Digging into Some Complex Cognacs

Honestly, spirits aren’t really my wheelhouse. I’m a simple, wine-loving dude who rarely consumes spirits or cocktails. But, if I’m going to put some 40% ABV liquid into my gut, it’s likely going to be an Islay Scotch or a good Cognac. So, I’m taking a break from wine this week to focus on this historic spirit.

Cognac seems well-known to wine-loving crowds. North of Bordeaux, in the chalky soils near the Charente River, thousands of growers farm Ugni Blanc grapes to make Cocnac. Spreading out from the village of Cognac, there are six different crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. “Fine Champagne” refers to a blend composed of at least 50% Grande Champagne, with some Petite Champagne.

Most Cognac is made from the Ugni Blanc grape (known as Trebbiano in Italy), but Folle Blanche (which dominated the pre-phylloxera period) and Colombard are also found. The grapes are usually harvested in September, and then they undergo some fermentation, resulting in a high-acid white wine with about 9% alcohol. Then, Cognac producers begin a double distillation process in unique Charentais copper pot stills.

This spirit (eau de vie) is then aged for at least two years before it can be called Cognac. Aging is always done in oak casks, and many producers have their own cooperage system. The period of aging is indicated by a series of letters on the label. V.S. indicates with the youngest spirit in the is at least two years old. V.S.O.P. requires at least four years of aging. And, as of 2018, X.O. now means the youngest spirit in the bend is at least 10 years old.

Over the summer, I dove into some different Cognacs for review, and my notes are below.

These spirits were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

N.V. Frapin Cognac Grande Champagne V.S. — France, Cognac, Grande Champagne Cognac
SRP: $55
This has an airy, floral quality, with pear and orange blossom, some orange peel, but also caramel, honeyed tea and ginger snaps. Vibrant on the palate, smooth texture, a mix of baked pears and apples with cinnamon, floral potpourri, with honeycomb and spiced tea. Fresh, lighter style, but solid complexity for a VS. This estate has existed since 1270, and sources grapes from more than 1,200 acres of vineyards in Grande Champagne. (90 points)

N.V. Bache-Gabrielsen Cognac 3 Kors V.S. — France, Cognac
SRP: $32
A lively nose of apricot, yellow raisin, honey and white flowers. Smooth and fresh with apricots and apples, in has a lively, floral quality to it, blossoms, pineapple, dried ginger, and warm, honeyed tea. Smooth, fruity, floral and fresh. This estate was founded by a Norwegian Lieutenant in 1905, and the spirit is sourced from grapes in Fins Bois, Petite Champagne and Grande Champagne. (88 points)

N.V. Merlet Cognac V.S.O.P. — France, Cognac
SRP: $50
Nose is warm and inviting with quince paste, orange peel, honey, clover, ginger and graham notes. Plush texture, vibrant, with layers of fruit and nut flavors (candied orange peel, fig paste, dried apricot), and clove, honey and sweet caramel add complexity. Nicely balanced, no harsh edges at all, lots of warm, inviting but spicy elements. From vineyards in the crus of Borderies and Fins Bois. (90 points)

N.V. A.E. Dor Cognac Rare Fine Champagne V.S.O.P. — France, Cognac, Fine Champagne Cognac
SRP: $60
Aromas of warm caramel, yellow raisins, candied orange peel, with ginger, graham cracker and subtle smoky traces. Smooth and velvety on the palate, well-rounded and balanced. Flavors of yellow raisins, plum cake and candied orange peel mix well with vanilla, clove, coffee and smoky elements. Complex, elegant, smooth, lovely stuff. Sourced from Grande Champagne and Petit Champagne. (92 points)

N.V. Prunier Grande Fine Champagne Cognac Family Reserve X.O. — France, Cognac, Grande Fine Champagne Cognac
SRP: $70
Inviting nose of honey, sweet marmalade, along with ginger, clove and sweet coconut. Lush palate with a smooth texture, and flavors of sweet apricot, yellow plums, orange marmalade, honeycomb, along with waxy, clove and caramel tones. The mouthfeel is lovely and the balance is pristine. A blend of 15- to 35-year-old Cognacs from Grande Champagne. (92 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Sipping Some Exquisite Cognacs from Camus

I’m focusing on something a little different this week: Cognac.

I received some samples from the Camus Wine & Spirits Group, a range of different Cognacs. This house dates back more than 150 years, and is the largest family-owned Cognac House. They also hold about 450 acres in the renowned Borderies cru, the smallest of the Cognac appellations, and they produce their Borderies eaux-de-vie from all estate-grown grapes.

I don’t have a lot of experience in reviewing spirits, I’ll admit, but I have tasted a lot of Cognac in my days, enough to at least give this a shot.

These Cognacs were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

N.V. Camus Cognac Ile de Ré Cliffside Cellar - France, Cognac
Smells of apricots, sweet pine, orange marmalade and caramel. Pretty and plush on the palate with orange marmalade, spicy vanilla, apricot, clove, honey, sea salt. A rich but balanced Cognac. Made from grapes grown on the Île de Ré, off the west coast of France in the Bois à Terroirs cru of the Charente-Maritime department. (90 points)

N.V. Camus Cognac Ile de Ré Double Matured - France, Cognac
Rich, deep aromatics of apricot jam, butterscotch, orange marmalade, spicy oak and pine notes. Plush and smooth on the palate, warm spices and cedar tossed with apricot, salted caramel, and honey. A spicy, oak, cedar-laden finish, a toasty wine but very pretty as well. Aged in the cellars of Île de Ré and then again in barrels in Cognac. (90 points)

N.V. Camus Elegance VSOP - France, Cognac
Lush flowers on the nose, apricots, figs, creamy oak, lots of enticing baking spice notes. Rich, gorgeous texture, loaded with apricot, fig, almond, honeyed tea, with a finish of spicy oak and clove notes. Long, honeyed, delicious. (90 points)

N.V. Camus Borderies Cognac VSOP - France, Cognac, Borderies Cognac
Aromas of almond, apricot, clove, raisin, lovely stuff. Round and rich on the palate with a warm, combination of baked apple, raisin, honey, roasted nuts and spicy oak. Lots of pretty floral, tea leaves, cinnamon notes. Quite complex, very smooth, totally delicious. (91 points) 

N.V. Camus Borderies Cognac XO - France, Cognac, Borderies Cognac
Lush, intense, inviting aromatics: caramel, butterscotch, apricot jam, spicy cedar. Bold and powerful but a real sense of warmth, with butterscotch, graham cracker, cedar, spiced apple tea, apricot jam. Notes of roasted cedar and chestnut wood with a warm, honeyed finish. Absolutely beautiful stuff. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Immersing Myself In Irish Whiskey

Originally licensed as Locke's in 1757, Ireland's
Kilbeggan Distillery keeps the spirit of history alive.

I recently spent two weeks in Ireland surfing sketchy reefs and exploring the unbelievably gorgeous coast of Counties Donegal, Sligo and others. This required a lot of driving on Ireland’s notoriously narrow-as-fuck roads. More than a few times, I was convinced that a double-decker bus or a dustbin lorry smashing into my car was going to be the last thing I saw.

So, when the driving was done and the panic attacks were beaten back, I got down to the business of tasting Irish whiskey.

Yes, Scotland is king, but if you’re a Scotch fan like me, you may find it refreshing to explore the different approach of Irish whiskey. There is no Islay brine in Ireland, and (spare one outlier) no smoky peat bombs that dominates many Scotch whisky. There is huge diversity in Irish whiskey, but, generally speaking, the best are smooth and silky with a range of pure floral, honey and malty flavors.

I didn’t taste nearly as much Irish whiskey as I would’ve liked, but I found some really fun stuff.

I also spent some time touring the Kilbeggan Distillery, Ireland’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery. For the whiskey lover, or any tourist interest in Irish history, I cannot recommend visiting this place enough. 

If you’re driving between Galway and Dublin, the Kilbeggan Distillery is right off the highway and, although clearly a tourist destination, it’s anything but a trap. The old distillery is filled with creaking original wood and massive open-top fermenters. The river still powers the 100-year-old mill, and old copper stills tower in the courtyard. You can even check out the oldest copper still in Ireland, which they still use.

Below are my notes on some of the Irish whiskeys I tasted on my trip.

Redbreast Mano a Lámh
This beautiful whiskey from Midleton Distillery is aged in first-fill oloroso Sherry casks. It's smooth and vibrant with lots of flowers, caramel, sweet oak and dried berry aromas and flavors. There's a lovely creaminess and elegance to this whiskey, and it goes down dangerously easy.

The Jameson Distillery in Dublin has a Disney-fied feel to it, but it's
worth a stop. This neighboring bar has a wide selection of Irish whiskey.

Jameson Crested Ten 
Smells of honeys and pears with spiced tea and smoke. A bit biting on the palate but smooth enough with flavors of honey, baked pear, almond and smoke. This seems more smooth and less harsh than the regular Jameson bottling.

Galway Bay 10-Year Single Malt
Super floral with apricots and nut aromas. Quite smooth with tropical fruits and mixed nuts. A sense of woodsy spice pervades this whiskey, and I love it.

Green Spot 12-Year
Moderately smooth with lots of apples and caramel. I get some oaky and vanilla elements. Quite good.

Connemara Peated Single Malt
Pitched as Ireland’s only peated single malt whiskey, this would fit right in with its Highland Scotch cousins. It’s so smoky on the nose, with these peat and charred earth and bog aromas. Lots of smoke and spicy peat and clove on the palate but there are still some floral and honey tones. Delicious stuff - worth seeking out if you’re a fan of peat.

Tyrconnel Single Malt
A bit sharp on the nose but some honey, yellow flowers and baked pear liven it up. Creamy and honeyed with peaches, nuts, mellow herbal tones. A bit simple but solid.

Kilbeggan
This entry-level whiskey shows sweet aromas of malt balls and brown sugar. A sweet, nutty, malty whiskey with notes of honey and flowers. Straightforward, simple stuff but very tasty.

Kilbeggan 8-Year
A little deeper than the entry-level whiskey, but still shows that sweet malty aroma. Moderately smooth with floral perfume, honey, malt and soft spice notes. A bit more depth and silkiness.

New to Me: Fortified Peruvian "Wine"

Being a wine-lover means immersing yourself in an endless process of discovery. That’s one of the reasons I spend so much damn time focused on wine, because it provides me a path to new experiences and information. 

I recently came across a bottle that reminded me why I keep exploring. It’s labeled “Aperitif Wine – Product of Peru.” This “Perfecto Amor” from distiller-producer BarSol Pisco is technically not wine, if you define wine as fermented grape juice. Still, it sure gave me a unique and informative experience. 

This wine-like beverage is a blend of fortified juice from the Quebranta, Italia and Torontel grape varieties. Each grape variety is crushed separately and — here’s where things get a bit different — instead of allowing the sweet grape juice to ferment, the producers add pisco, traditional Peruvian distilled spirit. This heightens the alcohol content to 17% while retaining all the natural sugars from the wine grapes.

Also interesting: each grape variety’s juice is fortified with pisco distilled from that same grape variety. All three sweet-fortified juices are then blended together to create something of a house-style dessert wine. 

Peruvian pisco distillers have crafted similar beverages for personal consumption for years, says BarSol Co-Founder Diego Loret de Mola, who aims to introduce this tasty beverage to a new generation of drinkers. 

I have my doubts about how well this wine-like beverage can sell. It seems to have a very small niche in a large market. But for the explorers out there, this would be an interesting addition to a tasting dinner or a by-the-glass program. Also, an adventurous cocktail mixer — definitely not my strong suit — could use this as an ingredient in some fun blended drinks. 

This wine was received as a trade sample and tasted sighted.

N.V. Barsol Pisco “Perfecto Amor” - Peru
SRP: $19
Amber colored. Smells nutty and herbal, with intense and strange (not in a bad way) elements for me, making the drink hard to analyze in a traditional context. So, to gush on the aromas: I’m smelling candied apples, smashed brown banana pulp, newly crushed white grape must, and then mix in some spiced pepper jelly and herbal tea elements. I’ve never smelled something comparable, so points for uniqueness for sure. Nutty palate, full bodied and sweet, the alcohol is deceptively masked by the richness of the grape must flavors. Sweet but in a fresh and rather balanced way. I pick up on dried pineapple, dried mango and some bruised apple fruit, also some notes of raw almonds, white tea and sweet red pepper jelly. (87 points)

Fun, horizon-broadening stuff. I’d love to taste some fermented Peruvian grape juice to get a better idea of what’s going on. Now to find some...

On the DC Distilling Trail

Ivy City is littered with scrappy warehouses, pot-holed streets and, well, ivy, which climbs up abandoned buildings and wire fences. But this industrial neighborhood off New York Avenue in Northeast DC is home to a thriving scene: urban distilling.

Michael Lowe explains how Green Hat is made.

New Columbia Distillers kicked off the DC spirit buzz a few years ago with their Green Hat gin. (“DC Distiller Brings Spirit Back to the Capital”). Owner and founder Michael Lowe got bored with retirement after a career as an attorney, so he decided to open a distillery, which is located at 1832 Fenwick Street NE. After an apprenticeship in Washington State, he is proud to be at the helm of this “grain to glass” distillery. “We wanted to control the whole process,” he said, everything from the source of the raw ingredients to the final botanical blend.

Green Hat gin starts off with soft red winter wheat from Virginia — 1,200 pounds per batch of gin. Lowe uses a custom copper pot still from German maker Carl to distill their spirit. So far Green Hat has bottled two spirits. The “Spring/Summer” gin, their staple, is flavored with a blend of 12 botanicals. It has a really spicy and floral aroma, and a pleasant citrus and pepper twist on the palate. The “Fall/Winter” blend is a more intensely herbal gin, with less grapefruit and citrus peel and more spice, stemming from the addition of caraway, dill and star anise.

The standard gin works well with the classic citrus-dominated cocktails, a tonic, a fizz or a Tom Collins. I’d be happy to sip some of the winter blend on the rocks or perhaps mix up a martini with some vermouth and a stuffed olive.

Paying homage to the mid-Atlantic’s long history of producing rye whiskey, Green Hat will put out a District-made rye in the next year or two. Right now it’s sleeping in American white oak barrels, and Lowe said the tasting panel is waiting until it’s ready to bottle. A Navy strength gin is also in the works.

Green Hat Gin is currently distributed in DC, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia, but Lowe hopes to expand beyond this central area. You can currently find Green Hat at lots of DC-area shops and restaurant bars. Tours and tastings are available on Saturdays from 1-4.

It's not ready yet, but I'm looking forward to trying Green Hat's next spirit, a whiskey made from Virginia rye.

When you visit, leave time for the second leg of the trip. Right around the corner, the folks at Ivy City’s second distillery, One-Eight, are also working on some white spirits. Apparently, the route to a DC distillery goes through the attorney’s office. One-Eight is also the product of an attorney-turned-distiller, Sandy Wood, who left law for spirits.

One-Eight derives its name from Article 1, Secion 8 of the U.S. Constitution, which establishes DC as America’s capital city. Located at 1135 Okie Street NE, One-Eight has a great spot in a large brick building with a spacious tasting room, a long bar and a series of dining tables.

When I showed up during their Saturday tour and tasting, they were pouring two spirits, their District Made Vodka and Rock Creek White Whiskey. (Their Ivy City Gin was unavailable when I visited in late January, but will be available for tasting and purchase in February 2015.)

I’m not much of a vodka fan, but the One-Eight vodka is quite tasty and much more distinctive than your average mass-produced import. Made from corn, rye and malted rye, it shows a peppery kick on the finish. The Rock Creek White Whiskey (which is white because it isn’t aged in barrels) is made from rye grown in the surrounding states. It shows a rich and creamy body with flavors of malt and white pepper.

One-Eight opened to the public on January 10, but they’re already doing an excellent job connecting with locals. Open for tastings and tours on Saturdays from 1-4, the place was packed with interested guests during my visit.

If you’re hungry after sipping on some spirits, you can grab some food from one of the food trucks parked outside. And One-Eight has a lot more in store, including the release of a single malt whiskey, a bourbon and a barrel-aged rye.

If I was a bartender, I’d want all of these DC spirits on my bar. I’d come up with some DC-themed cocktails and spread the word that cocktail drinkers can go local.

We’ve yet to see DC’s full potential as a hub of urban distilling. Two more distilleries are slated to open in Ivy City this year alone.

We may not have voting rights in Congress, but DC spirits are alive and well. And it’s only going to get better.

Celebrate St. Paddy's Day With Irish Whiskey

Happy St. Patrick's Day! I celebrated early with the DC Whiskey Walk.

It’s St. Paddy’s Day weekend! Did you think I’d be posting about wine? Well, not today.

Today, we’re talking whiskey, Irish style. I’ll confess: I’m a single malt Scotch guy. I like my Islay malts with tons of sea brine, peat and campfire smoke. I rarely drink Irish whiskeys, which generally take a smoother, more floral approach to this beatiful distilled spirit.

But on a recent sunny, 60-degree March day in DC, drinking Irish whiskey sounded awesome. The DC Whiskey Walk mixes together Dupont Circle’s best Irish bars and pubs, lots of people wearing green and a whole lot of — duh! — whiskey.

I tasted through a few whiskeys with some friends and, obviously, had a great time. I’ve listed the whiskeys I tasted in order of preference, from lowest to highest…

Jameson

You’ve seen the commercials. You’ve taken shots at bars. You know Jameson. When you drink Jameson and compare it with other whiskeys, however, the harshness really comes out. Not recommended unless you’re looking to get plastered cheap.

Powers Gold Label

Ah, Powers Gold Label. For a mass market blend, you could do a whole lot worse. Creamy body with notes of red apple and honey. A bit harsh on the finish, but it’s still enjoyable. A go-to for cocktails.

Jameson 12-Year Special Reserve

Sweet aromatics and flavors of green apple, honey and a distinct rich caramel note. Medium length on the finish. Much better than the entry-level Jameson.

Powers 12-Year Special Reserve

Smooth, sweet, rich and floral. The spicy and nutty notes from the American oak barrels make this whiskey stand out from others. Delicious stuff.

Kilbeggan Traditional Irish Whiskey

A really smooth whiskey with lots of floral and honey-caramel aspects. Not the most complex whiskey, but for those who dislike the intense smoke and peat of Scotch, this elegant and smooth whiskey is a good way to go.

The Tyrconnell Single Malt

A floral whiskey with smooth with notes of pine sap, orange peel and sweet herbs. Impressive depth and complexity with a long, malty finish.

Redbreast 12-Year Single Pot Still

This whiskey shows a ton of complexity. A honeyed, silky, yet bold approach, I love the notes of caramel, orange blossom and toasted oak. Long, floral finish. Terriffic for sipping neat or on the rocks. One of the best Irish whiskeys I’ve tasted.

Anyone drinking any good Irish whiskey this weekend? If so, let me know what you’re drinking and what you think of it.

Sláinte!

DC Distillery Brings Spirit Back to the Capital

George Cassiday: my kind of businessman.

In my book George Cassiday is an American icon. Cassiday was a WWI vet who returned to the States and struggled to scrape by during the dark and dry days of Prohibition. But Cassidy figured out where the money was: bootlegging. It wasn’t long before Cassiday had carved out quite a life for himself secretly supplying members of the U.S. House and Senate with homemade spirits.

 

Cassiday would load up suitcases with liquor from a supplier in New York and smuggle them via train down to DC. A House Member gave Cassiday access to a secure basement office where he set up his spirits shop. His customers were the country’s lawmakers, supporters and opponents of Prohibition alike. The Office of the Clerk of the House quotes Cassiday as saying that Representatives were customers, “nearly every day Congress was in session and [I] had no serious trouble.” For ten years Cassiday supplied bootleg liquor to nearly four out of five lawmakers and “and exposed the hypocrisy of a Congress flaunting the rules it imposed on America.”

When Cassiday was finally arrested the U.S. House’s Sergeant at Arms described the man as wearing “a light green felt hat.” The media loved the story of this industrious bootlegger selling booze to the very people who had outlawed it. “The Man in the Green Hat” made his way into history, the American people made the hypocritical anti-booze lawmakers pay and Prohibition was repealed.

  

The spirit of bootlegging in DC lives on.

Cassiday’s (distilled) spirit now lives on Washington, DC’s New Columbia Distillery. The family endeavor is owned by Michael Lowe and his wife Melissa Kroning, and husband and wife John Uselton and Elizabeth Lowe. “In 2011 John and Michael were the first to bring craft distilling to DC,”they say on their website. “After a brief apprenticeship with Dry Fly Distillery, they located a home for their distillery in a 90-year-old warehouse near the Art Deco landmark Hecht Co. warehouse on New York Ave. When they learned the history of The Man In The Green Hat, they knew they had a name for DC’s own signature gin.”

And so we have Green Hat Gin.



Ian, my good buddy from high school and Northeast DC's ambassador extraordinaire, brought a bottle of this capital city gin over to my house recently. We watched a kick-ass boxing match and sipped some Green Hat on the rocks. The bottle has an urbage vintage look and a label reminiscent of a 1920s department store advertisement, complete with the batch number and handwritten alcohol content. Maybe it’s my pro-DC bias, maybe it’s my predilection for hand-crafted gin or maybe it’s my fascination with the history behind this label, but I think Green Hat Gin is special stuff.

On the Nose: The first thing I notice is a burst of lemon and Christmas tree. Classic aromas of juniper and tree sap mix with lime peel, grapefruit and a sweetness that reminds me of lavender. Basically, we’re talking about insanely complex aromas that jump out of the glass. 



I had the honor of tasting Green Hat's second batch of gin.

On the Palate: This gin is creamy and balanced, not sharp or biting in any way. It’s packed with lots of grapefruit and lemon-lime flavors, not to mention a solid dose of birch beer and pine snap. A hint of smoke lingers on the finish. The citrus balances the herbal characteristics so that no one flavor overwhelms the others.



Overall, this is a delicious gin. It’s so pure and focused, making it perfect for sipping on the rocks or using in citrus-driven cocktails. If you love gin’s unique blend of aromas and flavors, you simply have to try this stuff. If you live in or around DC, frankly, you have no excuse. We’re all familiar with the mantra of eating local and reducing our carbon footprint, so why not extend this logic to distilled spirits? I confess: there’s something inexplicably cool about sitting on my porch in DC and drinking a District-made gin, especially when it’s so damned tasty.

And Green Hat can add a new kick to classic cocktails like the gin martini, the rickey, the gimlet or a host of others. Green Hat even provides some classic and signature cocktail recipes on its site.

Apparently New Columbia doesn’t have a tasting permit yet, so they can’t pour samples from visitors. Hopefully that changes soon, because a trip to this distillery is on my DC bucket list.

Cheers to the District, to bootlegging and to gin!