I’ve tasted a few dozen wines from Uruguay before, and enjoyed them. I also appreciate, and seek out, wines from lesser-known regions. Uruguay is no newb to winemaking – the first winery dates back to the 1850s. And unlike other South American wine regions whose terroirs are defined by the Andes Mountains or Pacific Ocean, Uruguay wines hail from the Atlantic Coast-influenced areas near the capital of Montevideo. These days, wineries number about 180, most of which are family-owned. There’s something like 15,000 acres under vine, and most of the grapes are harvested by hand.
I recently dug into a bunch of wines from this hidden South American gem, and I found a lot to love. Uruguay is ripe for wine enthusiast exploration, with plenty of producers and appellations to discover, and reasonable price points that making taking a chance worthwhile.
Tannat is a big player here, and I think that’s great. Yes, it can be big and burly, but even as a varietal wine, Uruguayan producers seem to have this grape dialed in. You get that dark core of fruit and structured tannins, but these wines show tangy acidity and balance, along with plenty of unique spices and nuances. It also makes sense with the local fare – as cows outnumber humans four-to-one in Uruguay, and they eat more meat per capita than any other country. But there’s more than just Tannat, with some blends and whites with vibrant, tropical vibes.
I’m looking forward to digging further into wines from Uruguay and, hopefully, visiting one day to experience the country and culture for myself. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2022 Establecimiento
Juanico Don Pascual Coastal White - Uruguay, Canelones,
Juanicó
SRP: $12
Medium yellow
color. The nose sports a citrus and guava infusion with chalk dust, sea spray,
crushed shells, and hints of white pepper and basil. Crisp, light and floral on
the palate, the acidity is bright and the kiwi and green apple fruit maintain a
crunchy appeal. Racy and oceanic, with sea salt and oyster shells, along with
pleasant, nuanced bits of green onion and white pepper. This has coastal vibes
for days, and really brings a lot of depth and complexity for a wine at this
price point. Albarino, Chardonnay, and Verdejo. Uruguay with the value! (87
points)
2022
Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc - Uruguay, Canelones,
Montevideo
SRP: $12
2021
Bodegas Cerro Chapeu Folklore Blanco - Uruguay, Rivera,
Cerro Chapeu
SRP: $20
Light yellow
color. So floral and alive on the nose, with peaches, orange peels, along with
all sorts of tropical and breezy wildflowers. The palate sports a creamy
texture and moderate acidity. Flavors of orange rind, yellow apples, and limes,
the fruit is tropical but zesty, and supported by cool notes of cut flower
stems, dandelion, chalk dust, lots of breezy, airy vibes. Wow, there is a lot
of complexity and depth packed into a wine at this price point. Trebbiano and
30% Malvasia, fermented sur lie in stainless steel for six months. (90 points)
2020
Viña Progreso Cabernet Franc Overground - Uruguay,
Progreso
SRP: $26
Light purple
color. The nose sports tangy currants and plums with a uniquely spicy, meaty
appeal – tones of smoked meats, roasted hillside herbs, sun-warmed spices and
black tea. The palate shows smooth tannins and moderate acidity on a chewy but
vibrant frame, with tart and spicy red and black currants. Savory herbs and
spices, leather, with stony, earthy vibes. Fun and spicy but complex and
nuanced. A unique regional interpretation on this great grape, and I like it.
Versatile, delicious. (89 points)
2018
Antigua Bodega Stagnari Tannat Prima Donna Riberas del Santa Lucia -
Uruguay, Canelones
SRP: $23
Deep purple
color. The nose exudes deep blueberry and roasted figs, along with dark
elements of magic marker, graphite, charcoal, withs some potting soil and
violets. The palate sports a deep and chewy core with grippy tannins and lively
acidity. The fruit is a concentration of dark plums, roasted figs, and
blueberries, matched with notes of mesquite, graphite, black pepper, tobacco.
Spicy and deep but shows mineral vibrancy throughout. Really solid and
age-worthy stuff! All Tannat aged eight months in French oak. (90 points)
2020
Artesana Tannat - Merlot- Zinfandel
Reserva - Uruguay, Canelones
SRP: $23
Juicy purple
color. The nose shows tangy blueberries, tart currants, with a lot of smoky
earth, pepper, anise, tar, dried rose petals. The palate is inky and deep with
chewy tannins and medium+ acidity. Deep, tart, smoky black fruit blends well
with a host of cool spicy and earth tones (paprika, roasted red pepper, campfire
pit, black pepper). Dark coffee and earth on the finish. I love the spice and
darker elements in this wine, and it stays fresh throughout. 55% Tannat, 35%
Merlot, 15% Zinfandel, aged 12 months in French and American oak. (89 points)
2018 El
Capricho Tannat Aguará Special Reserve - Uruguay,
Durazno
SRP: $55
Deep purple
color. The nose is packed with smoky, earthy vibes, tar, and graphite (love
it!) over top of deep blackberries, coffee grounds, dark chocolate. Strong but
refined tannins, moderate acidity balances things nicely. There’s a bold but
welcome presence of barbecue, earth, chorizo, roasted red pepper, which serve
well to accent the black cherry and jammy blackberry fruit. Notes of tar,
menthol, fallen leaves, and graphite add complexity. This could use some time
in the decanter and will age nicely. Impressive! All Tannat aged 18 months in
new French oak. (90 points)
2020
Bodega Garzón Tannat Single Vineyard - Uruguay,
Maldonado
SRP: $29
Dark purple
color. The nose boasts a deep but vibrant core of juicy dark plums and
blueberries, along with potting soil, spiced tea, cocoa, and magic marker
tones. The palate kicks off with grippy tannins and moderating acidity, showing
a deep and concentrated but fresh and suave feel. The blackberry and blueberry
fruit shows a nice dark crunch, and the fruit is mixed with minerals, graphite,
and spicy tones of anise and black pepper. Needs time to show its best, but
there’s a lot to love in here. (90 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
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