Dry German Rieslings, Seductive Without the Sugar

I don’t like German rieslings. They’re too sweet.

I hear this sentiment from people all the time, but it still baffles me. In my mind, sweetness is to riesling what off-shore wind is to a surf break: it takes that which is already good and makes it even better. Sweetness in and of itself doesn’t make a wine great, just as an off-shore breeze does not in and of itself create an awesome wave. Sweetness must also be balanced by other factors, such as acid and minerality, two components that German riesling packs a lot of.

But, hey, if you don’t like the perfect touch of sweetness in a spätlese, you’re not alone. It seems more and more German winemakers are producing wines for the dry-loving palate, or perhaps more are being imported to satisfy the demand. Regardless, German dry riesling can be incredible. Bracing at times, and immensely acidic, but dry as a pile of bones. (If you’re not a fan of residual sugar, look for “trocken” on the label, meaning dry.) And despite my sweet tooth, I still love dry riesling.

I got to taste ten dry rieslings at a recent tasting of the DC-based German Wine Society. Here are my notes…

Dry Rieslings

2007 Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Riesling Schieferterrassen - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Aromas of peach, lime, orange blossom and yellow apple, with time faint notes of herbs and spices. Lush apple and pear fruit on the palate with superb acid. Hints of oil and beeswax show the age. This wine is only slightly sweet, but the mineral and acid make it taste bone dry. If I had other bottles, I’d be wary of aging them for more than a year or so. That said, I really liked this, as I do all Heymann-Löwenstein wines. (90 points)

2011 Franzen Riesling Der Sommer war sehr groß - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Pale lemon color with a slight spritz in the glass. Aromas of sweet peach, honey and white flowers. For a dry riesling tasting, this one showed a bit more richness. High acid on the palate, rushing lime and lemon peel, backed up by bracing minerals and a tart, quinine-laced finish. (87 points)

2009 Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Auf der Mauer - Germany, Pfalz
Bright and lively aromatics: slate, lime, white tea, salt. Very tangy on the palate with lots of minerals. The fruit is lean and tends toward grapefruit rind and green apple peel. Flavors of salt and crushed rocks linger onto the finish. A bold, dry riesling. (88 points)

2008 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett trocken - Germany, Pfalz
Very reticent on the nose, and it didn’t open up much with time. Aromas of lemon, lanolin and white tea. The palate is soft, quite weak actually. The green melon flavors taste musky and old. A bit of apricot and nut flavors came out, but there’s also this strange green tree bark flavor. It’s not well-spoken enough to be intellectually stimulating. (83 points)

2011 Dönnhoff Riesling Trocken - Germany, Nahe
Even at the entry level Dönnhoff gets it done. Smoky slate, minerals and grapefruit on the nose. High acid on the palate, a bit of a waxy mouthfeel, with lots of crushed rock dust and smoke. Flavors of bitter lemon and green melon come together on the tart finish. (88 points)

2011 Weingut Fogt Riesling Siefersheimer Goldenes Horn Spätlese Trocken - Germany, Rheinhessen
Like a perfume shop on the nose with white flowers and honeysuckle, also an aroma that reminds me of cucumber water and lemon rind. Purity of acid, minerals and fruit on the palate. The flavors of green apple, white peach and zested lime taste richer than some of the prior wines in the tasting. Finish is both tart and full with a note of grapefruit. Delicious young. (89 points)

2011 Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer Riesling Vom Porphyr Trocken - Germany, Rheinhessen
Lovely aromatic display of apricot, tart lemon, crushed rock and smoke. The palate is brisk and tart with mouth-puckering acid. Greem melon and pineapple rind flavors mix with dense minerals and the smoke that wafts up when you smash two rocks together. The intensity of the sour apple and lemon is matched only by the minerality, which lingers long onto the finish. Very powerful stuff that might taste better in a year or so, even though I tend to enjoy drinking dry rieslings young. (91 points)

2009 Weingut Seehof Westhofener Steingrube Riesling Trocken - Germany, Rheinhessen
On the nose: yellow apple, lemon zinger tea, lime peel and crushed rocks. Plump on the palate, with high acid. The flavors of peach skin, honey, wax and smoke are complex and focused. I pick up some margarita salt and herb notes on the finish. (89 points)

2006 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
Beautifully aromatic: white flowers, pear blossom, slate, intense minerals, salt and lime. Bracing and intense on the palate, with loads of acid and minerals, but the nutty, orange peel, clove and slate flavors give it enough body and richness to make it balanced. Lanolin and slate linger long on the finish. I’m not a huge fan of Großes Gewächs wines, but this is superb. Even though I like to drink GG wines young, this could last for a very long time. (93 points)

2010 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe
Wow, what a treat. Endlessly floral on the nose with grapefruit, minerals and lime. Searing acid, so 2010, but this dry wine maintains enough richness and power to balance out the acidity. Flavors of grapefruit, honeysuckle, green pear, minerals, crushed rocks. So much complexity and a finish that doesn’t quit. One of my favorite Großes Gewächs so far. (95 points)

Anatomy of a 19-Year-Old Riesling

The Forster Pechstein vineyard produces some of the Pfalz's
best riesling. This Smurf-like rock carving is pretty cool, too.

I’ve said if before and I’ll say it again: aged riesling is one of life’s most delicious treats. I was reminded of this last night as I opened a bottle of riesling that I bought at auction and have been holding onto for a year or so…

Vintage: 1994

Producer: Reichsrat Von Buhl

Wine: Riesling

Designation: Kabinett

Vineyard: Forster Pechstein

Region: Pfalz (Germany)

 

I cut off the capsule and noticed that the tip of the cork was covered in some sort of mold. But not to fear, this isn’t rare when the wine’s been stored in a subterranean cellar for more than a decade. I inspected the bottle for signs of past seepage (when the wine inside leaks all the way past the cork and spills out, which can result in oxidization of the wine). I pulled the cork out like a surgeon, and was happy to see that it was soaked nearly to the top, but not all the way. The level of wine in the neck of the bottle looked OK, and I was pretty sure the wine was in good condition.

The first thing you notice about this wine is its clover honey color. This riesling shows complex and layered aromas, with a great combination of rich (apricot jam, honeycomb) and bright aromas (lime, slate). The intensity of the nose is something else.

On the palate… this is why I love German riesling, and specifically riesling from the Pfalz region. It’s got this burst of freshness, with lime-like acid and tangy minerals, but it’s accompanied by a rich, honeyed aspect. Intense and complex flavors of green pears, orange peel, apricot and a streak of minerals. Aged flavors of wax and lamp oil add complexity. So tangy, yet so plush and layered.

This is a superb and structured riesling. On the second day it was even more expressive, which leads me to think that, and even at 19 years old, this riesling has another 5-10 years ahead of it.

I rated in 93 points, non-blind.

The next time I see a riesling from the Forster Pechstein vineyard, I’m snatching it up for sure.

Cheers!

Grab Bag Whites with Good Friends

When drinking wine with good friends, German riesling is always a wise choice.

My friend Tooch and I have been drinking wine together for five years. We’ve shared hundreds of bottles from practically every premium wine region in the world. Last year he moved from DC to Chicago, and Friday was his first day back in town for 11 months. Naturally, our tight-knit wine crew threw a tasting at our favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines in Cleveland Park. We didn't plan ahead for a theme, and  everyone just bought a bottle they wanted to share with good friends. Based on the wines people brought, the tasting took on several themes of its own: Burgudy, the Jura, the Loire Valley, German riesling. There were a lot of people and even more bottles. (I believe the final body count was 30-something.) There was no way I could make it through all the wines on the table, so I had to prioritize.

Here are some notes on some of the white wines in the tasting. You know, when I'm drinking such good wine and hanging out with good friends, I can’t help but think: I'm a blessed guy.

2009 Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel - Austria, Wachau
Not a bad way to start off the tasting. Initially a bit closed, but with some air and time the wine opened up to show slate, lemon and white pepper. Very bold palate, with delicious acid, and gummy white peach fruit. Finish is laced with minerals. Classic Rudi Pichler. 88 points

2008 Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Etoile - France, Jura, L'Etoile
This is an extreme wine, even for Jura chardonnay. Seriously, it smells like my wetsuit after surfing for hours on end, complete with hints of seaweed, brine and sea salt. Hints of lemon and sherry round out the nose. Massive acid on the palate, along with clean flavors of lemon, quince, almonds and sea salt. This wine is quite young, and I imagine it would show better in a few years. This chardonnay is powerful enough to stand up to pretty much any sharp cheese. 88 points

2010 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis
I pretty much knew this wine was going to be awesome, but it still surprised me. Very young, but stunning. Aromas of lemons, limes, limestone, salt and crushed rocks. High acid from start to finish, buttressed by green pears and apples, bright minerals, seaweed and salty air. Long, crisp finish. Bring on the oysters because this stuff is simply beautiful. The Montée de Tonnerre vineyard is one of my favorite places for chardonnay, and in 2010 Domaine Servin really nails it. 93 points

2002 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel
I always welcome a Christoffel Erben riesling to a tasting, and this 2002 showed quite well. Vibrant peach on the nose, hints of petrol and honey as well. Still smells youthful. The palate shows nice balance between fruit and acid. Lovely white peach and lychee flavors, along with minerals the first signs of petrol. More of a boisterous wine than an elegant one, but it's delicious. 90 points

1990 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel
An absolutely beautiful aged riesling. Gorgeous aromas of petrol, orange peel, marmalade and a hint of white flower. Huge acid on the palate provides freshness and elegance, supporting the rich flavors of dried pineapple, mango and apricot. Fleshed out with nougat and bracing minerals. This is everything I love about Mosel riesling, and Maximin Grünhauser in particular. I'd love to taste this again in five years. There was a lot of discussion amongst the older folks at the tasting that 1990 was their favorite vintage. With a wine like this, it's understandable. 93 points

2005 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz
Hmmm... strange wine. First of all, it's only seven years old but it's got the orange color of a 20-year-old riesling. Aged aromas of peach juice, honeycomb and dried mango. The palate has a lot of honey, dried apricot and even caramel flavors. I can't believe this is only a spätlese, as the sweetness is reminiscent of an auslese. Lower acid than the other rieslings in the tasting, but low acid for 2005 in general. I don't know how this wine got so old so quickly, but it's a riesling to drink in the near term. 84 points

2010 Patz & Hall Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma Coast
Aromas of peanut shell, buttered popcorn and green apple. Actually some solid acid on the palate, nice bit of kick. Flavors of lemonhead candy, buttered cookies and green apple. I like the cut to this wine. I’m a fan of this producer’s pinots, and I was expecting a bit more from their chardonnay. 86 points

Friday Night Grab Bag

Last minute, I emailed some friends to see about a possible wine tasting on a Friday night. What I expected to be a small event quickly turned into a really solid tasting, with several people coming and bringing some special bottles. This is a unique bunch of wines and styles, but overall they were great. Notes...

2009 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Chateau Thébaud Clos des Morines - France, Loire Valley, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
This is a big, bold Muscadet that shows a lot of heft, but still pays homage to the classic sea spray and mineral intensity of Muscadet. Initially, it smelled like white flowers, rich melon fruit, ocean spray and sea salt. The palate shows plump white peach fruit, tangy acid, and hints of lime and salt. There's a lovely creaminess to this wine, but also a lot of acid. Can a wine be hedonistic and racy at the same time? If so, this is the wine. Over time a lot of soap and perfume aromas came out. This could be aged for ten years easily, and I'm sure it would gain a lot of complexity. This is one hell of a Muscadet. (90 pts.)

2008 Gilbert Picq Chablis Dessus La Carriere - France, Burgundy, Chablis
Tim popped this Chabls. It's definitely a unique wine, at a unique place in its evolution. Right out of the bottle, the wine really smells like tuna can and lemon. No kidding, my cat Sonoma would probably love this. With time some nutshell, lemon-lime and nougat came out. If I smelled this blind, I would think it had at least eight years of age on it. The palate is surprisingly fresh and lively, with lots of sweet melon and grapefruit. There's some limestone and sea salt in there too, reminding me that we're in Chablis. It opened up with time, but it's definitely a mysterious Chablis. Maybe this wine would be a bit better with another two or three years? (88 pts.)

2011 Château de la Bonneliere Chinon Rive Gauche Rose - France, Loire Valley, Chinon
Lovely salmon color in the glass. Nose of seashells, grapefruit and nectarine. The palate is tangy and crisp with lean minerals. Flavors of wild strawberry, raspberry and a very distinct brambly note. I also get a tangy cranberry flavor that reminds me of Thanksgiving. Good structure and tannins for a Chinon rose. Delicious. (87 pts.)

2011 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Gamay - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
Leave it to Clos Roche Blanche to come out with one of the craziest gamays I've ever tasted. Pungent aromas of grapefruit, tilled soil and green onion. The palate is tart and tangy with lots of green pepper, white cherry and grapefruit. There's a lot of minerality and incense in this wine, along with a whole garden of herbs. This ain't no Beaujolais. Bizarre, and not for everyone, but really fun and nerdy. (89 pts.)

2009 Tramontane Collioure - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Collioure
Despite the weird label reminiscent of the early 1990s video game series Kirby, this is a serious wine. 100 percent grenache from the southern-most appellation in France. I tasted two bottles of this wine, one was opened that night, the other 24 hours before. The two tastings made clear to me that this wine can age, and should age. Day 2: Great raspberry aromas, savory spices, nutmeg, allspice. The palate shows tangy acid, lovely sweet cherries, along with spices of nutmeg and clove. This wine gave me a craving for lamb or bison burgers. The Day 1 bottle was a lot darker and showed richer fruit and spices. I'd love to taste this wine again in two years, as it clearly has a lot of complexity packed in here. (90 pts.)

2009 Schiefer Blaufränkisch Königsberg - Austria, Südburgenland
This was tasted blind, and my buddy J later told me it had been opened for several days. I usually like Schiefer's Blaufrankisch, and I did like this, it was just strange. Aromas of cranberries, lemon verbina, tobacco and toast. There are some bitter tannins, and tangy acid, but there's a lot of great flavors: orange rind, moroccan spices and cranberries. I'd score it 86, but again this was opened three days prior.

2008 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Chambolle-Musigny
A beautiful young Burgundy. Elegant aromas of rose petals, sour cherry, as well as some savory spices and herbs. The palate shows tangy acid, firm tannins and a very elegant mouthfeel. Raspberry and rhubarb flavors abound. There's some stemminess, but not too much. This wine definitely needs some time to come together, but it's really pretty, and with time it became more floral and expressive. Lovely Chambolle. (90 pts.)

2007 Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Pretty gold color in the glass. Aromas of peach ring candy, whipped honey, peanut brittle and orange rind. Very rich aromatically. The palate shows sweet peaches, honeycomb, and rich canteloupe fruit. The acid came out with an hour or two, but I wanted a bit more. It's rich, but a little flabby, and doesn't have that mineral and acid streak I look for in Wehlener Sonnenuhrs. Tasty, but not very elegant. (86 pts.)

2005 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz
I cannot believe I only bought one bottle of this wine. Neon yellow color in the glass with thick legs. The aromas are unbelievable in their complexity and purity: petrol, lemon oil, wax, apricot sauce, candied ginger. The aromas change and shift with three hours open, showing all sorts of gorgeousness. The palate is rich with lemon custard, yellow apple and ginger snap flavors. The acid keeps it fresh and lively. There's so much apricot, honeycomb, key lime pie and herbal flavors. The whole time, the acid and minerals slip through, providing sleekness and balance. Lovely tangerine rind on the finish. This could age for 10, 20+ years easily. It's almost a crime to drink it this young, but it's so good that I don't feel bad. Bob: "This is a very special wine." In ten years, I could see rating this wine even higher. This is no joke. Perfect Friday night wine. (94 pts.)

12-Year-Old Riesling Still Going Strong

2001 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Riesling Burklin Estate (Germany, Pfalz)

I popped this wine with some friends last night and was impressed at how it showed, especially considering I picked it up at auction for $12. Initially, the aromas were a bit subdued, but they really came out after about an hour to show lemon, green apple and quinine. The palate is very sharp, with ripping acid all the way through and lots of minerals. Not much in the way of sweetness, which lets the precise flavors of grapefruit and green apple shine. This wine must've been austere in its youth, because it's still very sharp. It doesn't show much in the way of typical aged riesling flavors (oil, nougat), but it's quite delicious. It would be great with shellfish or salad.

88 points IJB

White Wines from Alsace and Germany

My girlfriend's family traces its heritage back to Alsace. She's also lived in Germany for a while, as have I. So, when her parents were in town, it was a given: I'd throw a little wine party with wines from Alsace and Germany. They've all traveled extensively through Germany and Alsace together, and have even visited the tiny village their family came from. They've also toured Germany's Mosel Valley, one of my favorite regions in the world. They're not huge wine fans, so I took this as an opportunity to put on an educational tasting. It was a great idea for wine beginners, as it really helped a lot of people realize what they like and don't like in white wine.

Opening Whites

2009 Williamsburg Winery Governor's White - USA, Virginia
opening white. the nose has the sweet aromas of a hybrid grape lilke vidal blanc or something. melons and white peach. good acid to balance out the sweet white peach and green grape flavors. i poured this because the tasting was planned for people who didn't have much experience with wine, and this proved to be a crowd-pleaser. (81 pts.)

2010 Quinta da Aveleda Alvarinho Vinho Regional Minho - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Regional Minho
this wine smells like honeydew melon covered in dried hay. the palate is zingy. tastes exactly like a grapefruit rind, with even some of that bitterness. i was surprised, but a lot of people like this wine for its acid and freshness. it's good, but just not enough weight for me. (85 pts.)

Gewurztraminers from Alsace

2007 Trimbach Gewurztraminer - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC
what an incredibly aromatic wine. to me, it smells exactly like those orange circus peanut candies, which i love. there's this white clover flower aroma as well. the palate is plump, almost fat, and rich with green apple and white peach fruit. it doesn't come off as sweet and there's just enough acid to keep it balanced. creamy finish. this wine was well-liked by the crowd. (88 pts.)

2009 Albert Mann Gewurztraminer - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC
the crowd liked the 07 trimback better, but still enjoyed this one. lemon lime and white pepper on the nose. the palate is creamy and full. i got a distinct mango flavor on this, and a hint of some spice and oyster shell. (87 pts.)

2007 Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Steingrubler - France, Alsace, Wettolsheim, Alsace Grand Cru AOC
this was something of a controversial wine at the tasting. although, not for me. i thought it was just gorgeous. the nose is epic: white flowers, fresh ginger, lavender. rich and wonderfully balanced on the palate. i got a distinct orange peel and whipped honey flavor this time. a rush of minerals and ginger on the finish. for a lot of people, this combination of flavors might be confusing, because some of the tasters weren't as excited about this one. (92 pts.)

German Rieslings

2007 Weingut Reuscher-Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
this wine went quickly at the tasting. a lighter style with yellow apples and honey on the nose. i got brisk iced tea, honey and yellow apples on the palate. light on its feet, but by no means boring. (88 pts.)


2007 Georg Mosbacher Forster Elster Riesling Kabinett trocken - Germany, Pfalz
for the people who didn't like residual sugar or rich fruit, this was the wine of the night. smells like oyster shells, lemons and slate. this bottle had the most acid of the tasting. It almost feels spicy on the palate from the acid. (88 pts.)

2008 Jakoby-Mathy Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
light golden color with thick legs. the nose is really aromatic: white peach, sugar cane and a kind of orange marmalade as well. the palate has great depth and balance. the orange rind and lemon-lime flavors are balanced with a streak of zesty acid that lingers on the finish. (90 pts.)