I hope you all are enjoying your unofficial start to summer. If you’re traveling far, best of luck! And if you’re sticking close to home, I hope you’re enjoying some great wine, food, and time with loved ones.
The summer vibes are kicking into gear and, as such, I have a handful of diverse wines that would fit well into a mixed case of summer wines. With the coming heat and humidity here in the Mid-Atlantic, I need some sparkling wines in the mix. And I have some delicious, interesting bubbles in this mix, too.
Australia hasn’t appeared for a while, so I want to highlight several summer-friendly wines from Bird in Hand. It had been several years since I tried wines from this South Australia producer, and I had forgotten how expressive and dynamic they were.
Reds are welcome as well, and needed for grill-outs, but I like to stick with juicy, less dense reds over the coming summer season. Rioja comes in great for these situations, and Beronia puts out classic Rioja goodness at very reasonable price points.
I recently attended a virtual tasting with winemaker Paul Warson, a man with a serious resume, spanning renown producers and regions from Los Angeles, Santa Ynez, to Napa. In addition to his own project, he makes wines for Moraga Estate, which is a unique place and project. Located in the Bel-Air hills, this small production winery follows the traditional Bordeaux estate lineup, making an estate red and white from Bordeaux varieties. Paul seems like a great fit: “It’s fantasy land here,” he said. “I consider myself incredibly fortunate.” Yes, if you’ve heard of this winery, you probably know it’s owned by Rupert Murdoch. News and politics aside, the wines are structured, very worthy of cellar time, and undeniably high-quality.
And some value-driven bubbles and white wines round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Sparkling
2022 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Sparkling – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $24
Deep salmon color. The nose sports a brisk, chalky appeal with floral perfume, dandelion, along with crunchy white cherries and red apples. The palate sports fine bubbles and a creamy depth that balances well with zesty acidity. The fruit tends toward crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, white cherries, which are mixed well with tones of saline, chalk dusty, white flowers, hints of rhubarb and white pepper. Some flinty minerals on the finish. Super fun, crushable, crowd-pleasing, but complex and nuances throughout. Cool stuff! (90 points IJB)
N.V. Graham Beck Brut Rosé – South Africa, Western Cape
SRP: $20
Lively salmon color. The aromas are bright and airy with flavors of raspberries, watermelon, tart strawberries, mixed with elements of yellow flowers, basil, fresh green herbs. The palate has a chalky feel on a light-bodied frame, generous bubbles, along with flavors of raspberries and watermelon. Nuances of honeysuckle, light biscuits, saline, a fun and refreshing appeal. Such a reliable producer of quality, widely-available Champagne-method bubbles with a lot of personality and value. 2/3 Pinot, 1/3 Chardonnay. (88 points IJB)
2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Piquette – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich watermelon color. A spritely, chalky, crunchy aromatic display of raspberries and crunchy red apples, with spicy, herbal goodness. The palate is taut and brisk, light-bodied, with flavors of cranberry relish and red apples. Nice kicks of spiced black tea, white pepper, floral perfume, really fun and crushable, in the best way. This new take on ancient farmer fizz is full of summertime goodness. A blend of Mourvèdre, vermentino, Cinsault, Tannat, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Négrette. (88 points IJB)
White and Rosé
2022 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Verdejo Rueda – Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $17
Pale lemon color. The palate is fresh and bright with limes, green apples, and a steely, perfumed, ocean spray vibe. The palate is racy and infused with salty, brisk goodness, light but not lacking in flavor, with crunchy green apples and pears, lime zest. Notes of fennel and basil add a lovely fresh, mildly spicy kick. A crisp and punchy appeal, and seems perfectly situated to a sun-roasted patio with a fresh tray of oysters overlooking an ocean, as it reminds me of just that. A delicious, value-driven, easy half-case buy for summertime, salads, and seafood. (90 points IJB)
2022 Bird in Hand Sauvignon Blanc – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $20
Pale straw color. The aromas pop with a mix of pineapple, juicy mango, honeydew melon, drizzled with lime, topped in white flowers, oregano, perfume, freshly sliced cucumbers – a lot to enjoy on the nose. Medium-bodied, pleasant mouthfeel, crisp acidity, and the fruit comes in the form of kiwi, pineapple, orange peel, love the balance, creaminess. The nuances of sliced green onion, honeysuckle, dandelion, and daisies add a lot to like, and there’s this vibrant, stony, mountain stream vibe that lingers on the finish. I was really surprised by the balance and focus in this Sauv Blanc. (91 points IJB)
2012 Moraga Vineyards Estate Bel-Air White – USA, California, South Coast, Los Angeles County
Library Release
An 11-year-old Sauv Blanc from Bel Air, California? Yep, and it is really impressive. Pretty light yellow color. The nose is so bright and vibrant, with fresh salty air, seashells, white and yellow flowers, over a bed of pure lemon and yellow pear fruit. Deep but airy, with floral meadow vibes. The palate shows a creamy, waxy texture with acidity that cuts deep through and provides refreshment. Pineapple and lemon curd fruit mixes with rich tones of honey and nougat, hints of vanilla and almond cake. Contrast that with nuances of seashells, chalk dust, and talc. Deep but vibrant, this could still age a long time. I’d love to throw this into a blind tasting with some white Bordeaux and see heads spin when it is unveiled. Impressive, age-worthy, delicious stuff. All Sauv Blanc, with 30% new French oak fermentation, then in stainless steel. (93 points IJB)
2022 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Rosé – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $20
Bright watermelon color. So bright and inviting on the nose with fresh red apples, pretty strawberries, and cantaloupe, with a bright, spicy, floral appeal of celery seed, mint, chalk dust, floral meadows. The palate is zesty and tangy but there’s a pretty, honeyed texture and mouthfeel. Watermelon, McIntosh apple, strawberry rhubarb pie, these flavors are delicious and accentuated by effusive chalk, flint, minerals, and notes of white flowers and white pepper. Love the depth, precision, and balance here. (90+ points IJB)
2022 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Rosado – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Light salmon color. Spritely aromas of red delicious apple, wild raspberries, with white pepper, yellow flowers, hints of sea salt and freshly cut grass. There’s a nice creaminess to accentuate the vibrant acidity on the palate, with flavors of orange peel, red apple slices, wild raspberries. There’s a nice mix of spicy and floral tones interwoven with notes of talc and minerals. For a pink at this price point, there’s a lot to love here – balanced, crowd-pleasing stuff. 50/50 Garnacha and Tempranillo. (87 points IJB)
Red
2019 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: 15
Deep ruby color. Aromas show fresh red cherries and wild raspberries, along with enticing notes of tobacco, sage, fallen leaves, leather, smoky earth. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity, zesty even, with smooth tannins and a crushable but complex feel. The black cherries, juicy raspberries, strawberry jam fruit mix well with nuances of leather, tar, dried roses and violets, tobacco, roasted red pepper. A lot of fun, but shows balance and complexity, too. (87 points IJB)
2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $25
Bright light purple color. The nose shows mulled cherries, juicy raspberries, plum sauce, tossed with savory spices, tobacco leaf, notes of library dust and clay. The palate has soft tannins and moderate acidity, supporting cherry and mulled raspberry fruit. Notes of tar, tobacco, spiced tea, cracked black pepper, they add complexity and grilled food-friendly vibes. Fun and smooth but nice balance and complexity with a pleasantly smoky finish. Drinking great now. (89 points IJB)
2015 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $30
Deep ruby color. A delightfully dark and warm aromatic display of red and black currants, laced with graphite, smoky earth, mesquite, tobacco, grilled meats, notes of mineral and vanilla bean. The palate is rich and saucy but really fresh and inviting, with fine-grained tannins and lively acidity. The dark currant and plum fruit is tangy and complex, and mixed with notes of loamy earth, stony minerals, tobacco, anise, nuances of oak and graphite. The deep compote of fruit blends so well with these savory tones, and this has a long life ahead as well. (91 points IJB)
2017 Moraga Vineyards Estate Bel-Air Red – USA, California, South Coast, Los Angeles County
SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Wow, the nose is beautiful, with deep currant, plum back, black cherry cola, laced with smoky earth, savory spice, dried violets, tilled soil, nuanced oak and vanilla. The palate shows nice grip and structure with round-edged tannins and lively acidity. Tangy currant and rich plum fruit, smooth, deep, vibrant, and it’s tossed together well with black pepper, anise, coffee grounds, campfire, pencil lead, tar. Showing wonderfully now but this will age for a long time. No lie, this is legit Cab. All Cab, all new French oak. (92 points IJB)
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