Smith-Madrone excels with 2021 Chardonnay

In times of some tumult, I turn to familiar joys. Hikes at my local park, visits with my owl friends in the woods, spending time with family and friends, and revisiting wines that have never let me down.

Credit: Matthew Denny

For me, Spring Mountain’s Smith-Madrone is one of the most reliable producers in California wine. I’m of the opinion they make one of, if not the, best Rieslings in California – a crisp, complex, racy, and age-worthy white I’ve enjoyed many times. And their Cab:  another stunner and friend of the patient cellar-owner, somehow flies just low enough under the radar as to remain a relative screaming bargain in the Napa Cab category.

But my favorite is their Chardonnay. It’s uniquely crisp and mineral-driven, while showing the bountiful fruit and depth of their mountain vineyard terroir. And the skill and experience of duo Stu and Charlie Smith shines in the 2021 vintage. It’s worth every penny, delicious right now, but will surely reward those who cellar it.

Let me know what you think if you’ve tried a Smith-Madrone wine recently. And, if the answer is “I never have” – you may want to reconsider.

This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.

2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

SRP: $45
Pretty yellow color. Excellent aromatic display of white peaches, lemon-lime, green apples, with sea salt, chalk dust, hints of hay and yellow flowers, and notes of honey, almond skin, and hazelnut. The palate sports such precision and lively acidity, balanced wonderfully with this creamy concentration of texture. Flavors of crunchy yellow apples, white peaches, and limes, matched by an infusion of minerals, chalk, and sea salt, with notes of hay, white and yellow flowers, hazelnut, and white pepper. I wrote “mineral city” and underlined it. Lovely in its youth, but this will age very nicely, too. (94 points)

California New Releases: Cabs and Chards

Folks don’t seem to agree on much these days. There’s a lot of division out there. But I like to think the vast majority of wine-consuming Americans can agree on this – California Cabernet and Chardonnay are great. They’re classics for a reason.

And this week I’m focusing on some new releases from well-known California producers that deliver. Most of the wines are widely-available, and there’s a lot of value in here as well. And, these days, that matters a lot.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 La Crema Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. A dark but vibrant and spicy aromatic display, with black currants and plums, mixed with anise, tobacco, black pepper, some graphite, and iron, dried violets as well. The palate sports smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, with pleasantly ripe currants, blackberries, and blueberries. The fruit blends nicely with elements of graphite, minerals, mocha, tobacco, and cedar nuances. A rich but elegant blend of fruit from Alexander Mountain and Valley, Dry Creek, and Bennet Valleys. A beauty for the upcoming colder weather, as it’s drinking great now. (91 points)

2021 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Bold purple color. Exotic aromas of plum sauce, red and black currants, fig paste, with cool tones of eucalyptus, mint, chewing tobacco, along with some stony earth and mulch. The palate shows suave tannins, moderate acidity, and juicy, tangy fruits (blueberries, black cherries, figs). The fruit is accented by tones of mint, fallen leaves, black pepper, eucalyptus, and some earthy-stony tones. Classic vibes, lots to love, this is fun but complex and a great way to dive into Stag’s Leap Cabernet. (92 points)

2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $65
Vibrant purple color. Beautifully deep and complex aromatic display – I get roasted figs, dark plums, black cherries and currants, so tangy and vibrant, along with clay and loam, clove, pepper, creosote, black tea. The palate shows structured but fine-grained tannins, met nicely with bright acidity for a refreshing and balanced appeal. The black and red currant fruit, blueberries, and plum fruit shows depth and tanginess. All sorts of non-fruit nuances are packed in here (charcoal, minerals, cedar, tobacco, mint, black pepper, black tea) but will need time in the cellar to show their full potential. Love the tangy, mineral and earth-laden finish. This is beautiful now but needs some serious TLC (time laying in cellar) to express itself fully. At the price, and given the aging potential, this is a crazy value. Includes some Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this wine spends18 months in 65% new French oak. (94 points)

2023 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $25
Deep yellow with a nose of juicy peaches, green and yellow apples, nectarines, backed up by notes of hay, honeycomb, along with a cool mix of cornbread and almond butter, with a hint of minerals. Pleasantly creamy with fresh acidity and a yummy mix of yellow apples, bruised pears, white peaches, and orange creamsicle. I get notes of bread crumbs, whipped honey, and some refreshing mineral tones as well. (88 points)

2023 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Russian River Ranches - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $31
Rich yellow color. The nose shows a rich mix of white peaches, yellow apple, orange peel, along with scents of white tea, honey, some clove and mint. The palate is plush and bold but shows moderating acidity, with a delicious fruit salad of nectarine, yellow apples, papaya, white peach. The fruit is accented with notes of lemon pie with graham cracker crust, almond skin, mixed with welcomed nuances of chalk dust, minerals, and slate. Yummy, fresh, sporting solid complexity. (91 points)

California gems to welcome Autumn

Mid-September sunrise on the Potomac

I’m a big fan of the astronomical calendar for the seasons, and I love celebrating the Autumnal Equinox. So, at least in that sense, we’re still in Summer. It’s still been quite warm here in the Mid-Atlantic, and the hurricanes keep cranking, but the humidity is dropping and the cooler mornings are starting to arrive. I hope everyone is staying safe and enjoying September so far .

There’s plenty of delightful weather on the way, and I have some fresh, California wines that will keep things cool all Autumn long. Delicious Chardonnay abounds here, including one from one of my favorites (Smith-Madrone), a stunner from Three Sticks, and some relatively new-to-me wines (Ettore and Waypoint), and throw in a classic value from Ferrari-Carano.

But there are some awesome reds in here as well, from crisp a crisp and airy Waypoint Pinot, to another winner of a Zin from Frank Family. Lastly, I have the Lithology Cab from the Alejandro Bulgheroni Estate, which is a real treat if you’re looking to bury some shockingly-good Napa Cab in the cellar and enjoy the 2019 vintage. Check this one out.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow, slight green color. The aromas pop with gooseberry, lime, kiwi, green melon, along with wild mint, fresh oregano, sliced chives, and some floral perfume and honeysuckle. The palate is ripe and peachy and generous in texture, but shows racy acidity and a focused sense of clarity. White peach, limes, guava, the fruit is laced with cool tones of herbal tea, white pepper, celery seed, sliced green bell pepper. Those elements are nuanced and woven in really well with honey and minerals, lots of flowers. Summery for sure but year-round goodness in here. A steal and a complex value at the price point. (90 points)

2022 Conundrum Wines White Table Wine - USA, California
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Smells peach-keen with daisies, dandelion, hay, orange blossom (floral city!), along with notes of honey, circus peanuts, and some herbal hints. The palate has a rich and creamy texture but surprising acidity, with flavors of yellow plums, pineapple, lime zest, peach nectar, a tropical mélange of all sorts of goodness. White and yellow flowers mix with tones of chalk, celery seed, mint. Very pleasant with a tropical, breezy vibe that will keep summer going all fall. I’ve long been a fan of this perennially-changing, fun, ripe, experimental wine, and it’s nice to know this style is still going. Screaming value, crowd-pleasing, what’s not to love? Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Viognier. (89 points)

2021 Ferrari Carano Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. Yummy aromas of yellow apples, juicy pineapple, some lemon curd, with nuances of buttered biscuits, honey, tropical blossoms, with some hay and almond skin. The palate sports a delightful creaminess and moderate acidity, with a fun feel and pleasant balance. Yellow apples, kiwi, and lemon curd fruit, a fresh and juicy appeal, with notes of almond, bruised apple, nougat, along with some salty, floral complexities. Classic stuff, crowd-pleasing for sure, but balanced and delicious. Aged in stainless steel and 30% French oak. (89 points)

2019 Ettore Winery Chardonnay Zero - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Intense aromatic display, with bruised apples, white peach, orange marmalade, and apricot, along with saline, hazelnut, and a waxy, spicy, almost Jura-esque vibe, and it smells awesome. Rich and waxy texture yet vibrant acidity keeps this alive and kicking, with flavors of apricots, lemon marmalade, dried pineapple, and orange peel. There’s a lot of cool nutty, deep, honeyed tones, but the wine stays so fresh and tingly, with complex floral, saline, chalk dust, and herbal vibes. Perhaps a bit on the adventurous side, but it pulls it off so well and is delicious as it is interesting. (92 points)

2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. The lemon curd, orange peel, and yellow pear aromas are delightful, with notes of yellow and white flowers, inviting tones of biscuit dough, sea salt, crushed stones – love it. The palate is racy and spritely with a delightful texture and harmonious fruit (lemons, yellow pears, white peach). Nuances of white tea, honey, sea salt, slight nougat and graham cracker. Racy and precise, deep and age-worth, this has it all. Disclaimer, I’m a huge fan of this wine in general, but even if it was not my personal style, I don’t think you can argue that this is one helluva well-made Chardonnay. And the 2019 is singing, and will continue to do so in the cellar. Absurd value, easy buy. (95 points)

2021 Three Sticks Chardonnay One Sky - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $70
Rich yellow color. The nose shows yellow pears, lemon curd, orange peel, along with a lot of yellow flowers, honey, chalk and limestone dust, along with nuances of almond, peanut skin, white tea, shaved ginger. The palate sports a bold texture with lip-smacking acidity, and flavors of yellow apples, lemon bars, along with crunchy green apples. The palate is gorgeous, with beautiful texture and focused acidity. The complexities are really impressive: smashed rocks, chalk dust, ocean spray, limestone, nuanced of saltine cracker and hay. The mouthfeel, flavors, balance, and finish are gnarly. A shockingly awesome Chardonnay that will age for a very long time. For the price? C’mon, this is nuts. (94 points)

2020 Waypoint Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $60
Juicy, deep yellow color. The aromas show a delightful mix of rich and vibrant, with lemon curd, orange peel, with white peach, almond biscuits, cinnamon crumb cake, flinty minerals, chalk dust, white flowers. The palate shows such creamy, lovely texture, balanced with pristine acidity and a clear mineral focus. Flavors of golden apples and lemon curd, mixed with all sorts of honey, graham cracker, almonds, hay. There’s also a lot of sea salt, crushed stones, minerals, all sorts of good stuff packed in here. The nuance and lip-smacking vibrancy of this wine, and the balance with the richness, really fires. Aged 18 months in 43% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Waypoint Pinot Noir Terra de Promissio Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $60
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and lively, with fresh raspberries, strawberries, sliced rhubarb, with notes of white pepper, clay, creosote, mint, dried rose petals, very cool! The palate is crisp and airy with a fresh appeal and nervy aesthetic despite the fine-grained tannins and solid structure. The juiciest and tangiest strawberries, red currants, and cranberry relish, mix so well with tones of oregano, mint, dried rose petals, all sorts of savory spices and nuances. Despite the depth, age-worthiness, and complexity, it maintains a cool, airy, vibrant appeal. Beautiful Sonoma Pinot. (94 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Rich purple color. Roasted figs, blackberry jam, tangy blueberries, with notes of smoky earth, sage, incense sticks, charcoal, anise – a lot of cool things. The palate sports exceptional balance with suave tannins, a rich feel, but a bright acidity. The fruit is tangy and deep, like farm fresh blueberry and blackberry jam, with crunchy currants, and that is woven together with threads of violet petals, black pepper, oregano, all sorts of earthy, stony, and mineral vibes. This is a perennially excellent Zinfandel, but this vintage in particular has such vibrancy and staying power. Bring on cooler nights and this wine. (93 points)

2019 Lithology Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley

SRP: $150
Such a deep but inviting purple color. The nose shows a dark core of black currant, blackberry, fig paste, and these classic Napa Cab nuances you love to sniff: dusty earth, pencil shavings, tobacco, some eucalyptus and violet tones. On the palate, you really start to grasp the depth and intricacy of this wine, with grippy but refined tannins and fresh acidity, setting an open stage for the tangy black currant and dark plum fruit. The non-fruit nuances show so much, with graphite, charcoal, and minerals on one hand, and coffee grounds, dark chocolate, sweet pipe tobacco, and clove on the other. The concentration and depth are a delight. Yes, it is very enjoyable to sip this wine this young, but this should be buried for five to ten at least. I love the 2019 vintage, and this expression is exquisite. Cab with Petit Verdot, Cab Franc, aged 22 months in French oak. (95 points)

Wine across America

I can’t believe it’s July. This summer is speeding past, but I’m making plans to take advantage of the weather and time with friends and family. I wish you all a great summer break, wherever and whenever you find it. And as the Fourth of July approaches, it’s a good time to highlight some diverse wines from all across America.

Long-time readers know I’m a big Virginia wine fan, and recently wrote about the Governor’s Cup winners. I’m back with a producer I’ve talked about before, and will do again, because they’re great: Stinson Vineyards. They make some Virginia gems and are not afraid to experiment, from Tannat rosé to skin-ferment Rkatsiteli, I find anything with their label worth buying.

From sea to shining sea on the West Coast, I have some delightfully zippy and coastal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Fort Ross Seaview Winery that brings serious value to the table. And Fiddlehead Cellars has two seriously complex summer-friendly wines from the Central Coast.

Napa’s Newton comes out swinging with some heavy hitters. Their unfiltered Chardonnay is a regional classic. And the single vineyard Cabernets do an incredible job of showcasing the diversity of Napa regions through their different properties. Taken together, these wines represent a celebration of Napa Cabernet and the varied, exquisite sites where it thrives. The 2019 and 2018 vintages are both singing, and these elegant Cabs would make great gifts or cellar stockers.

From the sun-roasted, high elevation Sonoran Desert comes Aridus, an Arizona-based winery that puts out solid Southwest wines at very reasonable prices. I’m a huge fan of Arizona wines, and this producer offers a nice intro into the state’s industry.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

California

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot Noir Pink Fiddle Fiddlestix Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $32
Deep watermelon color. Ripe and vibrant on the nose with white peaches, red apples, watermelon, with fresh, floral tones of lilies, grassy meadow, crushed shells and white pepper. The palate shows a creamy depth of texture and lip-smacking acidity. Beautiful flavors of watermelon, orange slices, white cherry and peach. The non-fruit nuances are great – minerals and stones, rushing mountain stream, with notes of fennel, hay, white pepper, dried flowers. A beautifully complex and focused single-vineyard Pinot Noir pink that offers deliciousness and a unique vibe. (91 points)

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc La Presa Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Los Olivos District
SRP: $32
Pale lemon color. So juicy on the nose, with guava, white peach, and papaya, along with fresh lime zest, sliced flower stems, wild green onion, chalk dust. The palate is so crunchy and fresh, a bright appeal but a pleasantly creamy texture adds to the experience, with flavors of yellow apples, papaya, and white peach. It has these racy undertones of chalk dust, minerals, saline, and plenty of perfume and nuanced white pepper and green herbs. Lively and complex, this is a gem of a Sauv Blanc from a special site (La Presa Vineyard). Stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation. (92+ points)

2022 Ancient Peaks Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch
SRP: $18
Light yellow color. Aromatically, this pops with flavors of nectarine, guava, and white peach, with a big dose of tropical flowers, dandelion, hints of honey and sliced cucumber – love it. In the mouth, this wine has delightful texture, rich but balanced with moderate acidity, and juicy flavors of cantaloupe, guava, and orange peel. Nuances of yellow and white flowers, some honey, and salty, flinty notes on the finish. For summer outdoor gatherings, this would be perfect. Serious value alert in this dynamic, balanced Paso Sauvignon Blanc. (90 points)

2021 Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. Peachy keen on the nose with guava and banana, with tropical flowers, orange marmalade, some chalky tones. The palate is medium-bodied and creamy with moderate acidity and a fun, summery feel. Creamy and fruity with peaches, guava, and lime zest, mixed with yellow flowers and honey. A fun, crowd-pleasing Sauv Blanc that has a lot of personality and complexity for the price. (86 points)

2021 Newton Chardonnay Unfiltered - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Unabashed yellow color. The nose sports richer tones of honeycomb, ginger snap, whipped honey, with brighter tones of white flowers and dandelions, along with limes, lemon curd, and yellow apple fruit. Deep texture on the palate with racy acidity and a pretty display of yellow apples, golden pears, drizzled with limes. There are a lot of chalky, salty vines in here, and the wine maintains this clear presence throughout, with notes of mountain stream and minerals that accent the honey and nougat nuances. Delicious, balanced, beautiful. Barrel-fermented and aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

N.V. Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Simply Cutrer - USA, California
SRP: $20 – 4/250ml cans
Light yellow color. A lively nose of pineapples, lemons, orange peel, bright and sweet tropical fruits, with notes of celery seed, honey, and yellow flowers. The palate has medium acidity and a nice creaminess with a steely, crisp appeal. Crushable, medium-bodied with flavors of lemon, green and yellow apples, and pineapple. Notes of crushed sweet tarts and chalk add a nice kick. Fresh, enjoyable vibes in this canned Chardonnay that would be a good call for summer camping or outdoor enjoyment. (87 points)

2021 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
SRP: $30
Deep yellow color. The aromas show a pleasantly balanced blend between richer tones (honey, nougat, apricot, ginger, almond) with brighter ones (white flowers, sea salt, crushed limestone). The palate shows rich texture and racy acidity, making for a juicy but lip-smacking Chard with flavors of apricot and yellow apple. Notes of chalk, flint, almond shell, ginger snaps, and honey add complexity. Rich but nuanced, this would please many a Chardonnay-loving palate. Aged eight months in neutral French oak. (90 points)

2021 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. Such a fresh, floral nose with tangy red plums, wild raspberries, bright strawberries, along with complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, deep earth, violets. The palate shows moderate but chewy tannins and vibrant acidity, which makes for a lovely, balanced wine, with flavors of zesty cranberry relish and juicy black cherries. There are a host of savory but vibrant accents in this wine (rhubarb, spiced tea, anise). Fun and fresh but serious complexity and balance, not to mention value. Aged nine months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $210
Dark purple color. A deep core of blackberries, currants, wild blueberries on the nose, along with rich soil, graphite, charcoal, cedar, some anise and chewing tobacco – a lot to go through and enjoy. Full and grippy but the acidity is delightfully tangy and keeps this wine so energetic. A dark mix of tangy blackberries, currants, and blueberries, along with complex notes of pencil shavings, coffee grounds, mocha, black tea, and there are complex notes of rocks and minerals to enjoy. A long life ahead of this one. All Cab, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (93 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $210
Beautifully deep purple. The nose has such a lovely mix of fresh/tangy with deeper, darker elements – juicy black cherries, roasted figs, tangy wild blueberries, the fruit blends so well with graphite, anise, tar, stony, herbal vibes. A solid frame of grippy tannins with refined edges, balanced wonderfully with fresh acidity. The black cherry and tangy currant fruit is lively and focused, and laced with a host of complex earthy, stony elements – minerals, graphite, smashed rocks, with savory black pepper and mushroom glaze notes. Complex and beautiful, this needs a serious decant or to be forgotten in the cellar for a while to show its full potential. All Cabernet, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $210
Lush, dark purple. On the nose, I get a deep compote of blueberries, plum sauce, tart black currants, mixed with loamy earth, a lot of stony and mineral essence, with dried violets, iron, tobacco, spiced black tea and clove – wow, give this serious swirling or a decant. Grippy but suave on the palate, lovely balance between well-build tannins and lively acidity. Dark and tangy, with pure fruit (black cherry, tart currant, plums, blueberries), blended expertly with pepper, anise, nuanced herbal vibes, spiced tea, graphite and minerals. Deep but effortless feel, and the finish is so long and lovely. This has so much more to show in a decade, but what a beaut. 100% Cab, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

2019 Newton The Puzzle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $135

Deep purple color. The aromas show a rich tapestry of figs, plum compote, black cherries, along with savory tones of spiced tea, black pepper, anise, with cocoa and some roasted herb tones – really needs swirling or a decant to get these beautiful tones going. The palate is full but fresh with solid but supple tannins and really fresh acidity. The fruit is a mix of crunchy black currant, roasted figs, and juicy plums, gorgeous concentration, with nuances of black tea, menthol, graphite, flinty mineral tones. This is a long ager for sure, but has such freshness that it makes it enjoyable young as well. Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Cab Franc, 7% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Grenache, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

Arizona

2019 Aridus Viognier - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $40
Rich yellow color. Aromatically tropical but with these floral, succulent accents: pineapple, peaches, lemon curd, with notes of tropical flowers, honey, graham cracker and some slight white pepper and sea salt. So fun on the palate, a creamy texture with a waxy appeal, but it stays lively with medium acidity. Flavors of orange marmalade, yellow pears, and lemon cake mix with notes of orange blossom, dandelion, with honey and some white tea. This wine was fermented and aged 14 months in sandstone jars (which is very interesting). A unique and clear expression of Arizona Viognier that is getting more expressive with age. (90 points)

2019 Aridus Tempranillo - USA, Arizona
SRP: $50
Vibrant plum color. Lovely aromas of cranberry sauce, ripe black and red cherries, along with a cool mix of savory tones, like tar, pepper, potpourri, creosote. The palate shows smooth tannins and medium acidity, which supports a mix of gushing black cherry and plum fruit, ripe but nuanced. There are a lot of interesting spicy, meaty, peppery tones, with tar, smoky earth, dried roses. A really fun and accessible style, super juicy and easy-drinking but it sports solid complexity as well. Delicious example of AZ Tempranillo. Includes 14% Graciano, aged 28 months in oak. (90 points)

2019 Aridus Syrah - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. The nose explodes with roasted figs, currant jam, cherry jam, along with complex notes of smoky earth, sage, pepper, clove, dried rose petals, eucalyptus. On the palate, this is suave and ripe with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Roasted plums and figs mix with tangy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with nuances of white pepper, warm clay, desert herbs, and black pepper. I’ve grilled steak in the Arizona desert with a different vintage of this wine, and I highly recommend it, or wherever you’re grilling. 100% Syrah, aged 30 months in oak. (90 points)

Virginia

2022 Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. Smells like a burst of guava and white peach, drizzled with lime, topped in sudsy floral brightness, white pepper, fresh basil and sliced cucumber. The palate shows waves of textural depth and pristine acid, with flinty mineral tones. Creamy yellow apples mixed with crunchy green pears and lime, and the floral, herbal, and saline complexity sings. A consistently exciting and clear Virginia Sauvignon Blanc, and this vintage keeps that going. Virginia doesn’t have value? This wine says otherwise. Fermented in a mix of concrete and stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $23
Ripe watermelon color. The wine smells of bright red fruits and floral perfume, with red apple and wild raspberry, along with rose petals, floral perfume, and notes of hay, celery seed, sea salt, spicy white pepper. Texturally, this is plush but bright, with juicy texture and a streak of minerals. Flavors of white cherry, crunchy red apple, and watermelon blend well with mint, spiced white tea, and flowers, chalk dust. Classic flavors and feel. A reliably delicious Virginia rosé that continues the streak of excellence. (90 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $41Deep ruby color. The palate is a ripe and tangy compote of raspberries, wild blueberries, black cherries, with menthol, earth, clove, anise, all sorts of cool smoky, tar, spicy, violet vibes. Upon sipping, this wine is ripe but nuanced with solid structure, fine-edged tannins, and fresh acidity – each sip is lip-smacking. The black cherry and currant fruit is mixed with spiced cranberry relish, roasted chestnut, dusty earth, tobacco, warm clay – lots of cool things to parse through. A Virginia Meritage worth seeking out for sure: 38% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Blind Tasting Some New California Chardonnays

It’s been a while since I’ve focused exclusively on California Chardonnay, so I’m excited to delve back in. 

The breadth of different styles is what always keeps me coming back to Cali Chards. No matter how California Chardonnay is generalized as a category, there are so many wines that do their own thing, buck the trend.

I don’t curate the wines I receive, so while my personal favorites aren’t featured here, I think this is a solid group. 

Ramey comes in with four different single-vineyard wines, each of which stood out. It’s interesting, as all four of these wines are treated the same in the cellar: native yeast fermentation, full maloactic fermentation in barrel, with battonage, aged about 20 months in 20% new French oak. They’re all 14.5% alcohol, too. They all rock a similar tune while showing nuanced harmonies of their vineyard site. Smith-Madrone comes through with a killer Spring Mountain Chard, again. And some less expensive wines like The Paring show that there’s still value to be found in Cali Chard. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind. 

2016 Talbott Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $42
Aromas of ripe pears and yellow apples, topped in cinnamon, nougat, salted peanuts. Ripe and juicy on the palate but lively acidity. Creamy apples and pears, lemon curd, juicy fruit but well balanced, too. Nougaty, honeyed tea, cream, but also some floral perfume and chalk dust. Fun stuff, but showing some complexity, too. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak, 14.1% alcohol. (89 points) 

2017 The Paring Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
The nose shows green apples, white peach, limes, with chalky notes, peanut shell, white flowers. Medium-bodied, plush texture, crisp acidity, it’s framed well with nuanced, tangy fruit (green and yellow apples, apricot). Notes of sea salt, chalk dust, minerals, they blend well with these honey, ginger and chestnut elements. Delicious, vibrant style but significant complexity. Aged 1/3 in used French oak, 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 stainless steel,1/3 malolactic fermentation. (90 points)

2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Nuanced aromas of honey, warm tea, almond, with sea salt, crushed chalk, yellow apples and pears. Full but integrated so well, with deep texture, but this racy acidity that keeps it bright and lofty. Glazed apples, candied orange peel, lemon, the fruit mixes well with these salty, chalky, rocky, mineral elements. Lovely stuff that should age wonderfully. From their dry-farmed vineyard, barrel-fermented, aged nine months in 80% new French oak. 14.4% alcohol. (93 points)

2018 Clos Pegase Chardonnay Mitsuko's Vineyard - California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $30
Nose of apricot and orange marmalade, whipped honey, graham cracker, yellow flowers. Lush texture, full and smooth, but moderate acidity keeps it lively. Hedonistic fruit (glazed pear, orange marmalade, pineapple), with honey, almond cake, vanilla. But there’s also brighter elements of honeysuckle, river rocks and green tea. Lovely depth, very delicious. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak, 14.6% alcohol. (90 points) 

2018 Pfendler Vineyards Chardonnay -
SRP: $45
Bold nose of ginger, spiced tea, honey, candle wax, nutmeg, oCalifornia, Sonoma Coast, Petaluma Gapn top of lemon cake and yellow apple. Juicy and ripe on the palate with plump apricot, bruised yellow apple, and lots of ginger, cinnamon crumb cake. Rich style, but there’s a nice streak of acid and some lime and mineral tones. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. (88 points) 

2018 Cline Cellars Chardonnay Estate - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $13
On the nose, I get a nice mix of toasted nuts, honey, with candied lemon, orange peel. Medium/full-bodied, smooth texture, lively acidity. A bright lemon/orange peel element, with apricot, marmalade and peach. The fruit mixes with toasted nuts, honeycomb. There’s also this floral, perfumed, minty quality, with vanilla and ginger snap notes. I was surprised to see the price point here, because it offers a lot for the money. 60% maloactic fermentation, aged four months in French oak. (87 points)

2016 Ramey Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
Creamy, inviting nose of buttered pears, yellow apples, with lots of honey, ginger, peanut shell, nougat, some floral perfume. Full and suave with plump texture but vibrant, lip-smacking acidity, and the balance is superb. Apples, pears, orange marmalade, with lots of complex elements of biscuits, peanut brittle. There are also these really lively mountain stream and mineral elements. Delicious, fascinating stuff, a standout in the tasting. A stunner that I’d love to age for five years. Aged 20 months in 21% new French oak. (94 points) 

2016 Ramey Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
The nose shows a bright burst of lime, lemon curd, apricot, along with sea spray, and subtle nutty, waxy, honeyed elements. Crisp acid frames the wine nicely against the plush texture, deep but stays so lively. Green apples, lemon curd, apricot, lush but vibrant, with sea salt, crushed chalk and oyster shell notes that are really delicious. The nutty, almond, ginger snap elements blend in smoothly. I’d love to see this in three to five years. Old Wente clone Chardonnay, aged 19 months in 20% new French oak. (93 points) 

2016 Ramey Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
An aromatic burst of yellow apples and pears, with honey, candle wax, candied ginger, white flowers, lots going on. Plump texture, creamy and lush, but the acidity keeps this bright, too. Lemon curd, key lime pie and yellow pear fruit, topped in sea salt, minerals, a crisp streak of those elements, but also buttered biscuits with honey and almond, too. Gorgeous stuff, tons of depth, but also so precise. Aged 20 months in 22% new French oak. (94 points) 

2016 Ramey Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
The nose shows lots of apricot, yellow apples and lime, with honeycomb, ginger snap cookies, coffee cake, but also these breezy, airy, floral elements as well. Lush texture on the palate but precise acidity, intriguing balance. Lemon and lime meringue, apricot and green apple (gorgeous fruit). The notes of peanut brittle and ginger snap mix well with the sea salt, chalk and yellow flower tones. Complex, harmonious, this could really age well, too. Aged 20 months in 18% new French oak. (93 points)






This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

This week, we have another round of new releases from California. In recent weeks, I’ve received a lot of different wines (whites and reds) from all over the state, from good bargains for early drinking, to splurge-worthy wines that should be cellared for a few Presidential elections.

For me, Steele wine from Lake County has long been a reputable producer of value-driven wines of high quality and distinction. The current crop of releases keeps going on that same track.

There are a few wines from different Gallo brands in this tasting, and some wines from the Hess Collection as well. I also tasted four wines from Hestan Vineyards (a first for me). These “Stephanie” label wines are sourced from a 56-acre estate vineyard, and all four of these wines hail from that vineyard’s 2015 vintage. I found these four wines (treated the same way in the cellar), offered a nice look into their vineyard and style, and I think the wines are really pretty and offer a lot of value compared to many other Napa reds.

Lastly, Napa stalwart Shafer contributes three exciting wines. And the Relentless Syrah and Hillside Select Cabernet strut their stuff.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


Whites

2018 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc Bien Nacido Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Bright and juicy nose of kiwi, peaches and pineapple, with lots of floral tones (dandelion, honeysuckle, orange blossom). Nice creaminess on the palate, balanced well with bright acidity. Tangy and fresh but plump with lemon curd, pineapple and peaches. Topped in sea spray, floral perfume, cut flower stems, some hints of love and white pepper, too. Lovely stuff at a great price. Stainless steel-fermented (maloactic fermentation, too) and aged in old French oak. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Chardonnay Cuvée - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $24
Light gold color. Nose boasts yellow apples, apricot, guava, a tropical but zesty blend with honey, sea salt and wildflowers. Plush texture on the palate, crisp acidity, and there’s a nice mix of papaya, yellow pears, lime juice. Notes of chalk, sea salt, honey and graham cracker add complexity, and there’s this real sense of vibrancy, harmony and balance that is rare to find in a Chardonnay at this price point. Tons of value, highly recommended. Aged eight months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay Winemaker's Series - California, Napa Valley, Coombsville
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. On the nose, yellow apples, juicy pears, oranges, with cinnamon, salted nuts, hay and honeycomb. Medium+ bodied, creamy yet zesty acidity. Juicy green and yellow apples, lemon curd, the fruit is balanced with chalky, crushed shell vibes, and richer notes of nougat and pie crust. Rich and deep but balanced and vibrant as well. Sourced from Haynes Vineyard old vine Wente clone Chardonnay. (90 points)

2017 San Simeon Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $19
Deep gold color. The nose pops with honeybutter, candied pecans, peanut brittle and ginger, over top bruised apple and orange marmalade. Plump and creamy texture with medium acid, and plenty of juicy pineapple, yellow apple and orange marmalade fruit. Hedonistic elements of toasted pecan, honey and oak round out the finish. Rich, fun and yummy. Barrel-fermented (75% new French and American oak), and this goes through about 70% maloactic fermentation. (86 points)

2016 Maddalena Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $15
Intense gold color. On the nose: hunks of pineapple, baked apple, with toasted nuts, nougat, whipped honey and cinnamon sticks. Plump and texturally rich with medium/low acidity. Honeyed, waxy and nutty with baked apple and pears and lemon bars. Notes of almond brittle and peanut as well. For fans of juicy, nutty, oaky Chardonnay. This sees 30% new American and French oak, and 35% maloactic fermentation, sourced from three vineyards in Arroyo Seco and the Santa Lucia Highlands. (85 points)

2017 The Hess Collection Chardonnay Panthera - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. Aromas are rich and inviting, with pineapple, lemon curd, sea salt, ginger, cinnamon. Very pretty texture, plump, full, medium/low acidity but the wine stays lively. Lemon curd, yellow apple and pineapple, topped in ginger, cinnamon coffee cake, and honey tones, but also brighter elements of white flowers and crushed chalky. Bold but nuanced. Aged 18 months in 35% new French oak. (89 points)

Reds

2016 Talbott Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $45
Medium ruby color. I like these aromas of spicy cranberries, tangy strawberries, with bright notes of white pepper, sweet roses and rhubarb. Medium+ bodied on the palate with soft tannins, and super fresh, zippy acidity. Juicy cherries, spiced cranberry sauce, sweet red plums, the fruit is mixed with rhubarb, clove, white pepper and roses. I like the vibrancy, and these mushroom, earth tones underneath. A lot of personality and freshness. (89 points)

2016 Maddalena Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $17
Vibrant purple color. Smells of sweet plums, blueberry jam, with violets, vanilla and mocha. Full and smooth, chewy and dark with velvety tannins and medium/low acidity. Blackberries and blueberry jam, bold and fruity but not too over-the-top. Notes of anise, dark chocolate and mocha. Juicy and fruit-forward but it holds itself together well for a wine at this price point. (85 points)

2016 San Simeon Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Medium purple color. Nose shows tangy black currants, wild blueberries, with a nice kick of smoky earth, cracked black pepper and green herbs. Fresh acidity frames the wine quite nicely, accessible tannins, the balance is attractive. Tart black currants and black cherries, with notes of incense sticks, spice rub, cocoa and vanilla. Fun, early-drinking style, but it could actually improve for two or three years. Aged 36 months in a mix of new and old French and American. (87 points)

2016 Mount Peak Winery Zinfandel Rattlesnake - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $48
Bright purple color. Smells of sweet black cherries, plum cake, with sweet cocoa, anise, vanilla cookies. Rich and huge on the palate (16%), with chewy tannins and just enough acidity to carry itself. Jammy, juicy, with plums, raspberries, black cherries, roasted figs, with sweet pipe tobacco, coffee, vanilla, hazelnut crème. Lush and bold, but well-done and undeniably delicious. From mostly Monte Rosso Vineyard fruit. (89 points)

2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $28
Medium purple color. Juicy black cherries and smoky cherries on the nose, with charcoal, anise and black pepper notes. Medium/full-bodied, nice grip but the tannins have rounded edges, and the acidity is lively. Dusty, juicy ad pleasantly spicy, as black cherries blend well with nose of rose petals, charcoal, scorched earth and pepper. Smooth coffee and vanilla woven in well. Lots of depth, freshness, and this could even improve for a few years. Impressive Lake County value, per usual from Steele. Aged 18 months in 30% new French and America oak. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $20
Loving the spicy aromas here (oregano, sage, black pepper, clove) on top of juicy cherries and raspberries. Vibrant acidity frames the wine well, a medium-bodied frame, velvety but structured tannins, nicely balanced. Black cherries and raspberry jam topped in anise, pepper, cocoa. Fresh and delicious with a spicy, earthy, herbal, floral finish. Aged 14 months in 30% new French and American oak. (88 points)

2017 The Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Lion Tamer - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. Lush, inviting nose of sweet plums, red and black currants, and lavender, dark chocolate, coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied, velvety and suave with lively acidity, tangy red and black cherries, juicy but fresh fruit. Nicely integrated aspects of coffee, sweet green herbs, black tea, with nuanced vanilla and cedar. Lots going on, but really accessible now. Cabernet, 11% Petite Sirah, 8% Malbec. Aged in 33% new French and American oak for 20 months. (90 points)

2015 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $175
Dark purple color. Gorgeous, deep nose of currants, black cherries and plum skin, with eucalyptus, sweet pipe tobacco, scorched earth, vanilla – complex! Full and plush on the palate with smooth tannins, and delightful acidity, so the balance works out quite well. Rich, juicy plums, black cherries, black currants. The fruit melds well with complex graphite, charcoal, loamy and rocky earth, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, with notes of vanilla and cedar rounding things out. Long, lush finish. Lovely stuff that will do well with three to five years in the cellar and hold for quite some time. All Cabernet (a blend from various vineyards in Napa) aged 20 months in 97% new French oak. (93 points)

2017 Shafer TD-9 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Delightful nose, deep, rich and vibrant, with black cherries, blackberries, topped with scorched earth, graphite, and coffee. Full but smooth, suave and velvety tannins, but vibrant acidity, which keeps it lively. Pretty plum, currant and cherry fruit, with violets, earth and coffee. Complex, structured, deep, but also lively and downright fun to drink. This is delicious now but also could improve over the next handful of years. 62% Merlot, 22% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 20 months in all new French oak. (92 points)

2016 Shafer Relentless - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. So much to unpack on the nose, it’s kind of crazy. Gorgeous boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit, tossed with waves of pepper, anise, clove, leather, charcoal and espresso elements. Obviously full-bodied and burly, this is big stuff but the acidity actually keeps it lip-smacking in spite of its richness. The freshest, sweetness blueberries and blackberries, and the fruit is laced with leather, pepper, spicy herbs, charcoal and rocky earth tones. Complex and rich, yet effortless and pure — a beautiful young Relentless that is built the long haul (a decade at least would do it good). Syrah and 10% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in all new French oak. (96 points)

2015 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap DistrictSRP: $310
Deep, concentrated purple color. The aromas are dark and rich, and the wine needs time to show the full aromatic display: dark currants, plum cake, fig paste, along with violets, espresso, graphite, smashed rocks, scorched earth and vanilla. Full-bodied, grippy and young, but it shows moderating acidity, and it amounts to a bold, concentrated but smooth and integrate feel. Boysenberry, black currants and black cherries abound (exquisite fruit), and it’s matched with complex notes of charcoal, graphite, rocky soil, also vanilla, sarsaparilla and cedar. Concentrated for the long-term, but also already elegant and expressive. All Cabernet aged 32 months in 100% new French oak barrels. (95 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Malbec Stephanie Selection - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Dark, saucy purple. Lush aromas of raspberries and blackberries, topped in sweet cocoa, mint, eucalyptus and violets. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, this is velvety and sports crisp acidity, framing the wine nicely. Blackberries and raspberries, accented with coffee, violets, cedar and vanilla. Plush and juicy but it has a bright, floral aesthetic with subtle earth, iron and minerals. Delicious. Includes a 7% mix of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Dark purple color. A nice tart, dark core of black cherries, roasted figs and sweet pipe tobacco. Powerful but suave, with a chewy texture and medium/low acidity. Lots of dark currants, tart blackberries, laced with graphite, smoky charcoal, and cool mint and eucalyptus notes. Lots of depth, but the balance is impressive. Five years should do this well. Includes a combined 16% Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Red Wine Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Inky purple color. Bold aromas of black cherries and cassis, concentrated but suave, with lots of black pepper, smoky charcoal, cedar and pencil shavings. Serious concentration and grip on the palate with tart black currants and juicy black cherries. Complex notes of spicy pepper, wild herbs, eucalyptus, charcoal, violets and anise. There’s a lot going on here, deep and concentrated, but also fresh, this could easily improve for 5-8 years. 32% Petit Verdot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Malbec, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Merlot Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. Smells of juicy red and black cherries, dark plums, lots of violets, rose petals, sweet coffee, pleasantly earthy elements. Medium/full-bodied with lively acidity, moderate tannins. Smooth plum and currant fruit blend well with potting soil, cigar box, with cedar, smoke and violet elements as well. Nice concentration, but balanced and quite fresh, too. This could do well with a few years in the cellar. Includes 9% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week, I’m back with a catch-all report of wines I received these past few months but didn’t get around to reviewing until recently. (It’s been a busy and enjoyable summer, and I hope the same is true for you.) 

Smith-Madrone’s Spring Mountain wines are consistently some of my favorite from Napa, and I love their Chardonnay and Riesling. So, since I tasted these wines sighted, I tried to approach them with as much skepticism as possible. That said, the 2016s showed wonderfully. Crystal clear, pristine wines that are both begging for serious cellar time. And for the price, I’m still amazed these wines exist.   

C.V.N.E. comes through with some moderately-priced Riojas worth checking out. And Italy’s Garafoli provides three wines from Marche that offer some deliciousness and intrigue for the price. 

Lastly, Virginia’s Early Mountain delivers a juicy red quaffer for those late summer scorchers. 

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2016 Garafoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Podium” - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. So perfumed, with aromas of peaches, limes, dandelion, floral potpourri, sea salt. Nice breadth of texture on the palate with vibrant acidity. Oranges, yellow plums, apricot, lots of fresh fruit, with plenty of sea salt and spicy floral potpourri, along with richer elements of honey and wax. Lots going on here. A single-vineyard Verdicchio, fermented and aged in concrete and stainless steel. (90 points)  

2018 Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Macrina” - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. So floral, with lots of honeysuckle and daisies, along with peaches, honeydew and limes. Lively and crisp on the palate with a pleasantly plump feel. Honeydew drizzled with lime, and I get these notes of chalk, minerals, punchy herbal tones as well. This is pure summer fun but also shows significant complexity, especially for the price. Aged five months in concrete and stainless steel. (88 points)  

2016 Garofoli Rosso Conero Piancarda - Italy, Marche, Rosso Conero
SRP: $17
Deep, juicy purple color. The nose boasts raspberries and black cherries with smoky menthol, wild herbs, eucalyptus and pepper. Vibrant acidity, dusty tannins, with a solid core of red and black cherry fruit. Notes of smoky, charcoal, herbs, a bit sharp and linear, but there’s enough juiciness and complexity that it works. Spicy incense notes on the finish. 100% Montepulciano aged one year in oak. (88 points)  

2016 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Cune Crianza - Spain, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $13
Vibrant ruby color. Nose shows juicy black cherries, spiced cranberry sauce, clove, roses and tobacco. Crisp, lively and fresh on the palate with dusty tannins. The wine is ripe and juicy but stays fresh and bright. Raspberries, cherries, topped in cocoa, dusty earth, roses, clove and mint. Lots of complexity here for a wine at this price point. An attractive, inviting, drink-me-now Rioja. (88 points)  

2016 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Crianza - Spain, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $16
Bright ruby color. Aromas of cherries, chilled strawberries, along with sweet roses, clay/earthy tones and cocoa powder. Fresh and bright, light tannins, juicy red fruit, crisp acidity. Cherries, raspberries and pomegranate mix well with roses, rhubarb, anise and mint. Fun, juicy, balanced, accessible but complex for the price. Aged 10 months in American oak. (88 points)  

2016 Com Tu - Spain, Catalunya, Tarragona, Montsant
SRP: $55
Rich purple color. Spicy aromatics with sage, pepper, creosote and mint, along with smoky cherries, sweet cranberry sauce, with cedar, coffee and incense. Juicy and full-bodied with suave tannins and moderating acidity, not too heavy for 15%. Raspberry and strawberry jam fruit mixes well with sweet coffee, mint, eucalyptus and pepper. The complexity is quite nice, smooth and accessible, totally delicious, but showing some complex floral, spice and earth tones. Grill-friendly stuff that packs a punch. A project from Rene Barbier Ferrer of Clos Mogador. 100% Garnacha from 35- to 50-year-old vines, aged 18 months in barrel. (90 points)  

2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $34
Light yellow color. Gorgeous nose of salted limes, apricot, pineapple, with dusty, chalky, sea spray notes. Laser-like focus on the palate, quite dry and vibrant. Juicy yellow and green apples with limes, and a complex mix of limestone, ocean spray, mountain stream and crushed shells. Such a lively, complex, balanced and age-worthy Riesling. Smith-Madrone does it again, and this vintage is a stunner for the cellar. 12.8% alcohol, about 0.7% residual sugar. (93 points)  

2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apples topped in complex notes of honey, almond, cinnamon, sea salt, hay and chalk dust. Deep texture on the palate with pretty acidity and lovely balance. Yellow apples, candied lemons, orange peel and apricot, juicy and fruity but also airy and elegant. Salty, minerals, chalky, with notes of honey, nougat and hay. Gorgeous, deep, yet vibrant. Another beautiful Chardonnay from Smith-Madrone. Barrel fermented with 80% new French oak. I’d love to age this for five years. (93 points) 

2018 Early Mountain Vineyards Soif - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $26
Deep but bright ruby color. Very pretty, juicy, fresh nose of red plums, candied cherries, bubble gum, with sweet pipe tobacco. Fresh and lively on the palate, light-bodied (12.3% alcohol) with soft tannins and zippy acidity. Plums, cherries, raspberries, super juicy but it’s also showing complex nots of earth, soy, rose potpourri and clove. So fun and delicious. An interesting semi-carbonic wine, a blend of 49% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 3% Chardonnay and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Soif means thirst in French and Early Mountain certainly made a gulpable, juicy, low tannin, crushable red in this difficult vintage. (88 points)

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

This week I have a big bundle of new releases from all over California.

Amici Cellars has been around for years, and I’ve found them to be a source of consistent, moderately-priced staples like Russian River Pinot and Napa Sauvignon Blanc. Their sister label Olema focuses on value-driven wines, and they’re quite good for the price.

Sonoma’s Jordan Winery comes through again with their Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, while Napa stalwart Shafer comes out swinging with their 2017 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay.

I also tasted a handful of wines from Morgan, which began back in 1982. Sourcing fruit from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Monterey, these wines offer lots of juicy fruit but show elegance and freshness as well. And they really deliver for the price. A few wines from FEL, Mi Sueno and Luck Rock Wine Co. round out this report.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Lucky Rock Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc County Cuvée - California

SRP: $17
Medium straw color. Aromatically popping with lemon, ruby red grapefruit, kiwi, and notes of lemongrass, magnolia and mint. Medium-bodied, fresh and zippy on the palate but some nice creaminess. A fresh fruit salad of green melon, ruby red grapefruit, peaches and lime, accented with notes of mint, wildflowers and clover. The fruit and floral/herbal tones are balanced together very nicely. A lot of personality and depth, especially for the price. Blended from Lake and Napa County fruit aged French oak. (88 points)

2017 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $18
Pale lemon color. Nose pops with lemons, limes, grapefruit and guava, along with lemongrass and mint. A nice bit of creaminess on the palate, but this is super bright and brisk with lemon, guava, melon, peaches, along with cut flower stems, white pepper, honeysuckle and clover. Fresh, zippy, fun stuff, quite complex for the price. All Musqué clone, this wine is aged five months in 10% new French oak. (87 points)

2018 Amici Cellars Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Pale straw color. The nose displays lemon curd, white peaches, mango, along with clover flower, honeysuckle and lemon verbena. Peachy, fun, fruity with lemon and mango, backed by zesty acidity. The fruit is accented with notes of lemon verbena, clover, honeysuckle, and I get some mineral and chalk dust elements. Finishes with spicy floral and honeyed tones. Includes 4% Semillon, 12% of the wine is barrel-fermented. (89 points)

2018 FEL Pinot Gris - California, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose is super peachy with limes and yellow apples, lots of flowers and green herbs. The palate is framed with zippy acidity, medium body, some creamy texture, with lemon, lime, peach fruit. Lots of flowers, white tea, chalk, stony tones, adding all sorts of complexity. It has this mineral, lifted quality that reminds me of Alto Adige, but it has this juiciness that is pure California. A really delicious and interesting Pinot Gris. (90 points)

2017 Morgan Chardonnay Metallico - California, Central Coast, Monterey 
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Aromas of peaches, lemon-lime, notes of verbena, white pepper, it’s very bright, floral and spicy. Bright acidity frames the palate nicely, this is very crisp and bright but has some nice depth of texture. Lemons, limes, peaches, topped in hay, white pepper, honeycomb and white tea. Notes of seashells and wild herbs add complexity. Fresh, fun, lean and brisk style, which is really refreshing. All stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation, 13.5% alcohol. (87 points)

2017 Morgan Chardonnay Highland - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $28

Medium yellow color. The nose shows sea spray, crushed shells, peanut shells, hay and white flowers on top of lemon crème and yellow apples. The palate boasts crisp, nervy acidity with lively, lip-smacking acidity and creamy texture. Apples, lemon curd and apricot mix nicely with salted nuts, honeycomb, white flowers. There’s a salty, crushed seashell, mountain stream essence that is so good. Balanced, lively, flavorful, so good for the money. Aged eight months in about 30% new French oak, 75% maloactic fermentation. (91 points)

2017 Amici Cellars Chardonnay Olema - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $16
Light gold color. Aromas of apricot, white peach, glazed pear, with some nougat and honeycomb elements. Medium-bodied, juicy but bright, with pleasant creaminess and moderating acidity. Glazed pears, apricot, lemon curd, and the fruit mixes with notes of sea salt, honeyed tea, almond brittle. There is a lot of vibrancy and deliciousness in here for a wine of the price. (87 points)

2016 Amici Cellars Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $25
Bright yellow color. All sorts of color and variety of apples on the nose, along with ginger, cinnamon, vanilla, nougat, some salty, oceanic notes. Plump and texturally rich but shows some restraint; it’s creamy but zesty, with bruised apple, orange marmalade and lemon pie. Notes of sea salt, crushed shells, almond skin, floral potpourri and ginger. Lots of texture and richness but it’s balanced very well. Very good Sonoma Chardonnay for the price. (89 points)

2017 Jordan Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $34
Golden yellow color. Aromas of rich yellow apples, apricot and orange marmalade, notes of salted almonds and peanuts, hay, ocean spray. A plush texture on the palate, but a lot of fresh acidity. Lemon, yellow apple, apricot, along with notes of sea salt, almond, peanut brittle, honey. All sorts of fresh, floral, salty complexities in here. Rich but balanced, a lovely Russian River Chard, especially given the moderate price. 13.6% alcohol, aged six months in 100% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Shafer Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $52

Rich gold color. Bold aromas of pineapple, honey, vanilla, almond cake, walnuts, all sorts of rich and exotic flavors but it’s fresh and vibrant too with lemon crème, apricot and glazed pears. Full-bodied on the palate (14.9% alcohol) with plenty of textural depth (honeyed, waxy elements), yet the underlying crispness and vibrancy is unmistakable. Yellow plums, bruised apples, lemon crème, mixed with walnuts, salted almonds, honey and hay. There are underlying elements of mineral notes, crushed shells, it adds all sorts of complexity. Wow. Bold yet balanced, such an expressive and complex Chardonnay. Aged 14 months in 75% new French oak and 25% stainless steel. (93 points)

Red wines

2017 Amici Cellars Pinot Noir Olema - California, Sonoma County

SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Nose boasts juicy raspberries, jammy cherries and plums, with cola, cedar, red licorice candies. Plump and juicy on the palate, a medium-bodied frame with light tannins and medium acidity. Cherries, raspberries and plums, this is fun and fruit-focused, with notes of spiced tea, cola, cedar. It’s not too rich or baked, and while super fruity, it stays food-friendly and fresh. A solid California Pinot for $20, which ain’t easy to come by. (87 points)

2017 Amici Cellars Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $40
Deep ruby color. The nose shows spiced cranberry sauce, raspberries and strawberries, along with a nice mix of rhubarb, pepper, cola and cedar. Medium/full-bodied with soft tannins and some medium acidity. Juicy cherries, raspberries, strawberry jam, with flavors of cola, rhubarb, rose potpourri, menthol and cinnamon. Accessible and fun but this has some solid depth. Highly delicious. Stainless steel fermented aged in French oak 13 months. (88 points)

2017 FEL Pinot Noir - California, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley
SRP: $38
Bright ruby color. Bold but inviting aromatic display of rose petals, violets, white pepper and clove on top of juicy raspberries and red plums. Bold but suave on the palate with velvety tannins, vibrant acidity, and lots of raspberries, red and black cherries. Fresh and bright but a lot of spicy, herbal tones (clove, pepper), and already showing some mushroom and broth and earthy tones. Juicy but elegant, this should show even more earthy, savory goodness in a few years. Loving this style. Aged 16 months in 36% new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Morgan Pinot Noir Twelve Clones - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Nose shows juicy cherries, raspberries, red plums, and a nice mix of herbal tea, tobacco, spicy pepper, rose petals. Full-bodied but fresh on the palate with smooth tannins, medium acidity and a velvety, attractive texture. Plums, cherries and strawberry jam, laced with an interesting mix of roasted red peppers, tobacco, cola, candied apple, savory broth notes. Very cool stuff with a dynamic combination of flavors. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2017 Morgan Cotes du Crow's - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Bright nose of cherries, raspberries, plums, with a lot of smoky-herbal notes, leather and violets. Full but suave on the palate with a velvety feel and refreshing acidity. Tangy plums and black cherries mixed with spiced tea, cocoa, earth, violets, clove. Juicy, fun and barbecue-friendly but complex, earthy and vibrant, too. 56% Grenache, 37% Syrah, 7% Tempranillo, aged 10 months in 10% new French oak. (88 points)

2017 Morgan Syrah G17 - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. The nose pops with tangy black cherries and dark plus, loaded with black pepper, leather, cocoa, scorched earth and graphite. Full but fresh on the palate with dusty tannins and bright acidity. Dark cherries and plums mix nicely with flavors of peppercorns, leather, cocoa, earth, and underlying notes of minerals and loamy soil. Lovely, accessible stuff, but it could also improve for a few years. Really solid value here. Includes 5% Grenache, 5% Tempranillo, aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Jordan Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $57
Medium purple color. Aromas of black cherries, plums, cassis, with roasted herbs and tobacco, and I get some coffee, menthol and mint chocolate chip notes as well. Smoothed out tannins on the palate but still nicely built, fresh acidity frames the wine well. Tangy black currants, plums and black cherries, the fruit is pure and lively, and backed up by complex notes of anise, mint, eucalyptus, earthy, tobacco and sweet vanilla. Smooth yet still young, this is coming together nicely but has many years of development ahead. Includes 15% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot; 2% Malbec, aged 13 months in 47% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Mi Sueño Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Dark purple color. Nose boasts jammy black cherries and cassis, topped in sweet vanilla coffee, anise and cocoa powder. Full and chewy but velvety with medium/low acidity on the palate, and lots of black cherries and blackberries, juicy and full fruit. Notes of cocoa, clove, coffee, vanilla and cedar. Rich and velvety and delicious but nice depth and complexity, too, with a spicy, minty finish. Should improve over the next few years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (mostly from Coombsville vineyards) aged 22 months in 65% new French oak. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.