The Applegate Valley in Southern Oregon seems like a wonderful place. A traditional orchard fruit growing zone with a long winemaking history, this area received its American Viticultural Area designation (AVA) in 2000, and it is a sub-appellation within the Rogue Valley. Today there are some 700 acres under vine, and the area’s climate provides warn sunny days and cold nights. The Kubli Bench zone offers diverse, well-drained soils. And the winemakers that call this place home seem set on creating unique, pure wines.
I’ve been tasting (and really enjoying) wines from Troon Vineyard since 2017, and their wines continue to impress. This producer is always trying new things, new blends, new styles, and evolving with the times while staying true to their biodynamic farming and winemaking style. The amphorae-aged offerings in this report show how they continue to seek out exciting wines for a new generation of consumers.
Schmidt Family Vineyards is a neighbor of Troon’s, and this is my first foray into their wines. Owned by Cal and Judy Schmidt, this Kubli Bench winery planted its first estate vines in 2001, and their first vintage was 2004. They’ve since grown to about 5,500 cases per year, and boast a nice mix of varietals. I was excited to review a diverse lineup of their wines, and found a lot of personality and value from this producer.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Rolle - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Light yellow color. The nose is salty and chalky and bright with tones of lemon and quince, green apples, with some wild, spicy elements and celery seed. The palate sports creamy texture, lovely depth, but prickly acidity, and the balance is focused and on-point. Perfumed and spicy tones mix well with the peach, lemon and green apple fruit. There’s almost an austerity here, a bit of Mezcal-esque feel, but it’s also so deeply textured and bold, everything is working really well. Exciting, fun stuff, it offers deliciousness but a ton to ponder as well. Foot-trodden, natural yeasts, aged in amphorae – this is a special wine, an homage to Corsica, and another example of Troon’s endless spirit of adventure. (92 points)
2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Pale copper color. Beautiful nose of zesty lemons, green apples and papaya, along with chalk dust, white flowers, green olives, some talc. The palate is precise and deeply textured, with bright lemons and green apple flavors. The notes of quinine, talc and crushed limestone add all sorts of complexity. Notes of wildflowers, wild green herbs and green olives add a lot to contemplate. For the fans of zippy and adventurous wines, but this is also highly delicious and crushable. Well done, Troon. Skin-fermented Vermentino aged in amphorae for 11 months. (92 points)
2020 Schmidt Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. The nose is vibrant and zesty, with lemons and white peaches, along with honeysuckle, celery seed and saline tones. The palate is crisp and nervy with bright acidity and juicy white peach fruit, laced with lemons and limes. Notes of perfume, sea salt, celery seed, along with mint and sliced green bell pepper. Lovely style, fun and bright but shows solid complexity. Wow, lots of value. Six months in stainless steel. (88 points)
2018 Schmidt Family Vineyards Albariño - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. Peachy keen on the nose with lemons and yellow apples, along with honey and white flowers. Creamy yet zippy on the palate with peaches, yellow apples and lime zest, along with white flowers, sea salt and some fresh oregano tones. Lovely balance and brightness, surprisingly focused and clear. A lot to enjoy in here. Six months in stainless steel. (89 points)
2018 Schmidt Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep ruby color. Juicy raspberries and strawberries on the nose, with rose petals, white pepper and rhubarb, with some tobacco tones. Fresh acidity and chewy tannins along with smooth, vibrant black cherries and spiced cranberry relish flavors. I enjoy the clay, roasted red pepper and savory, brothy tones herein, and it’s woven in well to this spicy, fun, vibrant appeal. A $20 Pinot that has this kind of “real” feel? Good luck finding one from California. 23 months in barrel, 10% new. (89 points)
2017 Schmidt Family Vineyards Merlot - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep ruby color. The nose shows an interesting mix of smoky, meaty, beefy, peppery tones, over top of stewed cherries and cranberry sauce. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, lively acidity, with cherries and plums, nicely balanced. Fun but complex with peppery, earthy, clay tones – a lot of right bank vibes here, and solid value. Aged 23 months in barrel, 20% new. (90 points)
2016 Schmidt Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. I get saucy plums and sweet blueberries on the nose, along with barbecue sauce, pepper, tobacco, violet petals and mint – a lot to unpack. Fresh acidity keeps it all together, softened tannins but still structured well. Nicely-aged fruit, a compote of blueberries and black cherries, still lively, with a complex mix of mesquite, pine, tobacco and savory, spicy elements. Decant this one, lots of sediment, but this is really interesting and has a lot of personality. 13.7% alcohol, 23 months in 30% new French oak. (88 points)
2016 Schmidt Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Vibrant purple color. Smells of tangy blueberries and tart black cherries, a deep core of tangy fruit, aced with violet petals, tobacco, anise and black pepper. Such vibrant acidity, deep, structured tannins, lovely balance. Tart blueberries and black cherries, the fruit is so lively, and mixed well with tones of warm clay, tar, tilled soil, black pepper and clove. This is really unique and seems like it will age wonderfully for quite a while. Such a pretty, spicy Tempranillo, aged 23 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)
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