But I know that, whatever Mother Nature deals out, from heat and wildfires to massive snowpack and flooding, California winegrowers and vintners are a hearty bunch. They’ll will power through, and make amazing wines.
So, this week, I want to pay respect with a mix of diverse wines from California. No further introductions needed – from known producers to value wines, they speak for themselves. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
White wines and rosés
2020 Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $76
Medium yellow color. A complex aromatic display that bounces between the richer/deeper tones (yellow apples, lemon pie, graham cracker, nougat) and bright elements (chalk dust, honeysuckle, saline), and it works so well. The palate shows a pleasant creaminess with racy acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Flavors of lemon, quince, and key lime pie, mixed with saline, minerals, crushed seashells, along with nuanced tones of honey, saltine crackers, and bread dough. Racy and vibrant throughout, a Carneros Chardonnay that might fool some for Old World in a blind tasting. (91 points)
2021 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Yellow apple skin color. The palate shows juicy yellow pears and apples, topped with honeyed white tea, almond skin, cinnamon crumb cake, but also tones of white flowers and crushed shells. Crisp acidity frames this wine well, and it has a lot of deep texture but never feels weighty. The white peach and yellow pear fruit is vibrant, and blends well with tones of honey, walnut, white tea, with some salty-mineral vibes as well. A great all-around Carneros Chardonnay that should please almost any palate. Aged nine months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)
2021 Ron Rubin Chardonnay Pam’s Un-Oaked – USA, California
SRP: $16
Ripe yellow color. Juicy nose of yellow apples, honey, glazed pear, nougat, with some cinnamon and honeycomb. Creamy but fresh on the palate, a fun appeal with flavors of yellow apples and pears, whipped honey and some nutshell tones. Notes of hay and white flowers add complexity to this medium-bodied wine with medium-low acidity. Nice value for a creamy, fun style. (85 points)
2022 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $38
Pale lemon color. The nose sports a ripe but nuanced mix of guava, pineapple, limes, topped in chalk and sliced cucumber, with floral and nettle nuances – lovely. The palate is fun and inviting but balanced and complex. Crisp acidity on a medium-bodied frame with beautiful depth of texture. Kiwi, guava, and lemon fruit blend well with racy minerals, white and yellow flowers, and a springy, spritely appeal throughout. Such personality, precision, and value – a Napa Sauv Blanc worth seeking out for sure. (92 points)
2022 Ehlers Estate Sylviane Rosé – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $38
Deep watermelon color. The nose is so crisp and perfumed, with a spring meadow packed with flowers, along with chalk dust, watermelon rind, wild raspberries, and minty-dandelion tones – wow! Deep but crunchy texture on the palate, with flavors of pomegranate, white cherries, watermelon. The complexities dance nicely, with floral, herbs, mint, minerals. An impressive highly pleasing pink with a lot of nuances to parse through – or just chill and crush a glass. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 14% Cab Franc and 5% Malbec. (91 points)
Red wines
2021 Balverne Pinot Noir Forever Wild – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Bright ruby color. The nose is a red-fruited compote of cherries, raspberries, and tangy strawberries, laced with tones of dried rose petals, dusty earth, warm clay, nuances of white pepper and rhubarb. The palate shows delightful tannins and crisp acidity that balance wonderfully off each other. Flavors of juicy strawberries and tangy red cherries, laced with notes of rhubarb, tobacco, with a lot of pretty, mineral vibes and undertones. A generous but precise interpretation that is delicious now but will age well over the coming years as well. (92 points)
2020 Ram’s Gate Pinot Noir Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $85
Vibrant ruby color. The nose is a floral, red-fruited, delightful blend of cherries, raspberries, rhubarb, rose petals, with tomato leaf and all sorts of herbal nuances. The palate is a sleek but deep affair with crisp acidity and dusty tannins, and plenty of tangy raspberry and black cherry fruit. Nuances of tobacco, white pepper, warm clay, rhubarb, loamy earth – there’s a lot to coax out with air and swirling. Delightful now, but I’d love to see this in three to five years with a duck dish. Expressive, attractive Pinot, per usual from Ram’s Gate. (93 points)
2021 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Ooh, such an inviting nose of raspberries and juicy black cherries, along with rhubarb, cola, dried roses, even some minty-tobacco notes – a lot blended together really well. Ripe and juicy on the palate, with raspberry jam and tang black cherries, over suave tannins and a lively acidity that keeps things going forward. Complex tones of roasted chestnut, tobacco, lavender, dried roses. This is easy-drinking and fun but shows serious complexity and poise as well. Such value here, and an impressively “real” Pinot Noir for this price point. (91 points)
2021 Ron Rubin Cabernet Sauvignon Pam’s Un-Oaked – USA, California
SRP: $16
Ripe ruby color. A pleasant burst of raspberries and strawberries on the nose, along with rose petals, some clove, mint, cola, and milk chocolate. On the palate, this sports soft tannins, medium-low acidity, and a fun, jammy appeal of raspberries and red plums. Ripe and fun with floral tones and coffee, some subtle earth and roasted chestnut. Smooth, crowd-pleasing, accessible Cabernet at a solid price. (86 points)
2019 Balverne Cabernet Sauvignon Forever Wild – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $48
Vibrant purple color. Beautiful concentration on the nose, it exudes an inviting mix of deep plums, currants, with cocoa, coffee, and earthy tones of roasted red bell pepper and mint. The palate shows a smooth and velvety appeal, with a deep textural feel and plenty of dusty, mineral vibes, which accent the dark currant and black cherry fruit. Notes of earth, savory spices, black tea, anise, and charcoal add complexity. This is a great example of the nuance and vibrancy that can be achieved with Chalk Hill Cabernet, and I’d love to revisit this in a few years. Seek out! Includes 9% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)
2018 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose shows gorgeous currants, black cherries, and cassis, with evocative notes of pepper, sage, menthol, mint, and a host of earthy, gravelly, stony aromas that need time so show their full effect. The palate shows tart, welcome acidity, framing the grippy tannins well, and sporting a dark core of currants, plums, and black cherries. Such freshness in the fruit, and the complexities abound: mint, charcoal, rocky earth, pencil shavings, black pepper, violet potpourri. This will benefit from age, but the young expressiveness is impressive. A 2019 Napa classic that drinks like a wine two or three times its price. Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. (93+ points)
2018 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $120
Vibrant purple color. Such an inviting nose, with dark, tangy currants and plums, plenty of savory nuances (tar, tobacco, pepper) with herbal earthy tones (tobacco, eucalyptus, red pepper flakes) – a lot of fun to swirl and sniff. The palate is framed with fresh acidity and grippy tannins that show the more refined edges. The fruit is a tangy, lovely compote of black cherries and currants, and mixes well with tones of anise, black pepper, rose petals. Plenty of earthy, stony, Napa goodness, and the nuances of cocoa and oak and woven in expertly. Open and expressive now (I’d decant for sure), but holding off for five to seven will result in an awesome experience. Cabernet with dabs of Petit Verdot and Merlot. (94 points)
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