I’m focusing on California and Oregon, from two producers I’ve known and respected for a while, to a new (to me) producer from a well-known region. In the spirit of giving and thankfulness, I’ve chosen producers I think make a solid effort toward environmental stewardship, and delicious wines.
These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.
Halter Ranch
I have such fond memories of visiting Paso Robles. The place is beautiful, the people welcoming, and the wines – it’s just an embarrassment of riches. The diversity of grapes is impressive – whether the Bordeaux classics, or Italian varieties blended together in all shapes and sizes, to Spanish grapes that fit various nooks and crannies in the Paso terroir. Lots of little gems pop up if you go looking. There’s a real, true-blue feel to a lot of the winemakers, and it seems evident in a lot of wines. They’re not showy for the sake of it, they’re clear expressions of intent, style, and place. And whatever style you’re into, I bet you can find a cool expression somewhere in the larger Paso Robles region.
Take this new-to-me producer, Halter Ranch. I thought I had a pretty good understanding of a lot of the producers here, but I somehow missed this one. I’m glad that has been rectified. Halter Ranch tends to 200 acres of organic vineyards, walnuts, and olives. Sheep graze (and fertilize) the vineyard in classic fashion. And proprietor Hansjörg Wyss and winemaker Kevin Sass make at least 15 different expressions or blends from 20 different varieties of west-side Paso fruit. Looking at their lineup, there’s a lot piques my interest. These wines offer an enticing look at what these folks are doing.
2022 Halter Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $43
Light copper color. A beautiful nose of yellow apples, white peach, orange peels, with nuances of sea salt, crunchy limestone, white tea – deep but it has this airy, breezy complexity, too. The palate is crisp and bright on a medium-bodied frame with some lovely depth of texture. The flavors of white peach, lemon curd, and green apples play well off tones of ocean spray, floral perfume, some honey butter, and white tea complexities. I’m a big fan of Grenache Blanc for its bright yet expressive appeal, and this is a lovely take. Includes a bit of Picpoul and Viognier. (92 points)
2020 Halter Ranch Sparkling Picpoul Blanc Libelle - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $85
Bright lemon color with fine bubbles. The aromatic pop is so bright and floral, but shows layered depth, with lots of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust, with pie crust, over kiwi and green apples. The palate shows light body but plenty of creamy depth, and vibrant acidity, framing up the lemon, papaya, and green apple fruit. I love the racy, taut vibes, the minerals and chalk dust. The complexity is really delightful, and though it maintains this brisk appeal, there are a lot of layered, deeper elements to parse through. That flinty mineral element on the finish – lovely. A great idea for the holidays or in a blind tasting – I’d enjoy hearing the guesses from wine nerd friends. Picpoul made in the Champagne method. (92 points)
2020 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. An expressive nose of raspberries and cranberry relish, with juicy black cherries, and nuances of violets, clove, warm clay, black pepper, and cedar and coffee grounds. Full-bodied but fresh and vibrant with a silky, pleasantly plush mouthfeel. Concentrated but clear fruit (raspberries, plums, cranberry relish, tart blueberries), and the fruit is mixed well with elements of spiced black tea, coffee grounds, roasted nuts, hints of cedar. Finishes with stony minerals and earth. A super cool blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tannat. Paso’s got the goods! (92 points)
2020 Halter Ranch Ancestor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
Deep purple color. A rich nose of blackberry, blueberry, tangy black cherries, tossed with spicy tobacco, earthy-sage tones, black pepper, and deeper elements of anise and mocha. Deep but vibrant, serious grip on the tannins but things are ironed out and seamed together nicely. A core of tart black currant and blueberries starts things off, and the non-fruit elements shine (black pepper, all sorts of soil and rocks, mineral/graphite accents, hints of barbecue sauce). A lot to parse through, this is focused and deep young but will age wonderfully, and those savory complexities will really pop. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 20% Malbec. (94 points)
Troon Vineyard
Anyone who has read my wine writing over the past decade has likely heard about Troon, located in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. This producer casts a wide net in terms of varieties and styles, with a serious commitment to the land. Dick Troon first planted vines out here in 1972, and their unique terroir along the Kubli Bench provides a beautiful canvas for their wide variety of bottlings. They’re regenerative organic certified, practice biodynamic farming and winemaking, along with carbon sequestration efforts. And their wines are consistently awesome, and somehow not that expensive.
I’m focusing on their Druid’s Red and White blends, which I think would be a great introduction into this producer’s approach and style. Like the seasons, the blends are different each year. They’re so food-friendly and crowd-pleasing, so they’d be a good call for holiday festivities.
2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. A tropical, floral bouquet with pineapple, lemon curd, kiwi, and papaya, topped in chalk dusty, crunchy sea salt and river rocks, with honey and almond skin. The palate has a smooth texture and crisp acidity with green and yellow pears and apples, along with kiwi, mixed with orange blossom, dandelion, some sliced cucumber, and sea salt. There’s a focused mineral presence underneath as well. This is so much fun. This vintage is a blend of Vermentino, Marsanne, Lagniappe, and other grapes. (90 points)
2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. The aromas show a tangy compote of plums, raspberries, and tangy blueberries, along with violets, potting soil, some light roast coffee, and all sorts of herbs and spices. The palate is super zesty and bright, with tangy wild raspberries and strawberries, saucy plums, cranberry jam. I enjoy the clay and earth tones, with violets and herbal tea. So fun and juicy, crushable yet complex. A great combination. An exciting kitchen sink blend of grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Tannat, Negrette, and others. (90 points)
Gamble
Maybe I’m biased because my parents are, technically speaking, mill keepers. In the rural foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, they’ve rejuvenated an historic mill property from neglect and overgrowth over the past 15 years. That’s where I planted a failed vineyard, and spent countless days fishing, working the property, bird-watching, enjoying nature and family.
I’m always a supporter in wineries that take part in various charitable or actionable work on behalf of different conservation goals. And this brand is a supporter of the National Parks Conservation Association and a partner of one Napa Valley’s Bale Grist Mill State Park. This wine is delicious, reasonably-priced, and one worth sharing or gifting.
Gamble’s higher-end Napa Cabs are real gems. I’ve been a fan of them for many years, and they’re the type of Napa Cabernet that is delicious upon first taste and keeps rolling out the nuance and complexity over the course of hours or days. If you’re gifting a Napa Cab lover (or just buying for yourself), I’d go for two – one for this season, and one to bury and forget about for five to eight years.
Non-Vintage Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California
SRP: $26
Light purple color. A warm and inviting nose of roasted figs, tangy red currants, sweet black cherries, along with scents of coffee, toffee, smoky earth, and chewing tobacco. The palate is ripe and plush but shows good depth and texture, with chewy tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy plums, juicy raspberries, and spiced cranberry relish. Notes of coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, and some cool earthy, tobacco, and sage tones. A crowd-pleasing, fun, but balanced Cab that’s a blend of vintages and Napa sites. (90 points)
2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Anyone who has read my wine writing over the past decade has likely heard about Troon, located in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. This producer casts a wide net in terms of varieties and styles, with a serious commitment to the land. Dick Troon first planted vines out here in 1972, and their unique terroir along the Kubli Bench provides a beautiful canvas for their wide variety of bottlings. They’re regenerative organic certified, practice biodynamic farming and winemaking, along with carbon sequestration efforts. And their wines are consistently awesome, and somehow not that expensive.
I’m focusing on their Druid’s Red and White blends, which I think would be a great introduction into this producer’s approach and style. Like the seasons, the blends are different each year. They’re so food-friendly and crowd-pleasing, so they’d be a good call for holiday festivities.
2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. A tropical, floral bouquet with pineapple, lemon curd, kiwi, and papaya, topped in chalk dusty, crunchy sea salt and river rocks, with honey and almond skin. The palate has a smooth texture and crisp acidity with green and yellow pears and apples, along with kiwi, mixed with orange blossom, dandelion, some sliced cucumber, and sea salt. There’s a focused mineral presence underneath as well. This is so much fun. This vintage is a blend of Vermentino, Marsanne, Lagniappe, and other grapes. (90 points)
2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
Vibrant purple color. The aromas show a tangy compote of plums, raspberries, and tangy blueberries, along with violets, potting soil, some light roast coffee, and all sorts of herbs and spices. The palate is super zesty and bright, with tangy wild raspberries and strawberries, saucy plums, cranberry jam. I enjoy the clay and earth tones, with violets and herbal tea. So fun and juicy, crushable yet complex. A great combination. An exciting kitchen sink blend of grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Tannat, Negrette, and others. (90 points)
Gamble
Maybe I’m biased because my parents are, technically speaking, mill keepers. In the rural foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, they’ve rejuvenated an historic mill property from neglect and overgrowth over the past 15 years. That’s where I planted a failed vineyard, and spent countless days fishing, working the property, bird-watching, enjoying nature and family.
I’m always a supporter in wineries that take part in various charitable or actionable work on behalf of different conservation goals. And this brand is a supporter of the National Parks Conservation Association and a partner of one Napa Valley’s Bale Grist Mill State Park. This wine is delicious, reasonably-priced, and one worth sharing or gifting.
Gamble’s higher-end Napa Cabs are real gems. I’ve been a fan of them for many years, and they’re the type of Napa Cabernet that is delicious upon first taste and keeps rolling out the nuance and complexity over the course of hours or days. If you’re gifting a Napa Cab lover (or just buying for yourself), I’d go for two – one for this season, and one to bury and forget about for five to eight years.
Non-Vintage Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California
Light purple color. A warm and inviting nose of roasted figs, tangy red currants, sweet black cherries, along with scents of coffee, toffee, smoky earth, and chewing tobacco. The palate is ripe and plush but shows good depth and texture, with chewy tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy plums, juicy raspberries, and spiced cranberry relish. Notes of coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, and some cool earthy, tobacco, and sage tones. A crowd-pleasing, fun, but balanced Cab that’s a blend of vintages and Napa sites. (90 points)
2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Rich purple color. Aromas of warm currant and fig compote, with tangy black cherries, vibrant and deep fruit, mixed with complex tones of peppered steak, dried violets, tobacco, and a host of rocky, mineral, smoky earth, and charcoal vibes to parse through. Suave, juicy, well-structured tannins, the palate is kept aloft by vibrant acidity, and I get flavors of black currants, roasted fig, and blackberries. The complexities of roasted red pepper, sage, grilled steak, and dried flowers offer a lot of deliciousness and intrigue. This has a long life ahead, and I really look forward to where these savory tones go, and to see this wine resolve into a beauty. Drink now with a good decant or let it sit for five or eight years. Includes 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, and 3% Malbec aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months. (94 points)
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