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Sunday, November 12, 2023

Diversity and value in South American wines

This week, I have a diverse roundup of wines from South America.

Argentina was one of the first wine regions I really explored. Mostly because, well, it was easy! The grapes were labeled by variety, fruity and accessible, and full of value. But the deeper I dug, the more I found intriguing and complex wines. I’ve been following along ever since, and I always appreciate how the reasonable prices allow a wider audience to check out the offerings.

But if you’re looking to splurge, and want to do so wisely, high-end Chilean Cabernet is a great bet. Long-aging capability, deep and juicy fruit, and a whole lot of spicy, mineral complexity – I love it. From Errazuriz, and the amazing Aconcagua Valley -- the Don Maximo is a stunner.

To spice things up, there’s a Cab Franc from Uruguay as well – which would be a ton of fun in a blind tasting.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Bodega Otronia Chardonnay Block III & VI
 - Argentina, Patagonia
SRP: $65
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a rich mix of pineapple, yellow apples, lemon bars, along with notes of honey, nougat, corn husk, along with some salt brine and chalk dust elements. The palate is generous but balanced and focused, with a medium-bodied feel and vibrant acidity. The palate sports lemons, key limes, yellow apples and pears, lovely fruit mixed with nougat, honey, almond bars, and white tea elements. Finishes with a clear, salty appeal. Harmonious and delicious, call me impressed! Fun fact -- this comes from the southernmost winery on the planet. (91 points)

2021 Trapiche Chardonnay Gran Medalla - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The aromas show ripe oranges, bruised yellow pears, with honey, almond butter, some chalk dust, hints of sea salt and yellow flowers. Ripe and rich on the palate with medium acidity that keeps it fresh, and flavors of candied orange peel and yellow apples and pears. The fruit is backed up by elements of butterscotch and cinnamon crumb cake, but also these chalky, sea salt, almond skin tones. The best of both Chardonnay worlds in this seriously value-driven wine. (88 points)

2021 Domaine Bousquet Pinot Noir Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Light ruby color. A bright and spicy red-fruited aromatic display of cranberry relish, raspberries, strawberries, along with elements of white pepper, rhubarb, dried rose petals, and a mix of black pepper and spice/herb blends. The palate sports zippy acidity, light and dusty tannins, with vibrant red fruits like cranberry relish, crunchy red apples, and fresh strawberries. The fruit is blended well with tones of white pepper, spiced tea, rose hips, along with sage, pickling spices, and other savory tones. Fun, balanced, a real crowd-pleaser but complex and elegant as well. A screaming value. (90 points)

2021 Terrazas de Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Aromas are spicy and saucy with sweet plums, juicy black cherries, mixed with inviting tones of coffee, dark chocolate, and black tea, with spicy-herbal vibes. The palate is smooth, warm, and juicy with soft but chewy tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit has a nice mix of jammy black cherries with tangier red fruits as well (raspberries and strawberries). The earth and herbal tones really add a nice mix to this, with elements of tobacco, black pepper, leather, roasted herbs. Fun, accessible, in a good way. (88 points)

2021 Terrazas de Los Andes Malbec Reserva - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Smells warm and inviting with raspberries, plum sauce, raisins, with roses and violets, savory tones, pepper, milk chocolate. The palate is smooth and ripe with juicy, chewy tannins and moderating acidity. The flavors of raspberries and blackberry jams blend well with tons of gravelly loam, smoky earth, spicy tones of bell pepper and sage, with leather and coffee. Really fun and crushable, but complex and balanced well, too. (88 points)

2019 Terrazas de Los Andes Grand Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $60
Dark purple color. A concentrated aromatic display of dark plums, cassis, blueberry jam, which is all mixed well with complex elements of smashed rocks, charcoal, graphite, along with mint, chewing tobacco, and coffee grounds – lots do parse through. The palate sports generous texture and lively acidity with medium grip and flavors of tangy cassis and black cherries. The wine is laced with minerals, graphite, smashed rocks, lots of earth, and tones of oregano, black pepper, black tea, violets. Will only get better with time. (91 points)

2019 Mascota Vineyards Pinot Noir Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $25
Bright ruby color. The nose pops with super fresh, crunchy red fruits (raspberries, cherries, strawberries, along with warm clay, dried roses and violet petals, some mint and tobacco notes. The palate is really fun and accessible, but balanced as well, with supple tannins and fresh acidity to support the black cherry and juicy raspberry fruit. Notes of mint, tobacco, violets, spicy herbs, and black pepper offer a lot of nuance and complexity, with gentle kisses of oak. Pure fun and delicious, but “serious” at the same time. (90 points)

2019 Mascota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Unánime Signature - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $35
Rich purple color. Complex aromas that sport black cherries, saucy plums, tangy blueberries, backed up with tobacco, graphite, mocha, fallen leaves, and cedar for a warm, inviting appeal. The palate shows refined tannins with vibrant acidity and a smooth and balanced mouthfeel. Flavors of black currants and roasted figs abound, and I get notes of earth, sage, campfire, graphite, Autumn woods. And there’s some coffee grounds, mineral, and dark chocolate shavings on the finish. Suave, ripe, but nuanced and smooth. Great to drink now but could hold as well, and a good call for a holiday party red for the cold weather. Aged 14 months in French oak. (92 points)

2020 Bodega Experimental Cabernet Franc Viña Progreso Overground - Uruguay, Progreso
SRP: $26
Light purple color. Aromas of currant and plum jams kick things off, followed up by a mix of meaty, spicy, peppery, with roasted herbs, black tea, notes of sun-dried tomato and basil. The palate is smooth with fresh acidity and a dusty, chewy feel to the tannins. I get tones of black and red currants, with plum sauce, mixed with tones of smoked meats, black pepper, all sorts of other herbs and spices. I can’t really find another regional Cab Franc to compare this to, it’s just its own thing. (89 points)

2018 Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve - Chile, Aconcagua Valley
SRP: $105
Bright purple color. On the nose, there is a deep core of currants, black cherries, a jar of fig paste you might find at a really nice farmer’s market, along with a complex host of lavender, loamy earth, charcoal, cedar, mint – really needs some time or a good decant to get going. On the palate, this has structured but refined tannins, fresh acidity, and a juicy, tangy frame of dark fruits (black cherries, cassis, dark plums). The wine is packed with nuance and complexity, with waves of savory herbs and spices, tones of minerals, dusty earth, and loam, along with roasted red pepper, lavender, anise, leather. Delicious and complex, harmonious but will reward the patient. Cabernet Sauvignon with some Malbec, this is an absolute stunner and long-term cellar friend. (94 points)

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