Sunday, November 20, 2022

American Wines from Coast to Coast

With Thanksgiving coming up, I wanted to share some American wines I think would fit well with any seasonal fare you and your friends and family may be serving. These represent a drop in the bucket of the diversity in regions, of course, but I’d be stoked to share these wines with my family and friends this week.

I haven’t (yet) made a wine trip to Long Island’s North Fork – but that’s long overdue. I’m a long-time East Coast wine fan, and it’s been awesome to see the growth in regions like Virginia, Maryland, and others since I started paying attention about 15 years ago. Recently, I received a six-pack of wines from Long Island’s North Fork that made me think: I’ve gotta get out there already!

And speaking of Virginia: Early Mountain. I love this place and their wines – just such reliably exciting, delicious, honest Virginia expressions. Their Petit Manseng rocks, and is worth checking out if you don’t have much experience with this grape and worth checking out even more if you do. Their reds offer a lot of juicy, spicy, Virginia goodness as well. And the value in here is really something. Very much worth a visit if you’re ever passing through the region.

Troon shouldn’t be a new name to long-time readers, as I’ve been stoked on this Oregon producer’s wines for years. This biodynamic outfit from Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley is always experimenting with exciting blends and styles. But two of their classic reds in this report make for great cold weather sipping.

And, of course, California is represented here. FEL delivers again with two delightful Savoy Vineyard wines from Anderson Valley that are a great choice for Pinot and Chard-lovers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $52
Medium yellow color. A deep but lively aromatic blend of yellow apples, tart lemons, with nougat and almond, cinnamon crumb cake, and notes of ginger and chalk dust, too. The palate shows crisp acidity and a creamy mouthfeel, with flavors of lemon bars and yellow apples and pears. The complexities in here are exceptional: almond cake, honey, yellow flowers, cinnamon, shaved ginger, with an underlying mineral essence. Gorgeous depth and texture, this should age wonderfully. 13.8% alcohol, this wine is aged 16 months on the lees in 35% new oak. (93 points)

2020 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant cherry color. The nose is lovely, with these waves of tangy raspberries, strawberries, with rose petals, clay pot, tobacco, earthy-savory tones, too – there’s a lot to unpack in here. Warm and smooth on the palate with structured tannins and vibrant acidity. Red cherries, tangy strawberries, juicy raspberries, the fruit is laced with tones of floral perfume, pepper, clove, clay and potting soil elements. Suave, silky, crisp, this is ready to drink but will open up nicely over the coming years. 13.9% alcohol, aged 16 months in 24% new French oak. (93 points)

N.V. Sparkling Pointe Brut Nature - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $42
Light gold color. I like the chalky, salty, flinty aromas (really catches the oceanic vibes of Long Island) with some honey and yellow flowers, and lemon and green apple fruit. Juicy yellow apple and lime fruit on the palate, supported with brisk acidity and some nuanced baguette tones. Chalky, spritely and dry, with fresh cut floral stems, dandelion and some spiced white tea. Fun, fresh, delicious blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier from this prolific sparkling wine producer. (88 points)

2020 Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $28
Bright yellow color. Lovely aromatic display here, with an infusion of juicy peaches and limes, chalk dust and saline, sugar cane, and fresh new tennis balls (in a good way!). Racy acidity frames the palate nicely, balanced sugar throughout, with big chunks of fresh pineapples, drizzled with lime. The chalk dust, crushed sea shells and minerals linger long on the finish. Racy, refreshing and tasty. (90 points)

2021 Lieb Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Bridge Lane - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $16
Medium straw color. Bright and floral on the nose, with tangy limes and juicy white peaches, topped in white flowers, mint and celery seed tones. Zippy, crisp and floral on the nose, with some pleasant creaminess and flavors of white peaches, pineapple and limes. Flinty, chalky tones, with a creamy but vibrant finish. Fun, fresh, a lot of personality for the price here. Really solid value. (87 points)

2021 Macari Vineyards Horses - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $29
Bright fizzy raspberry color. Spritely and tangy on the palate, with crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, with notes of white pepper, rose hips and bay leaf. Dusty texture, very zesty, this has a crunchy feel with tangy red apples and cranberry fruit. Fun and fresh with some cool spicy, herbal tones. A fun accompaniment to a wide variety of foods for sure. A crown cap Cabernet Franc sparkler, destemmed, it spends two days on the skins and is disgorged after five months. (88 points)

2019 Pellegrini Vineyards Chardonnay Stainless Steel - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $23
Pale lemon color. A tangy and brisk style on the nose with lemons and green apples, lemon verbena, seashells, some dandelion and daisy tones. Floral and tangy on the palate with citrus and green apple fruits on a crunchy, vibrant frame. Flinty, oceanic goodness abounds in this seafood-friendly style Chardonnay. (88 points)

2019 Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard Pink Satin - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $34
Pale salmon color. Nose pops with white cherries and strawberries, along with notes of honeysuckle, mint and orange blossom. Crisp acidity, moderate but balanced sugar adds some creaminess and sweetness, but it stays refreshing. Notes of tangy strawberries and juicy cherries, with some nice tea, white pepper and floral perfume tones. A nice salty kick on the finish as well. Melot, Cab Franc and Cab Sauv. (86 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. The nose kicks off with a great burst of smoky, beefy, peppery goodness, with roasted red pepper and mesquite, grille steak, over tangy blueberries and black cherry fruit. The palate shows nice grip with smooth tannic edges and delightfully fresh acidity and tangy plums, blueberries and black cherry fruit. The complex notes of roasted red pepper, soy, glazed mushrooms, gravelly earth and clove. Age-worthy but fresh, this has a lot of deliciousness and savory goodness packed in here, especially for the price. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Tannat - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose of tart black currants and blackberries is great, laced with complexities of smashed rocks, anise, tar, pencil shavings, dried violet petals. The palate is grippy but suave with tangy acidity and a nice core of tar blueberries and currants. Elements of smoky earth, charcoal, anise, coffee grounds and violets add complexity. The notes of savory broth and mushroom need years to unravel, and this will age gloriously for quite some time. Deep, tangy, balanced, spicy – a ton to love. (92 points)

2020 Early Mountain Vineyards Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $30
Rich gold color. The nose bursts with personality, showing deep apricot, orange marmalade, candied lemon peel, with notes of honey, graham cracker, white flowers, mint leaves and some salty tones. The palate shows classic Petit Manseng vibes with racy acidity, lip-smacking goodness, and rich, waxy texture, and the balance is just lovely. Nuanced throughout, with a complex mix of honey, hay, almond, yellow flowers. Exciting, delicious stuff that I’d love to taste in three to five years. Includes 4% Pinot Gris and 3% Chardonnay. (90 points)

2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc Shenandoah Valley - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $30
Medium ruby color. Loving the spicy aromatic kick here, with rose hips, black and white pepper, forest floor, along with a display of fresh raspberries, red apple and black cherry fruit. The palate is so fresh but deeply textured, with dusty tannins and a bright core of black cherries and wild raspberries. Lovely earthy tones, red clay, and notes of sage, white pepper, some black olive. Delightfully fresh appeal but a lot of complexity and depth as well. This should age nicely for a few years. If you haven’t tried Shenandoah Cab Franc, this is a great intro and value. (91 points)

2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Foothills - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $27
Deep ruby color. Inviting and juicy on the nose, with raspberries, red plums, topped in hefty amounts of roses, pepper, violets, leather and clove. The palate is silky and zippy with tangy red and black cherry fruit, juicy strawberries, the fruit is just delish. Notes of sage, rose petals, mint, spiced tea, it adds a lovely autumnal complexity. So darn fun. A fascinating blend of 28% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Petit Verdot, 8% Tanat, 8% Petit Manseng and 5% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

Tuesday, November 8, 2022

Wine Reviews: Fresh Fall Values

With Halloween behind us, I’ve started seeing holiday decorations and displays going up in stores these past few days. But we still have plenty of fall left, and November is one of my favorite months. I’m looking forward to spending time in the mountains, cold nights, gathering with friends and family. But before we transition into the holiday season and crack open the Champagne and burly red wines, I have some offerings on the lighter side of the spectrum. And holiday travel, cooking, etc., can get expensive, so the selections this week all highlight value.

Vinho Verde brings to mind hot summer days with a plate of oysters (and that is certainly a great idea). But I’ve got some complex Vinho Verdes this week that offer more complexity and even some aging potential. No joke, I’d consider cellaring these two for a year or two and see what happens, as they have the depth and complexity to benefit from it.

If you’re looking to restock on some bright white wines and save some money, I’ve got two wines from Val de Vid, from Rueda in Spain. I also have two German samples I received from Wines of Germany. It was while living in Germany my senior year of high school that I had my first vineyard and wine appreciation experience, and I always keep some German wines on hand for holiday gatherings. And we round things out with a bright red blend from Portugal.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites

2020 Richard Bocking Pinot Blanc - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Spritely on the nose with chalk dust and floral perfume, basil and honeysuckle, over top of limes, green apple and kiwi. The palate is flinty and dry with vibrant acidity and a zesty, crystalline feel. The green apple and kiwi fruit is crunchy and precise with classic Mosel minerals and flinty undertones. Lots of floral and herbal complexity, too, this has a mountain stream quality to it, which is a ton of fun. (90 points)

2021 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro Vinho Verde - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $18
Light yellow color. Popping aromas of white peaches drizzled with lime, topped with daisies and dandelions, some honey and sliced celery as well. The palate shows zesty acidity and pleasant depth of texture, the balance between taut energy and some creaminess is pleasant. Peaches, lemons and limes, with salty, chalky, mineral tones, along with floral perfume and cut flower stems. Fresh, lively and fun, but the balance and complexity are legit. 100% Loureiro from estate-grown fruit. (89 points)

2021 Herdade do Esporão Vinho Verde Bico Amarelo - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $12
Juicy yellow color. Aromas of pineapple and lemon, along with some fresh mountain stream vibes, with yellow flowers, honeysuckle and some sliced cucumber. Delightful textural weight is balances by brisk acidity, and I love the flavors of tart lemon, kiwi and pineapple. Lots of flowers, but they’re nuanced and woven in well, never overpowering things. Pithy, spritely and complex, this is one of the more interesting Vinho Verde’s you may find. 40% Loureiro, 30% Alvarinho and 30% Avesso. (90 points)

2021 Val de Vid Rueda - Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $13
Medium yellow color. A meadow of wildflower goodness on the nose, with peaches and kiwi and clean laundry. Punchy and crisp on the palate with brisk acidity and flavors of papaya, peaches and lemon juice. Some waxy elements mix with tones of white pepper, oregano, basil, and the wine shows some salty, briny vibes as well. Lovely wine for salads and seafoods. 85% Verdejo from 25-year-old vines and 15% Viura from 50-year-old vines. (88 points)

2021 Val de Vid Verdejo Rueda - Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $14
Medium yellow color. Super bright on the nose, with a floral potpourri of white and yellow flowers and some basil, fresh cucumbers and honeysuckle, over top of peaches and papaya. Bright and zesty on the palate but nice texture, balanced well with roundness and freshness. Papaya, peach and orange peel fruit blends well with honey, basil, sliced green onion, chalk dust. Floral, fun, bright and versatile. All Verdejo from 25-30 year-old vines. (88 points)

Reds

2019 Ritual Pinot Noir - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $21
Deep ruby color. Bright and juicy on the nose with a nice mix of red apple peel, black cherry and wild raspberry, topped in notes of black pepper, rose hips and rhubarb. The palate shows fine-grained tannins and crisp acidity, over a bed of tangy cherry, red currant and pomegranate fruit. Notes of black pepper, charcoal, rose petals and rhubarb add complexity. Fresh and fun, spicy and floral, showing good complexity. Look, it’s rare I find a $20 Pinot I’d purchase and share with guests, but this is it. Aged 11 months in French oak. (89 points)

2019 August Kesseler Pinot Noir The Daily August
- Germany, Rheingau
SRP: $25
Medium ruby color. The nose is spicy and floral with rose hips, white pepper and tobacco, mixing well with tangy red apple and juicy raspberry fruit, some earthy, savory undertones. Fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins on the palate, a mix of deeper black cherry fruit with tart red apples, and there’s a lot of peppery, tobacco and sage vibes that make this fun and interesting. Fun and fresh, but nice depth of mouthfeel and complexity. I would love to mix this wine in blind at a pinot tasting and see what folks guess. (I bet it gets some love, too). (90 points)

2019 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro Comboio do Vesuvio Unoaked - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $22
Bright purple color. Nice tart dark fruit on the nose (black cherries and dark plums), along with a pleasant mix of smoky, gravelly earth, with violets and magic marker tones. Medium-bodied on the palate, dusty tannins with rounded edges, medium acidity. Tangy dark plums and black cherries, the fruit is accented with rocky earth, graphite, violets, some tar and pine tones. Everything’s woven together well, with a nice floral and spicy finish. A fresher take, and a great intro to Douro red blends at a solid price. (89 points)