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Thursday, September 5, 2024

Discovering Mount Langi Ghiran’s exciting Australian wines

I’ve been visiting wine regions and writing about wine for about 15 years now. In that time, I’ve had come upon countless discoveries. Those “Aha!” moments when I stumble across some producer who’s been working hard in their own unique site for many years, expressing wines that entice and reward the searcher. And I love how many new (to me) discoveries are still out there. Like Mount Langi Ghiran from Australia’s the remote Grampians region.

Started in 1969 by the Fratins, the estate is located in this cooler area of Western Victoria. They tend to 170 acres of estate vines, all own-rooted, planted in granite sands and red clay loam. The north-south valley helps protect their wines from the heat extremes, and the cold Southern Ocean winds get funneled in, keeping things lively and bright.

Credit: Mount Langi Ghiran

Chief Winemaker Adam Louder grew up just a few miles from the estate, and kicked off his career there in the cellar during high school before doing stints in Napa, Bordeaux, and other regions. He must really have his home turf dialed in, because these wines speak so clearly and honestly.

As a climber, I’m very familiar and attracted to cliff edges. And these Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge wines do give me a shot of that verve and intrigue that warrants the name.

If served these three Mount Langi Ghiran wines double-blind, I like to think I would walk away with these three thoughts: 1) These wines are undoubtedly Australian. 2) They have a verve, depth, and vibrancy that indicates something special is going on here. 3) I would have guessed their prices to be doubled.

This was my first time with this producer, but it won’t be my last, as I’ll seek out these wines in the future. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Billi Billi - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $16
Medium purple color. The nose has a juicy, dark blend of plums, blackberries, and blueberries, topped in notes of barbecue sauce, grilled steak with cracked black pepper, and notes of earth and dried violets. The palate shows a cool mix of tangy blue and juicy red fruits, mixed with complex notes of black tea, barbecue sauce, violets, pepper, and oregano. Juicy but fresh and balanced. So fun and spicy, this is a delicious summer grill out kind of Shiraz that’ll please most anyone. (90 points)

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. A rich but inviting aromatic display of roasted digs, plum cakes, blueberry jam, with black tea, violets, anise, and sandalwood. The palate is full but suave with integrated tannins and tangy acidity. The fruit is pure and vibrant (wild blueberries, red and black currants, roasted figs), and blends really well with these spicy tones of black pepper, paprika, and anise, with earth, dark chocolate shavings, and graphite. Delicious now but I’d love to see how this ages. (92 points)

2023 Mount Langi Ghiran Riesling Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. The nose is fresh and bright with lemon but also juicier tones of pineapple and honey, with some green herbs and mint, some talc and chalk too. The palate sports creamy depth and tingly acidity with flavors of lemon, papaya, and juicy white peach. There’s a good blend of saline, quinine, daisies, basil, all sorts of fresh, floral, pleasantly herbal tones. Very pretty, versatile, and shows a lot of complexity. Aussie Rieslings like this here are just wonderful, and the price point is great. From 45-year-old own-rooted vines. (91 points)

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