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Thursday, December 21, 2023

Spreading holiday cheer with Port, Prosecco, and Napa wine

The holiday travel, juggling work and time off, family gatherings – it’s all in full swing and it can all be a lot. But I have a host a wine selections this week that would make either/or: 1) a great last-minute gift; 2) wonderful choice for ringing in the New Year; 3) fun and delicious wine to have around this winter.

I’m a big fan of Port, and the diversity of styles allows for palates of all type to explore and find something to enjoy. And during cold winter nights a glass of Port is an enriching experience. Graham’s is a Port lodge with a long and respected history, and like other large houses, they put out a wide range of styles. If you’re not sure which one you like, or you just want to experience different styles, Graham’s has a great little idea. It’s a three-pack of 200ml bottles that includes their Six Grapes (a ruby style), the 10-Year Tawny, and the 20-Year Tawny Port. This sampler pack is available for $55 and a worthy purchase for yourself or as a gift.



Bubbles are always on tap at my holiday gatherings (Champagne mostly). But I am no longer a Prosecco hater. The growth demand for these Italian bubbles in the U.S. in the past means higher quality wines are easier to find (at least that’s my experience). The supermarket brands are everywhere, but I’ve found a gem of a bargain. It’s a lot better than some more expensive peers, and would be a great holiday treat.

And to top things off, I had to include some killer Napa reds. Each year for at least the last decade, I’ve opened a Napa Cab during a delicious home-cooked meal with family – always during that glorious period between December 24 and January 1. Napa is king for a reason, and I want to share two new-to-me wines that wowed me recently, a Cab and a Syrah. They’re from Hoopes Vineyard, based in Oakville. Owner Lindsay Hoopes grew up on a farm and among the vines of Oakville, and the winery includes a regenerative farm and animal sanctuary. And the wines? They rock. I’m glad I found out about this producer, and the end of the year seems like a great time to share them.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Graham Porto Six Grapes Reserve - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Ripe purple color. The nose exudes roasted figs and plum cake tossed together with violets, coffee, toffee, milk and dark chocolate bars. On the palate, I get a smooth, slightly chewy mouthfeel with moderating acidity. Ripe but nuanced flavors of chocolate-covered raisins, fig paste, sweet plum sauce, even some candied orange peel. Notes of sweet coffee, toffee, and violets add a nice kick, and there’s even some nuanced earth tones. That undeniably fun, juicy, ripe, and pleasant ruby style. (88 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
A rich tawny color with classic, deep aromas of roasted figs, golden raisins, sweet plums, and candied orange peels, along with coffee, toffee, and scents of almond cake and roasted pecans. The palate is sweet and plush with a rich texture and medium acidity. Delicious flavors of golden raisins, fig and currant compote, prunes, accented with toasted peanuts and candied pecans, with a salted caramel and honeyed finish. Undeniably delicious, and a great intro into the tawny style at a great price. (90 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 20 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Deep tawny color. An even richer and more complex aromatic display, with roasted figs, dried orange peels, mixed with caramel, dried honey, sweet espresso, ginger snap cookies, and crumb cake. The palate is ripe and dense but stays enlivened with moderate acidity. Lovely flavors of pear butter, raspberry jam, dried apple slices, with all sorts of nuanced nutty, honeyed, salty, and crème brulee elements. Warm but invigorating, a lovely cold night sip with friends. (92 points)

N.V. Danzante Prosecco Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $8
Slight copper color. A bright and chalky nose with crushed sweet tarts over top of lemon, ruby red grapefruit, and lots of white and yellow flowers. On the palate, this Prosecco is racy and vibrant with fresh acid, fine bubbles, and flavors of ruby red grapefruit, green and yellow apples and pears. Notes of crushed sweet tarts and seashells add complexity. Fun, vibrant, balanced sugar, with a nice salty kick. Screaming value. (89 points)

2018 Hoopes Vineyard Syrah Sophie’s Block - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $50

Deep purple color. Dark plum and blackberries on the nose, so juicy and dark, with smoky earth, black pepper, violets, along with some potting soil and rocky earth. Richly textured on the palate, solid grip all around, but the acidity is lively and fresh. Flavors of saucy black cherries and tangy wild blueberries, and the fruit is accented with delightful notes of black olive, cracked pepper, a lot of savory spices. Earthy, tar, graphite, and mineral tones linger long on the finish. Savory, juicy, vibrant, spicy, this will improve greatly with five years in the cellar. (93 points)

2018 Hoopes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $125
Dark purple color. An intoxicating nose of black currants, blueberries, fig paste, with rich earth, savory spices, dried rose petals, along with graphite, cedar, and rocky soil – really needs time and air to coax out the full range. The palate sports a bold texture with grippy but fine-edged tannins and vibrant acidity that keeps the lips smacking. The fruit is a mix of zesty currant, wild blueberry, and suave black cherries, accented with complexities of graphite, cedar, coffee grounds, tobacco, and leather. Deep but fresh, this will be a long-ager, and while it’s impressive now, it will reward the patient in the cellar. (94 points)

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