, white pepper, warm desert rocks and oregano. This stuff is balanced and age-worthy, or give it plenty of air and watch it evolve and pop. (94 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Pale lemon color. Gorgeous fruit on the nose (grapefruit, kiwi, green apple), topped in chalk dust, fresh mountain stream, and complex elements of honeysuckle, mint and sage. Zippy acidity frames the wine so well, balanced with deep texture, and plenty of salty, minerals, mountain stream tones. The lime, kiwi and ruby red grapefruit is juicy but tangy, and it all works well over these floral perfume, white pepper, cucumber slices, honey and chalk dust. I’ve tasted this wine a lot over the years, and there’s something about this vintage. Phenomenal stuff. This spends four months on the lees and is aged in French oak, 18% new. (95 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $60
Medium ruby color. So fresh and juicy on the nose with red plums and wild raspberry, over top of rhubarb, cola, violets, some nuanced cedar and sarsaparilla. Full but fresh with smooth tannins, a pleasantly chewy but vibrant feel with black cherries and raspberry jam fruit. Violets, rhubarb, white pepper, along with some earthy, dusty tones and herbal tea, add complexity to this juicy, fun Pinot. Aged nine months in 55% new French oak. (91 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $73
Deep ruby color. On the nose, this shows a nice mix of deep black cherries, ripe summer plums, cranberry relish, along with light roast coffee and herbal tea component, with savory spices mixed in, too. Medium/full-bodied with smooth tannins and vibrant, fresh acidity. Tangy blackberries, plums and cherries, darker, deeper fruit, but it maintains a tart edge. Roasted chestnut, toffee, violets, cigar box and some mineral undertones elevate the finish. Definitely one to cellar for at least a few years. Aged 10 months in 68% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $73
A solid core of ruby. The aromas are so fresh, with ripe cherries, pomegranate, strawberry, backed up by pepper, roses, warm clay, rhubarb, and a lot of floral depth with air. On the palate, this is silky but structured, with zesty acid, great balance, and a deep but tangy mix of cherry, pomegranate and raspberry fruit. Elements of thyme, pepper, dried rose petals, clove, dusty earth. The mouthfeel is fantastic, but this needs at least a few years to show its best. Aged nine months in 69% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Light ruby color. A bright and elegant display on the nose of raspberries and red apple peel, rose petals, violets, with some cola, herbal tea and light roast coffee. Velvety, fresh and crisp on the palate, with delightful balance. The raspberry and chilled cherry fruit is delicious and fresh, mixed with notes of oregano, black tea, some clay and mushroom tones. Really exciting stuff that should do well with a few years in the cellar. Aged 10 months in 54% new French oak. (93 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Deep ruby color. A warm aromatic compote of raspberries, cherries and cranberry relish, along with notes of warm clay, violets, some wild herbs and creosote tones – really nice. Full-bodied, solid structure but rounded tannic edges, deep but balanced with vibrant acidity. Suave plum, strawberry and cherry fruit play well off these notes of sage, paprika, pepper – a ton going on here. Broth, mushroom tones need time to come out. This needs time, but it is so, so good. Aged nine months in 83% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

American Wines for the Fourth of July

Happy Fourth of July to all the American readers out there. As has grown to be my custom, I take this time to highlight some recent American wines that came across the sample pile. And I have a fun, diverse group today.

I’ve long been a fan (and something of an evangelist) for Arizona wines. I can’t help myself, I love it out there, and there are some really cool people making really fun wines. Aridus, based in one of my favorite areas of Cochise County, is a good intro into AZ wines, and are more widely available than most.

From Oregon, Applegate Valley’s biodynamic stalwart Troon Vineyards delivers three summery, spritzy, crushable wines. They’re always experimenting, and I respect that.

And, of course, California wines make appearances. Ashes & Diamonds 2020 pink is about as complex and impressive a California rosé I’ve come across in a long time. A case buy kind of wine. Howell Mountain Cabernet comes out to show why this appellation is so excellent, and a few other legit Cab-based wines round out the mix.

Lastly, from Virginia, Monticello-based producer Stinson continues to deliver with their Tannat-based pink, and a Merlot and Meritage definitely worth checking out if you’re interested in Virginia wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Black Kite Cellars' Exciting Chardonnays and Pinots

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir likely needs no introduction here. This Mendocino appellation is packed with well-known vineyards and producers, making quite a wide array of styles.

Among them, Black Kite Cellars has an impressive portfolio. Kicked off in 2003, Black Kite Cellars is the product of Rebecca and Tom Birdsall, and co-founded by Rebecca’s parents, Donald and Maureen Green. They bought the site that would become Kite’s Rest in 1995, and it was replanted to Pinot Noir in 1999. Divided into several blocks, the 40-acre parcel rises up from the Navarro River (River Turn), through gravelly loam (Stony Terrace), and up to the edge of the forest (Redwood’s Edge). The wines are made by Jeff Gaffner, formerly of Arrowood, who also has his own label, Saxon Brown.

They produce five different Pinot Noirs from their estate Kite’s Rest vineyard (their “home” Pinots), in addition to some “away” Pinot Noirs from other sites. The Pinot Noirs offers a great look into the differences between these sites. And their Chardonnays, sourced from some epic Sonoma sites, are delightful. Two are featured today.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

California Wines for Summertime

It’s not officially summer in the Northern Hemisphere yet, but it sure does feel like it. Personally, I don’t handle any sort of heat and humidity well, unless I’m a stone’s throw from a beach or pool. So now that it’s regularly hitting 90+ degrees in DC, I won’t be popping too many red wines.

This Spring, I’ve received a lot of California wines that would do well to beat the heat, and I’ve compiled some white and pink wines that deliver. Smith-Madrone’s Spring Mountain Riesling does it again; it is consistently one of the most exciting California Rieslings I’ve come across. FEL represents Anderson Valley well with their three offerings, while Sonoma’s Notre Vue is a that’s putting out some exciting stuff.

Some eye-opening Sauvignon Blancs, a delicious Grenache Blanc and a few others round out this solid mix. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Smith-Madrone Riesling – USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $34
Light yellow color. Aromas of gorgeous limes, orange peels, exquisite fruit mixed with white flowers, new tennis balls, wild mint, with chalky and saline tones. Pristine acidity, zesty, a chalky and salty appeal with white flowers, white pepper and wild green onion tones. Lime, orange and kiwi fruit provide generous support for this intense but refined wine. Perfume, focused, dry yet ripe, this is complex and age-worthy, and a consistently spectacular California Riesling. (94 points)

2019 Priest Ranch Grenache Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $22
Pale straw color. Wow, so bright on the nose, with lemon, lime and kiwi fruit, topped with seashells, oyster brine, chalk and notes of green olive. Racy on the palate but lovely depth of texture, with bright acidity and an essence that reminds me of mountain streams meeting crashing ocean waves. Limes, kiwi and pineapple fruit mix with tones of sea salt, orange peel, white tea and oyster shell. Really exciting stuff, expressive, vibrant, complex, and absurdly good for the price. Stainless steel fermentation, native yeasts, aged on the lees for eight months. (91 points)

2019 Grieve Family Winery Double Eagle – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Pale lemon color. Aromas of limes, papaya, topped in honeysuckle, daisies, wild mint and fresh basil – really vibrant and bright. Crisp and delightful texture, with limes, peach and papaya fruit on the palate. Complex notes of salt, chalk dust, ocean spray, with bright floral and white tea tones. Deep but lively, focused but lots of complexity, and a racy, mineral-laden finish. All Sauvignon Blanc Aged sur lie in a mix of concrete eggs and French oak. (91 points)

2017 Castello di Amorosa Spumante Brut – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $39
Deep yellow color. Perfume and bright on the nose with chalk dusty, white flowers, celery seed, over top of limes, kiwi and red apple peel. Bright and zesty on the palate, this is a clear and focused sparkler with limes, lemons and green and red apple fruit. Flinty and steely with floral perfume, chalk dust, saline and some spicy herbal tones. A brunch and seafood-friendly wine. A mix of 73% Chardonnay and 27% Pinot Noir. (88 points)

2019 Cormorant Cellars Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $24
Deep yellow color. A natural but focused aromatic display of preserved lemon, melon rind, with honey, clover, white pepper, and interesting notes of tobacco barn and dried green herbs. Crisp acidity on a deeply-textured frame, with a mouthfeel that combines a bit of waxiness with some brininess, lots of mineral and saline tones. Orange peel and dried pineapple fruit mix with nots of green olive, oregano and mint. Equally fascinating and delicious. This grapes are sourced from the Gio Martorana Vineyard, fermented in stainless steel and French oak, no fining, filtering, minimal SO2, this is as clear, focused and exciting a Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc at this price point I’ve come across in a long time. (91 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Light yellow color. The aromas pop with zesty lime and generous white peach, topped in notes of honeysuckle, celery seed and sea salt. Crisp and nervy on the palate, this has a pretty, pure and mountain stream kind of feel, with limes, lemons and white peach. Focused and clear with notes of hay, lilies, floral perfume, with notes of minerals, crushed shells and limestone. A lean but lively Sauvignon Blanc that brings a lot to the table. Aged five months in a mix of oak (10% new, 80% neutral) and stainless steel. (89 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Pinot Blanc – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemons and kiwi, so fresh and also so floral, with daisies, honeysuckle, clover and clean laundry. Racy acidity frames the wine well, lovely texture. Flavors of lemons, green apple and orange peel on the palate, this is spritely and vibrant, with notes of minerals, sea spray, chalk, along with freshly-cut rose stems, sliced cucumber and oregano. Great hot weather wine, but complex as well, and so versatile. Aged five months in all neutral barrels. (90 points)

2018 Bouchaine Chardonnay Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. The nose shows nutty and honeyed elements, with yellow apples and lemon curd, along with some almond and white tea. Plump texture on the palate, moderating acidity, this wine sports apricot and orange marmalade fruit mixed with elements of honey, graham cracker, cinnamon sticks, with some hay and salted almond tones. Ripe and delicious, but stays focused, too. Aged 10 months in 85% oak, 15% new, 50% maloactic fermentation. (89 points)

2019 Notre Vue Chardonnay – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $49
Medium yellow color. The nose shows yellow apples and apricot and orange peel, mixed with honey, crushed shells, pistachio and honey. Precise acidity keeps this lip-smacking, while the deep texture offers creaminess and juiciness. Yellow apple, apricot and lemon curd fruit is lively and ripe, and tossed together well with notes of candied ginger, honeycomb, peanut shell, along with mountain stream, minerals and chalk. Nuanced and balanced, highly delicious. (91 points)

2018 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Medium yellow color. Aromas of oranges, yellow apples, lemon curd, with notes of honey, almond, with vanilla, also white tea and dandelion notes. Medium-plus-bodied with gorgeous texture, balanced with vibrant acidity. The fruit is like a mix of orange peel, kiwi and lemon curd, blended with richer notes of graham cracker, vanilla and nougat, but also this brisk, mineral-infused feel. Bold but vibrant, with this nuanced and fresh approach. For the price especially, yeah, this rocks. (92 points)

2020 FEL Pinot Gris – USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. So peachy and fresh, like an open field of spring wildflowers and an herb garden of goodness over top lemon and orange peel. Zippy acidity, nice texture, this is focused and balanced on the palate with oranges, peaches and limes. Accents of white tea, clover, fresh laundry and honey add complexity. Lively, bright, spritely but complex stuff. Fermented in a 900-gallan French oak tank and aged five months on the lees. (90 points)

2019 FEL Chardonnay Anderson Valley ­- USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Ripe yellow color. Fresh and floral on the nose, a nice mix of airy tones with deeper, honeyed, almond tones, over ripe yellow pears. Crisp acidity is a pleasure on the palate, with a moderately rich texture, and a chalky but honeyed balance. Lemon curd and apricot mix with honeycomb and light graham cracker mixed with crushed chalk and mineral tones. Harmonious, complex, a blend of some Anderson Valley vineyards, fermented in neutral oak and aged on the lees for ten months. (90 points)

Rosé wines

2019 Notre Vue Sparkling Rosé of GSM – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $45
Medium copper color. Aromas of white cherries and wild raspberries, along with chalk dust, sea salt and some spicy green herbs. Crisp and zesty but nice depth, too. Tangy white cherries and wild raspberries, tangy red apple peel. Aromas of sea shells, talc and minerals with some saltine crackers. Brisk and bright but solid complexity. 52% Syrah, 32% Grenache and 16% Mourvedre. (89 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Rosé – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $38
Medium pink color. A lovely brightness on the nose, with a nice mix of raspberries, white cherries, McIntosh apple skins, along with saline, hay, sliced cucumber and lemon verbena. Fresh and crisp on the palate, but this shows solid textural depth as well on a plump but racy frame. Wild raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit mix well with complexities of dandelion, nettle, floral perfume. Solid complex, really vibrant, with a complex mineral-laden finish. 61% Grenache, 30% Pinot Noir and 9% Syrah, fermented five months sur lie in neutral oak barrels. (90 points)

2019 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir Rosato Cresta d’Oro – USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $39
Pale salmon color. Aromas of lemons and white cherries, and a field of daisies edged in honeysuckle mixed in, with some celery seed and mint, too. Fresh and vibrant acidity with a plush texture and flavors of white cherries, wild raspberries and McIntosh apple, juicy but crunchy fruit. White flowers, rose petals, a brisk, quinine and mineral essence, too. Very pretty, floral and focused. All Pinot Noir, dry, fermented and aged in concrete eggs. (91 points)

2020 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $29
Pale copper color. The aromas show salty, floral goodness, with yellow and white flowers overtop of peaches, green melon and cantaloupe. Zesty on the palate with a nice, round, creamy texture. Punchy but racy feel with plump raspberry and strawberry meeting tart white cherry. Notes of lemongrass, honeysuckle, chalk, and minerals add complexity. Nice cut, quite complex, delicious summer pink. All estate Pinot Noir from Napa’s southern portion of Carneros, 95% whole cluster pressed, all stainless steel. (89 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.