Wine Reviews: Italian Values

If you’re doing a dry January – congratulations! You’re halfway through. Whether you’re imbibing this month or not, the post-holiday season is a nice time to take stock of things, and to stock up on some options for the cellar.

Late last year, I tasted through a half-dozen Italian reds that got me thinking: “Wow, I’d be happy with six apiece of these in my cellar.” From Marche to Puglia, these wines come from well-known, family-owned producers and offer a lot of diversity. They’re all imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, which has amassed an impressive portfolio and imports directly from the producers themselves. So, if you’re resolving to save money in 2023, I bet at least a few of these delicious reds would fit the bill perfectly.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2021 Garofoli Rosso Piceno “Farnio” – Italy, Marche, Rosso Piceno
SRP: $13
Bright purple color. Saucy nose with a cool mix of jammy blueberries, juicy raspberries and blackberries, along with some dried rose petals and pepper, and an almost Beaujolais-esque blend of bubblegum and violets – lots of fun. Juicy, dark and ripe on the palate, this has smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, supporting juicy blackberry and blueberry fruit. I like the graphite, mint, smoke and earthy nuances. Chewy but lively, this is a lot of fun. And, after all, fun is a good thing. A blend of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Sangiovese. (88 points IJB)

2021 Masseria Li Veli “Orion” Salento IGT – Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT

SRP: $15
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with red cherries, juicy plums and jammy raspberries, along with spicy, smoky, tar and barbecue sauce elements, which are a lot of fun. Ripe tannins and medium acidity, this wine sports a ripe and juicy appeal with black cherries and raspberry jam. The mix of spice and earth tones offers a lot to enjoy and ponder, including notes of pepperoni, mesquite, mocha and some toasted oak. Fun and fan-friendly, but it shows a lot of complexity, too. (89 points)

2020 Casanova di Neri “IrRosso di Casanova di Neri” – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. Lovely aromas of bright red currants, jammy raspberries, laced with an enticing mix of spicy tobacco, sweet rose petals, clove, bay leaf and cracked pepper. The palate is ripe and juicy but balanced and nuanced, with dusty tannins and tangy acidity. The fruit shows tangy raspberries and deep currant fruit, and it has a sense of vibrancy and balance. The notes of clay, tilled soil, leather, clove, dried roses and pepper add a lot to enjoy and contemplate. Complex yet accessible, this is a great intro to this house’s wines, and could be a great option for a case buy/house wine of your own if you’re a fan of this style. Sangiovese with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2019 Aia Vecchia “Lagone” – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $17
Deep purple color. Spicy nose showing earth, tobacco and mint, with deep elements of blackberries and currants, some chocolate and coffee tones as well. Full on the palate, a chewy feel balanced by lively acidity. Saucy currant and roasted plum fruit blends well with cocoa, coffee grounds, tobacco, mint. The earthy, spicy and mushroom tones come out with time. Fun, fresh, but shows a solid amount of complexity. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. (89 points)

2018 Tenuta di Capezzana “Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano” – Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $32
Vibrant purple color. Lovely nose of currants and black cherries, mixed with mulling spices, leather, violets, spiced black tea, and it’s all warm, deep, inviting and savory. The palate shows nice grip but the tannins have rounded edges, buttressed by medium acidity. Deep currants and black cherry fruit, tossed with fallen leaves, clay, loamy earth and plenty of spice and savory nuance. Nice concentration but opens up well, and I love the complexities of stones, mineral, campfire and grilled meat. This is cold weather and braised meat sort of wine that will age well, too. Love it! A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. (91 points)

2020 Inama Carménère “Più” – Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $21
Light purple color. The nose shows lovely smoky, beefy, black pepper-crusted notes, over raspberries, red plums, earth and tar elements. The palate shows suave tannins and medium acidity with a plush, chewy, but vibrant feel – all nicely balanced. The plum and black cherry fruit is ripe and deep, and mixes well with notes of sage, black pepper, smoky earth, even some sauteed mushrooms and anise tones. Delicious and fun, but sports a lot of complexity as well, and this will improve in the cellar for at least five years. I’m thankful this wine exists, and that Inama has kept the interesting and delicious history of Italian Carmenère alive. And the value here is something else. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Italian Wines for the Holidays

Happy holidays from my family to yours.

I hope you all have been staying safe and warm this holiday season. Winter has been in full force over much of the U.S. last week, with the dangerous storm and travel disruptions. So, I hope you’re in a warm place surrounded by loved ones -- and hopefully some good food and wine.

I recently made my first lasagna of the season, which is a tradition for my family in the holidays, and I was happy to taste through some Italian wines and share some merriment with friends and family. And as travel and gift bills come due, I think it’s a great time to share some inexpensive options. So, to round out 2022, I have some Italian selections to share.

Even though it’s a frigid weekend for most everyone in the U.S. this week, I have a batch of mineral-driven Italian white wines. They’re all imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, sourced from estates across Italian regions. This represents a small snapshot of the diversity in Italian white wines and the value in here is something to get excited about.

I also have some interesting wines from Tenuta Sallier de la Tour. This Sicilian estate is owned by Tasca d’Almerita, and, earlier this year, began being imported by Dalla Terra. The price points are attractive, but more so the wines in the bottle. They offer a lot of classic Sicilian flavors, along with complexity and depth that outperforms their price tag. This was my first time trying this estate, and I’ll happily return to these wines when I’m looking for something fun and delicious from Sicily. (I’d be happy to see a bottle on a by-the-glass list for sure.)

These wines were received as trade samples. The white wines were tasted single-blind, while the rest were tasted sighted. Happy holidays to all!

Summery rosatos from Italy -- cheap and delicious

Don’t worry – there’s still plenty of time left in summer, at least technically. It seems like summer lasts forever these days anyway, but luckily, so does pink wine season.

This week I have a handful of rosato wines from Italy that I found interesting and exciting. From Veneto to Puglia, these wines are made from traditional regional grapes like Montepulciano and Susumaniello, and their colors span the gamut from pale copper to raspberry juice.

Considering the recent high inflation levels, I find it refreshing to see well-crafted, delicious pink wine at these price points. These wines are all exclusively imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, which allows distributors to get these wines direct from the wineries and keeps the prices very reasonable. Whoever they have selecting Italian rosato wines clearly knows what they’re doing, as I found this to be an impressive and diverse portfolio. If you’re looking to replenish some of your rosé stash, check your local market for some of these wines.

This week’s selections were received as samples and tasted single blind.

2021 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Rondinella Rosato "Scaia” - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $15
Medium copper color. The aromas boast a lovely mix of sea salt, white pepper and crushed rocks along with raspberries and white cherries, some honeysuckle and mint. The palate has a plush texture with crisp acidity, along with raspberry, cherry and crunchy McIntosh apple fruit. The wildflower, breezy open meadow and honeysuckle tones are lively and fresh, and there’s a nice mineral and green herbal undertone. A bright, zippy, floral style with a lot of value. Made from all Rondinella in the Mezzane di Sotto commune of Valpolicella. (89 points)

2021 Garofoli Montepulciano Rosato “Komaros” - Italy, Marche, Marche IGT
SRP: $14
Light strawberry color. The nose pops with a pleasant mix of raspberries, limes and peaches, topped in white and yellow flowers and cool notes of mint and verbena. Punchy texture, lively acidity, this has a pleasant briny element to accent the ripe watermelon, kiwi and white peach fruit. Notes of chalk dust, celery seed and mint add a spicy kick to this fresh, juicy rosato. All Montepulciano from clay soil vineyards in Cònero. (90 points)

2021 Masseria Li Veli Negroamaro Rosato “Torrerose” - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $15
Pale copper color. A great combination of juicy strawberries, red apples, along with floral perfume, chalk dust, and a mix of spicy, herbal and floral elements that blend well together. Medium-bodied with pleasant creaminess that accents the bright acidity well, and the watermelon, strawberry and white cherry fruit is highly delicious. The complex mix of non-fruit elements is exciting: white pepper, mint, cucumber slices, crushed sea shells. This has finesse and gluggability in equal parts. Negroamaro from clay and limestone soils in the Brindisi province. (90 points)

2021 Masseria Li Veli Susumaniello Rosato “Askos” - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $23
Medium copper color. An explosion of peaches and cantaloupe on the nose, drizzled with lime, along with and interesting mix of honeysuckle, cucumber slices, whipped cream and honey. The palate shows creamy texture and lively acidity, with a range of juicy fruit (lime, strawberry, cantaloupe and white peach). Some flinty, chalky, green herbal tones mix well with creamier, honeyed elements. Juicy but fresh, balanced and fun. Susumaniello grapes from clay and limestone soils in Brindisi. (89 points)

2021 Fattoria La Valentina Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo
SRP: $14
A deep strawberry color. The nose shows a delightful mix of pomegranate, watermelon and cherry fruit, along with daisies, white pepper and honey, a ripe but nuanced appeal. The palate is packed with juicy deliciousness and creamy texture (flavors of white peach, cherry, strawberry and pomegranate) but also balanced with crisp acidity. Notes of yellow and white flowers, clove, some spicy tones, herbal tea and honey. Delicious and ripe but nuanced and complex. A lot going on here, and tons of value. Cerasuolo grapes from clay soils in the Pescara province. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week, I’m back with a catch-all report of wines I received these past few months but didn’t get around to reviewing until recently. (It’s been a busy and enjoyable summer, and I hope the same is true for you.) 

Smith-Madrone’s Spring Mountain wines are consistently some of my favorite from Napa, and I love their Chardonnay and Riesling. So, since I tasted these wines sighted, I tried to approach them with as much skepticism as possible. That said, the 2016s showed wonderfully. Crystal clear, pristine wines that are both begging for serious cellar time. And for the price, I’m still amazed these wines exist.   

C.V.N.E. comes through with some moderately-priced Riojas worth checking out. And Italy’s Garafoli provides three wines from Marche that offer some deliciousness and intrigue for the price. 

Lastly, Virginia’s Early Mountain delivers a juicy red quaffer for those late summer scorchers. 

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2016 Garafoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Podium” - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. So perfumed, with aromas of peaches, limes, dandelion, floral potpourri, sea salt. Nice breadth of texture on the palate with vibrant acidity. Oranges, yellow plums, apricot, lots of fresh fruit, with plenty of sea salt and spicy floral potpourri, along with richer elements of honey and wax. Lots going on here. A single-vineyard Verdicchio, fermented and aged in concrete and stainless steel. (90 points)  

2018 Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Macrina” - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. So floral, with lots of honeysuckle and daisies, along with peaches, honeydew and limes. Lively and crisp on the palate with a pleasantly plump feel. Honeydew drizzled with lime, and I get these notes of chalk, minerals, punchy herbal tones as well. This is pure summer fun but also shows significant complexity, especially for the price. Aged five months in concrete and stainless steel. (88 points)  

2016 Garofoli Rosso Conero Piancarda - Italy, Marche, Rosso Conero
SRP: $17
Deep, juicy purple color. The nose boasts raspberries and black cherries with smoky menthol, wild herbs, eucalyptus and pepper. Vibrant acidity, dusty tannins, with a solid core of red and black cherry fruit. Notes of smoky, charcoal, herbs, a bit sharp and linear, but there’s enough juiciness and complexity that it works. Spicy incense notes on the finish. 100% Montepulciano aged one year in oak. (88 points)  

2016 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Cune Crianza - Spain, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $13
Vibrant ruby color. Nose shows juicy black cherries, spiced cranberry sauce, clove, roses and tobacco. Crisp, lively and fresh on the palate with dusty tannins. The wine is ripe and juicy but stays fresh and bright. Raspberries, cherries, topped in cocoa, dusty earth, roses, clove and mint. Lots of complexity here for a wine at this price point. An attractive, inviting, drink-me-now Rioja. (88 points)  

2016 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Crianza - Spain, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $16
Bright ruby color. Aromas of cherries, chilled strawberries, along with sweet roses, clay/earthy tones and cocoa powder. Fresh and bright, light tannins, juicy red fruit, crisp acidity. Cherries, raspberries and pomegranate mix well with roses, rhubarb, anise and mint. Fun, juicy, balanced, accessible but complex for the price. Aged 10 months in American oak. (88 points)  

2016 Com Tu - Spain, Catalunya, Tarragona, Montsant
SRP: $55
Rich purple color. Spicy aromatics with sage, pepper, creosote and mint, along with smoky cherries, sweet cranberry sauce, with cedar, coffee and incense. Juicy and full-bodied with suave tannins and moderating acidity, not too heavy for 15%. Raspberry and strawberry jam fruit mixes well with sweet coffee, mint, eucalyptus and pepper. The complexity is quite nice, smooth and accessible, totally delicious, but showing some complex floral, spice and earth tones. Grill-friendly stuff that packs a punch. A project from Rene Barbier Ferrer of Clos Mogador. 100% Garnacha from 35- to 50-year-old vines, aged 18 months in barrel. (90 points)  

2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $34
Light yellow color. Gorgeous nose of salted limes, apricot, pineapple, with dusty, chalky, sea spray notes. Laser-like focus on the palate, quite dry and vibrant. Juicy yellow and green apples with limes, and a complex mix of limestone, ocean spray, mountain stream and crushed shells. Such a lively, complex, balanced and age-worthy Riesling. Smith-Madrone does it again, and this vintage is a stunner for the cellar. 12.8% alcohol, about 0.7% residual sugar. (93 points)  

2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apples topped in complex notes of honey, almond, cinnamon, sea salt, hay and chalk dust. Deep texture on the palate with pretty acidity and lovely balance. Yellow apples, candied lemons, orange peel and apricot, juicy and fruity but also airy and elegant. Salty, minerals, chalky, with notes of honey, nougat and hay. Gorgeous, deep, yet vibrant. Another beautiful Chardonnay from Smith-Madrone. Barrel fermented with 80% new French oak. I’d love to age this for five years. (93 points) 

2018 Early Mountain Vineyards Soif - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $26
Deep but bright ruby color. Very pretty, juicy, fresh nose of red plums, candied cherries, bubble gum, with sweet pipe tobacco. Fresh and lively on the palate, light-bodied (12.3% alcohol) with soft tannins and zippy acidity. Plums, cherries, raspberries, super juicy but it’s also showing complex nots of earth, soy, rose potpourri and clove. So fun and delicious. An interesting semi-carbonic wine, a blend of 49% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 3% Chardonnay and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Soif means thirst in French and Early Mountain certainly made a gulpable, juicy, low tannin, crushable red in this difficult vintage. (88 points)

Wine Reviews: New Releases from New Zealand & Italy

This week’s tasting report includes some value-driven wines from big-time New Zealand producer Kim Crawford, as well as some bright and zesty Verdicchios from Italy’s Marche region. Lastly, there’s a tasty Montefalco Rosso and a teeth-stainingly delicious Sagrantino as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

SRP: $18

Pale lemon color. Aromas burst with grapefruit, kiwi, limes along with zesty pepper, jalapeno, nettle and white flowers. Tickling acidity on the palate with medium body and juicy grapefruit, lemons and green apples. Flavors of cucumber slices, honeysuckle and clove. Always a reliable, widely-available, tasty, example of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, and lovely for the price. (87 points)

2017 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

SRP: $25

Pale yellow color. Bursting aromatics of bell pepper, jalapeno and asparagus, on top of juicy peaches, limes, some honeysuckle thrown in too. Crisp and bright, light/medium-bodied (12% alcohol) but some impressive depth and richness. Peaches, cantaloupe and lime doused in complex vegetable/spice elements: jalapeno, nettle, sliced bell pepper, lemongrass. Finishes with flor and honey notes. Classic Kim Crawford style but dialed up a bit. (89 points)

2016 Kim Crawford Pinot Noir South Island - New Zealand, South Island

SRP: $19

Bright ruby color. Smells of crisp cherries, strawberry jam, wild raspberry, along with cinnamon candies and rose petals. Medium+ acidity with light tannins, a fresh and lively style. Tangy cherries and strawberry jam mix with rose petal, cola, rhubarb pie, some white pepper. Accessible, fresh, light, a crowd-pleasing Pinot that’s really good for the money. (87 points)

2016 3 Badge Pinot Grigio The White Knight - Italy, Venezie IGT

SRP: $12

Pale straw color. Peachy nose with honeysuckle and sweet floral perfume. Crisp but plump with pineapple and limeade flavors, along with some honeycomb and sweet white flowers. Fun, fresh, friendly Pinot Grigio. (85 points)

2017 Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Macrina - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico

SRP: $14

Medium yellow color. Nose shows peachy, lemon, apricot, with bright white flowers, tonic and dandelion notes. Zesty acidity, moderate creamy texture, this is a fresh and vibrant wine with green apples, with sliced cucumbers, dandelion, sea salt, floral potpourri. Lively and fresh, very nice for the price. (87 points)

2017 Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore

SRP: $25

Medium yellow color. Floral and bright on the nose with lilies, dandelions, honeysuckle, with richer peach, apricot, nectarine, orange marmalade. Crisp acidity frames the wine, nice textural depth, dry and steely with orange and apricot fruit. A saline and quinine note mixes with cut floral stems. More depth than the Macrina, but still a brisk and lively wine. (88 points)

2014 Perticaia Montefalco Rosso - Italy, Umbria, Montefalco Rosso

SRP: $21

Medium ruby color. Aromas of crisp, chilled red cherries, red currants, tangy plums, along with charcoal, roses, spiced tea, fennel. Medium-bodied with fresh acidity and smooth tannins. Tart red and black plum fruit mixes nicely with spiced tea, pepper, violets, scorched earth, gravel. Dry but fresh. Sangiovese with 15% Sagrantino and 15% Coloino. (88 points)

2012 Tenuta Alzatura Sagrantino di Montefalco - Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Sagrantino di Montefalco

SRP: $31

Light purple color. Aromas of tart black currants and cherries, with charcoal, anise, tobacco, leather and cured meat notes. Grippy tannins (wow this is young), but moderating acidity, and lots of tart black currant and plum fruit. Lots going on already in terms of smoky, meaty, savory, earthy tones, but the fruit is still dense and concentrated, and this has a lot of complexity to unpack. I’d love to bury for 5-8 years. 100% Sagrantino aged 16 months in barrel. (91 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.