Showing posts with label Italian whites. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italian whites. Show all posts

Thursday, May 6, 2021

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

I’m back this week with a wide-ranging mix of Italian wines. Aside from a few Piedmont wines, most of the wines in this week’s report hail from Tuscany. All these Tuscan samples are red, and they show the diversity in styles, prices and wines from this heralded region. From bargain-priced bottles for pizza and patios, to a high-end Merlot that could be a great Right Bank ringer in a blind tasting, there’s hopefully something for everyone in here.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Moscato d'Asti “La Serra” - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. A really floral nose with white flowers, perfume, along with peaches, lemon and kiwi fruit, with some sea salt tones. Juicy texture with medium/low acidity and ripe flavors of white peaches, melon and pear butter. Notes of honey, white flowers and some chalk dust add complexity. Fun, accessible stuff but has significant complexity as well. (88 points)

2017 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo “Perbacco” - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
SRP: $28
Medium ruby color. Aromas of ripe red and black cherries, cranberry jam, along with smoky earth, rhubarb, mushrooms and rose petals. Forward and fresh with high acidity and dusty tannins. A crisp appeal with red currants and cherries, laced with smoky, minty, peppery, pickling spice tones. Floral, perfume and vibrant, gets very expressive with air. Accessible but will improve with a few years as well. A whole lot of Nebbiolo goodness for the price. (90 points)

2019 Cultusboni Chianti “Cetamura” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti
SRP: $11
Medium ruby color. Ripe, fresh nose of friendly cherries and plums, along with rose petals and red licorice. Velvety tannins, fresh acidity, a zippy and fun approach to this medium-bodied, lighter-style wine. Juicy red cherries and plums play well off of floral and earth tones, hints of black tea and mint. All Sangiovese aged in stainless steel. The quality for the price on this wine is really nice. (87 points)

2019 Cultusboni Chianti “Colmaia” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti
SRP: $13
Bright ruby color. An interesting nose of spicy herbs and ripe cherries and raspberries, with some red licorice and violet tones. Velvety and inviting, bright acid, some nice structure from the tannins. Tastes authentic and lively, with black cherries and plums. Notes of violets, cola, black tea and green herbs add some complexity. Delicious, food-friendly, versatile stuff. Stainless steel Sangiovese. (88 points)

2018 Cultusboni Chianti Classico “RS” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $16
Deep ruby color. Lovely nose of smoked meats, paprika, rose petals, chestnut, over top of tangy red currants. The acidity is bright and crisp, with dusty, light tannins. Tart cranberry and spicy currants mix with notes of grilled meat, leather, black olives, earth and clay tones. Vibrant, spicy, approachable, this has a whole lot of character for a wine at this price point. Sangiovese aged in oak. (90 points)

2019 Colline San Biagio “Balè” Rosato - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $40
Medium salmon color. Bright and zippy on the nose with wild cherries and lemon zest, over top of cucumber slices, mint and chives. Chunks of orange and pineapple and tangy raspberries on the nose, along with elements of cucumber water, white pepper, some rose tea. Salty, chalky notes underneath, too. Fun, versatile rose. 85% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese. (88 points)

2018 Colline San Biagio “Vigna Toia” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Vibrant red cherries and plums on the nose, with a complex mix of pepper, tar, tobacco, dried violet petals. Full-bodied and ripe on the palate but shows some vibrancy as well. Dusty tannins meet vibrant acidity. The crunchy plums and cherry fruit is lively but deep, laced with complex graphite and stony minerals, some gravelly road, really cool earth tones that are hard to describe but delicious. Peppery, violets and clove as well. Bold, structured, but complex and a screaming value. Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in a mix of stainless steel and French oak. (88 points)

2017 Colline San Biagio “Donna Mingarda” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $60
An inviting nose of warm, mulled cherries and raspberries, with plenty of herbal and spicy tones, like tomato leaf, rose petals, cumin, white pepper – really attractive. Full-bodied with well-built but velvety tannins, showing nice grip but not harsh, moderating acidity. Tart black and red cherries, roasted figs, mixed well with complexities of chewing tobacco, rhubarb, white pepper. Really finishes well with smooth, earthy, floral tones. Needs air but this is lovely. All Sangiovese, aged 12 months in old second- and third-year French oak. (90 points)

2015 Colline San Biagio Carmignano “Sancti Blasii” - Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $80
Deep ruby color. Enticing aromas of smoky, meaty, pepperoni elements, with roses, violets, charcoal, over top of deep plums and tangy red currants. On the palate, this is full and suave with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Tart currants and black cherries, deep but really tangy fruit, and the balance and freshness are lovely. Complexities of tobacco, black pepper, violets, earth. Deep, exciting, needs a long time to show its best, but it’s integrated well already. Decant or age this for five more years. Sangiovese with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot aged 15 months in second-year French oak. (91 points)

2015 Colline San Biagio Carmignano “Quattordicisei” - Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $160
Oh, wow, this smells amazing. Evokes Bordeaux, but it is its own thing entirely. Inviting deep but vibrant red fruits, so much complexity in terms of warm clay, tobacco leaf, black pepper, rose petals, some red pepper and lavender – a lot going on. Full-bodied but so, so smooth. The balance is impeccable with dusty tannins and vibrant, crunchy acidity. Mouthwatering cherry and red currant fruit meets complexities of sandy soil, pencil shavings, mint chewing tobacco, violets. Refined already but a lot time ahead for this beautiful wine. Merlot aged in new French oak for 18 months. (93 points)

2018 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina
SRP $19
Medium ruby color. Nose shows cherries, red plums and pomegranate, along with tobacco leaf, leather, bay leaf, and some sage and violets. Impressive structure but the tannins have rounded edges and there’s nicely balanced acidity. Tangy plum and cherry fruit mixes well with elements of tobacco, loam, violets, with notes of cocoa and pencil shavings. Opens nicely with air and boasts quite a bit of complexity and balance for a sub-$20 wine. (89 points)

2018 Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino
SRP: $23
Aromas of spicy pepper, smoky earth, rose petals and cedar, over top of strawberry and plum fruit. Medium/full-bodied with dusty tannins and bright acidity. The plum and currant fruit blends with an interesting mix of tobacco, sage, pepperoni, anise and dark chocolate. It has this mineral and incense stick element, too – interesting and inviting. A fun, pizza-friendly wine but shows complexity as well. A Sangiovese, Cabernet and Petit Verdot blend that will be fun to drink over the next few years. (89 points)

2018 Aia Vecchia Toscana “Lagone” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $17
A spicy, fresh nose with tart currants, tobacco, leather and mesquite tones. Vibrant acidity, has an accessible, zesty feel with medium-dusty tannins. Black cherries, plums, tangy, fresh fruit, mixed with fun notes of graphite, loamy earth, tobacco, mint, coffee grounds. Some flinty, mineral tones. This has a lot of freshness and complexity for the price. 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2016 Villa Patrizia Montecucco Sangiovese “Istrico” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $15
Aromas of currants and cherries, mixed with cinnamon, tobacco, clove and violets. Structured surprisingly well with moderate acidity and tart black cherry and red currant fruit. Delightfully spicy with tones of clove tobacco, green herbs, pine resin and some coffee tones, too. Integrated and balanced but going well and can continue to age. (87 points)

2015 Tenuta L'Impostino Montecucco Riserva “Viandante” Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. A nice mix on the nose of rose petals, spicy pepper and oregano, with vibrant woodsy tones over bright red fruits. Vibrant acidity and refined tannins, structured and balanced well with tart red currant, raspberries and cherries. Notes of earth, tobacco pipe, gravel, beef broth and spiced tea add complexity, while nuances of coffee and dark chocolate round out the silky finish. Aging well with life ahead. (89 points)

Saturday, December 2, 2017

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week I have another catch-all report, sourced from various samples received from wine regions around the world. The stars of the show for me are the Don Melchor, which is true to form and so suave, and a killer Merlot from McLaren Vale’s Hickinbotham. Oh, and Spanish producer Arinzano makes another appearance. We also have some more budget-friendly wines from France, Spain and Italy.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2016 Achával-Ferrer Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $23
Deep ruby color. Aromas of sweet plum, black cherry, roses and violets, mocha and sage. Full-bodied on the palate with medium-light tannins and fresh acidity, this wine goes down easily. Red plums and black cherry fruit, juicy and delicious, with some tangy cranberry spiced jelly, roses, coffee and mocha notes. Accessible texture and flavors but well-built and shows impressive balance. (87 points)


2016 Wolf Blass Chardonnay Blass Reserve Release - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $15
Bright yellow color. Aromas and yellow apples, apricot, honey and butter notes, some almond and vanilla. Medium-bodied (13% alcohol) with juicy, creamy texture and medium acidity. Rich apple fruit, but there’s a shot of lively citrus, too, and notes of honey and clove. Tasty, balanced, good value here. (87 points)


2016 Wolf Blass Red Blend Blass Reserve Release - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Aromas of cola, cocoa, vanilla, on top of sweet plums, blackberry jam. On the palate, this has a plump mouthfeel, medium-body, light tannins. Black cherry and plums mix with smoky charcoal, cocoa, black pepper glaze. Rich fruit but the acidity helps it stay fresh. No grape variety info available. (87 points)


2016 Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Blass Reserve Release - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $15
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of sweet red and black currant jam, charcoal, eucalyptus, sweet coffee, mocha. On the palate soft tannins, moderate acidity, rich and fruity but fresh. Full of black cherries, raspberry jam, cola, mocha. Accessible and fun but maintains some depth and complexity for the price point. (87 points)


2014 Hickinbotham Merlot The Revivalist - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Crimson color. Unbelievable nose of gushing red and black currants and plums, such depth and purity of fruit with notes of sweet roses, menthol, eucalyptus, cola, cigar box. Full but suave on the palate with surprisingly crisp acidity that keeps the wine fresh, with waves of red cherries and gushing blackberries. Complex notes of cola, violets, charcoal, sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus. Gorgeous, velvety, fresh, vibrant now but this will be even better with 5-7 years. All Merlot aged 15 months in French oak. (94 points)


2014 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto
SRP: $125
Bold purple color. Gorgeous aromatic complexity with tart black currants, black cherries, loamy soil, a host of sweet and spicy herbs (lavender, rosemary, black pepper, elements of graphite and smashed rocks. Bold presence on the palate with grippy tannins, lively acidity, such balance and depth in this wine. Crisp black cherry, juicy plums, blackberry, the fruit is bold but vibrant. Earthy, charcoal, black tea, mocha. Beautiful stuff but will be even better in 10 years. Wow, what a gorgeous wine. The 2013 is showing well young while this vintage sleeps. Tar, mocha, cedar and vanilla woven in well. Includes a combined 10% Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and the wine is aged 50% new French oak. (94 points)


N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Yellow color. Aromas of floral perfume along with almonds, apricots, lemon curd and limestone dust. Crisp and zippy, so focused, with a brisk and mineral-heavy presence. Lemon, orange, grapefruit mixed with toasted nuts, chalky minerals, saline. Good depth but a racier, fresher style. About 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, 6 g/l dosage. (90 points)


N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne La Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Aromas of buttered biscuits, salted almond, chalk dust, on top of baked yellow apple and quince paste. Nervy acidity frames the palate nicely, with flavors of apple, lemon curd and apricot blend with notes of buttercream, fresh biscuits, bread crumbs. Elements of white flowers, chalk dust and minerals add complexity. Creamy but so zesty, with impressive depth for a Champagne at this price. 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier, aged four years, contains about 30% reserve wine. (89 points)


2007 Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Light gold color. Zesty aromas of lemon, apple, apricot, chalk dust and sea spray, mixed with biscuits, salted almonds, some honeycomb. Lovely creaminess, brisk acidity, precision is impressive. Lemon curd, green and yellow apple, apricot pits, with elements of yellow flowers, cut stems, chalk dust, saline, toasted baguette and flaky biscuits. Delicious now but will evolve nicely over the next few years. 50/50 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sourced from all Grand Cru vineyards and aged seven years on the lees before disgorgement. (91 points)


2015 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage La Matinière - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
SRP: $23
Dark plummy color. Smoky and full of charred herbs and earth, along with sweet plums and black cherries. Medium-bodied with some medium/soft tannins. Juicy black cherries and plums mixed with peppercorns, charcoal smoke, some eucalyptus. Tasty, lighter style for near-term consumption. (87 points)


2015 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $14
Bold purple color. Nose of tart black cherries, red currants, smoky herbs, spicy pepper and violets. Full-bodied with some surprising grip to the tannins, medium-low acidity. Tangy black currants and red cherries with notes of charred herbs, cedar, mint, pine resin. Super fun stuff that has some interesting complexity for a wine at this price point. (88 points)


2016 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. Aromas of white flowers, sea breeze, clean laundry, on top of green apples and peaches. Pleasantly waxy texture but bright acidity, nice balance, and I get papaya and green apples drizzled with lime. Notes of chalk dust, dandelion, cut flower stems. Delicious, crisp, a reliable buy each vintage. Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu. (87 points)


2016 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Rouge - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
SRP: $15
Bright purple color. Smells of old black cherries, plums, gushing fruit, mixed with sweet violets, roses, sweet coffee and rich earth. Plump and juicy on the palate but some medium tannins and fresh acidity keeps it together well. Smoky charcoal and grilled herbs accent the chewy plums and black cherry fruit. I get notes of violets, loamy soil, clove. Lots going on here for the price. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. (88 points)


2015 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem - France, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Deep, complex, savory aromas, with black cherries and dark plums, laced with smoky herbs, leather, mushroom and fallen leaves. Full-bodied with serious grip on the tannins but the acidity frames it well, and the black cherry and dark plum fruit is rich but tangy. Tons of earthy-mineral, clove, spice, leather, black olive, charcoal – complex and savory and delicious, this has a lot to show in the cellar. Consistently one of the best $30 red blends I find coming out of Southern France, and this vintage is no different. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. (92 points)


2016 Kellerei Bozen Kerner - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Aromas of peaches, apricot, lychee, orange blossom and honeysuckle. Plump but crisp on the palate with a medium+ body (14% alcohol), fresh lemon, apricot and lychee fruit. Notes of white tea, chalk, salt mineral notes. Not a lot of depth but quite nice. (87 points)


2014 Cantina Andriano Lagrein Tor di Lupo Riserva - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Aromatic waves of tart black currants, blackberry, dark and spicy with notes of smashed rocks, anise, spiced black tea. Lively acidity and tight tannic grip frame the palate nicely for the tart black currant and roasted fig fruit. Notes of charcoal, black tea, rocks, minerals, anise. This is spicy, complex but pretty stuff. I’d love to cellar this for five years, but it’d also be a great addition to any dinner table now. (91 points)


2016 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Tascante Buonora - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. So pretty on the nose with lots of peach and pineapple, lemon, along with wildflowers, onion grass, and salty sea breeze. Medium-bodied with a creamy texture supported by bright acidity, with generous helpings of sliced pineapple and green melon drizzled with lime. Notes of seashells and chalk dust and lemon verbena, lovely mineral depth. Plenty of fruit and non-fruit complexity to make it delicious and accessible but serious and worthy of some dynamic food pairings. Made from 100% Carricante. (90 points)


2014 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Tascante Ghiaia Nera - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $20
Gorgeous cherry color. Wow, beautiful depth of fruit (red cherry, cranberry, wild raspberry), along with rose petals, chewing tobacco, mint, white pepper. Medium-bodied with nice grip to the tannins, fresh acidity, and lots of tart black and red fruits. Complex elements of leather, spiced coffee, rose petals, chewing tobacco and clove. (88 points)


2014 Tasca D'Almerita Nerello Mascalese il Tascante - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $50
Red cherry color. Bright red cherries, tart red cranberries, lots of clove and earthy spice and leather, with some rose petals and cola. Bright and zippy but some serious grip to the tannins, on a medium-bodied frame. Bright and tart red cherries and cola with spicy herbs and clove and pepper. Really tasty stuff with fun appeal, but impressive complexity, too. Delicious now but this will improve for quite some time. (91 points)


2016 Bodegas As Laxas Rías Baixas Laxas - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $16
Medium gold color. Nose shows peaches and lemons with sea salt and cut flower stems. Creamy but super zesty with flavors of peach, apricot and papaya, topped with flavors of floral perfume, nettle and honeysuckle. Fun, lively stuff. (86 points)


2016 Santiago Ruiz Albariño Rías Baixas - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $19
Pale lemon color. Aromas of peaches, orange blossom, sea salt, cucumber and rainwater. Zesty on the palate with pleasant creaminess, and delicious flavors of sea salt, white flowers, chalk, sliced cucumber, on top of lemons, white peaches and nectarines. Lovely stuff, goes down easy, but quite complex as well. (89 points)


2010 Arinzano Arinzano La Casona - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano
SRP: $40
Rich ruby color. Beautiful aromas of bright red and black cherries, crunchy plums, laced with cocoa, cedar, forest floor, clay pots, chewing tobacco. Full and tannic on the palate but lively acidity lends balance to this young wine. Sweet cherries, dark plums, currants, the fruit is loaded with cocoa, chewing tobacco, eucalyptus, charcoal, and a long, lingering, mineral-laden finish. Still very young with a long life ahead but can show well now with a good decant. 75/25 Tempranillo/Merlot. (92 points)


2012 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano
SRP: $20
Bold purple color. Nose is packed with currants and plums, complex elements of incense, charcoal, clay pots, cigar smoke, violets. Grippy tannins, serious structure, but acidity stays fresh, balance is on point. Plums and currants, bold fruit but mixed with complex elements of earth, eucalyptus, pepper, fallen leaves, spicy tobacco. Concentrated but lively with a long life ahead. Tempranillo with 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stellar for the price. (92 points)


2017 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Nose shows explosive grapefruit, lime, bell pepper and honeysuckle. Zesty acidity on the palate with all the classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc elements firing: grapefruit, lime, white peach, jalapeno and bell pepper. I get some clove and white pepper elements as well. A reliably fun example of this style. (86 points)


2016 Kim Crawford Pinot Noir - New Zealand, South Island
SRP: $19
Medium ruby color. Aromas of spicy red cherries and wild raspberries, along with rhubarb, tobacco and white pepper. Light tannins on the palate, bright acidity, this is a fresh, zesty, food-friendly style with lots of fresh cherries, raspberries, red apple peel. Notes of spicy green herbs, white pepper and tobacco leaf. Reliable, easy-drinking, tasty stuff. (87 points)

<85 points


2016 Abbazia di Novacella (Stiftskellerei Neustift) Müller-Thurgau - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Valle Isarco/Eisacktaler
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemons, limes, peaches, flower stems and quinine. Salty and brisk on the palate with tart lemon and under-ripe apricot fruit. Tart, light, underwhelming and watery with a short finish. Pass.


N.V. Delia Tempranillo - Spain
SRP: $7
Medium ruby color. Aromas of spicy red cherries, raspberry leaf, tobacco and dandelion greens. Light/medium-bodied with bright acid and lean tannins. Sour cherries and raspberries blend with tobacco and some coffee. Good for the price but simple and slightly out of whack.


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Welcoming Zachy's to DC with an Epic Tuscany Tasting

Zachy’s (the Scarsdale, New York-based fine wine purveyor and auction house) has opened up shop in Washington, DC, and I am so stoked.

The new location is a massive facility located on V Street NE, and it will offer wine storage service in a huge, cold warehouse. You’ll be able to purchase wine at the facility, and through email offers. There’s a great tasting room that will be used for all sorts of trade tastings, wine classes, and auction parties.

A good buddy of mine, Tim O’Rourke, is working on this project, and there really is no better person for the job. All the details and events are still very much coming together, but the future looks bright for this venture. And it’s a huge win for DC, Maryland, Virginia-area wine-lovers such as myself.

I recently stopped by to check out the facility and taste through a serious lineup of Tuscan wines. Even though they had been open for only two days, things were pristine. The service was on point and, most importantly, the wines were stunning.

Here are my notes on some killer Tuscan wines.


2016 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Maremma Toscana Poggio Argentato - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana
$25
Floral, peach nose. Tangy and spicy with flowers and peaches and spicy floral tones. Fun, dry, delicious. A Gewurz-based blend. (88 points)


2016 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Maremma Toscana RosaMati - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana
$23
Super floral aromatics. Brisk, spicy, tart, watermelon plumpness as well, slightly earthy. An all Syrah rose. (87 points)


2012 Tenuta Greppo (Biondi-Santi) Rosato Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$80
Interesting copper orange color. Red apples, spiced herbal tea nose. Interesting stuff, tangy, chalky, some honeyed and slight nut characteristics but still vibrant fruit. Not often do I find an aged rose I really like to drink, but this is one. The “current” release and it rocks. (90 points)


2015 Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG$20
Red fruits and spice on the nose. Structured quite well with smooth, dry tannins and fresh acid. Juicy and tangy red fruit with tar, anise, pepper notes. Really solid for the price, shows what quality 2015 offers even in the entry-level. (89 points)


2013 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
$60
Lots of cigar smoked and leather on the nose with earthy black cherries. Rich tannins, dry but fresh acidity, which I love, balanced nicely with plum and black cherries, notes of spiced tea and pepper. Lovely. (91 points)


2013 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$90
Lots of roses, eucalyptus, spiced tea, rich earth, tart black cherries and plums. Rich texture but velvety, bright acidity frames it so well, lots of delicious black cherry fruit, laced with herbs and spices. Young but very, very good. (92 points)


2015 Tenuta San Guido Le Difese - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$35
Plums, leather, tobacco, herbs on the nose. Accessible on the palate but shows some good structured tannins, bright acidity, plums and cherries and tobacco and spices, all wrapped up quite nicely. (89 points)


2004 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
$160
Gorgeous aromatics, cedar, silky red and black fruit, roses, violets. Still so young with firm tannins but some moderating acidity. Black cherries and tart blueberries mix well with tar, charcoal and cigar smoke. Lovely stuff with many more years ahead. (93 points) 

2010 E. Fuligni (Cottimelli) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
$190
Amazing nose of tangy red fruits, rose petals, rhubarb, pepper, soy. Velvety but structured, zesty but rich, waves of red and hints of black fruit along with cigar shop, incense sticks, roses, tilled soil. The mouthfeel on this is just so amazing, despite the complexity of flavors and total deliciousness, the elegance and balance of this wine makes it next level excellent. (95 points)


2015 Monastero Campanaio - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$55
Jammier approach with plums and raspberry jam, cocoa and violets. Silky, velvety, but some surprisingly fresh acidity. Sweet red fruits and violets and coffee. Fun, approachable stuff. 50/50 Cab/Merlot. (89 points)


2015 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$55
Bright but some saucy fruit on the nose, too, with plums and cola. Velvety, violets, cedar, plump and a bit chewy but balanced with freshness. Cabernet and Merlot. (88 points)


2015 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$35
Plummy, rich, baked black fruit on the nose. Really saucy on the palate with silky tannins, medium-low acidity, chunky black fruits, some violets, cola and cedar. Well-made, tastes so polished, I could see this being a big hit. (88 points)


2014 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia
$230
Wow, this is drinking really well. Considering the vintage, I wasn’t expecting anything classic, but this is a fresher, more vibrant, early-drinking version, but still of very high quality. Bright floral and red berry tones on the nose. Silky, tangy, vibrant palate with bright red currants and cherries, lots of pepper and spices and sage. Not lean, but quite elegant, and it goes down easily. (93 points)


2013 Marchesi Mazzei “Philip” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$45
Aromas of tangy red berries. Velvety, rich but vibrant palate with sweet floral, coffee, earth and vanilla notes to accent the black cherry and plum skins. (90 points)


2013 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$140
Lifted aromatics of bright red fruits and roses, very bright. High-toned, tangy, zesty even, with brisk red fruits but so delicious, laced with dusty earth, rhubarb, coffee. So good now, so good on the table, but this will also age nicely for at least a decade. Merlot and Sangiovese. (91 points) 


2013 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Maremma Toscana Saffredi - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana
$110

Christ, this wine blew me away! I had never heard of this producer before, but I’m listening now. Gorgeous waves of red fruits on the nose along with tobacco, leather, incense. Structured so well but vibrant and refreshing, the mouthfeel is so pure and focused. Cherries and velvety plums with lots of leather, sage, tobacco, mint, rhubarb – so much to unpack for many years in the cellar. (96 points)

In a lineup of gems, the Geppetti Safredi was incredible.
2013 Antinori Solaia Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$300

A bit dense but a lot to unpack aromatically: plum cake, violets, black cherry, leather, coffee, dark chocolate shavings. Rich, saucy and velvety at the same time but not too heavy, it shows freshness, too. Sweet plums and cherries laced with violets, cocoa, loamy earth, cedar, warm clay – wow. Delicious now but will do wonders over the next 10-15. (94 points)

2015 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
$105

Lots of aromatics: roses, violets, plums, rich black cherries, smoke. Chewy and bold but balanced, shows plums and black currants with cola, coffee, cocoa, anise, cedar – rich in flavor but nuanced and suave as well. Obviously a long time ahead. (93 points)

Friday, July 14, 2017

Uncovering Collio's Gems With Venica & Venica

Venica & Venica's estate vineyards in Collio, Italy. Credit: Venica & Venica.
Venica & Venica’s story begins in 1930, when Austrian-born Daniele Venica purchased a small house and property in Dolegna del Collio, in north-eastern Italy. After the ravages of World War 2, he and his son Adelchi worked together to buy up neglected vineyards.

Today, they maintain estate vineyards spread across a 70-acre estate, allowing varieties of local and international grapes to thrive. Adelchi’s sons, Gianni and Giorgio, carry on the tradition by producing wines that show freshness, minerality, and demand a spot on a table surrounded by food. I couldn’t find an unexciting wine in the bunch, and a few are shockingly good.

I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.


2016 Venica & Venica Collio Sauvignon Ronco del Cerò - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Popping aromas of white peaches, lime, nectarine, so bright with honeysuckle, lemon verbena, chalk dust, oregano. Medium-bodied palate with a pleasantly plump texture and lip-smacking acidity. Limes, white peaches, apricot, zesty fruit complemented by honey, floral perfume, chalk dust. Plush texture but crisp, packed with depth and complexity. (90 points)

2016 Venica & Venica Collio Sauvignon Ronco delle Mele - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
SRP: $49
Medium yellow color. Deeper, more concentrated nose than the Ronca del Cero, but opens up to show orange, lime, apricot, lots of crushed chalk, mountain streams, limestone dust and nettle. Plush texture but focused acidity, ripe and juicy fruit (lime, apricot, some richer mango, too) but it stays so fresh. Notes of raw almond, honeycomb, mineral, mountain stream, the complexity is really impressive. From a single vineyard planted in 1983. Wow. (91 points)

2016 Venica & Venica Collio Pinot Grigio Jesera - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
SRP: $21
A beautiful light copper color in the glass. Nose shows nettle, honeysuckle, oregano, chalk dust, on top of lemon and orange pith. Rich textural depth on the palate but crisp acidity, the wine is balanced with plump orange and peach fruit, drizzled with lime. Salty, spicy notes, lots of wildflower and wild grass elements, hints of almond and honeyed tea. This is absolutely delicious but also shows a lot of depth and complexity. Not your normal Pinot Grigio, this is something else — and it’s awesome. (90 points)

2016 Venica & Venica Collio Friulano - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
SRP: $38
Light gold color. Lemon pith, orange peel, crushed chalk, white pepper, green onion, sweet floral perfume, there is a lot going on aromatically. Fresh acidity keeps the wine tangy, but plump fruit (papaya, pear) mixes with bitter lemon and lime, and there are lots of complex elements of white flowers, wild grass, chalk dust, honeycomb, graham cracker – a lot of fascinating and vibrant flavors in here, and there’s a crisp, lingering sense of minerals and lip-smacking acidity on the finish. An excellent take on this indigenous white grape, done expertly. (91 points)

2015 Venica & Venica Collio Merlot - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
SRP: $16
Bright ruby color. Smells like tart red and black cherries, highly complex notes of tobacco, rose hips, graphite, wet forest floor, incense sticks. Vibrant acidity on the palate, nice grip from the tannins, this is a food-friendly but structured medium-bodied wine. Tart black and red cherries are laced with rose petals, tobacco, black pepper, soy. Lovely balance, the freshness is key but this wine has a lot of depth. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, April 9, 2016

Good, Cheap Italian Wine is an Awesome Thing


$12 Italian wines — it’s a minefield I rarely enter on my own choosing. See, as a 21-year-old, I spent way too much of my hard-earned dough searching for good Chianti and Pinot Grigio for $10 to $15.

I was living in Brooklyn and, having grown up on the Jersey Shore, random bottles of cheap Italian wine was the natural place to go. Now that I was pulling down decent cash at Kinko’s, and saving money by sleeping in an illegally-rented basement in Brighton Beach, I had some extra money for the first time in my life. So I spent a lot of it on cheap Italian wine. Surely those classy-looking bottles at the corner store would be delicious and pair well with my homemade eggplant parm — right?

Bueller?
 
For a while, I wondered if something was wrong with me. Why were these wines so lifeless?

Look, there are plenty of decent, inexpensive Italian wines. But the bottles you see on every shelf and grocery store (with the kitschy labels and castles and Renaissance sketches) these wines can be so boring you’ll wish you bought grain alcohol and grape juice.

But, like in most every wine-producing country, someone, somewhere is producing wine on the cheap worth getting excited about. These usually hail from the lesser-heralded regions, from grapes you may not be familiar with, and — damnit — Safeway may not carry them.

But if you find the good ones, it’s worth the effort. Trust me.

I was recently impressed with the overall quality of this Vento Di Mare brand of wines from Sicily. For $12 a pop, I’d gladly buy up any of these wines to open at big family gatherings.

Actually, I tested these wines out on my family. I tasted through the Vento Di Mare lineup before my Ma was passing through town on her way to a sister’s weekend in PA. After tasting and writing about these wines, I sent the bottles with her so she and my four aunts could enjoy them. They drank these wines with charcuterie, cheese and crackers, veggies and dip, baked ziti, ravioli — you get the idea. The next week, I got a postcard, signed from all of my aunties. “We loved those wines! They made the food and fellowship so much better!”

See? This is what I was looking for when I was scouring shelves for cheap-o-vino. Wines that cost little money, but were delicious with food and enjoyed by everyone at the table. 

If you’re looking for something like that, you may want to seek out Vento Di Mare.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Vento Di Mare Grillo Organic Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $12
Smells of lemon, green apple, green melon and slight grassy note. Medium bodied, moderate acid, a freshness to the wine with a bit of creaminess to go along. Sliced green apples mix with a bit of pineapple. Hints of green grass and cut floral stems as well. (85 points)

2014 Vento Di Mare Grillo Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $12
Lime, sliced apple, a bit richer melon notes with a hint of chalk. Fresh and vibrant with a salty aspect to the lime, green apple and pineapple notes. Slight spice and grass note on a fresh finish. A bright and clean, easy-sipping wine that’s good for the price. (85 points)

2014 Vento Di Mare Pinot Grigio Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $12
Bright, floral and peach aromatics, some honeysuckle as well. Smooth, slightly creamy but some bright acid. Tart green apples mix with creamy peaches, and the wine shows some floral spice and honeyed tea. Not super complex, but quite balanced and impressive for the price. (85 points)

SRP: $12
Slightly brighter aromatics than the regular bottling, still peachy and full of honeysuckle, but some lime and chalky elements as well. Clean and crisp with lively acid. Limes, green apples and white peaches topped with honeysuckle, lemon zinger tea and a hint of chalk. Interesting comparison to the regular bottling, this one shows a bit more zip. What a value for $12, more interesting than the vast majority of Veneto Pinog Grigios at this price point. (87 points)

2013 Vento Di Mare Nerello Mascalese Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $12
Medium ruby colored. Smells of red plums and raspberries with a hefty dose of pepper, leather and bloody steak. Juicy texture on the palate, light tannic structure, moderate acid. A good introduction to this variety, with simple flavors of strawberry, raspberry and red plum, backed up by notes of smoke, roasted chestnut and black pepper. Drink now. (85 points)

2013 Vento Di Mare Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $12
Deep ruby colored. Juicy red cherries raspberries, along with a fun mix of tobacco, black pepper and roses. Fleshy red fruits, medium-dusty tannins, bright acid. Juicy raspberries and strawberries mixed in with black pepper, roasted chestnut and coffee. It’s a bright and approachable wine but showing some good structure. (86 points)

SRP: $12
Deep ruby colored. Smells of tart red currants and bright raspberries, along with spiced coffee and rose hips. Medium-bodied with some moderate tannic structure and medium acid. Juicy blackberry and tart raspberry fruit, which is tossed together with some pepper, tobacco and roasted coffee. An interesting floral and earthy note lingering on the finish. Great pizza wine for the price, that’s for sure. (87 points)

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

The Sudtirol appellation of Alto Adige is home to some seriously good Pinot Grigio.
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

A lot of wine-lovers are skeptical about Pinot Grigio, and rightly so. All of us have been thoroughly bored by insipid Pinot Grigios from various Northern Italian regions. But, like every large production category of wines, there are producers taking it seriously. For around $20, producers in Alto Adige are crafting some really bright and compelling wines —three such wines from the 2014 vintage appear in this report.

Add in an exciting Soave Classico for $20, the ever-reliable Veronese red blend Palazzo Della Torre, and a few others, and you have yourself a good spread of Italian bottles.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.



2014 St. Pauls Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $24
Pale straw color. A bit more tropical aromatics here (papaya, guava) on top of limes, fresh flowers and salty air. Waxy feel on the palate but precise acid. Orange peel and papaya flavors, drizzled with lime, topped with honey and peanut shells. An underlying sense of chalk, jetty rocks and mineral. (87 points)


2014 Cantina Produttori Bolzano Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $17
Deeper straw color. Aromas of lime pith, green apple peel, cut flower stems, hints of cucumber water. Bold presence on the palate with a creamy texture but the acid screams across the palate, this is a very lip-smacking white but by no means lean. Crunchy green fruit, also very chalky and smoky with white tea, chamomile and cucumber. Long, zesty finish with lingering sea salt and lemon meringue. Amazing stuff for the price. (89 points)


2014 Muri-Gries Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $19
Pale straw color. Smells of clean laundry, bright limes, kiwi, green apple, breezy air and white flowers. Crisp and clean on the palate but a nice silky mouthfeel. Bright and zesty with nuanced kiwi, tangerine and lime fruits. Notes of quinine, white tea, saline and a smoky-mineral touch. Bright and zesty but enough texture and structure to make it pop on the palate. Medium-long finish. Exciting, versatile stuff. (88 points)


2014 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $20
Medium yellow color. Refreshing and floral on the nose, I get cut flower stems, honeysuckle, crusty sea salt, lemon peel, green pears. Bright acid on the palate, a very clean and precise wine with a moderate amount of creaminess. Green pears and lemon/lime fruit abound. So delightfully gluggable but I’m impressed with the complexity. Lots of minerals, chalk, floral and spice potpourri, almond skin. Lovely stuff that is sure to please all kinds of palates (and wallets). 85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano, 12% alcohol. (88 points)


2012 Inconceivable Wines Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $25
Juicy ruby color. Smell of rich red berries and plums along with roasted earth, baking spices and tobacco. Medium-full bodied with some refreshing tartness and legit structure from the tannins, which all combines for a chewy but tangy feel. Tart black cherries and red currants mix with elements of green coffee, raspberry tea, sweet cocoa and some dusty, earthy accents. Impressive structure but also straight-up fun and tasted. A bit modern with its oak and velvety feel but plenty of savory Sicilian elements, too. 50% Nero d'Avola, 30% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Frappato, aged 18 months in half French, half American oak. (88 points)


2011 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $23
Bright ruby color. Aromatic right away with juicy black and red currants and plums, the fruit is tart but juicy and I get an interesting mix of eucalyptus, smoke, cocoa powder and balsamic aromas as well, and it all works together very well. Juicy red and black fruit on the palate, this takes a smooth approach with a dusty-fine tannic structure and medium-plus acid. Lots of spice elements to unpack (pepper, rhubarb, balsamic) with some sweeter notes of caramel and coffee. Always reliable, tasty and good for the money. 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese. Great value, as is usually the case with this wine. (88 points)


2010 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
SRP: $85
A compact wine out of the bottle, but air and time coax out all sorts of deep, roasted, dark essences — blackberry-currant jam, dark chocolate shavings, dried violets, cocoa powder. On the palate, this is a full and surly wine with tight-fisted concentration and strong dark fruit (roasted plums, tart black currants, dense blackberry). Sturdy tannins, medium-low acid, a bold and demanding presence on the palate. Despite the richness it maintains a velvety quality that is really attractive. I get dark chocolate and roasted nut notes along with some violets, smoke and tilled up soil. A long, warm finish, rich but so smooth. It’s very impressive at this young age, but the realization of its full quality is a decade away. 90% Corvina, 5% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta, 15.9% alcohol. (90 points)

<85 points

2014 Criterion Collection Friuli Grave Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Grave
SRP: $11
Pale yellow color. Nose of juicy white peaches, kiwi and pineapple, some baby’s breath. Medium-light bodied with a pleasantly creamy texture, medium-low acid. Yellow apple, sliced peaches, some mango, but not much else. Simple, pleasant, uncomplicated. (83 points)


2011 Criterion Collection Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $14
Medium ruby color. Tart currants, cranberry sauce, rose hips and toast on the nose. Tart acid, light tannins, a bit crunchy and overly tart but shows a nice range of red fruits (red currants, Thanksgiving cranberry sauce) backed up with notes of tobacco, toasted nut and soil. Perfectly pleasant and shows well for the price, a simple wine to drink in the near term. (83 points)

Sunday, August 9, 2015

Bargain-Hunting with Italian White Wines

Italian white wines get less love. Sure there are great white wines, many with correspondingly high price points, but it’s not always easy finding tasty but memorable vino bianco for relatively little money. 

There are plenty of cheap wines, but most of them are forgettable. I’m not saying any of these wines will change your life, but at $8-$23 a bottle, there’s a lot of summery goodness to be found in Italy’s white wines.

N.V. La Marca Prosecco - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $17
Floral nose with white peaches and honey and spiced tea. Spritzy and lively on the palate, with flavors of white peach, guava nectar, hint of honey, moderate sweetness but still clean and refreshing. Balanced but not cloying, no bitterness. (86 points)

N.V. Cantine Maschio Prosecco di Treviso Brut - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Treviso
SRP: $12
Very pale lemon color. Aromas of white peaches, orange and cherry blossoms, very floral and bright. Refreshing cut on the palate, but a creamy appeal, with juicy white peach, green grapes and green melon fruit. Some white floral and orange blossom notes. Bright and zesty, slight floral sweetness. Fun, uncomplicated stuff. (86 points)

2014 Aia Vecchia Vermentino Maremma Toscana - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana)
SRP: $12
Pale straw color. Nose of tart green apples, lemon peel, straw. Tangy and bright, some creaminess to the body, a bit of a waxy feel. Tart green melon and apples, some lemon, notes of cucumber water and floral potpourri. I like the sea salt and hint of mineral as well. Solid stuff for the price. (86 points)

SRP: $8
Medium yellow color. Fairly neutral aromatics (white peach, some green melon rind), hints of faint honeysuckle and lemon peel. Creamy body, bright acid, flavors of green melon, yellow apple, lemon pith, white tea and honeycomb elements. Good weight on the palate. Not complicated, but very refreshing. For $8, a solid summer sipper with salads and grill-outs. 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, 30% Trebbiano, 10% Greco, 10% Malvasia del Lazio. (85 points)

2013 Donnafugata Lighea Sicilia IGT - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia IGT
SRP: $23
A tropical fruit salad on the nose, with honeysuckle and lychee and lime drizzled on top. Crisp on the palate, with tingling acid, lots of papaya, melon and white peaches. Some herbal and white flower notes, white tea, river stones and saline. Dry, crisp, complex, begging for all sorts of Mediterranean food. A dry Zibibbo (Muscat d’Alexandria). (88 points)

SRP: $25
Pale yellow color. Bright and clean on the nose, white and orange flowers, white peaches, some lime and papaya. Creamy body, generously textured, crisp acid keeps it clean. A bright personality but some complexity of fruit flavors (lime, peach, green pear, papaya) mixed in with honeysuckle, green tea and chalky elements. Crisp, clean, moderately long finish, summer and food friendly but some interesting aspects to think about as well. (87 points)

2013 Rocca Sveva Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $15
Medium lemon colored, a slight spritz in the glass. Smells like the fresh laundry, with lavender, white flowers and cotton on top of some lemon and green apple. On the palate, medium bodied, crisp acid, this is a juicy and fresh wine. The green apple and lime fruit is crunchy and tangy, backed up by some honey and lemon tea. Fun stuff. (85 points)

SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Fresh and clean on the nose, with lavender, white lilies, lemon peel, some kiwi, cucumber water. Medium bodied with fresh acid and a slightly creamy mouthfeel. Flavors of green melon, kiwi and lemon pith mix with notes of river stones and green herbs, a bit of fresh laundry notes. Just a hint of minerality, which lingers on the finish. (87 points)

2014 Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio - Italy, Venezie IGT
SRP: $14
Medium straw color. Smells like kiwi, guava nectar, white flowers. Medium bodied, medium-low acidity, a clean and simple appeal with lime zest, guava and yellow and white flowers. Not thrilling, but a good summer sipper. (83 points)