Searching for America's Greatest Rieslings

“What are we going to do about Riesling?”

Stu Smith, co-founder of the historic Smith-Madrone winery in Napa’s Spring Mountain District, is a lover and producer of Riesling, so it was a serious question. Some friends and I had coordinated a blind tasting of American Rieslings, and it just so happened that Stu was in town. The stars aligned, and we all tasted and discussed American Rieslings.

Since the late 1970s, Stu has been crafting Riesling from his Spring Mountain vineyards, a wine I love for its classic riffs on of Riesling’s greatest elements: freshness, purity of fruit, an intriguing mineral presence.

The idea for this tasting stems from a comment I made on Twitter about Smith-Madrone’s Riesling — I got on my soap box and declared it perhaps the greatest American Riesling. Aaron Menenberg, a Virginia-based wine-lover who recently started a blog called Good Vitis, chimed in. Other producers popped up, and I began to realize how many other American Rieslings could be considered “great.” It wasn’t long before we came up with a plan: gather dozens of high-quality American Rieslings and blind taste them.

Riesling still maintains a reputation among the larger public as an overly sweet, syrupy white wine, and that’s a shame. Wine consumers know not all Chardonnay is oaky and buttery, and we all know Merlot isn’t worthy of Sideways-style disdain. But Riesling still can’t seem to shake its reputation for being too sweet.

Riesling is perhaps the world’s greatest white wine grape. (I like to argue that Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc challenge it for supremacy, but this is a purely academic exercise.) Riesling is incredible.

Stu Smith, the Spring Mountain master, right, and the tasting panel. 

But, like many great wine grapes, there is a lot of mediocre stuff. If you pick up a random Riesling at your local grocery store, the “Riesling is too sweet” critique would almost certainly be accurate. Stu mentioned a Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling he’d just purchased for $8. It was decent, he said, but admitted it was “too sweet.” I know the wine well (it comes from the world’s largest contiguous Riesling vineyards in Washington State), and it is indeed “too sweet.”

Nothing compares to the greatness of Rieslings from the best vineyards in Germany and Austria, but there are so many incredible Rieslings produced here in the U.S. The across the board quality was very high, with a few exceptional standouts. The wines were all over the dryness spectrum, from nearly bone dry to rich and honeyed with residual sugar. However, there were only perhaps one or two I would call "too sweet." In the vast majority of these wines, the sugar is balanced with Riesling’s innately crisp acidity.

Aaron and I gathered a few dozen Rieslings from producers we thought would deliver, and blind-tasted them (along with a few ringers from other countries). I fully admit some of America’s greatest Rieslings didn’t make it on this list: Stony Hill, Tatomer, countless others from Oregon, Washington, New York, Michigan, and on and on. I'm sure many people have dozens of suggestions of wines that should be on this list, and I'd likely agree with you on all of them. There are simply too many to taste through on a Sunday afternoon, and we're only mortals, so we tasted 37 different wines. Spoiler: the Smith-Madrone did show wonderfully (it was one of the tasting panel’s highest rated wines), and Stu seemed rightly stoked about that. I will admit, I found a few other wines I liked even more. Blind tasting is always full of surprises.

I didn’t track down all the pricing information, but check out www.wine-searcher.com if you’re interested in finding some of these wines. I’ve rearranged my notes from the order in which they were tasted in order to group them by state.

California

2015 Chateau Montelena Riesling- California, North Coast, Potter Valley
Nose of lemon oil, white peach, honey, straw. Zesty, clean and brisk on the palate with plump texture but the wine is balanced nicely. Limes, peach and orange marmalade laced with minerals and chalk dust. Lovely. (90 points)

2014 Smith-Madrone Riesling- California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
Aromas of lime, banana, yellow flowers, apricot, peach. So vibrant on the palate with racy acidity but plenty of texture and packed with fruit (peach, orange, apricot, lime) with lots of quinine, minerals, mountain stream and honeycomb. Complex and delicious, so suave. (91 points)

2015 Galerie Riesling Terracea- California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
Limes, peaches, baby’s breath on the nose. Zesty and crisp on the palate with peach nectar, white flowers, honey. Notes of almond and sea salt. Very pleasant, but having had the 2014 before and loved it, I was expecting just a bit more. (88 points)

New York

2015 Anthony Road Riesling Dry- New York, Finger Lakes
Smells like limes, yellow apples, oranges, chalky, a classic nose. Brisk and lip-smacking with lemon/lime, yellow plums, juicy fruit but such focus. Fresh minerals and chalk notes linger on the finish. 11.7% alcohol, 0.7% residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Anthony Road Riesling Semi-Dry- New York, Finger Lakes

Aromas of saline, minerals and orange peel. Bold but zesty on the palate with yellow plums, spiced apple, notes of honey, ginger and almond. Packed with flavor, sweetness is evident but balanced nicely. 11.7% alcohol, 1.7% residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Red Newt Cellars Riesling The Knoll Lahoma Vineyards - New York, Finger Lakes
Nose of limes, white flowers, nettle, peach nectar – great diversity of aromas. Zesty acid but a plump frame with peach nectar, honey, graham cracker. Tropical deliciousness but balanced, a lot going on in this wine. 13.2% alcohol, about 0.4% residual sugar. (88 points)

2013 Red Newt Cellars Riesling Tango Oaks- New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
Nose of lemons, oranges, honey and white flowers. A bit thin but shows pleasant oranges, peach and honey tones. 10.6% alcohol, 0.5% residual sugar. (85 points)

2014 Red Newt Cellars Riesling The Big H Lahoma Vineyards- New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
Nose shows kumquat, lime, perfume, honeysuckle. Creamy and rich but shows nice acidity. Sugar is evident, like the last sip of a cup of honeyed white tea, a nectary wine but delicious. 10.5% alcohol, 1.9% residual sugar. (87 points)

2014 Tierce Riesling Dry- New York, Finger Lakes
Pretty aromas of apricots, lemon curd, chalk, oil and almonds. Crisp and refreshing and bright with lots of mineral and quinine notes. Orange peels, lemon curd, minerals, bracing and zesty but packed with flavor. Very impressive. A collaboration between three winemakers (Peter Becraft of Anthony Road Wine Company, Kelby Russell of Red Newt Cellars and Peter Bell of Fox Run Vineyards) and three vineyards. (90 points)

2012 Fox Run Vineyards Riesling Lake Dana Vineyard- New York, Finger Lakes
Nose of honey, apricot, bruised apple and cinnamon. Alsatian richness in style with lots of honey, orange marmalade, some tennis ball, yellow flower and roasted peanut notes. Bold and delicious but shows impressive balance. (88 points)

2014 Fox Run Vineyards Riesling Dry- New York, Finger Lakes
Aromas of sea salt, lime zest, yellow flowers, peaches. Fresh and bright and crisp with delightfully tingly acidity. Juicy peach and orange drizzled with lime and topped in sea salt, crust minerals and chalk dust. Love this stuff. 11.6% with less than 1% residual sugar. (90 points)

2014 Fox Run Vineyards Riesling Lot 11 Hanging Delta Vineyard- New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
Aromas of yellow apple, lemon, pineapple. Juicy, rich, sweet, tropical, honey-infused with graham cracker and oil notes, but it maintains freshness in spite of the richness. (87 points)

2014 Boundary Breaks Vineyard Riesling Dry No. 239- New York, Finger Lakes
Bright aromatic display of chalk, lime zest and lemon curd. Crisp and zesty with a salty, oceanic aesthetic. Limes, peach, chalk dust, pure and vibrant with a long, nervy finish. 11.6% alcohol, 0.9% residual sugar. (89 points)

2014 Boundary Breaks Vineyard Riesling No. 198 Reserve- New York, Finger Lakes
Nose of lime, lemon, floral perfume, lots of honey and deep floral tones. Precise on the palate, bold but balanced with vibrant acidity. Lemon/lime, pineapple, apricot, spiced apple. Balanced, rich, pure, delicious. 9% alcohol, about 7% residual sugar. (90 points)

2014 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Magdalena Vineyard- New York, Finger Lakes
Nose of rich guava and pineapple and some chalk dusty. Sugar cane and sea salt mix nicely on the palate, rich but pretty, with lots of peach and guava nectar as well as cantaloupe and honey. 12.5% alcohol, 0.8% residual sugar. (88 points)

2014 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Dry HJW Vineyard- New York, Finger Lakes
Nose shows lemon/lime, pineapple, oranges. Juicy and nectary but quite balanced with vibrant acidity. Guava, orange and apricot laced with honey and ginger. From a vineyard planted in 1977 on a plateau above Seneca Lake. (88 points)

Oregon

2015 Penner-Ash Riesling- Oregon, Willamette Valley
Deep nectar on the nose with honey and Teddy Graham cookies. Bold, plump texture but vibrant acidity. Honey, graham crackers and orange marmalade, lots of flavor but it’s tied together well. (88 points)

2015 Penner-Ash Riesling Old Vine Riesling Hyland Vineyard- Oregon, Willamette Valley, McMinnville
Aromas of lemon zest, lime peel, saline, tart apple. Fresh and lively with crisp acidity, lemon and cucumber water notes, some earthy spice notes as well. Refreshing and clean. (88 points)

2015 Chehalem Riesling Three Vineyard- Oregon, Willamette Valley
Nose shows lemons and limes with honeysuckle and chalk dust. Juicy palate, bold texture with honey, nuts, rich pineapple and peach but maintains crispness and vibrancy. Long finish with spiced apple notes. (87 points)

2014 Chehalem Riesling Wind Ridge- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
Nose shows lemons, limes, Granny Smith apple and chalk dust. Focused, off-dry, rich texture but crisp acidity. Oranges and apricot laced with quinine and minerals. Bold stuff but a lot of fun. 12.6% alcohol, 1.2% residual sugar. (88 points)

2014 Chehalem Riesling Corral Creek- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains
Bright and floral aromas with baby’s breath and oranges and peaches. Zesty acid, pure and mineral-laden, juicy fruit but vibrant. Peaches and guava mixed with honey and nougat and hints of herbal spice. Lingering finish of mineral water and mountain streams. 12.5% alcohol, 1% residual sugar. (89 points)

2016 Trisaetum Riesling Wichmann Dundee Estate- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
Rich aromas of honey, guava, canned peaches, clean laundry. Plump, rich and honeyed with guava and pineapple and whipped honey. Round and rich and sweet style, lacks a bit of verve but solid flavors. (85 points)

2016 Trisaetum Riesling Dry Wichmann Dundee Estate- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
A spicy kick on the nose with lots of lemons, melon rind and oils. Bold texture but crisp and very bright, I liked this a lot better than the sweet version. Quinine, chalk dust, minerals, honey, ginger, all on top of bright citrus fruit. Beautiful. (90 points)

2016 Trisaetum Riesling Dry Coast Range Estate- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
This wine blew me away, and I had to revisit it several times just to check my stoke factor, but I still loved it. So much depth on the nose: oranges, peaches, tons of floral complexity, lemongrass. Rich texture on the palate but so bright and refreshing. Honeycomb, quinine, jasmine, floral spice, guava nectar, peach juice – incredible complexity. I was convinced this was an Austrian ringer. Wow. (94 points)

2016 Trisaetum Riesling Ribbon Ridge Estate- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
Lots of depth on the nose with floral spice and cardamom. Bold texture, velvety, sugar cane, pineapple, baked apple, spiced tea. Like southern sweet tea in deliciousness, but not the freshest wine. (87 points)

Washington

2015 Charles & Charles Riesling Art Den Hoed Vineyard- Washington, Columbia Valley
Aromas of yellow apples, honey, lime, spiced tea. Creamy, waxy texture but bright acidity. Very pleasant yellow apple and lime fruit with a crusty mineral finish. 12% alcohol, 1.4% residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Sleight of Hand The Magician Evergreen Vineyard- Washington, Columbia Valley
Very sea-infused nose with lots of tropical fruit (guava, pineapple). Plump but quite dry with juicy oranges and pineapple, some baked apple and honey. Rich style and packed flavors but stays fresh. (87 points)

2014 Lauren Ashton Cellars Riesling- Washington, Columbia Valley
Aromas of honey, orange, peach and guava nectar. Rich and honeyed on the palate with plump, waxy fruit (peaches, apricot, guava), with hints of nuts and smoke. Chunky style but tasty. (85 points)

2015 Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica- Washington, Columbia Valley
On the nose, peaches, crushed sweet tarts and sea salt. Rich texture, sweetness balanced nicely with fresh acidity but this shows hedonistic notes too (honey, baked apple, spiced white tea). Lots going on. 12% alcohol, 1.2% residual sugar. (89 points)

2011 Rasa Vineyards Riesling The Lyricist- Washington, Columbia Valley
Nose of sweet oranges, yellow plums, honey and new tennis balls. Zesty and precise but also creamy and honeyed. Peaches, lime juice, laced with so many minerals. Complex, brisk, absolutely delicious, the depth and balance are so impressive. (92 points)

2013 Rasa Vineyards Riesling The Composer- Washington, Columbia Valley
New tennis ball smell on the nose, but also lots of honeysuckle, summer peaches, drizzled with lime. Bright and floral palate with mountain stream freshness and minerality. Oranges, limeade, honey, graham cracker. The complexity is absurd, but the balance is fantastic. Long, lingering, mineral-encrusted finish. Very impressive. (92 points)

2016 Nine Hats Riesling- Washington, Columbia Valley
Sweet flowers on the nose with orange blossom and sea salt. Bold honey and graham cracker on the palate but medium acidity keeps it fresh. Tastes like banana peel and crushed Sweet Tarts, but in the best way. For a $13 Riesling, this is really solid. 13.4% alcohol, 1.3% residual sugar. (87 points)

2015 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Poet's Leap- Washington, Columbia Valley
Never have I smelled a wine that smells more like banana Runts candy than this wine. Also some guava and honey. On the palate, this is fresh with lots of Sweet Tarts and, again, banana-flavored Runts candies. Floral, lots of spice, but so much sweet/tart candy notes. Fun, but not what I was expecting from this wine. I actually like the lesser “Nine Hats” wine just as much, but this was fun. 12.9% alcohol, 1.2% residual sugar. (87 points)

P.S.

One bottle of Gainey Riesling did not show properly at this tasting, but the other (notes below) showed beautifully. I accidentally left the Blakeslee Riesling at home the day of the tasting. But both of these producers sent wines for this tasting, so I wanted to include them. These were tasted sighted the next day.

2014 Blakeslee Vineyard Estate Riesling- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
Nose of peaches and papaya, lime, tennis balls, floral perfume. On the palate, this is pretty, vibrant and precise with light sweetness and crisp acid. White peaches, apricots, drizzled with limes, lots of floral tones, sea breeze, chalky minerals, just a touch of honey. Pretty, balanced, delish. (89 points)

2015 Gainey Riesling Limited Selection- California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Rich yellow color. Aromas of peach nectar, lime juice, also some lilies and honeysuckle with crushed sea shells. Bold texture on the palate but vibrant acidity, it tingles the palate, residual sugar balanced nicely. Pineapple and limes with honeycomb and an underlying sense of dusty minerals and pleasant salinity. Very curious how this would age. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Screw Winter, Drink Sauvignon Blanc

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

It’s the dead of winter here in the mid-Atlantic and crisp white wines might not be the first choice when you’re thinking of cracking open a bottle. But if you’re in the mood for seafood and salads, or you’re lucky enough to find yourself on a warm, sunny deck somewhere closer to the equator, California Sauvignon Blanc is a good call. 

These Cali Sauv Blancs comprise a diverse crew, showcasing different regional nuances and winemaking methods, and many of them are available for reasonable prices. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2013 Clayhouse Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Fumé Blanc Red Cedar Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $23
Bright gold color. Salty and airy on the nose, with lots of white flowers and bright perfume, some tropical fruits and honey. On the palate, crisp acid, a lively and bright approach, showing some oceanic notes. Sliced green and yellow apple fruit, mineral-driven but also lots of richness in the form of honeycomb and nougat. Lots of freshness, great balance between the zesty and the creamy. (89 points)

2013 Paul Dolan Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California, North Coast, Potter Valley
SRP: $18
Clear straw color. So vibrant on the nose with kiwi, papaya and lime, mixed in with floral and some honey notes. Very creamy on the palate, with zippy acid, the combination works very well. Flavors of papaya, kiwi and lime zest, I also get notes of gravelly road and white flowers, some honey on the finish. Lively and pretty, showing a lot of complexity and versatility. (90 points)

2013 Edna Valley Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $15
On the nose: papaya, wildflowers, melon and honey. Creamy, rich, fruity with cantaloupe, melon and honey accented by some white pepper and spice. Fleshy but tangy and impressive for the price. Even at $15, 2013 offers exciting Sauvignon Blanc. (87 points)

2013 Phifer Pavitt Sauvignon Blanc Date Night - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $30
Light golden color. Bright lemon-lime peel on the nose, some white cherries, grapefruit and guava, accented by hints of white and green pepper. Bright and zingy but some nice creaminess as well. Lime and grapefruit play off of guava and pineapple, and the fruit is dashed with some grass, white pepper and honeysuckle. Clean, fresh but good weight, very food-friendly. All stainless steel. (87 points)

2013 Clos du Val Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Clear lemon color. Aromas of white peach, nectarine, clean laundry, honeysuckle and mineral notes. Full on the palate but great acid keeps it balanced. White cherry, nectarine and mango fruit is dusted with chalk and spicy oregano. Dried honey and nutshell notes as well. Clean, crisp but complex with white tea on the finish. Delicious and impressive. (90 points)

2013 Amici Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Pale straw color. Fresh and vibrant on the nose with a fruit salad of white peach, nectarine, grapefruit and guava, along with notes of honeysuckle and a hint of white pepper. Full-bodied and creamy on the palate but held in by crisp acid. White peach, orange peel, pineapple and guava mix together with notes of honey, wax and white pepper. Rich yet clean and crisp and focused, with minerals and limestone on the finish. Showing lots of complexity and food-friendliness. (88 points)

2013 Atalon Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $21
Light straw color. Nose of white peaches, green apple slices and a good amount of grass and white pepper. Medium-bodied palate, moderate acid keeps it fresh as the white peach, green apples and kiwi flow in. Accented by honeysuckle, slight grass and hints of rocky stream and minerals. Fun and approachable, a middle-of-the-road style. Includes 9% Semillon. (86 points)

2012 Cockerell Family Wine Estates Sauvignon Blanc Le Petit Coquerel - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Pale straw color. Bright and inviting on the nose, a medley of white peach, guava and lemon peel mixed with white flowers, green pepper and some spicy oregano. The palate shows crisp acid and a moderately creamy body. The flavors of lemon zest, green apple and guava are complex and deep, laced with notes of sea salt, white pepper, floral perfume and oregano. Underlying notes of minerals and crushed chalk add complexity. All stainless steel. (88 points)

2012 Cockerell Family Wine Estates Sauvignon Blanc Terroir Coquerel - California, Napa Valley, Calistoga
SRP: $32
A pale straw color. Lots of chalk and crushed rocks and minerals on the nose, jumping out of the glass, over top of green apple, lemon and some papaya, a hint of honeyed white tea. Zesty acid on the palate, a clean but full approach on the palate. Sliced green apple, papaya drizzled with lime, I also get notes of quinine, crushed chalk and white tea. Hints of honey and hazelnut linger long onto the finish. Complex and forward but maintains elegance and freshness. Very impressive. Fermented in 10% new oak. (91 points)

California Pinot Noirs Shine in 2012

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Lots of winemakers from across California have praised the 2012 vintage. The more Pinot Noirs from 2012 I taste, the more I understand their joy. Since my last post on California Pinot Noirs this summer, I’ve tasted a bunch of them with a few gems.

This report features a few exciting wines from 2012, as well as some from the leaner, tangier 2011 vintage, and a pair of late releases from 2009.

All these wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind unless otherwise noted.

2012 Tolosa Winery Pinot Noir Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

SRP: $32

Bright ruby color. Smells like rose hips, pepper and green herbs sprinkled on top of cranberries and wild strawberries. Medium-bodied with light tannins and a smooth and silky approach. Crunchy red berry fruit, some cherry pie, mix in some pepper, rhubarb and cardamom. Roses and vanilla coffee on the finish. Smooth and creamy and delicious, nice mix of fruit and earthy flavors. Aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (87 points)

2012 Niner Wine Estates Pinot Noir Edna Valley - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

SRP: $35

Dark ruby/light purple color. Nose shows roasted plums, juicy black cherries, some clove, cinnamon and sweet violets. On the palate, the wine is somehow both smooth and chewy at the same time, boasting tons of fruit (black cherries, blackberries, strawberry pie) velvety and smooth but rich. I love the clove, dark chocolate and sweet cola notes, but I also get some graphite and tobacco elements that add complexity. Delicious, open for business, but not a simple fruit bomb. Spends 10 months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2012 Dragonette Cellars Pinot Noir Radian Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

SRP: $54

Dark ruby colored. Aromas pop out of the glass: red cherries, sweet cranberry sauce, notes of cola, rose petals and spicy incense sticks. On the palate, red and black cherries, red currants, the fruit is juicy but tart and laced with graphite, tobacco and coffee. Saucy, rich and bold but kept fresh by medium acid. Long finish of cola, soy sauce and loamy soil. Deep, long, complex, plenty of time to unwind. Aged 15 months in 22% new French oak. (91 points)

2011 Isabel Mondavi Pinot Noir - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $40

Bright ruby-purple color in the glass. Nose shows red and black currants, some sweet roses, earth and cedar tones, a bit of caramel. On the palate, this wine shows a creamy, silky mouthfeel, medium tannins and acid, and the combination leads the wine to glide across the palate. Fresh currants, red and black cherries, the fruit is pure and layered. Notes of fall leaves, sage and chestnut round add a good twist. I also get some mineral and black tea elements. I’d drink this in the near term because it’s so fresh and lively, but it’s high quality stuff. (90 points)

2012 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $35

Light ruby color. On the nose I get bright cherries, raspberries, roses and violets along with sweet clove, cola and roasted coffee. Medium tannin, in sync with the acid, this wine has a mouthfeel made of equal parts dusty, chewy and smooth. The black cherry, plums and raspberry fruit is tart but quite ripe, backed up by notes of coffee, caramel, shaved dark chocolate and black tea. A wide-open Pinot with a lot of attractive qualities. Aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. (88 points)

2012 Paul Dolan Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, North Coast, Potter Valley

SRP: $30

Bright medium ruby color. Chilled strawberries and raspberries on the nose, lovely rose and potting soil notes, some slight herbal notes. Bright and lively on the palate, with fine tannins, medium acid and a mouthfeel equal parts zesty and silky. Juicy, cool, with notes of sweet herbs, cola, and dusty soil, tobacco. Complex yet more restrained in character, although not lacking in flavor or personality. (90 points)

2009 Clos De La Tech Pinot Noir Domaine Lois Louise - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $42

Light cherry colored. On the nose I get red currants and strawberries, a hint of blueberry, with some notes of underbrush, clay soil, roses and sweet cinnamon. On the palate, tart acid combines with some reasonably tight tannins yet a smooth mouthfeel. Black cherries, currants, some tart blueberries, this is also a deeply floral wine with accents of dusty soil, dark chocolate, smoke and toast. Great concentration, cellar-worthy, but maintains smoothness and elegance despite the new oak. I’d love to try this again in four or five years. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak and two-and-a-half years in bottle before release. (90 points)

2009 Clos De La Tech Pinot Noir Domaine Valeta Sunny Slope - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $62

More forward on the nose, jumps out of the glass with strawberries and raspberries, also some sweet floral perfume, dandelion, tilled soil and a hint of grilled herbs. Fine tannins, still very structured, moderate acid for balance. Ripe red cherries and strawberries abound, not as smoky or earthy as the Domaine Louise, much more floral and fresh with violets, black tea and potpourri. All sorts of sweet and spicy notes that need time to grow into their own. Focused but still structured, the end result is an elegant wine with cellar capability. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak and two-and-a-half years in bottle before release. (91 points)

2011 Foppiano Pinot Noir Estate - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $35

Vibrant ruby color. Juicy raspberries and tart cherries on the nose, laced with lots of herbs and spices (rhubarb, white pepper, sage) and a sweet floral accent. Bright and crunchy on the palate, but bold as mouth-coating as well, with a nice mix of tangy cherries and rich black cherries and plums. Lots of white pepper, rhubarb, spicy oregano, backed up by some light roast coffee, roses and loamy soil. A Pinot Noir that covers all the bases, and does it well. Aged in French oak, 25% new. (90 points)

2012 Gundlach Bundschu Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $37

Light medium ruby color. Vibrant cherries on the nose, cool currants, some charcoal and clove mixed in with caramel. Full and fruity on the palate with chewy tannins and medium+ acid. Pure black cherries and tart blueberries, add in some earth, gravel. and dusty library notes with cocoa powder and vanilla cola. Silky, velvety, with a long and rich finish. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2011 Hatton Daniels Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $45

Light ruby colored. Lots of earth and spices elements on the nose (rose hips, sage, white pepper, dusty soil) over top of tart cranberries and wild strawberries. On the palate, this is bright and crisp with focused acid and fine-grained tannins. The cranberry, wild cherry and raspberry fruit is crunchy and juicy, and I pick up a range of non-fruit complexities: sage, oregano, cedar, light-roast coffee. Some toffee and vanilla but slight and woven in well. Long, clean with roses and lavender on the finish. Lighter bodied than the 2012 but still very complex. (90 points)

2012 Hatton Daniels Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $45

Clean light ruby colored. Gorgeous nose of rose and violet-tinged earth, dusted over top of red cherry and plum fruit of the tangy and vibrant variety. So alive on the palate with tart acid, dusty tannins of medium strength a silky but fresh mouthfeel. Red currants, cherries, crunchy plums accented by sweet pipe tobacco, fennel, sage. Underlying notes of cherry fountain soda and dried roses. Complex and full yet reserved and so food-friendly. Seems ready now but has the ability to develop for sure. 13.2% alcohol. (91 points)

2012 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $54

Moderate ruby color. Smells savory and bright at the same time, with red currants, mulled raspberries, juicy wild strawberries, some rhubarb pie, notes of chewing tobacco and pine sap.

On the palate, a forward style full of raspberry jam, wild strawberries and some cherry-rhubarb pie. Velvety tannins, medium acid, the fruit is juicy and chewy, backed up by spice and smoke notes. The fruit is a bit sweeter and jammier than the other Sonoma Coast pinots in this group, but it’s balanced a bit by the acid and non-fruit qualities. Notes of caramel and chestnut (50% new oak) linger onto the finish. Drinks well now but could do well over the next few years. A bold style, but very well done. (91 points)

2012 Sojourn Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $54

Vibrant dark ruby colored. Aromas of black cherries and saucy plums, add in some cola, cinnamon and clove, some smoke and earth. Firm tannic structure, some medium acid. Deep, concentrated core of fruit (black cherry and blackberry) a bit roasted but still tart. I also get some charcoal pit, roasted nuts, loamy soil and spice elements (maybe clove and black licorice). Initially this struck me as a bit too intense, but air tones it down. Long, velvety and nutty (50% new oak) on the finish. I’d lay off this for two years or so. A beautiful albeit boisterous Pinot. (92 points)

I'd never heard of this producer before. I'm paying attention now.

2012 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $59

Clear-bright ruby. Nose of cranberries and wild cherries, some roses, white pepper, pickle, clove and cinnamon notes blend in well, adding nuance and complexity to the aromatic package. A very bright and clean Pinot, with dusty tannins of moderate strength and lively acid that whisks the wine over the palate. Bright cherries, wild strawberries, some spiced cranberry jam, elements of tobacco and rose hips blend with mocha and toasted nuts. Seems ready to go, but will surely improve and unwind over the next few years. Aged 11 months in 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir Vin Gris - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $29

This rosé was tasted sighted. Pale salmon color. Amazingly fresh on the nose, with wild strawberry and watermelon rind, some crusted, salty jetty rocks (a scent I know well. Very crisp acid but the fruit is generous and rolls across the palate in waves: white cherries, strawberries, key lime, some richer papaya and melon chunks. Underlying mineral notes pop out from the fruit while salty notes come out on the finish. Racy, clean, a very exciting rosé. (90 points)

Campovida Finds a Sense of Place in Mendocino

Photo courtesy of Campovida.

Campovida isn’t just a winery. It’s a 13-acre organic garden, a community supported agriculture program, a 10-room center for corporate retreats, a meeting space for “meaningful conversations.” Based in the small Mendocino County town of Hopland, the Campovida property once comprised the Fetzer Valley Oaks Food and Wine Center. The Campovida website is full of poetic musings about sustainable living, community, a sense of place. One thing you won’t find is a way to buy the wines. Yep, Campovida is a different kind of outfit.

The folks behind this project are wife-husband duo Anna Beuselinck and Gary Breen. Originally from Oakland, the couple bought the closed facility in 2006 and got to work. They must’ve been quite busy over the last few years.

Despite all the time I’ve spent in Mendocino County, I knew nothing about this project before I opened Campovida’s wines a few weeks ago. The wines (five whites and a rosé) were received as trade samples and I tasted all of them sighted. These wines were made by Sebastian Donoso. Born in Chile, Sebastian studied enology at Fresno State and made wine for Sacina before joining Campovida in 2012. (Click here for a Terroirist interview with Sebastian.)

As I tasted through the wines, I started to second-guess my senses. Was I really picking up all this freshness, acidity and minerality? But after thoroughly swirling and tasting, the wines had won me over. My notes…

2011 Campovida Viognier Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $34

A yellow-gold color in the glass. On the nose, this bright wine explodes with lime and white flowers, green apple and a rocky, mineral aroma like some sort of mountain spring. A full-bodied palate provides weight to the tangy lime and apple fruit. A real sense of richness from the honeycomb and nougat, but it’s balanced by white tea, mineral notes and medium acid. Impressive stuff. (89 points)

2012 Campovida Chardonnay Oppenlander Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $36

Light yellow color. Perfumed and elegant on the nose, with white flowers, lime, mineral, sea spray, almost Chablis-like in its oceanic approach. The acid rips across the palate. The green apple, lime and tangerine rind fruit is tangy and intense, and the level of minerals in this wine is really awesome. What a brisk, fresh wine that speaks to the terroir of the Mendocino Coast. Singing now, but I’d actually like to set this down for two or three years to see what happens. (90 points)

2012 Campovida Roussanne Bonofiglio Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $32

Light gold color. Lovely perfumed nose of banana, white peach, circus peanut candy and lavender. Plump on the palate with a waxy mouthfeel, balanced with soft acid. I like the combination of tropical fruit (banana, mango and papaya) with these notes of lanolin and candle wax. Slightly nutty but not fat. Long finish. (88 points)

2012 Campovida Campo di Blanca Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $32

The nose blends brighter tones of lime, orange and flowers with richer honeycomb, melted butter and hazelnut, and the combination is lovely. Rich on the palate but balanced by tangy acid and some fresh minerals. I get lots of pear, bruised apple and honey, and there’s a nutty and waxy feel to this wine, which isn’t overdone. A buttery aspect lingers on the finish, but the acid doesn’t stop. Richer than some of the other whites, but still balanced and delightful. A blend of 67% Marsanne, 22% Viognier and 11% Roussanne.  (91 points)

2012 Campovida Arneis Spirit Ranch Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $36

Very perfumed on the nose, with all sorts of citrus and flowers. The palate shows lemon, orange and apricot, along with some more tropical notes of pineapple and green melon. The acid shines through all the way, giving the wine an airy feel despite the ripe fruit. A white tea and honey flavor lingers on the finish. A Northern Italian grape has found a good home in Mendocino. (89 points)

Behold, an amazing pink!

2012 Campovida Rosé di Grenache Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $34

A radiant copper-salmon color with the faintest spritz in the glass. Fresh aromas of watermelon, ruby red grapefruit, wildflowers and a subtle herbal note. Crisp acid kicks off the palate. The wild strawberry and white cherry fruit is snappy and fresh rather than ripe and sweet, and the minerals add to this wine’s overall verve. I also get some white pepper and grapefruit rind notes. Pure and delicious, this is one of the best domestic roses I’ve had in a long time. The Grenache comes from Trail’s End Vineyard in the Potter Valley appellation. At 1,000 feet in a relatively cool area, Grenache grapes don’t ripen as quickly, says winemaker Sebastian Denoso, allowing for lower sugar and more focused acid. (91 points)

If you’re in the Bay Area and looking to try Campovida’s wines, you’re in luck. In April, they opened a tasting room in Oakland called the Taste of Place. Located at 95 Linden Street, it’s open from 5-9 on Thursdays and Fridays and 1-6 on Saturdays and Sundays. “Going to Oakland has been a return to our own roots and beginnings of starting our lives as a family,” said Anna Beuselinck, “as well as connecting the urban and rural worlds.”

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Mendocino Dreaming: Surfing and Sipping Parducci Wines

Cold, remote and rugged, the Mendocino Coast is full of empty (and sharky) surf spots.

Wine and waves are two of my favorite things in life. On a recent trip to Mendocino County, California, I got to enjoy both in the same day.

I was visiting with friends and family in Potter Valley, a small inland enclave that’s home to an increasing amount of vineyards. My mother, father, brother, sister and I all got up well before dawn and loaded up the car. My brother drove us up steep mountain roads lined with redwoods until we reached the coast. I’ve spent a lot of time in Mendocino — it’s one of my favorite places on the planet so far — but each time I catch a glimpse of the rugged, rocky coast, my stomach knots up with excitement.

The remote beach we chose was populated only by a handful of sleeping hippies. My brother and I suited up and paddled out into 50-degree waves. We surfed some frigid five-to-six foot beauties as the sun rose over the mountains to the west. After a few hours, I couldn’t feel my feet or move my lips, but I was in a state of complete bliss. Later that morning we hit up at a beach break at the mouth of the Big River and caught another hour’s worth of solid waves. When we couldn’t surf any more, we packed up the car and head inland.

A hillside Sauvignon Blanc vineyard in Potter Valley, Medoncino.

The next stop was Ukiah, home to one of my favorite Mendocino County winemakers, Parducci. I’ve spent many hours in the Parducci tasting room, sipping from their wide array of wines, touring the vineyards and winery. Still, Parducci is one of those places I’ll always come back to. Even though Parducci is a large producer, their tasting room is totally Mendocino: laid back, rustic, calm. I wore sandy flip-flops and a death metal T-shirt while others wore dusty boots and tank tops, and no one gave a damn. My tasting crew had grown to ten, including a baby in tow, and we all crowded around the bar to taste through Parducci’s portfolio. The tasting room attendant took care of our group like a pro, serving up decent-sized pours, answering questions, telling stories.

We started off with a few wines from Parducci’s Paul Dolan label, which is focused on organic and biodynamic fruit. Generally, the winery strives for organic grapes in most of their wines, but Paul Dolan wines fully embrace organic viticulture and winemaking. Paul Dolan also embraces the Potter Valley appellation on some of their labels. Much of the fruit from Potter goes into blends that sport a simple Mendocino County label, so it’s nice to see a producer trying to get the name of this appellation out there. I may be biased because I’ve spent a lot of time in Potter Valley and loved every minute of it, but I really think this is a special winegrowing region. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir do very well here in the dry climate and long growing season. It gets hot during the summer, which allows the fruit to grow plenty ripe, but during my July trip the temperature dropped 45 degrees at night, which helps the wines maintain crisp acidity.

Here are my thoughts on the Parducci wines I tasted…

N.V. Paul Dolan Vineyards Brut - Mendocino County ($27)
Paul Dolan’s done a great job making a Mendocino Brut at a very reasonable price. This blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay smells of lemon, lime and freshly baked biscuits, a hint of butter. The palate is loaded with minerals and acid, backed up by crisp lime and green apple fruit. Very focused with delicate brioche and lemon butter undertones. Brisk, long finish. I’m impressed. (90 points)

2011 Paul Dolan Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - Mendocino County, Potter Valley ($18)
It’s nice to see Paul Dolan embracing the Potter Valley label. This Sauvignon Blanc is a good example of what Potter can do with this grape. The wine smells of guava, honey, some flowers and just a whiff of chive. Juicy guava on the palate but the grapefruit and lemon flavors are zesty. I really appreciate the zippy acid and high minerality in this wine. Just a hint of grass, but this isn’t your average lawnmower New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. (88 points)

2011 Paul Dolan Vineyards Chardonnay - Mendocino County ($18)
Aromas of white flowers, brisk lemon and honey. Creamy on the palate with notes of whipped honey and nougat, but the citrus fruit keeps it tangy and balanced. A nice mineral tinge to the finish. Aged for five months in 15% new French oak and 85% stainless steel, giving the final wine a combination of richness and crispness. Well-done stuff. (88 points)

2010 Paul Dolan Vineyards Zinfandel - Mendocino County ($25)
Lots of stuff going on aromatically: a burst of wild strawberry and blackberry, mocha, pepper and an aroma that reminds me of dried hay or a briar patch or something. Anyway, it smells good. Loads of plums on the palate, a bit raisined perhaps, but not too much. Creamy tannins and medium acid come together to make this easy to sip and enjoy. Big, but not too overbearing. (87 points)

2010 Paul Dolan Vineyards Pinot Noir - Mendocino County, Potter Valley ($38)
Hey, this looks like Pinot! Light ruby color. A cranberry focus on the nose, along with spicy pepper notes, earth and sweet lavender. Beautifully aromatic and deserving of more than a tasting room sniff. On the palate, the acid is wonderfully brisk. Fine, creamy tannins support the fresh cranberry and cherry fruit. This shows some really interesting savory and earthy tones, and a bacon note lingers on the long finish. Elegant and light (with a moderate 13.5% alcohol content) but not simple in any way. I know Anderson Valley gets all the love, but I’m really digging Potter Pinot Noir. This wine is aged 19 months in 23% new oak barrels. (91 points)

I appreciate the way Parducci produces a range of wines at all sorts of price points. Their cheaper labels like the Small Lot Blends and Sketchbook are frequently good buys. I was also happy that the True Grit Petite Sirah made a showing at this tasting, as I’ve enjoyed previous vintages. In fact, it’s high up there on my list of best California Petite Sirahs.

2011 Parducci Pinot Noir Small Lot – California ($14)
I rarely recommend $14 Pinot Noirs. Well, here’s one. Light cranberry color is the first good sign. On the nose, strawberry jam mixes with rhubarb and subtle pepper. Fine tannins, crisp acid, a light and tangy approach. Strawberry and raspberry fruit with notes of vanilla and caramel. It’s not the most complex Pinot, but it does what it does very well. Harmonious and crowd-pleasing, it seems everyone at the tasting enjoyed this wine. (87 points)

2010 Parducci Cabernet Sauvignon Small Lot - Mendocino County ($14)
A combination of black and green pepper kicks off the nose, but there are also some saucy black cherry and currant aromas. Very creamy and silky on the palate with soft tannins for a Cabernet and medium acid. Currant and plum fruit is dusted with loam, bell pepper and toasty notes. Easy-drinking and a good Cab for $14. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petite Verdot. (85 points)

2010 Parducci Grenache Reserve - Mendocino County ($27)
A cranberry-plum color with thick legs in the glass. Dense on the nose, rather closed at first. I let it sit, swirled it around, and started getting raspberries, caramel and spice notes. Rich but juicy on the palate. Nice mix of blueberry and cranberry fruit, along with hazelnut, tobacco and loam. This wine tasted riper and more forward than the other wines in this tasting, but it holds its ripeness well. Huge flavor packed in here. This is a really young wine that could benefit from a long decant or some cellar time. Aged 20 months in seasoned French and American oak. (88 points)

2010 Parducci Petite Sirah True Grit - Mendocino County ($29)
This is the best True Grit Petite Sirah I’ve tasted so far. Inky black-purple color with thunder thighs in the glass. Huge nose of blackberry puree and boysenberry but there are also some potpourri and lavender aromas that rock. Dense and lush on the palate with firm, grippy tannins. The plum and boysenberry fruit is rich and pure, and accented by notes of grilled steak, earth and charcoal. Long, dusty finish. This is a really young wine that would benefit from a decant, but it’s beautiful stuff. One of the best Petite Sirahs I’ve had in a long time. (91 points)

2010 Parducci Port Reserve - Mendocino County ($30)
Big and sweet on the nose, with prunes, plum cake, vanilla wafers and rich mocha. Actually quite silky on the palate, with medium tannins. Fig paste, prunes and brandied plums on the palate, with notes of caramel and nuts. A little heat from the alcohol, but it’s not too bad. Everyone at the tasting enjoyed this wine. Bring on the bleu cheese. A unique blend of 50% Souzao, 20% Tinta Cao, 17.5% fortified brandy and 12.5% Touriga Nacional. (88 points)

See you in Mendocino!