California New Releases: Cabs and Chards

Folks don’t seem to agree on much these days. There’s a lot of division out there. But I like to think the vast majority of wine-consuming Americans can agree on this – California Cabernet and Chardonnay are great. They’re classics for a reason.

And this week I’m focusing on some new releases from well-known California producers that deliver. Most of the wines are widely-available, and there’s a lot of value in here as well. And, these days, that matters a lot.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 La Crema Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. A dark but vibrant and spicy aromatic display, with black currants and plums, mixed with anise, tobacco, black pepper, some graphite, and iron, dried violets as well. The palate sports smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, with pleasantly ripe currants, blackberries, and blueberries. The fruit blends nicely with elements of graphite, minerals, mocha, tobacco, and cedar nuances. A rich but elegant blend of fruit from Alexander Mountain and Valley, Dry Creek, and Bennet Valleys. A beauty for the upcoming colder weather, as it’s drinking great now. (91 points)

2021 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Bold purple color. Exotic aromas of plum sauce, red and black currants, fig paste, with cool tones of eucalyptus, mint, chewing tobacco, along with some stony earth and mulch. The palate shows suave tannins, moderate acidity, and juicy, tangy fruits (blueberries, black cherries, figs). The fruit is accented by tones of mint, fallen leaves, black pepper, eucalyptus, and some earthy-stony tones. Classic vibes, lots to love, this is fun but complex and a great way to dive into Stag’s Leap Cabernet. (92 points)

2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $65
Vibrant purple color. Beautifully deep and complex aromatic display – I get roasted figs, dark plums, black cherries and currants, so tangy and vibrant, along with clay and loam, clove, pepper, creosote, black tea. The palate shows structured but fine-grained tannins, met nicely with bright acidity for a refreshing and balanced appeal. The black and red currant fruit, blueberries, and plum fruit shows depth and tanginess. All sorts of non-fruit nuances are packed in here (charcoal, minerals, cedar, tobacco, mint, black pepper, black tea) but will need time in the cellar to show their full potential. Love the tangy, mineral and earth-laden finish. This is beautiful now but needs some serious TLC (time laying in cellar) to express itself fully. At the price, and given the aging potential, this is a crazy value. Includes some Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this wine spends18 months in 65% new French oak. (94 points)

2023 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $25
Deep yellow with a nose of juicy peaches, green and yellow apples, nectarines, backed up by notes of hay, honeycomb, along with a cool mix of cornbread and almond butter, with a hint of minerals. Pleasantly creamy with fresh acidity and a yummy mix of yellow apples, bruised pears, white peaches, and orange creamsicle. I get notes of bread crumbs, whipped honey, and some refreshing mineral tones as well. (88 points)

2023 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Russian River Ranches - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $31
Rich yellow color. The nose shows a rich mix of white peaches, yellow apple, orange peel, along with scents of white tea, honey, some clove and mint. The palate is plush and bold but shows moderating acidity, with a delicious fruit salad of nectarine, yellow apples, papaya, white peach. The fruit is accented with notes of lemon pie with graham cracker crust, almond skin, mixed with welcomed nuances of chalk dust, minerals, and slate. Yummy, fresh, sporting solid complexity. (91 points)

California and Oregon wines for giving and holiday celebrations

It’s that rush before the holidays when things are crazy and time seems to fly by. There’s so much to do and plan, and wine-buying shouldn’t be an added stress. So, this week I have a group of wines from producers I think would make great gifts or bottles to open with your friends and family this holiday season.

I’m focusing on California and Oregon, from two producers I’ve known and respected for a while, to a new (to me) producer from a well-known region. In the spirit of giving and thankfulness, I’ve chosen producers I think make a solid effort toward environmental stewardship, and delicious wines.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Halter Ranch

I have such fond memories of visiting Paso Robles. The place is beautiful, the people welcoming, and the wines – it’s just an embarrassment of riches. The diversity of grapes is impressive – whether the Bordeaux classics, or Italian varieties blended together in all shapes and sizes, to Spanish grapes that fit various nooks and crannies in the Paso terroir. Lots of little gems pop up if you go looking. There’s a real, true-blue feel to a lot of the winemakers, and it seems evident in a lot of wines. They’re not showy for the sake of it, they’re clear expressions of intent, style, and place. And whatever style you’re into, I bet you can find a cool expression somewhere in the larger Paso Robles region.

Take this new-to-me producer, Halter Ranch. I thought I had a pretty good understanding of a lot of the producers here, but I somehow missed this one. I’m glad that has been rectified. Halter Ranch tends to 200 acres of organic vineyards, walnuts, and olives. Sheep graze (and fertilize) the vineyard in classic fashion. And proprietor Hansjörg Wyss and winemaker Kevin Sass make at least 15 different expressions or blends from 20 different varieties of west-side Paso fruit. Looking at their lineup, there’s a lot piques my interest. These wines offer an enticing look at what these folks are doing.

2022 Halter Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $43
Light copper color. A beautiful nose of yellow apples, white peach, orange peels, with nuances of sea salt, crunchy limestone, white tea – deep but it has this airy, breezy complexity, too. The palate is crisp and bright on a medium-bodied frame with some lovely depth of texture. The flavors of white peach, lemon curd, and green apples play well off tones of ocean spray, floral perfume, some honey butter, and white tea complexities. I’m a big fan of Grenache Blanc for its bright yet expressive appeal, and this is a lovely take. Includes a bit of Picpoul and Viognier. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Sparkling Picpoul Blanc Libelle - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $85
Bright lemon color with fine bubbles. The aromatic pop is so bright and floral, but shows layered depth, with lots of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust, with pie crust, over kiwi and green apples. The palate shows light body but plenty of creamy depth, and vibrant acidity, framing up the lemon, papaya, and green apple fruit. I love the racy, taut vibes, the minerals and chalk dust. The complexity is really delightful, and though it maintains this brisk appeal, there are a lot of layered, deeper elements to parse through. That flinty mineral element on the finish – lovely. A great idea for the holidays or in a blind tasting – I’d enjoy hearing the guesses from wine nerd friends. Picpoul made in the Champagne method. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. An expressive nose of raspberries and cranberry relish, with juicy black cherries, and nuances of violets, clove, warm clay, black pepper, and cedar and coffee grounds. Full-bodied but fresh and vibrant with a silky, pleasantly plush mouthfeel. Concentrated but clear fruit (raspberries, plums, cranberry relish, tart blueberries), and the fruit is mixed well with elements of spiced black tea, coffee grounds, roasted nuts, hints of cedar. Finishes with stony minerals and earth. A super cool blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tannat. Paso’s got the goods! (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Ancestor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District

SRP: $85
Deep purple color. A rich nose of blackberry, blueberry, tangy black cherries, tossed with spicy tobacco, earthy-sage tones, black pepper, and deeper elements of anise and mocha. Deep but vibrant, serious grip on the tannins but things are ironed out and seamed together nicely. A core of tart black currant and blueberries starts things off, and the non-fruit elements shine (black pepper, all sorts of soil and rocks, mineral/graphite accents, hints of barbecue sauce). A lot to parse through, this is focused and deep young but will age wonderfully, and those savory complexities will really pop. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 20% Malbec. (94 points)

Troon Vineyard

Anyone who has read my wine writing over the past decade has likely heard about Troon, located in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. This producer casts a wide net in terms of varieties and styles, with a serious commitment to the land. Dick Troon first planted vines out here in 1972, and their unique terroir along the Kubli Bench provides a beautiful canvas for their wide variety of bottlings. They’re regenerative organic certified, practice biodynamic farming and winemaking, along with carbon sequestration efforts. And their wines are consistently awesome, and somehow not that expensive.

I’m focusing on their Druid’s Red and White blends, which I think would be a great introduction into this producer’s approach and style. Like the seasons, the blends are different each year. They’re so food-friendly and crowd-pleasing, so they’d be a good call for holiday festivities.

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. A tropical, floral bouquet with pineapple, lemon curd, kiwi, and papaya, topped in chalk dusty, crunchy sea salt and river rocks, with honey and almond skin. The palate has a smooth texture and crisp acidity with green and yellow pears and apples, along with kiwi, mixed with orange blossom, dandelion, some sliced cucumber, and sea salt. There’s a focused mineral presence underneath as well. This is so much fun. This vintage is a blend of Vermentino, Marsanne, Lagniappe, and other grapes. (90 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. The aromas show a tangy compote of plums, raspberries, and tangy blueberries, along with violets, potting soil, some light roast coffee, and all sorts of herbs and spices. The palate is super zesty and bright, with tangy wild raspberries and strawberries, saucy plums, cranberry jam. I enjoy the clay and earth tones, with violets and herbal tea. So fun and juicy, crushable yet complex. A great combination. An exciting kitchen sink blend of grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Tannat, Negrette, and others. (90 points)

Gamble

Maybe I’m biased because my parents are, technically speaking, mill keepers. In the rural foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, they’ve rejuvenated an historic mill property from neglect and overgrowth over the past 15 years. That’s where I planted a failed vineyard, and spent countless days fishing, working the property, bird-watching, enjoying nature and family.

I’m always a supporter in wineries that take part in various charitable or actionable work on behalf of different conservation goals. And this brand is a supporter of the National Parks Conservation Association and a partner of one Napa Valley’s Bale Grist Mill State Park. This wine is delicious, reasonably-priced, and one worth sharing or gifting.

Gamble’s higher-end Napa Cabs are real gems. I’ve been a fan of them for many years, and they’re the type of Napa Cabernet that is delicious upon first taste and keeps rolling out the nuance and complexity over the course of hours or days. If you’re gifting a Napa Cab lover (or just buying for yourself), I’d go for two – one for this season, and one to bury and forget about for five to eight years.

Non-Vintage Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California

SRP: $26
Light purple color. A warm and inviting nose of roasted figs, tangy red currants, sweet black cherries, along with scents of coffee, toffee, smoky earth, and chewing tobacco. The palate is ripe and plush but shows good depth and texture, with chewy tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy plums, juicy raspberries, and spiced cranberry relish. Notes of coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, and some cool earthy, tobacco, and sage tones. A crowd-pleasing, fun, but balanced Cab that’s a blend of vintages and Napa sites. (90 points)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60 

Rich purple color. Aromas of warm currant and fig compote, with tangy black cherries, vibrant and deep fruit, mixed with complex tones of peppered steak, dried violets, tobacco, and a host of rocky, mineral, smoky earth, and charcoal vibes to parse through. Suave, juicy, well-structured tannins, the palate is kept aloft by vibrant acidity, and I get flavors of black currants, roasted fig, and blackberries. The complexities of roasted red pepper, sage, grilled steak, and dried flowers offer a lot of deliciousness and intrigue. This has a long life ahead, and I really look forward to where these savory tones go, and to see this wine resolve into a beauty. Drink now with a good decant or let it sit for five or eight years. Includes 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, and 3% Malbec aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months. (94 points)

California gems to welcome Autumn

Mid-September sunrise on the Potomac

I’m a big fan of the astronomical calendar for the seasons, and I love celebrating the Autumnal Equinox. So, at least in that sense, we’re still in Summer. It’s still been quite warm here in the Mid-Atlantic, and the hurricanes keep cranking, but the humidity is dropping and the cooler mornings are starting to arrive. I hope everyone is staying safe and enjoying September so far .

There’s plenty of delightful weather on the way, and I have some fresh, California wines that will keep things cool all Autumn long. Delicious Chardonnay abounds here, including one from one of my favorites (Smith-Madrone), a stunner from Three Sticks, and some relatively new-to-me wines (Ettore and Waypoint), and throw in a classic value from Ferrari-Carano.

But there are some awesome reds in here as well, from crisp a crisp and airy Waypoint Pinot, to another winner of a Zin from Frank Family. Lastly, I have the Lithology Cab from the Alejandro Bulgheroni Estate, which is a real treat if you’re looking to bury some shockingly-good Napa Cab in the cellar and enjoy the 2019 vintage. Check this one out.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow, slight green color. The aromas pop with gooseberry, lime, kiwi, green melon, along with wild mint, fresh oregano, sliced chives, and some floral perfume and honeysuckle. The palate is ripe and peachy and generous in texture, but shows racy acidity and a focused sense of clarity. White peach, limes, guava, the fruit is laced with cool tones of herbal tea, white pepper, celery seed, sliced green bell pepper. Those elements are nuanced and woven in really well with honey and minerals, lots of flowers. Summery for sure but year-round goodness in here. A steal and a complex value at the price point. (90 points)

2022 Conundrum Wines White Table Wine - USA, California
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Smells peach-keen with daisies, dandelion, hay, orange blossom (floral city!), along with notes of honey, circus peanuts, and some herbal hints. The palate has a rich and creamy texture but surprising acidity, with flavors of yellow plums, pineapple, lime zest, peach nectar, a tropical mélange of all sorts of goodness. White and yellow flowers mix with tones of chalk, celery seed, mint. Very pleasant with a tropical, breezy vibe that will keep summer going all fall. I’ve long been a fan of this perennially-changing, fun, ripe, experimental wine, and it’s nice to know this style is still going. Screaming value, crowd-pleasing, what’s not to love? Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Viognier. (89 points)

2021 Ferrari Carano Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. Yummy aromas of yellow apples, juicy pineapple, some lemon curd, with nuances of buttered biscuits, honey, tropical blossoms, with some hay and almond skin. The palate sports a delightful creaminess and moderate acidity, with a fun feel and pleasant balance. Yellow apples, kiwi, and lemon curd fruit, a fresh and juicy appeal, with notes of almond, bruised apple, nougat, along with some salty, floral complexities. Classic stuff, crowd-pleasing for sure, but balanced and delicious. Aged in stainless steel and 30% French oak. (89 points)

2019 Ettore Winery Chardonnay Zero - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Intense aromatic display, with bruised apples, white peach, orange marmalade, and apricot, along with saline, hazelnut, and a waxy, spicy, almost Jura-esque vibe, and it smells awesome. Rich and waxy texture yet vibrant acidity keeps this alive and kicking, with flavors of apricots, lemon marmalade, dried pineapple, and orange peel. There’s a lot of cool nutty, deep, honeyed tones, but the wine stays so fresh and tingly, with complex floral, saline, chalk dust, and herbal vibes. Perhaps a bit on the adventurous side, but it pulls it off so well and is delicious as it is interesting. (92 points)

2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. The lemon curd, orange peel, and yellow pear aromas are delightful, with notes of yellow and white flowers, inviting tones of biscuit dough, sea salt, crushed stones – love it. The palate is racy and spritely with a delightful texture and harmonious fruit (lemons, yellow pears, white peach). Nuances of white tea, honey, sea salt, slight nougat and graham cracker. Racy and precise, deep and age-worth, this has it all. Disclaimer, I’m a huge fan of this wine in general, but even if it was not my personal style, I don’t think you can argue that this is one helluva well-made Chardonnay. And the 2019 is singing, and will continue to do so in the cellar. Absurd value, easy buy. (95 points)

2021 Three Sticks Chardonnay One Sky - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $70
Rich yellow color. The nose shows yellow pears, lemon curd, orange peel, along with a lot of yellow flowers, honey, chalk and limestone dust, along with nuances of almond, peanut skin, white tea, shaved ginger. The palate sports a bold texture with lip-smacking acidity, and flavors of yellow apples, lemon bars, along with crunchy green apples. The palate is gorgeous, with beautiful texture and focused acidity. The complexities are really impressive: smashed rocks, chalk dust, ocean spray, limestone, nuanced of saltine cracker and hay. The mouthfeel, flavors, balance, and finish are gnarly. A shockingly awesome Chardonnay that will age for a very long time. For the price? C’mon, this is nuts. (94 points)

2020 Waypoint Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $60
Juicy, deep yellow color. The aromas show a delightful mix of rich and vibrant, with lemon curd, orange peel, with white peach, almond biscuits, cinnamon crumb cake, flinty minerals, chalk dust, white flowers. The palate shows such creamy, lovely texture, balanced with pristine acidity and a clear mineral focus. Flavors of golden apples and lemon curd, mixed with all sorts of honey, graham cracker, almonds, hay. There’s also a lot of sea salt, crushed stones, minerals, all sorts of good stuff packed in here. The nuance and lip-smacking vibrancy of this wine, and the balance with the richness, really fires. Aged 18 months in 43% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Waypoint Pinot Noir Terra de Promissio Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $60
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and lively, with fresh raspberries, strawberries, sliced rhubarb, with notes of white pepper, clay, creosote, mint, dried rose petals, very cool! The palate is crisp and airy with a fresh appeal and nervy aesthetic despite the fine-grained tannins and solid structure. The juiciest and tangiest strawberries, red currants, and cranberry relish, mix so well with tones of oregano, mint, dried rose petals, all sorts of savory spices and nuances. Despite the depth, age-worthiness, and complexity, it maintains a cool, airy, vibrant appeal. Beautiful Sonoma Pinot. (94 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Rich purple color. Roasted figs, blackberry jam, tangy blueberries, with notes of smoky earth, sage, incense sticks, charcoal, anise – a lot of cool things. The palate sports exceptional balance with suave tannins, a rich feel, but a bright acidity. The fruit is tangy and deep, like farm fresh blueberry and blackberry jam, with crunchy currants, and that is woven together with threads of violet petals, black pepper, oregano, all sorts of earthy, stony, and mineral vibes. This is a perennially excellent Zinfandel, but this vintage in particular has such vibrancy and staying power. Bring on cooler nights and this wine. (93 points)

2019 Lithology Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley

SRP: $150
Such a deep but inviting purple color. The nose shows a dark core of black currant, blackberry, fig paste, and these classic Napa Cab nuances you love to sniff: dusty earth, pencil shavings, tobacco, some eucalyptus and violet tones. On the palate, you really start to grasp the depth and intricacy of this wine, with grippy but refined tannins and fresh acidity, setting an open stage for the tangy black currant and dark plum fruit. The non-fruit nuances show so much, with graphite, charcoal, and minerals on one hand, and coffee grounds, dark chocolate, sweet pipe tobacco, and clove on the other. The concentration and depth are a delight. Yes, it is very enjoyable to sip this wine this young, but this should be buried for five to ten at least. I love the 2019 vintage, and this expression is exquisite. Cab with Petit Verdot, Cab Franc, aged 22 months in French oak. (95 points)

Lobo Wines makes some howling good reds

There are a lot of California producers out there, and things can be daunting if you want to find high-quality wineries in which to invest your time and money.

I’ve been pleased over the past three or four years to have learned more about Lobo Wines from Napa, and I think they’re certainly a producer with checking out. In the glass these wines were always striking, certainly in the aromatics department, but also with a real sense of depth and age-worthiness on the palate. Packed with verve, nuance, and they are like new riffs on classic bass line sort of wines. And the consistency is so evident. The labels and brand aesthetic (let’s face it – that really matters) – I find excellent and attractive.

Once I established that the wines were of serious intrigue, there’s a cool story behind it as well. The winery is the project of Randy and Krys Wulff. Randy, who grew up together in the Central Valley. More than 20 years ago, they moved to Napa and planted some Oak Knoll Chardonnay to get things started. Today, Lobo produces wine from Oak Knoll and their Atlas Peak estate (Villa Lobo), and they make Chard, Pinot, Syrah, Merlot, and some Cabs.

In wondering how these reds show so much finesse, it makes a lot of sense when you look at the winemaker’s resume. The Chardonnay is produced by Randy Lewis and Victoria Coleman makes the reds. She has worked at Stag’s Leap and even interned Mouton-Rothschild, and has made Lobo wines for 16 years. She was also the first black woman to graduate from the UC Davis viticulture and enology program.

I’ve enjoyed these red wines a few times over the year, and the consistency of high quality is an obvious trend. They clearly have some great fruit to work with in Oak Knoll and Atlas Peak, and they offer a way to explore the different Napa subregions within the context of the same artist.

They have a nice range of wines, and I was happy to taste through two of their 2020 offerings, an Atlas Peak Cabernet and an Oak Knoll Syrah-Cabernet blend.

The wines are available on Lobo Wine’s site. And they're open for scheduled visits and tastings. Take a look at a virtual tour of their cave (it looks great!) and worth a visit the next time I'm in Napa.

These were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $105
Deep purple color. The nose exudes this mix of tangy, roasted fig paste, with black currants, laced with smoky earth, roasted red pepper, spicy tobacco, sage, mint. It’s deep and dark but expressive and herbal.  The palate sports vibrant acidity that gives this Cab a refreshing appeal, but the tannins provide this grippy structure, with a host of dark plum, red and black currants, black cherry jam. Lovely balance, and the nuances abound: stony, mineral vibes, savory and peppery spice, gravelly-loam, with some nuances of cedar, graphite, and dark chocolate shavings. This needs air and time to come into its own, but a beautiful and complex Cab. (94 points)

2020 Lobo Wines Howl Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Saucy purple color. A tangy, dark blend of black currants, black cherries, wild blueberries, with a saucy blend of anise, beef jerky, black pepper, violets, clove, some barbecue sauce and dark chocolate – just a delight to sniff and worthy of a good decant to get it going. Bright acidity frames the wine well, and the tannins have nice grip with a pleasantly chewy feel. Black cherries, blueberries, black currant jam, delightful fruit, and it rounds out with complex elements of anise, cocoa, black pepper, sauteed mushrooms, black tea. There’s a ton going on here in the non-fruit complexities. Ripe and juicy but structured for the cellar, too. A rocking blend of Syrah with 29% Cabernet Sauvignon. (93 points)

Wine Reviews: California new releases

This week I’m back with more California new releases, including some well-known names and new-to-me producers.

Justin’s Paso Robles-based wines are widely available and they have a diverse lineup. I have three of their staples this week that would be great for this late summer, vacation-y time. A Far Niente Cab brings a lot of Napa goodness at a reasonable price, and I also have one of the best bargain California Pinots I’ve found to date in The Pinot Project’s offering.

This is my first dive into Meyye Wines, and I’m already a huge fan. Immediately, I knew something was different with this producer. As a wildlife photographer and bird nerd, the intricate labels embossed with local birds drew me in, and the wines include the names of the birds in the Coast Miwok language. And the wine inside the bottle is just as excellent as I was hoping. Winemaker Rob Campbell — a member of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria (Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo) — launched this project after working with Story Winery in Amador County until 2019, realizing his long-time dream to found a winery honoring his heritage.

“I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it,” Campbell says. “In addition to being ultra-premium wines that taste great, it’s my small way of preserving our language by sharing with native and non-native people alike.” These small production wines are available from the winery’s site, and soon some restaurants, and certainly worth checking out.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Justin Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. A vibrant pop on the nose of gooseberry, white peach, orange peel, along with peach blossom, honey, tropical flowers, and honeysuckle. The palate has a juicy and rich texture with flavors of white peach, honey-glazed pears, drizzled with some lemon juice, a ripe yet balanced appeal. Floral and perfumed with honeysuckle, orchard fruit blossoms galore, along with some celery seed and mint tones. Fun, vibrant, fresh, quite complex and a solid bargain. (88 points)

2022 Justin Vineyards Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $20
The color of ripe watermelon and peach. The palate shows a bright mix of white raspberry, peaches, wild strawberries, with tones of chalk dust, sea salt, some crushed sweet tart and flinty/herbal vibes. The palate sports chunks of pineapple, slices oranges, mango, lime juice, delightful stuff, along with floral, perfumed nuances and tones of white pepper, mint, and celery seed. A base of whole-cluster Syrah, super fun and crowd-pleasing, but complex as well. (90 points)

2020 Justin Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows suave plums and currants, laced with smoky earth and coffee, notes of pepper, roasted red pepper, some roasted chestnut, hints of dark chocolate. Juicy and ripe on the palate with sweet tannins, a pleasantly chewy feel, with moderated acidity. Flavors of juicy plums, raspberry jam, with currant jam, and the fruit is mixed with tones of anise, tobacco, sage, along with coffee, mocha, and anise cookie. Fun and ripe but nuanced and balanced, too. Great grill-out, crowd-pleasing Cab at a reasonable price. Aged 14 months in 25% new American oak. (89 points)

2021 The Pinot Project Pinot Noir - USA, California
SRP: $13
Light ruby color. Ripe and fun on the nose with fresh strawberries, raspberries, some cherry pie, topped in sliced rhubarb, some white pepper, bay leaf, tobacco nuances. Juicy and fresh on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Available nationwide, it’s rare to find a Pinot Noir of this price point that taste this real and expressive. Great bargain Pinot for late summer parties and cookouts. (88 points)

2019 Charles Krug Winery (Peter Mondavi Family) Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $41
Ripe purple color. Aromas of raspberry jam, plum cake, with black cherry sauce, along with toffee, mocha, vanilla, and elements of sweet pipe tobacco, earth, and charcoal. Plush texture, ripe tannins, juicy and accessible feel but vibrant acidity. A saucy appeal with ripe black cherries, plum cake, and black currant jam, and the fruit is blended well with tones of roasted bell pepper, sweet pipe tobacco, vanilla, coffee, and toffee. Juicy and generous, with solid complexity as well and a delightfully fruity appeal. (89 points)

2021 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Post & Beam - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Rich purple color. The aromas have deep but inviting tones of black currants, tangy red and black plums, with complexities of anise, black pepper, sage, tobacco, dried violets, some stony, earthy vibes – lovely. Full and juicy on the palate but really fresh with fine-grained tannins. The fruit is tangy and crunchy with deep black cherries, currant, some fig paste, and it is sprinkled with elements of pencil shavings, menthol, rocky-earthy notes, along with nuances of coffee grounds and cedar. Suave, fresh, has a really delightful mouthfeel, making this a delight to drink young, but will do well in the cellar, too. (92 points)

2020 Meyye Wines Chardonnay “Kuluppis” - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $55
Rich yellow color. The nose is juicy and deep with apricot and orange marmalade, some lemon curd, honeyed biscuits, but also it has these breezy, floral vibes, with tropical flowers, daisies, and dandelion. The palate shows pleasant creaminess and ripeness but it is nuanced and shows vibrant acidity, with flavors of pear butter, orange marmalade, and bruised yellow apples. The notes of almond, biscuits, whipped honey, and dried mango are nuanced and delicious, and there’s no overbearing oak. A clear, ripe but vibrant finish with notes of minerals and chalk dust over top of biscuit dough. Delicious stuff from Sangiacomo Vineyard. (91 points)

2019 Meyye Wines Pinot Noir “Omay” - USA, California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. So alive and vibrant on the nose, with the freshest chilled strawberries and raspberries, some cranberry relish, with nuances of rose hips, sage, white pepper, and tobacco. So silky and refined on the palate with dusty tannins and crisp, refreshing acidity. The fruit is pure and delicious (juicy black cherries, tangy strawberries, cranberry relish) laced with tobacco, sage, tilled soil, fallen leaves, clove, white pepper. A ton to unpack here, this is an intricate, refined, and expressive Pinot Noir. Delightful now, but I’d love to cellar it for four or five years. From Sangiacomo and Roberts Road vineyards. (93 points)

2019 Meyye Wines “Sokootok” - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $60
Pretty, deep ruby color. Ooh, the nose is enticing with these black cherries and saucy plums laced with mesquite, smoky charcoal, pepperoni, graphite, roasted red pepper, tobacco, some violets. The palate is rich but balanced with a fleshy feel but nice grip on the tannins and moderate acidity. Flavors of deep black cherries and spicy cranberry jam, and the fruit is blended wonderfully with tones of tobacco, creosote, mesquite, charcoal, roasted red pepper, leather. Delicious now but things will really start to integrate in the next three to six years and those intricate savory tones will really pop. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Counoise, and Zinfandel from Amador County. (92 points)

2015 Meyye Wines Zinfandel “Palachchak” - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant ruby color. The nose is sweet and ripe with crushed raspberries and red cherries, with sliced rhubarb, chewing tobacco, sweet roses, red licorice, some leather – a cool mix. Full and ripe on the palate, refined, integrated tannins with fresh acidity. Big but fresh with juicy raspberry and strawberry fruit, mixed with elements of dusty earth, savory spices, some cola, tobacco, and mint. A lot of fun, and drinking great right now. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirst.

California wines to beat the heat

Me, cooling down in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Apparently, August 4 is National White Wine Day. And considering the seemingly endless heat across most of the country, the timing sure seems right.

It’s 96 and humid where I am in the Mid-Atlantic, and I know it is a lot worse in other regions. I honestly can’t even think about red wine at the moment, so let’s dive into some delicious California white wines.

From a shockingly good $15 Chard to Chalk Hill and Carneros, this is a Chardonnay heavy sampling, but there’s a lot of diversity in here. Chalk Hill delivers three intriguing offerings, and I have a few from well-known names like Sonoma-Cutrer and Ferrari-Carano. If you haven’t heard of Lange Twins or Bouchaine, these two producers make some well-balanced Chardonnays at reasonable price points. Bouchaine’s winemaker Chris Kajani makes more than a dozen Chards, and his skills show.

To top things off, I have two unique white wines from Napa’s Mira Winery. I’ve long been a fan of their reds – the Malbec and Cabernet Franc are exquisite – but these two wines are new to me: a skin-fermented Cabernet Franc (OK, so it’s not technically a “white wine”) and a Sauvignon Gris that’s perfect for high-end summer sipping.

These wines were received as samples. The Chardonnays were tasted single-blind, while the Mira wines were tasted sighted.

2021 Harken Chardonnay Barrel Fermented – USA, California
SRP: $15
Deep yellow color. A ripe nose of lemon curd, yellow apples, and pear butter, with notes of almond, graham cracker, saltines, and some tropical flowers. The palate is juicy and ripe with yellow apples and pears, and medium acidity, which helps it stay bright and balance out the richer tones. Honey, graham cracker, and white tea notes add some fun vibes. There’s some flinty, floral complexity, too. A fun, surprisingly complex value Chardonnay that tastes way more “real” than most Chardonnays in this price point. Aged eight months in 50/50 American/French oak. (88 points)

2022 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Sonoma Coast – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Rich pears and yellow apples with almond, honey, graham cracker, with fresher tones of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust. The palate shows a delightful creaminess but refreshing acidity, all balanced nicely. Juicy lemon, yellow apples, creamy pears, along with flinty, seashell vibes, and nuances of almond skin, honeycomb, and peanut brittle. Deep but vibrant, balanced, a delightful Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. (89 points)

2021 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Estate – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $52
Rich yellow color. Juicy aromas of white peach, yellow apples, and pear butter, along with inviting tones of cinnamon and almond cake, with notes of honey, dandelion, and white flowers, too. A creamy, rich texture with bright acidity keeps things balanced wonderfully, and I love the flavors of yellow apples and pears, some nectarine. There is a pleasant mix of honey, graham cracker, sea salt, with honeysuckle and some nougat. There’s a tingly, mineral-laden finish. Aged 11 months in 42% new French oak. (90 points)

2021 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Felta – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill

SRP: $90
Light yellow color. The nose exudes lemons, pears, green apples, with nuanced tones of sea salt, cinnamon crumb cake, shaved ginger, and mineral water. The palate sports an invitingly creamy texture, balanced with focused acidity, and a rich and juicy appeal with yellow apples, kiwi, and lemon, along with complex tones of honeyed white tea, almond croissant, yellow flowers, and all sorts of mineral and saline nuances. Delicious and precise. All maloactic fermentation, aged 15 months in 73% new French oak. (93 points)

2020 Bouchaine Chardonnay Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $36
Deep yellow color. The nose exudes ripe yellow plums and pears, mixed with cinnamon, biscuits and honey, some graham cracker, and the richer tones are balanced with these limestone and crushed rock tones. Rich texture but the acidity is crisp and the balance is on point. Yellow apples, lemon curd, orange peel, the fruit is backed up by nuances of graham cracker, peanut shell, honeycomb, honeyed tea. Underneath, there are these flinty, mineral essences that finish clean and add a lot of complexity and enjoyment. (91 points)

2021 Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay Tre Terre – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Medium yellow color. The nose shows a deep but lively mix of creamy pears, orange peels, drizzled with lime, along with honey, almond, some graham cracker, with tones of white flowers and flint. This has a delightfully rich texture, balanced nicely with lively acidity, and juicy, creamy fruit (pears and yellow apples) with some orange peel tossed in. There’s a nice crushed shell and mineral mix underneath that tingles the palate and lasts long on the finish, contrasting well with the honeyed, almond vibes. Delicious, complex, rich but nuanced Russian River Chardonnay, aged 15 months in 2/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Dutton Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $42
Deep yellow. The nose shows a tropical dessert of yellow pears and lemon curd, with pie crust, nougat, crumb cake, and some helpful doses of salt and chalk. The palate is juicy and fun, has nuanced acidity that keeps things going forward, and solid complexity. Flavors of ripe yellow apples, orange creamsicle, and pineapple mix with tones of buttered biscuits, toasted oak, and almond skin. A deep, suave, creamy style but it stays vibrant and you can’t deny the deliciousness. (89 points)

2021 LangeTwins Chardonnay Merrill Vineyard – USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. An expressive nose of lemon curd, pineapple, ripe peach, along with lots of honey, whipped butter, and subtle talc and mineral vibes. Generous texture, moderate acidity, it has a plush and creamy feel with mango, ripe yellow pear, some green apples. Flavors of whipped honey, ginger snaps, some corn husk, and there’s a cool mix of talc, minerals, and quinine. Interesting flavors and style – fun stuff, quite complex, solid value! Aged 12 months in used oak. (89 points)

2021 Mira Winery Ovum Aureum – USA, California, Napa Valley

SRP: $85
Light yellow color. Aromas are just beautiful and so inviting, with fresh tones of orange peel, guava, lemon zest, along with chalky, limestone, mineral-infused goodness, with flinty, stony vibes and wild herbs and white flowers. The palate has a beautiful textural depth, and brisk acidity, and the balance is impressive. Pure fruit (yellow apples, nectarine, juicy raspberry and red apple). The non-fruit elements are exciting and woven together so well – stony minerals, mountain stream, limestone and chalk dust, almond skin, white flowers. This is rocking now but also has aging potential. Wow. All Sauvignon Gris aged in egg-shaped old oak barrels. (94 points)

2021 Mira Winery Cabernet Franc “Franc Blanc” – USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $65
Gorgeous pale copper color. So fresh on the nose, with this crunchy white cherry, tangy strawberry, with notes of watermelon rind, spicy white pepper, nettle, basil, and some chalk dust – really exciting. The palate shows gorgeous texture, with racy acidity, and complex, delicious fruit (yellow plum, tart raspberry, yellow apples). There is a complex, intriguing mix of sea salt, minerals, mountain streams, along with nuanced tones of hay, white pepper, basil, there is a lot to parse through. The complexity, mouthfeel, this is Mira doing their thing – I wasn’t aware this wine existed, but it’s a special wine for sure. All Cab Franc whole-cluster pressed. (94 points)

2022 Bouchaine Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $29
Light watermelon color. The aromas pop with crunchy red apple, white cherries, bright raspberries, along with white pepper, wildflowers and wild mint. The palate has a salty, punchy appeal, beautiful briskness and tart vibes but solid textural complexity and weight, too. White cherries, wild raspberries, tart red apples, the fruit is blended well with tones of daisies, celery seed, chalk dust, some flinty-mineral essence. Beautiful mouthfeel and finish, a lot of personality and vibrancy. 85% whole-cluster and 15% saignée Pinot Noir. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine across America

I can’t believe it’s July. This summer is speeding past, but I’m making plans to take advantage of the weather and time with friends and family. I wish you all a great summer break, wherever and whenever you find it. And as the Fourth of July approaches, it’s a good time to highlight some diverse wines from all across America.

Long-time readers know I’m a big Virginia wine fan, and recently wrote about the Governor’s Cup winners. I’m back with a producer I’ve talked about before, and will do again, because they’re great: Stinson Vineyards. They make some Virginia gems and are not afraid to experiment, from Tannat rosé to skin-ferment Rkatsiteli, I find anything with their label worth buying.

From sea to shining sea on the West Coast, I have some delightfully zippy and coastal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Fort Ross Seaview Winery that brings serious value to the table. And Fiddlehead Cellars has two seriously complex summer-friendly wines from the Central Coast.

Napa’s Newton comes out swinging with some heavy hitters. Their unfiltered Chardonnay is a regional classic. And the single vineyard Cabernets do an incredible job of showcasing the diversity of Napa regions through their different properties. Taken together, these wines represent a celebration of Napa Cabernet and the varied, exquisite sites where it thrives. The 2019 and 2018 vintages are both singing, and these elegant Cabs would make great gifts or cellar stockers.

From the sun-roasted, high elevation Sonoran Desert comes Aridus, an Arizona-based winery that puts out solid Southwest wines at very reasonable prices. I’m a huge fan of Arizona wines, and this producer offers a nice intro into the state’s industry.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

California

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot Noir Pink Fiddle Fiddlestix Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $32
Deep watermelon color. Ripe and vibrant on the nose with white peaches, red apples, watermelon, with fresh, floral tones of lilies, grassy meadow, crushed shells and white pepper. The palate shows a creamy depth of texture and lip-smacking acidity. Beautiful flavors of watermelon, orange slices, white cherry and peach. The non-fruit nuances are great – minerals and stones, rushing mountain stream, with notes of fennel, hay, white pepper, dried flowers. A beautifully complex and focused single-vineyard Pinot Noir pink that offers deliciousness and a unique vibe. (91 points)

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc La Presa Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Los Olivos District
SRP: $32
Pale lemon color. So juicy on the nose, with guava, white peach, and papaya, along with fresh lime zest, sliced flower stems, wild green onion, chalk dust. The palate is so crunchy and fresh, a bright appeal but a pleasantly creamy texture adds to the experience, with flavors of yellow apples, papaya, and white peach. It has these racy undertones of chalk dust, minerals, saline, and plenty of perfume and nuanced white pepper and green herbs. Lively and complex, this is a gem of a Sauv Blanc from a special site (La Presa Vineyard). Stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation. (92+ points)

2022 Ancient Peaks Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch
SRP: $18
Light yellow color. Aromatically, this pops with flavors of nectarine, guava, and white peach, with a big dose of tropical flowers, dandelion, hints of honey and sliced cucumber – love it. In the mouth, this wine has delightful texture, rich but balanced with moderate acidity, and juicy flavors of cantaloupe, guava, and orange peel. Nuances of yellow and white flowers, some honey, and salty, flinty notes on the finish. For summer outdoor gatherings, this would be perfect. Serious value alert in this dynamic, balanced Paso Sauvignon Blanc. (90 points)

2021 Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. Peachy keen on the nose with guava and banana, with tropical flowers, orange marmalade, some chalky tones. The palate is medium-bodied and creamy with moderate acidity and a fun, summery feel. Creamy and fruity with peaches, guava, and lime zest, mixed with yellow flowers and honey. A fun, crowd-pleasing Sauv Blanc that has a lot of personality and complexity for the price. (86 points)

2021 Newton Chardonnay Unfiltered - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Unabashed yellow color. The nose sports richer tones of honeycomb, ginger snap, whipped honey, with brighter tones of white flowers and dandelions, along with limes, lemon curd, and yellow apple fruit. Deep texture on the palate with racy acidity and a pretty display of yellow apples, golden pears, drizzled with limes. There are a lot of chalky, salty vines in here, and the wine maintains this clear presence throughout, with notes of mountain stream and minerals that accent the honey and nougat nuances. Delicious, balanced, beautiful. Barrel-fermented and aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

N.V. Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Simply Cutrer - USA, California
SRP: $20 – 4/250ml cans
Light yellow color. A lively nose of pineapples, lemons, orange peel, bright and sweet tropical fruits, with notes of celery seed, honey, and yellow flowers. The palate has medium acidity and a nice creaminess with a steely, crisp appeal. Crushable, medium-bodied with flavors of lemon, green and yellow apples, and pineapple. Notes of crushed sweet tarts and chalk add a nice kick. Fresh, enjoyable vibes in this canned Chardonnay that would be a good call for summer camping or outdoor enjoyment. (87 points)

2021 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
SRP: $30
Deep yellow color. The aromas show a pleasantly balanced blend between richer tones (honey, nougat, apricot, ginger, almond) with brighter ones (white flowers, sea salt, crushed limestone). The palate shows rich texture and racy acidity, making for a juicy but lip-smacking Chard with flavors of apricot and yellow apple. Notes of chalk, flint, almond shell, ginger snaps, and honey add complexity. Rich but nuanced, this would please many a Chardonnay-loving palate. Aged eight months in neutral French oak. (90 points)

2021 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. Such a fresh, floral nose with tangy red plums, wild raspberries, bright strawberries, along with complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, deep earth, violets. The palate shows moderate but chewy tannins and vibrant acidity, which makes for a lovely, balanced wine, with flavors of zesty cranberry relish and juicy black cherries. There are a host of savory but vibrant accents in this wine (rhubarb, spiced tea, anise). Fun and fresh but serious complexity and balance, not to mention value. Aged nine months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $210
Dark purple color. A deep core of blackberries, currants, wild blueberries on the nose, along with rich soil, graphite, charcoal, cedar, some anise and chewing tobacco – a lot to go through and enjoy. Full and grippy but the acidity is delightfully tangy and keeps this wine so energetic. A dark mix of tangy blackberries, currants, and blueberries, along with complex notes of pencil shavings, coffee grounds, mocha, black tea, and there are complex notes of rocks and minerals to enjoy. A long life ahead of this one. All Cab, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (93 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $210
Beautifully deep purple. The nose has such a lovely mix of fresh/tangy with deeper, darker elements – juicy black cherries, roasted figs, tangy wild blueberries, the fruit blends so well with graphite, anise, tar, stony, herbal vibes. A solid frame of grippy tannins with refined edges, balanced wonderfully with fresh acidity. The black cherry and tangy currant fruit is lively and focused, and laced with a host of complex earthy, stony elements – minerals, graphite, smashed rocks, with savory black pepper and mushroom glaze notes. Complex and beautiful, this needs a serious decant or to be forgotten in the cellar for a while to show its full potential. All Cabernet, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $210
Lush, dark purple. On the nose, I get a deep compote of blueberries, plum sauce, tart black currants, mixed with loamy earth, a lot of stony and mineral essence, with dried violets, iron, tobacco, spiced black tea and clove – wow, give this serious swirling or a decant. Grippy but suave on the palate, lovely balance between well-build tannins and lively acidity. Dark and tangy, with pure fruit (black cherry, tart currant, plums, blueberries), blended expertly with pepper, anise, nuanced herbal vibes, spiced tea, graphite and minerals. Deep but effortless feel, and the finish is so long and lovely. This has so much more to show in a decade, but what a beaut. 100% Cab, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

2019 Newton The Puzzle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $135

Deep purple color. The aromas show a rich tapestry of figs, plum compote, black cherries, along with savory tones of spiced tea, black pepper, anise, with cocoa and some roasted herb tones – really needs swirling or a decant to get these beautiful tones going. The palate is full but fresh with solid but supple tannins and really fresh acidity. The fruit is a mix of crunchy black currant, roasted figs, and juicy plums, gorgeous concentration, with nuances of black tea, menthol, graphite, flinty mineral tones. This is a long ager for sure, but has such freshness that it makes it enjoyable young as well. Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Cab Franc, 7% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Grenache, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

Arizona

2019 Aridus Viognier - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $40
Rich yellow color. Aromatically tropical but with these floral, succulent accents: pineapple, peaches, lemon curd, with notes of tropical flowers, honey, graham cracker and some slight white pepper and sea salt. So fun on the palate, a creamy texture with a waxy appeal, but it stays lively with medium acidity. Flavors of orange marmalade, yellow pears, and lemon cake mix with notes of orange blossom, dandelion, with honey and some white tea. This wine was fermented and aged 14 months in sandstone jars (which is very interesting). A unique and clear expression of Arizona Viognier that is getting more expressive with age. (90 points)

2019 Aridus Tempranillo - USA, Arizona
SRP: $50
Vibrant plum color. Lovely aromas of cranberry sauce, ripe black and red cherries, along with a cool mix of savory tones, like tar, pepper, potpourri, creosote. The palate shows smooth tannins and medium acidity, which supports a mix of gushing black cherry and plum fruit, ripe but nuanced. There are a lot of interesting spicy, meaty, peppery tones, with tar, smoky earth, dried roses. A really fun and accessible style, super juicy and easy-drinking but it sports solid complexity as well. Delicious example of AZ Tempranillo. Includes 14% Graciano, aged 28 months in oak. (90 points)

2019 Aridus Syrah - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. The nose explodes with roasted figs, currant jam, cherry jam, along with complex notes of smoky earth, sage, pepper, clove, dried rose petals, eucalyptus. On the palate, this is suave and ripe with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Roasted plums and figs mix with tangy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with nuances of white pepper, warm clay, desert herbs, and black pepper. I’ve grilled steak in the Arizona desert with a different vintage of this wine, and I highly recommend it, or wherever you’re grilling. 100% Syrah, aged 30 months in oak. (90 points)

Virginia

2022 Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. Smells like a burst of guava and white peach, drizzled with lime, topped in sudsy floral brightness, white pepper, fresh basil and sliced cucumber. The palate shows waves of textural depth and pristine acid, with flinty mineral tones. Creamy yellow apples mixed with crunchy green pears and lime, and the floral, herbal, and saline complexity sings. A consistently exciting and clear Virginia Sauvignon Blanc, and this vintage keeps that going. Virginia doesn’t have value? This wine says otherwise. Fermented in a mix of concrete and stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $23
Ripe watermelon color. The wine smells of bright red fruits and floral perfume, with red apple and wild raspberry, along with rose petals, floral perfume, and notes of hay, celery seed, sea salt, spicy white pepper. Texturally, this is plush but bright, with juicy texture and a streak of minerals. Flavors of white cherry, crunchy red apple, and watermelon blend well with mint, spiced white tea, and flowers, chalk dust. Classic flavors and feel. A reliably delicious Virginia rosé that continues the streak of excellence. (90 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $41Deep ruby color. The palate is a ripe and tangy compote of raspberries, wild blueberries, black cherries, with menthol, earth, clove, anise, all sorts of cool smoky, tar, spicy, violet vibes. Upon sipping, this wine is ripe but nuanced with solid structure, fine-edged tannins, and fresh acidity – each sip is lip-smacking. The black cherry and currant fruit is mixed with spiced cranberry relish, roasted chestnut, dusty earth, tobacco, warm clay – lots of cool things to parse through. A Virginia Meritage worth seeking out for sure: 38% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine reviews: California new releases

I’m still on a cloud from a recent trip to California. From rock-hopping, surfing, and bouldering on the Sonoma Coast, to visiting one of my favorite vineyards in the Russian River Valley (Merry Edwards), to mountaineering the high country of Mount Shasta. It was a rich and fulfilling experience. The bountiful wildflower blooms in the river valleys are something I will never forget. I know this winter season has been difficult for so many, and the snow and coming flooding will be problematic. I’m hoping for the best for you all.

But I know that, whatever Mother Nature deals out, from heat and wildfires to massive snowpack and flooding, California winegrowers and vintners are a hearty bunch. They’ll will power through, and make amazing wines.

So, this week, I want to pay respect with a mix of diverse wines from California. No further introductions needed – from known producers to value wines, they speak for themselves. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines and rosés

2020 Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $76
Medium yellow color. A complex aromatic display that bounces between the richer/deeper tones (yellow apples, lemon pie, graham cracker, nougat) and bright elements (chalk dust, honeysuckle, saline), and it works so well. The palate shows a pleasant creaminess with racy acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Flavors of lemon, quince, and key lime pie, mixed with saline, minerals, crushed seashells, along with nuanced tones of honey, saltine crackers, and bread dough. Racy and vibrant throughout, a Carneros Chardonnay that might fool some for Old World in a blind tasting. (91 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Yellow apple skin color. The palate shows juicy yellow pears and apples, topped with honeyed white tea, almond skin, cinnamon crumb cake, but also tones of white flowers and crushed shells. Crisp acidity frames this wine well, and it has a lot of deep texture but never feels weighty. The white peach and yellow pear fruit is vibrant, and blends well with tones of honey, walnut, white tea, with some salty-mineral vibes as well. A great all-around Carneros Chardonnay that should please almost any palate. Aged nine months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2021 Ron Rubin Chardonnay Pam’s Un-Oaked – USA, California
SRP: $16
Ripe yellow color. Juicy nose of yellow apples, honey, glazed pear, nougat, with some cinnamon and honeycomb. Creamy but fresh on the palate, a fun appeal with flavors of yellow apples and pears, whipped honey and some nutshell tones. Notes of hay and white flowers add complexity to this medium-bodied wine with medium-low acidity. Nice value for a creamy, fun style. (85 points)

2022 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $38
Pale lemon color. The nose sports a ripe but nuanced mix of guava, pineapple, limes, topped in chalk and sliced cucumber, with floral and nettle nuances – lovely. The palate is fun and inviting but balanced and complex. Crisp acidity on a medium-bodied frame with beautiful depth of texture. Kiwi, guava, and lemon fruit blend well with racy minerals, white and yellow flowers, and a springy, spritely appeal throughout. Such personality, precision, and value – a Napa Sauv Blanc worth seeking out for sure. (92 points)

2022 Ehlers Estate Sylviane Rosé – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $38
Deep watermelon color. The nose is so crisp and perfumed, with a spring meadow packed with flowers, along with chalk dust, watermelon rind, wild raspberries, and minty-dandelion tones – wow! Deep but crunchy texture on the palate, with flavors of pomegranate, white cherries, watermelon. The complexities dance nicely, with floral, herbs, mint, minerals. An impressive highly pleasing pink with a lot of nuances to parse through – or just chill and crush a glass. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 14% Cab Franc and 5% Malbec. (91 points)

Red wines

2021 Balverne Pinot Noir Forever Wild – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Bright ruby color. The nose is a red-fruited compote of cherries, raspberries, and tangy strawberries, laced with tones of dried rose petals, dusty earth, warm clay, nuances of white pepper and rhubarb. The palate shows delightful tannins and crisp acidity that balance wonderfully off each other. Flavors of juicy strawberries and tangy red cherries, laced with notes of rhubarb, tobacco, with a lot of pretty, mineral vibes and undertones. A generous but precise interpretation that is delicious now but will age well over the coming years as well. (92 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Pinot Noir Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $85
Vibrant ruby color. The nose is a floral, red-fruited, delightful blend of cherries, raspberries, rhubarb, rose petals, with tomato leaf and all sorts of herbal nuances. The palate is a sleek but deep affair with crisp acidity and dusty tannins, and plenty of tangy raspberry and black cherry fruit. Nuances of tobacco, white pepper, warm clay, rhubarb, loamy earth – there’s a lot to coax out with air and swirling. Delightful now, but I’d love to see this in three to five years with a duck dish. Expressive, attractive Pinot, per usual from Ram’s Gate. (93 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Ooh, such an inviting nose of raspberries and juicy black cherries, along with rhubarb, cola, dried roses, even some minty-tobacco notes – a lot blended together really well. Ripe and juicy on the palate, with raspberry jam and tang black cherries, over suave tannins and a lively acidity that keeps things going forward. Complex tones of roasted chestnut, tobacco, lavender, dried roses. This is easy-drinking and fun but shows serious complexity and poise as well. Such value here, and an impressively “real” Pinot Noir for this price point. (91 points)

2021 Ron Rubin Cabernet Sauvignon Pam’s Un-Oaked – USA, California
SRP: $16
Ripe ruby color. A pleasant burst of raspberries and strawberries on the nose, along with rose petals, some clove, mint, cola, and milk chocolate. On the palate, this sports soft tannins, medium-low acidity, and a fun, jammy appeal of raspberries and red plums. Ripe and fun with floral tones and coffee, some subtle earth and roasted chestnut. Smooth, crowd-pleasing, accessible Cabernet at a solid price. (86 points)

2019 Balverne Cabernet Sauvignon Forever Wild – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $48
Vibrant purple color. Beautiful concentration on the nose, it exudes an inviting mix of deep plums, currants, with cocoa, coffee, and earthy tones of roasted red bell pepper and mint. The palate shows a smooth and velvety appeal, with a deep textural feel and plenty of dusty, mineral vibes, which accent the dark currant and black cherry fruit. Notes of earth, savory spices, black tea, anise, and charcoal add complexity. This is a great example of the nuance and vibrancy that can be achieved with Chalk Hill Cabernet, and I’d love to revisit this in a few years. Seek out! Includes 9% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)

2018 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose shows gorgeous currants, black cherries, and cassis, with evocative notes of pepper, sage, menthol, mint, and a host of earthy, gravelly, stony aromas that need time so show their full effect. The palate shows tart, welcome acidity, framing the grippy tannins well, and sporting a dark core of currants, plums, and black cherries. Such freshness in the fruit, and the complexities abound: mint, charcoal, rocky earth, pencil shavings, black pepper, violet potpourri. This will benefit from age, but the young expressiveness is impressive. A 2019 Napa classic that drinks like a wine two or three times its price. Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. (93+ points)

2018 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $120
Vibrant purple color. Such an inviting nose, with dark, tangy currants and plums, plenty of savory nuances (tar, tobacco, pepper) with herbal earthy tones (tobacco, eucalyptus, red pepper flakes) – a lot of fun to swirl and sniff. The palate is framed with fresh acidity and grippy tannins that show the more refined edges. The fruit is a tangy, lovely compote of black cherries and currants, and mixes well with tones of anise, black pepper, rose petals. Plenty of earthy, stony, Napa goodness, and the nuances of cocoa and oak and woven in expertly. Open and expressive now (I’d decant for sure), but holding off for five to seven will result in an awesome experience. Cabernet with dabs of Petit Verdot and Merlot. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.