Fortified wines for Autumnal times

I am so stoked about Autumn! Here in the Mid-Atlantic the leaves are peaking and I’ve been waking up early on cool, crisp mornings whenever possible to go birdwatching, hiking, climbing, really anything outside. It’s all wonderful to me this time of year.

October in Shenandoah National Park.

Halloween is just around the corner as well, and sugary sweets and spooky fun abounds. Don’t worry – I’m not writing about pairing wine with Halloween candy. No thanks. But, this week I want to highlight some frightfully delicious fortified wines that would make a great adult treat for this time of year.

Tawny Port is such a fun style, from the younger, more accessible – but highly delicious – offerings, to the richer, nuttier, more savory styles of longer-aged wines, there’s a lot of unique flavors and variations to explore. To start, I think it works best to pick a producer and see if their style aligns with your palate.

Dow’s is one of my favorite Port houses, ever since I bought two 2003 Vintage Ports upon release – the first time I spent more than $80 on a bottle of wine. (They’re still both sleeping, of course, and will for years to come.) While their Vintage Ports are well-known and heralded, the Tawnies really rock, too. And this week I have three to choose from. 

And I can’t forget Sherry. But let’s focus on a dry wine, shall we? The Tio Pepe brand from Gonzalez-Byass offers several of these Spanish delicacies, but their dry Palomino Fino is bright, zesty, and makes for such pleasant sipping. Bring out the bleu cheese and Marcona almonds for this one. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

Dow’s 10-Year Tawny Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $45
Rich, deep ruby/tawny color. The nose exudes roasted figs, sweet dates, candied pecans, along with toffee, notes of honeyed tea, and some clove and light roast coffee. The palate is rich and suave with a mouthfeel moderated by the acidity, and flavors of yellow raisins, plum compote, and dried mango. Sweet but vibrant tannins with nuances of black tea, salted caramel, milk chocolate, and toffee. So smooth and pleasant. (91 points)

Dow’s 20-Year Tawny Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $78
Beautiful amber color. The nose smells of warm rooibos tea, caramel, apple pie, along with clove, roasted nuts, toffee, and hints of earth and clay. The palate is plush and sweet with a lovely depth of texture and fresh acidity to keep things balanced out nicely. Flavors of fig paste, apple butter, candied orange peels, along with nuances of toffee, dark chocolate, and some cigar box. Suave, deep, complex, yet refreshing and so fun to sip. Lovely stuff. (93 points)

Dow’s 30-Year Tawny Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $175
Deep auburn color. The nose is exquisite, as the nuances and depth are dialed up even more. I get dates, figs, candied apple, orange peel, along with toasted nuts, vanilla bean, cinnamon crumb cake, and salted caramel – lovely! The palate is suave, rich, and deep yet expressive and vibrant, and balanced wonderfully. Baked figs, dates, and yellow raisins for days. The fruit is backed up with honey, black tea, salted caramel, cinnamon crumb cake, crème brulee, and even some cool black tea, leather, and cigar shop tones. Harmonious, expressive, and simply beautiful. A sip of this lasts for a really long time. This on a cold night with some loved ones – a perfect idea. (95 points)

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Palomino Fino Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Tío Pepe (Muy Seco-Extra Dry) - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromas of oyster shell, salt brine, lemon, quince, papaya, with elements of corn husk, candle wax, and almond skin – a lot to sniff, ponder, and enjoy. The palate shows racy acidity with a briny, spicy appeal and a creamy, waxy texture. Flavors of lemon, orange peel, and green apple, and the fruit is laced with tones of almond, honey, oyster shells, crushed limestone, and sea salt. Fun, bright, dry, bracing, but shows delightful texture and complexity, and finishes with tones of green herbs and white tea. Delicious, versatile, would be good at pretty much any time and for any occasion. And a great value. (90 points)

Digging into Paso Roble's Broken Earth

I’ve only visited California’s Paso Robles wine country once, and toured a lot in a few days, and I have the fondest memories. I often wish to return to visit new wineries, relive the love, and score more waves on the nearby Central Coast.

The diverse soils, the hills, the microclimates, it all fascinated me, and helped explain why certain Paso wines just hit differently. And the wine folks who live there are scrappy, tough, really smart, and willing to experiment. All sorts of vines find their way in this varied terrain, and I’ve found lots of joy in Mediterranean white wines, Spanish reds, Italian blends, and other unexpected varietal wines.

Recently, Broken Earth rekindled that Paso spark for me. Broken Earth was established in 1973, and celebrates the heritage of the Continental Vineyard property, which was originally named Rancho Tierra Rejada, or “land of worked earth.” They have a large portfolio with what seems like a bunch of interesting wines. I was happy to taste through the trio of their “CV” wines – which are their allocated, higher-end wines made only in certain vintages.

These wines allow winemaker Chris Cameron to shine. An Australian by birth, he’s worked harvests for four decades and first showed up in Paso in 2007. And he’s got a lot of great fruit with which to work his blending prowess.

Also of note: they’re also a California Certified Sustainable Vineyard, and seem to take stewardship seriously, so that’s always a great thing. And as a big owl nerd, I’m a fan of any vineyard that utilizes owl boxes!

Check out these wines below, which I received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Broken Earth Winery Studium Red CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $80
Deep purple color. The nose is so inviting with black currant, fig paste, black cherries, accented with sage, tobacco, mint, along with deep stony, graphite, coffee grounds, and cocoa nibs. The palate is structured but silky with crisp acidity, smooth tannins, and deep flavors of mulled cherries and plum fruit. I get a lot of spicy herbs, black pepper, and barbecue sauce, with dried violets and hints of clove. Complex, saucy, savory, and a lot underlying minerals, earth, and graphite. A decant is a good idea if drinking now, but this will also age very well. (92 points)

2019 Broken Earth Winery Cabernet Franc CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $80
Bright purple color. A deep yet integrated nose of red and black currants and cherries, mixed with plenty of roasted red pepper, bay leaf, tobacco, black pepper, and grilled steaks – really cool stuff to sniff. The palate is full and suave and shows a solid core of tannins along with fresh acidity. I get black currants and saucy cherries, dark but crunchy fruit, and a host of fascinating savory tones: mesquite, sage, anise, black pepper, leather, incense sticks – there’s so much to parse through. Expressive with air but this will age wonderfully, and I’d like to revisit in like eight years. Excellent Paso Cab Franc! (93 points)

2019 Broken Earth Winery Cabernet Sauvignon CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $80
Dark purple color. The nose is a dense display of currant, plum cake, and roasted figs, but it opens to show savory spices, dried violets, potting soil, tar, tobacco, and some dark chocolate shavings. On the palate, this is rich and full but shows nice grip, balanced with lively acidity. The black cherry, wild blueberry, and plum compote flavors blend really well with the graphite, charcoal, spicy herbs, and earthy tones. Suave, full, but deep and vibrant. This really needs some time in the cellar to unfold, but even now it tells a great story. (93 points)

Exploring wine, birds, and heritage with Meyye Wines

A male Ana's hummingbird I saw in the Superstitions, Arizona

I love exploring California wineries, especially when something new pops up and catches my attention. That was the case immediately with Meyye Wines. And continuing from last week’s post, I wanted to share three wines from this California producer.

The winery pays homage to Rob Campbell’s heritage as a member of the Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo tribe. Rob started Meyye Wines just two years ago, after working at Story Winery in the Sierra Foothills. The winey focuses on four releases, each from a different area of Northern California.

Meyye is the Coast Miwok word for bird, and as an avid birder, I’m a huge fan of the labels and idea behind each wine. “I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it,” Campbell says.

As you can tell, I value the motivation behind a wine, the story of the people involved, and their aesthetic approach and goals. But the most important factor is the quality of the wine in the glass. And in that realm, Meyye is legit.

Each of the releases I’ve tried blends together accessibility in youth with serious aging potential. You can get a sneak peak of how these wines will perform in the cellar with their 2016 Zin. Crisp, crunchy, integrated, savory, silky, but still so much life and verve for years to come.

If you like California wines with nuance, intrigue, and a great story, Meyye is certainly worth exploring. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Meyye Wines Chardonnay Kuluppis - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $55

Light yellow color. A fascinating mix of deep and bright aromas (golden apples and pears, lemon zest and orange peel) with plenty of ocean breeze, sea salt, and floral perfume. Delightful creaminess on the palate, with focused acidity, it combines for a balanced and racy wine, with flavors of lemon curd, orange peel, and kiwi. A sense of rushing stream minerals pervades, with talc, seashells, and those richer notes of honey and almond round out the finish. Beautiful stuff to drink now or hold for four or five years. From the Sangiacomo Family’s Kiser Ranch Vineyard, fermented in 50/50 stainless steel and oak, 100% malolactic fermentation and aging in oak. Kuluppis is the Coast Miwok word for the Ana’s hummingbird. (93 points)

2019 Meyye Wines Sokootok - USA, California, Sierra Foothills
SRP: $60
Rich light purple color. Saucy and spicy on the nose, with raspberry jam, tangy plums, blackberry, plenty of roasted red pepper, anise, tobacco, incense, and clove – just a fruity, savory display. Full and ripe on the palate, with smooth tannins and vibrant acidity. Blackberry, cherry jam, roasted figs, the fruit combines so well with the flavors of sauteed portobello mushrooms, black pepper, tobacco, accented with some coffee and dark chocolate. I’d love to see this age over the next five years or so. A delightful, stylish, savory blend of Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Counoise, Zinfandel, from selected sites in Amador County, this is an exceptional wine to treat like a Chateauneuf-du-Pape and open on a cold night with some savory food and good friends. Sokootok is the Coast Miwok word for the California Quail. (93 points)

2016 Meyye Wines Zinfandel Palachchak - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $50
Rich purple color. The nose shows a potpourri of savory and floral tones over deep fruit (black cherry, saucy plums, some spiced cranberry relish) with notes of violets, leather, spiced black tea, with some cool barbecue, black pepper, and paprika tones. The palate is suave and juicy with dusty tannins and lively acidity, keeping this wine forward but fresh. Spiced cranberry sauce with mulled black cherries and currants, the fruit is mixed well with complex tones of herbal tea, dried rose petals. There are some cool graphite and mineral tones as well; I love the complexity and subtleties that are coming out as this wine ages. Palachchak is the Coast Miwok word for the California Acorn Woodpecker, one of my favorite birds. 90% Zinfandel and 10% Syrah, 24 months in 40% new American & French oak barrels. (92 points)

Welcoming Autumn with California Pinot Noir

It’s almost officially Autumn and I am stoked. I’ve been spending a ton of time outdoors lately – climbing, hiking, birdwatching, doing some landscape photography – and the cooler, crisp mornings are like cold water to a parched palate for me.

I’m not a pumpkin spice person (no judgment), but I am waiting on a cooler weekend to make my first soup of the season. And for those light sweater weather days, after a hike or a day climbing, I will certainly be opening some California Pinot Noir.

I can't wait for days like this. Shenandoah National Park, October 2023

Yes, they’re good any time of year, but I love combing Autumnal weather and foods with some exquisite California Pinots – that mix of ripe fruit, with all the earth and floral tones I love. For me, I need a Pinot with some zip to it, and I tend toward the more red-fruited wines with savory tones.

This week, I want to highlight two such Pinots from Sonoma-Cutrer and Meyye Wines. I’m a big fan of Sonoma-Cutrer’s line of Chards, but this Winemaker Release Les Plus Haut cuvee really shows how they make Pinot Noir sing.

Meyye Wines is a thrilling new producer to watch. After making wine at Story Winery in the Sierra Foothills, Rom Campbell kicked off this project in 2022, making four wines from select sites across California. Their Pinot is delicious and unique, with a long life of development ahead. The bird nerd in me is excited about their labels, each of which honors a native bird of the region in its Native American Miwok name. The label art is fantastic, and the wines back it up with poise and beauty.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Les Plus Haut - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Juicy ruby color. Deep but vibrant aromas of black cherries, red plums, raspberries, with a host of floral, earthy, and spice nuances: rose petals, white pepper, tobacco, some anise, and black tea. This is a refreshing and juicy wine on the palate with smooth tannins and crisp acidity. Ripe but nuanced fruit, with raspberry jam, juicy plums, mixed with all sorts of cool notes like rose hips, rooibos tea, and some earthy tones. Lots of depth and complexity but also just a ton of fun and deliciousness. From the highest blocks of the estate vineyards Owsley Ranch and Vine Hill. (92 points)

2021 Meyye Wines Pinot Noir 'Omay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap

SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. An airy, inviting, yet complex aromatic display of rhubarb, rose petals, and tobacco, over ripe cherries, strawberries, tangy red currants, with some earth and leathery tones to boot. The palate is ripe but tangy with dusty tannins making for a moderately-framed wine that’s zippy and bright, but shows juicy, tangy fruit (raspberries, red currants, strawberries). The non-fruit complexities add a lot to enjoy: white pepper, warm clay, dusty earth, minerals, oregano, tobacco, leather, anise. The balance and freshness is crystalline, and I love how this wine is developing over time. Very interested to see where it goes in another three to five years. A beautiful iteration of one of my favorite California Pinot vineyards. (93 points)

Discovering Mount Langi Ghiran’s exciting Australian wines

I’ve been visiting wine regions and writing about wine for about 15 years now. In that time, I’ve had come upon countless discoveries. Those “Aha!” moments when I stumble across some producer who’s been working hard in their own unique site for many years, expressing wines that entice and reward the searcher. And I love how many new (to me) discoveries are still out there. Like Mount Langi Ghiran from Australia’s the remote Grampians region.

Started in 1969 by the Fratins, the estate is located in this cooler area of Western Victoria. They tend to 170 acres of estate vines, all own-rooted, planted in granite sands and red clay loam. The north-south valley helps protect their wines from the heat extremes, and the cold Southern Ocean winds get funneled in, keeping things lively and bright.

Credit: Mount Langi Ghiran

Chief Winemaker Adam Louder grew up just a few miles from the estate, and kicked off his career there in the cellar during high school before doing stints in Napa, Bordeaux, and other regions. He must really have his home turf dialed in, because these wines speak so clearly and honestly.

As a climber, I’m very familiar and attracted to cliff edges. And these Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge wines do give me a shot of that verve and intrigue that warrants the name.

If served these three Mount Langi Ghiran wines double-blind, I like to think I would walk away with these three thoughts: 1) These wines are undoubtedly Australian. 2) They have a verve, depth, and vibrancy that indicates something special is going on here. 3) I would have guessed their prices to be doubled.

This was my first time with this producer, but it won’t be my last, as I’ll seek out these wines in the future. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Billi Billi - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $16
Medium purple color. The nose has a juicy, dark blend of plums, blackberries, and blueberries, topped in notes of barbecue sauce, grilled steak with cracked black pepper, and notes of earth and dried violets. The palate shows a cool mix of tangy blue and juicy red fruits, mixed with complex notes of black tea, barbecue sauce, violets, pepper, and oregano. Juicy but fresh and balanced. So fun and spicy, this is a delicious summer grill out kind of Shiraz that’ll please most anyone. (90 points)

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians

SRP: $28
Deep purple color. A rich but inviting aromatic display of roasted digs, plum cakes, blueberry jam, with black tea, violets, anise, and sandalwood. The palate is full but suave with integrated tannins and tangy acidity. The fruit is pure and vibrant (wild blueberries, red and black currants, roasted figs), and blends really well with these spicy tones of black pepper, paprika, and anise, with earth, dark chocolate shavings, and graphite. Delicious now but I’d love to see how this ages. (92 points)

2023 Mount Langi Ghiran Riesling Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. The nose is fresh and bright with lemon but also juicier tones of pineapple and honey, with some green herbs and mint, some talc and chalk too. The palate sports creamy depth and tingly acidity with flavors of lemon, papaya, and juicy white peach. There’s a good blend of saline, quinine, daisies, basil, all sorts of fresh, floral, pleasantly herbal tones. Very pretty, versatile, and shows a lot of complexity. Aussie Rieslings like this here are just wonderful, and the price point is great. From 45-year-old own-rooted vines. (91 points)

Merry Edwards continues to shine with 2022s

I’ve been a huge fan of the Sonoma Pinots from Merry Edwards. For many years, I’ve visited the winery, cellared some wines, received their releases, and written about them.

And in such dynamic and uncertain times, I find it a respite to return to their wines and be reminded of the timeless style and quality.

Since Merry Edwards retired and her mentor Heidi Von Der Mehden picked up the winemaking role in 2020, the wines have continued on a streak of no misses. And the 2022 vintage is delightful. The wines seem smooth, concentrated, but vibrant.

The Pinots shine across the board, and you can pretty much take your pick. But it’s a total delight to parse through the intricacies of the different vineyards.

These Pinot pros, who also boast their classic and masterful Sauv Blanc and a delicious Olivet Lane Chardonnay, are now crushing it with this new Anderson Valley Chardonnay as well. Sourced from sites around the valley, it gives balanced but deep Chard-lovers something to contemplate, and I think it’s a very good addition to their portfolio, especially for the price. Hat’s off!

Of course, each person will have their unique favorite, but you can’t can go wrong with anything in this lineup. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir -­ USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
Ripe purple color. Fun and inviting nose of saucy cherries, strawberry rhubarb pie, along with roses, roasted chestnut, coffee grounds, some pine, and oak. Acidity is great and the chewy tannins provide structure to the palate while the fresh fruit shines through clearly (raspberries, strawberry jam, black cherries). Nuances of rhubarb, dark chocolate, and sweet baking spices add complexity. Suave, nuanced, but also highly delicious and accessible. A very nice, crowd-pleasing intro to their style. Aged 10 months in 53% new French oak. (92 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Georganne - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $70
Light purple color. The aromas are rich and vibrant with complex currants, plums, and strawberries, along with sage, earth, tobacco, some violet petals, and nuanced black pepper and soy tones. On the palate, this sports fine-edged tannins that give it just the right amount of grip, and the acidity is zesty and alive. Red plums, pomegranate, black cherries, and juicy strawberry, the fruit is pure and delicious and backed up with notes of mint, earth, clove, black pepper, black olive. Nuances of oak and dried flowers. This is vibrant and refined but shows a lot of aging potential as well. I love this darker, saucier vineyard, but the wine is super fresh, too. Aged 10 months in 52% new oak. (94 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. The nose pops with spicy, herbal tones (white pepper, clove, tobacco, oregano) over top of juicy raspberries and black cherries, summer plums, along with notes of cola, rhubarb, and sarsaparilla. Suave tannins on the palate, a chewy but lively vibe with fresh acidity, and delicious fruit (strawberries, black cherries, cranberry relish). There are all sorts of floral and savory nuances to coax out as well: violets and roses, spiced black tea, clay soil, with hints of cola and oak. This one will reward the patient in the cellar, but the youthful deliciousness is undeniable. Aged 10 months in 58% new French oak. (94 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Dach Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant ruby color. Deep but expressive aromas – I get raspberry jam, black cherries, dark plums, along with clove, dark soil, black tea, and eucalyptus. The palate has a smooth but structured feel, balanced acidity, and juicy cherry, strawberry, and red currant fruit. I’m getting a cool mix of non-fruit elements: a lot of spicy Italian herbs, coffee grounds, and some earthy-mineral tones. Loving the dark, spicy, complexity here, and look forward to seeing how this integrates over the next five to ten years. This recent Anderson Valley addition to their portfolio is worth checking out. Aged 10 months in 54% new French oak. (93 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Gushing aromatic display of ripe red cherries and raspberries, with roses and violets, rhubarb, all sorts of white pepper, black tea, mint, and menthol complexities. Dusty tannins and spritely acidity make for a structured and balanced wine on the palate, with crunchy red cherries and strawberries, sweet red and black plums. The depth and integration of the savory components is really great, with these leather, earth, tobacco, paprika, pine, and mint elements all competing for attention yet marbled together wonderfully. Beautiful and youthful but, again, this will gain all sorts of nuance over the next decade, etc. The first vineyard-designated Pinot of theirs, and the hits keep coming. (94 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Chardonnay - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. The nose is juicy and complex with white peaches, yellow apples, apricot, along with saline, almond, graham cracker, some yellow flowers and honey. The palate shows a- ripe and plush texture, buttressed by crisp acidity, and lots a delicious fruit salad of yellow apples, pears, apricot, and orange peel. The honey, graham cracker, and nougat notes are subtle and woven in well with the minerals, mountain stream, crushed chalk, and honey elements. Rich but pure, ripe but racy, the flavors are firing and it never feels heavy. I get this elegant mineral and pistachio note on the finish. Well done, and a really solid value.Aged 10 months in 31% new French oak. (93 points)