Virginia Wine Continues to Excite with 2017 Governor's Cup Winners

There are so many high-quality, delicious, diverse wines coming out of Virginia, more so year after year. If you don’t already know this, are you sure you like wine?

I have a complex relationship with Virginia wine, having tasted it for about a decade (and reviewed hundreds of Virginia wines, more than from any other state spare California). I’ve tasted a lot of bad or mediocre but overpriced wines from Virginia – a lot.

But, if you stick with some tried-and-true producers (Barboursville, Linden, Glen Manor, King Family, Veritas, etc., etc.) and keep an open mind to exciting new producers, you will find serious and delicious wines, and a thriving wine scene that offers a lot of excitement and diversity.

And with hundreds of wineries, it can be a bit daunting if you’re looking to get into Virginia wines. Luckily, each year, the Commonwealth makes a big deal about their wines with the Virginia Governor’s Cup. It’s a huge wine competition, judged by an experienced and highly-respected panel, and they release a Governor’s Case each year, the top 12 wines from the blind-tastings. I’ve been tasting these wines for five or six years now, and it’s always a fun and enlightening experience, a refresher on what’s going on in Virginia wine country. Some of my favorite Virginia producers don’t submit wines to the competition, but these 12 wines still represent some of the best Virginia has on offer.

These 12 wines are also a good way to dissect some of the “trends” in Virginia wine. Like the emergence of varietal Petit Verdot wines as serious contenders for best red in the state. The honing and perfecting of Bordeaux red blends, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc continuing to do very impressive stuff. And then there are the dry and sweet versions of Petit Manseng (perhaps my favorite grape in Virginia). There’s a lot out there.

If you want more information on the Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition and the case, here’s their site.

I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them all sighted.

2016 Horton Vineyards Viognier - Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County
SRP: $20
Rich yellow color. Aromas of mango, bruised apple, some spiced tea, honey butter and flowers. Creamy texture with medium-low acidity and a waxy texture, balanced quite well though. Honey, butter and nougat on top of bruised apples and pear, mixed in with some cinnamon, vanilla and floral potpourri. Tasted blind, I’m convinced I would’ve guessed Chardonnay, but this is quite tasty. Includes 6% Petit Manseng. (87 points)

2014 Valley Roads Vineyards Petit Verdot - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $37
Deep purple color. Nose shows tart black currants, smoky black cherries, along with pepper, tar, campfire, anise and espresso. Medium+ bodied, the tannic grip is there but fresh acidity makes it silky. Tangy black cherries and currants, delicious, ripe but crunchy, and the fruit is laced with smoky charcoal, anise, coffee, wet soil and asphalt notes. There’s some deep mineral tones underneath, and while the flavors are bold, there’s such a pretty, smooth mouthfeel. I wager this will improve for five to eight years. (89 points)

2014 Ingleside Petit Verdot - Virginia, Chesapeake Bay, Northern Neck
SRP: $38
Rich purple color. Beautiful aromatics of black cherries, roasted plums, currant compote, along with waves of violets, potting soil, leather, spicy clove and coffee – Serious grip to the tannins but the wine is moderated by vibrant acidity, which keeps it balanced with the crunchy blackberry and boysenberry fruit. Lots of leaves, leather, clove and charcoal elements, some violets and pencil shavings as well. Long time ahead for this wine, but very impressive and it really opens up with air. Aged 18 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2014 Veritas Vineyard Petit Verdot Paul Shaffer 6th Edition - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $40
Very dark ruby color. Aromas of spicy pepper, bay leaf, oregano, on top of tart black currants and black cherries. Medium-bodied on the palate with some sturdy grip to the tannins and medium acidity. Tart black currants and black cherries mix well with graphite, charcoal, anise, black pepper, sweet vanilla. Tangy but rich, sturdy but fresh, I like the combination of earthy spice and floral tones on the finish. This has years of improvement but shows well in its youth. Aged 15 months in 45% new oak. (88 points)

2014 King Family Vineyards Petit Verdot - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $36
Very deep ruby color. Smells like tart but sweet black currants, laced with cocoa, anise, violets, magic marker, dark chocolate and vanilla. Nice grip on the tannins, vibrant acidity frames the wine, and it’s packed with tangy black cherries, blueberry skins and tart plums. Mix in some smoky charcoal, coffee, graphite, loam, mineral tones, and this is a bright but deep PV with solid aging potential. Aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Jefferson Vineyards Petit Verdot - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $25
Dark ruby color. Smells like crunchy red and black currants, mixed with cola, black pepper, anise and deep earthy tones. Medium+ body with solid tannic bite and refreshing acidity. The black currant and lingonberry jam fruit blends nicely with spiced coffee, charcoal, black licorice, roasted herbs. Great structure for at least five years of improvement, this is tart but deep wine that would both be great with a steak, while the acidity would help this cut through lots of lighter foods. (88 points)

2014 The Barns at Hamilton Station Cabernet Sauvignon - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $28
Light purple color. I get aromas of currant jam, raspberries, sweet cola, anise cookies. Surprising tannic grip on the palate with medium acidity. Tart plum and currant fruit mixes with tobacco, earth, charred wood. A bit austere, could use some time to unwind, but a tasty Cabernet. Aged 15 months in French and American oak. (85 points)

2012 Breaux Vineyards Meritage - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $48
Medium purple color. Aromas of crushed blackberries, spicy currants, along with tobacco leaf, sage, dusty earth, incense. Grippy tannins mix with vibrant acidity on a medium-bodied frame, accessible but structured well. Black cherries and red/black currants are juicy but showing a little bit of age (in a good way), with more subtlety. The fruit is emblazoned with chewing tobacco, mint, eucalyptus, coffee, some (but not too much) charred wood. I also get some earthy, mineral tones. The fruit will fade before the tannins do but this has time ahead of it for sure. (40% Merlot, 40% Malbec, with Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. (90 points)

2014 Michael Shaps Meritage - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $50
Medium purple color. Aromas show waves of currants and plums, clove and menthol, and a great mix of charcoal, clay soil, violets and anise – wow, these aromas evolve and shift wonderfully with air. Gorgeous balance on the palate with sturdy tannins and crisp acidity, along with fresh but deep black currant, plums and cherry fruit. I love the complex anise, menthol, charcoal, earth and spice rub elements. I also get some cedar/coffee, deep violets. Complex, gorgeous mouthfeel, I love this now but it’ll be stellar in five to eight years. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (92 points)

2012 Barboursville Vineyards Paxxito - Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County
SRP: $32
Golden colored. Rich aromas of glazed apricot, orange marmalade, sweet yellow flowers, honey, some lamp oil – great stuff. Plump texture, richly sweet with a bit of acidity to help keep it together. Orange and apricot jams, glazed yellow apples, juicy and delicious with notes of honey, mint, sweet tea, hints of caramel and floral perfume. Really well-rounded stuff, quite complex, a seriously good Virginia dessert wine. Made from a blend of Moscato Ottonel and Vidal grapes. (88 points)

2014 King Family Vineyards Petit Manseng Loreley - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Blue Ridge Foothills
SRP: $26
Golden orange color. Aromas of peach nectar, honeycomb, floral shampoo and olive oil. Plump and sweet on the palate but some moderating acidity (always nice from this grape), balances it out quite nicely. Creamy pear, apple pie, orange marmalade flavors, backed up by candied ginger, lemon meringue, almond bars and brown sugar. Lovely example of the quality of Petit Manseng dessert wines coming out of Virginia. 10% residual sugar, 13.5% alcohol. (88 points)

2014 Veritas Vineyard Petit Manseng - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $27
Deep gold color. Aromas of honey, nougat, sweet yellow raisins, daisies, baked apple tart – really lovely-smelling stuff. Plump texture on the palate with flavors of yellow raisins, yellow plums, honey, sweet tea, graham cracker and cinnamon. The flavors all work so well together, as does the rich texture and sweetness with the bright acidity that is key with this grape in Virginia. A lovely example of a style of dessert wines that I hope more people begin to recognize. 14.2% alcohol. (89 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Hillsborough Vineyards: High Quality Virginia Wine from Loudoun County

Shades of green welcome visitors to the rolling hills of Loudoun County's wine country.

The Virginia wine scene has exploded in the 10 years or so that I’ve been paying attention. More and more wineries are popping up all over the state (in 2016, the state boasted more than 285). Virginia wineries sold more than 6.5 million bottles in fiscal year 2016, and sales have increased by 34 percent since 2010.

Living in the DC area, I make sporadic trips to Virginia wineries (in addition to tasting many more for reports on this blog and the daily wine site Terroirist.). But, with so many excellent producers, it’s getting harder and harder to keep up.

On a sunny day in May, I made a trek to Hillsborough Vineyards, nestled among the beautiful rolling hills of Loudoun County, to taste their new releases. I brought my toddler and a group of friends, and we spent a lovely afternoon tasting and chasing my kid through the vineyards. I knew I was in for solid Virginia vino, as I had tasted several Hillsborough wines not long before the trip. But the beauty of the location and the overall high quality of the wines still impressed me.

Cellar Master and Tasting Room Manager Jim Koennicke poured our group a range of Hillsborough wines and walked us through some history of the estate, its founders, and what makes their site unique. Hillsborough was founded by husband-wife duo Bora and Zeynep Baki, who hail from Turkey. They fell in love with the site that is now Hillsborough and set the building blocks for a boutique winery, which was finished in 2003. Today, the estate’s 36 acres contain 12 acres planted to vines, split into three vineyards. Winemaker Kerem Baki, who studied biochemistry and enology at Virginia Tech, keeps the family tradition going with some absolutely delicious wines.

Fascinating tidbit: Hillsborough is home to perhaps the only wine in the U.S. made solely from the Fer Servadou grape, which is indigenous to Southwest France. If this wine is any sign, this grape seems to do very well in Virginia’s humid climate, and I look forward to seeing if anyone else gives it a shot.  

If you live in the Washington, DC, area, I highly recommend a visit. It’s a beautiful area to hike and explore, and the wines will not disappoint. My notes on the wines I tasted are below…

Scoping out the vineyards at Hillsborough.

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Carnelian - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$24

Nose of juicy apple and bright floral notes. Salty and peachy and spicy with lots of floral elements. 100% Roussanne, this is a crisp and bright Virginia interpretation of this grape. All stainless steel. (87 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Petit Manseng Opal - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$28

Aromas of honey, peach nectar, bright white flowers and herbal spice notes. Creamy, lovely texture on the palate with bright acidity. The peach and apricot fruit mixes with honeycomb, saline and chalky mineral notes. A gorgeous Virginia Petit Manseng. (90 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Merlot Rosé - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$26

For a rose, this is so dark ruby colored. Smells super-fruity with raspberry and strawberry jams. Bright but lots of fruit, shows wide appeal and zesty elements to keep it fresh. (86 points)

2013 Hillsborough Vineyards Syrah - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$28

On the nose this is smoky, peppery and earthy with bright red berries. Plump but bright on the palate with structured tannins and lots of freshness. Not super complex, but nice bright red fruits with pepper and smoke. (87 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Ruby's Blush - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$26

Sweet floral perfume and candied cherry aromas. Fruity and fun but not too sweet. A blend of 20% apiece of Tannat, Petit Verdot, Fer, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (85 points)

2013 Hillsborough Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Vintners Selection - Virginia, Northern Virginia

$32

Nose shows lots of spicy pepper and leather on top of red currants. Plush and silky with strawberry and red cherry fruit mixed with savory herbs. Lighter style, but fresh and tasty. Includes 13% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in French oak and one in bottle before release. (86 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Moonstone Late Harvest - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$26

So much honey and pineapple and flowers on the nose. Rich but not cloying on the palate with lots of juicy pineapple and peach, notes of floral spice.  All late harvest Viognier with 5% residual sugar. (87 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Bloodstone - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$N/A

Such a spicy aromatic display with tart black currant, black pepper, leather, clove, sage and herbal liqueur. Juicy and tart with so much complex spice flavors (black pepper, beef broth, clove, grilled herbs). Unique flavor profile but some nice black currant fruit that balances out the spice. 100% Fer Servadou, which is supposedly the only such wine made solely from this variety in the United States. There’s another small vineyard of this grape nearby, but maybe there’s a bigger future for this grape in Virginia? (89 points)

2016 Virginia Governor's Cup Winners Prove VA Wine is Legit

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

I’ve been tasting the best of the Virginia Governor’s Cup wines for a few years now, and the 2016 winners are the best bunch yet. This year, judges winnowed their top 12 from about 430 bottles for the Virginia Governor’s Cup Case.

The current batch of winners provides a great way to explore what is happening in this dynamic wine-producing state. While some of my favorite producers do not submit wines for the competition (Linden, RdV), there are plenty of intriguing and delicious Virginia wines deserving of recognition.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng Honah Lee - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

For my palate, this is the cream of the crop.

SRP: $30
A vibrant gold color in the glass. The aromas in this wine are rocking my face off: lemon curd, candied orange peel, honeyed tea, and a salty meets floral combination that I love. A bold texture the palate (14.6% alcohol) but the acid screams across the palate and keeps this wine precise and vibrant. Orange marmalade meets lemon curd meets white peach, and then there are these complex elements of apricot jam, honeycomb, creamsicle, not to mention the crunchy sea salt and floral perfume notes. So complex, so balanced, an absolutely delicious and fascinating wine, and one of my favorite wines from Virginia. Fermented in 1/3 new French oak barrels, no maloactic fermentation. (91 points)

2014 Horton Vineyards Petit Manseng - Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County
SRP: $25
Light gold color. Smells of chunky mango and pineapple, but also some bright honeysuckle, dandelion and a hint of waxy nuttiness. Medium-plus-bodied this is a chunky, almost chewy wine in terms of mouthfeel, but the acids sweeps in and cleans the wine up (love this about Petit Manseng). Rich flavors of peach, pineapple and melon, topped with honey, orange marmalade, spiced tea and mint flavors. Complex, straight delicious, but also vibrant and clean. Long, rich, yet crisp finish with flavors that remind me of Sweet Tarts. Another great example of why I continue to be thrilled about Virginia Petit Manseng. (88 points)

2014 Bluestone Vineyard Chardonnay Estate Grown - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. Bright and lively aromatics with lemon curd, orange peel and limes accented with richer elements of honeysuckle and graham cracker. Medium-bodied with a round and creamy texture but crisp acidity for balance. Lemon meringue blends with papaya and pineapple in this juicy display, and notes of nougat and honeyed white tea round it out. Fermented and aged in French oak (20% new) with maloactic fermentation. (87 points)

2014 Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino Reserve - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $22
Light straw color. Bursts with aromas of white peach, green apples and lime zest, lots of floral and sea salt aromas mixed in as well, is a bright and breezy but interesting aromatic display. Medium-bodied at 13% alcohol, this has refreshing acidity but a generous mouthfeel (slightly creamy, slightly waxy). Flavors of white peach, green melon and lime zest combine with elements of white tea, honeysuckle, raw almond and crusty sea salt. This is a delicious but seriously intriguing white wine. Served blind, this would excite and confuse many a wine nerd with its complexity and diversity of elements. Worth seeking out for the adventurous white wine drinker. All stainless steel with lees stirring over the course of eight months. (88 points)

2014 Cardinal Point Cabernet Franc Clay Hill - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $30

Deep ruby color. Smells of spicy tobacco, clove, sage and red pepper on top of red and black currants and tart plums. Medium-plus body, solid tannic backbone but a fine edge and medium-plus acidity. Cool red currant and plum fruit is rounded out with pepper, sage, loam and leaves. Dose of vanilla cola and sweet coffee, too. A silky, rounded wine despite the strong structure. Aged one year in American and French oak (25% new). (88 points)

2012 Fabbioli Cellars Cabernet Franc Reserve - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Juicy, slightly jammy red fruit on the nose along with sweet roses and strawberry-rhubarb pie. Medium-bodied with lots of structure here and fresh acidity, giving this wine a lighter feel at 12.5% alcohol. Tart red and black currants play off of juicy black cherries, and I get a range of woodsy and earthy tones, along with clove and vanilla. Good concentration and length, this will improve in the cellar. Structured but tart and vibrant throughout. Aged 12 months in mostly new Hungarian oak. (87 points)

2014 Keswick Vineyards Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $50
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of black cherries, juicy blackberries, the fruit is ripe but tart, and accented with lovely tobacco, pine resin and clove. Full-bodied with some solid tannic grip, but the mouthfeel is velvety, backed up by such refreshing and vibrant acidity. Juicy black and red cherries glide across the palate, and I love these grilled bell pepper and mushroom notes. Balanced levels of vanilla and cedar. Long, seamless finish. This is such a solid Monticello Cabernet Franc! Matured 10 months in French and American oak. (88 points)

2013 Glen Manor Vineyards Hodder Hill - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $50
Saucy purple color. A really cool kick of hay, black walnut, soy and leather on top of the juicy black and red currants. Medium-to-full-bodied with a sturdy tannic structure, this is a densely concentrated wine but some mild acidity keeps it relatively lively. Deep plums, roasted figs, black cherries, the fruit is juicy but seriously concentrated. Complex elements of tobacco, sage, eucalyptus combine with hazelnut, cedar and vanilla, which are woven in expertly. Intriguing minerality pervades the wine. One of the most age-worthy wines in the bunch, this will do a whole lot more in the decanter or, preferably, after three or four years in the cellar. A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. (90 points)

2010 Granite Heights Vineyard Evening Serenade - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Fauquier County
SRP: $41
A kind of dull ruby color. Tart red fruits on the nose (raspberries, cranberries) with juicy black cherries and notes of tobacco, violets and mushroom. Medium-plus-bodied with medium acidity and a dusty/velvety tannic structure. Black cherries galore along with cranberry sauce and currant tea. I get a loam and tar elements that spices up the cedar and coffee flavors. Nice balance, presents itself well, but still enough concentration for a few years in the cellar. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc aged 15 months in American and French oak. (87 points)

2012 Naked Mountain Petit Verdot - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Blue Ridge Foothills
SRP: $36
Dense purple color. Concentrated aromas of blackberry and black currant, as air coaxes out some tar, graphite and roasted coffee. Surprisingly vibrant on the palate with a medium-to-full-bodied approach, fleshy tannins and crunchy acidity. Flavors of dark currants, blueberries and plum skin, the fruit is dense but maintains a tart edge. Smoky tar elements last onto the finish, and I get some earth and roasted coffee as well. Tightly-packed, this will develop in the cellar, but it has a vibrancy to it that makes it easy to sip now. Includes 11% Merlot and 11% Tannat. (86 points)

2013 North Gate Vineyard Meritage - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $26
Deep ruby/light purple color. Love the aromatics here, right out of the bottle, but they get even more complex with air: black cherries and dark, crunchy plums with mocha, charcoal and dark chocolate shavings. The palate shows medium tannins that provide a good backbone for the pleasant acidity. Black cherries and dark plums abound in this ripe but crunchy wine. Notes of cedar, smoke, dark chocolate, vanilla and black licorice are blended in well to the overall package. A blend of 60% Merlot, 22% Petit Verdot and 18% Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2013 Stone Tower Winery Hogback Mountain - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $69
Deep purple color. The nose is juicy, deep and lush with suave blueberry and blackberry topped with mocha, vanilla, toasted coconut and scorched earth. Full-bodied with sturdy tannins and moderating acidity, this is a mouth-filling but velvety wine. Saucy black and blue fruit, concentrated but smooth, laced with smoke, toasted nuts, coffee, violets and vanilla. Quite complex and deep, this needs time in the cellar to show its full potential. 69% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot, this is aged 18 months in new and used French and American oak. (89 points)

#VAWineChat - Granite Heights Vineyard

Big name Virginia players (Barboursville, Linden, Horton, Jefferson Vineyards, Michael Shaps) have been producing reliably solid wines for a long time. But the overall quality of Virginia wine has increased so drastically over the past decade, that you can call up kick-ass wines from all over the state. 

Granite Heights is one such producer that is new to me and delivered the goods. Located in Fauquier County in Virginia’s Northern Region, it’s the project of owners and partners Luke and Toni Kilyk. Luke got his bachelor’s in chemistry and began winemaking as a hobbyist in 2001, and transitioned in commercial winemaking in 2008. 

The couple’s 12-acre farm (planted to a high-density 2,000 vines per acre) is home to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Barbera, Chardonnay and Vermentino. The term “hand-crafted" is used thrown around way too much in the wine industry, but it sure seems to apply to Granite Heights. They pick, press and do most of the other work by themselves, and with the help of a few friends. “We do not want to watch someone else do the job, if we can do the job ourselves or with them,” the Kilyk’s say. 

In a recent iteration of Frank Morgan’s Virginia Wine Chat (#VAWineChat on Twitter), I tasted through four different offerings from Granite Heights, and found a lot to like.

2014 Granite Heights Vineyard Petit Manseng - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Fauquier County
$25

Light gold color. A floral spray note kicks off the nose, but then I get these honeyed white tea and peanut aromas. A creamy, waxy texture but the acidity springs this wine to life and keeps it lasting and fresh on the finish. Peaches, pineapple, drizzled with lime A bright floral presence, but a richness with these candle wax, honey, hints of peanut shell and white tea. An underlying vibrancy (like chalk, minerals). I love the chewiness of this wine mixed with that ever-present signature of brisk acidity. Off-dry style, but the acidity makes it work. (86 points)

N.V. Granite Heights Vineyard Rosé - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Fauquier County
$18
A very pale salmon color. Smells a bit like strawberry short cake topped with clover and cut grass – interesting. A sweet but fresh wine with flavors of white cherries, strawberry shortcake, pineapple juice.. some sweet herbs and white pepper notes. Slightly off-balanced with sweet but funky-spice elements. I really want to love this wine, but it's just a bit strange for my palate. An off-dry blend of Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Dornfelder and Petit Manseng. A blend of 2013 and 2015 vintages. (79 points)

2012 Granite Heights Vineyard humility - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Fauquier County
$34
Vibrant purple color . Dark, saucy fruit on the nose with plenty of clove, pepper and cedar. Vibrant acidity, moderately sturdy tannins, this medium-plus-bodied wine has a lovely and silky presence on the palate. Tart black/blue fruit, a dense but vibrant structure to the fruit. I get a lot of cedar, spiced coffee, anise and eucalyptus Bold but elegant - this really unwinds with air and has time to evolve in the cellar. They call it humility, but I would have a hard time being humble about this wine. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Aged 15 months in mostly American oak. (88 points)

2010 Granite Heights Vineyard Lomax Reserve - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Fauquier County
$34
Medium ruby color. Smoky nose with dark berry compote, leather and musk. Quite nicely structured with bright acidity and dusty tannins, the concentration and youthfulness of this wine is surprising and impressive. Plummy, tart berries, crunchy red fruits and luscious black cherry, there are a lot of different fruit elements going on here. I get some tobacco, pepper, vanilla and earthy notes, too. A bit young and tight but stays vibrant, this has plenty of time in the cellar to go. 41% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot and 9% Barbera, aged 20 months in French and American oak. (87 points)

Some of Virginia’s Finest: Michael Shaps

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

“Virginia wine sucks.”

I’ve heard the same tired remarks about Virginia wine since I first started exploring it a half-dozen years ago. Perhaps at one point in time, Virginia wine haters deserved the benefit of the doubt. Maybe they had a few crummy bottles or an unexciting trip to a winery that didn’t take the wine part of the operation all that seriously. Maybe they just didn’t know any better and, hey, the good stuff is really hard to find, right?

Maybe. But, these days, when someone fires off a declarative “Virginia doesn’t make good wine” comment, they are providing you with an indicator of willful ignorance. There is so much good, even great, Virginia wine that the naysayers have no excuse anymore.

Michael Shaps has heard from the “Virginia wine sucks” crowd for decades. “Back in ‘95, there was a lot more of it,” he said. These days? “For every one who makes that comment there are ten people who get it.”

I tasted three of Shaps’ wines during a virtual #VAWineChat tasting with Frank Morgan, Virginia wine guru and social media master. During the live stream earlier this month, I was joined by dozens of other folks who sampled the same wines and chatted with Shaps about his vino and the state of the Virginia wine industry.

If you want to sip some of the best wine in Virginia, bottles from Michael Shaps should definitely be on that tasting table. Shaps studied winemaking in Beaune, and worked for Jefferson Vineyards and King Family, and has 20 years of experience crafting impressive Virginia wine. He makes wine for some 20 clients at a custom crush facility as well. Shaps’ 2012 Tannat and his 2012 desert Petit Manseng “Raisin d’Etre” were among the 2015 Virginia Governor’s Cup winners — and I found both of them to be great examples of what Virginia vino can achieve.  

Petit Manseng is a grape Michael gets excited about when he talks about it. He calls this grape “bulletproof in the vineyard” for its ability to handle the heat and humidity of Virginia’s winegrowing climate. “It’s an ideal grape for our climate and our situation, but the challenge is managing the acidity,” Shaps said. Petit Manseng grapes can have tart and bracing acidity, but if you let the grapes hang on the vine for a long time, they can reach higher levels of ripeness that can help balance out the zip from the acid. This adds richness in the form of alcohol content as well, and the 2014 clocked in at 14.6% alcohol. And while Virginia Petit Manseng can be rich and honeyed, it maintains such freshness and is frequently marked with interesting spice and floral components. It’s a wine that can accompany fresh seafood (like Shaps’ dry style) or the richest deserts and cheeses (when made into unctuous late-harvest wines).

“It’s something unique that we do here that no one else can do, it’s been really turning some heads,” Shaps said during the tasting.  I turned my head to Virginia Petit Manseng a few years ago, and things have only gotten better since then.

Many producers who can get their hands on Petit Manseng allow it to hang on the vine for a long time. For his Raisin d’Etre wine, Shaps allows the grapes to ripen all the way to 28-30 brix. Then the grapes are harvested and brought into tobacco barns and dried, concentrating the sweetness even further. The result is one of the best and most unique sweet wines I’ve tasted out of Virginia. His dry version is Exhibit A in why Virginia Petit Manseng should be on your radar.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng Honah Lee Vineyard - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
A rich golden color. The aromas show a nice mix of brightness and richness, with lemon and tangerine peels, honeycomb and orange marmalade, along with hints of seashells and wildflowers. A full-bodied wine at 14.6% alcohol, bone dry, the mouthfeel is waxy and creamy but balanced out with some moderate acid. The tangerine, orange marmalade, apricot jam and cantaloupe fruit slides across the palate, leaving notes of orange creamsicle, nougat, candle wax, dried flowers and a slight note of crushed shells and chalk. A rich and broad wine but really attractive and distinct. Fermented in French oak (including some new). If you haven’t heard about Virginia Petit Manseng and are interested but wary, try this wine. It’s the cream of the crop and, for me, a thrilling wine. (91 pts.)

We then tasted the new release Cabernet Franc, a grape that has gotten lots of attention as something of a signature red grape in the state. Generally I think it works best went blended together with some Merlot and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, but Shaps’ 100% varietal Cab Franc is something to seek out. Shaps admits the oak is a little intense (the juice sees 50% new French oak for 18-24 months). But Shaps says he wants to make an ageworthy wine, and he feels oak really helps the wine hold up in the long run.

2013 Michael Shaps Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
Pale ruby color. Beautiful nose, really exuberant with its bright red cherries and currants, lots of tobacco, tomato leaf and mossy soil notes, hints of clove and violets. Medium-bodied, the acid has so much vibrancy, and the medium-light tannins have a dusty feel. All of this combines in a smooth but relatively structured wine that is so easy to drink right out of the bottle. Juicy red cherries, raspberries and strawberries, the fruit is ripe enough but showing a pleasantly crunchy aspect. Notes of tobacco, tomato bush, loamy soil and pot smoke. The 50% new oak can be a bit much, but it’s still a silky, smooth wine with refreshing, food-friendly appeal. It’s really woven together well, although it’s likely one to evolve quite a bit over two to four years. (88 pts.)

Many Meritage wines from Virginia frequently contain a lot (or even a majority) of Merlot. Merlot might not be easy in the sales aisle or the vineyard, but it does very well in Virginia. If people are still skeptical about seeing the word Merlot on a wine label, the grape does wonders when blended together with other Bordeaux varieties. And Shaps’ 2010 is a beauty.

2010 Michael Shaps Meritage - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
Medium ruby color. Juicy red and black plums on the nose, some raspberry jam, a vibrant and lively blend of violets, light roast coffee, cola and cinnamon. Medium-bodied, medium acidity offers freshness, velvety tannins provide enough structure. I get gushing black cherries, summer plums, fig paste, mixed in with notes of roasted chestnut, loamy soil, spiced coffee and dark chocolate. A generous wine, solid structure, plenty of complexity in here. I’d love to cellar this for three or four more years. 40% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petite Verdot and 12% Malbec, 13.7% alcohol. (89 pts.)

Best of Virginia Wine: Tasting the Governor's Cup Winners

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

If you don’t yet take Virginia wines seriously, step up to the tasting table and get to work. Well-established and up-and-coming wineries are producing all sorts of exciting stuff.

The winners of the 2015 Virginia Governor’s Cup are a good place to start. Since 1982, the Governor’s Cup wine competition has been highlighting the best selections from the commonwealth’s diverse array of wines. And as the top 12 wines of 2015 demonstrate, Virginia has so much to offer.    

One of the common threads in this year’s batch of winners is the preeminence of Merlot in the Meritage blends. When I first started tasting Virginia wines eight years ago or so, it seemed like Cabernet Franc had designs on becoming the red grape of the commonwealth. While Virginia Cabernet Franc can be very good (it certainly adds a lot of spice and savory qualities to many Meritage blends), I’m frequently impressed by how well Merlot performs in Virginia. I was recently chatting with Virginia Wine buff Frank Morgan about what grape variety is the most underrated performer in Virginia, and we agreed: Merlot.

Petit Verdot is also gaining respect, as demonstrated by two of the varietal wines in this batch. And I was excited to taste a delicious Tannat from renowned Virginia winery Michael Shaps and a Touriga from Cross Keys. Virginia is home to some stunning Chardonnay and other white wines, but the case of samples I received was dominated by dry reds.

If there’s one thing that gives me hesitation about a lot of Virginia wines, it’s an overreliance on new oak. Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate the effect of some new oak on a wine, especially a bold Bordeaux-style blend. But some the nuanced flavor profiles in these wines can be obscured a bit by the toasted oak elements.

That said, many of these Governor’s Cup winners display a uniquely Virginian appeal. And with more and more options from all across the state, there has never been a better time to explore Virginia wine.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2012 Catoctin Creek Winery Meritage - Virginia

SRP: $26

Deep ruby-light purple color. Lots of spice on the nose (pepper, bay leaf, tobacco, spearmint. Medium-strength tannic structure, a chewy-dusty feel to the palate but the wine gets silky with air. Black currant, red currant, tart wild cherries and hints of red apple peel mix with a dusty soil element to the wine, also some bright rose and violets. Cedar and cherry wood shavings blend with a solid dose of peppery spice. I like the complexity of non-fruit elements in this wine. 30% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petite Verdot, 20% Cabernet Franc. (86 points)

2012 North Gate Vineyard Meritage - Virginia, Northern Region, Loudoun County

SRP: $24

Light purple color. Nice tart fruit aromas (red and black plums, juicy black cherries), some coffee, dark chocolate, toasted oak and Brazil nuts. Tart and bright palate, impressive tang and punch from the tannins. Lovely tartness to the plum and cherry fruit, mixed in with sweet black licorice candy, Christmas tree and spicy oak. Stays fresh (13% alcohol) and never strays into goopy territory. Notes of clove, black pepper, spiced coffee add complexity. Food-friendly, nice spice to this wine. Finishes with smoky, toasted oak, a bit too much for my palate but it’s not overwhelming. 49% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petite Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc.  (87 points)

2010 Jefferson Vineyards Meritage - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello

SRP: $60

Deep ruby-red brick color. Rich and sexy aromatics: juicy dark fruit, sweet cinnamon and cola, rose potpourri, notes of spicy cedar and eucalyptus. Full-bodied, big but velvety tannins, medium acid helps a lot. The rich blackberry fruit mixes well with tart red plum skins and currants. The tanginess of the fruit complements the richer elements of cherry cola, cedar, espresso, roasted fig and eucalyptus. Rich, mouthfilling (14.7% alcohol), but showing nuance, complexity and elegance.  This gets even more expressive with air, so it could easily benefit from 3-5 years in the cellar. A great example of Virginia Merlot-based Meritage, this wine helps you triangulate your palate to Bordeaux blends from Virginia (I find this wine falls somewhere between the richly earthy Mendocino aesthetic and the juicy, eucalyptus-accented feel of Margaret River.) A blend of 45% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Petit Verdot. Aged 30 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2012 King Family Vineyards Meritage - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello

SRP: $31

Deep ruby-light purple color. Nose bursts with juicy red fruit (cherries, currants, plums), a good dose of spicy (clove, pepper) and sweet (coffee, dark chocolate) elements. Medium-bodied, the tannins are supportive but not too grippy, moderate acid for balance. Red cherries and plums abound, the fruit is juicy but shows a crisp edge. Notes of toasted nuts, vanilla, dark chocolate shavings, the spice and earth elements need some cellar time to come out but this wine has a lot going for it. 13.1% alcohol, a blend of 42% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 25% Petite Verdot and 6% Malbec. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (88 points)

2010 Narmada Winery Yash-Vir - Virginia, Northern Region, Rappahannock County

SRP: $28

Vibrant purple color. Deep, dark cherries and blackberries on the nose, violets and wet earth, coffee grounds, chewing tobacco. Medium-bodied, dusty tannins, refreshing notes from the acid. Bright approach with a crunchy red and black currant profile. A sense of smoke, coffee, earth and spices pervades the fruit. Notes of toasted nuts, spiced coffee and black olive add complexity. I’d love to re-taste this in a few more years. Interesting stuff for sure. 43% Merlot, 29% Petite Verdot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14% Malbec. (87 points)

The 2009 Clio from Muse won the Governor's
Cup, and rightfully so. It's a gorgeous red blend.

2009 Muse Vineyards Clio - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley

SRP: $65

Bold deep ruby color. Gorgeous nose of black cherries, cassis, plums, tangy yet sultry, a complex note of black pepper, chicory coffee, clove, hints of mushroom. Full-bodied, fine but firm tannins, I love how the acid sweeps in and cleans it all up. Waves of fruit, rich yet tart and crunchy, (blackberries, dark plums, blueberry, cassis), but the fruit is equally and perfectly matched with a complex web of coffee, vanilla, charcoal, mushroom, soy, pepper sauce, toasted oak. Long and full yet finishes fresh. I’d love to bury this for four or five years and see what comes out. A beautiful blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot), aged three years in French oak, 50% new, 14.8% alcohol. Naysayers about serious Virginia Bordeaux blends, please taste. (92 points)

2013 Cross Keys Vineyards Touriga Nacional - Virginia

SRP: $46

Bold purple color. Dark and rich nose with blackberry compote, blueberry skins, dark plums, a richly earthy note of loam, rocks and moss. Fine-edged tannins, moderate acid, 12.5% alcohol, a bright and zesty approach. Plenty of tangy dark fruit (plums, blackberries, blueberries), tart and crunchy all around with notes of green coffee, cracked pepper, charcoal smoke, cedar shavings and mocha. Bold flavors but tart and complex, an exciting Virginia interpretation of this classic Portuguese grape. (88 points)

2013 Delfosse Vineyards and Winery Petit Verdot - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello

SRP: $45

Vibrant ruby color. Nose: cracked pepper, bay leaf, loamy soil and roasted coffee overtop of blackberries and fresh blueberries. Medium+ bodied, grippy tannic structure, medium to low acid. Really well built with blackberries, blueberries and black currants, mashed together with graphite, coffee, charcoal smoke and black pepper. Some toasted cedar and fallen leaves as well. Structured but gets silky quite quickly in the glass, showing off more nuanced earth and floral elements. Time to spare for the cellar. (88 points)

2012 Vint Hill Craft Winery Petit Verdot - Virginia

SRP: $39

Clear, deep ruby color but heavy sediment. A lighter and more floral aromatic approach on the nose than the Delfosse, this is like dried roses tossed together with some currants and black cherries. Medium-bodied, freshness from the acid, the tannins are structured but fined down a bit, less compact than the Delfosse, actually surprisingly silky. More black and red cherry fruit, a floral potpourri element set against some woodsy, earthy, spice and vanilla flavors. Not as complex or age-worthy as the Delfosse, but quite delicious and definitely interesting. (87 points)

2012 Michael Shaps Tannat - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello
SRP: $35
Dark purple color. Deep, dark and dense on the nose: crunchy black currants, intense blackberries, roasted figs, black coffee, campfire smoke. Bold and concentrated on the palate with firm and drying tannins, yet some medium acid comes in and tames it a bit. The blackberry, deep blueberry, roasted fig and prune fruit is rich but maintains a tart, crunchy appeal. I get lots of loam, pencil lead, black coffee, iron and olive pit flavors, in addition to a good dose of toasted barrel (perhaps a bit too much). Decant or bury for a few years, this wine has the goods to improve for a decade easily. All Tannat, 14.6% alcohol, aged 18 months in 50% new oak. (90 points)

2012 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng Raisin d'Etre - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello

$25/375ml

Deep gold, orange peel colored. Smells rich and enticing, like orange marmalade, apricot jam, candied ginger, candle wax, clover honey. Full-bodied and rich on the palate, but the acid actually cuts through and keeps the wine from feeling heavy. The fruit is a mix of orange zest, apricot jam, white grape jelly and dried mango, mixed in with elements of candied ginger, honeycomb, sweet blossoms, daisies and candle wax. Interesting and complex flavors, I love the freshness in spite of the richness. A blend of 83% Petit Manseng and 17% Riesling, 12.4% residual sugar, this wine is made by partially drying the Petit Manseng grapes and fermenting them in French oak. (89 points)

2010 Rockbridge Vineyard V d'Or - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley

SRP: $20/375ml

Deep orange color. Deep but perfumed nose, with a rich mix of dried mango, orange peel, circus peanut and peach ring candies. Rich and creamy palate, medium acid keeps it from being cloying. Flavors of red apple peel, apricot jam, candied orange, mix in some honeysuckle, cut flower stems, white floral potpourri, a hint of quinine. Very rich but showing a lot of deliciousness and some freshness. 13% alcohol, 15% residual sugar, this is a blend of Riesling, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles, the grapes are put in a deep freeze before pressing and fermentation. (87 points)

Virginia vs. Other Wine Regions – A Blind Taste-Off

This year I’m planting my own vineyard in Virginia with the hopes of one day making my own chardonnay. The site is located on an historical mill house property in Virginia’s Central Region American Viticultural Area (AVA). It’s a sunny hillside composed of sand and clay that overlooks a beautiful creek and mill pond. This whole endeavor is nothing more than a hobby — I hope to make a miniscule amount of wine to drink with friends and family — but I mention this project to demonstrate my faith in Virginia’s terroir. Yup, I just used Virginia and terroir in the same sentence, and I’m not being sarcastic. What of it?

Virginia is one of the most diverse states in the country. It has beaches and mountains, cold streams full of trout and warm catfish-packed ponds, a vibrant death metal scene and some the most conservative evangelical institutions in the country. Virginia wines are no exception to this rule. There are dozens of fruit wines with cutesy labels and lots of cheap plonk sold in grocery stores, but Virginia winemakers are also making every conceivable style of chardonnay and some Bordeaux style blends that are capable of rivaling big California bottles — not to mention the successful experiments with lesser-known varities like petite manseng, viognier and tannat.

At least that’s what I’ve come to think since I started drinking Virginia wine five or six years ago. The idea behind this “Virginia vs. The World” tasting was to put these notions to the test. Hosted by the Washington Wine Academy, one of the nation’s premiere wine schools, the theme was quite simple: pit Virginia chardonnays and cabernet-based blends against similar, comparatively-priced wines from other regions all across the world. For chardonnays, we tried to stick to the $18-$35 price range, and $25-$55 for the red blends. To ensure the wine tasting was as objective as possible, the wines were all brown-bagged and tasted blind. We lumped the Virginia and world wines together into two flights, tasted through them, wrote our notes, scored them and finally unveiled the bottles.



Virginia is an incredibly diverse state. This map shows Virginia's different AVAs (American Viticultural Areas).

Several other oenophile friends, wine professionals and writers, many with extensive experience with Virginia vino, attended the event: David White (Terroirist); Frank Morgan (Drink What You Like); Christian G.E. Schiller (Schiller-Wine); Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead Wine) and others.

Well, let’s get down to the wines. (Note: Prices are estimates.)



Chardonnays…

2010 Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay Estate Grown - USA, California, Napa, Carneros ($20)
Corked. That moldy, TCA aura underlines everything else. The cork taint isn’t the worst I’ve seen, but it’s still ruinous. (FLAWED)

2010 Domaine Roger Luquet Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé ($20)
This wine smells underripe, like green apple peels, grapefruit rind, but there’s also a distinct grass and chive note that reminds me more of sauvignon blanc. The palate is light and tangy, lacking depth and complexity. Citrus rind, Sweet Tart candies and green onion linger on the finish. Not bad, but a bit weak. One of the few 2010 Mâcon chardonnays I haven’t gotten too excited about. (82 points)

2010 Ox-Eye Vineyards Chardonnay - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley ($20)
Sweet aromas of cotton candy, cateloupe, honeysuckle and just a hint of sea breeze, which I like. Plump and soft on the palate. The green melon fruit is mixed in with nougat, hazelnut and coconut. Lacking serious complexity, but a solid chardonnay nonetheless. (84 points)

2010 Ankida Ridge Chardonnay - USA, Virginia ($32)
On the nose: honeysuckle, green pears and a mix of bright floral and citrus peel notes. The palate is bold and creamy, but not overbearing. Some honeycomb and graham cracker flavors accent the green pear and buttered popcorn. A bit flat on the finish, but overall a solid chardonnay. A self-described “family-run micro vineyard” located at 1,800 feet, this chardonnay has piqued my interest in Ankida. (85 points)

2010 Linden Chardonnay Hardscrabble - USA, Virginia, Northern Region ($33)
This chardonnay shows a richer, more extracted nose of peanut shell, bruised yellow apple, some nougat and honeysuckle. Round on the palate but medium acid keeps it balanced. The flavors of yellow pear, whipped honey, peanut and pina coloda taste a tad sweet. Overall a nice wine, although I didn’t enjoy this vintage as much as I have other Hardscrabbles. The fruit comes from the Hardscrabble Vineyard, which sits on an eastern slope of the Blue Ridge in Fauquier County. At an elevation of about 1,300 feet, the vine age ranges from 16 to 25 years. (86 points)

2010 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay Karia - USA, California, Napa Valley ($30)
Aromas of white peach, pineapple and green melon. Medium-bodied on the palate with ripe pear and melon fruit, but the wine maintains a softer overall package. Creamy finish with notes of caramel and honeycomb, but not too oaky or thick. A sleeker styled wine that clocks in at 13.5% alcohol, this chardonnay is aged 8 months on the lees in 29% new French oak. Several tasters commented that this wine tasted "manipulated," and I see where they’re coming from, but I enjoyed its approach. (87 points)

2010 Domaine Des Moirots Christophe Denizot Montagny 1er Cru Le Vieux Chateau - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Montagny 1er Cru ($25)
Complex on the nose, offering a mix of orange blossom, honeysuckle, flinty minerals and a note of kiwi. Zestier than the other wines, with great acidic cut. Flavors of lemon curd, green apple and pear fruit, highlighted by subtle cream and nutty flavors. Long, mineral-laden finish. This was my favorite wine of the flight, and the group’s as well. Might be a little unfair to the other wines because 2010 white Burgundies, even ones like this that cost around $25, simply rock. (90 points)

Cabernet-Based Blends…

2006 Le Baron de Brane - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux ($20)
Aromas of sweet black cherries, Laffy Taffy candy and green pepper. The combination isn’t my favorite. Strangely thin on the palate, with medium acid and tannins. That black cherry fruit plays with earth and dusty flavors. Thin and a bit medicinal on the finish. My least favorite wine of the flight, which came as something of a surprise considering the appellation, although I’ve never been a big fan of 2006 Bordeaux. (80 points)

2008 Chateau O’Brien Padlock Red - USA, Virginia, Central Region ($24)
A strange mix of sweet and savory aromas: candied cherries, raspberry jam and a dead ringer for sweet Amish pickles. Seriously, it smells just like sweet pickle relish with spices. The palate is tangy and sweet, showing raspberry jam and, again, that sweet pickle aspect. Rhubarb and smoke linger onto the finish. Not a simple wine, but not all that well-rounded either. Serious points for originality. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petite verdot. (82 points)

2009 Château D’Aiguilhe - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Côtes de Castillon ($30)
Very ripe on the nose: sweet plums, purple Gushers candy, red licorice, notes of sweet incense. A fruit-forward wine to the core, with lots of toasty mocha accenting the candied plum and cherry fruit. Yummy, but not the most balanced wine. I guessed this as a Virginia red because of those sweet fruit notes. I was surprised to see this was Bordeaux, but it’s a modern-style from a really ripe vintage, so it makes sense. (85 points)

2008 Barboursville Vineyards Octagon - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello ($48)
Smells like cassis, black cherry jam, smoke and rhubarb. The palate shows tangy acid, bright tannins and creamy red and black fruit (currants, raspberries). Some nice toast and tobacco on the finish. Perhaps a bit too thin to be great, but a very nice Bordeaux-style blend for sure. A blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. (86 points)

2007 Boxwood Winery Topiary - USA, Virginia ($25)
Aromas of smoke, cassis, dirt, leather and a hint of pickle. The palate shows soft tannins and creamy currant and blackberry fruit. Raspberry jam mixes with toasted oak. Very ripe and forward with a hint of tobacco on the finish. The group liked this far less than I did. (86 points)

2008 Dry Creek Vineyard Meritage - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley ($25)
Deep, alluring aromas of fig, loam and earth. Medium-grain tannins, medium acid, this wine shows delicious fig paste and cassis flavors, backed up by herbs, green pepper and dusty earth. Fruity, but quite complex. A blend of 33% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 17% cabernet franc, 14% malbec and 6% petit verdot. (88 points)

2008 RdV Vineyards Rendezvous - USA, Virginia, Northern Region, Fauquier County ($55)
And the winner is RdV’s Rendezvous, a blend of 35% merlot, 32% cabernet sauvignon, 21% cabernet franc and 12% petit verdot. Dense aromatics, with some air it opened up to show blackberry, chocolate-covered cherries, sweet roses and toasted oak. The palate displays medium acid and delicious flavors of cranberry sauce and blackberry jam. Dry, firm tannins provide structure, as the waves of secondary flavors come in: chestnut, pepper, mocha and a hint of olive. Impressive depth, this wine will most definitely get better with three-to-five years in the cellar. Congrats RdV! (89 points)