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Sunday, August 27, 2023

Late summer selections from Italy

Of all the wine regions in the world I have yet to visit, Sicily is very high on that list. Yes, Nebbiolo from Piedmont makes those epic, long-aging beauties unlike anywhere else in the world. But Sicily produces what I find to be some of the most interesting and dynamic wines from, well, anywhere. It’s such a diverse area with so many unique sites and local grapes, mixed with ancient and modern winemaking techniques and styles. And I have a few examples this week that offer a great way to dig in and explore the island’s indigenous grape varieties. Famiglia Statella really delivers with their Etna Rosso, and Alessandro di Camporeale produces an exceptional white from the Catarratto grape.

And Duca di Salaparuta has two exciting wines that would be great for late summer outdoor gatherings – a Vermentino and a Grillo.

From Pasqua, I have two nice values in the form of a Puglian Primitivo and a bright Prosecco. And Valdo has a traditional method-fermented Prosecco, and this wine is good enough to convert any Prosecco skeptics.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

And a note to followers of my writing on Terroirist. I’m sad to see that blog shutter after so many years there. But I plan to continue and expand my wine writing and coverage on this blog, along with a lot of other content. Thanks for reading.

2019 Famiglia Statella Etna Rosso “Pignatuni” - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
SRP: $63
Medium ruby color. An elegant, electric nose of black cherries and fresh strawberries, topped with a complex mix of spicy tobacco, black pepper, some roasted herbs, warm clay. It has this sun-roasted goodness, but so fresh as well. The palate is fleshy and juicy with smooth tannins, vibrant acidity, and a delightful sense of balance. The fruit is plush and tangy with red cherries and strawberries, blended well with tones of charcoal, herbs, anise, black pepper, sage, and sun-roasted hillside. Love the mineral essence and earthy presence on the finish. From pre-phylloxera vines that the family calls their Premier Cru. Really elegant, fascinating Nerello Mascalese. (91 points)

2020 Alessandro di Camporeale Catarratto Monreale “Vigna Di Mandranova” - Italy, Sicily, Monreale
SRP: $22
Rich yellow color. The nose shows tangy fruits like key lime, lemon, papaya, all of which is infused with ocean breeze, crushed seashells and rocks. So aromatically energetic with punchy floral notes as well. Racy and vibrant on the palate with a lovely depth of texture, and a fruit salad bowl of ruby red grapefruit, pineapple, lemon slices, quince. There’s a deep stony, mineral presence, with crushed shells and limestone. Taut and energetic, but that creamy depth and fruit really balance it all out and add depth. All Catarratto Extra Lucido, aged on the lees in steel for a year, while some spends a year in French oak tonneaux. A journey to a Sicilian fishing village in a glass. (91 points)

2022 Barone Montalto Pinot Grigio Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $N/A

Pale lemon color. A fresh lemony burst on the nose with ruby red grapefruit and white peaches, the fruit backed up by yellow and white flowers, orange blossom, with some breezy, minty, airy elements. The palate is crisp and punchy with a pleasant texture and lively acidity. White peach and kiwi, drizzled with lime, and the fruit is dusted with flavors of chalk, sea salt, yellow flowers, and there’s this nice minty, salted lime peel kick. Juicy and ripe but nuanced, lots of floral complexity. (89 points)

2022 Duca di Salaparuta Grillo Sicilia “Calanica” - Italy, Sicily, Grillo Sicilia DOC
SRP: $20
Bright yellow with exciting aromas of kiwi, ruby red grapefruit, pineapple, blended with dandelion, mint, some talc and flinty tones. The palate has a lovely creamy texture and bright acidity with flavors of lemon and kiwi fruit, and all sorts of talc and flinty mineral vibes. There’s a lot of sliced cucumber, basil, sea salt, white and yellow flowers, just a bunch of fresh accents that keep this lively and enticing. Lovely Grillo for the dog days of summer. (89 points)

2021 Duca di Salaparuta Vermentino Terre Siciliane “Sentiero del Vento” - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane
SRP: $29
Light yellow color. Aromas of yellow plums and pineapple, with all sorts of orange blossoms, tropical vibes, honeycomb, with some daisies and stony elements. The palate has a delicious mix of yellow plums, pineapple, drizzled in lime, brightened with racy acidity and a precise, balanced feel. Tropical and forward but so much nuance with herbal, saline, mineral, mountain stream tones. There are a lot of floral nuances to parse through here for sure. A delightful interpretation of Vermentino. (91 points)

2019 Valdo Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Numero 10 - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene
SRP: $30

Medium lemon color. The nose shows a delightful mix of tangy green and juicy yellow apples with white peaches, and a ton of yellow flowers, sea salt, some biscuit, honeysuckle. The palate has a surprisingly creamy depth, delightful bubbles, and this racy, brisk acidity – and the balance is quite a thing. Tangy lemons, kiwi, with riper yellow pear and apple fruit, and it blends well with notes of sea salt, crushed limestone, floral perfume, and these deeper, honey and bread crumb vibes. Finishes with these chalky minerals. Serious, deep, complex Prosecco. (91 points)

2021 Pasqua Primitivo Desire Lush & Zin - Italy, Puglia, Puglia IGT
SRP: $18
Light purple color. A nice juicy and jammy aromatic appeal, with black cherries, saucy plums, along with light roast coffee, toffee, and some violets. The palate shows chewy tannins and medium-low acidity with ripe and jammy fruit (cherries, plums, blackberries), and a fun appeal. Some nice complexities of clove, toffee, red licorice, and warm clay add cool nuance. Really nice value for grill-outs, parties, and will please any Zin lover. (88 points)

N.V. Pasqua Prosecco Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pale lemon color. A bright and chalky vibe on the nose with lots of white flowers, sugar cane, along with crunchy green apples, kiwi, some honeysuckle and nettle. The palate shows a fresh and crunchy feel with bright acidity and zesty fruits (kiwi, green apple, yellow pear), along with some crushed sweet tarts, white flowers, mint, and breezy meadow feel. Fun stuff, really solid value. (87 points)

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