The value and adventure in Portuguese blends

Here’s a scenario…

You have nothing but $20 in your pocket. You’re on the way to a friend’s party, empty-handed. There’s a wine shop on the way with a great selection, divided up by country, and you need to pick up a bottle.

Where are you looking? I’m headed to the Portugal aisle first. 

Herdade de Espora's vineyards in Aletenjo, Portugal.

Portuguese wines have been at the top of my list when it comes to saving money while scoring wines that offer depth, personality, authenticity, and uniqueness. Twenty bucks doesn’t go very far these days. And so much has changed since I took my first wine trip to Portugal a decade ago. But I find it quite comforting to know that Portuguese bargain-priced bangers are still alive and thriving.

Blends rule to roost in Portugal, with a focus on the plethora of indigenous grapes. They can be hard to pronounce or remember at times (Viosinho, Gouveio, etc.) but the varietal differences allow conscientious winemakers to stitch together a patchwork that expresses the best of all worlds.

This week I have four wines from two respected producers. From the Douro in the north, comes Vale do Bomfim, which was kicked off by the renowned Symington family in 2004.Their red blend has been a staple of inexpensive but expressive Douro juicy goodness for years, and last year they added in a white blend. I’m happy to report that wine also rocks. Both the branco and tinto are of sourced from Quinta do Bomfim in the Douro Valley, the same site that produces Dow’s long-lived and beautiful Vintage Port.

Esporão is a legend of the Alentejo region in southern Portugal. I visited this area for a week five years ago and was blown away. It’s an expansive, diverse, historic, and important region, with

They now have all 1,300+ acres of vineyards certified organic. I visited their sprawling property near Alqueva Lake in 2016 and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Test vineyards with dozens of varieties of grapes allow them to test out what works, and they have a fascinating blend of indigenous and international varieties to work with.

They’re something of a spokesperson for Alentejo, or a gateway producer, as they make more wine than anyone in the region, their wines are exported to dozens of international markets, and they’re on more shelves in wine stores than any other producer in Alentejo. And I think that’s a great thing, because these wines are attractive from entry level to the most expensive. But even the term expensive is relative here, because Esporão screams value.

The new vintages of the reserve red and white come in at $23 bucks and overdeliver for the price. If you’re not familiar with the Alentejo region of Portugal, this is a great place to start, and they’re so crowd-friendly, you can’t go wrong bringing a bottle over to a friend’s house.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Herdade do Esporão Reserva Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo

SRP: $23
Bright yellow colored. The nose boasts rich pears, yellow apples, limes, with complex tones of shaved ginger, white tea, almond skin, breadcrumbs, and honey. The palate shows pleasantly plump texture with tangy acidity, a balanced appeal, with flavors of honeydew, pears, orange slices, and guava. There’s a nice salty mineral kick that accents the fruit, and I get tones of white pepper, honeycomb, almond, and some floral potpourri elements. Flinty, salty, vibrant, this is an easy six-pack buy for Spring and Summer cooking and warm weather. A blend of Antao Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro, fermented and aged in stainless steel and 25% new American and French oak. (91 points)

2021 Herdade do Esporão Reserva Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $23
Medium purple color. An aromatically inviting display of violets, pepper, coffee, cedar, and clove, over top of deep black cherries and currants, with hints of tar and earth. The palate is fresh, showing dusty tannins, with a bright but complex vibe. Tart currants, roasted figs, and plum jam blend really well with elements of black pepper, lavender, mint, charcoal, some chewing tobacco. Balanced and juicy, but complex and versatile as well. A fascinating and delicious blend of Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, and Cab Sauv. (91 points)

2021 Dow Douro Vale do Bomfim Branco - Portugal, Douro

SRP: $15
Vibrant purple. Lovely deep aromas of black cherries, red and black currants, with spiced black tea, notes of leather, clove, anise, and coffee grounds. The palate has lively acidity and fine-edged but structured tannins – I love the balance. Juicy black cherries, saucy dark plums, tangy black currants, the fruit is blended with elements of coffee grounds, graphite, dark chocolate, anise, and black pepper, with a hint of nuanced oak. An exciting and crowd-pleasing value that packs a lot of depth and personality. A blend of 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Franca, and 10% Tinta Barroca. Crazy value alert! (90 points)

2022 Dow Douro Branco Vale do Bomfim Tinto - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Bright and inviting with lemons, kiwi, and green apples, with all sorts of cool salty, chalky, limestone, and floral perfume tones. Racy and vibrant on the palate but a rich depth of texture, balanced nicely, with juicy pear fruit, some pineapple, and lime zest. Notes of almond skin, honey, chalk dust, and rocky stream vibes. Balanced, fresh, an insane value. Would make a great six-pack buy for seafood and Spring gatherings. A mix of 30% Viosinho 30% Rabigato 20% Gouveio 20% Arinto. (89 points)

Selections for Valentine’s Day and beyond

Congrats to anyone who did a dry January! February is in full swing, and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. We’ve also got the Super Bowl coming up, and Spring will be knocking on the door before we know it.

A heart of locks on an Appalachian Trail overpass

So, if you’re looking to stock up on some wines for the coming festivities, branch out and try something new, or purchase a bottle or two for your special someone, this week I have a delightful mix of wines that will fit the bill.

Amour and French wines go together, so a few are needed on this list. Champagne (of course), but I also included some intriguing pink wines and a wine I don’t see too often but thoroughly enjoy – Faugères Blanc.

From Marlborough, New Zealand comes a Sauvignon Blanc worthy of love and affection – Loveblock. It’s one of the better iterations of the style that I’ve come across in recent years, and the value is great.

Portugal is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I loved taking my partner and daughter there last year to show them the country. The food, landscape, and (of course) wine are endlessly fascinating and interesting, so I had to include some cool new Portuguese wines in this report. I have a handful of wines that represent just a drop in the bucket in terms of Portugal’s wine diversity.

Italy also needs a spot on this lovely list of wine, and the wines of Valpolicella is such a great cold weather wine to enjoy and share with those you love. From Pasqua, I have two warm, hearty reds that are seriously worth checking out. They’re great for the cellar, a meat dish you’ve been braising all day, or a gift to someone you love.

I also have a stunner of a dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes’ Ravines. Riesling is perhaps the world’s greatest grape (arguments welcomed, but I won’t hold my breath). And this FLX wine is so vibrant and versatile. I also have a value-driven and delicious Pinot Noir from Oregon that I think would please most any palate.

Whatever you’re sipping and whoever you’re sipping it with, all the best for Valentine’s Day and the rest of Winter.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Château des Estanilles Faugères Vallongue Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a delightfully rich mix of pears and yellow apples, honey, graham cracker, almond, shaved ginger, along with some crushed limestone and flinty vibes. The palate has racy acidity and a precise sense of salinity, along with a lovely creamy texture. Flavors of white peach, yellow apples, pear butter, along with notes of almond and ginger cake, and crushed chalk and limestone tones. Minerals and talc on the long, pithy finish. Really delightful stuff, diverse, balanced, delicious, will age as well. 45% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, 20% Vermentino, aged six months on the lees in stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Domaine de l'Abbaye Côtes de Provence Clos Beylesse - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence

SRP: $26
Pale copper color. The nose is a bright infusion of raspberries and white cherries, with lots of crushed stones, minerals, sea salt, with some nettle and white pepper tones. The palate is racy and pithy, contrasted and balanced by a honeyed depth. Peaches and raspberries, mixed with orange blossom, floral perfume, some chalk dust and minerals, and honeysuckle. Pleasant texture, bright, delicious, complex – a Provence pink to put some summer in your February. (90 points)

2022 Château d'Astros Côtes de Provence Cuvée Amour - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $18
Rich salmon color. A juicy mix of watermelon, white cherry, and strawberries, with flinty, chalky, crushed stone vibes, along with celery seed, perfume, and lily elements. The palate is crisp but taut with red apples and white cherry fruits, balanced and vibrant. The fruit is laced with notes of sea salt, limestone, chalk dust, along with all sorts of white tea, mint, white flowers, and some celery seed tones. Zesty, springy, floral, versatile, this is great for Valentine’s Day, spring, or really any time of year. (90 points)

N.V. Perrier-Jouët Champagne Grand Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $65
Light gold color. A classic and inviting aromatic blend of biscuits, gingerbread, almond cake, with lemon bars, lime zest, green pears and white peaches, with lots of floral tones. The palate has a crunchy, flinty, fresh appeal with a nice creamy depth, pleasantly balanced. Yellow apples, lemons and limes, and juicy peach fruit mixes well with elements of nougat, fresh biscuits, honey butter, and honeyed ginger tea. Complex, refined, classic. (90 points)

2015 Pasqua Valpolicella Superiore Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. An exciting aromatic display of deep red currants, saucy plums, and black cherry jam, along with a host of non-fruit complexities: loamy earth, roasted red pepper, chewing tobacco, eucalyptus, with notes of cedar. Ripe bright on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and fresh acidity, supporting saucy mulled fruits (currants, plums, black cherries). Balanced and refined with flourishes of dried violets, earth, soy sauce, sage, leather Fresh and bright personality throughout but offers a lot to parse through. (91 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

SRP: $85
Dark ruby color. Aromas invite contemplation with these nuanced savory, floral, and spice-laden tones, accenting the blackberry, cranberry relish, and mulled cherry fruit. I also get some coffee and dark chocolate. When sipping, this wine is both bold and elegant, with structured but sanded tannins and crisp acidity. Beautiful red cherry and currant fruit with cranberry relish, accented by leather, dusty earth, warm clay, chewing tobacco, cigar box, sandalwood, and coffee. A concentrated but expressive Amarone, and one that will have love to show for many years. Bury a bottle or enjoy now! (93 points)

2022 Loveblock Vintners Ltd Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $31
Medium yellow color. So bright and inviting on the nose with ruby red grapefruit, green melon, limes, and the fruit is mixed with a complex blend of honey, tropical flowers, with nuanced green herbs and wild leeks. The palate sports gorgeous, pleasantly creamy texture, matched by brisk acidity, with pristine balance. Flavors of white peach, lemons and limes, cantaloupe, and honeydew. The fruit is tossed with complex notes of stones and chalk dust, minerals, white pepper, wild green herbs. It has this stony, mountain stream clarity, lots of precision, and a long finish. A NZ Sauv Blanc to win over any skeptics. (92 points)

2022 Quinta da Raza Trajadura Raza Pet-Nat - Portugal
SRP: $20
Bold yellow color with fine fizz. Lively and floral on the nose, with scents of white peaches and limes, along with dandelion, chalk, crushed sweet tarts – really floral and vibrant. The palate is pithy and tart, crunchy and dry, a bit bracing but delicious. Fruit-wise, this shows orange peel, tart pear, green apple, and to that the wine adds saline, quinine, minerals, dried white flowers, and some spicy nettle or mint. Focused, lively, great stuff to stock up on for Spring. Made from the Trajadura grape. (89 points)

2020 Companhia Agricola do Sanguinhal Óbidos Grande Reserva Branco Quinta das Cerejeiras - Portugal, Lisboa, Óbidos
SRP: $27
Bright yellow color. The nose shows yellow and green pears, lemon curd, and green apples, matched with crushed limestone, slate, along with honey and yellow flowers. The palate shows a rich textural weight but zesty acidity, combining for a clear and focused white. Flavors of lemon, quince, and green apples blend with tones of cut flower stems, basil, some crushed stone, sea salt. Delicious and harmonious. I travelled to Obidos last year and, my goodness, it is an incredible place and home to some delightful wines. Chardonnay, Arinto, and Vital grapes aged eight months in French oak and four months in steel. (90 points)

2021 Aveleda Alvarinho Solos de Granito - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Regional Minho
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromatically cranking with floral and citrus goodness – I get lemon, quince, limes, with mountain stream, stony minerals, saline, grapefruit rind, some honeysuckle. Racy acidity skates over the palate but there’s a nice textural complexity and depth, too. Flavors of ruby red grapefruit and oranges mix well with all sorts of white and yellow flowers, mountain stream, sea salt, and a level of mineral infusion that is so invigorating. Bring on all sorts of seafood and shellfish, or just sip as an apéritif. Well done! Fermented and aged in stainless steel for nine months with lees stirring. (91 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Prazo de Roriz - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. The nose shows tangy red and black currants and cherries and a whole lot of savory/spicy tones like: warm rocks, potting soil, sage and anise, oregano, black pepper. Fresh and ripe on the palate with chewy but structured tannins and moderating acidity. The plum, red and black cherry, and roasted fig fruit is deep and tangy. Notes of chewing tobacco, scorched earth, graphite, and dark chocolate shavings add complexity. For me, this is a perennial winner both for its quality and value. A classic Portuguese blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Touriga Franca. (90 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. The nose exudes a warm, wintry, but inviting host of currant jam, plum cake, fig paste, along with savory broth and pepper, dried violets, a cool leathery kick, and some graphite and minerals. The palate is grippy but suave with zippy acidity and a concentrated but fresh appeal. Flavors of plums, currant and fig paste, and tart blueberry. Add in some smoky earth, tar, leather, black pepper, anise, along with black tea and nuanced oak. This is juicy, tangy, and complex, and should also age well. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with small amounts of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Sousão, and Tinta Cão. (91 points)

2020 Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling - USA, New York, Finger Lakes

SRP: $21 

Lovely gold color. Beautiful depth of aromas packed in here – papaya, lime, white peach, yellow flowers, honey, ocean spray, smashed rocks. The palate has precise balance and a dry, zesty appeal with a pure mouthfeel. Flavors of yellow pears, white peach, and papaya taste ripe and alive. Then the waves of non-fruit complexities rush in: slate, minerals, ocean jetty, flinty tones, with perfume, and honeysuckle. Tingling minerals last long onto the finish. Great stuff, classic Finger Lakes Riesling goodness, and an exceptional value. (91 points)

2021 Rare North Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. The aromas are bright and red with cranberry, raspberry, tangy strawberry, along with notes of dusty earth, rhubarb, and some richer notes of light roast coffee grounds and roasted chestnut. On the palate, medium acidity with smooth, lightly dusty tannins, and a cool mix of fruit – from black cherry and plum to raspberry and strawberry rhubarb pie. The non-fruit elements are a lot of fun – there’s some spicy herbal tea, with roasted chestnut and cinnamon elements, and some rose petals and rhubarb. Lovely, fresh, will-please-all-palates kind of Willamette Pinot at a steal of a price. (89 points)

Revisiting the White Wines of Portugal's Alentejo Region

Esporao's expansive vineyards in Alentejo, Portugal. 

When I visited Portugal’s Alentejo last summer, I arrived expecting to taste a ton of red wines — which, surely, I did, as red grapes make up the vast majority of those planted in Alentejo. But I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the white wines (which I wrote about in this column).

Antão Vaz leads the pack in terms of quantity and, I think, quality. This indigenous white variety does well in the hot and arid climate of Alentejo. It’s frequently blended with other indigenous Portuguese varieties like Arinto (for some crisp acidity), along with others like Gouveio,and Roupeiro.

When tasting these white wines, I find they just pop with the authenticity of the region. Winemakers craft Antão Vaz and other Alentejo white blends in a variety of styles, from steely, leaner ones, to skin-contact wines made in amphorae, to creamier, barrel-fermented wines. And I think that diversity is on display in the wines I tasted for this report, which I received as samples and tasted sighted.

There are a few red wines included in here, as well as a ringer from the Douro, made by Alentejo-based producer Esporão.

2016 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Antão Vaz da Peceguina - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $25
Rich gold color. Fascinating aromas of orange peel and apricot along with olive oil, hay, nougat, saline and chalk. Medium-bodied, this has the textural depth of an orange wine while being really vibrant and precise. The orange and apricot fruit is touched with honeyed, waxy elements, minerals, sea salt, white tea, raw almond, there’s even some green herb and dried seaweed notes (in a really good way). Deep, the mouthfeel is lovely, but the wine is really, really fresh. A memorable and unique made from 100% Antão Vaz, fermented in stainless steel. (91 points)

2018 FitaPreta Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. The nose shows lemon curd, peaches, yellow apples, while rich notes of honey and lamp oil mix with lighter elements of sea salt and perfume. Fresh and medium-bodied (13% alcohol) with a plump feel and lively acidity. Lemon curd, honeydew melon and apricot mix nicely with raw almond, honeysuckle, and lots of flinty, chalky notes. A steely, bright style but lots of depth and complexity. This is a blend of Antão Vaz with Roupeiro and Arinto. (91 points)

2017 Herdade Do Rocim “Mariana” Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon, cantaloupe, peach, with honey and magnolia petals. Medium-bodied on the palate, very fresh and bright, with peach nectar and lime. Salty, floral, dusty mineral accents, this also shows honey, almond, tropical flowers. The saline/mineral component hangs long on the crisp finish. Very versatile, summer-friendly, a brighter style that will go well with all sorts of foods. From the Vidigueira sub-zone, this is 60% Antão Vaz, 30% Arinto and 10% Alvarinho. 12.5% alcohol. Insane value. (89 points)

2017 Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $12
Light yellow color. The nose is bright and peachy with mangos and limes (nice contrast), along with spicy herbs, wildflowers and creamy, honeyed notes. Lovely texture on the palate yet the acidity is precise, and there’s a nice tropical/citrus mix (mango and pineapple drizzled with lime). Notes of honey, salted almond, smashed rocks, chalk and dried flowers add all sorts of complexity. This is absurdly good for the price, a dynamic and exciting white blend of 40% Antão Vaz, 40% Roupeiro and 20% Perrum, fermented in stainless steel. 14.5% alcohol. (90 points)

2017 Herdade do Esporão Esporão Reserva Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. An interesting nose of peaches, apricot jam, glazed pear, with honeycomb, whipped butter and floral tones. Full-bodied and plump with medium acidity, and juicy apricot and glazed pear. Lots of rich notes of almond and honey comb but I also get some floral tones and an attractive salty-briny aspect. Big and delicious, but nuanced and food-friendly as well. Antao Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro and others, aged six months in a mix of steel, and some new French and American oak. (88 points)

Reds

2017 Herdade do Esporão Colheita - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $18
Deep purple color. Suave dark fruit on the nose (roasted fig, plum, black currant) with anise, coffee, violets and dark, rich earth. Full-bodied, quite a grip to the tannins but the edges are round and the acidity is lively. Juicy but tangy black fruit mixes nicely with coffee, pepper, anise, rosemary, clove. It’s accessible in it’s youth, but has the structure to improve for at least three to five years. Touriga Nacional, Cabernet, Aragonez and other varieties, co-fermented, foot treading, aging in concrete – this is another impressive example of the quality and value from Alentejo. (90 points)

2016 Herdade do Esporão Quinta dos Murças “Minas” - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. On the nose, there is a ton of earthy and spicy complexity, with anise, black pepper, charcoal, with a core of dark but tangy currant fruit. Medium to full-bodied with some serious grip to the tannins, but fresh acidity. Black currant and tart plum kinds of fruit, with a mix of spicy tones (anise, pepper, clove) with espresso, and underlying mineral, stony and graphite elements, lots of complexity. For a wine at this price point, this has serious concentration and could benefit from some cellar time. A schist soil blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and others, aged in concrete and old French oak for nine months. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Alicante Bouschet's Adopted Home of Alentejo, Portugal

Winemaker Iain Richardson in his Alicante vineyard
at Herdade do Mouchao, in Portugal's Alentejo region.

In the summer of 2018, I spent a week exploring Portugal’s Alentejo region, and I came back with a much deeper respect for its wines, history and culture. Stretching inland, east of Lisbon, this hot, dry region is home to vast swaths of cork forests and vineyards spread across a countryside of rolling hills and farms.

One of things that surprised me most about Alentejo was how many good to excellent wines I tasted made from the Alicante Bouschet grape. With more than 100 years of experience with this grape, Alentejo and Alicante have a long, symbiotic relationship, and winemakers there have learned how to harness the full potential of this grape.

In the 1880s, a Frenchman named Henri Bouschet created the grape by crossing Petit Bouschet (itself a cross of two even more obscure grapes) with Grenache. The result was a thick-skinned, dark-colored grape variety that showed good defense against rot. It can produce such dark wines that Portuguese winemakers took to calling it Tinta de Excrever, which means “writing ink.” Fun fact: Alicante is a rare teinturier variety, which means the pulp inside is red (like the Georgian grape Saperavi). The grape flourished in California during prohibition, as its resistance to rot meant grapes could handle transportation to home winemakers and bootleggers. Because of its dark color and intensity, it was also widely used as a blending grape in order to add some meat and potatoes to thinner wines.

But it was a man looking to make some money in the cork business who helped this grape reach its pinnacle. In the mid-1800s, Thomas Reynolds (an Oporto-based exporter of Port, cork, and other goods) moved his family to the rural, largely untouched region of Alentejo. He established a massive estate, Herdade do Mouchão, dominated by cork tree forests, but also olive trees and vineyards. Sometime before the turn of the 20th Century, two professors from Montpellier brought cuttings of Alicante Bouschet to Mouchão, where it adapted well. In 1901, the Reynolds family built a winery, adding a distillery in 1929. The original winery is still functioning, and it operated without electricity until 1991! It is one of the most fascinating wineries I’ve had the pleasure of visiting. And the wines, especially the flagship red, are stunning.

With more than 200 indigenous grape varieties to choose from, it’s amazing an imported science experiment found such a foothold in Alentejo. But wine history is weird like that. Today, growers all over Alentejo use Alicante, frequently blending it with other indigenous and international grape varieties. Many respected winemakers use traditional methods of hand-picking and food-treading the grapes in large concrete or marble containers. Alicante Bouschet benefits from barrel aging, and it can withstand a good amount of new, toasty oak, though I'm more inclined toward wines that have been aged for long periods in large, old wood. No matter how it is made or where the vineyard is, these are almost always dark, concentrated, tannic, long-aging wines. But the best Alicantes maintain fresh acidity that helps balance out the density. The dark fruit is also accented by these notes of leather, pepper, charcoal, and herbs and spices, which I find really attractive. Pairing options with grilled meats and vegetables are endless.

I recently had the chance to revisit some Alicante Bouschet wines form Alentejo, most of which I had tasted during my trip. For fun, I tasted the wines single-blind, just to see if the Mouchão would stand out and wow me as much as it has in the past. (Spoiler alert: for my palate, this wine is so special that it stands out like a sore thumb.) Like many wines I enjoy from Alentejo, some of these are highly impressive for the money, and most of them could (or should) benefit from years in the cellar.

My notes on these wines (which were received as trade samples), are below.

2016 Herdade Do Rocim Alicante Bouschet - Portugal, Alentejo, Vinho Regional Alentejano

SRP: $20

Vibrant, dark purple color. Deep nose of black cherries and concentrated plums, loaded with smoky incense, sweet clove and espresso, leather, dried violets, and an earthy-smashed rock note, too. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and the acidity is really surprising here, giving the wine some lift and freshness. Complex earthy, savory, floral notes – leather, anise, charcoal, and all sorts of incense sticks and perfumed, musky notes. This could do well with five years in the cellar, yet it’s accessible at this young age, too. I tasted this last year at the winery, but I found this bottle to be even better and more expressive. (90 points)

2012 Doña Maria Grande Reserva - Portugal, Alentejo, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $45
Bright purple color. Rich, dark, saucy aromas (black cherries, blueberries, blackberry), and a deep blend of eucalyptus, incense, cedar. Bold presence on the palate, structured but velvety, with medium acidity, which helps on a 14.5% frame. Scorched earth, mocha, coffee, charcoal. Rich and suave yet fresh, too, this would do well with three to eight years in the cellar or a long decant, but this is impressive stuff. 50% Alicante Bouschet with Petit Verdot, Syrah and Touriga Nacional from clay and limestone soils in the Estremoz subregion. Aged 12 months in French oak. (91 points)

2016 Herdade dos Grous Moon Harvested - Portugal, Alentejo, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Dark and rich on the nose, saucy plums and blackberry sauce, with violets, coffee, anise and vanilla notes. Full-bodied with grippy tannins and some medium-low acidity to help balance it out. A dark and saucy appeal with rich black cherry, blackberries, dark plums. There’s a lot of cocoa, anise, coffee and scorched earth notes here, too, along with cedar and espresso. Hedonistic style that is accessible now, but built well enough to cellar, too. All Alicante Bouschet from schist soils. (89 points)

2013 Herdade do Mouchão Alentejo - Portugal, Alentejo
SRP: $60

Inky dark purple color. It takes time but out come aromas of pretty, complex black fruits, waves of roasted chestnut, leather, incense, mint, black pepper and earth. Lots of strength and power on the palate with grippy tannins yet it’s not too overt, and the acidity keeps it fresh. Tangy, deep black fruit mixes so well with waves of complex non-fruit notes (leather, sage, incense, smoky earth, anise). There are also these deep notes of rocks, minerals, charcoal. Rich fruit, but it’s so nuanced and vibrant as well. This will be gorgeous in 30 years (no kidding), it’s that kind of a wine. The balance, depth and elegance is in a class of its own. Alicante Bouschet with some Trincadeira blended in as well, the wine spends two years in old, 500-liter mahogany casks. (95 points)

2015 Herdade São Miguel Alicante Bouschet - Portugal, Alentejo, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $23
Bright purple color. Nose pops with saucy blueberries and blackberries, mixed with incense, lavender, violets, anise and charcoal. Full and big on the palate with grippy tannins and some medium, moderating acidity. Dense but crunchy dark fruit (blackberry, blueberry, black cherry) topped in a complex mix of anise, charcoal, black pepper, graphite. This is well-built to improve in the cellar, or it would benefit from a serious decant. Alicante from clay and schist soils, aged 12 months in French oak. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Herdade do Mouchão & the Apex of Alicante Bouschet

The exceptional Alentejo producer Herdade do Mouchão still operates in the original winery, built in 1901.

You’d never find it if you weren’t searching for it. Leaving the small Alentejo village of Estremoz, you pass copses of cork trees before pulling onto a bumpy, winding dirt road littered with boar tracks. Tucked back alongside a sleepy creek bed, Herdade do Mouchão is one of the most memorable wineries I’ve ever visited.

Here, in the Alentejo region of southern Portugal, the Herdade do Mouchão winery seems frozen in time. Oporto resident Thomas Reynolds moved to this rural and largely untouched region around the turn of the 20th Century, mostly to get into the flourishing cork business. He planted vines and built a winery in 1901. A distillery was added in 1929 to produce brandy, and his descendants planted more vines throughout the middle of the 20th Century. Following Portugal’s revolution in 1974, the state expropriated the estate, which deteriorated until it was returned to the family in 1985.

Herdade do Mouchão ages its top wines in old and large (500-liter) casks made of mahogany.

That original winery (which operated without electricity until 1991!) is still in use today, and defines the aesthetic and purpose of Herdade do Mouchão in the 21st Century. The estate is currently run by Elizabeth (daughter of former winemaker Albert Hugh Reynolds) and Iain Richardson. On a June trip to this estate, Iain told me his goal is to preserve that special history. “We want to keep it that way,” he said. “We want to make wines the old way.”

And every aspect of the winemaking here harkens back to a time long past. “There’s really not much sophistication,” Iain said, describing the winemaking style as “rudimentary, in the best sense of the word.” The winery uses only estate grapes, sourced from 40 hectares of vines. (The rest of the massive 1,000 hectare estate is mostly cork forests, with about 50 hectares of olive trees as well.

The grapes are hand harvested and dumped through old wooden windows into large cement fermentation tubs, called lagares, and workers stomp the grapes with their bare feet twice a day for about a week. Some of the wines are then transferred to stainless steel or small oak barrels, some of the only signs of relatively modern technology, while the high-end wines are aged in old 500-liter vats, made from mahogany wood.

While the winery produces some white wine (a blend of indigenous Portuguese varieties), the lynchpin of Herdade do Mouchão is the Alicante Bouschet grape. This grape was created in France in the 1860s, when Henri Bouschet crossed the grape Petite Bouschet (itself a cross between two obscure varieties) with Grenache. Alentejo became the grape’s adopted home, however, largely due to the efforts of Herdade do Mouchão.

Iain Richardson shows off the estate's oldest Alicante Bouschet vines, which go into the estate's flagship bottling.

The grape flourished after the outbreak of phylloxera, when winemakers found its relatively high yields to be an attractive pursuit. The grape ripens early and has a rare dark-colored pulp, so finished wines contain not only color from the grape skins, but from the juice itself. Alicante can produce wines with high alcohol and strong tannins, but the best growers know how to harness greatness from this grape. And, it seems to me, Herdade do Mouchão is the apex of Alicante.

For the winery’s Dom Rafael red blend, Iain blends in Trincadeira and Aragonez (aka Tempranillo) with Alicante, while the winery’s flagship wine, Mouchão, is made up of about 90% Alicante Bouschet with some Trincadeira. I was only able to taste one vintage of this glorious wine, the 2013, but it was easily the “greatest” wine I tasted on the trip. Delicious, fascinating, unique, and capable of aging decades, easily. Mouchão also produces a Port-style fortified Alicante Bouschet that is also amazing.

Below, I’ve included tasting notes on all the wines I tasted while visiting with Iain.

Winemaker Iain Richardson is an Alicante wizard.

2017 Herdade do Mouchão Dom Rafael Branco
This was one of the most surprising wines of the trip for me, as I was expecting a basic entry-level white and found an exciting, complex, thrilling wine. So floral and bright on the nose with lemons, apricots, crust sea salt, cucumber slices, baby's breath. Medium-bodied palate, rich texture but so crisp and lively, with a deep, underlying mineral presence. Lemon, lime, apricot, topped in lemon verbena, honeysuckle, baby's breath. Chalky finish. Wow. Antão Vaz, Arinto, Perrum and Fernão Pires. (91 points)

2015 Herdade do Mouchão Dom Rafael Tinto
As I tasted this, I thought: If this is the entry-level red, I am in for a serious treat. This is exceptionally good, fresh, inviting, complex yet so easy to drink. Floral (violets and roses) on the nose, with raspberries, black cherries, pepper and earth, gorgeous stuff. Bold presence but so balanced on the palate, built well but medium acidity. Juicy black cherry fruit laced with roses, bay leaf and black pepper. Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Aragonez. (90 points)

2014 Herdade do Mouchão Ponte das Canas
Gorgeous depth of fruit on the nose (blackberry, black cherry, plum) along with complex earth, tar, pepper, violets. Structured with grippy tannins yet fresh acidity on the palate, the balance is so nice. Black cherries and plums mix wonderfully with roasted herbs, coffee, iron, black pepper. Long finish with earth and minerals. Concentrated yet not harsh, this will age 5-8 years easily. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Syrah, aged in 300-liter French oak barrels for 24 months, aged a year in bottle before release. (92 points)

2013 Herdade do Mouchão
Oh my god this wine is fantastic. I could not believe my senses, it was that good. Incredible depth on the nose: blackberry, blueberry, black cherry, with complex violets, leather, incense sticks, rosemary, mint - just endless nuance on the nose. Concentrated, rich, deep on the palate, this is incredibly young but the quality is undeniable. Tannic yet somehow velvety, big yet somehow not too heavy. Blackberry, blueberry, black cherry, the fruit is pure, vibrant, complex, layered. Complex elements of loam, scorched earth, black pepper, incense sticks, bay leaf, mushroom. Deep earthy-mineral tones. This could be aged for three decades or something, it has that level of depth. Alicante Bouschet with about 10% Trincadeira. The wine of the trip for me. (96 points)

2012 Herdade do Mouchão Alentejo Vinho Licoroso
Really solid fortified Alicante Bouschet from Mouchao. On the nose, I get blueberries, fig cookies, roasted plums, candied pecans, clove. Rich texture, tannins are grippy but have rounded edges, little bit of acidity helps it stay moving. Warm, sweet but woven together well, delicious plum cake, blackberry jam and roasted figs. I get notes of coconut, cinnamon, cocoa powder, sweet espresso. Earthy, charcoal notes on the finish. Very impressed with this wine. (92 points)

The Exceptional Alentejo Wines of Susana Esteban

In June, I spent a week digging into the wines and culture of Alentejo, a fascinating and historic winegrowing region of southern Portugal. I visited lots of wineries, tasted tons of really good wine, but if I had to name a favorite, easy: Susana Esteban. 

Most of the wine-growing regions of Alentejo feature sun-roasted rolling hills, cork forests, mixed in with fields of cereals, grazing livestock, and the scattered village or town. Susana Esteban sources her fruit from higher elevation sites in the Portalegre area of Alentejo. This is in the northeast part of Alentenjo, near the Serra de Sao Mamede National Park, which abuts the Spanish border. 

Spanish by birth, Susana has worked as a consulting winemaker in the Douro and Alentejo before starting her own project, Procura, in 2011. The idea, as she explained it to me on a recent trip, was to focus on “small quantity, high quality.” After tasting her wines, I can say with enthusiasm that the quality is indeed very high. 

She tracked down some exceptional fruit for her wines: a hilly site that sits about 700 meters above sea level in granite and schist soils. An old school vineyard, different indigenous Portuguese varieties are inter-planted in a field blend style, and some of the vines are 80 years old. “When I found this vineyard,” she explained during my visit, “I can’t believe it still exists here.”

She sources fruit from other sites for her entry-level Aventura wines (which I found excellent for the price). The grapes for Susana’s wines are hand-harvested, and she ferments her wine in a mix of stainless steel and large, old oak barrels, always aiming, she says, for “freshness.” Susana only produces some 30,000 bottles of wine a year, but the wines are imported into the U.S. by the Spanish Acquisition and Ideal Wine & Spirits. 

If you ever see a wine with her name on it, pay close attention. These are thrilling, dynamic, unique wines that stun for their price. Below are the notes I took on the wines I tasted. 

2017 Susana Esteban Aventura Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$19
Aromas are super peachy and bright but steely, too. Crisp, bright, brisk, mineral-driven on the palate with chalky notes, baby’s breath and green olive notes mixed with the juicy green apple and lemon fruit. Mineral dust note stand out, this shows lovely texture but such freshness. A co-fermented field blend from 30-year-old vineyards in Portalegre, which is at higher elevation, 700 meters. (89 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Gorgeous aromatics of lemon curd, apricot, peaches, with yellow flowers and raw almonds. The textural depth is amazing, brisk acidity, lovely combo with peaches and lemon curd. Complex elements of sea salt, mineral, dusty chalk. Layered, vibrant, complex, deep, yet so refreshing. No lees-stirring, no maloactic fermentation, this is aged in old oak. Fascinating, excellent white field blend from 80-year-old vines. (93 points) 

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Amphora - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Clay sample. This unfinished wine is awesome. Brisk and floral aromas on the nose with apricot and lemon pith. The palate is bright and tangy but shows an earthy, waxy depth with flavors of almond and spiced white tea. Intriguing and delicious. (91 points) 

2017 Susana Esteban Sidecar - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$N/A 
One of the most fascinating white wines of the trip. Pear nectar, guava and flowers on the nose. Crisp acidity on the palate, lovely texture, mineral depth. Complex notes of sea salt, honeycomb, oyster shell, bread crumbs, with apricot and tangerine fruit. Complex, mouthfeel is gorgeous, this is a unique and exciting blend that's aged in huge Alsace-style foudre. I'd love to see how it ages, because it's seriously good stuff. (93 points) 

2015 Susana Esteban Aventura Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$19
Nose shows raspberries and cherry preserves, violets and spiced tea, chestnut and pope tobacco. Freshness on this wine is key, dusty, fine tannins and lively acidity. Raspberries, black cherries, plums, the fruit mixes with smoky, earthy, tobacco elements. Delicious, approachable but serious juice. A blend of Aragones, Touriga Nacional and other varieties, all stainless steel. (88 points) 

2013 Susana Esteban Procura Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Concentrated aromas of black cherries, currant compote, warm clay, espresso, dark earth. Bold and concentrated on the palate with some strong tannins, yet an underlying freshness keeps it bright. Deep blackberry and currant fruit, mixed with complex elements of black tea, anise, black pepper, scorched earth. Lots of depth here, and aging potential. Alicante Bouschet-based blend, aged 16 months in French oak, 30% new. (91 points) 

2016 Susana Esteban Castelão Sem Vergonha - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$33
Waves of bright red fruit on the nose, cranberry, currants, along with black cherries, rose petals, some roasted herbs. Lighter style, this has an inviting smoothness and fresh acidity with solid tannic structure, but nothing here is harsh. Cranberry, black cherries, mixed with rose potpourri and some tobacco notes. 100% Castelão, aged 12 months in old French oak barrels, 13.1% alcohol. Susana made this wine as a challenge with Dirk Niepoort to make a "Burgundian" wine, and I think she nailed it. (91 points)

Lighter Side of Alentejo - White Wines Offer Quality, Value

Susana Esteban's white wines (field blends from old
vines, indigenous varieties) were some of the  most
exciting wines (red or white) I tasted in Alentejo.

Ask a group of wine geeks to free associate based on the phrase “Alentejo wines” and I’m guessing you’ll get comments about big, bold, jammy red wines. And they wouldn’t be wrong. But, after spending five days tasting my way through this region of Southern Portugal, I was impressed with how many exciting white wines I found.

Aside from the thrilling and ancient amphora wines of Alentejo (which I wrote about in detail in this post), the high quality of the white wine (branco in Portuguese) was one of my biggest takeaways from the trip. White wine grapes are seriously outnumbered, with about 27,000 acres planted to red grapes and less than 9,000 planted to whites, according to data from the Vine and Wine Commission of Alentejo. But that’s still a lot of white wine, spread out across a large region, and the quality can be quite high.

Antão Vaz came up again and again in the wines that I found exciting, usually as the dominant grape in a blend. This indigenous local variety is heralded especially in the subregions of Evora and Vidigueira. It survives well in heat and is quite drought-resistant, which comes in handy in a region that has suffered through several years of drought. (Although this year has been quite wet, and I certainly got rained on quite a bit during my visit in early June.) The grape is quite aromatic and provides lots of oomph to white blends, and can stand up to a good amount of new oak. However, the grape can lack focused acidity, especially if picked later.

Hence: Arinto. This grape which can produce crisp, vibrant wines with deep minerality and tropical fruits. This wine popped up again and again in the white blends I fell for. Gouveio fits into blends quite a bit as well, which used to be called Verdelho, and that was confusing (as grape names are always) because it’s genetically separate from the Verdelho of Madeira fame.

Roupeiro and Fernão Pires round out the grapes you’re most likely to encounter in Alentejo white blends. Portugal has tons of indigenous grape varieties, and I definitely encountered some hard-to-pronounce grapes I’d never heard of before. But I also found some white Rhone grapes that seem to do quite well in this hot region, and I even found an exciting Sauv Blanc from a cooler vineyard near the ocean.

Stylistically, the whites were all over the map. From lip-smacking, lighter-bodied versions to drink with Portuguese seafood, to rich, unctuous, barrel-fermented, lees-stirred creamsicles — there’s a bit of everything out there.

I gathered up a few interesting white wines I found on the trip to share. Most of these wines were tasted at the wineries or with the winemakers themselves, and all were tasted sighted. Most of these wines are available in the United States, and the prices based on either estimates from importers or wine-searcher results.

2017 Herdade Do Rocim Olho de Mocho Reserva Branco
$13
Nose boasts toasted nuts, lemon, mineral dust, notes of warm sand, really interesting. Crisp and brisk but the texture is rich, with lemon curd, orange peel, backed up by minerals, chalk dust, almond skin and roasted peanuts. Delicious stuff. All Antão Vaz. (90 points)

2017 Herdade do Mouchão Dom Rafael Branco
$20
This was one of the most surprising wines of the trip for me, as I was expecting a basic entry-level white and found an exciting, complex, thrilling wine. So floral and bright on the nose with lemons, apricots, crust sea salt, cucumber slices, baby's breath. Medium-bodied palate, rich texture but so crisp and lively, with a deep, underlying mineral presence. Lemon, lime, apricot, topped in lemon verbena, honeysuckle, baby's breath. Chalky finish. Wow. Antão Vaz, Arinto, Perrum and Fernão Pires. (91 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Aventura Branco
$19
Aromas are super peachy and bright but steely, too. Crisp, bright, brisk, mineral-driven on the palate with chalky notes, baby’s breath and green olive notes mixed with the juicy green apple and lemon fruit. Mineral dust note stand out, this shows lovely texture but such freshness. A co-fermented field blend from 30-year-old vineyards in Portalegre, which is at higher elevation, 700 meters. (89 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Branco
$37

Gorgeous aromatics of lemon curd, apricot, peaches, with yellow flowers and raw almonds. The textural depth is amazing, brisk acidity, lovely combo with peaches and lemon curd. Complex elements of sea salt, mineral, dusty chalk. Layered, vibrant, complex, deep, yet so refreshing. No lees-stirring, no maloactic fermentation, this is aged in old oak. Fascinating, excellent white field blend from 80-year-old vines. (93 points)

2017 FitaPreta Branco
$25
Steely, bright, floral aromas with limes, lemon and apricot. So bright on the palate, broadly texture but zesty and focused. Lemon, lime, apricot, the fruit mixes with mineral dust, white tea, honeysuckle. Bright and complex. Arinto, Roupeiro and Antão Vaz fermented in stainless steel. Complex, vibrant, eye-opening, delicious. (91 points)

2016 Adega Cooperativa de Borba Montes Claros Reserva Branco
$15
More tropical aromas here, with rich pineapple and lots of yellow flowers. Brisk but nice textural depth, with honeyed floral tones that mix well with apricot and lemon curd. Salty note on the finish, some richness from 30% of the wine seeing oak, but it’s nuanced and fresh and solid for the price. (88 points)

2016 Cortes de Cima Sauvignon Blanc
$24
I get a nose of lemons, grapefruit, white pepper and lemongrass. Zesty and floral on the palate, with peaches, lemons, chalk, lemon verbena. Very bright and vibrant. From the family’s coastal vineyards, this boasts a bright and salty approach that I find very attractive. (88 points)

2016 Cortes de Cima Branco
$22
Nougaty nose with pineapple and white peach. Plush texture on the palate but fresh, too, with apricot, white peach, honey, nougat, notes of talc and minerals. Alvarinho, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc fermented and aged in a mix of stainless steel and oak barrels. (89 points)

2016 Herdade do Esporão Reserva Branco
$17
Big and buttery on the nose with plump pears and honey. Full-bodied but fresh with chunky pineapple and pears but fresh and floral, too. 30% barrel-fermented with lees stirring, a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro. (89 points)

2015 Terras d'Alter Reserva Branco
$15
Honeysuckle, tart green and rich yellow apples, and buttercream on the nose. Crisp and lively, creamy texture but fresh, with dusty mineral and floral tones accenting the yellow apple and pineapple. Aged in old American oak with six months of battonage. (88 points)

2015 Doña Maria Amantis Reserva
$24
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, pineapple, rich yellow pear, hints of hay and nougat. Richer texture (14%), this is made with second-year oak and battonage, and that’s evident in nougat, creamy honey and butter notes, but there’s also some freshness and floral complexity. Bruised apple fruit is highly yummy. Fermented in French oak with six months of lees stirring, 14% alcohol. Made from Viognier. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Alentejo's Amphora Wines: an Ancient Tradition in Renewal

Wines aging in talha, Alentejo's amphora, at Herdade de Rocim.

With rolled eyes, several Alentejo winemakers joked with me about the reputation they think many Americans have about their wines: They’re red, they’re high in alcohol, and they’re doused with too much oak. While I did get my palate pleasantly pounded by a brutal 16.5% red aged in all new oak, for the most part, this reputation (if it was once somewhat accurate), is undeserved.

Case in point: the talha wines from this region of southern Portugal. Talha is the Portuguese term for clay fermentation pots, also known by their Greco-Roman name amphora. And in Altentejo the talha tradition runs deep — 2,000 years, to the days of the Roman Empire. Except for Georgia (where using open-topped clay pots is a much older custom), Alentejo is the only region in the world with such a long history of producing wines this way.

On a recent trip, sponsored by Wines of Alentejo, I dug deep into the Alentejo wine culture and found an exciting mix of ancient practices and modern innovation. A new generation of winemakers is keeping this history alive, while adding their own signature. Over the course of a week, I tasted tons of wines, and, far and away, I was most thrilled with the talha wines, or vinhas da talha.

In the glass, generally speaking, I get bright and floral aromas, which can be shocking complex, inviting, and pleasantly different. The flavor profile of the grapes (usually blends) shines through wonderfully, unhindered by any toast or oak influences. The alcohol levels are frequently around 12-13%. But the texture is what really gets me excited: smooth, fresh, sometimes slightly dusty, always unique and hard to describe (although I’ve tried in my tasting notes)

Authenticity and identity

When asked why continuing to produce wines this way is so important in the region, Joao Barroso, Wines of Alentejo’s sustainability manager, said, “It’s about the authenticity of the culture.” The more time I spent there, the more I felt, and fell in love with, this authentic wine culture.

When I asked Herdade d0 Rocim’s winemaker Vania Guibarra the same question, she said, “It’s about our identity.” She produces a white and red wine fermented in amphorae, after being crushed by foot in marble vats (called lagares), which are common in a region with active marble quarries. Generally speaking, her amphorae hold between 900 and 1,000 liters of wine, although each individual clay pot is unique in size and shape. She also ages portions of the wine for longer in smaller pots (about 140 liters), a method I found utilized by several other wineries in Alentejo.

When I tasted Vania’s white, a field blend of co-fermented indigenous Portuguese varieties, I was floored and began ranting to her about the wine’s uniqueness, freshness, and downright deliciousness. It was the first stop on my trip, and I didn’t have much luggage space, but I had to buy a bottle to bring home. Her red also impressed me, and words like “breezy,” “airy,” and “vibrant!” litter my notebook — not terms I’m used to using with red wines.
Amphorae sleeping in Adega Jose de Sousa's cellar.

Paulo Amaral of Adega Jose de Sousa

Paulo Amaral, winemaker at Adega José de Sousa and total talha guru, has one of the most extensive programs in Alentejo. His cellar has a collection of 114 talhas, which were made in the 1870s, along with several broken ones which he hasn’t moved. On a visit to his winery, Paulo set up a ladder, climbed up, and opened the top of one of his clay pots. On top of the wine floated a half-inch layer of olive oil, which he uses to protect the wine underneath from too much oxygen. He invited me to stick my hand in and taste (which, of course, I did without hesitation). The oil was doing its job, as it was highly oxidized, and licking this oil and wine mixture off my fingers was an interesting aesthetic experience for sure.

Making the wines

Talha wines have many of the qualities of so-called natural wines, loved by so-called hipsters — minimalist intervention winemaking, wild yeast fermentation, no oak, lower alcohol, and they’re commonly made from indigenous grape varieties.

Regular people all over Alentejo ferment their own house wine in amphorae, and taverns sell it straight from the talha. Yes, this method results in some flawed wines — I tasted two tavern wines that were seriously troubled. I’m sure many people make wonderful house wine in amphorae, but I can only speak of the professional vintners whose wines I tasted, winemakers who take this process, and its regional history, seriously, while producing pristine, fascinating and unique wines.

The Talha DOC (created in 2012) is a quirky appellation, regulating different aspects of this clay pot fermentation process. For example, each vintage cannot be removed from the pots before November 11 (St. Martin’s Day, a traditional wine-fueled celebration), although many winemakers hold their wines for much longer.

David Baverstock shows how to punch down
the grape cap on a fermenting talha wine.

Amphora fermentation is a labor-intensive endeavor. Twice a day, winemakers use a wooden tool to punch down the grape cap that floats to the top of the pot, or else the carbon dioxide from fermentation will cause the clay to burst. A winemaker at one facility I visited told me, from her own experience, missing a punch-down can cause a dangerous and messy explosion. Over time, the grape solids settle to the bottom, and when the talha is drained from a hole near the bottom, the wine gets something like a natural filtration.

The inside of the pots are usually lined with wax, which is applied by warming the interior of an upside-down talha, pouring in melted wax, and rolling the large pot around on its side until the wax hardens. This process is usually done once every 15 years or so, and can be repeated for the life of the pot. How long do they last? Several winemakers are still using 150- to 200-year-old pots, while Alentejo is home to some pots that are 500 years old.

Convention and experimentation

Cortes de Cima, a winery known for first planting Syrah against the appellation rules, is one of several well-known wineries that embraces the Alentejo tradition of amphora fermentation. The winery was founded by Hans Jorgensen (a Dane) and his wife Carrie (a Californian) in the late 80s. Anna, the couple’s young daughter and a vintner in her own right, takes pride in using the same method that local villagers have used for thousands of years. “These are our garagistes,” she said. Remarking on the increased attention amphora wines have received in recent years, she added, “It’s not hipster here. It’s how it’s always been done.”

For a winery known for surreptitiously producing Syrah, it’s perhaps not surprising that Cortes de Cima also does amphora wine a bit differently. The Jorgensens don’t line their vessels. Anna told me unlined vessels allow their wines to better engage with small amounts of oxygen through the porous clay. She said this helps lift the wine’s aromas and softens any rough edges.

In the cellar, she pointed to a small amphorae (about 150 liters), whose exterior is crusted and discolored with dried wine. A small puddle of wine had collected underneath the container. “This,” she said, “is the essence of what we do with these vessels.”

At first, I was skeptical, but the essence she spoke of is evident in the glass. Their 2015 Amphora was one of the most airy and elegant wines I tasted in Alentejo, with floral and red fruited aromas that pop. I wrote “textural freshness!” in my notebook and underlined it several times.

Paulo (of Adega José de Sousa) also riffs on the ancient method in his own way. In addition to bottling a white blend and a red blend, he uses portions of talha-fermented wines to blend in with other wine that have been fermented in concrete vats and aged in oak and old chestnut barrels. While not the clearest example of amphora-fermented wine, they’re both fascinating wines, and the amphora wine adds brighter notes to the more concentrated, barrel-aged wines.

Even the region’s powerhouse producer, Esporão, who produces 15 million bottles of wine a year, uses talhas. Winemaker David Baverstock said he produces about 3,000 liters of amphora wine annually, but hopes to increase production to 10,000 liters. It’s a drop in the bucket in terms of total output, but it sends a signal: talha production is important, and worth sustaining. “It’s a nice mix of old and new technology here,” David said.

Keeping tradition alive

Antonio Rocha, the first person to make these talha in Alentejo in 50 years, crafts each of these amphora by hand, layer by layer.

For almost 2,000 years winemakers sourced their amphorae from local craftspeople. Talk about sustainable — the region is rich in clay soils and the finished product can be used by local winemakers for hundreds of years, potentially. But, some 50 years ago, the last talha producer died off, and so did the local knowledge. And I was told there’s only one craftsman in the region who still professionally lines talhas with wax.

But Alentejo producers have kept the tradition going, trading talhas amongst themselves, purchasing them from other regions. I spoke with several winemakers who bought their talhas from Italy, and one (in a shock to me) said he bought his from a potter in California’s San Joaquin Valley.

Antonio Rocha is looking to change this dynamic. The 56-year-old built a career in construction, until the industry tanked, and he was forced to reinvent himself. In 2017, he formed Telheiro Artesenal, and he became the first person in Altentejo in a half-century to build new 1,000-liter talhas.

Antonio Rocha in his workshop.

There was no one to teach him, so he learned by doing, using his hands and a small putty knife. It’s a one-man show, and Antonio produces ten talhas at a time, layer by layer. Each layer has to dry before the next is built on top, so the process takes four months. Then, he fires the clay in an underground kiln, which he built, of course, by hand. Antonio sold his first batch of talhas to a museum, but he said demand from wineries far surpasses supply. He said he hopes to get some cultural preservation funding from the European Union to help him keep this project going, and perhaps expand.

Many of the talha wines I tasted and enjoyed on my trip can be found in the United States, although most are made in small amounts. The price ranges are attractive considering the quality, and many of the wines I tasted cost about $20, while some range to $40 or so. They’re exciting, dynamic wines that I personally would love to see on more restaurant lists or by-the-glass lists at wine bars. Georgian amphora wines have seen exponentially large attention from U.S. consumers over the last decade. While Alentejo wines are a smaller category, the quality is there, and the wines scream of tradition, excitement, deliciousness, value. I think the next decade could be a very bright one for Alentejo amphora wines.

Below are some of the best talha wines I tasted on my trip, all of which were tasted sighted with the producers. I’ve included price estimates from U.S. importers when available.

2016 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Branco
$20
Pretty deep yellow color. Wow, so breezy on the nose yet deep, with oranges, salted lime, almond, green olive. Brisk on the palate but rich texture, lovely smoothness, and flavors of oranges and apricot. Complex elements of almond, sea salt, olive, honeycomb. This is a field blend of white varieties from 50- to 60-year-old vines, and it is something to behold. A blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha and Manteúd. (91 points)

2016 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto
$20
Airy and bright on the nose, inviting, fresh, lively, with red fruits, roses and pepper. Brisk and fresh on the palate with medium tannins, combining for a tangy but smooth feel to this wine. Lovely red cherries, spiced tea and pepper. A co-fermented field lend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Moreto and Tinta Grossa. (91 points)

2015 Herdade do Rocim Clay Aged

Deep color. Nose of blackberries, plums, blueberry, pepper, the fruit is dark but the wine smells so bright. Velvety on the palate, freshness reigns supreme, but tannins provide serious guts to the wine. Plums, blackberry, berry compote, a velvety and gorgeous mouthfeel supports the fruit. Smoke, pepper, earth, clove and tobacco. Beautiful stuff that will age for a long time. Crushed in marble lagares, aged in 140-liter amphorae. (92 points)

2015 Cortes de Cima Amphora
$45
Aromas of warm cherries, raspberries, plums, with lifted floral tones and spiced tea. So silky on the palate despite the tannic structure, this is also a fresh and bright wine. Plums, raspberries and black cherries, the fruit is laced with warm spices, earth. Texturally intriguing and so fresh and inviting. Aragonez, Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira aged 14 months in amphora. (91 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Amphora Branco
Clay sample. This unfinished wine is awesome. Brisk and floral aromas on the nose with apricot and lemon pith. The palate is bright and tangy but shows an earthy, waxy depth with flavors of almond and spiced white tea. Intriguing and delicious. (91 points)

2017 Adega Cooperativa de Borba Vinho de Talha Tinto
So floral and bright on the nose with red berries, roses and rhubarb. Fresh, silky, gorgeous on the palate, this is 13.5% alcohol with dusty tannins and refreshing acidity. Strawberries and raspberries, topped with dried roses, dusty earth and fresh rhubarb. Crisp, mineral-driven finish. (91 points)

2015 Adega José de Sousa Puro Talha Branco
A medium orange color. Smells of candle wax, candied orange and lemon pith. 11.5% alcohol on the palate, but the texture is deep and plush, hints of tannin (whole cluster fermentation here), with bright acidity that keeps the wine moving. Lemon pith, orange peel, apricot pit, the fruit is topped in seriously complex notes of mushroom broth, green tea leaves, honeyed tea, candle wax, and dusty minerals. Complex, nerdy but so, so delicious. Wow. (93 points)

2015 Adega José de Sousa Puro Talha Tinto
So floral on the nose, with complex roses, violets, black tea and incense sticks on top of raspberries and red apple peel. Crisp and lip-smacking on the palate, tannins provide structure but have rounded edges, and I get crunchy raspberries and red apple peel. Notes of leather, incense, earth and clay, warm spice, complex elements of mushroom and savory broth. Gorgeous, such precision and balance, I’d love to age this for five to ten years. Fascinating, special, delicious. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.