I had mixed feelings when I recently opened two Dirty and Rowdy wines. I’ve long loved this producer’s wines, and have found their different Mourvedres to be some of the most fascinating reds from anywhere in California.
Usually, it’s with pure stoke and joy that I crack open a D&R bottle, preferably to blind some friends on one during a gathering. But, now that this winery has dissolved, there was some longing as I sniffed the bright red fruits. Their wines made quite a splash when they first started, and they have grown a loyal fanbase over the years with their bright, low-intervention wines and whimsical, fun outlook.
In September, Hardy Wallace announced that he and winery co-founder Matt Richardson had come to an “amicable” agreement to dissolve the Napa-based brand. I was saddened to hear this, as I was looking forward to stocking my cellar with more of their delicious vino. Luckily, the news wasn’t all bad, as Hardy and his wife Kate Graham announced they were starting a new venture: Extradimensional Wine Co. I have yet to taste these wines, but they seem like a worthy successor project (like Tryptikon is to Celtic Frost, if that makes sense to a random metalhead, wine-loving reader).
Below are my notes on two exceptional Dirty and Rowdy wines, my last from their mailing list. I hope to open some more D&R wines before the stock diminishes all over, and look forward to Hardy and Kate’s new project as well.
2018 Dirty
and Rowdy Mourvèdre 'ESPECIAL' Rodnick Farm - USA,
California, Central Coast, Chalone
$35
I don’t usually
think of “elegance” as a term applicable to Mourvedre, but it sure is to this
one. So floral, airy, delightful on the nose with juicy red cherries and bright
pomegranate. Notes of pepper, lavender, mesquite and rose hips add complexity.
Medium-bodied, the mouthfeel is gorgeous, a combination of brisk acidity and
dusty tannins supporting bright cherry and tangy strawberry fruit. A racy feel,
so floral and perfumed, with complexities of tar, black tea, beef drippings,
mushrooms. Refined and pretty, but this should continue to deal out goodness
for a while, although it’s drinking really great now. (92 points)
2019 Dirty
and Rowdy Mourvèdre Shake Ridge Ranch - USA, California,
Sierra Foothills, Amador County
$60
The nose here
is something else: the freshest raspberries and strawberries, mixed with tones
of spicy red pepper, black pepper, white pepper, rose petals, cherry blossoms, even
some orange peel, along with anise and sage – wow. Structured well with dusty,
mid-strength tannins and crisp acidity, with tart currant and raspberry – so tangy
and alive. Roses, paprika, clay, black pepper, minerals and graphite, this has
so much going on for it. The mouthfeel is perfectly balanced. I’d love to see
this in three or four years, as this got so much better on day two. (94 points)
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