California wines for the Olympics

Paris in April, setting up for the games.

The Summer Olympics kicked off today in France and I am stoked. My family and I look forward to cheering on the athletes during gymnastics, swimming, and – since my daughter and I both follow and love it – climbing.

But I also look forward to watching the best of the best at other events, discovering and following new-to-me sports and the experts who compete in them. I appreciate excellence in all its forms.

I apply that similar attitude to wine, as I’m always looking for new producers, regions, grapes, and getting excited about all sorts of different styles.

In the Spring, my family spent a few days in Paris and saw the preparation for the games underway. We enjoyed all the food, culture, and views, and talked about how we would watch the Olympics and try to recognize all the places we had visited.

So, to celebrate the start of the games, I’m highlighting some American wines because, well, I’m American. But I’m also a Francophile, so I decided to highlight some California wines with something of an Old World, French inspiration. They’re pure California goodness, but some could also make great ringers in blind tastings of their French counterparts.

Cormorant Cellars has delivered some unique wines since they kicked off in 2018. This Sonoma-based producer makes an amazing lees-aged Sauvignon Blanc that I can’t recommend enough, but I was happy to taste through some new-to-me wines for this report. Winemaker Charlie Gilmore is clearly skilled and has some great talent and inspiration. Fans of Mediterranean Vermentino be alert – there’s something really cool here. And Beaujolais fans should really check out their Gamay.

Three Sticks makes phenomenal Chards and Pinots from Sonoma, and the wines in this report speak for themselves. This producer was founded in 2002 by Bill Price and Prema Kerollis, and they own and farm estate vineyards in Sonoma County. The wines are precise, thrilling, age-worthy, and should be on your radar if you like nuanced Sonoma Pinot.

I also have a few voluptuous but balanced Chardonnays from Juggernaut and Crossbarn that would really hit the spot during this late Summer timeframe.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Gap's Pinnacle Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $95
Dark ruby color. The nose opens to show a well-arranged display of red plums, black cherries, raspberry, strawberry, with these deeper tones of violets, charcoal, toffee, some earth and coffee grounds tones. The palate combines grippy but fine-grained tannins, zesty acidity, with a core of fresh but vibrant raspberries, black cherries, and plums. All sorts of nuances here, with graphite, dusty earth, black tea, tobacco, sage. So much going on here, and I’d love to bury a few of these for five to eight years plus. A beautiful interpretation of this grape and site. (95 points)

2021 Three Sticks Pinot Noir One Sky Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $85
Deep ruby color. Wow, what a beautiful nose, with pretty strawberry, raspberries, with spice, herbal, and earthy tones (tobacco, dried rose petals, tilled earth, clay, white pepper). Air coaxes out all sorts of exciting nuanced. Juicy and suave on the palate with dusty tannins and lively acidity that keeps it fresh. Flavors of red plums and currants, tangy strawberries and raspberries, and the fruit is backed up with all sorts of earth, paprika, rhubarb, clay, and white pepper. Nuanced, pretty, spicy, complex, elegant, with a long life ahead of it. (93 points)

2023 Cormorant Cellars Vermentino - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado County

SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. A pleasantly salty aroma, with lemon, quince, ruby red grapefruit, backed up with scents of basil, limestone dust, and chalk. On the palate this shows delicious yellow pears, lemon zest, pineapple, and green apple sliced, mixed with ocean spray, minerals, shells, white flowers. Crisp and punchy, juicy but balanced, this is an awesome value and a fascinating iteration of this grape. (91 points)

2023 Cormorant Cellars Gamay Noir Zabala Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $27
Pale ruby color. Aromas of tart cranberries, juicy strawberries, raspberries, tossed with cool tones of rose petals, tobacco, sage, yet stays airy and bright. The palate shows crisp, lip-smacking acidity with a juicy frame and pleasantly dusty tannins. Loving the fruit – cranberry relish, raspberries, strawberry-rhubarb pie. There are a lot of interesting non-fruit elements to enjoy here as well: clay, dried violets, black pepper, tobacco, clove. So fun and fresh but complex and savory as well and even has a Morgon-esque mineral and graphite element on the finish. (92 points)

2021 CrossBarn (Paul Hobbs) Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Bright and inviting on the nose with chalky, flinty notes, nettle, white and yellow flowers, over top of quince, yellow apples, and some almond and shaved ginger. Smooth and plush on the palate with lively acidity and a balanced frame. Lemons, yellow pears, green apples, the fruit is topped in minerals, seashells, chalk dust, with almond skin, cinnamon, and honeycomb. Juicy but fresh, with a tangy, complex finish. (90 points)

2022 Juggernaut Wine Company Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $20
Bright yellow color. The aromas pop with white peach, kiwi, bruised yellow apple, mixed with honeyed white tea, peanut brittle, with saline and some shells. Racy and tangy on the palate, a surprising oceanic briskness, matched with depth of texture. White peaches, lemon curd, yellow apples, the fruit blends well with tones of ocean spray, limestone, honeyed tea, and some basil, flinty tones. This has a lot of complexity and vibrancy for a wine at this price point. (90 points)

Oregon's Troon Continues to Impress

I’ve had the pleasure of following Oregon’s Troon Vineyard since 2017, when I first tasted their wines. Since then, the hits just keep coming.

Troon is a biodynamic producer from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, an area in the south of the state that boast diverse geology, warm days, cool nights, and some exciting wineries. Troon, in my opinion, of course, has been consistently slinging out focused, unique wines from a large mix of grape varieties. Over the years, they’ve experimented with different styles, blends, adding things like Pet-Nat and Piquette to the mix, but also focusing on deep, juicy reds made from grapes like Tannat.

I recently tasted four of their releases from 2020, and I’m excited to share them. These wines sport new labels this year, tastefully designed and incorporating images of their biodynamic preparations. (I only point this out because, well, like record album artwork, I think labels matter — and this aesthetic is really working.)

Their Kubli Bench line is composed of really interesting blends, two of which are featured in this week’s report. There’s a delicious Vermentino (definitely a specialty of the winery) and a new, Beaujolais-inspired Grenache that is perfect for warmer weather.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Such a fresh, inviting, floral, airy wine, like a spring field of all sorts of flowers, with white tea over top of generous peach and zesty lime. Punchy texture, vibrant acidity, this is a zesty and focused wine with yellow plums, white peach and cantaloupe fruit, drizzled with lime. The honey, clean laundry and floral perfume tones add complexity. Texturally, the depth of this wine is fantastic, too. Fermented in old French oak, aged on the lees for five months. (91 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale, pale pink color. So fresh and bright on the nose, like a spring field of buttercups, dandelion and clover over top of McIntosh apple, white cherry and peach skin, with some chalk and basil tones, too. Gorgeous texture on the palate, has nice richness but is really zesty and focused at the same time. Peaches, white cherries and honeydew melon fruit blend with perfume, chalky, crusty sea salt tones. Notes of clover, honey, minerals and shells add all sorts of complexity. Exciting, deep but also gluggable as can be. Really well done blend of Primitivo and Tinta Roriz. Fermented in old French oak, 11.7% alcohol. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Gorgeous honey, light orange color. Bright aromas that just pop: limes, lemon and kumquat, followed up by clover, candied lemon, sea salt, this is just a spritzy, fun-smelling wine. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, and the texture is really fascinating, waxy but never heavy, and the balance is lovely. Chunks of lemon, pineapple and green melon fruit bounce off these flinty, mineral, chalky elements, and there’s some white tea and hints of tobacco as well. Just a lot to unpack. Don’t worry, this is not a feral orange wine, but a pretty, focused and fresh blend of Riesling, Vermentino and Viognier that spends three weeks on the skins. Well, done, Troon! (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Juicy and inviting on the nose with strawberries and fresh plums, roses, red licorice – just a ton of fun to sniff. Zesty acidity and light tannins frame the wine nicely, and the raspberry and strawberry fruit is bright and delicious. Notes of rose petals, wildflowers, and mild spicy tones add some complexity, too. Stainless steel, carbonic maceration, this is crushable but complex, easy-drinking but sporting impressive depth as well. This is Troon’s first take on this wine, and I look forward to what they’re going to do with it in the future. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

New Releases from California and Oregon

Happy belated new year. I’m back this week with a round-up of new releases from California and Oregon for my first reviews of 2021. And I’m starting off with some good stuff.

Merry Edwards, whose wines I fell in love with on one of my first California wine trips, comes out swinging with four rocking single-vineyard Pinots from the 2018 vintage.

Paso Robles’ Rabble Wine Company puts out several brands. Aesthetic and marketing matters, and they seem to do a great job of it, while maintaining quality in the bottle that could make you a return customer.

Long-time readers will have seen Troon’s wines on here before, and I have a lot of respect for this producer and their wines. Always experimenting with different styles, grapes, this biodynamic winery puts out nerdy but pristine and highly delicious wines in so many styles it seems there’s something for everyone in their portfolio.

Some other new releases round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Talbott Chardonnay Block 50 South Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ­- USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. The aromas are deep and suave, with bruised pears, yellow apples, with complex floral tones, cinnamon crumb cake, honeycomb. Plump texture on the palate but moderate acidity keeps it vibrant throughout. Juicy flavors of yellow pears and apples, with apricot jam, mix with complex floral tones (honeysuckle, orange blossom). Notes of honey, graham cracker and brown sugar contrast against a chalky element. Rich but vibrant and fresh, too, this should age nicely. (90 points)

2018 Rabble Wine Company “Stasis” Grüner Veltliner - USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $41
Medium yellow color. Inviting aromas of yellow apples, limes, along with this pretty combination of floral and spicy elements (honeysuckle fresh ramps) with honey and chalky elements as well. Precise acidity frames the wine nicely on a zesty, focused frame with delicious yellow apple, kiwi and lemon fruit. A crunchy, salty, floral appeal, with honeysuckle, ginger, cucumber slices and celery seed tones. A lot going on, bright and complex, but it’s also so fun and crushable, too. (90 points)

2018 Grieve Family Winery Double Eagle White Wine - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Medium yellow color. Rich aromas of honeydew, pineapple and yellow apple with honeyed, floral tones but also these vibrant tones of hay, chalk and mint. Plush texture on the palate, vibrant acid, with flavors of white peach, pineapple and lemon tart fruit. Notes of chalk, minerals, tomato leaf and sea salt add complexity. Nuanced, plump but fresh, this Sauvignon Blanc has lovely clarity and focus to it. (90 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Aromas of lemon, orange, yellow plum, a rushing display with notes of sea salt, white tea, honey, all sorts of flowers. A juicy, creamy mouthfeel but, considering the blend, the acidity is really surprising, offer pleasant moderation for the yellow plum, orange marmalade fruit, lime notes, too. Honey, marzipan and floral tones add complexity. Lovely stuff to serve with savory dishes on a cold night. Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne fermented with native yeasts in Old French oak. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
An orange, light gold color. The nose is bright, with orange peel, lemon, has a natural but focused appeal with wildflowers, crushed sweet tarts, quinine and talc. On the palate, this shows chunks of pineapple, orange peel and preserved lemon, plump but shows some medium-low acidity as well. Complex notes of crushed shells, floral perfume and subtle notes of mint, tobacco and earth. Really enjoyable and unique. Fermented in amphorae, two with whole grapes, one with whole cluster. (90 points)

Red wines

2017 Rabble Wine Company Tooth & Nail Wines “The Stand” - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Deep, roasted figs, blackberries and black currant compote, with cedar, coffee, tar and sweet cocoa. Juicy and full on the palate with velvety tannins, surprisingly fresh acidity. Jammy blackberries, blueberries, roasted figs, laced with cocoa, coffee, graphite, scorched earth, pepper and tar, yet this forward, winter-hearty wine shows vibrancy throughout. 85% Petite Sirah, 14% Syrah, 1% Viognier, aged 15 months in 34% new French oak. (89 points)

2018 Rabble Wine Company Rabble Red - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Jammy aromas of cherries and plums, smoky figs, with vanilla and chocolate covered raisins. Ripe and juicy on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of blackberry and smoky figs mix with vanilla, chocolate and coffee tones. Chewy and forward but shows some vibrancy, and has a fan-friendly, disappear at a party vibe to it. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Petite Sirah. (86 points)

2016 Rabble Wine Company “Amor Fati” Syrah Murmur Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Ooh! The nose oozes olives (green, black, some pimentos and garlic cloves thrown in, and I love it) backed up by these tones of beef jerk over top of tangy, juicy cherries and red plums. Full-bodied but fresh with this zippy acidity and some solid but slightly dusty tannins. Vibrant but chewy fruit, cherries and blackberries, along with lots of tobacco, black pepper, leather, lots green olives. Undertones of rocky earth and mineral round out this lovely, complex Syrah that will reward age. Spends 18 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $16
Medium ruby color. Aromas of raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, cola, suave but shows some spicy, herbal tones as well. Juicy, smooth but fresh on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Raspberry and cherry fruit mix with light roast coffee, nice tones of rose petals and save, nuanced toffee and cola. Fun, fresh, style, ripe but shows a lot of nuance and balance for the price. (87 points)

2016 Grieve Family Vineyard Double Eagle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $88
Deep purple color. Aromas of juicy blackberries, blueberries, with tar, anise, roasted coffee and cedar, classic, deep, inviting Napa goodness. Full and suave on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity, finely balanced. Ripe blackberry and smoky blueberry with plummy, sauce tones, backed up by complex graphite, mineral, charcoal and tobacco. Boastful but nuanced and fresh, too. Delicious, exciting stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Petit Verdot. (92 points)

2017 Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Aromas of smoky earth and mint chocolate chip over top spicy black currants, sweet plums, with pepper and black tea. Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins, medium acidity. Juicy and ripe with plush black cherry and plum fruit. Notes of cocoa, toasted coconut and coffee grounds are woven in well. A forward, yummy style, but it has some solid complexity and depth as well. (89 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard ­- USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas pop with raspberry and blueberry jams with spicy mint, menthol and clove, backed up by milk chocolate and rhubarb. Full but fresh with a slightly chewy texture and waves of plums, raspberry and blueberry fruit. Cola, rose petals, nuanced notes of toffee and roasted chestnut, complex floral and earth tones as well. Bold but beautiful, smooth and vibrant, and should be stellar in three to six years. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Warrens' Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $66
Cherries galore on the nose, vibrant and floral as well, with roses, violets, tobacco and sarsaparilla. Full-bodied, lively acidity, full of juicy cherries and red plums on a frame of dusty tannins. Complex notes of oregano, roses, coffee, clay and earth, with herbal and minty tones. Vibrant finish, harmonious and complex, the freshest, spiciest iteration in this mix, and it’s lovely. (93 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas of juicy cherries and plums meet notes of violets, cola and sweet oregano. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, a chewy texture with a concentrated feel, but stays vibrant with acidity as well. Deep cherry and roasted figs, wild blueberries, suave fruit mixes well with cola, sage and tobacco. Pretty underlying mineral and earth tones This could use some time, but it’s vibrant and exciting. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Meredith Estate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
The nose boasts sweet plums and deep black cherries, with rich tones of cola, cocoa and coffee. Full and chewy with moderate acidity and a deep core of black cherry and tart plum fruit. Saucy with notes of coffee, toffee, sarsaparilla, roasted chestnut and potting soil. Needs air and time to coax out the nuances, but it’s lovely and good for fans of the deeper style. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Medium purple color. Aromas of suave black cherries, blackberries, with pepper, cocoa, mesquite, graphite and tilled soil. Full and fresh, nice tannic structure but velvety feel and vibrant acidity. Black cherries and blueberry compote mixes with all sorts of spicy tones (olives, pickling spices, mesquite, charcoal) with violet and cocoa tones. Integrated, lively, spicy, serious stuff for the price. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah Whole Cluster Fermented ­- USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Medium purple color. So enticing on the nose, deep but vibrant with red and black cherries and currants, figs, and notes of pine, pepper, menthol and charcoal grill. Full-bodied and suave on the palate with bright acidity and a grippy but gorgeous, deep texture. Pretty blueberries and blackberry fruit mix well with complex notes of bacon fat, beef jerky, black olive, scorched earth. A silky, mineral-laden finish. This should age wonderfully over the next decade. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Autumnal Selections

Where I live, in the U.S. Mid-Atlantic, it’s finally starting to feel like autumn, my favorite season. After a hot, humid summer, I’m excited for autumnal weather, food, and wines. 

The fall samples have been rolling in these past few weeks, and I’ve curated a selection of wines that would pair well with warm harvest meals, cool nights, and all that watching leaves change kinda stuff. 

There’s a nice Mosel Riesling in this report, which I always enjoy around this time of year. Oregon offers up two delicious wines: a Vermentino from biodynamic Applegate Valley producer Troon, who seems to continually ace this variety; and a Brut Rosé from Gran Moraine, whose Pinots and Chardonnays I’ve enjoyed many times.

 Chianti Ruffina’s Fattoria Selvapiana (which has been in the same family’s hands since the 1880s) delivers some serious value Sangiovese in this report. These wines show wide appeal, and I could see them fitting well on any big family table. And a zesty, savory Schiava from the Dolomites deserves attention for its food- and budget-friendly vibes.

Lastly, Gonzalez Byass, the large Sherry house, comes through with a few wines that should warm you up as winter approaches. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

Germany

2018 Weingut Nik Weis/St. Urbans-Hof Bockstein Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $26
Rich gold color. Big and tropical on the nose with apricot, white peach and lime, topped in fresh white and yellow flowers, mint, new tennis balls, and crushed rock notes. Medium-bodied, moderate sweetness balances off tingling acidity for a well-balanced Riesling. Peaches and papaya, drizzled in lime, topped in yellow flowers and honeycomb. There’s a lively streak of mountain stream and mineral that underlines the wine. Delicious, quite complex, this should age nicely over the next five years. (88 points) 

Italy

2018 Alois Lageder Vernatsch-Schiava - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti
SRP: $16
Pale ruby color. Bright, spicy and floral nose, showing rose petals, tobacco, rhubarb and paprika on top of red cherries and pomegranate. Crisp and bright and light on the palate, but not lacking in flavor or complexity at all. Dusty tannins back up tangy cherry and pomegranate fruit, and I get complex notes of spiced cranberry sauce, rose petals, rhubarb, with earthy, soy notes. Underling mineral and chalk elements. If you’re in the mood for something lighter, floral and spicy from Alto Adige and don’t like spending money, this is a serious contender. 11% alcohol, aged six months in concrete. Made from the Schiava (or Vernatsch) grape. (89 points) 

2016 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. Spicy nose, with lots of tobacco, eucalyptus, mint, pepper and leather on top of tangy currants, dark plums, with some cocoa, too. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Crunch red cherries and plums mix with flavors of smoky tobacco, grilled herbs, violets and scorched earth. This is fresh, lively and accessible but also quite complex, and offers a lot in this price range. Drink in the near term. 95% Sangiovese with a combined 5% Canaiolo, colorino and Malvasia Nera. (88 points) 

2014 Fattoria Selvapiana Pomino Villa Petrognano - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino
SRP: $21
Deep ruby color. Juicy aromas of red cherries and currants mix with violets, graphite, wild herbs, tomato leaf and tobacco. Nice grip, this is full-bodied but not too heavy, and shows surprisingly vibrant acidity. Lots of smoky, charcoal, graphite and mineral tones underline the beautiful red and black fruit. Violets, clove, earth, wild herbs and cocoa powder and cedar, this has a lot going on. Needs a few years of cellar time or good decant if you’re drinking it soon, but this has a lot to show for its price point. 60% Sangiovese with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, aged 29 months in French oak. (90 points) 

2015 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina
SRP: $36
Medium ruby color. Nose shows vibrant cherries and raspberries, along with rose petals, mint, spicy oregano and paprika elements. Full-bodied, solid tannic grip, but moderating acidity. Currants and black cherries (the fruit is rich and round but shows nuance). I get black olive, clove, mint, tobacco and charcoal accents, along with some coffee and wood notes woven in well. Lovely, concentrated yet vibrant, this needs at least a few years in the cellar. 100% Sangiovese aged 32 months in French oak. (90 points) 

Spain

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Tio Pepe Fino 'En Rama' 2019 - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $20
Lemon peel color. Classic aromas of sea salt, green olive, ocean spray, on top of lemon peel, apricot, shaved ginger, hay and honeycomb. The palate is full but so crisp and zesty, with deep texture and vibrant acidity. Lemon and orange peel mix with complex nuances of sea salt, oyster brine, crushed shells and chalk, ginger, green olive, spiced tea. Lovely depth and complexity, this begs for all sorts of delicious foods but I was craving grilled oysters specifically while tasting this. Great value. (90 points) 

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Amontillado Viña AB - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $25
Deep gold color. Aromas of sea salt, almond, hay and ginger, on top of candied orange peel, apricot marmalade, lemon zesty. Crisp acidity, round, deep texture, waxy yet lively feel. The wine integrated and balanced very well. Orange peel, apricot, mixed with ginger, almond, hay, candlewax, white tea. Lush, harmonious, a solid Amontillado that offers a lot for the price. 16.5% alcohol, <4 grams of residual sugar, aged 12 years in oak casks. (90 points)

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Pedro Ximénez Sherry Noé 30 Years - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $50/375ml
Deep brown color. Nose of sweet dates, roasted figs, caramel, lush and rich with cocoa, violets, clove and marmalade notes. Full-bodied, plush, sweet and unctuous with medium acidity. Plum cake, roasted figs, sweet dates, glazed, goopy fruit, mixed with flavors of bitter chocolate, clove, cedar and roasted chestnuts. Rich, deep, delicious stuff, the acidity really helps keep this densely sweet wine vibrant. 100% Pedro Ximenez, aged 30 years in solera. (91 points) 

United States

2018 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromatically, this is pretty as all heck, with lots of white and yellow flowers, white tea, sea salt, raw almond, on top of lemon and apricot. Wide breadth of texture, so pretty, with a waxy, creamy, yet zippy feel. Pure and deep but vibrant with crisp acidity, and delicious lemon, apricot and peach fruit. Notes of mint, herbal tea, crushed chalk, white flowers, minerals and quinine add all sorts of complexity. Troon has been killing it with Vermentino for a while now, and this is another example of their mastery of the grape. Not to mention the crazy value here. Fermented and aged in old French oak, with maloactic fermentation. (92 points)

N.V. Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Brut Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $55
Pale copper color. Complex but airy on the nose, with white cherry, strawberry, grapefruit, topped in wildflowers, hay, honey, with salty, oyster shell notes. Nervy and crisp on the palate with fine bubbles – dry, brisk, salty, bright appeal. Strawberry, white cherry and red apple peel, mixed with chalk, saline but plenty of doughy, honey, almond notes, too. Delicious, complex, bright stuff. Chardonnay with 43% Pinot Noir, fermented in a mix of old French oak and stainless steel, aged 24 months on the lees. (92 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Exceptional New Releases from Oregon's Troon Vineyard

I’ve been tasting the wines of Oregon’s Troon Vineyard for a few years now, and their new releases continue this winery’s tradition of excellence.

All Troon wines come from estate grapes in the cool Applegate Valley appellation of South Oregon. The winery sits at 1,400 feet above sea level, on a high bench above the Applegate River. Surrounded by the Siskiyou Mountains, the Applegate and Rogue rivers allow cooling Pacific breezes to flow into the valley in the afternoons, which helps keep the diurnal temperature shifts high.

The Troon team has been making a lot of effort in the vineyard of late, as the 2018 grapes were farmed organically and biodynamically. They expect their first Demeter certification with the next vintage. The wines are generally picked with brix measurements between 21 and 24, and the acidity really shines through in all of these wines. In the winery, all the wine are crushed by foot, fermentation is done with native yeasts, there’s no correcting for acids or sugars, and the wines don’t see any new oak.

Their range of releases is wide, from Skin-fermented Riesling, to Rhone whites, to Cabernet, Zinfandel, Syrah and Vermentino. In this new batch of Troon wines, I found, yet again, excellent wines at exceptional prices.

2017 Troon Vineyard Roussanne - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $30
Medium yellow color. Apricot and white peach aromas, with lots of floral perfume, baby’s breath and lilies. Light-bodied, only 11% alcohol, which is kind of crazy for a Roussanne but this totally works. Texture is rich and waxy and dusty but acidity is there and keeps it fresh. Apricot and lime peel mix with yellow flowers, raw almond, and some flinty, stony notes. Complex, texturally fascinating, a very unique Roussanne. Barrel fermented, aged for 6 months in mature oak. (90 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Blanc - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $30
Rich yellow color. Wow, aromatics pop with apricot, pineapple, orange marmalade, and complex elements of lamp oil, raw almond and herbal extract kind of thing – unique and interesting. 11.8% alcohol but texturally deep, creamy, chalky, with moderating acidity. The flavors are delicious (apricot and orange marmalade, mango, notes of salted almond and sweet white flowers), but the mouthfeel is just so lovely, and the most fascinating aspect of the wine. Really cool stuff. 52% marsanne 48% viognier barrel co-fermented, aged for 6 months in mature oak. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $18
Light yellow color. Pretty aromatics of salted lemon and lime, orange peel, along with floral, spice, herbal complexity. Lovely texture and balance with fresh, crisp acidity and a smooth and vibrant mouthfeel. Apricot, lemon, pineapple and orange, along with sea salt, crushed shells, honeyed white tea. A brighter, leaner version of the Whole Grape Ferment, but still plenty of depth and texture here. Insane value for the price. Barrel fermented, aged six months in mature oak, 12% alcohol. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Whole Grape Ferment - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $25
Medium yellow color. Fascinating aromas of apricot, orange and lemon pith, sea salt, white tea, hay, freshly cut flowers. On the palate, this is pristine and crisp, but crunchy and full of textural depth as well, with lovely balance. Apricot, lemon pith, along with complex elements of saline, crushed shells, white tea, bamboo and white pepper, seriously cool stuff going on here. Texture and mouthfeel on this wine is glorious. Barrel fermented and aged six months in mature oak, 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Malbec Cuvée Cot - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $35
Light purple color. Aromas of warm plum and blackberry compote, tart wild blueberries, and a cool mix of lavender, violets, black tea and warm clay. So vibrant and tangy on the palate, but structured tannins provide some grip. The black cherry, plums and blueberry fruit is tart and tangy, and laced with a complex mix of incense sticks, lavender, violets, loamy soil, black tea and tar. This is delicious now, but has the acidity, structure and fruit to age quite a while. 18 months in mature oak, 13.4% alcohol. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Zinfandel Kubli Bench - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $20
Vibrant purple color. The aromas really pop with aromas of red cherries, strawberries, pomegranate, with notes of roses, pepper, lavender, some cola, I love this fresh, bright appeal. Suave and medium/full-bodied with crisp acidity and fleshy, velvety tannins. Crisp red and black cherries, pomegranate, strawberries, lots of fruit but an airy, more restrained feel. Complex elements of spicy tobacco, pepper, leather and a whole lot of red flowers. So pretty, so delicious. Zinfandel co-fermented with 3% Petite Sirah, aged 12 months in mature oak, 13.6% alcohol. Applegate Valley Zin, who knew? Not me, but this is eye-opening stuff. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Incredible Wine & Value from Lodi: Fields Family Wines

This week I have to rant a bit about some really impressive wines from Fields Family Wines. This Lodi estate and winery was purchased by Russ Fields in 2005, and Ryan Sherman makes the wines.

This producer represents everything I love about Lodi wines — lots of old vines, a wide range of grape varieties, vibrant flavor profiles. But these wines are also leaner, fresher and more minimalist in style than some of the burlier wines one can find from Lodi.

I’ve long been a fan of the Syrahs and Tempranillo from this producer, although I’ve never tasted an unexciting wine, and I’m excited to see what Ryan continues to do with Grenache Blanc and Vermentino. On top of the quality, this wines are a ripping deal considering the price tags.

They were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Fields Family Wines Grenache Blanc DeLu Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $24
Interesting pale copper color. Aromas of chalk dust, sea shells, limestone on top of peaches and apricots and orange blossom. Zesty acidity on the palate of this medium-bodied wine, it’s full of juicy fruit (apricot, green apple, lemon curd) but complex with elements of chalk dust, honeysuckle, sea shells, floral perfume. Mineral-driven, oceanic, crisp, lively, delicious stuff. More California Grenache Blanc, please! (91 points) 

2016 Fields Family Wines Vermentino DeLu Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Love the nose of peaches and citrus peel, along with complex floral notes and sea salt. Crisp and lively wine on a medium-bodied frame with lots of lemon zest, peach nectar, apricot, along with chalky, sea shell and sea breeze notes and a whole lot of baby’s breath and cut flowers. Tingling minerality on the finish. Delicious, complex stuff. Insane value here. (92 points)  

2014 Fields Family Wines Tempranillo Lot 13 Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $28
Light purple color. Aromatic waves of red and black cherries and currants, complex roses and violets, spicy potpourri, anise, clay pots, tobacco and coffee grounds. Full-bodied, solid grip to the tannins, moderating acidity keeps it balanced. Plush but tangy with red and black cherries, plums and smoky figs, along with cocoa, anise, charcoal dust, tobacco pipe, grilled herbs, violets. Wow, the balance is pristine, the depth is obvious, the deliciousness is undeniable and I’d love to hold this for 3-5 years. (92 points)  

2014 Fields Family Wines Syrah Estate - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Mokelumne River
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Smells of spiced coffee, tobacco, black pepper, cinnamon, on top of tart black cherries, raspberries and tangy plums. Medium+ tannins, fresh acidity, nice balance and vibrancy but structure for the cellar. Tart plums and raspberries mix with cola, cocoa powder, spiced black tea, chicory coffee, cedar, fallen leaves and pepper. Lovely balance and freshness but this is also serious and will improve in the cellar. Stellar for the price. All Syrah aged in less than 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 Fields Family Wines Syrah Whole Cluster - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $25
Lively ruby color. Aromas of bright red cherries, wild blueberries, roses, black pepper, lavender, incense sticks. Wow, complex elements of earth and smashed rocks – fascinating to sniff. Medium-bodied with lip-smacking acidity, fresh but shows medium/dusty tannins. Plump but tart fruit (red and black cherries and tangy plums). Notes of coffee, black pepper, clove, bay leaf, loamy soil. Bright and juicy but complex, yet so easy to drink. 100% whole cluster, semi-carbonic fermentation in old barrels, 12.8% alcohol. Seek this out if you’re looking for a more Old World style Syrah from Lodi. Wow. (93 points) 

2014 Fields Family Wines Zinfandel Stampede Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Clements Hills
SRP: $28
Gorgeous ruby color. Vibrant aromas of red cherries, currants, strawberry, with lots of spicy oregano, rhubarb, pipe tobacco, violets and pepper. On the palate this shows solid but suave tannins, moderating acidity, and a lip-smacking appeal. Packed with cherries and currants, the fruit is tart but deep, and laced with notes of rich clay and loamy earth, violets, coffee, black olive, clove and spiced coffee. Silky, clean and crisp but packed with complex flavors and aging potential. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Killer New Releases from Oregon's Troon Vineyard

Troon Vineyard does it again with these new releases — wow! This winery is based in the Southern Oregon appellation of Applegate Valley, and they produce a range of exciting varietal and blended wines. (I reviewed some different wines from Troon earlier this year.) From a stellar Riesling orange wine, to exciting Vermentinos, Rhone blends, Tannat, etc., the wines show panache, brightness, depth, aging potential. 

I honestly haven’t tasted an unexceptional wine from this producer. And the quality-to-price ratio for some of these wines is bonkers good. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

Troon's Vermentino vineyards in Applegate Valley produce some exceptional, crisp white wines.

2016 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Bursts with aromas of dandelion and honeysuckle, along with lively lychee, apricot, juicy nectarine – very pretty aromatic display. Dry and brisk but pleasantly juicy, waxy texture, and the balance is gorgeous. Lots of apricot, guava and lime pith, but a unique mix of chalk dust, green tea, raw almond. A lingering sense of mineral and talc. Wow, this is serious stuff and an insane bargain. (91 points) 

2015 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Cuvée Rolle - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $22
Pale lemon color. Floral, perfumed nose with cut lilies, dandelion, chalk dust, lemon pepper, along with nectary and pithy limes. Plush texture on the palate but so much saline, chalky, zesty intensity as well, and the balance is very nice. Nectarine and lemon play off of chalk dust, cut flowers, almond shell, lemon pepper and oregano. Deep, precise, exquisite example of this grape variety. (92 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Blanc Kubli Bench - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light gold color. On the nose, a mix of banana, pineapple and yellow apple with tangy lime, chalk dusty, lamp oil and floral tea. Textural richness rocks but vibrant acidity keeps it fresh. Yellow apple, apricot, kumquat fruit mixed with salted almond, wet chalkboard, yellow flowers and honeycomb. Really pretty, delicious and complex, I’d love to cellar this for 4-5 years and see what happens but this is also good to go. 54% Viognier, 46% Marsanne, 12.5% alcohol. (91 points) 

2016 Troon Vineyard Grenache - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
SRP: $25
Shining ruby color. Aromas of crushed raspberries and strawberries, along with roses, rhubarb and black pepper, some candied red apple peel. Big on the palate but surprising balance with smooth tannins, medium acidity and a warm, inviting mouthfeel. Jammy red and chilled black cherries mix with cocoa, tobacco, pepper and sweet roses, and the clove and roasted chestnut elements are woven in well. Love it. (90 points) 

2015 Troon Vineyard GSM - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby. Aromas of juicy black cherries, red plums, fresh and lively but also really floral and spicy with elements of herbs, coffee, violets and cedar. Medium-bodied with great balance between structured but smooth tannins, medium-acidity, and waves of tangy black and red plums. Laced with graphite, pepper, mushroom, fallen leaves and clay pot notes. Lovely now but lots to show over the next 4-7 years. Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Sangiovese. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.