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Wednesday, September 27, 2023

Merry Edwards and the legacy of excellent Sonoma Pinot

My love for Sonoma and wine goes back 17 years now, which isn’t that long in the grand scheme of things. But as a Jersey Shore kid who moved all around the East Coast and Europe for many years in my early life, Sonoma was the first place I visited on the West Coast. And it blew my mind. The coast drew me in (and terrified me) as I surfed its cold, big, sharky waters, and the trails and forests were like none I had ever explored.

I was impressed with a lot of the wines I first tasted, but as I studied wine and got deeper into things, I was enthralled by the wines from Merry Edwards. There were plenty of other more cult-y wines at this time that a Cali Pinot nerd could go chasing. And I did – and enjoyed many of those rabbit holes. But, there are no other Sonoma Pinots I enjoy returning to more than Merry Edwards.


And Merry is a legend in the cannon of California winemaking, a person whose work and achievements would be almost insulting to try and summarize here. (Real know real.) What I think has been most impressive about this winery in the last decade, is how seamlessly they have transitioned and handled change, all while making wines of absurd consistency.

Merry worked closely with winemaker Heidi Von Der Mehden for years before handing over the winemaking role upon her retirement in 2020. Since then, Heidi and the team have been keeping so true to the winery’s style, aesthetic, and appeal, while embracing change and new opportunities. There is no stumbling, no awkwardness, no record among the vast catalog that fans dismiss. This winery just keeps on excelling.

The proof is in the glass with Merry Edwards’ 2021 vintage. Wow. Super fresh, deep but this airy vibe, refined tannins in the red but the depth and concentration will really keep things improving in the cellar for at least five to six years. That said, they all seem open for business, and I certainly think it would be a stellar idea to open one of these Pinots on a cooler Autumn night with some slow-cooked food and good company.

Over the years, I’ve visited three or four times now. And I’d go back a fifth, and sixth, etc. The tasting room and grounds are beautiful, the staff welcoming and so courteous, and the wines always sing.

Here’s a summary on my take of the new 2021 releases. It really is a vintage to seek out and enjoy in the years to come. These wines were received as samples. The Sauvignon Blanc was tasted sighted, while the Pinots were tasted single-blind.


2021 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc
 - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light yellow color. The nose has a gorgeous mix of limes, apricot, pineapple, with a host of breezy, floral goodness – basil, honeycomb, mint sea breeze, dandelions, chalk dust, all sorts of nuances to coax out. The palate has such raciness and verve, balanced wonderfully with creamy richness, that classic signature textural depth and lip-smacking focus. Exotic, expressive fruit (kiwi, white peach, lemon, papaya, beautiful stuff) that goes on and on. There’s a bright salinity, lots of white and yellow flowers, notes of minerals and mountain stream, with hints of white pepper and basil. Another stellar vintage, this one will age for a very long time, or give it plenty of air and enjoy over a few days to let it express itself fully. Aged on the lees for four months in 18% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $60
Deep raspberry color. Beautiful nose of black cherries, deep plums, and raspberry jam – the fruit backed up with savory, floral, inviting tones: violets, warm clay, red pepper flakes, rose petals, rhubarb, with light roast coffee. The palate has lively acidity, refined tannins, nicely structured and textured, with juicy black cherries, tangy red plum fruit, and your favorite cranberry relish/jam. The fruit is laced with dried rose petals, herbal tea, black pepper, with some sun-roasted herbs and clay elements. Pure, vibrant, mineral-tinged red fruits on the finish. Great intro to their style and an exceptional wine in its own right. Aged nine months in 47% new French oak. (93 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant ruby color. A ripe and lush nose of crushed black cherries, the freshest raspberries, raspberry jam, and as delicious as the fruit is, it blends so well with the non-fruit nuances: deep earth, sage, tobacco, roasted chestnut, cola, yet it maintains this airy feel. Full and suave on the palate, so juicy and fresh with gorgeous fruit (black cherries, deep strawberries, raspberries). Dusty tannins, deep texture, crisp acidity, with complexities of tobacco, green herbs, black tea, with minerals and stony earth. This is so pretty now but it’s almost a shame to enjoy because it will sing so wonderfully in five or six years. Aged nine months in 83% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Georganne - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Pretty ruby color. The aromas have this complex tapestry with these darker cherries, saucy plums and deep earth, with airier elements of roses and violets, rhubarb, pomegranate tea, and all sorts of spices and nuances. The palate is deep with structured but round-edged tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit tends towards this mix of black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce, and the fruit is matched with lots of spices, dried flowers, gravelly-loamy soil, with cola and light roast coffee elements. So good – this one is an especially long-ager for this lineup. Aged 10 months in 51% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with this rich cherry ganache, strawberry jam, watermelon, with a complex blend of rhubarb, mint, tobacco, dusty earth, and some spiced tea. On the palate, this shows bright acidity and a juicy texture with chewy tannins and a mouthwatering feel throughout. Tangy black cherries, plenty of raspberries and strawberries, cherry pie, deep but so fresh and tasted pure. This one has a really cool signature of tobacco, rose hips, white pepper, rhubarb, some roasted nuts, clay and rocky soil, with this mineral-laden finish. Another really solid ager but so expressive and clear in its youth. A gem. Aged 10 months in 50% new French oak. (95 points)

2021 MerryEdwards Pinot Noir Dach Vineyard USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. So deep and juicy on the nose, a heavenly mix of black cherries, juicy strawberries, and saucy plums, topped with all sorts of non-fruit complexities: spiced tea, dried rose petals, rhubarb, warm clay, nuanced cola and sarsaparilla tones. The palate is pure, suave, and plush, with structured tannins balanced against boisterous acidity, with delicious, tangy, deep fruit (blueberries, black cherries, wild raspberries). I get a complex host of tobacco, black pepper, cola, root beer, and tones of earth, clay, and minerals. Gorgeous stuff that will age gracefully for a decade-plus. This vineyard is a welcome addition to the band’s lineup, and one to watch, especially if your palate tends toward that Anderson Valley goodness. Aged 10 months in 54% new French oak. (94 points)

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