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Sunday, December 17, 2023

Brengman Brothers excel with crisp, complex Michigan wines

If you’re looking to branch out from the big states of American wine (and you should be), Michigan wine is an amazing place to start. Specifically, Brengman Brothers. Especially if you’re a fan of German, Austrian, or Alsatian wines and are looking to get excited about a new-to-you American producer excelling in wines similar to those styles.

I’ve tasted through a wide range of this producer’s lineup (which is quite extensive and evolving), and have been intrigued by what I’ve found. These wines hail from Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula American Viticultural Area, which is located on northwest Lower Michigan. The state’s second AVA, approved in 1982, this region benefits from the lake effect’s moderating temperature, given the proximity to Lake Michigan, Grand Traverse Bay, and Lake Leelanau. Sandy, loamy, well-drained soils provide deep-rooted vines of many different types to thrive here.

Credit: Brengman Brothers
These estate wines are able to translate that vibrant, lean, mineral-infused vibe I look for in cooler-climate wines, but they have tons of nuanced, perfectly ripe, tropical and other fruits – the best of both worlds.

Brengman is the project of brothers Ed and Robert, who purchased their Crain Hill Vineyard in 2003. They’ve been going through growth spurts ever since. I appreciated the winery's straightforward mission statement: “The goal has always been to develop a Leelanau terroir with an old-world spirit that, through time, becomes the benchmark for the region.” I think they can pat themselves on the back for coming a long way in meeting that goal.

It’s not easy to make exciting, “real” wines at affordable prices, but Brengman makes it easier to venture out without spending too much. Specifically, the Pet-Nats around the holidays seem like a great purchase for parties or gifts. And the Riesling and Chard would be great on the holiday table or as ringers in a blind tasting with wine nerd friends. And they seem to have quite a beautiful tasting room and kitchen that I surely plan to visit if I find myself near Traverse City, Michigan.

Whatever you’re sipping and serving, happy holidays to you and yours! Thanks for stopping by and I wish you health and happiness.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Brengman Brothers Wild Card Pet Nat Rosé - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $27
Light watermelon color. The nose pops with talc and sea salt, basil, white pepper, along with crunchy red apples, strawberries, wild raspberries, and lemons. The palate is vibrant and zesty with a precise, bracing feel, and light bubbles and body. Flavors of white peach, wild raspberries, crunchy McIntosh apples. Nuances of minerals, floral perfume, sea salt, and some basil and mint. Summery fun for any time of the year! A 50/50 split of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (89 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Wild Card Pet Nat - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $27
Light yellow color with lively effervescence. So vibrant on the nose, peachy keen with notes of cantaloupe and honeydew melon rinds, floral perfume, flinty minerals, honeysuckles and daisies. The palate is a zippy and taut affair with a light body and a crunchy, lip-smacking appeal. Flavors of candied lemon peel and melon rind blend well with notes of sea salt and minerals. Airy and breezy with all sorts of cool floral and spice tones (dandelion, daisies, nettle, mint, white tea). Vibrant, crunchy, this has a lot of personality. A Pet-Nat of Riesling and Gewurz -- this is super cool, a ton of fun, but also complex and balanced. (90 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Riesling Trocken Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $32
Light yellow color. The aromas show brightly with crunchy green apples and green melon, drizzled in limes, with a host of other scents: honeysuckle, dandelion, some crushed shells. Really makes the mouth water, and then the palate follows through with zippy acidity and a plush texture. Focused and crisp, with flavors of lime, white peaches, green pears, and the fruit is topped in crushed sweet tarts, notes of sea shells, flinty minerals, and some floral perfume on the finish. A clear and vibrant Riesling that is delicious and would be so versatile with all sorts of food. Made with wild yeast, this is a blend of three lots of Riesling fermented in stainless steel, concrete, and French oak. (91 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Block 65 Blend Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $32
Medium yellow color. The nose pops with peaches, papaya, yellow apples, along with all sorts of orange blossom, dandelion, with flinty minerals and chalk dust. The palate has this delightfully plush texture matched with spritely acidity. A fruit salad welcomes the taster with cantaloupe, white peach, nectarine, along with complex and nuanced tones of dandelion, basil, mint. Notes of stony minerals and river rocks add a refreshing zip, and there’s some honeyed floral tea to round things out. Balanced, clear, and focused, a delightful wild ferment blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, and Pinot Gris. (90 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Timberlee Vineyard USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $35
Medium yellow color. A cool nose of rich guava, papaya, and quince, with salted lemon, yellow flowers, and racy tones of chalk dust and bright, breezy spring fields. The palate has a great combination of juicy texture and racy acidity, and the wire-balancing act is executed so well. Lemons and quince, some ripe yellow and crunchy green apples. The fruit meets these honeyed, richer vibes with mineral precision and hints of green herbs and white flowers. Finishes with such stony, herbal, rushing river essence. Impressive expression of place and an expertly done take on this classic Sauv Blanc/Semillon blend. (92 points)

2020 Brengman Brothers Chardonnay Artist's Series - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $N/A
Vibrant yellow color. Ripe and juicy on the nose with yellow pears and apple butter, along with lemon curd, almond, and peanut brittle, along with scents of yellow flowers and hay. The palate is richly textured but medium bodied with moderate acidity and flavors of yellow pears and apples. The balance is really nice between the richer elements (hazelnut, lemon crème, whipped honey) with notes of minerals and sea salt. Deep but racy with harmonious flavors. Lovely Chardonnay (and Robert is an awesome winemaker and painter – his art is on the label). Aged 12 months in new French oak. (90 points)

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