Spreading holiday cheer with Port, Prosecco, and Napa wine

The holiday travel, juggling work and time off, family gatherings – it’s all in full swing and it can all be a lot. But I have a host a wine selections this week that would make either/or: 1) a great last-minute gift; 2) wonderful choice for ringing in the New Year; 3) fun and delicious wine to have around this winter.

I’m a big fan of Port, and the diversity of styles allows for palates of all type to explore and find something to enjoy. And during cold winter nights a glass of Port is an enriching experience. Graham’s is a Port lodge with a long and respected history, and like other large houses, they put out a wide range of styles. If you’re not sure which one you like, or you just want to experience different styles, Graham’s has a great little idea. It’s a three-pack of 200ml bottles that includes their Six Grapes (a ruby style), the 10-Year Tawny, and the 20-Year Tawny Port. This sampler pack is available for $55 and a worthy purchase for yourself or as a gift.

Bubbles are always on tap at my holiday gatherings (Champagne mostly). But I am no longer a Prosecco hater. The growth demand for these Italian bubbles in the U.S. in the past means higher quality wines are easier to find (at least that’s my experience). The supermarket brands are everywhere, but I’ve found a gem of a bargain. It’s a lot better than some more expensive peers, and would be a great holiday treat.

And to top things off, I had to include some killer Napa reds. Each year for at least the last decade, I’ve opened a Napa Cab during a delicious home-cooked meal with family – always during that glorious period between December 24 and January 1. Napa is king for a reason, and I want to share two new-to-me wines that wowed me recently, a Cab and a Syrah. They’re from Hoopes Vineyard, based in Oakville. Owner Lindsay Hoopes grew up on a farm and among the vines of Oakville, and the winery includes a regenerative farm and animal sanctuary. And the wines? They rock. I’m glad I found out about this producer, and the end of the year seems like a great time to share them.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Graham Porto Six Grapes Reserve - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Ripe purple color. The nose exudes roasted figs and plum cake tossed together with violets, coffee, toffee, milk and dark chocolate bars. On the palate, I get a smooth, slightly chewy mouthfeel with moderating acidity. Ripe but nuanced flavors of chocolate-covered raisins, fig paste, sweet plum sauce, even some candied orange peel. Notes of sweet coffee, toffee, and violets add a nice kick, and there’s even some nuanced earth tones. That undeniably fun, juicy, ripe, and pleasant ruby style. (88 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
A rich tawny color with classic, deep aromas of roasted figs, golden raisins, sweet plums, and candied orange peels, along with coffee, toffee, and scents of almond cake and roasted pecans. The palate is sweet and plush with a rich texture and medium acidity. Delicious flavors of golden raisins, fig and currant compote, prunes, accented with toasted peanuts and candied pecans, with a salted caramel and honeyed finish. Undeniably delicious, and a great intro into the tawny style at a great price. (90 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 20 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Deep tawny color. An even richer and more complex aromatic display, with roasted figs, dried orange peels, mixed with caramel, dried honey, sweet espresso, ginger snap cookies, and crumb cake. The palate is ripe and dense but stays enlivened with moderate acidity. Lovely flavors of pear butter, raspberry jam, dried apple slices, with all sorts of nuanced nutty, honeyed, salty, and crème brulee elements. Warm but invigorating, a lovely cold night sip with friends. (92 points)

N.V. Danzante Prosecco Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $8
Slight copper color. A bright and chalky nose with crushed sweet tarts over top of lemon, ruby red grapefruit, and lots of white and yellow flowers. On the palate, this Prosecco is racy and vibrant with fresh acid, fine bubbles, and flavors of ruby red grapefruit, green and yellow apples and pears. Notes of crushed sweet tarts and seashells add complexity. Fun, vibrant, balanced sugar, with a nice salty kick. Screaming value. (89 points)

2018 Hoopes Vineyard Syrah Sophie’s Block - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District

SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Dark plum and blackberries on the nose, so juicy and dark, with smoky earth, black pepper, violets, along with some potting soil and rocky earth. Richly textured on the palate, solid grip all around, but the acidity is lively and fresh. Flavors of saucy black cherries and tangy wild blueberries, and the fruit is accented with delightful notes of black olive, cracked pepper, a lot of savory spices. Earthy, tar, graphite, and mineral tones linger long on the finish. Savory, juicy, vibrant, spicy, this will improve greatly with five years in the cellar. (93 points)

2018 Hoopes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $125
Dark purple color. An intoxicating nose of black currants, blueberries, fig paste, with rich earth, savory spices, dried rose petals, along with graphite, cedar, and rocky soil – really needs time and air to coax out the full range. The palate sports a bold texture with grippy but fine-edged tannins and vibrant acidity that keeps the lips smacking. The fruit is a mix of zesty currant, wild blueberry, and suave black cherries, accented with complexities of graphite, cedar, coffee grounds, tobacco, and leather. Deep but fresh, this will be a long-ager, and while it’s impressive now, it will reward the patient in the cellar. (94 points)

Brengman Brothers excel with crisp, complex Michigan wines

If you’re looking to branch out from the big states of American wine (and you should be), Michigan wine is an amazing place to start. Specifically, Brengman Brothers. Especially if you’re a fan of German, Austrian, or Alsatian wines and are looking to get excited about a new-to-you American producer excelling in wines similar to those styles.

I’ve tasted through a wide range of this producer’s lineup (which is quite extensive and evolving), and have been intrigued by what I’ve found. These wines hail from Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula American Viticultural Area, which is located on northwest Lower Michigan. The state’s second AVA, approved in 1982, this region benefits from the lake effect’s moderating temperature, given the proximity to Lake Michigan, Grand Traverse Bay, and Lake Leelanau. Sandy, loamy, well-drained soils provide deep-rooted vines of many different types to thrive here.

Credit: Brengman Brothers

These estate wines are able to translate that vibrant, lean, mineral-infused vibe I look for in cooler-climate wines, but they have tons of nuanced, perfectly ripe, tropical and other fruits – the best of both worlds.

Brengman is the project of brothers Ed and Robert, who purchased their Crain Hill Vineyard in 2003. They’ve been going through growth spurts ever since. I appreciated the winery's straightforward mission statement: “The goal has always been to develop a Leelanau terroir with an old-world spirit that, through time, becomes the benchmark for the region.” I think they can pat themselves on the back for coming a long way in meeting that goal.

It’s not easy to make exciting, “real” wines at affordable prices, but Brengman makes it easier to venture out without spending too much. Specifically, the Pet-Nats around the holidays seem like a great purchase for parties or gifts. And the Riesling and Chard would be great on the holiday table or as ringers in a blind tasting with wine nerd friends. And they seem to have quite a beautiful tasting room and kitchen that I surely plan to visit if I find myself near Traverse City, Michigan.

Whatever you’re sipping and serving, happy holidays to you and yours! Thanks for stopping by and I wish you health and happiness.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Brengman Brothers Wild Card Pet Nat Rosé - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $27
Light watermelon color. The nose pops with talc and sea salt, basil, white pepper, along with crunchy red apples, strawberries, wild raspberries, and lemons. The palate is vibrant and zesty with a precise, bracing feel, and light bubbles and body. Flavors of white peach, wild raspberries, crunchy McIntosh apples. Nuances of minerals, floral perfume, sea salt, and some basil and mint. Summery fun for any time of the year! A 50/50 split of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (89 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Wild Card Pet Nat - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $27
Light yellow color with lively effervescence. So vibrant on the nose, peachy keen with notes of cantaloupe and honeydew melon rinds, floral perfume, flinty minerals, honeysuckles and daisies. The palate is a zippy and taut affair with a light body and a crunchy, lip-smacking appeal. Flavors of candied lemon peel and melon rind blend well with notes of sea salt and minerals. Airy and breezy with all sorts of cool floral and spice tones (dandelion, daisies, nettle, mint, white tea). Vibrant, crunchy, this has a lot of personality. A Pet-Nat of Riesling and Gewurz -- this is super cool, a ton of fun, but also complex and balanced. (90 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Riesling Trocken Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula

SRP: $32
Light yellow color. The aromas show brightly with crunchy green apples and green melon, drizzled in limes, with a host of other scents: honeysuckle, dandelion, some crushed shells. Really makes the mouth water, and then the palate follows through with zippy acidity and a plush texture. Focused and crisp, with flavors of lime, white peaches, green pears, and the fruit is topped in crushed sweet tarts, notes of sea shells, flinty minerals, and some floral perfume on the finish. A clear and vibrant Riesling that is delicious and would be so versatile with all sorts of food. Made with wild yeast, this is a blend of three lots of Riesling fermented in stainless steel, concrete, and French oak. (91 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Block 65 Blend Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $32
Medium yellow color. The nose pops with peaches, papaya, yellow apples, along with all sorts of orange blossom, dandelion, with flinty minerals and chalk dust. The palate has this delightfully plush texture matched with spritely acidity. A fruit salad welcomes the taster with cantaloupe, white peach, nectarine, along with complex and nuanced tones of dandelion, basil, mint. Notes of stony minerals and river rocks add a refreshing zip, and there’s some honeyed floral tea to round things out. Balanced, clear, and focused, a delightful wild ferment blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, and Pinot Gris. (90 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Timberlee Vineyard -­ USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $35
Medium yellow color. A cool nose of rich guava, papaya, and quince, with salted lemon, yellow flowers, and racy tones of chalk dust and bright, breezy spring fields. The palate has a great combination of juicy texture and racy acidity, and the wire-balancing act is executed so well. Lemons and quince, some ripe yellow and crunchy green apples. The fruit meets these honeyed, richer vibes with mineral precision and hints of green herbs and white flowers. Finishes with such stony, herbal, rushing river essence. Impressive expression of place and an expertly done take on this classic Sauv Blanc/Semillon blend. (92 points)

2020 Brengman Brothers Chardonnay Artist's Series - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $N/A
Vibrant yellow color. Ripe and juicy on the nose with yellow pears and apple butter, along with lemon curd, almond, and peanut brittle, along with scents of yellow flowers and hay. The palate is richly textured but medium bodied with moderate acidity and flavors of yellow pears and apples. The balance is really nice between the richer elements (hazelnut, lemon crème, whipped honey) with notes of minerals and sea salt. Deep but racy with harmonious flavors. Lovely Chardonnay (and Robert is an awesome winemaker and painter – his art is on the label). Aged 12 months in new French oak. (90 points)

California and Oregon wines for giving and holiday celebrations

It’s that rush before the holidays when things are crazy and time seems to fly by. There’s so much to do and plan, and wine-buying shouldn’t be an added stress. So, this week I have a group of wines from producers I think would make great gifts or bottles to open with your friends and family this holiday season.

I’m focusing on California and Oregon, from two producers I’ve known and respected for a while, to a new (to me) producer from a well-known region. In the spirit of giving and thankfulness, I’ve chosen producers I think make a solid effort toward environmental stewardship, and delicious wines.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Halter Ranch

I have such fond memories of visiting Paso Robles. The place is beautiful, the people welcoming, and the wines – it’s just an embarrassment of riches. The diversity of grapes is impressive – whether the Bordeaux classics, or Italian varieties blended together in all shapes and sizes, to Spanish grapes that fit various nooks and crannies in the Paso terroir. Lots of little gems pop up if you go looking. There’s a real, true-blue feel to a lot of the winemakers, and it seems evident in a lot of wines. They’re not showy for the sake of it, they’re clear expressions of intent, style, and place. And whatever style you’re into, I bet you can find a cool expression somewhere in the larger Paso Robles region.

Take this new-to-me producer, Halter Ranch. I thought I had a pretty good understanding of a lot of the producers here, but I somehow missed this one. I’m glad that has been rectified. Halter Ranch tends to 200 acres of organic vineyards, walnuts, and olives. Sheep graze (and fertilize) the vineyard in classic fashion. And proprietor Hansjörg Wyss and winemaker Kevin Sass make at least 15 different expressions or blends from 20 different varieties of west-side Paso fruit. Looking at their lineup, there’s a lot piques my interest. These wines offer an enticing look at what these folks are doing.

2022 Halter Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $43
Light copper color. A beautiful nose of yellow apples, white peach, orange peels, with nuances of sea salt, crunchy limestone, white tea – deep but it has this airy, breezy complexity, too. The palate is crisp and bright on a medium-bodied frame with some lovely depth of texture. The flavors of white peach, lemon curd, and green apples play well off tones of ocean spray, floral perfume, some honey butter, and white tea complexities. I’m a big fan of Grenache Blanc for its bright yet expressive appeal, and this is a lovely take. Includes a bit of Picpoul and Viognier. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Sparkling Picpoul Blanc Libelle - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $85
Bright lemon color with fine bubbles. The aromatic pop is so bright and floral, but shows layered depth, with lots of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust, with pie crust, over kiwi and green apples. The palate shows light body but plenty of creamy depth, and vibrant acidity, framing up the lemon, papaya, and green apple fruit. I love the racy, taut vibes, the minerals and chalk dust. The complexity is really delightful, and though it maintains this brisk appeal, there are a lot of layered, deeper elements to parse through. That flinty mineral element on the finish – lovely. A great idea for the holidays or in a blind tasting – I’d enjoy hearing the guesses from wine nerd friends. Picpoul made in the Champagne method. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. An expressive nose of raspberries and cranberry relish, with juicy black cherries, and nuances of violets, clove, warm clay, black pepper, and cedar and coffee grounds. Full-bodied but fresh and vibrant with a silky, pleasantly plush mouthfeel. Concentrated but clear fruit (raspberries, plums, cranberry relish, tart blueberries), and the fruit is mixed well with elements of spiced black tea, coffee grounds, roasted nuts, hints of cedar. Finishes with stony minerals and earth. A super cool blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tannat. Paso’s got the goods! (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Ancestor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District

SRP: $85
Deep purple color. A rich nose of blackberry, blueberry, tangy black cherries, tossed with spicy tobacco, earthy-sage tones, black pepper, and deeper elements of anise and mocha. Deep but vibrant, serious grip on the tannins but things are ironed out and seamed together nicely. A core of tart black currant and blueberries starts things off, and the non-fruit elements shine (black pepper, all sorts of soil and rocks, mineral/graphite accents, hints of barbecue sauce). A lot to parse through, this is focused and deep young but will age wonderfully, and those savory complexities will really pop. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 20% Malbec. (94 points)

Troon Vineyard

Anyone who has read my wine writing over the past decade has likely heard about Troon, located in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. This producer casts a wide net in terms of varieties and styles, with a serious commitment to the land. Dick Troon first planted vines out here in 1972, and their unique terroir along the Kubli Bench provides a beautiful canvas for their wide variety of bottlings. They’re regenerative organic certified, practice biodynamic farming and winemaking, along with carbon sequestration efforts. And their wines are consistently awesome, and somehow not that expensive.

I’m focusing on their Druid’s Red and White blends, which I think would be a great introduction into this producer’s approach and style. Like the seasons, the blends are different each year. They’re so food-friendly and crowd-pleasing, so they’d be a good call for holiday festivities.

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. A tropical, floral bouquet with pineapple, lemon curd, kiwi, and papaya, topped in chalk dusty, crunchy sea salt and river rocks, with honey and almond skin. The palate has a smooth texture and crisp acidity with green and yellow pears and apples, along with kiwi, mixed with orange blossom, dandelion, some sliced cucumber, and sea salt. There’s a focused mineral presence underneath as well. This is so much fun. This vintage is a blend of Vermentino, Marsanne, Lagniappe, and other grapes. (90 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. The aromas show a tangy compote of plums, raspberries, and tangy blueberries, along with violets, potting soil, some light roast coffee, and all sorts of herbs and spices. The palate is super zesty and bright, with tangy wild raspberries and strawberries, saucy plums, cranberry jam. I enjoy the clay and earth tones, with violets and herbal tea. So fun and juicy, crushable yet complex. A great combination. An exciting kitchen sink blend of grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Tannat, Negrette, and others. (90 points)

Gamble

Maybe I’m biased because my parents are, technically speaking, mill keepers. In the rural foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, they’ve rejuvenated an historic mill property from neglect and overgrowth over the past 15 years. That’s where I planted a failed vineyard, and spent countless days fishing, working the property, bird-watching, enjoying nature and family.

I’m always a supporter in wineries that take part in various charitable or actionable work on behalf of different conservation goals. And this brand is a supporter of the National Parks Conservation Association and a partner of one Napa Valley’s Bale Grist Mill State Park. This wine is delicious, reasonably-priced, and one worth sharing or gifting.

Gamble’s higher-end Napa Cabs are real gems. I’ve been a fan of them for many years, and they’re the type of Napa Cabernet that is delicious upon first taste and keeps rolling out the nuance and complexity over the course of hours or days. If you’re gifting a Napa Cab lover (or just buying for yourself), I’d go for two – one for this season, and one to bury and forget about for five to eight years.

Non-Vintage Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California

SRP: $26
Light purple color. A warm and inviting nose of roasted figs, tangy red currants, sweet black cherries, along with scents of coffee, toffee, smoky earth, and chewing tobacco. The palate is ripe and plush but shows good depth and texture, with chewy tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy plums, juicy raspberries, and spiced cranberry relish. Notes of coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, and some cool earthy, tobacco, and sage tones. A crowd-pleasing, fun, but balanced Cab that’s a blend of vintages and Napa sites. (90 points)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60 

Rich purple color. Aromas of warm currant and fig compote, with tangy black cherries, vibrant and deep fruit, mixed with complex tones of peppered steak, dried violets, tobacco, and a host of rocky, mineral, smoky earth, and charcoal vibes to parse through. Suave, juicy, well-structured tannins, the palate is kept aloft by vibrant acidity, and I get flavors of black currants, roasted fig, and blackberries. The complexities of roasted red pepper, sage, grilled steak, and dried flowers offer a lot of deliciousness and intrigue. This has a long life ahead, and I really look forward to where these savory tones go, and to see this wine resolve into a beauty. Drink now with a good decant or let it sit for five or eight years. Includes 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, and 3% Malbec aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months. (94 points)